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ie - VOLUME 102 (WHOLE VOLUME)

THE WEST | INDIES

co Tee
ANTONIO VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

_ TRANSLATED BY
- GHARLES UPSON CLARK

ITY OF WASHINGTON
3Y THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
» SEPTEMBER 1,1942

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS

VOLUME 102 (WHOLE VOLUME)

COMPENDIUM AND DESCRIPTION OF
PRES WEST ANDES

BY
ANTONIO VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

TRANSLATED BY
CHARLES UPSON CLARK

VF SOONS
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(PUBLICATION 3646)

CITY OF WASHINGTON
PUBLISHED BY THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
SEPTEMBER 1, 1942

The Lord Baltimore Press

BALTIMORE, MD., U. 8. A.

INTRODUCTION

In 1929 the Smithsonian Institution received from its Regent, Gen.
-Charles G. Dawes, a fund for research in European archives, in the
hope of finding documents which should throw more light on the
early American civilizations, especially that of the Mayas. I was sent
abroad on this quest in October, and remained in Europe till October
1931, filling with my notes and excerpts 12 large notebooks now at
the disposition of scholars in the Smithsonian, and sending long
monthly reports describing my finds. These reports are ready to be
published when funds are available.

Most of my time was spent in Spain and Portugal; and in the
Seville Archives of the Indies, thanks to a hint of Don Manuel Serrano
y Sanz, I came across the oldest known document of any length in
Maya—a village account book of San Juan de Amatitlan (Guatemala )
for the years 1559-1562; the record of the first year is in a Pocomam
dialect of Maya called Achi or Aché; the other three constitute our
earliest documents in Pipil. A transcript of this document is at the
Smithsonian Institution. But before going to Spain I visited Rome,
recalling that three of our finest Aztec MS came to light there;
I started in with the inventory of the Barberini collection in the Vati-
can, and came at once upon a beautifully illustrated Aztec herbal of
1552 (Barb. Lat. 241), which has now been published in facsimile
by the Johns Hopkins Press, “The Badianus MS,” and the Maya
Society, and is to be published in Mexico City by Federico Gomez de
Orozco and Demetrio S. Garcia, with a Spanish commentary.

Next to this MS under “Indies” in the inventory came, as ‘““Anony-
mous,” Barb. Lat. 3584; the compiler of the inventory remarked that
the name of the author did not appear, but that it would be easy to
identify it, since part of it was printed. The MS, beautifully bound
in red morocco with the Barberini bees in the corners, consists of a
First Part of 80 printed pages, two columns, 305 by 214 cm., plus
79 MS folios; after a blank sheet, a Second Part with 32 similar
printed pages, and 194 MS folios. It proved to be a detailed itinerary
of Spanish America, written in 1628 or 1629; and since a chapter in
the printed sheets dealt with the Quichua and Aymara languages, and
Prof. P. Rivet, the distinguished Paris anthropologist, had asked me
to send him a transcript of all early documents dealing with those
languages, I copied the chapter and sent it to him before leaving for

ili

1V INTRODUCTION

Spain. But his best efforts failed to identify the author; from my
scanty notes, Dr. Ernst Schafer, the learned historian of the Council
of the Indies, hazarded the guess that I might have unearthed the
famous lost compilation made by Leon Pinelo about that time for the
Council; and both urged me to make a further study of the MS.
My commission having been renewed for a second year, I returned
to Rome and transcribed from the MS all the data I could find casting
light on the author’s career and personality ; I mailed these to various
scholars, and was soon rewarded by Dr. Schafer’s positive identifica-
tion of him as the Carmelite missionary Fray Antonio Vazquez de
Espinosa.

In 1930, just three centuries after his death, all that we knew of
Fray Antonio was comprised in some references made by Leon Pinelo,
and the scanty data on which is based the following biographical sketch
in the great Espasa Spanish-American “Enciclopedia Universal
Ilustrada Europeo-Americana” (1929), vol. 67, p. 377:

Barefoot Carmelite friar and Spanish author, born in Jerez de la Frontera
in the last third of the 16th century, and died in Seville in 1630. He embraced
the ecclesiastical career and applied himself to study with great success, becoming
a distinguished theologian. In the exercise of his sacred charge he resided in
Jerez, but in his desire to make greater sacrifices for the saving of souls and
the spreading of the Faith he went over to America and in traveling through
the Kingdoms of Peru and Mexico, became known as one of the most fervent
missionaries in the New World. Returning to Spain about 1622, he resided
for some time in Malaga, Madrid, Seville, and other places. He had been
Censor of the Holy Office, and wrote the following works: Confesionario
general, luz y guia del cielo y método para poderse confesar (General Con-
fessional, Light and Guide to Heaven, and Rules for proper Confessing) ; Viaje
y navegacion del afio de 1622 que hizo la flota de Nueva Espafia y Honduras
(Malaga, 1623) (Voyage and Route of the New Spain and Honduras Fleet
in 1622) ; Sumario de indulgencias (Madrid, 1623) (Summary of Indulgences) ;
Circumstancias para los tratos y contratos de las Indias del Peri y Nueva
Espana (Malaga, 1624) (Data for Commercial Contracts with Peru and New
Spain, in the Indies) ; and Indiae descriptionem (Description of the Indies).

This last is our present work, and so little known to the compiler
of this sketch that he cites it with a Latin title.

We did however know enough about Fray Antonio’s magnum opus
to realize that it must have been one of the leading works of his day.
Leon Pinelo in his “Bibliotheca,” the first great bibliography of
Americana, writes of his contemporary, Vazquez de Espinosa: ‘“De-
scription of the Indies. It is an extensive work giving many details,
and the most exhaustive produced up to the present time, and almost
entirely based on personal inspection. He is endeavoring to print it.”
Professor Rivet calls attention to Leén Pinelo’s later testimony in

INTRODUCTION Vv

his “Libro del Chocolate,” {. gtv: “Fray Antonio Vazquez de Espi-
nosa, friar of the Carmelite Order, well versed and proficient in all
matters pertaining to the Indies through having lived many years in
Peru and New Spain, from which he brought back many documents,
maps and reports to this capital, which were useful in important
negotiations, and he had begun printing the ‘Description of the Indies’
mentioned in my ‘Biblioteca,’ when he died, his death depriving us
of what would have been the most valuable work available on the
subject.”

So the “Description” vanished ; but some sets of the sheets already
printed must have got into circulation, for in 1738 the reprint of
Leon Pinelo’s “Bibliotheca” lists among anonymous works, in volume
III, col. 1408-9: “Compendio, y Descripcion de las Indias Occiden-
tales: we have only seen two books: I, of the origin of the Indians,
and whence came their rites and customs; and the routes followed to
them by the fleets and galleons and their return voyage.” I found
also in a letter of the Jesuit scholar Joaquin Camaiio to his colleague,
the encyclopedist Lorenzo Hervas y Panduro, dated May 1, 1783,
and in the MS Vat. Lat: 9802, a reference to the Afiadidor (Reviser )
of Fray Gregorio Garcia as quoting in book 3, chapter 8, 1, from the
author of the “Compendio, etc.” with regard to circumcision among
the Guaicurt Indians (our paragraph 1802). I found also in the
British Museum another uncataloged and unpublished work by Vaz-
quez, on the defences of Peru—frequently mentioned in this “‘Com-
pendio’’—and dated 1629. His earlier pamphlet on the route of the
treasure fleet is also to be seen in the British Museum (Department
of Printed Books 1324 K6), together with a similar memorial from
Leon Pinelo. Vazquez here refutes indignantly the charge that a friar
was not competent to deal with such practical matters, and says that
throughout his life he has pursued the interests of the King of Spain
as well as the King of Heaven. That this is true, and that Vazquez
was accustomed to have his recommendations considered with respect,
is indicated by many references scattered through our work. In our
paragraph 1422 he appeals directly to the Council of the Indies to
follow his recommendations. He urges the creation of posts of Bishop
for Florida (323), for Cuenca or Loja in Ecuador (1140), Chacha-
poyas (1154, 1188), Huanuco (1364 f.), and Arica (1390, 1410,
1416, 1422). Guatemala should become an Archbishopric, and
Panama, now under the Archbishop of Peru, should be attached to
it (634). A University should be established in Guatemala City (610)
and another in La Plata (Sucre; 1710). Cartagena should become
the seat of an Audiencia (Circuit Court, the chief judicial and ad-

vi INTRODUCTION

ministrative authority) (923), and Buenos Ayres another (1828).
Juan de Lezama should receive aid from His Majesty for the defense
of Guiana, threatened by Walter Raleigh, of whose expeditions and
defeats he gives graphic accounts (157, 159; 135 ff., 141, 156 f.).
Capt. Carrasco should be sent soldiers to subjugate the Cumanagoto
Indians, especially as he is opposed by the Governors of Cumana and
Caracas (250). A subvention should be given someone to subdue
Honduras (710). The Corregidor of Cuenca should be directed by
the Council to pacify the Jibaros Indians (1129) ; in 1787 ff., similar
recommendations are made for Tucuman. Santo Domingo should
have a naval force for its protection (113), and Jamaica, a garri-
son (336). The Arica fort should have more artillery (1415), and
Valdivia be made a fortified city (1982); reference to the index
will show his intense interest in fortifications to keep off the Dutch and
English heretics. Vazquez was also keenly interested in the economic
side of Spanish dominion and gives us a wealth of data about prices
and commerce (see index). He even recommends that the King send
slaves for the mines to Tegucigalpa (704) and Bogota (945, 951),
and that the miners receive further aid by a devaluation of the silver
dollar (1675), as urged in his own memorial printed in 1623.

But Vazquez’ prime purpose, as he remarks in 1612, is “‘the descrip-
tion of the provinces,” with “a bit of everything for the reader’s
entertainment” (96), and an occasional “story for dessert’ (1123).
And through the dates he gives, we can follow in part the journeyings
on which his keen observations are based ; but it is impossible to outline
them in detail. His descriptions of Tucuman and Paraguay, e.g., are
obviously those of an eyewitness, but there is no personal reference ;
neither is there in Chile, though he remarks (1953) that he spent the
best part of his life there. The earliest year mentioned is 1612, when -
he was in Mexico City (434). In 1613 he visited Leon, Nicaragua,
“for the first time” (739) and was at Amapala on Trinity Sun-
day (665). He mentions being in San Antonio de Zaruma, Ecuador,
in 1614 (1132). Ill in 1615, he took the baths at Cajamarca (1183),
and became Chaplain Major of the abortive expedition gathered at
Chachapoyas for the conversion of the Motilones Indians (1191) ;
his preparations cost him over 4,000 pesos, and all for nothing,
thanks to the Devil’s efficient solicitude for his poor savage devotees.
In 1616 he visited Huanuco (1363) and Chavin, near Huailas (1372),
inspected the Huancavelica mines (1471) and was awe-struck by the
Pucara (1474). The dates he mentions in 1617-1619 are all in Peru—
in 1617, at Chincha (1343) ; lost in the desert south of Pisco (1359) ;
near Arequipa (1387); and on Ash Wednesday, 4 leagues from

INTRODUCTION vil

Aucara. On the day of the Presentation, 1618, he said Mass near
Arequipa (1393), and he was at Arequipa at the end of the year
(1390) ; he was in Arica (1396) and inspected Indian villages near
Arica (1416), burning one where the inhabitants were too idolatrous.
He spent Lent of 1619 in Lima (1157, 1405). Then he went north
again, and mentions being in Guatemala City in 1620 (602) and

Ko2ten (O14) able. boasts/1(43) of having Iu) 2 .xseen ohio. } ithe
greater part of . . . . New Spain, Honduras, and Nicaragua, and all
the Kingdom of Peru... .also... . the Indian tribes.” Constant

references show his Andalusian origin, as well as his knowledge of
other parts of Spain. “The large river issuing from the great Lake
of Chucuito is as broad as the Guadalquivir at Cordova” (1620) ;
the Rio de Vilcas at Uramarca is as wide as the Genil at Ecija (1478) ;
the Rio de Tucay is the size of the Genil at Ecija or the Jarama
at the Aranjuez highway (1526). Potosi covers more ground
than Seville (1661). In 760 he refers to the volcano of Ternate as
one of those he had seen.

Vazquez does not consider himself a historian; he refers to “the
histories” for further details (305, 889), the “historians of the Indies”
(1182), the “ancient histories” of Pizarro’s conquest of Peru (889).
He is well versed in these histories, and his frequent quotations and
references enable us to reconstruct much of his schooling and his
special reading for his task. He knew his Bible thoroughly and speaks
of Hebrew as if he had some slight acquaintance with it; but his one
example of Greek derivation (20) is wrong. Of the ancients he refers
to Plato (30), Pliny (29, 1464, 1469 f.), and Seneca (30), Jerome
(66), and Zosimus (67) ; of his predecessors on the New World, he
utilizes Solorzano (24, 98, 289, 324, 424, 898), Herrera (404, 431,
605, 737), Acosta (57, 422, 1467, 1510, 1518), the Inca Garcilaso
(57, 1120, 1363, 1490, 1510, 1518, 1553, 1595), and Gomara (98,
102 f., 397 f., 404 f., 409, 605 ; he generally writes the name Gomora ;
737 and 741 f. are good examples of his method of supplementing
his sources by personal observation). He knew the “Bibliotheca” of
Leon Pinelo (1363). All in all, he was admirably qualified for his
theme through his familiarity with the great previous descriptions
of America and the 10 years he himself had spent between Mexico
City and Chiloé ; and in spite of his disclaimer, he makes considerable
contributions to Spanish-American history, the most notable being
the long account given him by Capt. Altamirano of the Ursua-Aguirre
expedition down the Marafon in 1559 (1197 ff.) and the description
of the Arequipa earthquake of 1600 which he got from Pedro de
Vivar, a Guardsman who was caught in it. He does not mention his

Vili INTRODUCTION

sources for the detailed and apparently accurate descriptions of the
mouths of the Orinoco (188 ff.; cf. 208) and the Amazon (213 ff.),
though he does say in 223 that the latter is confirmed by Capt. Roque
de Chaves Osorio. Vazquez had a decided scientific and practical
bent, as is shown by his elaborate descriptions of mining processes
(see index) and of the causes of volcanic eruptions, and particularly
in the care he lavishes on accounts of animals and plants (especially
medicinal) in these new countries ; he provides us with the first known
statement of the curative properties of quinine (1714 ff.; the book
was written in 1628, and corrected in 1629; Vazquez received his
permission to print November 12, 1629) and the earliest descriptions
of numerous trees and fruits, generally full enough to be recognizable.

As regards his style, Vazquez cannot be absolved of the charge of
diffuseness, in spite of valiant and frequently mentioned efforts to
abridge on his part; the MS is full of words, phrases, and occasionally
whole paragraphs crossed out; but as these several times contain
valuable information, they are included (within square brackets) in
the translation ; cf., e.g., his criticism of the Corregidor of the Vitor
Valley in 1392. Two features of his style exercise the translator:
inversion and the use of two synonyms (we may be thankful he didn’t
follow Ciceronian rhetoric and use three). The inversion may occa-
sionally be avoided by a simple reversal, but must generally be followed
because of modifiers of the inverted subject ; but one has to keep the
rhetorical doublets, like (in 888) traders and merchants, ships and
frigates, made and built, woods and groves, much as one hates the
waste involved. Vazquez seems to avoid the word “pero” (but),
using “aunque” (although) in its stead, or a simple “y”’ (and).
He has a rich Spanish-American vocabulary ; I have tabulated over
200 words he uses which are not in the great Spanish Academy dic-
tionary of the language either at all or in the sense here found. The
great majority are of animals and plants, but there are several which
were evidently in current Andalusian use—agalgado (990, 1339),
anchoveta (1294), arena azul (310), armado (1729, 1752), barbasco
(284), barbudo (1024), cabeza (mining term; 1654), cloquilla,
(1116), cobo (1452), compuesto (1442), conaturalizado (1470),
confianza (2048), desbarrumbadero (1613 f.), desocado (315),
estruja (1360), filipote (142), goza (1722), Caja de Granos (1451),
habada (40, 487), hogazuela (1367), jugoso (1979), mujeres de
manto (1795), melinje (675, 1356), mingado (1451, 1636), mojo-
neria (1441, 1707), mollar (1387), palmicha (1000), officios de
pluma (2022), quebrantatinaja (662), ronchas (326), sanefa (1511,
1514), sinodo (salary; 1450, 1888), sopada (1815), tejita (515),

INTRODUCTION 1x

vibora (plant; 1792), and zarzuela (teal; 1020). I hope to publish
this list in full elsewhere.

It was originally hoped to publish the Spanish text opposite the
translation, and I deeply regret that this plan had to be abandoned.
In the first draft of the translation and index, which assumed the
presence of the Spanish text opposite, I kept the original spelling of
proper names; but with the decision to omit the Spanish came a re-
quest to put all proper names in their modern form, which required
hundreds of corrections in the text and the recopying of the index.
Then my own practice in spelling, punctuation, word division, and word
usage, had to be altered to conform with the prescriptions followed in
this series; and I fear that numerous inconsistencies remain. I have
tried to reproduce in the translation as much as I could of the classical
Spanish style of the old Carmelite, without doing violence to English
idiom. I have kept the Spanish titles of Corregidor and Alcalde
Mayor (see index) but have translated Adelantado as Commander ;
indeed, Ovando is called both Adelantado and Comendador in the
same paragraph (see index). I translate Audiencia by Circuit Court
rather than Supreme Court; it was not a Supreme Court, cases being
appealed, e.g., from the Audiencia of Guatemala to that of Mexico
City and from there to Spain or Rome; and the Justices did actually
go on circuit ; of course an Audiencia was like our Great and General
Court of Massachusetts Bay—the chief governmental and judicial
authority for its territory, whose boundaries in every case Vazquez
is very precise in giving. While I have in general translated in full
all words and passages deleted in the MS, enclosing them within
square brackets, I have often omitted deleted y (and or but), and
words which were obvious errors immediately corrected. Spanish
terms defining measure, coinage, etc.—vara, league, real, peso, and the
like—are explained in the index, which serves as a glossary and a
concise explanatory commentary.

There are indications that the MS had not received its final revision.
Paragraphs 359-360 repeat 345-347, and the chapter on Trujillo and
Safia is duplicated (1167 ff.) ; 1427 ff. show confusion; 1679 is left
unfinished. 362 has a blank for the number of cannon in the fort;
372, for the surname of Brother Aparicio; 1352-1353, for a date
and name; 1427, for the latitude of Guamanga ; 1590, for the date of
Inca Garcilaso’s death. In 1137 he omits the name of the founder ;
in 1193 he evidently could not remember the name of a certain fruit ;
in 1274 he admits forgetting the names of certain religious bene-
factors, recorded however in the Book of Life.

x INTRODUCTION

Before leaving this account of the translation, | must not fail to
acknowledge with gratitude the devoted assistance of my secretaries—
Mrs. Beatrice Swire, of Chelwood Gate, Sussex; Frl. Margarethe
Schiinhoff, of Hanover; Mme. Marguerite Berriot, of Paris; Mme.
Marjorie de Aguirre, of Madrid; and Miss Clara Reisner, of New
York.

We have seen that Leon Pinelo praised our MS as the most valu-
able contribution yet made to the literature on the Indies. Even with
a delay of 300 years in its publication, it is not to be considered for
a moment as merely a historical curiosity. Of course its prime interest
is geographical ; it is a descriptive itinerary of Spanish America; and
Vazquez’ painstaking account, a veritable Baedeker, will be authori-
tative in the whole field of historical geography. But it is full of
original documents. Whole chapters are taken up by the vivid stories
of the ill-fated Amazon expedition of Gen. Pedro de Ursua and the
subsequent career of the freebooter Lope de Aguirre (1198 ff.), the
awe-inspiring eruption of the Ubinas volcano near Arequipa in 1600
(1397 ff.), and the destructive Potosi flood of 1626 (1668 ff.).
Vazquez gives us the text of several official letters (275, 414, 416,
557); and he takes pleasure in recounting the life stories of various
doughty pioneers, like Hernando de Cifontes (1611 f.), in order, as
he says after his praise of early Venezuelan explorers, that the memory
of such men should not perish but that they might receive the reward
of their labors (269). Botanists will revel in the detailed descriptions
of trees and other plants, with his valuable accounts of their use in
Indian medicine; specially noteworthy are his surprise when con-
fronted by the milk tree (283) and his tribute to the efficacy of qui-
nine (1717) and the universal usefulness of the coconut palm in the
East Indies (779) ; the Philippines come within his scope, since they
were dependent on the Spanish authorities in Mexico City. He takes
keen interest also in the manufacture of vegetable products, like indigo
(674 ff.). He was fascinated by the mines at Huancavelica, Oruro,
Potosi and elsewhere, and his detailed account is a valuable supplement
to Acosta (1467)—in fact, the fullest survey of early mining in
South America.

But the greatest interest aroused by the resurrection of Vazquez
has been among the anthropologists; in fact, the first publication of
any part of the text was the chapters on the customs of the Arawak
and Carib Indians (183-187), with a Dutch translation by C. H.
De Goeje in “De West-Indische Gids,”’ 1931. Still more important
perhaps are the data which he gives on the little-known Pampas,
Charrtas, and Guaicurti Indians; the index references to these and

INTRODUCTION x1

other tribes, especially under the heading “Indian,” will greatly enlarge
our knowledge; see particularly “Indian languages.”

I am not sure however but that Vazquez’ greatest contribution lies
neither in geography, botany, nor anthropology, but in the field of
Spanish colonial and ecclesiastical administration. Here his picture is
so complete that the book will be required reading for any investigator
into Spanish American history. Nor does he confine himself to the
mechanical framework. The honest and earnest old Carmelite is a
fearless critic and does not hesitate to condemn weakness and corrup-
tion ; our index headings ‘‘Treatment of the Indians” and “Depopula-
tion” furnish an indictment perhaps more telling than Las Casas’
because so obviously without exaggeration; it ranges from the sly
hint in 84 that the Nutabé Indians use the same word for Spaniard
and Devil, to the eloquent attack on the Indian Administrators and
Protectors in 1941-1942. No more concise statement of the weakness
of Spanish colonization has ever been made than his comment on the
failure to maintain the magnificent Inca highways: “no one looks
beyond his personal advantage to the common benefit” (1578). The
Council of the Indies has tried to remedy the abuses, but they still
exist (51). Maladministration meets with frequent reprobation, as
in 931 and 1112; and low business morals are criticized in connection
with the pitch traffic (722), cheating on gold dust (1133), and the
stealing of ore (1471) ; and he remarks on the ease with which govern-
ing officials enrich themselves (747, 1392). Indeed, he attributes in
690 much of the Indians’ low estate to the bad example set them by
the Spaniards. Nor does he confine his disapproval to administrative
and business circles. One cannot help feeling that he presents Lope
de Aguirre’s strictures on the quality of the judges sent out from
Spain, with a certain relish (1215) ; and his praise of the Franciscans’
high ideals (615) inevitably reflects upon worldliness in other orders.
He is severe in dealing with the indifference of the priests about
Arica (1416), and has no patience with curates drawing salaries of
$4,000 who do not even bother to put doors on their churches (1413) ;
in passing, I would draw attention to the index references to ecclesi-
astical and other salaries, particularly in connection with the prices
of labor and staples (see “Prices”). Yet from his remarks in 1339
about the use of coca and tobacco, it is clear that he is no bigoted
Puritan but an experienced executive and sympathetic observer.

And this wide experience and generous sympathy give his narrative
a peculiar charm, especially as he is a born story teller and rises at
times to sustained eloquence, as in his magnificent passage about the
Maya ruins at Coban (697) and his reflections on the past greatness

Xil INTRODUCTION

of the Inca Empire (1343). Of the stories, let me recommend that
of the woman eaten by alligators (744), the chieftainess who captured
an alligator (1123), the whale fishery (1753) ; for picturesque descrip-
tions, the arrival at La Rioja (Tucuman) by the avenue of orange
trees in blossom (1776), the mosquitoes on the Guayaquil River
(1117), methods of crossing streams (1187 f.), the christening of a
Guaicurti Indian chieftain’s son (1804 f.), the disappointment of new
arrivals on the arid Peruvian coast (1175). This charm extends to
many tiny details, like the information that the Rector of the College
at La Plata (Sucre) gets an allowance of 4 reals a day for grass for
his mule (1741). We share Vazquez’ enthusiasm for the University
of Lima (1275 ff.) and the city’s admirable hospitals (1272 ff.) ;
it is amusing to find the complaint three centuries ago, that the Uni-
versity was turning out more graduates than could find places (1276).

It was my good fortune to spend years of my young manhood
editing one of the great characters of antiquity—the historian Am-
mianus Marcellinus, whom a recent critic has pronounced the leading
literary figure between Tacitus and Dante. It is now my high privi-
lege to introduce to the modern world one of the noblest and ablest
of those scores of thousands who carried Spanish civilization and
ideals to the New World; and I end the 3 years I have spent in com-
munion with him, with a respect and an affection which I hope are
conveyed by this translation.

CHARLES Upson CLARK.

COMPENDIUM AND DESCRIPTION OF THE
WEST ENDIES

Part I

Boox I

Of the Origin and Lineage of the Indians; from What Ancestry
They Are Descended; When and by What Route They Came To
Inhabit the Indies; Much about Their Rites and Customs, with
Other Characteristics Worthy of Note; the Course Navigated by
the Galleons and Fleets to the Indies, and the Return Voyage to
Spain.

CHAPTER I

Of the Course Laid to the Indies, and the Return to Spain.

1. The galleons, fleets, and other ships which sail to the Indies of
New Spain, the Spanish Main and other parts thereof, leave Sanlucar
de Barrameda or Cadiz, which are at 37° N.; sailing from there, they
round the island of Salmedina, which is half a league SE. of Sanlucar ;
in summer they steer SW. and in winter SW.4S. to Cape Cantin, at
32°, because of the breezes blowing from the Barbary coast; from
there they steer SW.4W., to Point Anaga on the island of Teneriffe
in the Canaries, which is at 28° and 250 leagues, sailors’ reckoning,
from Spain, and they usually pass within sight of those islands.
Thence they sail through the Great Gulf WSW. to 20°, and from
that latitude they steer W.4SW. to 15°30’, from which point sailing
W. they make the island of Deseada, and if they sail along 15°, the
island of Marigalante, which will be over 750 leagues from the
Canaries, and 1,000 from Spain; the galleons and fleets take on water
at these Guadeloupe islands, and some fresh provisions of poultry,
fish, and native fruit, which the heathen Indians of those islands bring
them in exchange for axes, knives, and other articles.

2. There will be on those islands, and on that of Granada, over
18,000 Indians, who go naked, belong to the Carib tribe, and call
themselves Camajuyas, which means thunderbolt, since they are brave
and warlike. The islands have a warm, moist climate, with great
forests and groves, which seem a bit of Paradise. From there the

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS, VOL. 102 (WHOLE VOLUME)
2 I

2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

fleets for New Spain sail within sight of the islands of Puerto Rico
and Santo Domingo, to the S. of them, some 500 leagues, to Cape
San Anton, the westernmost point of the island of Cuba. From there
they sail to the port of Vera Cruz; the due course and time for the
voyage are known by the pilots, who take care to plot a good course.

8. From the above-mentioned islands to Cartagena and Puerto
Bello there is a direct E.-W. route, but for greater safety they pass
between Dominica and Matarino and sail 50 leagues WSW. and then
W.1SW. to 12°, sighting a headland on the Cape de la Vela; immedi-
ately upon recognizing the Sierra Nevada which lies above Santa
Marta, they sail WNW. until they sight the light-colored water of
the Rio Grande, whereupon they steer SW., aiming at Morro Hermoso
and the Point de la Canoa, up to Cartagena; from Cartagena they
sail to Puerto Bello, a matter of go leagues.

4. From Vera Cruz it is 300 leagues’ sail to Havana; on leaving
port they head NE. up to 25°; from there they steer E. till they
sound at the Tortugas, and from them they run to Havana. From
Puerto Bello it is also 300 leagues’ sail to Havana. On leaving the
harbor they steer E. till they make a N.-S. line with Cativa Head ;
then ESE. to the island of San Bernardo, from which they sail E. to
Cartagena. From there they steer NE. to 13°; from 13° to 16°30’
lie the shoals of Serrana, Serranilla, etc., where they navigate cau-
tiously on account of the shoals; on the same course they sight the
Isle of Pines, passing within view of it, and then Cape San Anton, to
which they have to give heed on account of shoals; right afterward
they come to Havana harbor.

5. From Havana the galleons and fleets leave by the Bahama Chan-
nel and once out, they steer NE. up to 32°; thence E.4NE. to 38°
or 39°; on this course they make the Terceras Islands; this is the
summer route.

6. On the winter route they steer from the Bahama Channel E.
for the island of Bermuda, which lies at 32°30’. Passing along its
southern coast and following the route, they sail as far as 37°, on
which lies the island of Santa Maria; for the island of Tercera, they
sail to 38° ; for San Miguel, to 37°; at these they take on necessary
fresh provisions. From there it is 300 leagues to Spain; 40 or 50 of
them are sailed E. and then they turn and steer E.4SE. till they sight
Cape St. Vincent; from the cape they sail an E.-W. course to
Sanlucar. That is the most usual and secure route set and followed
by the galleons and fleets, to go to the Indies and return to Spain.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 3

CHAPTER II

In Which the World Is Stated To Be Round; Its Extent; and
How, in the Countries Belonging to His Majesty, at Every Hour
Mass Is Being Said.

7. In order to continue with greater clearness and precision in the
description I am writing of the West Indies, New Spain and its other
dependencies, and the southern provinces of Peru, as well as the
tribes which settled this New World and their different languages,
it will be advisable to discuss the whole world in passing, since in
practically every part of it the valiant Spaniards have conquered with
invincible courage innumerable provinces, kingdoms, and nations, win-
ning them for the monarchs of Spain; in all of which the Holy Gospel
has been preached with such success for the Church and the monarchy
of Spain that (in contrast to the various nations and monarchies
which have not permitted it, from the perfidious and hypocritical
heretics of the North, and the Turks and the Persians, as far as
Great Tartary and the Chinese, who have not known God or served
Him in genuine divine worship) the very Catholic and puissant King
of Spain has sheltered, extended, and upheld the Holy Catholic Faith
through the great valor and effort of his Spanish vassals, in conse-
quence of which at every hour without pause praise is continually
offered to God and agreeable sacrifice made to Him; and thus His
Divine Majesty will be served, that all may come to real knowledge
Onin.

8. It is well known and agreed that the world is round, since the
curve the sun makes over it from E. to W. indicates the fact, even
if it had not been described and discussed by so many geographers,
mathematicians, and other writers; and that the parts of it are like
the whole, is evident ; that is shown out on the high seas, where only
water and sky are seen, and the sea forms a curved horizon, visible
as far as sight can reach, and the same is seen when one travels on
land over a plain. The earth is the center of this visible universe,
which is fixed and fastened upon itself in accordance with the disposi-
tion of Divine Providence, as is indicated by the Equinoxes; it sus-
tains and holds everything within itself; the sea, even though it is
very great and deep, neither swings nor tilts one way or the other,
nor covers the earth, being obedient to the command of God: “Thou
hast set a bound that they may not pass over; that they turn not
again to cover the earth.”

9. In addition to this there are reckoned to be on earth five zones
or bands: the two outermost very cold, consisting of the Arctic and

4 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Antarctic polar regions, N. and S.; the two temperate, where the
sun reaches the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, keeping them as its
limits, without being able to go beyond them; and the median zone
of the earth, which is the equinoctial and is called the Torrid Zone.
Since these are so well known and obvious, as are the parts of the
world included in them which are inhabited, I would say that from
the Torrid Zone to either of the Poles, Arctic or Antarctic, there are
90 degrees, of 174 leagues each; from one Pole to the other, 180 de-
grees; another 180 degrees from E. to W., measured in a straight
line. Thus the universe contains 360 degrees, of 174 leagues each,
making on a great circle 6,300 leagues from one Pole to the other,
and from E. to W.; as for the circumference, God alone can measure
it, and not human understanding.

10. I asserted that in all the countries which His Majesty holds
under his empire, continually, at every hour, and without pause, the
Holy Sacrifice is being celebrated; that is certain of the Mass, con-
sidering the course of the sun and its retardation over the great dis-
tance which separates some countries from others; e.g., when it is
midday in Spain, in the Indies, which are 2,000 leagues from Spain
to the W., it is between 5 and 6 a.m., because there the sun rises above
the horizon, on account of the remoteness, that length of time later
than in Spain, which is to the E. with reference to the West Indies ;
and so it goes with the rest, according to the greater or lesser dis-
tance between one country and another. In fact, if one considers the
countries in the Indies from Cartagena, which is at 10°N., to the city
of Castro in the Kingdom of Chile, in the Chiloé Islands, which are
at 43°S., there is a distance of over 1,400 leagues, in which there is a
retardation of the sun in its rising and setting, not only with regard
to our hemisphere but also to Cartagena for another fraction of time;
so that with the Kingdom of Chile, which is on the same parallel with
Spain but toward the other Pole, one has to consider that in a gen-
eral way it is nearly at the antipodes of Spain, and that consequently
when it is day in Spain, it is night down there.

11. And if we consider the distance from Chile to New Mexico,
which is likewise in the latitude of Chile, but in the opposite direc-
tion, and the great distance from New Spain to the Philippine
Islands—over 2,000 leagues of navigation to Manila, which is at
14° N.,—we have likewise to admit that in this vast expanse the sun
has to suffer great retardation, with many hours of difference; then
come the Moluccas, 400 leagues to the S., and India, which is 500 E. ;
so that if one makes the reckoning and computation in fine detail of
the path traced successively by the sun in the countries held by His

WHOLE VOL; 2HE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 5

Majesty, over those regions as a whole, day is unceasingly to be found,
and in consequence agreeable sacrifice is always being made and
offered to God in over 70,000 churches which exist in those countries.

12. Besides this, there exists, in the territories of His Majesty, a
difference of entire days, within a short distance; the reason is that
in sailing from E. to W., and from W. to E., one makes a complete
circle of the globe; some arrive in India going E., others going W.
reach the Philippines which are close to India and China, to Goa and
Macao, which are some 80 or 100 leagues from the Philippines ; and
in that distance which is so slight, there is a whole day’s difference,
so that when it is Sunday in Macao, it is Saturday in Manila. The
reason is that those sailing from W. to E. gain a day, for the sun
keeps constantly rising earlier for them; whereas for those who sail
from E. to W., the sun keeps rising later every day; so that the
farther they keep traveling E. or W., the earlier or later day dawns
on them.

13. And so when the Castilians have sailed from E. to W. via
New Spain, and the Portuguese from W. to E., finishing the jour-
ney to Macao and the Philippines, which are not far from each other,
those who have sailed from W. to E. have gained 12 hours, and those
coming from W. to E. have lost 12 other hours, for the reason stated
above; and thus at one and the same moment, though Macao is so
near Manila, they find a difference of an entire day, that is 24 hours.
And so when it is Sunday in Macao, in Manila it is Saturday, because
those who have sailed to Macao have followed the rising sun, and
so kept reckoning the day earlier, since the sun rose before them at
an earlier hour; and thus on the contrary in the case of those sailing
to the Philippines from E. to W., the sun has kept rising later. Thus
the diversity of meridians causes a difference in the reckoning of
days, and since those who sail E. or W. keep altering meridians with-
out noticing it, and keep following the same reckoning they started
with, it is perfectly certain that when they have made the entire circuit
of the globe, they find themselves one whole day out, as we have said.

CuHaptTerR III

Of the World-Wide Flood and the Confusion of Tongues in the
Building of the Tower of Babel.

14, When 1,056 years had passed since the creation of the earth,
Noah was born, son of Lamech; and when Noah was 500 years old,
God decided to put an end to the earth with a universal flood, on
account of the serious and abominable sins of mankind; and in order

6 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

that the holy Patriarch Noah and his sons might escape the Flood
and the human race be preserved in them, He commanded him in the
year 1556 to build the Ark, which took 100 years in the making ; that
same year of 1556 there was born to him his eldest son, Japhet, and
2 years later, Shem in 1558, and the third, Ham, in 1562.

15. On finishing the Ark in the hundredth year of its building, in
the year 1656, at God’s command the holy Patriarch Noah entered
it with his three sons and his wives, making eight in all, in whom was
preserved the human race; and together with them there entered all
the animals and birds, as Holy Scripture records. In that same year
1656, after everything had been arranged as God had ordained and
commanded the holy Patriarch, it rained 40 days and nights without
stopping, and all the springs and fountains gushed forth water, which
caused the world-wide Flood, in which perished and died not only men
but animals and birds, only those escaping who had entered the Ark
for reproduction and sacrifices. The waters lasted from the Flood
(before it was possible to dwell on earth again) that whole year of
1656, during which the First Age closed; and the Second began in
1657.

16. After the Flood had passed and the waters had ceased and
abated in the year 1657, Noah left the Ark with his sons, and in
offering thanks to God he made sacrifice of clean animals and birds,
and God being pleased with the sacrifice blessed them and said:
“Increase and multiply and fill the earth, for I promise you and give
my word that I shall never again drown you or your offspring” ; as
is stated in the 9th chapter of Genesis in the following words: “And
God said: I will establish my covenant with you; neither shall all
flesh be cut off any more by the waters of a flood; neither shall there
any more be a flood to destroy the earth; and when I shall obscure
the sky with clouds, my bow shall appear in the clouds, and I will
remember my covenant, which I have established with you, and there
shall never again be waters for the destruction of all flesh.”

17. After the passing of the Flood, there began the Second Age,
in the year 1657, which lasted till the year 1949, when Abraham was
born—a period of 292 years. The sons of Noah scattered over vari-
ous parts of the world. Japhet, the eldest, went with his seven sons
and their descendants to Europe and settled it, and to Spain, and the
northern part of Asia. Ham, the third son, went with his offspring
in the direction of Africa and settled Bactria, Judaea, Arabia, Egypt,
Ethiopia, and ali Guinea, and it appears that the curse which his
father Noah laid upon him, reached especially all his descendants in
those regions of Ethiopia and Guinea, not merely because they are

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA a

mostly slaves, but in the dark color, a result of the curse going into
effect—if it be not that the temperature and the climate have
contributed. Shem, the second son, whom Holy Scripture calls
Melchisedek, King of Salem, and Priest of the Most High God, went
off with his family to the eastern part of Syria, and settled the banks
of the River Euphrates and all that country; and there was born to
him, 2 years after the Flood, which was 1659, Arphaxad his first-
born; and when Arphaxad was 35 years old, in 1694, Salah was born
to him; and in 1724 when Salah was 30 years old, Eber was born to
him, who was righteous, and prophesied the dispersion of tongues.

18. And when the sons and descendants of Noah had gone out, at
the beginning of the Second Age, after the passing of the Flood, to
the Orient, looking for land, taking as their chieftain Nimrod, who
was vigorous and powerful beyond all others, the son of Cush, grand-
son of Ham and great-grandson of Noah, they found fertile and
pleasant fields in the land of Shinar, where they settled. Considering
the Flood over, and forgetting with scant loyalty the promise and the
word which God had given them, they went into council and said:
“Before we scatter over the countries of the world, let us celebrate
our name and make it famous. Let us make ourselves a city and a
tower, whose top may reach to Heaven (Gen. XI). Let us make a
city and tower whose columns and turrets may reach and vie with
Heaven, so that if there be another flood like the one past, those who
are living may escape and save themselves in it and not perish, as
happened in the past flood”; being ungrateful and forgetful of the
promises God had made them; and so they began building and con-
structing in the year 1758, and continued the construction, making
much progress, up to the year 1996. And when God considered the
grave sins of mankind, the ingratitude and lack of faith they had had
in His divine word and promise, and that they did not cease continu-
ing the construction of their proud and lofty tower, peeping into the
balconies and belvederes of Heaven, he said: “So come, let us go
down and let us confound their language, so that each will fail to
understand his neighbor’s speech” ; and so God scattered them from
that spot over all lands, and they stopped building the city, and for
that reason its name is called Babel, because there the speech of the
whole world was confounded—.e., “Since they have been ungrateful
and faithless to the word I gave them, come on then, let us go down
and let us confound their language there, so that they may not under-
stand each other.”” And thus the Lord scattered them from that place
over all the earth, and they stopped building the city ; for which reason
that spot was called Babel, because it was there that the natural and

8 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

holy language was confounded, which God had given our father
Adam when he created him, and which had remained the sole language
up to the year 1996, when he confounded it, 339 years after the pass-
ing of the Flood, when Abraham was 45 years old.

CHAPTER IV

Continuing the Description of the Preceding Subject.

19. After the natural and holy language had been confounded
through the ingratitude and sins of mankind, it remained with Eber,
who was righteous, the great-grandson of Noah, who likewise assisted
in the construction of Babylon and its tower, as many saints and
learned doctors hold; and that is why it is called Hebrew, and they
even assert further that if a child were brought up without hearing
any language spoken, it would naturally speak Hebrew. Among the
others who assisted in the building of the city and the tower, it was
confounded into 72 principal languages, in such a way that they
neither understood the original language nor one another. There-
upon the construction ceased and they scattered over all the coun-
tries of the world and the languages split up into numerous mother
tongues and special languages, as we see and recognize by experience
all over the world.

20. After the passage of 1,704 years from the confounding of the
original language into 72, in the year 3700, the King of Egypt, Ptolemy
Philadelphus, sent a present to the High Priest Eleazar, brother of
Simon the Just, whom he succeeded in the priesthood, and at the
same time requested that Eleazar send him some of the most learned
rabbis that he had, to translate the Holy Bible from Hebrew into
Greek ; and the High Priest Eleazar (not without mystic significance)
chose from each of the Twelve Tribes, 6 of the most learned rabbis,
thus making 72, to translate it; since if the original holy language
had been confounded into 72 mother tongues, there should be 72
interpreters to clarify and interpret it, translating it into Greek.
These are the 72 translators, who are so renowned; for if it was true
that through men’s ingratitude and sins the original language was
confounded and obscured, nevertheless through the clarification of
these translators, one comes to understand many of the mysteries
which the Holy Bible contains within itself. All this was done at
the request and cost of Ptolemy Philadelphus, which means “lover
of sciences.”

21. And since the confusion of tongues had gone on increasing
over all the regions and provinces of the world, so that men were

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 9g

living blind and savage in slavery to the Devil, who kept them de-
ceived with countless varieties of sacrifices, unclean, loathsome and
cruel, of human beings whom they offered to him; for the cure of
such great evils and sins, Christ our Redeemer and Lord came to the
world in the year 3967 after its creation, and 2179 after the confusion
of tongues. Herewith the Seventh Age commenced, and at 30 years
of age He began to preach; and in order that the Holy Gospel might
be preached and might come to the notice and knowledge of all the
nations which had split up and scattered over the earth with such
confusion and diversity of tongues, in addition to the holy Apostles,
He designated 72 other Disciples, as St. Luke states, chapter X:
“The Lord appointed other seventy also, and sent them two and two,
and said to them: The harvest truly is great, but the laborers few.”
If the original and holy language was confounded into 72, with which
men scattered over the world and forgot God, sunk in their vices,
sins, and idolatries, the Lord nevertheless appointed 72 disciples for
their cure and in order to extricate them from the blindness in which
they were living, and sent them out to preach two by two, saying to
them: “The harvest is great, and the laborers few.”

22. And in order that they might do this better, and preach His
Divine Word among so many and such diverse nations with such dif-
ferent languages, He prepared and enriched them with gifts of
tongues, so that all might understand them, as is told in chapter I of
the Acts of the Apostles: “But ye shall receive the power of the
Holy Ghost coming upon you, and ye shall be witnesses upon me in
Jerusalem and in all Judaea, and in Samaria, and unto the uttermost
part of the earth.’ And in chapter II, he says: ‘They were all filled
with the Holy Ghost, and began to speak with various tongues, as
the Spirit gave them what they should speak. They spoke in various
languages of the wonderful works of God.” And in chapter XIX he
says: ‘When Paul had laid his hands upon them, the Holy Ghost
came on them; and they spoke with tongues and prophesied.”

23. By the prophet Joel, in chapter II, he had promised this: “‘I
will pour out my spirit upon all flesh.” And by Zephaniah, chapter ITI,
he had promised them the same: “For I shall return and give to the
people a choice language, that they may all call upon the name of
the Lord and serve Him with one consent; from beyond the rivers
of Ethiopia, even from there the suppliant sons of my dispersed and
scattered children shall bring me gifts and presents.”

IO SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER V

Discussing the Condition of the Countries Which Had Just Passed
Through the Flood, and How They Split Apart, and How the First
Settlers Crossed to the Indies.

24. These are very difficult matters to handle—how, when, and
by what routes those tribes crossed to settle the New World of the
Indies, and by what genealogy and lineage they could have issued
and descended ; for with regard to those colonies of New Spain and
Peru and the other regions comprised in the New World, as large
as the three of the Old World of Europe, Asia, and Africa, there
was no word or trace until, in the year 1492, the renowned Don
Cristobal Colén (Christopher Columbus) made a beginning of his
discoveries, and in so doing underwent great risks and excessive dif-
ficulties—the world’s foremost achievement, for which it ought to be
called Colonia, as is stated by the most learned D. Juan de Solorzano,
most erudite Justice of the Supreme Council of the Indies, in “De
Indiarum Jure,” ff. 38-39, book I, chapter 4; in all of that he argues
it should be called Colonia from Colén, and not America. And I do
not know with what justification Americus Vespuccius usurped the
name, poor mariner that he was, neither first in crossing to those
regions, nor accomplishing anything sufficiently notable to have his
name immortalized with the glory of such a discovery, since he was
not the one who made it.

25. I would remark that there are several important authors who
have written on this subject all that they could dig out and arrive at,
without however reaching any conclusion approaching certainty, but
rather leaving it more in doubt, as a consequence of the antiquity of
its immemorial age and duration; for it was not known until coura-
geous Christopher Columbus, with the support of the Catholic
monarchs, discovered it, not without divine order and providence, in
order that the Holy Gospel might be preached to those peoples, and
that they might come to the knowledge of His most Holy Name, as
He had promised through Zephaniah, chapter III: “For then I will
give those peoples a choice language (which is the Gospel), that they
may thus call upon the name of the Lord, and serve Him.”

26. And since both in this as in all else I desire and aim at brevity
and clearness, I will state as best I can formulate it with my limited
talent, what seems evident to me and I understand, leaving to one
side the views of previous authors, except as I choose those which
seem to me most apposite. Accordingly I assume that the whole
earth, both the New World and the Old (and well-known), either

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA II

were all one or else at least communicated with each other. In the
deep waters of the world-wide Flood, rising 15 cubits deep over the
peaks of the highest and loftiest mountains, as is stated in chapter VII
of Genesis, “all the highest mountains, that were under the whole
heaven, were covered, and the water was 15 cubits deeper than they,
over all the mountains it covered.” After the passage of the Flood,
the waters were gathered again to the seas, in which process the force
of the waters expanded and made some slight division of the earth,
and some narrow straits through the softest stretches, in the union
of one large body of water with another ; and there are even opinions
that at the present day the land of the New World is connected with
that of the Old, in a northerly region; but it has not been possible
to verify this, on account of its great elevation and because that region
is frozen and uninhabitable through its extreme degree of excessive
cold.

27. We know and are well acquainted with the coast and mainland
of Labrador, and 200 leagues farther N., up to the Rio Nevado
(Snowy River), and in that quarter it is some 4o leagues from the
island of Greenland, and near Iceland; these are distant 50 leagues
more from Finmark, a Scandinavian province of the Kingdom of
Sweden, in the northernmost part of Europe. The Strait of Anian
lies between Tartary and the northernmost territory of New Spain,
beyond Quivira, and from Cape Mendocino it runs N. and S. from
56° to 68°30’, and it is this strait which alone divides the New World
from the Old; it is 6 leagues across, and it connects the one sea with
the other, and divides the mainlands.

28. Cape St. Augustine and Cape Blanco are points of land, or
promontories, lying between the great River Marafion and Brazil ;
they have opposite them to the E., Cape Verde, African territory,
and they are distant from each other only 350 leagues; it may be
that in the beginning these lands were closer together, shortly after
the end of the Flood, so that there was easy communication between
them, and that they became separated by the long passage of time
and of centuries, both because water keeps continually eating away
and hollowing out land, and likewise in consequence of great world-
wide earthquakes which have occurred in various epochs. In the
year 3165 after the Creation of the World, 802 before the birth of
Christ our Lord, when Azariah was reigning in Judah, there was a
great earthquake and convulsion, which almost broke up the bounds
of the earth. And in the times of the Emperor Valentinian, 364
years after the birth of Christ, there was another tremendous uni-
versal earthquake, over all the world, which bent and broke up the

T2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

bounds of the earth. So that not only long lapse of time, which
changes and terminates everything; the currents which normally
exist; the prolongation of the sea into some land areas—all these
have penetrated into the land and eaten up much of it ; but earthquakes
have contributed their share to it by extending the sea and breaking
up the land and cutting it apart, of which fact there are many ex-
amples which I have seen with my own eyes in the Indies, but for
conciseness’ sake I do not instance.

CHAPTER VI

Continuing the Subject, and How the First Settlers Crossed to
the Indies.

29. The doubt which presents itself is whether the first settlers of
that New World came there by sea or by land; if by sea, they must
have gone and arrived there by one of two ways, either driven by
some Overpowering tempest which carried them there, as has hap-
pened frequently in various epochs, as related by various trustworthy
authors, and in other cases in our own times. Pliny states in books 2,
6, and 69, that when Quintus Metellus was Proconsul of Gaul, the
King of the Suevi consigned to him some Indians, who when sailing
from India or China on business, had been carried by a driving storm
to the German Ocean; and in the days of the Emperor Frederick
Barbarossa, some Indians reached Lubeck in a dugout, carried by
another storm. The Andalusian pilot who was trading among the
Canary Islands and got carried off by another storm to the discovery
of the Indies, by name Alonso Sanchez, a native of the city of Huelva
in the County of Niebla, in the Archdiocese of Seville, about the
year 1480, had such ill fortune that through his death, the result of
the trials undergone in the storm and the exploration he carried out,
he was unable to leave his name immortalized, but he left to the
renowned Christopher Columbus for his kind hospitality the journals
and notes which he had kept on the voyage, by virtue of which
Columbus later made the great discovery of the Indies.

30. Bartholomew Carrefio in another great storm caused by the
evil spirits, not without divine permission, resisting them valiantly
like another Job, came in one night from the Indies to Spain, and
numerous others made long voyages. Hanno, a Carthaginian captain,
sailed from Gibraltar and coasted the whole of Africa, as far as the
extreme tip of Arabia; and Eudoxus fled in the opposite direction
from the King of the Latiri, by the Red Sea and along the African
coast up to Gibraltar; and there are many others mentioned by

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA eS

ancient and modern writers, whom for brevity’s sake I do not enu-
merate. The famous Andalusian Spaniard Seneca, a native of Cor-
dova, recounts many shipwrecks in his tragedy “Medea”; so do
Plato and others, as may be seen from their writings.

31. Or else the first voyages were deliberate, with a fleet or armada,
to explore and settle that New World. How ancient long voyages
were, with flotillas across the ocean, is evident from I Kings, chap-
ter X, and II Chronicles, chapter IX, when Solomon sent his fleet
with skilled pilots and seamen, vassals of King Hiram, for gold and
other valuables which they brought from Ophir, or Tarshish; in such
long voyages they took 3 years to go, stay, and return, sailing from
the port Ezion-geber of Idumaea in the Red Sea, in the strait which
it forms to empty into the ocean, which the pilots and seamen used
to navigate the same way as our fleets do. And it is certain that Solo-
mon, whom God enriched with the gift of wisdom and science com-
bined, by which he came to know the virtues and properties of all
herbs, stones, and other things, so that the virtues and properties of
the lodestone could not be hidden from him, in order to send the
fleets for the valuables of which Holy Scripture speaks, would teach
those pilots and seamen the route and how they should follow it, for
them to know how to make so long a voyage. This truth is confirmed
by the Book of Wisdom, chapter XIV: “For Thou gavest a way in
the sea and a most secure path between the waves’’; and in the sea
there can be neither path nor road, for one sees only sky and water
there, without acquaintance with the particular virtue and property
possessed by the lodestone, of looking to the N.

32, There are many other passages in Holy Writ which confirm
this truth. The Chinese for their voyages used and took advantage
of the lodestone from time immemorial, without having learned its
use from Europeans, but learning from Solomon or his pilots. Later,
the Hebrews must have forgotten its use and their acquaintance with
it, what with their continual wars, trials, and captivities, and the fact
that they made no voyages; that is not surprising, for many things
are known and later people fail to use them and they then become
forgotten and no longer known. So it is no cause for astonishment
that in European countries people were unacquainted with this special
virtue and property of the admirable lodestone, until Flavio, a native
of Amalfi, a city in the Kingdom of Naples, devised the marine com-
pass needle, some 300 years ago, as stated by Blondus and Maffeo
Girardo; and the fact that up to the period just mentioned, such
virtue was not recognized in the lodestone, does not invalidate its
having been known and utilized in Solomon’s day.

14 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CuHaPtTer VII

Continuing the Preceding Subject, and How Those Peoples Crossed
to Settle the Indies, and the Animals Living in Them.

33. If they went overland in search of new countries, it is certain
that when the Flood had recently abated, the earth was more closely
joined together and united, because the sea had not penetrated so far
into it; and since in the neighborhood of the Poles the mainland of
the New World borders so close on that of the Old (and well-known)
World, there is no doubt that with the continued encroachment of
the seas upon the land, and their currents in the straits, plus the
world-wide earthquakes which have occurred over the earth, the seas
themselves have expanded and penetrated deeper into the land, and
in conjunction with the long passage of time, which alters everything,
they have separated and split up the land.

34. This is considered certain, since with the passage of so many
centuries and the events recorded in them, we know that toward the
N. the country of Labrador runs to the Rio Nevado (Snowy River),
and keeps on farther, without our knowing where it ends or how far
it extends, since it lies beneath the Pole; and in any event, as has
been said, the territories of the New World are near neighbors to
the known Old World, if indeed they are not really connected and
united in that quarter. Over the Strait of Anian the mainland of
Tartary is in sight of that of the New World, at the northernmost
point of New Mexico and the Kingdom of Quivira, beyond Cape
Mendocino; the Strait separates the two worlds by a distance of 6
leagues.

35. From Cape Blanco, or Cape St. Augustine, between the River
Maranon and Brazil, it is no more than 350 leagues at present to
Cape Verde, which is over E. on the African continent, where the
River Niger (likewise called the Great River) empties by many
mouths into the ocean. It is certain that in the beginning the two con-
tinents were not so far apart and the ocean had not eaten so far into
them, expanding and penetrating into them, as for many centuries it
has done for the reasons mentioned ; that has been aided by the power-
ful currents of great rivers, putting out from land; and this does
not contradict the statement of the Psalm: “Thou hast set a bound
that they may not pass over; that they turn not again to cover the
earth.”

36. Near the Strait of Magellan is what is called Tierra del Fuego,
which is still not well known or explored, and there are numerous
other quarters where the mainland of the New World could have

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 15

communicated with that of the Old, or at least have lain so close as
to afford passage not merely for the peoples who settled the New
World, but the various kinds of animals which live in them—many
of species well known in Europe and elsewhere, and others peculiar
and unique in the world, like the Peruvian sheep, the guanacos,
vicufias, and tarugas. These sheep, or llamas, as the Indians call
them, have no horns; they are the size of large deer, with long necks
like camels, and they look like small camels. These sheep or llamas
are of two kinds, some woolly, which they call pacos, and others
smooth-skinned with little wool, which are the best for beasts of
burden; they are of different colors, some white, some black; there
are dark gray ones, and others streaked black and white, which the
Indians call moromoro. Their wool is as good as that of merino
sheep; the Indians make the cloth for their garments from it, and
they derive great benefit from this animal, as is well known.

37. The guanacos are of the same species as the tame domesticated
llamas, except that they are wild. The vicufias are of the same figure
and build, but slenderer; their wool is of a lustrous chestnut color,
or that of lye-cured raisins, and finer than silk; their belly is white ;
they are very timid and swift-footed ; they live in general up by the
snow, for they have the cold and frozen upland as their headquarters.
The tarugas are somewhat larger, and are also wild. All these animals
grow bezoar stones in their stomachs, owing to the medicinal herbs
which they crop and chew. These animals are only to be found in
the Kingdom of Chile and the cold regions of Peru; they have not
been seen in any other part of the world; ordinarily they breed and
graze in frigid country; taken away from it, they die off.

38. With regard to these animals, my judgment is that when the
Flood had only recently abated and the mainland of the one world
was connected with the other, or at any rate so close that the sea had
not yet severed them, they moved from one country to another, graz-
ing along, and in what they call Tierra del Fuego, which still is not
well explored or known, they passed into that New World in that
quarter, and spread over the Kingdom of Chile and Peru; there alone
have they persisted and multiplied, for only in that region are they
to be found, and it is not known that they exist in any other part of
the world ; and in their case it is not necessary to assume a new crea-
tion, for we know from Holy Writ that of every kind of animal,
God commanded that at the time of the Flood a pair should enter
the Ark, for breeding, nor with them does one have to assume a new
product, for they are perfect animals, not of the imperfect products

10 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of the earth, like mice, frogs, and others of the sort, which are pro-
duced by the putrefaction of the earth.

39. Neither should we theorize and conclude that they crossed at
the Strait of Anian, for if that were so, they would exist in that
region, since it is generally cold up there on account of the high
latitude where the Strait lies; and as in that country and Quivira the
woolly humpbacked buffalo have bred and perpetuated themselves,
which are likewise unique in the world, the llamas could have per-
sisted there—if indeed it is not the case that the varying conditions
and climates have accidentally differentiated them, as has been known
to happen with some animals in taking them from one country to
another; of this there are examples in La Guaira and Villarica,
localities in the Diocese of Paraguay. The cows and bulls which are
taken there grow hair that is thick and very long, and at the same
time they lose their moo; still, that is not sufficient reason for con-
sidering that the Peruvian llamas and other species mentioned, must
have been changed by accident, and were not bred from the beginning
just such as they are today. If by chance they moved elsewhere,
they perished and could not perpetuate their kind; and since they
live only in the region mentioned, we have to assume as certain that
they crossed over to it as has been stated.

40. And it is not astonishing that they are found only in these coun-
tries and not in others, since that is according to divine disposition
and providence, just as elephants also are only to be found in one
region, the East Indies, and not in others; the same is true of
rhinoceroses, and in Africa with camels, and many other genera of
animals which live in some regions and not in others, according as
divine providence ordained and disposed, and according to their
natural fitness for breeding and perpetuating their kind.

41, There are many other animals in the New World of the genera
found in Europe and Africa, like lions, tigers, ounces, bears, stags,
deer, wolves, foxes, wild pigs, and other families and genera of ani-
mals; both those of the countries referred to and others which live
in those regions, very strange and peculiar. Of them all it is certain
that after the Flood abated, they came by land, some in the quarter
mentioned, others crossing from Tartary by the Strait of Anian,
others by the northern route over that country of the Rio Nevado and
other regions, and then they moved on inland into the mainland, and
thus they have increased and perpetuated themselves in those wide,
extensive territories, each species of animal in the region it required
for its increase and preservation, according to its nature. And in
these regions referred to, passage by flight was available with greater

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 17

ease for the uncounted diversity of birds, large and small, which live
in them—all disposed and ordained according as it appeared suitable
to divine providence for their propagation and preservation.

CHAPTER VIII

Discussing the Origin of the First Settlers of the Indies, and at
What Epoch They Arrived There, and by What Route.

42. It seems bold, and even foolhardy, to venture into this wide
gulf of conjectures about the antiquity of the first settlers in the
Indies, to try and bring to light the point from which they started
and came there, since we have no knowledge or compass or guide for
tracing out certainty or truth in the matter; for up to the present
time neither the saints nor ancient and modern authors on this sub-
ject, have written a word that is authoritative. To be sure, there are
varying opinions on the part of those who have written about this.
Genebrard, in book I of his “Chronology,” states that they are de-
scended from the Hebrews; the same is asserted by Father Maestro
Malvenda in his “Antiquities,” book III, chapter 18, and by Fray
Gregorio Garcia, Candidate for the Master’s Degree, of the Domini-
can Order, in his book which he called ““On the Origin of the Indians,”
and by many other saints and doctors. There are other opinions of
various writers expounding other theories, for which one can see
the reasons and arguments in the book on the origin of the Indians
written by Father Fray Gregorio Garcia; as they do not fit in with
my purpose, I shall not recount them.

43. But, through having traveled, seen and considered not only
the greater part of that New World of New Spain, Honduras and
Nicaragua, and all the Kingdom of Peru, but also the members of
the Indian tribes in general and in particular, their languages, social
conditions, usages, ceremonies, rites, superstitions, and idolatries,
about which I have made various conjectures and statements, I shall
speak to the best of my ability and present my theory of their
ancestry and where they came from.

44, And now that we have reached this point, I would say first
that as soon as God our Lord had confounded the natural and holy
language into those referred to in the building of the Tower of
Babel, the Lord scattered them over all the countries of the world;
and that the earth was then more closely connected and united, the
New World with the Old, or nearer together, for the sea had not
entered so far inland; and that Japhet, son of Noah, was the first
to sail overseas when with his sons he colonized Europe and Spain.

3

18 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

At the same time or somewhat later, in imitation of him, others could
have sailed across that section of the S., for it is certain that then
the mainlands were not so far apart one from the other, and in some
quarters they would have lain so close and near at hand that people
could have crossed on foot, colonizing step by step; and what rivers
or small arms of the sea there may have been, they could have crossed
in boats or rafts, according as necessity taught them.

45. Or, since the confusion in the building of the Tower of Babel
was in Gabaea near the banks of the Nile, they could from there
have gone and settled over all that part of Africa to the Kingdom of
Cape Verde, and from there by a short voyage pass over to the
region of Brazil and Cape St. Augustine, since the distance even
today from the one country to the other is only 350 leagues, and in
this way they could have continued settling over all that country and
the Spanish Main of the New Kingdom of Granada, thus colonizing
these and various other parts of the New World just as the Old
World had been peopled.

46. Then I would state, besides what has been mentioned, that by
virtue of certain hints and conjectures which would point out the
least dubious course, and certain passages of Holy Writ which ap-
pear to indicate it, the first colonizers of the Indies sprang from the
best nationality existing at that time in the world, namely, the Ten
Tribes of Israel, when King Shalmaneser drove them out and trans-
planted them to territories which were uninhabited, as will be told in
due course; and in especial, the Tribe of Issachar, as seems to be
established from Genesis, chapter XLIX, when, after having con-
ferred his blessing upon his sons, the holy Patriarch Jacob, being at
the point of death, prophesied to them what was to take place and
happen to them and their descendants. After having conferred his
blessing on the older sons, to wit, Reuben, Simeon, Levi, and Judah,
he conferred it upon Issachar, and it seems that the entire prophecy
and the characteristics which the holy Patriarch foretold in it for
his son Issachar, have been inherited and kept in toto by the Indians.

47. The words of the prophecy are as follows: “Issachar, a strong
ass, crouching between boundaries, saw rest, that it was good, and
the land, that it was excellent; and he bowed his shoulder to bear,
and became a servant unto tribute.”

48. He called him a strong ass because, just as donkeys bear their
load, and often blows as well, without turning against those who
load and abuse them, the Indians likewise resemble strong donkeys
in carrying heavy burdens many leagues, and it is astounding and
disconcerting that carrying these heavy burdens, they can travel

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 19

farther than Spaniards can without any, as I have seen and noted
during the time that I was in those Kingdoms of Peru, New Spain,
Honduras, and Nicaragua, and in most cases they are treated harshly
and are belabored and kicked and beaten, without turning against
those who maltreat them, as I have noticed and remarked all the
time I was in those kingdoms, and though they are so far apart, one
from the other, the character of the Indians runs in the same mold.

CHAPTER IX

Continuing the Description of the Same Subject, and the Interpre-
tation of the Prophecy with Respect to the Qualities and Character-
istics of the Indians.

49. He that sits down within the boundaries, i.e., the Indies,
because the most thickly populated part of them lies within the
Tropics, which is the central part of the globe, and the limits and
boundaries are those which God set for the sun, those which it should
reach in its natural course to bring light to the earth and the other
benefits which it causes for the welfare of living creatures and plants,
without being able to pass beyond the boundaries mentioned.

50. He saw rest that it was good, and the land excellent, and for
that reason be settled down in it; for it is the best in the world in
fruitfulness and charm, with even and uniform temperature. The
whole year through, one sows and reaps; the trees are always cov-
ered with leaves and flowers and loaded with fruit; the plains, valleys,
and woods are full of pastures for cattle, and among the herbs are
many with remarkable virtues. In the rivers and streams of sweet and
crystal-clear water, there are various kinds of delicious fish; its wealth
in gold, silver, and other metals is well known; there is abundance
of pearls and precious stones; and there are in the Indies bezoar
stones, cordials, aromatic gums, balsam and other drugs and valu-
ables, so that they lack for nothing, and so he settled there, since it
was rest for him, and very good. The days are of the same length
as the nights, for that country lies between the Tropics, and it does
not have the excessive variations of temperature we experience in
Europe, with our hot summers and cold winters; and since the land
is good, with the advantages and characteristics referred to, the
Indians do not like to leave it and they have no desire to wander in
search of new territories, as do we and other nationalities.

51. And just as the ass put his shoulder to the burden, since they
have always carried on their shoulders their burdens and products,
both in the days of their heathendom and since the Spanish conquest,

20 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and there have been great abuses in this matter, the Supreme Coun-
cil of the Indies, with sainted zeal, passed regulations to remedy
them; and although there was some improvement, they are carry-
ing the burdens (not to stultify the prophecy of the holy Patriarch).
In the days of their heathendom they were always tribute payers, and
that the prophecy may hold in every respect, they keep paying tribute,
though Christians. So that all the peculiarities and characteristics
mentioned are possessed by the Indians, without a single one missing,
and thus it appears quite certain that the Indians come from the Ten
Tribes, and in particular, from that of Issachar, since they have the
qualities mentioned; in addition, their temperament, customs, rites,
ceremonies, superstitions, and idolatries are those of the Hebrews.

52. This truth or statement is supported by the words of Esdras,
book IV, chapter XIII, which are to the following effect: For you
saw thus gathered together another peaceful multitude ; those are the
Ten Tribes which were led captive in the days of King Hoshea (as
is related in II Kings, chapters XVII and XVIII) by Shalmaneser,
King of the Assyrians, uprooting and transplanting them from
Samaria to other countries, uninhabited and remote, and he took
them over to the other side of the river, and they were transferred
to another country; and they, seeing they were deprived of their
natural home, entered into council to abandon communication with the
Gentiles, and departed from there to another distant region, where
the human race had never dwelt, to see if there they could keep the
law and customs of their ancestors, which they had not kept in their
own country. They made their way into some narrow passages of
the River Euphrates, where the Most High performed miracles,
holding back the current of the river till they had crossed (as He did
in the Red Sea when that same people of Israel went out of Egypt,
fleeing from the tyranny of Pharaoh and his Egyptians), for their
journey through that region was a very long one, of a year and a
half. That region is called Arsareth, and they lived there until a
very late period. And so, since this exile and emigration of the Ten
Tribes took place about 3,228 years after the Creation, the date when
Shalmaneser took Samaria, and 774 years after the Flight out of
Egypt, which occurred in 2454, i.e., 739 B.C., by this calculation it
would appear that from the settlement of the Indies by the Ten
Tribes to the present year, 1630, there have elapsed 2,369 years.

53. After crossing the River Euphrates they were able to go on
and they kept traveling slowly across Great Tartary, some stopping
in the cities of the Medes, and others in the course of so long a jour-
ney among the Tartars and other peoples through whom they passed ;

WHOLE VOL. THE. WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 2I

and from them they picked up their languages and their idolatries,
both those who stayed there and those who kept on to settle in the
New World; for although they had resolved on reform, they went
from bad to worse, blind in their evil deeds and idolatries, without
remembering their Creator or worrying over their sins, as is stated
in Ecclesiasticus, chapter XLVIII: For all their sins and idolatries,
the people felt no regret, nor did they abandon them, till they were
driven out of their country and scattered over the whole earth, few
having stayed behind ; for although the priests and the Levites of the
Ten Tribes, and those who were good and faithful, went over to
the Tribe of Judah, which was the noblest and most faithful, the rest
of the Ten Tribes, who were wicked and idolatrous, were scattered
and spread over all the countries of the earth.

54. And so the greater part of them kept traveling slowly across
Great Tartary and other nations, God allowing and ordaining it thus
for His own righteous judgments, in this extended journey of a
year and a half, as stated by Esdras, until they arrived at Mongul ;
and from there they crossed the Strait of Anian, and went on and
colonized the countries of New Spain, beginning at the northernmost
part of it, until with their wars and their search for land they had
colonized all of it.

55. Esdras says that at the close of this extended journey they
colonized and lived in that region which is called Arsareth. That
very learned author Genebrard, in book I of his “Chronology,” states
that Arsareth is the extreme point of Great Tartary, or Scythia;
that it is a cape or promontory which is the boundary or landmark
dividing the Old World from the New, above the Strait of Anian,
and near which they crossed from that country to New Spain. So
they could have gone by that route, or by India and China, since
there, in the region of Cathay, the people inhabiting that country
keep the Old Testament and the Law of Moses, although with many
superstitions besides. This is a full and sufficient proof that mem-
bers of the Ten Tribes passed through there, and settled there, since
that is clear from their observation of the Law; and from there they
could easily cross the strait or channel which lies between China and
the Kingdom of Anian, as may be seen on the globes or maps. And
from the Kingdom of Anian they went on exploring and colonizing
those countries of the New World never before seen or settled by
human beings.

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

iS)
to

CHAPTER X

Continuing the Description of the Origin and Ancestry of the First
Settlers in the Indies.

56. Besides what has been stated, there is another basis for the
proof of the descent of the Indians; for Ophir, son of Joktan and
grandson of Eber, colonized the Oriental ocean seaboard, and his
sons and descendants went over and colonized the lands of the Indies,
as is told by Genebrard in book I of his “Chronology,” Arias Montano
in volume 7, book Phalcus, chapter 9, and other important authorities ;
they traveled via India and China until they crossed at the Channel
or Strait of Anian; for at that point one is in sight of the northern
territory of the New World, up beyond the Kingdom of Quivira;
and from there they proceeded slowly colonizing, in the year 2024
after the Creation, 367 after the passing of the Flood, 430 before the
Flight of the Sons of Israel out of Egypt, and 1943 B.C. It may be
that since that year of 2024 just mentioned was the date when Abra-
ham left Haran for Canaan, at the age of 75, on account of the wide-
spread dearth and famine which was abroad in the world, the sons
and descendants of Ophir also may have left for that same reason,
fleeing from the famine in search of new lands, and by the route
indicated they reached the Indies and settled there, so that up to the
present year of 1630, the Indies will have been inhabited 3,573 years.

57. Or else the sons and descendants of Ophir, forced by this
universal dearth and famine caused by the crop failure all over the
world at that time, and having been brought up on the ocean coast
and thus losing fear of it, and having learned in many cases the art
of navigation from Noah and his sons, who were still living, and thus
becoming great mariners, they went on shipboard and sailed to the
W.; there they arrived at the territories of the New World, in Brazil,
the Rio de la Plata and other regions, and kept colonizing them and
intercommunicating back and forth. And as the universal Flood had
only recently abated and they still had it fresh in their memories,
from having heard about it from their elders and in particular from
Shem, who with his father Noah and his brothers had escaped alive
in the Ark; and when they crossed to colonize the Indies, Shem was
alive and it was only 17 years since Noah’s death, and so, as it was
only a short time since the Flood had abated, when they went and
colonized the Indies they had it so clearly in memory that they have
kept it in tradition, passed down from one to another, up to the
present day, for the Indians remember and know about it, through
the tradition of their ancestors, although with the long lapse of time

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 23

and the lack of writing, they have intermingled with the truth vari-
ous superstitious falsehoods, with which they have darkened the light
of truth, although they had some inkling and glimmering of it, as is
related by Father Acosta, book VI, chapter XIX, and the Inca Gar-
cilaso in book I of his “Commentaries,” chapter VIII, and other
writers.

58. Or another possibility: 3,235 years after the Creation and 7
after King Shalmaneser had captured Samaria and expelled the Ten
Tribes from it to distant lands, Sennacherib came down upon Jeru-
salem and had encircled it when in one single night the Angel slew
185,000 men of his army, as is stated in II Kings, chapter XVIII,
in the days of the sainted King Hezekiah. On that occasion there
came to the relief of Jerusalem and Egypt, Tirhakah, King of
Ethiopia, against Sennacherib, and he favored the Jews, who were
afflicted by unceasing war with the neighboring kings; for although
the Hebrews had been very powerful, and feared by all the surround-
ing nations from the year 2891 on, when David began his reign, a
great warrior and favored by God—that was the time when the
Tyrians founded Cadiz—until he died in 2931 and his son, the peace-
loving and all-wise Solomon, reigned till he died in 2971; after that
date, on account of the abominable sins of commission, of ingratitude,
and of idolatry on the part of the Hebrews and their kings for the
period of 264 years which elapsed from Solomon’s death till 3235,
when Sennacherib came down upon Jerusalem, and for a long sub-
sequent period, they were war-ridden, exiled, and carried off captive.
On that occasion many of the Hebrews fleeing from danger went off
with King Tirhakah to Ethiopia, and others went across Egypt to
the Kingdom of Nubia, which lies in inner Africa beside the Nile,
by the sources of the River Niger (called the Great River), which
runs from E. to W. through the Kingdoms of Zafara, Gangara,
Saba, Mandinga, and others, and flows into the ocean in the Kingdom
of Cape Verde through many mouths, opposite Cape St. Augustine
and Cape Blanco. At that period they could have worked down
through those kingdoms and, with only a short voyage in their search
for new lands, crossed over in the direction of Brazil and the River
Marafion, and proceeded to colonize and inhabit those countries.

59. Besides the foregoing considerations, it would appear that the
Indians are derived not merely from the tribes which we have
mentioned as crossing at various times to colonize the New World,
but from others also, following different routes and courses; some
were carried over by storms, others made voyages deliberately in
search of new territory, which they landed on and settled. Thus

*

24 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

various writers affirm that the Carthaginians, who were great sailors,
and skillful, discovered the island of Hispaniola and colonized that
and the other Windward Islands and part of the Spanish Main.
Others might have come from the direction of Sweden (the so-called
Scandinavia) and other northern nations of Europe, to settle the
country of Labrador and all those northern regions, and with the
passage of time they could have worked inland and peopled that
region. Likewise there may have crossed over from Africa those of
that district, and the Tartars and Chinese intermingled and confed-
erated with the members of the Ten Tribes and of other nationalities
in the course of the voyages and the migrations already referred to.
For with the great diversity and variety of languages, laws, customs,
rites, ceremonies, superstitions, and idolatries found among the
Indians, it is clear that they borrowed and learned them from dif-
ferent peoples, and in fact, from everywhere—if indeed it is not true
(as I consider more likely) that the Father of Lies, who kept them
deceived and blinded, himself taught them this abundance of cere-
monies, superstitions, idolatries, and revolting human sacrifices, with
which he had them worship him, holding these blind heathen tribes
under his tyranny until God our Saviour with His divine providence
and mercy sent them the light of His blessed Gospel, to bring them
out of that blind darkness in which those poor heathen were cowed
by the tyranny of the Devil. And so, although I think that from all
the regions and peoples mentioned there may have been immigration
at various epochs for the settlement of that New World, the most
reasonable theory seems to be that they are descended from the Ten
Tribes, as is indicated by many of the customs, rites, and ceremonies
which the Hebrews used to observe and the Indians observe today,
as will be related in the following chapters and is made clear in the
prophecy of the blessed Patriarch Jacob which has been already
explained.

CHAPTER XI

How the Indians Are Similar in Every Respect to the Hebrews,
from Whom They Are Derived.

60. The Indians are very much like the Jews and similar to them
in all respects, both in physique and temperament and in other char-
acteristics, such as their customs, rites, ceremonies, superstitions,
and idolatries, although we would not base this statement on what
is asserted by some inquisitive commentators, that sufficient (or at
least suitable) reason is to be found in the similarity of their names,
both being written with the same letters except merely the u of the

4

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 25

first syllable; if you change it to n, you will say Indio (Indian)
instead of Iudio (Judio, Jew), as is clear from the letters and the
names; but while that is not a sufficient argument, it does at least
weigh in favor of our opinion. It is no slight evidence in favor of
our thesis that when they conquered the provinces where at present
the city of Antioquia has been founded, in the New Kingdom of
Granada, the local king (or cacique) was named Isac and his wife
Iudit (Judith).

61. Nor is there much weight in the argument that Ophir is the
same as Peru, as maintained by our most learned Spanish writer
Arias Montano in volume VII, book Phalcus, chapter IX: for
although his opinion is of very great authority, and should have the
respect due to so important and learned a scholar, in the discussion
of a matter so remote from us, we should put more faith in experi-
ence and the observation of our own eyes, than in the opinions of
scholars who have neither seen nor experienced. Furthermore, the
name Peru, although there are rivers of that name in that region, e.g.,
near the Equator, as described by the writers on Peru, and the river
of San Miguel de Piura, was quite rare in that kingdom, and the
Indians did not know it or recognize it. Calling all that extensive
kingdom “Peru” dates from after its discovery and conquest by the
Spaniards, and not before; in my judgment, and I hold this opinion
as assured, it was in that locality of Piura, an insignificant spot, that
they built and set up the first altar on which was offered a sacrifice
pleasing to God, and that was the original beginning of it; and as
sign of occupation commemorating the introduction of the light of the
blessed Gospel and the driving out of the obscurity and darkness of
heathendom, in which the enemy of the human race held them in
deceit and bondage, God desired to honor the city of Piura, where
He had been offered the first sacrifice, even though in buildings poor
and humble; and so all that rich and far-flung empire was named
after it from that time on. And so little weight is to be given to the
explanation offered by the learned Arias Montano, that Ophir is
Peru—Peruaim or Paruaim.

62. Nor is our thesis invalidated by the statements of the Very
Rev. Fr. M. Malvenda, “De Antichristo,” book III, chapter XVI,
(and De Marineo, “De Rebus Hispanicis,” book XIX, chapter XVI),
that in the Spanish Main, where Fray Juan de Quevedo, of the
Order of St. Francis, was Bishop, some miners, dismantling a gold
mine, found a coin with the image and name of Augustus Caesar,
which came into the possession of Don Juan Rufo, Archbishop of
Cosenza; and since that was such a remarkable and extraordinary

26 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

circumstance, he sent the coin to the Pope—a fact tending to prove
that the Romans came over at that time to explore and colonize the
Indies.

63. The great majority of the Indians kept, followed, and observed
the customs, rites, and ceremonies of the Hebrews; accordingly in
all the provinces of those countries they had priests and diviners
consecrated to the worship of their false gods and to the service of
the temples, and these priests were conscientious observers of their
vain and false religion. In New Spain there was a High Priest and
various lesser priests, who were anointed with a certain liquid like
balsam or liquidambar, mixed with the blood of children whom they
circumcised. These false priests wore their hair long like the Naza-
renes, and in almost everything they copied the priests of the Old
Law ; just as they offered animals in sacrifice, so the Indians offered
them also; and just as the Hebrews of the Ten Tribes sacrificed chil-
dren (as is clear from II Kings, chapter XVII, and many other pas-
sages of Holy Writ, which I omit citing in order to avoid prolixity),
so the Indians, descendants of the Ten Tribes, sacrificed them also.
Besides this, misled and instigated by the Devil, they offered cruel
human sacrifices, as is described in all the histories of the Indies, and
as is well known to us all who have traveled there.

64. God commanded Abraham (as is affirmed in chapter XVII
of Genesis) that boys 8 days old should be circumcised; the same
custom is followed by most of the Indians of New Spain, Yucatan,
Cozumel, and other regions, and the Guaicurus of Paraguay: the
Moors also are circumcised, since that miscreant Mohammed took
over the custom from the Hebrews. Consequently the Indians must
have adopted it from the Hebrews, from whom they are sprung.

65. God commanded Moses (Leviticus, chapter VI) that there
should always be a fire burning before the altar, without fail; the
same rite was observed by the Mexican Indians and other tribes in
New Spain, and by the Peruvian Indians in the temples of the Sun,
and other shrines (guacas). Other laws, rites, and ceremonies from
Leviticus, Deuteronomy, and the Decalogue, observed by the Hebrews,
were found among the Indians, which for brevity’s sake I omit.

CHAPTER XII

How the Indians Resembled the Hebrews in Their Burial Usages,
and in Other Matters.

66. The Hebrews were accustomed to have their burial places in
the fields and on the hillsides outside their towns, and buried their

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 27

dead with part of the riches which they possessed. Aaron (as is
stated in chapter XX of Numbers) was buried on Mount Hor, Joshua
on Mount Ephraim, and in like manner all the others. King David,
who died in the year 2931 after the Creation, 477 after the children
of Israel left Egypt, and 1036 B.C., was laid in his sepulchre on the
mount by his son Solomon with great wealth of gold, jewels, and
precious stones of inestimable value; these were utilized by Duke
and High Priest Hyrcanus, son of Simon Maccabeus, in the year of
the Creation 3835, 904 years after the death of blessed King David;
since he was in great need, as is told by Josephus in his “Antiquities,”
he took from the tomb 3,000 talents of gold to finance the war against
his enemies and to meet other needs; and even Herod, inflamed and
made covetous by the report of the riches existing in the tomb of
the sainted Prophet King, attempted the same exploit, being miracu-
lously frightened away and threatened by an angel. The blessed
King David died 1,036 years before the birth of Christ our Lord,
and with all the passage of time since his death, his tomb was still
standing, as St. Peter states in chapter II of the Acts of the Apostles,
“his sepulchre is with us unto this day”; and St. Jerome says that it
lasted till the time of the Emperor Hadrian, who began reigning in
A.D. 117; at which time he says that through its great age, it collapsed.

67. Zosimus says that in the days of the Emperor Honorius there
was discovered the body of the blessed Prophet Jeremiah, and at his
feet a child with a crown and shoes of gold, and robes of inestimable
value. And the tomb of Christ our Lord stood outside the city in
the plain beside Mount Calvary, as is stated by St. Paul in Hebrews,
chapter XIII, and the blessed Evangelists. So that it was a very
common practice among the Hebrews to have their tombs in the open
country and to bury their dead there with most of their valuables
and precious jewels.

68. The same custom was observed by the Indians over all the
Indies, doubtless learned from the Hebrews from whom they are
descended ; both in New Spain and in the New Kingdom of Granada
they buried their dead with all their wealth of gold and precious
stones, and at the same time, by inspiration of the Devil, they buried,
along with the bodies of the chiefs, their most beloved wives, and
other persons, to keep them company, as is fully described by all
writers on the Indies.

69. On the plains of Peru they built sumptuous guacas or tombs,
on which they centered all their happiness and their solicitude, plan-
ning to be buried in them with all their riches, etc., as is recounted
by the historians; and at the present day one can see the ruins of

28 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

these superb constructions, and from many of them the Spaniards
have derived great riches; in one case, in the valley of Trujillo in
Peru, the so-called Shrine of the Sun, huge and uncouth, they told
me when I was in that kingdom that merely the 20 percent tax accru-
ing to His Majesty amounted to 85,000 pesos. Others were rifled
at Chimocapac, near Trujillo, and in many other sections of that king-
dom, and much wealth has been taken out of them; and I have seen
many vagabonds hunting for guacas in their eagerness for the wealth
stored up in them; those of Cuzco were very famous. Furthermore,
throughout the whole Peruvian Sierra the open country is full of
tombs shaped like turrets, which even today are full of skulls and
bodies of those heathen, dried up and mummified by the uniform
climate and thin air; I myself have seen both, and this fact will be
attested by all who have traveled in those kingdoms. So this custom
of the Indians was learned and inherited from the Hebrews from
whom they are descended ; and the same practice is also observed by
the Moors, who, like the Indians, bury some of their wealth, with
meat and drink for the journey; their false prophet Mohammed
adopted all this from the Hebrews.

70. In addition to the foregoing, one finds among the Indians over
that wide territory many Hebrew words, with the same pronuncia-
tion and meaning as among the Hebrews. In New Spain, in the
Province of Zapotitlan called of the Suchitepéquez, 36 leagues from
Guatemala, the Indians designate a language which is intelligible by
vinac, which is pronounced like the Hebrew word meaning intelli-
gence. There are many other similar cases in those provinces, while
in those of Peru some of the wives of the Inca kings were named
Anna, which is a Hebrew name and means gracious; and the wife
of King Pachacuti Yupangui was named Anna Huacha Cuyac, gra-
cious lover of the poor. The tribe of the Puruaes near Riobamba, and
the Indians of Otaval6 and other provinces of the district of Quito,
say abbd for father, which is a Syriac word adopted by the Hebrews
through having lived long among the Syrians. There are countless
other Hebrew words which I do not mention, to avoid diffuseness,
which indicate with certainty the origin of the Indians from the
Ten Tribes.

71. And it is not surprising or disconcerting that the Indians,
being so remote and isolated in the New World from any commerce
and intercourse with the Hebrews, should have grown forgetful and
lost the observance of the Law and divine worship, the use of letters
and the other good habits which their ancestors had learned from
their education and good doctrine. Since all that was lacking in those

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 29

distant and remote regions, they became remiss in all that is good (not
without God’s permission) and went from bad to worse, forgetful
of their Creator; the long passage of time aided in this, and it was
no new thing for them to be ungrateful and idolatrous ; even when
God was showing them mercy and working miracles to their benefit,
taking them out of Egypt from the tyranny of Pharaoh and his
Egyptians, on whom he inflicted chastisements and plagues for the
benefit of the Hebrews, and when He made a way for them to pass
through the Red Sea, and other countless mercies which He showed
them, as is told in the books of Exodus, Leviticus, Deuteronomy,
and elsewhere—even then they showed boundless ingratitude, they
committed sins, abominations, and idolatries; and yet, besides the
favors they received, they had prophets who lectured and upbraided
them, threatening them with the punishments which came upon them
when they were conquered, crushed, and taken captive by foreign
kings. That being the case with those who possessed preachers and
prophets, the ones who crossed to the Indies without them forgot and
lost what good they knew and were left with what was bad in their
harvest, abandoning themselves to idolatry and other abominations.
Furthermore, they are by nature impassive, sly, apprehensive, shrewd,
untruthful, formalistic, and superstitious, so that in everything, traits
of character as well, they resemble.the Hebrews, and most copy them
in their dress—a cloak and shirt—which is that of Judges, chap-
ter XIV, the tunic and shirt which Samson offered on a wager ; and
to prove complete similarity, they wear for shoes a kind of sandals
which they call ojotas; which confirms all the more my thesis, that
the Indians are derived from the Hebrews. And since there is a
countless diversity of Indian languages in both kingdoms, exceeding
50,000, since they have become confused one with another, and new
languages of special import have been invented and adopted, I shall
say something about them in the following chapters.

CHAPTER XIII

Of the Confusion and Diversity of Languages Existing in the
Indies.

72. The members of the Ten Tribes, passing through various
nations (on their expedition to the Indies), had of necessity to learn
their languages in order to converse with them and so mixed their
vocabulary, as is seen and recognized in many languages all over the
world. The very learned Bishop of Avila, otherwise known as EI
Tostado, in commenting on Genesis, chapter XI, paragraph 2, states

30 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

that after the confusion, of tongues, the original holy language was
called Hebrew, since it had been preserved by Eber; and later on it
did not persist in all the children of Israel, but only in those in direct
descent, like Peleg and Reu, and not in all the sons of Abraham, but
only in Isaac, and after Isaac, not in Esau but only in Jacob, and
from Jacob to the Ten Tribes descended from his sons. At that time
the Hebrew language was complete and perfect, which it is not today,
for only the words which are written in the Law have come down
unchanged, and not the rest; for since the sons of Jacob and their
descendants who were born in Egypt, lived among the Egyptians and
other nationalities, they adopted many of their words and kept mix-
ing them in with their own, which led to the introduction and inven-
tion of various different languages.

73. In the same way in Spain, since at different times so many
diverse nationalities have governed there, the original natural lan-
guage was corrupted and disappeared, so that at present it is not what
it was in the beginning, for in our Castilian speech we have words
from the Gothic, the Latin, the Romance, the Arabic, etc., in conse-
quence of their rule over Spain ; this is so generally and widely known
that I discuss it no further, to avoid diffuseness. In addition, the
diversity of the nationalities which entered Spain at different epochs,
occasioned a diversity of tongues, e.g., Basque, Valencian, Catalan,
Portuguese, Galician, and others still different, mutually unintelligible,
which is remarkably surprising in so tiny a corner of the world as
Spain. Our Castilian language of today differs greatly from that
spoken a century ago, in that we have adopted and use currently many
words from other nations with which we have intercourse, so that
Spanish serves very generally as a means of intercommunication all
over the world among different nations which have dealings with
each other.

74, The same thing happened in the Indies with the first settlers
there, members of the Ten Tribes; they lost their language, or at
least adulterated it with words imported from the various nationalities
through whom they passed ; the invention of man helped in this, and
alongside it, the tricks and schemes of the Devil, to cause greater
confusion and keep them from mutual understanding, and thus hold
them in blindness and deceit ; and in the course of time the confusion
increased so materially with this diversity of tongues over so wide-
spread and extensive a territory, that their number surpasses 50,000.
And to give some comprehension of them, I will cite some selected

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 31

words of some of them, with their meanings, and tell in what provinces
and kingdoms they belong.

75. By divine permission and righteous judgment of God, the
Devil kept those blind tribes deceitfully in slavery under his tyran-
nical sway; and with their multitude of different languages, they
lived like savages and barbarians for long centuries, worshiping idols,
without God, law, or reason. They worshiped mountains, cliffs,
trees, rivers, animals, serpents, and other objects as unreasonable
and barbarous; they lived like beasts of the field, not to be distin-
guished from unreasoning brutes, staying out in the open like wild
animals, without houses or cultivation of the fields, until in the year
1030 there arose in the Kingdoms of Peru one of those savages
whom Heaven had endowed with unusual intelligence, Mango Capac
by name, from whom are descended the Incas, the kings who conquered
and governed that empire.

76. This Mango Capac founded the city of Cuzco at the date men-
tioned, capital and imperial court of those kingdoms ; deceiving those
savages with his claim to be child of the Sun, by the shrewdness of
his character, the friendliness of his bearing, and the excellence of
his reasoning, he won over those wild creatures to a better manner
of life, rescuing them from their animal existence in the fields and
on the hills. He taught them how to build houses, how to plant and
cultivate their land, and how to lead a different life more in harmony
with reason and the law of Nature; he continued to bring them
under allegiance to him, increasing his authority every day and win-
ning over new adherents ; at the same time he taught his own language
to those whom he annexed. This was continued by his sons and suc-
cessors for the period of over 500 years of their reign and administra-
tion of that far-flung monarchy; all the provinces and nations which
they conquered formed a bloc of over 1,300 leagues from N. to S.,
beginning with Pasto, which lies on the northern frontier, down as
far as the Rio de Maule on the S., in the Kingdom of Chile, which
they adopted as a boundary on that side, and the Kingdom of Tucu-
man on the E. to a point over 400 leagues from Cuzco; they kept
introducing their language into all those nations, to make themselves
understood to the Indians living in them. For as they kept winning
them over and subduing them, they commanded and ordained that
the sons of the ruling class and of the caciques should come to Cuzco
and grow up in the imperial court, both for the purpose of using
them as hostages to hold the conquered territory securely under their
sway, and to have them learn the language of the court and its laws,

32 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

rites, and customs. In this way they introduced over those widespread
realms the lingua franca of the Incas, the language called Quichua,
although they had other special mother tongues, as will be stated in
the following chapter.

CHAPTER XIV

Some Notes with Regard to the Quichua, Aymara, and Other
Languages of Those Kingdoms of the Districts of Peru, Chile, the
New Kingdom of Granada, and the Rio de la Plata.

77. Seeing that in the preceding chapters I have discussed the con-
fusion of tongues in the Tower of Babel (caused by the ingratitude
and sins of mankind) and the origin of the first settlers in the Indies,
and that after this first confusion of tongues there followed numerous
others, which kept increasing, as we have seen and learned by experi-
ence, especially in the regions of the New World, I shall now set
down some of the most important and frequently occurring words,
with an explanation of their meaning as clear and concise as I can
make it.

78. The Quichua language of Peru is the most widely spoken in
those kingdoms ; introduced by the Inca kings, as has been described,
it is very polished and sententious. They count as we do up to Io,
as follows: I, su; 2, iscai; 3, quinga; 4, tagua; 5, pixca; 6, socta;
7, canches; 8, pacalco; 9, ixcon; 10, chunga, or chunca, for in this
language there is no g, or letter so pronounced. What is your name?
imasuticanci? where are you from? imallacta canqui? may the Son
of God keep you, churi Dios huacaichassunqui; are you a baptized
Christian? Christiano bautizacachucanqui? who baptized you, where,
and how? pim baptizassurcanqui, muipim, y mahinam ?

79. And I would remark that, in order to express certain features
of Christian doctrine, they make use of our words after their fashion,
for they had no conception of them; e.g., for crossing one’s self:
In the sign of the Holy Cross, set us free from our enemies, O Lord
our God. In the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy
Ghost: Amen, Jesus—Santa Cruz pa unancharaicut, aucaici cuna-
manta, quispi chihuaict Dios apuicu. Yayap Churi, Spiritu sanc-
topsutimpi, Amen Iesus. The word for man is runa; father, yaya;
son, churi; mother, mama; sun, inti; moon, quiclla; Devil, supai;
cori, the stars; camayu is a generic term, like workman in our lan-
guage; e.g., to express shepherd, they say michi camayu; porter,
puncu camayu, and so on in all other occupations and callings. These
notes on the lingua franca (Lengua General) of Peru must suffice
if [ am to say something about the other languages.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 33

80. After the Quichua, the Aymara is one of the most widespread
and important in that kingdom; it is spoken in many provinces, over
an area of more than 400 leagues. In this language, when they make
the sign of the cross, they say: Sancta cruzana unancha pa laicu,
aucana cahata nanaca quispijta, nanacana Dios apuha. Padre auqui na,
Hijo yocansa, Espiritu santo, Spiritu sanctonsa sutipana, Amen lesus.
Have you offended anyone by word or deed? quisti haque aromampi,
lurana mampisa cacsichiritati? have you done justice in that in which
you had authority? cuna hucha tari pasina checati tari pirita, justicia
luriritati? The numerals are: 1, maya; 2, paya; 3, quima; and so on
up to 10, like Quichua. To express: to draw out a weapon, they
say: escama. This is also a polished language.

81. The language of the Kingdom of Chile has numerals after
our model: 1, quine; 2, epo; 3, quila; 4, meli; 5, quechu; 6, cayu;
7, rerga; 8, ailla; 9, pura; 10, mari; 200, epomari, mari mari mil.
What is your name? inepingueine? give me something to eat, man-
gache ; give me some water, quipalco ; give me some light, quipalquetal ;
give me some meat, quipalsoo—and so on with many other words.

82. The Guarani, who live on the banks of the great Rio de la
Plata and extend up into Brazil over other great provinces, say for
what is your name? maera erera? where do you come from? maéra
de retamé? give me some water, eruhi; give me some milk, erucambu
hues; give me some wine, erucambi; give me some bread, eru
embuyapé. Their system of counting goes up to 3, and not beyond;
I, peteilan ; 2, mocoi; 3, emboapug—and then immediately, to express
indefinite numbers, cobaerapicha.

83. The principal language spoken by the Indians of the New
Kingdom of Granada (although there are numberless other native
tongues) is the Muxca; e.g., Give me some bread, fun socd; give
me some water, xic soc6 ; give me some wood, xa zocd ; give me some
light, juta socd; give me some meat, chica socd. They call the
Spaniard Iuc, which means Lord; the Indian, Muzca; the Negro,
Xiu mugt; birds, chichagui; hen, caina; where were you? equacana?
come here, sompca ; adios, nacd; I have not, na puesa; wait, sabo.

84, In that same New Kingdom, in the district of Antioquia, the
Indians of the province in which is established the city of Caceres,
speak the Nutabé language. They call the Spaniard, Ai (and they
apply the same name to the Devil) ; old woman, guactt; old man,
tobé ; lightning, urichiquisi ; come here, noret6 ; go away, netd; water,
ni; light, quia; he is well, guare mé; I am well, si guarero; bread,
amiquia; night, tebuna; morning, machiqui; very early, macasa; |
am leaving for my home country, sine manascua; I am weak or ill,

4

34 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

fi apacudi; kettle, ur; glass or jar, tatasi; hen, otocar6; egg, tana;
come quick, necumurtu ; come on the run, necu murtiqui; the moon,
Eua; star, papa; salt, nacti; pepper, napa.

85. In the province where the city of Antioquia is established, the
Indians talk Catia, e.g.: light, quira; water, nira; give me, be; give
me some water, nira be; one’s own wife, amaju. These notes on the
languages mentioned refer to the Indians in those districts speci-
fied, belonging to the Secretariat of Peru, where there are countless
languages, beyond all power of human understanding to count and
describe them; such is the confusion caused by the enemy of the
human race among these peoples, to keep them in bondage to his
idolatries ; and although God said through Isaiah: “Because ye have
refused or rejected my word, ye shall have everlasting destruction,”
and although these words have reference to the Jews, who not merely
did not receive it, but were aggressors in the death of Christ, for
which act although earlier in the written Law they had been the
leading nationality in the world and the people chosen of God,
through the death of Christ and through not having accepted His
Divine Word, there have been fulfilled in them the words spoken
by the mouth of Isaiah and consequently they remain the lowest
and vilest people in the world, as is evident—nevertheless this does
not apply to the Indians descended from the Jews, since they lived
in countries so remote and widely separated as the Indies, for which
reason they were neither aggressors nor accessories in the death of
Christ ; and when the light of His Divine Word reached their terri-
tories, at once they admitted it and embraced it. And so, in view of
what had preceded, we must consider them as one of the noblest
peoples in the world, even though they were previously idolaters.

CHAPTER XV

Of Some Words in the Mexican Language and in Others of New
Spain and the Spanish Main Falling within the Secretariat of New
Spain.

86. The valiant Mexicans, after having ended the long journey
they had undertaken from Nauatlan, on recognizing the indications
given them by their false god Vizilipuztli for their settlement, in the
year 1202 founded their city in the midst of reeds and cattails; and
since they saw themselves intimidated and surrounded on every side
by powerful enemies, for their better defense against them and for
the expansion of their new city, they resolved to choose a king to
govern them in times of peace and defend them in war. So they

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 35

chose as their first king a grandson of the King of Culhuacan, son
of a Mexican prince; and once they had kings, they managed so well
that in a short time they emerged from their previous low estate and
overcame and subdued all their enemies, and made themselves so
powerful that their monarchy endured for 319 years, up to the year
1521, when the valiant and most Christian Don Fernando Cortés,
Marqués del Valle, took Mexico and conquered many kingdoms and
provinces, aided by Heaven, so that the Holy Gospel might be preached
in them as we see it preached in so many kingdoms and provinces.

87. I would state further that during this period of 319 years, the
duration of the Mexican monarchy, while the kings of Mexico kept
conquering and taking over into their empire the kingdoms, provinces,
and nationalities which they subdued, like the Incas of Peru they
introduced the Mexican language, ordaining and prescribing that all
should learn it. For this reason the sons of the lords and chieftains
flocked to their court, and thus the Mexican language spread over
that vast area more than 800 leagues in length, up to the extreme
limits of the Provinces of Honduras and Nicaragua in that direc-
tion, and over all New Spain. This is a lingua franca spoken over
all the kingdom, although in each province and tribe, and even in
each village, they speak their own special mother tongue; but the
Mexican language is so rich and polished that it ranks among the
best which are known in those parts.

88. Their numerals run like ours, as follows: I, ce; 2, ome; 3, yel;
4, nague; 5, maccuile; 6, chicuassen; 7, chicome; 8, chiquei; 9,
chinague ; 10, matlacte, and from there on the numbers increase like
ours; what is your name? tlemotoca? find something to eat, xictemo
tacuale; where do you come from? campatiguala? adios, Dios me
chichagua ; bring some bread, xicualica tlascuale, and other graceful
phrases, in which the language is very rich, but I omit further
mention in order to say something about the others.

89. In the Archdiocese of Mexico, slopes of the Sierra de
Mestitlan as far as the Sierra de Huaxteca, there is the Tepegua
Indian language, e.g.: you confessed last year, in cho alazalaguananta
inoachitinano ; we have confessed, alazalaguananta ; you have accom-
plished your penance, incho macaguata penitencia; priest, impayaga.
In the Otomi language, which is almost a lingua franca, they say:
where are you from? apaningO? give me some water, inde hé; hat,

puuchi; dish, manza; frogs’ eyes, acuxcuahi.

90. In the Diocese of Guatemala, passing along the King’s High-
way for 280 leagues from Mexico City, from one town to another,
there are 335 distinct native dialects, although the Mexican language

}

36 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

is spoken in every province. In the Mame language, spoken by the
tribe living near Verapaz next the Lacandones, they say: may God
keep you, Dios quique lente man; how are you? van petiguis? how
are you? van petete? Their numerals run as follows: 1, jun; 2, cabe;
3, Oj€; 4, caxi; 5, o€; they count no higher than that.

91. The Aché language, spoken by the Indians of Guatemala, has:
may God keep you, Dios cachagenta; may He go with you, gueta;
how are you? uspesala aguache? I am well, usjala; bring some bread,
tipe guai; bring some eggs, tipe sac mold; bring some water, tipe ya;
where are you from? aguehoc? They count as follows: I, jun; 2, cai;
3, Oji; 4, caxi; 5, 00; 6, guacaqui; 7, jucu; 8, guaxcaqui; 9, velchée;
10, laju, and from there on like us.

92. The Pipil language, on the Guatemalan coast in the Provinces
of Isquuintepeque and Guazacapan, has: mother, nagué; it is ordered,
pasultiqui; mouth, itenct; I will cut you in half, tineque nimis
tacujuta; I don’t want to, intenicnequi; the face, yayan; the tongue,
ichel. In the same district of Guatemala: bring something to eat,
chacan chulotiguic; salt, asan, and this word is general in all these
languages. The Cachiquel language has: bring a hen, tipejun act;
bring some bread, tipelec ; bring some water, tipeha ; bring some wood,
tipesi. In addition to the above, there are countless other languages
among these tribes, so that it is impossible to try to describe them
or reduce them to order; the preceding will have to suffice, in order
to say something about other languages spoken on the Spanish Main,
in the following chapter.

CHAPTER XVI

Of Various Other Languages Spoken on the Spanish Main, in the
Dioceses of Caracas and of Puerto Rico, Belonging to the Secretariat
of New Spain.

93. Besides what has been stated in the foregoing chapters for the
comprehension of the confusion existing among those blind and
heathen nations, with the diversity of such different languages as
they spoke—a device of the Devil to keep them in subjection and
enslavement to his tyrannical sway, until God in His divine mercy
was moved to rescue them from it and to cause the light of His Holy
Gospel to shine upon them—I shall make some brief notes regarding
the type of the languages and dialects they spoke.

94, The Caraca language has: what is your name? atiyeseti? where
are you going, Indian? asauter itoto? companion, emiaro; friend,
guanter; I am very fond of you, apunesasa; give me some light,

|

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 377

gapoto onque; give me some water, tuna onque ; give me some bread,
arepa onque ; thus they always set the verb first. Their numerals run
as follows: I, toi; 2, asaque; 3, asergau; 4, ispe; 5, petpe; 6,
asergauesne ; 7, petpesne; 8, ispesne; 9, emiateméré; 10, asaqueemi,
or apona, meaning both hands ; to express 20, they say ispe emiapona,
meaning four times my hands; let’s go, maicomd; master, iesem;
and thus this language continues.

95. The Indian tribe of the island of Trinidad, Nepuya by name,
and those of the Province of Guiana, speak practically the same lan-
guage, e.g.: I tell you, amuere; give me something to eat, charey-
erepare; wait, tamacare; there isn’t any, ipura mana; you lie,
acayaremate ; I am telling the truth, quanene ; I am dying of hunger,
coropiase ; make haste, yomeyomese ; I am doing my best, tamacare-
seapone ; light, guapot. The Aruaca tribe, which lives round about
the mouths of the Orinoco, has: quick! jurace; come here, vacuna;
cassava or bread, cale; to the house, vadahabo; to the road, cayure;
to the light, iquigi; to the sky, casacomuin ; to the wind, aguadule ; to
the water, guine; to the thunder, curacale. Their numerals run as
follows: 1, abarta; 2, viama; 3, viauite; 4, cabuin; 5, abadacabo;
their reckoning does not go beyond 5; to express 10, they say
viamadacabo, i.e., the two numerals 2 and 5, and they follow this
system for higher numerals.

96. The Carib tribe Garina who live at the mouths of the River
Orinoco, have: kill, sipoca; give me something to eat, yareyare
aguachemé; I already understand you, to; I am glad you understood
me, tare tO; come here, paguanareto; I am a friend of Christians,
apapurato ; companion, pabonare; light, guato; to the knife, maria;
to the house, aute.

97. The Guayanes, Nepuyos, Guayqueries, Cumanagotos have
guapot for light; the Chaguanes and Tibitibes, fe. The Ajaguas
have: wait, mata; to the water, une. There are countless other tribes
as far as the Maranon and inland, living as savages in blind heathen-
dom, and speaking more than 50,000 different languages ; those men-
tioned above are of tribes which have been Christianized and brought
to the knowledge of our faith. This brief sketch must suffice as an
account of the confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel, the origin
and descent of the Indians, and the languages just described with an
explanation of words and meanings; thus the reader will have a bit
of everything for his entertainment; now we must undertake the
description of the Indies, beginning with the island of Hispaniola,
largest of the Windward Islands, the first one conquered and colo-

38 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

nized and the home of the first Christians in the Indies; for it was
from there, as from their mother, that they went out and conquered
all the others and preached the Holy Gospel in them. It appears there-
fore that it was the City of Refuge of all the explorers and mis-
sionaries of that New World, and so I shall begin with a description
of Hispaniola as both the womb and the religious center of the Indies,
so as to continue with greater clearness and sharpness of outline in
the following book.

- Boox II

Of the District of the Circuit Court of the Island of Hispaniola
(Espafiola), in Which Is Given a Description of That Island and
the Others, Together with All the Provinces within Its Jurisdiction ;
the Characteristics of Its Territories and Their Products; the Rites
and Customs of the Indians; the Spanish Cities and Towns Estab-
lished in Them; the Governorships and Other Offices to Which His
Majesty Appoints in Them, as also the Religious Establishments
and Other Matters Worthy of Record; All This Is Described in the
Books of This Part I.

CHAPTER [|

Of the Island of Hispaniola, Its Size and Characteristics, and
When It Was Discovered by Christopher Columbus.

98. The island of Hispaniola, which the Indians called Haiti, mean-
ing rugged country, and which they also called Quisqueya, meaning
large country, was discovered by Christopher Columbus in the year
1492, on Thursday, October 11. He called it Espafiola, and it has
kept this name to the present day. From E. to W. it is 150 leagues
long; its breadth from N. to S. varies from 40 to 60 leagues; and
its circuit is over 400, as is stated in the admirable description of
Sr, D2 Juan de Solorzano in his “De ’Indiarum Jure,” folio 64,
book I, chapter VI, No. 10. At the time of its discovery it contained
1,800,000 Indians, not counting old people, women, and children;
they were the first Christians in the Indies; today there is not one
Indian in all the island; it was a just judgment of God. As for the
manner in which they were consumed and wasted away, it is de-
scribed in Gomara, folio 47, and other historians.

99. The climate of this island is warm and damp; it is summer
all the time; the days and nights are of equal length, since it is
within the Tropics; it is fertile and rich in produce. The regular or
everyday bread eaten on the island is cassava, made of a root called
yucca, like rutabagas. To make the bread or cassava, they grate the
yucca and squeeze out its juice, which is deadly poison, although
when cooked it is the chief food of the Indies. From the grated
yucca they make cakes as large as small shields, light in color and
texture ; it is the everyday bread of this island and the others and of

39

40 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

many other sections in the hot country of the Spanish Main. There
used to be also an abundance of Indian corn, which is the wheat of
the Indies; they made their wine for drinking from yucca and from
Indian corn, and the Indians do so today, as well as from other fruits
and roots of which there is abundance on the island. As for wheat
and other Spanish products, they neither existed here nor do they
grow, for the soil is too rich, although up in the sierras and other
temperate parts of the island they would grow well. They have wild
grapes in quantity, though they did not know how to make wine
from them.

100. They have most of the kinds of fruit that grow in the Indies,
such as various sorts of plantains (bananas), which are a great help
for every occasion and need, since they ripen the whole year round ;
mammees, which are like large quinces, but with the coloring and
flavor of peaches ; the pineapple is a delicious fruit, growing on plants
like thistles ; the alligator pear (aguacate) is a very delicious fruit;
there are various sorts of guavas, wild and cultivated, which look
like pears; there are also coco-plums and other kinds of fruit, of
which we shall describe the characteristics and the appearance in due
season.

101. Over all the island there is abundance of game—wild pigeons
and ringdoves, turtledoves of several species, guinea hens, pheasants,
paujies, turkeys, and other game birds. In the rivers there is abun-
dance of delicious fish of various sorts. They have tough and valu-
able timber, both for shipbuilding and for other uses, and numerous
kinds of fruits, roots, and herbs of great efficacy in all sorts of dis-
eases; they gather quantities of excellent cassia.

102. The island contains mines very rich in gold of the highest
grade, like those of Cibao, and others, from which in early days
great wealth was derived; the same is true of the rivers, in which,
among numerous valuable nuggets, an Indian woman came upon
one which weighed 3,300 castellanos, as is related by Gomara,
folio 45. There are mines of silver, copper, cobalt (azul; lapis
lazuli?) and other minerals, but for lack of labor the mines are not
exploited nor the rivers used for washing ore, as was done at the
start when there were natives. Consequently through depopulation
no benefit is derived from all this wealth; indeed, the mountain
ranges of this island are paved with minerals and veins of gold,
silver, and other metals.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 4I

CHAPTER II

Of the City of Santo Domingo and the Circuit Court Located
There, and Its District.

103. The city of Santo Domingo is the principal one on the island
of Hispaniola, and the whole island is named after it. It is the first
and the oldest of all the Indies. It was founded by Bartolomé Coldn,
brother of Christopher Columbus, Permanent Admiral of the Indies.
He called the city Santo Domingo because he founded it on Sunday,
feast day of the glorious Patriarch St. Dominick, and his father’s
name was Domingo also, as is stated by Gomara, folio 48. With this
city there began the preaching of the Gospel over all that New
World. It was founded in the year 1494, 2 years after the discovery
of the island, on the banks of the Rio Ozama, at 19° N. Afterward
Commander Nicholas de Ovando, when he came to the island as
Governor in 1502, moved the site to where the city now stands, on
the banks of the same Rio Ozama at a sightly spot. It has a famous
harbor, for the river is deep, so that vessels, no matter how large,
can tie up alongside or with bow to the shore, and nothing more
than a gangway is needed to get on or off. After the discovery of
the island and the establishment of Santo Domingo, the first fleets
or small armadas which sailed from Seville with merchandise, Colum-
bus having died, were under the charge of Gen. Pedro de Cifontes, a
noble aristocrat of Seville. After making a number of voyages, he
died in Santo Domingo and is buried there; and for his services the
IXmperor graciously bestowed upon Hernando de Cifontes, his son,
the post of Paymaster of Santa Marta; and it was from there that
he went as Captain in his career to Peru, against the usurper Fran-
cisco Hernandez Jiron, as will be told in due season.

104. The city counts 600 Spanish residents, among them many
noblemen and people of distinction, with numerous merchants and
traders, since the city and harbor are frequented by ships from Spain
and other parts of the Indies, coming with merchandise in exchange
for the products of the country, abundant as a result of its fertility.
Quantities of sugar are produced in the numerous sugar milJs over
the island; they grow ginger, tobacco, balsam, cassia, brazilwood,
guaiacum, and other valuable products. They have countless stock
ranches, and every year the ships leave loaded with livestock as well
as with hides and other exports; they could ship much more if boats
were sent for them, and the country would be better off for it. There
are in the island for the stock ranches and work on the other planta-

42 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tions, over 4,000 slaves belonging to the residents of Santo Domingo ;
there are many free mulattoes.

105. The Admiral Christopher Columbus was Governor of the
island till the year 1499. Francisco de Bobadilla followed him as
Governor, and in consequence of charges made against him, sent
him in chains to Spain. Bobadilla governed 3 years; in 1502 he was
succeeded by Commander Nicholas de Ovando, who governed the
country in most Christian fashion for 7 years, up to 1509, and moved
the city to where it now stands, as has been said. He was followed
as Governor by the Admiral of the Indies, Don Diego Colon, son of
Christopher Columbus, who governed for 7 years, till 1516; then as
a result of charges brought against him, he went to Spain, and in his
place the Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo, Don Fray Francisco
Ximénez de Cisneros, ruler of Spain after the death of King Don
Fernando the Catholic and in the absence of the Emperor Charles V
his grandson, sent over as Governors Fray Luis de Figueroa, Prior
of La Mejorada; Fray Alonso de Santo Domingo, Prior of San
Juan de Ortega; and Fray Bernardino Manzanedo, all Hieronymites.
They governed the island some 3 years, and after their arrival there
was established a Circuit Court (Audiencia) in the city of Santo
Domingo; this was the first in the Indies. The first Justices were
Marcelo de Villalobos, who founded the city of the island of Mar-
garita; Juan Ortiz de Matienzo; Lucas Vazquez, who went to Cuba
and Vera Cruz to keep Diego Velazquez and Panfilo de Narvaez
from interfering with Fernando Cortés in the great exploring expe-
dition he was conducting ; and Cristébal Lebron; later, the President
of the Chancery was Don Sebastian Ramirez de Fuenleal, who held
the same post in Mexico.

106. The Court has a President, 4 Justices, an Attorney (Fiscal),
Secretaries and the other officials needed for its wide jurisdiction ;
from E. to W., it covers over 550 leagues, and over 300 N. and S.;
it comprises 8 State Governments (Gobiernos), 1 Alcaldia Mayor,
1 Archdiocese, 3 Dioceses and 2 Abbacies, plus over 100 other islands
included in the district. The State Governments are those of Puerto
Rico, Santiago de Cuba and Havana, Florida, Venezuela, Cumana,
Margarita, Guiana, and that of the island of Jamaica, which is under
the Duke of Veragua. The Alcaldia Mayor is that of the Tierra
Adentro (Inland), plus part of the State of Santa Marta, since the
whole valley of the Rio de la Hacha belongs to it. The Prelacies are
the Archdiocese of Santo Domingo, the Dioceses of Puerto Rico,
Cuba, and Caracas, with the Abbacies of Jamaica and Guiana. This
covers the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court. In addition, His Majesty

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 43

appoints in this district 15 Royal Officials; of these, 2 are the Pay-
master (Contador) and the Treasurer of this city of Santo Domingo ;
the others are the Paymasters and Treasurers of Puerto Rico,
Havana, Florida, Venezuela, Cumana, and Margarita, and the Trea-
surer of Rio de la Hacha.

CuapTer IV (!)

Continuing the Description of the City of Santo Domingo and
the Court District on the Ecclesiastical Side, and of the Cities and
Towns Established on This Island.

107. This city of Santo Domingo has a garrison of 200 Spaniards,
with a fort, on whose platforms (and in another small fort) there
are 40 pieces of artillery for the protection and defense of the harbor
and the city, which contains, besides the residents and the soldiers, a
great number of Negro and mulatto servants; and inland on the
island, engaged in the care of the livestock and in service on the
plantations, in the sugar mills, and in handling produce, there are
over 4,000 Negroes and mulattoes, both free and slaves, dependent
on residents of the city. The latter has a broad and noble situation ;
the whole fabric of its architecture is substantial and sightly. Its
church is the Archiepiscopal Metropolitan Cathedral, Primate of the
Indies, mother of all those existing in them; it was from here that
they set forth on all their conquests and discoveries ; it was the sta-
tion from which the Gospel was preached and spread over all those
remote and far-flung territories of New Spain and Peru, with all
their dependencies ; from which, by the goodness of God, so many
savage and heathen nations have been converted and have come to
the knowledge of His Most Holy Name. There are Dominican,
Franciscan, and Mercedarian convents; two very strict nunneries;
a hospital for the indigent sick; a college of university type, where
they lecture and teach the sciences to the young men of the country ;
and other churches and pilgrimage shrines.

108. In the early days of discovery, the island, with its great size
and fertility, was thickly settled with cities and towns with Spanish
residents. Those that are left today are: the village of Tucui, 18
leagues from Santo Domingo; Concepcion de la Vega, 25 leagues ©
out, where there came to light that most precious relic of the Indies,
a most holy cross; the city of Santiago de los Caballeros, 30 leagues
from Santo Domingo, and built on the banks of the River Yaque;
here resides an Alcalde Mayor, entitled “Of the Inland,” and ap-
pointed by His Majesty in consultation with his Royal Council.

44 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

109. The town of San Antonio de Monte de Plata is 10 leagues
away, and the town of Higiiey is 30; this is the home of Our Lady of
High Grace (Alta Gracia), Patroness of the island; Our Lady of
Holy Waters (Aguas Santas) is 10 leagues away. The other locali-
ties existing on the northern coast of the island were abandoned
under the presidency of Don Antonio Osorio, as a consequence of
raids by enemies and for other reasons which made it seem desirable.

110. The city of Santo Domingo should be very wealthy and im-
portant, and the whole island with it, thanks to the richness of its
soil and its animal and vegetable products, and also to the excellent
harbor it possesses, visited by many ships from Spain bringing in
varied merchandise and exporting local products; but since it is so
deserted and abandoned, without the defense of a navy to protect
its coasts, all the ships arriving loaded with merchandise, run seri-
ous risks from enemy freebooters, lying in wait in their inlets or
pirate rendezvous to plunder them when they start up the Saona;
this has happened to numerous ships that they have plundered, leav-
ing the residents of Santo Domingo, business men and shipowners,
impoverished and ruined, since there is no protection and the ships
arrive defenseless.

111. This happened, e.g., in the year 1626 to Captains Juan de
Paternina and Juan Vazquez; they had served His Majesty for
many years; in the previous year, 1625, Capt. Juan Vazquez had
fought with two Dutch vessels and routed them, and had sunk a
Turkish galleon with 280 Turks; in this year 1626 the ship Candelaria
left port, belonging to Capt. Domingo de Ztfiga, with Pedro
Enriquez de Almeida and Gil Lopez de Almeida, merchant, who
owned a share in the ship Capitana, which was of more than goo
tons burthen; Almeida was chosen General, and the Candelaria,
Admiral’s vessel, with Capt. Juan de Paternina as Master, and ac-
companying him, Capt. Juan Vazquez and Francisco Vazquez his
brother. In the Saona on Good Friday morning they were attacked
by three Dutch Navy vessels, which began firing on our ships; Pedro
Enriquez’ Capitana let go a broadside from its nine cannon on the
enemy, and immediately spread sail and fled. It is said by those who
were present that the reason was protests from the Portuguese Gil
Lopez, and Andrés Sanchez his brother-in-law who was acting as
Master, and another Portuguese Diego Méndez, and the pilot Fran-
cisco Rodriguez ; the sailors did not want to hoist sail but wanted to
aid their companions ; however, the cowardly sentiments of the ship’s
staff prevailed, and they turned tail, with great inhumanity and
cowardice, abandoning their Admiral vessel, saying that theirs was

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 45

not a King’s ship, and was under no obligation to fight. So they left
the flagship surrounded by foes; her men defended themselves with
great courage against the enemy until a ball killed Captain Paternina,
Master of the vessel.

112. Thereupon Capt. Juan Vazquez went about stimulating the
men who were left and doing great damage to the enemy, though
receiving more at their hands, for they had her surrounded on every
side; but they sent one enemy ship to the bottom and put a cannon
shot into another at the water line, so that she had to drop out and go
to pumping. At this point Capt. Juan Vazquez received a musket
shot in the kidneys; although the wound was mortal, he tied it up
with a towel and kept on fighting and spurring on the few who
remained, until at midnight he died without witnessing defeat, hav-
ing had the ship run up on some rocks so that the enemy should get
no benefit from her or her cargo. As for his brother who was fight-
ing in emulation with him, a ball took off his arm, and another lost
both legs, both dying in the way just described, as well as many
others whom I forbear mentioning lest I stir up grief, nor do I speak
of the wounded; all this was due to the flight of the flagship, and
heed should be given, in the designation of men to posts at sea, to
the question whether they are worthy of them, since the enemy ad-
mitted that if the Capitana had made up to them together with the
flagship, they would not have dared to fight, since the flagship, a
smaller vessel, had done them so much damage and killed many of
their men.

113. The lack of a naval force for this island cost these poor
fellows their lives and their property; every day the ships leaving
there run the risk of being boldly plundered and scuttled like the
Candelaria. This would be obviated by the authorization of the naval
force which Don Luis Garabito de Aguilar, resident of Santo
Domingo, proposes to raise with the funds he offers; not merely
would this put an end to the losses, but the enemy freebooters would
flee and stop their piracy.

CHAPTER V (!)

Of the Island of Puerto Rico, and the City Established There,
Capital of That Diocese.

114, The first country in the Indies settled by Spaniards, which
lies nearest Spain, and the Guadelupe Islands, is the island of San
Juan de Puerto Rico, which the Indians call Boriquén. It lies NW.
of the islands mentioned, at 18° N.; it is about 50 leagues long and

46 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

20 across. Its climate is warm and healthful. It was discovered by
that first matchless Admiral and Perpetual Viceroy Christopher
Columbus, who gave His Majesty so many kingdoms, and Heaven
so many souls; thanks to his courage, the Holy Gospel has been
preached over all those far-flung territories. He discovered Puerto
Rico on the second voyage which he made.

115. In the year 1509 there arrived to take possession of it, Juan
Ponce de Leon, a nobleman of Seville, with orders and authority
from Commander Nicholas de Ovando, Governor of Hispaniola; he
was actuated by news of the wealth of gold, silver, and other valu-
ables to be found on the island. He brought along in his company
Capt. Juan Montes, who aided him in subduing the island and found-
ing the city of Puerto Rico, and then settled there, the Commander
making him a grant of Indians, inherited by his daughter Elvira de
Montes, who married Juan de Torres, likewise a pioneer settler of
the island and city. He was succeeded by his son Juan de Torres
Montes, who rose through his courage to be Captain and served in
many campaigns in the district of Panama, and on other occasions
against the Negro Cimarrons (fugitives) and the freebooters; he
was Captain General of the city and port of Nombre de Dids, serv-
ing always at his own expense, until, after undergoing many trials,
he came to the city of Seville and retired; he left his home and prop-
erty there to his son, Don Juan de Torres Montes. There were in
the island when he took it over, more than 600,000 Indians, not count-
ing women and children; of all that number at the present day only
the memory remains. He started subduing the island, and for the
better attainment of his ambition, he established and colonized on
the N. coast, where there is a famous harbor, safe and deep, in the
following year 1510, a city which he called San Juan, from the name
of his saint’s day, and he added the surname Rico (Noble) for the
excellence of its harbor; so both island and city keep the name of
San Juan de Puerto Rico. It lies at a distance of 90 leagues from
the city of Santo Domingo, seat of the Circuit Court ; the two islands
are from 15 to 20 leagues apart.

116. When Commander Juan Ponce de Leon began his conquest
of the island and his settlement of the city, he collected a large amount
of gold, of which there is abundance on the island, and other valu-
ables which the Indians gathered and brought in to him; of the
quantity existing in the mines it possesses, and in the rivers, none is
extracted by mining or panning today, for lack of labor. The land is
fertile and bears abundantly, the climate being favorable; there are
high mountains, good tough timber for shipbuilding, and great abun-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 47

dance of guaiacum, called palo santo, since it is highly medicinal and
of value for the French pox and other maladies ; it has other valuable
kinds of wood, common to the Windward Islands.

117. This island contains the above-mentioned city of San Juan
de Puerto Rico, which will count 300 Spanish residents ; there is in
it a Cathedral with Bishop and Prebendaries who serve it and reside
there ; a Dominican convent and shrines of St. Anne; La Concepcion
is a hospital where the indigent sick are cared for, and for the soldiers
there is the Hospital of San Nicolas. Outside the city stand the
shrines of San Sebastian and Santa Barbara, where one goes to
watch the ships come in and enjoy the fresh breeze which usually
prevails in that spot which overlooks the ocean and where the ships
fire a salute before entering the harbor, beside the sea; under the
fortress lies the shrine of Santa Catalina.

118. His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of
the Indies, appoints a Governor in this island and city for its proper
administration, with title of Captain General. It possesses an excel-
lent fort in the Morro, at the harbor entrance, with 60 pieces of
artillery, mostly of bronze. There are in this fort 300 Spanish soldiers
as a garrison, plus artillerymen, and two companies with their cap-
tains, provided by His Majesty; and there are two more of natives
of the city and the island, whose captains are appointed by the Gover-
nor. Furthermore three other Spanish settlements have been estab-
lished on the coast, viz, Arecibo and Guadianilla on the E. side of
the island, and Coamo on the W., in all of which there are likewise
Negroes and free mulattoes, of much importance for the stock
ranches and other farming establishments.

119. The chief foodstuffs of this tsland are Indian corn and cas-
sava, which is their ordinary bread, made from yucca, which is a
bush or small shrub. It grows on poles or stakes, and has leaves like
hemp; its fruit buds and grows off the root, like potatoes or turnips ;
when it is ripe, they gather and grate it; then they squeeze out the
juice, which is deadly poison, and from the grated flesh they make large
white tender cakes, which when baked form the bread generally
eaten on this island and the other Windward Isles and in other hot
countries of the Indies, where they grow it with abundant returns ;
in soup it makes an excellent food.

120. On this island there are large cattle ranches and breeding estab-
lishments, and they get quantities of hides, which are exported to
Spain. They have good horses, the best ginger that comes to Spain
from the Indies, and some tobacco. This island possesses excellent
sugar mills and plantations, in which and the cattle ranches and other

48 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

farms, the natives having died out, there are Negroes and free
mulattoes to the number of 2,000, held by the residents of the city
and the island for the working of these plantations. Furthermore
there are large herds of swine, both on the farms and wild on the
hills, on which there is also excellent hunting for game birds like
guinea hens, pheasants, wild pigeons, doves, etc.

121. The Diocese of Puerto Rico has very wide jurisdiction, com-
prising four State Governments to which His Majesty appoints, in
consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies—three of them
with the title of Captain General, viz, Puerto Rico just described,
Cumana and Guiana, which only became an ecclesiastical province in
1629 and has no ecclesiastical head as yet; and Margarita, which is
over 150 leagues of dangerous sea voyage from Puerto Rico, with
obvious risk of freebooters’ attacks also. He appoints another in the
city of Cumana on the Spanish Main, 12 leagues from the island of
Margarita and its provinces; and another in the city of Santo Tomé
and Province of Guiana and island of Trinidad, which is over 250
leagues from Puerto Rico; Guiana lies over 100 leagues from Mar-
garita, and the island of Trinidad comes in between—all this with
great risk at sea and from pirates, if the Bishop is to make his official
visits and confirmations, as the true pastor and prelate is bound to do.

CuapTer VI (!)

Of the Island of Margarita, in the District of the Diocese of Puerto
Rico; Its Description, and Other Matters.

122. The island of Margarita lies in 12°30’ N. It is 15 leagues
long from E. to W., and 7 across from N. to S. It has the mainland
to the S., 8 leagues distant ; in between lie the islands of Goche and
Cubagua, from which has come great wealth in pearls. The soil on
the island is dry and covered with thorns, thistles, and spiny bushes,
but when it is cultivated the crops bear admirably and in profusion;
in fact, a fanega of corn bears 300- or 400-fold.

123. The city of La Margarita is established on the highest point
of the island, in its eastern section, 2 leagues from the coast. Its winter
climate is like that of Spain; at the other end of the island, to the
W., where Macanao is situated, at a distance of 14 leagues from
the city, the winter is like that of the mainland, very different and
quite the opposite of that of the capital. This latter was founded by
Licentiate Marcelo de Villalobos in the year 1525; it will have some
250 Spanish residents, not counting Negroes, mulattoes, and other
servants. There are in it a very fine parish church, Dominican and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 49

Franciscan convents, a hospital for the treatment of the indigent sick,
and a shrine of the glorious martyr Santa Lucia. This city used to
be very wealthy, thanks to the pearl fisheries; hence it has Officials
of the Royal Exchequer ; but nowadays it is poverty-stricken, for the
pearls have given out—a punishment which God in His mercy has
inflicted on the inhabitants of this country for their ingratitude and
lack of faith, in that most of the oyster beds have been exhausted
and have died out; they have recognized and appreciated this action
through its effects, and the means God employed for this chastise-
ment (in the opinion of most people in those regions) is that the
mouths of the Orinoco and other rivers along that coast as far as
the Maranon, expel and discharge a great mass of tainted water,
which is carried along the coast by the current which regularly runs
between those islands; its effect is like that of Greek fire or poison,
it washed up quantities of dead fish on those coasts, and it killed the
oysters from which they got the pearls, so that this great source of
wealth is lost.

124. His Majesty appoints a Governor for this city and island for
its good administration and for the dispensing of justice, in consulta-
tion with the Supreme Council of the Indies. The inhabitants live in
the valleys, where Gov. Don Bernardo de Vargas Machuca settled
the Indians who were native to the island and are called Guaiqueries ;
he had them build churches, in which Mass is said and the Holy
Sacraments are administered to them, as well as to many poor
Spaniards, mestizos, mulattoes, and Negroes, who live in these valleys,
viz: Tacarigua, Pedro Gonzalez, the Margarita Valley, Paraguachi,
and the San Juan Valley ; these are all inhabited by Guaiqueri Indians,
who have the rank of gentlemen and noblemen, honor conferred upon
them by His Majesty for the faithfulness and loyalty with which
they have served him well on every occasion which has arisen.

125, This island contains a village, de la Mar, with a few Guaiqueri
Indians, and its principal harbor is Pampatare, 4 leagues distant, at
which all ships bound there, touched ; there was an armed force there
which destroyed the Dutch pirate and carried off his cannon. There
are large herds of cattle and goats on the island, and the kids are very
good eating; the whole island is overrun with rabbits. In Macanao
itself there is an establishment for the pearl fisheries ; while all over
the island deer are abundant, only those in this section have bezoar
stones, which rank among the best and most highly prized from all
the Indies ; indeed, many who appreciate their value and efficacy, and
that of the medicinal plants which the deer feed on and which then
coagulate and grow within them, esteem them more highly than the

5

50 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Oriental bezoar, for the remarkable cures worked by them, such
being the reputation and fame of the bezoar stones of Macanao. The
island produces an abundance of swine and of game birds, pigeons,
turtledoves, and other wild fowl.

Cuapter VII (!)

Of the Raid Upon This Island and City by the Rebel Lope de
Aguirre, and of the Way in Which They Fish for Pearls.

126. The rebel freebooter Lope de Aguirre, after killing Gov.
Pedro de Ursua on the Marafion, and inflicting countless cruelties
and barbarities on his companions in that expedition, arrived at this
island of Margarita in the year 1560, late in the day of the glorious
Magdalen, July 22. At first he pretended to have been defeated and
forced to run in, so that they should supply him with boats and assis-
tance; then by a trick he seized the Governor of the island, at that
moment Don Juan de Villandrando; the Alcaldes, Alguacil Mayor,
and other leading residents of the city and island; but Captain
Mongitia, whom he had ordered to go and bring a ship lying at
Maracapana belonging to the Provincial of the Dominican Order,
Fr. Francisco de Montesinos, who was pacifying that province and
tribe with his preaching, would not obey his accursed command but
declared that his soldiers and he stood with the friar and had sworn
allegiance to His Majesty. Lope, in addition to many cruel and arbi-
trary acts against many other leading personages of the island, in
return for the welcome and kindly treatment they extended to him,
took vengeance on the poor Governor and Alcaldes by garroting
and hanging them, and he killed many other leading residents of the
island, and members of its garrison, during his stay in the city and
on the island. Finally, seeing that he was not safe there, he built a
ship in 28 days’ time and sailed in it to the port of La Borburata,
after laying waste the city and the island; then he went into Nueva
Valencia, where he committed a thousand cruelties and robberies, until
he was overcome and killed by the valiant Militia Captain Diego
Garcia de Paredes, of the noble house of the renowned and unsur-
passed Diego Garcia de Paredes, as will be told in due season.

127. The way they fish for pearls in this district, is as follows.
At the water’s edge within sight of the oyster beds and pearl fishery
they establish settlements which they call rancherias and every evening
the canoes anchor there. These canoes are really sizable lateen-rigged
frigates, but although they are ships of 1,500 fanegas’ capacity of
wheat or corn, in this pearl-fishing trade they call them canoes. To

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA SI

be a canoe master, one has to have at least a dozen Negro divers, plus
their captain who is a Negro expert in the profession, the canoeman
(canoero, who is a Spanish pilot), and the superintendent ; with this
crew he is a canoe master, although generally there are more persons
in each pearl-fishing canoe.

128. When the canoe anchors near the rancherias at night, the
Negro divers come out, each presenting in his shell the pearls he
has got that day; they turn in their shells and the superintendent
takes them over. Now each canoe master has in his house, or
rancheria, a room or large chamber like a hospital ward, called the
prison, where the Negroes have their beds and sleep under lock and
key, for even in pearl fishing chastity is necessary, to such a degree
that if anyone among them did otherwise, he would not be able to
fish or dive under water, but would stay on the surface like a cork.
Those who have disappointed their master in their catch of pearls,
or who are contrary, they keep in these dormitories or prisons, grills,
and cells, and they punish them by beating and flogging them in a
cruel and savage manner, a procedure quite alien to the profession
of Christianity, except that in what concerns this traffic, every possi-
ble means is required, for without it they would not do a thing.

129. The following day the canoe master leaves with his outfit and
boards his ship, or canoe, and sets sail for the oyster bed or pearl
fishery, which generally lies offshore 1, 14, or 2 leagues or even more,
and anchors at the bed; and there are canoemen so expert and with
such keen discrimination that, having purposely dropped a knife the
previous evening on a certain bed, the canoeman keeps such a sure
recollection of the spot where he left it that when he sees he is sail-
ing over the place, he drops anchor and tells one of the Negroes to
bring up the knife he left there the day before, and this in 8, 10, 12,
and even 14 fathoms, according to the depth of the bed, and that of
Macanao lies deep. When they dive under water, they carry down
a little net or reticule, fastened by a rope to the canoe; and they walk
about under the water picking up the shells and putting them into
this net or reticule ; and with great speed and skill they come up this
rope to the surface, and each empties out his shells into his own pile;
when they have caught their breath and rested a little, they start div-
ing again; and they continue thus till evening when their task is
over and they return to their dormitory to sleep.

130. Every 30 days the Negroes give their masters the cacona, i.e.,
the best pearls among those that they have fished up and kept; and
besides that, the canoe masters have other understandings with the
Negroes, redeeming their valuable pearls which they have secreted.

; 52 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

To this end on certain holidays they lay on a table or elsewhere excel-
lent suits of clothes or other valuable articles of clothing, and the
Negroes come out of it with clothes, and their masters with riches.
This exchange is forbidden along with others, under heavy penalties
for the masters. This brief account of the pearl fisheries must suffice,
to allow us to describe in the following chapter, the city and province
of Cumana.

Cuapter VIII (!)

Of the City of Cumana in Nueva Andalucia, and of Other Things
in Its District and State.

131. The city of Cumana was founded by Capt. Gonzalo de
Ocampo in the year 1520, when he came to punish the Cumana
Indians for their destruction of the Franciscan convent and murder
of the friars; and to make the punishment more lasting, and as the
case demanded, he established the city on the seacoast of the Spanish
Main, at present called Nueva Andalucia, at 9°30’ N. To its N. lies
the island of Margarita at a distance of 12 leagues; Caracas in the
Province of Venezuela is over 50 leagues to the W. along the coast,
and the island of Trinidad 50 leagues to the E.

132. The city will contain 200 Spanish residents, plus Negroes,
mulattoes, Indians, and servants. It has a parish church and a
Dominican convent with a few friars, and a shrine under the patron-
age of Our Lady of Carmen, which serves as a hospital for the care
of the indigent sick. The city and its districts have a warm climate
and abound in supplies; its ordinary bread is made of Indian corn
and cassava, which is made out of yucca; there are quantities of
cattle and swine, and in this district they grow and harvest a great
amount of tobacco, which is the chief staple of the country. They
have other crops and native fruits which are highly regarded, and
sugarcane and sweet potatoes.

133. It lies on the Gulf of Cariaco, which runs 20 leagues inland
and is a league wide; around it are numerous valleys, drained by
streams of sweet crystal-clear water, on whose banks the residents
of Cumana have their ranches where they raise quantities of cattle,
swine, and horses; they grow abundance of Indian corn and yucca.
This city enjoys a profusion of excellent fish. It has Royal Officials ;
His Majesty appoints a Governor with the title of Captain General
for its good administration and to dispense justice in the city and its
provinces.

134, It has two Spanish villages in its district, one of them San
Felipe, lying 24 leagues inland and counting some 40 Spanish resi-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 53

dents ; and the other, Cumanagoto, on the same coast W. of Cumana,
opposite the island called Borracha, 12 leagues from Point Araya,
by the Rio de Unare. The city of Cumanagoto will contain 150
Spanish residents, and there are large numbers of Indians in its
district, but they do not render service, since they take refuge with
the warlike Cumanagoto Indians who live in that region; hence it
is imperatively necessary that some powerful resident of that country
be charged with their conquest, and bring them to the knowledge of
our Holy Faith and Christian administration.

135. The residents of this city of Cumana, though few in number,
have been valiant in their prowess, on the occasions which have arisen,
against the enemies who have come to sack and harry those coasts.
In the year 1592 the corsair Walter Raleigh descended upon them
with six war vessels; he did much harm all along those coasts, having
first treacherously captured the city of San Josef on the island of
Trinidad, and killed many residents and transients; he sacked and
plundered the poor city and carried off captive Gov. Antonio de
Berrio as a prize for ransom. After this episode he reached the
harbor of Barbudo, which serves the city of Cumana, proposing to
capture and plunder it, and with that intent he landed a large force.

136. When the residents of Cumana were apprised of the pirate’s
intention and of the forces he brought with him in his six naval
vessels, a Captain Flamenco who at that moment was buying tobacco
in the port helped them out with harquebusses, muskets, powder, and
shot, exchanging and selling them for tobacco before the arrival of
the pirate with his outfit. As soon as he reached the harbor he landed
a large force, with a nephew of his as chief or general. They attacked
the city to rob and sack it, but the valiant citizens of Cumana, though
not equal in numbers to the enemy, surpassed them in courage and
energy, stimulated by their possession of the munitions; and when
they started defending their homes and had fired a few shots, they
had the good fortune to kill with one of them, the General, Walter
Raleigh’s nephew. So the enemy, with many killed and wounded and
without a leader, like sheep without a shepherd, began a disordered
flight to the sea; the corsair, on learning of his bad fortune, signaled
to them to make a stand ; but the valiant Cumananians butchered them
with songs of victory, till they forced them to reembark, leaving be-
hind many dead. And since the pirate reckoned that he was insecure
at sea, with the serious loss of his nephew and other officers and
soldiers, he hoisted sail and departed, leaving the valiant Cumananians
triumphant in victory worthy of praise, for they had won it without
superiority in numbers or strength, but relying solely on their spirit

54 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and bravery. This victory was won in this year of 1592, on the day
of St. John the Baptist.

137, Three leagues from the city of Cumana lie the salt beds of
Araya, the most abundant and the richest in salt to be found in the
universe, for under the water lies rock salt in such quantities that if
a hundred boats or galleons finish loading there, as has often been
seen, and another hundred arrive, there is cargo for all of them and
one notices no diminution in consequence of the earlier cargoes.

138. This lagoon lies at a distance of 700 paces from the sea, but
is fed from it and the salt coagulates at once, and this fact and its
abundance, in spite of the amount extracted, spread countless layers
of rock salt under the water ; and it is so concentrated that foreigners
profit by the fact in their countries and make three boatloads out of
one; wherever they use it they dilute it for salting down, it is so
strong. This salt-bed lagoon of Araya is a league and a half in
circumference.

139. In these salt works of Araya His Majesty ordered the estab-
lishment in 1622 of the garrison and fort of Santiago de Araya, for
the protection and defense of the salt beds. This fort is built on
Daniel Heights, given that name because Don Luis Fajardo hanged
Daniel there; he was a great pirate and harried those coasts, and
called himself Lord of the Araya salt beds. This garrison is for their
defense, so that the Dutch and other foreign foes may not succeed
in loading salt.

140. They built the fort on these heights; for its expenses they
bring the pay roll (situado) from the revenues of Cartagena, to pay
the garrison stationed there, viz, 200 infantry soldiers and a Lieu-
tenant or Warden. The first commander was Don Juan de Vargas
Machuca, appointed by His Majesty and subordinate to the Gover-
nor of Cumana. There are in the fort 40 pieces of artillery, of bronze
and cast iron, with 25 artillerymen and their master gunner, who
take pains to keep them polished and ready for the emergencies which
may arise. Thus the salt beds are protected and the pirates no longer
dare come to them, and so that nest of pirates was broken up.

CHAPTER IX

Of the Island of Trinidad and the City of St. Joseph Which Is
Located There.

141. The first person to discover and endeavor to take possession
of the island of Trinidad was Commander Juan Ponce de Leén;
many years later it was occupied by Gov. Antonio de Berrio, and in

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 55

the year 1591 he founded there the city of St. Joseph of Orufia ; but
in the following year of 1592 it had to be abandoned, as a result of
the arrival of the pirate Walter Raleigh on the island. Using shrewd
trickery he captured the city and executed some of the soldiers who
happened to be on hand, for on another occasion they had killed
many of his men; and having plundered the new city of what it con-
tained, he carried off Gov. Antonio Berrio prisoner, as a prize worthy
of ransom.

142. The city having been devastated by the pirate was again
settled, although without orders from His Majesty, by Diego de
Vides, Governor of Cumana, whose consuming ambition was all-
embracing ; but this resettlement did not last long, since Gov. Antonio
de Berrio had despatched the Militia Captain Domingo de Barbo y
Enivera to Spain to inform His Majesty of these new territories,
how well-peopled they were with savages, and that they lay close to
the provinces of Omagua, or El Dorado, about which, and their
great wealth of gold and silver, many reports were in circulation.
The Catholic Majesty of Don Philip II of glorious memory, having
listened attentively to this statement, and this new discovery having
been discussed in the Royal Council of the Indies, very favorable
letters patent were granted the Militia Captain, with important fran-
chises and privileges; and for settlers in this new country, and for
the voyage, he was granted 66,000 ducats, with which he purchased
eight filipotes of 300 tons, and two pataches of 100.

143. In the year 1595 he transported in them 3,500 soldiers—goo
of them married—with their wives and children, for exploration,
conquest, and settlement ; the rest were bachelors; they made up 60
companies with 60 captains and their flags, many drums (caxas) and
other warlike appurtenances. Thus there were 5,000 souls in the Io
vessels, counting the women and children; they crossed the bar of
Sanlucar de Barrameda on the day of St. Matthew in this year 1595 ;
and after 41 days’ sail they reached the harbor which they called
Port of Spain in the island of Trinidad, within sight of the Dragon’s
Mouth. There this Militia Captain disembarked his whole troop and
started the reestablishment of the city, expelling from it this Diego
de Vides, who had been Governor of Cumana. Having got all the
affairs of the new city and the island in good order, he at once sent
six companies of 50 soldiers each, under their captains, ensigns and
other officers and attendants, to the Provinces of Guiana, where the
first and principal city had been established; and he kept sending
people over there and some of his extra ship’s stores, to serve as a

56 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

base for further exploration and settlement, as that country was,
and still is, full of Indian tribes.

144. There were left over from the voyage 900 quintals of biscuit,
6,000 jugs of wine, with vinegar, oil, rice, chickpeas, and other pro-
visions, which they looked after carefully ; and for its better storage
and distribution, it was turned over and entrusted to Ensign Andrés
Garcia Pardo, who stored and distributed it with care; and while
the residue of their provisions lasted, they kept in good health. But as
soon as it ran out, since they had had no chance to sow anything,
the weather having been severe, in the dire necessity of their dearth
they ate fruit and roots they knew nothing about, and whatever small
fry they came upon. Thus their food was poor, they lacked comfort,
they were only just out from Spain (chapetones, as newcomers are
called), and the Indians of the district had fled; these afflictions and
the dearth caused such a pestilence that in the year 1596 there died
on the island of Trinidad over goo persons, 20 to 24 dying in a single
day, and the same over in Guiana, where more than 600 died of
illness and over 500 at the hands of the Indians, for as they did not
know the ways of the country, they were burned in their cabins.
And so, of the 5,000 souls arriving on this occasion for the explora-
tion and the settlement of the country, there will have survived till
today 40 persons, 25 in Trinidad, and in Guiana 15, as I was
informed by Capt. Andrés Garcia Pardo, who was there and is today
a resident of the island of Trinidad.

CHAPTER X

Of the Island of Trinidad and the City of San Josef, and Their
Way of Growing and Curing Tobacco.

145. The city of San Josef de Orufa on the island of Trinidad
counts 60 Spanish residents. It lies 2 leagues from the sea on an
impregnable site, thanks to the high mountain and thick forest hinder-
ing access to it. It has a parish church and a Franciscan convent.
The climate is hot ; they grow Indian corn and yucca, which is their
chief crop; the fertile soil bears these abundantly, and local fruit,
like papayas, plantains, pineapples, etc.; they get wax and wild honey
from trees in the woods. It lies at barely 10° N.

146. The chief staple of this country is tobacco, which at all times
has an excellent market; since its effects and virtues are well known,
I shall describe the way in which it is grown. The tobacco is planted
in little seedbeds like lettuce, and when it is ready—in November and
December on this island—they transplant it along lines or rows, like

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 57

a bean field or vineyard ; and as it keeps growing, they clean out and
weed the rows, until it is about a vara high, which point it reaches in
about 50 days; thereupon they cap it, i.e., they cut off the crown or
topmost shoot, so that it will grow to leaves, and they keep pulling
off the branchlets or shoots which it puts out along with them, so
that the leaves will grow and get thick, until it is ripe, which takes
another 50 days, and they weed it continually and pick off the cater-
pillars which usually do some harm to it. In this way the tobacco
leaves grow 4 or 5 palms long, and more, and 2 or 3 across, accord-
ing to the richness of the soil. After they ripen, they gather and
string them and hang them up inside a house, so that there in the
shade they may sweat and dry off, which takes 8 or 10 days; then
they pull out the central vein and twist them up into ropes or rolls;
there are men so expert in this operation that in one day they twist
300 pounds of tobacco and even more. That is the way they work
tobacco in this region, while in others they treat it in different fashion.

147. This island is 50 leagues in length, and 20 across at its broad-
est point; it is mountainous and heavily forested with valuable and
highly prized timber. There will be over 4,000 pagan Indians on the
island, owing to the lack of any prelate to favor their conversion ;
and so they live remote from the Spaniards, a fact which has induced
the Camajuya Caribs of the Windward Islands to fall upon them
frequently with cannibal intent; as many as 300 of the Indians of
the island have come for protection to the Spaniards, who are ready
to help them out; but as there is no shepherd to care for the flock
of the Lord, they are mostly heathen, for there is no one to teach
them Christian doctrine and our Holy Faith.

148. On its hills the island produces cacao trees which bear abun-
dantly, and if they would transplant and cultivate them, cacao would
make them wealthy. The island’s harbors are Port of Spain, which
is the main port for the city, and is on the S. coast of the island; on
the N. it has the harbor of Maracas, which is the shape of a horse-
shoe and excellent; nearby is another called Ayire, sheltered by a
high ridge or mountain; and 4 leagues to windward lies that of
Tunapo, deep and safe ; and 3 leagues farther is that of Point Galera,
the entrance to which is about the width of a harquebus shot; within,
it is ample and deep.

149. Near the island of Trinidad, on a N. and S. line with it, lies
the island of Tobago, which is 4 leagues in circumference, to the SE. ;
it possesses pearl beds, which are not exploited, for lack of workers.
This island is called Urupaina in the Indian language, meaning big
snail; it is inhabited by Carib Indians, who used to ravage the island

58 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of Trinidad and do much harm there and round about; but in 1606
the Spanish settlers in Trinidad, unable to tolerate such dangerous
neighbors any longer, waged war on them till they exterminated and
destroyed them, killing all the rebels who resisted them, and depopu-
lating the island ; the women and children they carried off to Trinidad
to be their servants, and they catechized them and taught them
Christian doctrine.

150. There are woods of valuable timber on this island of Tobago,
including trees of very handsome and elegant appearance, with the
taste and aroma characteristic of cinnamon, and some of the people
there utilize them. The woods furnish much honeycomb and honey ;
there are also other aromatic trees, and medicinal fruits and roots.

CHAPTER XI

Of the Provinces of Guiana and the City of St. Thomas (Santo
Tomé) Established There.

151. From the island of Trinidad to Santo Tomé in the Province
of Guiana will be a matter of 60 leagues by various routes, all by
sea up one or other of the mouths of the great River Orinoco, sail-
ing up which you seem to pass through a bit of earthly Paradise,
along the luxuriant forests of gay and beautiful aspect which line all
the river banks and shores, with a thousand sorts of handsome and
brilliantly colored birds, sweet songsters, and among them the stone-
bird, which has great curative virtues for that malady; it is black,
the size of a turkey, and with a crest of long elegant plumes adorn-
ing its head. The banks and shores of these mighty rivers are covered
with countless turtles and tortoises; in fact, merely to describe the
rivers and the remarkable things living there would fill many books.

152. While it is possible to reach Santo Tomé by any of the mouths
or channels of the Orinoco, the main route passes by Amacuro and
is navigable for ocean vessels, not merely to the city but for over
250 leagues upriver, up to the union of the Meta and the Casanare in
the New Kingdom of Granada, 60 leagues from Tunja; from the
port of Casanare it is 20 leagues to Tamara, and 20 more from there
to Chita, over a wretched trail badly blocked by high ridges and
mountains ; and it is 20 leagues more from Chita to Tunja. The Rio
Meta rises 2 leagues from Tunja, on the Santa Fé trail; the Casanare,
3 leagues from Chita, in the territory of Tunja; both are in the New
Kingdom of Granada. They run from W. to E. and empty into the
great River Orinoco, making it a mighty stream; it runs through the
Province of Guiana, in which the city of Santo Tomé was founded,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 59

and through many other provinces with different tribes, and pours
into the sea through many mouths, as I shall describe fully in the
following chapters.

153. On the shores and banks of these mighty rivers there are
many aromatic trees, like those furnishing dragon’s blood; stick a
knife into one, and this liquid oozes out. They get also canime, bal-
sam, liquidambar, benzoin, storax; there are cinnamon trees and
other valuable timber, copal and other gums, and medicinal fruits,
roots, and juices.

154, The city of Santo Tomé was established on the shores of
this mighty River Orinoco; it was founded and settled by Gov.
Antonio de Berrio in the year 1588, in the huge province of the
Guayane Indians called Guiana, 40 leagues up the river from the sea,
at 9° N. The city has over 80 Spanish residents, with a parish church
and a Franciscan convent. The country has a warm climate and
many woods and forests. The chief product of this province is tobacco,
excellent and abundant; there are cattle and hog ranches, which are
increasing ; these were introduced from the Province of Caracas and
the city of San Sebastian. They are beginning to plant cacao and
the yield is excellent ; in addition they have Spanish fruit trees, which
need nursing along, as is natural in a new country. Their chief sub-
sistence is Indian corn and cassava, which grow and yield abundantly
in the fertile soil; they have much native fruit; the city is excellently
provided with fish, of which much is caught in the rivers, and with
the feathered and other game which they hunt in the hills.

155. There are in the district of Guiana more than 600,000 souls
lacking knowledge of our Holy Faith; in the following chapters I
shall describe the tribes which dwell along the banks and shores of
this mighty River Orinoco, all of them still heathen because there is
no prelate to promote the conversion of their souls, for since the
foundation of the city not a prelate has seen or visited it; the reason
is that although at the beginning the Archbishop of the New King-
dom of Granada was charged with the task, he declined it because
the great distance (300 leagues) and the necessity of passing through
hostile Indian territory rendered it impossible. Then the Council,
in His Majesty’s name, entrusted it to the Bishop of Puerto Rico,
likewise 300 leagues distant, for a period of 4 years; he did not come
to visit it, either, and those new countries have not had the good
fortune of seeing any prelate among them, to strengthen and comfort
them.

156. Accordingly, since these provinces are so remote and back-
ward, and are coveted by the Dutch pirates and other foreign nations,

60 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

both on account of their situation and of the great amount of tobacco
grown and gathered there, and other native products, and since they
are without garrison or protection, they can be captured and occu-
pied. In fact, in the year 1618, the corsair Walter Raleigh sailed up
the river with his naval force to the city, which took up arms for its
defense; its Governor Diego Palomeque died fighting, and at his
side Captains Juan Ruiz Monge and Arias Nieto; but on the death
of the Governor and these valiant captains, the city was captured
and plundered by the corsair Walter Raleigh, who had come up the
river to take it with 10 naval vessels and 1,500 men, with the inten-
tion of settling there and fortifying the place because of its advan-
tages through the fertility of the soil and its products and other valu-
able exports, like timber, as had been pointed out by His Majesty
to the Governor. After the latter had died in the city’s defense, Capt.
Juan de Lezama, who took his place, being the oldest surviving
Alcalde, undertook to defend the place as best he could; he did
indeed, having only 47 Spaniards; he assigned half of them to the
protection of the women, whom he removed 4 leagues from the city,
and he posted others in key positions as sentinels. Having been
joined by sixty-odd loyal Indians with their bows and arrows, he
impressed them with His Majesty’s power; and with only the 18
Spanish soldiers who were left, the others having been posted where
they were needed, he made a stand against the enemy for 28 days,
making night attacks and incursions upon them most of the nights
and killing many of them without damage from them, being both
skillful and lucky. Thus with his tiny force he kept the enemy so
nervous and worried that 28 days after they had taken possession
of the city, this Captain Lezama with his men made his entry into it,
and fought from midnight to dawn with the enemy, killing over 200
of their men, and among them the son of their General Walter
Raleigh, who had entered the city at the head of 500 men armed with
pikes and harquebusses, Raleigh himself staying on shipboard. Hav-
ing suffered this loss, and seeing what firm resistance and what dam-
age he was meeting from so small a force, in despair and with threats
he hoisted sail and made off; and when His Majesty was informed
of the Governor’s death and of the defense of the city by its resi-
dents, His Majesty wrote them a letter conferring great honor on
the city and expressing his appreciation of their good service in its
defense.

157. When the episode was over, since the city lay in ruins and
defenseless, Capt. Juan de Lezama went over to the New Kingdom
of Granada to beg aid from the Royal Circuit Court which has its

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 61

seat at Bogota; they gave him a little, and referring him for the rest
to His Majesty, they appointed him Procurator General of all that
State, so that he might petition His Majesty to be favored with men,
arms, and munitions for the defense of the country, as well as a
prelate whose presence might further the conversion of the great
number of souls in that district; and it is Io years now that he has
been soliciting this, to be financed at his own expense.

CHAPTER XII

Continuing the Description of the District of Guiana.

158. The River Orinoco, on whose banks is established the city
of Santo Tomé of Guiana, has large wooded islands, which are inun-
dated when the river comes down in flood in the winter, for all the
lowlands, being flat, are covered; in summer they cultivate on these
islands large plantations of tobacco, Indian corn, and other crops,
which produce abundantly; the residents of these provinces enjoy
also another crop on the mainland, and harvest two per annum.

159. Near where the city is established, this past year of 1628,
above the rapids of the River Orinoco, where there are great veins
in the cliffs, they discovered rich quicksilver ore, Don Luis de
Monsalve being Governor of those provinces; so the Royal Council
of the Indies resolved in the year 1629 to establish a Bishop in those
provinces, since one was greatly needed for the spiritual comfort of
the residents and conversion of the natives, and also, in view of the
excellence of the country, to aid with some soldiers for its garrison,
as had been requested for many years by Capt. Juan de Lezama, its
Procurator General, and to send some Negroes, since, besides what
has been stated, it is rich in gold ore and alluvial deposits, and will
be one of the best and wealthiest countries in the Indies.

160. There are in these provinces many varieties of game: Deer;
a sort of pig like wild boars but a little smaller, called vaquira ;
guadatinajas, which are a bit larger than hares and good eating ; the
cachicamos, which are the size of a rabbit, with a sharp muzzle and
their whole bodies covered with scales; cavies (lapas), which are
like sucking pigs; morrocoes, which resemble tortoises; ant bears,
tapirs, tigers, lions, ounces, and many other species; monkeys and
marmosets of over a dozen kinds, large and small; squirrels, rabbits,
and other small animals.

161. Of game birds there are three varieties of turkeys; paujies
(curassows), which are as large as turkeys; the chachalaca or Texan
guan ; egrets of varied hues, black, white, gray, and scarlet, all with

62 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

delicate plumes on their heads; royal ducks and other varieties ; many
kinds of pigeons and doves, partridges, parrots, macaws, catalnicas
(lories?), parrakeets, and others like song sparrows, and many other
species of birds of varied and beautiful coloring and with sweet songs.

162. There are many kinds of wild fruit, like the cometures, which
resemble black grapes and grow on very tall trees; almonds, de-
scribed in another chapter; jobos, which grow on tall trees and are
like plums; mercures, which are larger than pears and of the same
shape, green and yellow in color and well-flavored ; lanas, which are
a fruit the shape of apples, well-flavored and growing on tall trees ;
mielgas, a green fruit the size of a walnut, well-flavored and health-
ful; mamones, the size of a pigeon’s egg or larger, green in color and
having a kernel inside which tastes like an acorn, with bittersweet
surrounding pulp; it grows on a tall spreading tree of handsome
appearance; cotoprises, which are a yellow fruit, well-flavored, the
size of a lemon; siuti, growing on trees of medium height; cherries
like our own; paujies, a yellow fruit the size of walnuts, with a bitter-
sweet flavor; pitahayas, looking like red pears; the inner flesh is
white and smooth, with some black seeds ; they grow on spiny shrubs ;
dates are another fruit of the same sort, growing on spiny plants;
brevas (early figs), of almost the same shape and flavor, are yellow
in color and grow on thorny, branchless trees ; guamaches, which are
a small fruit like little muscadine pears, well-flavored; they grow on
spreading thorny trees; caras, a fruit growing on tall, spreading
trees, and the size of mazard cherries; they are well-flavored and
are eaten cooked; guavas of various sorts; grapes grow on thorny
vines, with big bunches; mataraes grow on palms, putting forth long
bunches of red grapes, well-flavored, like mazards; when eaten, the
flesh holds the seed inside it, the latter tasting like a hazelnut;
chivechives, which grow in large bunches on shrubs with thorny
stalks, like thistles ; they are smooth and well-flavored ; pifiuelas are
the size of a long finger, with a smooth skin and white flesh, a deli-
cate and healthful fruit; they grow on thorny shrubs like thistles ;
mayas, another fruit growing on thorny shrubs like thistles, which
put forth very large bunches; the fruit is the size of large muscadine
pears ; pineapples, achiote, wild pineapples (? pitas), and many other
varieties of fruit, impossible to catalog. And since the land is so fertile
and productive and with strong indications of gold ore and other valu-
able commodities, and well peopled by the various tribes living there,
Capt. Diego de Henares Lezama and his sons, Capt. Juan de Lezama
and Antonio de Lezama, in the year 1598, in their desire to serve
God and His Majesty and to exalt our Holy Faith, left the city of

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 63

San Sebastian de los Reyes to conquer and colonize it, as they did;
they took with them at their own expense a squadron of soldiers
with many arms, supplies, and munitions, a herd of mares, 100
horses, 1,400 cattle both for food for the soldiers and for breeding,
and 125 head of swine; in this expedition they devoted their lives
to His Majesty’s service, and there finally died Capt. Diego Henares
de Lezama, his father, and his brother Antonio de Lezama.

CHAPTER XIII

Continuing the Description of the Provinces of Guiana and Others,
and What Information There Is Regarding Those of Manoa and
Caranaca.

163. The great River Orinoco, which traverses the Provinces of
Guiana, and various other tribes, has on both sides fertile land and
valleys suitable for cattle ranches and farms; on the N. the plains
extend up to the Provinces of Venezuela; on the W., to the New
Kingdom of Granada; and on the WSW. they extend for more than
600 leagues, occupied by great provinces and settlements of various
nationalities and peoples who have not arrived at a knowledge of
our Holy Faith.

164, The land in these regions belongs to the most fertile and pro-
ductive to be found in the Indies, and is admirably adapted for stock
raising ; from there it would be possible to transport to Spain easily
and cheaply on this mighty river both the hides and the other products
of the country; and all Spanish fruit, cereals, and vegetables will
yield bountifully there, thanks both to the richness of the soil and
to the excellent climate, water supply, sunny skies, and pure air of
that region ; but there is a complete dearth there, for lack of popula-
tion and development.

165. In the other direction, ESE. from the River Orinoco to the
Rivers Amazon and Marafion, it is 250 leagues by the coast, and in
between there are extensive provinces of various peoples, some clothed
and some naked; and from all of them and from those close to the
Orinoco there come great stories of the great city of Manoa and
Provinces of El Dorado; and among the numerous investigations
made in this regard, Gov. Don Fernando de Berrio found in the
Province of Los Chimores, two very skillfully painted cloaks like
the Peruvian ones, and goatskins and horns; and when he asked
them where they had got them, they replied that they had got them
by trade with Indians of other adjoining inland provinces, who had
brought them from the Provinces of Manoa, where, beside a large

64 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

lake, there is a city or town, which is more than 3 leagues across,
called Manoa; this possesses great wealth in gold and silver and
other valuables, and they affirm that it has one street more than 2
leagues long, of goldsmiths and silversmiths, who fashion the metals
after their method; they say also there are large herds of goats and
other livestock there; all the buildings in this city are of very skill-
fully hewn stone; they say it lies near a great salt lake which is 200
leagues long, 100 across, and over 600 in coast line; round about it
lie more than 3,000 towns with 3,000, 4,000, or 5,000 Indians each,
and in the lake there are many islands with large towns and many
lords and chieftains who govern them; and they have innumerable
canoes and dugouts, which are the boats in which they sail from one
point to another.

166. They travel to this great city of Manoa from all the border-
ing provinces as to a metropolis, with the products and merchandise
of their territories, and they trade in them there. From the Provinces
of Guiana and those bordering on them, they say one can go in 10
days to the Province of Selve, from which they carry their products or
merchandise on their shoulders 1 day’s journey to Lake Parime;
from there they travel by boat to the Salt Lake, where they trade
with the natives who live in the district of Manoa. They say also
that one can go there by the Rio Caperuza, along whose banks grows
much brazilwood and other valuable timber, with however few in-
habitants; near there is the Rio Papago. The Indians living in that
region travel 20 days in their dugouts to the city of Manoa, on the
Rio Casane, which is large and with beautiful views; the Indians
living in its vicinity transport on this river their products to the city
of Manoa; these Indians are gentle and well-disposed.

167. The tribes living round about the great Lake of Manoa are
the Anibales, the Parimes, the Docios, the Pompones, the Nobines,
and innumerable other tribes of varying costumes and rites of wor-
ship; and as I relate in book II, chapter V of part II, their towns
are encircled by mountain ranges; and all through that region also
Manoa is well known, as is attested by the Indians of those
provinces—the Neguas, the Senos, the Tamas, the Acanecos, the
Atuatas, and the other adjoining tribes in that quarter. This informa-
tion is confirmed also by the report of the English knight Duarte
Roles in a letter which he wrote to H. M. King Philip II of glorious
memory, in the year 1596, giving an account and description of these
provinces and their wealth, and the large cities that there were in
them, since he had traveled 3 years along those coasts and had
received from the natives information about everything.

i ee es

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 65

168. Besides the provinces described near the River Orinoco, 130
leagues inland from the city of Santo Tomé, in the plains one hears
great tales of the Province of Caranaca and other large cities; and
at various times many captains of the Province of Venezuela have
set out for it, and especially from Caracas, as a result of the great
stories circulating about its wealth in gold, silver, and other valu-
ables, and the numerous tribes and towns in it, on the banks of a
large lake ; but they never were able to reach it or explore it, because
of the wide extent of country intervening, until, in the year 1621,
Don Fernando de Berrio left the city of Santo Tome, Guiana, with
70 soldiers, attracted by the great stories and tales related to him
by the Indians of the provinces bordering on the Orinoco, and in
particular, the Ajaguas, regarding the great wealth and the cities of
Caranaca; and when he had traveled up the River Orinoco till he
reached the Province of the Ajaguas with his forces, he struck up
the Rio Apurisarare; and on its banks he found a settlement half a
league long, where many Indians had been fishing ; he captured one
of those who had stayed at the settlement, who gave him an accurate
account of Caranaca; that there were innumerable Indians living in
its large cities on the banks of a lake lying near low mountain ranges,
and that his expedition was tiny compared with the great numbers
of people there ; and to make his meaning clearer, he took some hand-
fuls of sand and said that just as it was impossible to count their
grains and particles, so it was to count the Indians and the towns
to be found there; that there was great wealth there of gold, silver,
and precious stones, and other valuables, and that if they went there,
they would all be killed; and the Governor, in order to get greater
confirmation of what the Indian had told him, pressed on to explore
the country, and after 3 or 4 leagues of progress, he found many
roads well trodden and traveled, and crossing one another, and that
there were large settlements of those tribes; whereupon, being con-
vinced that the information and the account which the Indian had
given him was true, he decided to turn back and return another
summer on a more propitious occasion and better provided with men,
arms, and other things needful for the conquest and exploration for
which he felt responsible. He went back to the city of Santo Tomé,
Guiana, in his State, and decided he would proceed from there to
Spain to render an account to His Majesty; and on his journey he
was captured and taken to Algiers, where he died. This caused the
suspension of exploration in such rich provinces as those of Caranaca
and Manoa or El Dorado, until it may please God so to dispose and

6

66 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

ordain matters that all those tribes may come to obey and know our
Holy Faith, bringing them out of the darkness of heathendom and
subjection to the Devil, who keeps them in blindness.

CHAPTER XIV

Of the Different Tribes Settled Along the Banks of the River
Orinoco, Near the District of Guiana.

169. There are in the district of Guiana, or Santo Tomé, many
heathen Indian tribes to be brought within the Faith; those who live
along the banks and shores of the great River Orinoco, alone surpass
the number of 600,000 souls, not counting innumerable other tribes
which are settled inland, surrounding those which will be described
in this chapter.

170. The first and most important tribe living near the sea is the
Aruacas, who were always friendly disposed to the Spaniards,
although under foreign instigation they have been in a state of rebel-
lion for over 10 years; they live in the Esquibo Valley. Near this
tribe is that of the Tibitibes, who live in houses built over the water,
2 leagues from the harbors where the ships put in, through distrust
and fear of their Carib enemies and of the Spaniards. They build
their houses with such cleverness and artifice that to approach them
they cut and make use of palms and other slender tree trunks, with
so many curves and windings that it seems impossible to get to them,
both for the danger of such thin timbers and for the complicated
labyrinth ; and when some Spaniard arrives at their houses, after all
these risks run in getting there, although they may be full of people,
they disappear and become invisible by letting themselves drop into
the water, plunging into it through numerous trap doors which they
have made for that purpose, so that they seem bewitched; and until
they are reassured by the interpreter who has been brought along,
they will not come back.

171. They are so patient and ingenious that from a tree which
they call vice, and from another called vagasa, which are of monstrous

height and thickness, they manufacture with a scrap of iron which |

they whet and sharpen like an adz, a boat or dugout which will hold
from 400 to 600 jugs of wine and 60 persons with all that is neces-
sary for their food and maintenance. One Indian alone will take a
whole year to turn one out, and even longer, helping himself out with
fire to open up the wood; and when he has got it finished, he will
sell it to the Spaniards for 8 axes, which at the most are worth 16
8-real pesos. They have a tree like the royal palm from which they

tc ti ts iia et a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 67

get clothing, food, and drink, and make their beds, shoes, and what-
ever they need.

172. Near the tribe of the Tibitibes is that of the Chaguanes, who
always go in bands; they live along the banks of the River Orinoco
and others, maintaining themselves by hunting and fishing and on
turtle eggs, of which there is great abundance, and they get food
from this same palm. Adjoining them is the tribe of the Guayanes,
where the city of Santo Tomé is located; it numbers over 40,000
Indians ; some are peaceful and render service to the Spaniards, but
these latter are few, and there is no prelate to convert them, so that
they have relapsed into heathendom.

173. Right next the province and tribe of the Guayanes come those
of the Caribs in Upper and Lower Caura, river-mouth estuaries run-
ning up the Orinoco and Peos, over 50 leagues up the Orinoco. The
Peos tribe numbers over 5,000 Indians; they live distributed among
various villages, through distrust and fear of their Carib enemies, so
that, when there is news of their coming they can send word from
one village to another to put themselves in hiding, or in state of de-
fense if they can resist. Their next neighbors are the tribe of the
Aruacos, and theirs, the Mapueyes, who number over 6,000 Indians ;
next comes the tribe of the Guaiqueries, who are said to be descended
from those of the island Margarita; they went inland and are settled
at the mouth of the Rio Guarico, which empties into the Orinoco 100
leagues above Santo Tomé.

174, The tribe of the Amaibas lives on the banks of the Orinoco ;
they feed on turtles and tortoises, which swarm on the river beaches ;
they farm their yucca patches and other crops; the country is full of
gold. This tribe counts over 10,000 members; next comes the tribe
of the Parabenes, and after them countless other tribes. Next follows
the tribe of the Chimeres; they are very orderly and _ intelligent
Indians ; they live in villages well-administered; they plant and har-
vest their crops of corn, cassava, and other products ; they will num-
ber over 3,000 Indians, not counting women and children; they have
not been converted to the Faith for lack of a prelate, and for that
reason there is no one in that section to undertake the saving of
their souls.

175. Next the Chimeres comes the tribe of the Viroteros, a war-
like people numbering more than 12,000 Indians ; adjoining them live
the Arutos, a degenerate people without villages or organization ; they
live like savages, feeding on fish and on their own filth dried and
ground up, which they keep in baskets they call mapires; and if they
are taken out of this kind of life, they die at once. Beyond this tribe

68 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

is that of the Ajaguas, near the Rio Meta and living on its banks;
they have a large population. Adjoining them is the tribe of the
Caquétios, on the plains at the source of the Casanare, in the Province
of Tunapuna; these are already Christian Indians and live in settle-
iments, although they have no priests, because their encomenderos are
more concerned with sending them tribute collectors than persons to
teach them Christian doctrine and good habits.

176. The tribe of the Guaibas are like gypsies; they travel over
the plains in troops, without village or abiding place; they live by
stealing what they can from the neighboring tribes, without having
any definite home or village. The tribes mentioned above are those
living in the valley and on the banks of the River Orinoco, not includ-
ing countless others living inland.

CHAPTER XV

Of the Tribe of the Aruaca Indians, Valiant beyond the Others;
of the Way in Which They Commission Captains, and of Their
Deeds and Victories over Other Tribes.

177. The tribe of the Aruaca Indians is among the most valiant in
those parts; feared for their bravery by their neighbors and adjoin-
ing tribes, they are envied by the Indians of other tribes; they were
always very loyal friends of the Spaniards, and when the latter came
from Spain in the year 1595, they helped, served, and assisted them
in all their needs, although at the present time they have withdrawn.

178. While enjoying the good graces and the friendship of the
Spaniards, and incensed against the Carib Indians of Granada and —
other Windward Islands because of the robberies they committed, —
Aracoraima, the valiant cacique of the Aruacas went to the island of
Margarita to pledge 24 of his women for the sum of 6,000 pesos’
worth of axes, knives, and other trade goods, in order to build a
fleet of 120 vessels against these Caribs and to take all those islands,
and though he was only a poor naked Indian, they gave him the
6,000 pesos on his word without any security; it had no sequel, for
the Spaniards interfered, desiring to go with him as his elder brothers
and carry off all the glory ; the Indian paid his debt and returned home.

179. While this valiant Aracoraima was on this journey to the
island of Margarita, crossing from Chacachacare to the mainland, in
the midst of the Dragon’s Mouth and traveling alone in his dugout with
his 24 women whom he took along as rowers, he was met by six dug-
outs of Camajuya Indians; he fought bravely with them until they
left him for dead, whereupon they put a dozen young braves in his

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 69

boat to carry it off, with the women (whom they tied down) ; their
six dugouts having pushed ahead, the men who had come into his
boat, feeling that they were free, and considering him dead, untied
the women, wishing to enjoy them; but this Aracoraima, returning
to his senses and seeing a stone-edged club nearby, laid hands upon
it and grappled with his opponents, killing some of them and knock-
ing the others into the water, and he succeeded in rescuing his women ;
and having escaped from such great danger, he returned victorious to
his village of Caroa, which was at the tip of the island of Trinidad.

180. This tribe of the Aruacas thus commissions its captains or
headmen: the Indian who is to be made captain has to kill three
foes in battle with his war club, which is of a very remarkable striped
wood, and he has to make three notches in it, witnesses to his deeds,
to certify them to the general or cacique who governs them; and
when they are certified, they cut off his hair and put a hammock up
for him at the top of the house; and there he stays a year in penance
and fasting, so savage that they give him no sustenance but the drink
mazato, which is like bread porridge, made from cassava, which is
their bread, with nothing else ; and at the end of this year of penance,
they give him a big dish made of a gourd and holding about a gallon
(2 azumbres), and they give it to him full of a drink they make very
strong and thick out of peppers, which in their language they call
agitipoche, thinned with water, like bread porridge; and it burns and
he has to drink it all up without a break or showing any weakness ;
and when he has drunk it up, they put a garland or headdress of
many-colored feathers on him, and they explain to him the rank he
is receiving, and the deeds of his ancestors, whom he is to follow
and imitate with courage; whereupon two of the doughtiest Indians
give him cruel lashes, which he suffers with courage and calmness ;
and thus he is commissioned captain and knight, and might so be of
Christ, did he know Him, and so suffer for His love. The following
year he has to keep from eating meat; he has to live only on cassava
and fish and nothing else, and he must not drink water, but only their
wine, or mazato, which is stoutly intoxicating ; and thus his penance
is fulfilled and his captaincy earned.

CHAPTER XV

Of the Naval Battle Which the Aruaca Tribe Fought with the
Garina Caribs.

181. Between the Aruaca tribe, whose General was Aramaya,
nephew of Aracoraima, and the Garina tribe of Caribs, there arose

7O SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

a controversy over which of the two tribes was the more noble; this
gave rise to impassioned enmity between them. The Aruacas wear
tonsures like friars; the Caribs grow their hair long, to the waist.
After clashing on the occasion referred to, and others, in a naval
battle in the year of 1596 they each brought up for the purpose all
their troops and forces. The Carib, being more powerful, his tribe
counting over 400,000 Indians, assembled 120 dugouts; the Aruaca,
being courageous, was not frightened by the Carib’s strength, and
with only the 60 dugouts he got together, set out after him up the
rivers; and for many days one force kept hunting the other without
being able to find it, the channels being so numerous, so large, and
so winding, as e.g., the great River Orinoco. After a long search, one
night the Aruaca descried the Carib fleet within sight of the sea, at
the mouth of the Guaini, which is where the battle took place; and
when the Aruaca had realized, from the numerous lights to be seen,
that it could only be the Carib enemy, he crossed to the other side of
the river and immediately sent him a message by one of his captains
so that the Carib might know that he had arrived in search of him,
and that he should choose the spot for fighting the battle, since he
wanted to give him that privilege.

182. The Carib Tocaurama, General of that people, sent word to
the Aruaca that it suited him right there at the mouth of the Guaini,
where they were. At dawn the next day they put their navies in
battle array; the Aruaca being the more skillful and courageous,
arranged his forces in unison and with all his men well posted and
prepared, and with a boldly strategic plan of attack, so that when the
two forces clashed, within 2 hours after the beginning of the fight,
the Aruaca had captured 4o of the Carib dugouts, and among them
the Admiral’s, with General Tocaurama himself; and when General
Aramaya wanted to kill his captive, the latter begged him for his life,
admitting that Aramaya was the more valiant, and adding that with
this admission he would become his tributary and would pay him
homage, and that every year on the day of the battle, in such and
such a moon (which is their way of reckoning) he would send him
a dugout loaded with hammocks, cassava, cotton, and six women
slaves, as an acknowledgment of his subordination and vassalage ;
whereupon he granted him his life, and Tocaurama and his Caribs
became tributary to the tribe of the Aruacas. Later Aramaya died
and left a son in his stead, by name Liranzo, as brave as his father,
and the present ruler of the Aruacas, and feared and respected by
the Caribs. These Aruacas used to be very friendly and loyal de-
pendents of the Spaniards; but they apportioned them unwisely,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 71

without their receiving any benefit or catechism for Christian doc-
trine, but instead much abuse and ill treatment, which forced them
to run away; for these and other well-grounded reasons they can-
celed their fealty to the Spaniards, who had sad need of them; indig-
nant over past abuses, they rebelled ; and not a Spaniard dares enter
their provinces, under risk of no less than loss of life.

CHAPTER XVI

Of the Rites, Ceremonies, and Customs of This Aruaca Tribe.

188. This Aruaca tribe has the custom that when a woman’s hus-
band is killed in war and she gets word of his death, she cuts off her
hair, which they wear very long, having no clothing other than what
Nature has given them; she smashes all the pots and jars she has and
the cibucanes, which are contraptions made out of bamboo, having
the shape and build of a coatsleeve or a stocking, and which they use
like a press, in preparing théir bread, which they make out of cassava ;
with them they squeeze and compress the cassava to get rid of its
sap and juice, which is deadly poison; the bread, once this juice is
removed, is well-flavored, healthful, and good; in her mourning she
burns also these cibucanes; and she might have Spanish goods, like
axes, machetes, knives, and other commodities which they sent in to
trade for slaves, hammocks, cassava, honey, and other native prod-
ucts, goods held in trust by her husband, for the women looked after
them, to give an account of them to their owners.

184, And after she has smashed and burned up all her belongings
through grief at the death of her husband, her relatives come to her
fields and plantations of yucca, gather it and prepare and bake the
cassava in little ovens which they call budales, until the bread made
out of the cassava is well toasted; then they throw all this bread into
boiling water and go and put it back into the cibucanes which serve
them as presses, and they keep pouring off whatever distils from it,
into jars they have for this purpose, until it bubbles up like wine,
and they stir it with sticks so that it shall bubble up and ferment
evenly ; that is how their wine is made; they call it guero; it is the
same color as ours, but stronger, and when it begins to sink in the
jars, that is a sign that it is fully matured.

185. After this all the relatives, friends, and neighbors meet to
observe the funeral rites of the deceased, weeping and singing of
his prowess, deeds, and valorous acts, with a solemn drinking bout, and
they drink nobly, till all get drunk and consume all that the widow
possessed of her late husband’s property, without leaving her any-

7/2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

thing; and she is not present at this ceremony and drinking bout,
but stays in retirement in her room; and when they have finished the
funeral ceremonies after this manner, and have exhausted everything
on hand, the relatives at once discuss marrying off the widow; and
on their suggesting some suitor to her, she asks him if he will be
like her late husband in supporting her; and if the suitor agrees to
the conditions she lays before him, he goes and lies down in a ham-
mock (which is their bed), and the closest relative she has takes her
by the hand quite negligently along where the man who is to be her
husband is lying in his hammock; and he, staying very much on the
lookout, seizes her when she strolls near him and pulls her away
from the relative who has her by the hand; and after struggling with
her, he lays her in his bed and sleeps with her ; and before day dawns,
she goes off into the woods overcome with shame, and stays there
3 days without her new husband seeing her or learning anything
about her, nor does she ask after him; and after 3 days the relatives
on both sides meet and say to the suitor: Let us go for your wife;
and they all go to where the relatives know that she is, and there
they embrace and then they are married in every respect; and she
says to him: Take note that I have such and such property, or so
many axes or knives, belonging to such and such Spaniard or
Spaniards, and my former husband received them and they gave him
credit and he did not pay for them; and you have to help in the
settlement of this business, both for the relief of my husband’s con-
science and for good relations; and he comes to the rescue with
much solicitude and exactness, satisfying the owners with his good
relations and truthfulness.

186. The important Indians and the caciques have six or eight
wives, and each moon he sleeps with one particular one, and although
they all are responsible for providing him with food, the chief and
favorite dish is prepared by the one who sleeps with him that moon.
The ordinary Indians have two or three wives. For wife they say
soco; son, dadite ; father, dajuna; friend, dabuquei or tapane.

CHAPTER XVII

Of the Manner in Which the Carib Tribe Commissions Its Cap-
tains, and of the Mouths of the River Orinoco, Where They Live.

187. The Carib tribe, who eat human flesh, have their settlements
along those mouths of the Orinoco which are called Garinas. In
order to be commissioned captain among them, one has to kill three
of the enemy in battle with a wooden club, which is their sword ; and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 73

when he has succeeded in killing the three enemies, he throws his
club on the ground and secures witnesses to his prowess, and fights
no more, going off to his canoe, where he lies down and does not
get up till his cacique or general who governs them, arrives; then
they retire to their villages or provinces, where they cut off his hair
and hang a hammock for him at the highest point of the house where
they live; and there they make him fast for a whole year, without
his eating, or drinking anything but mazato, their drink made out
of cassava; and 15 days before the end of the year, they go out after
big wild ants, almost as large as bees, which in their language they
call jalofas ; they pick up quantities of them by their necks, and every
bite or sting of theirs lasts 24 hours and causes fever; they throw
troops of these into the hammock or bed where he lies, for them to
bite and sting him, and he has to endure them with patience without
flinching or showing weakness, for the period of 24 hours; and then
they take him out of the hammock and put on him a feather head-
dress of many colors; and as they all stand there together, they set
him between two powerful Indians with two whips, such as coach-
men use; they give an account of the deeds and the bravery of their
ancestors and tell him he must imitate them in the defense of his
country ; then, raising up their arms, they give him many lashes of
the whip; and if he shows any weakness or fear, they take him back
again for penance; and if he shows valor and fortitude, they all
honor and cheer him with much noise; and giving him his bow and
arrows, they throw a fast-rolling ball of cotton yarn, and he shoots
four arrows at the ball; and with this he becomes a commissioned
captain and headman. }

188. Since the River Orinoco through its size belongs among the
greatest known rivers of the world, since it pours into the sea through
numerous mouths scattered over a distance of 70 leagues, and since
the majority of its mouths and shores are occupied by the Garinas
tribe of Carib Indians, I shall give an accurate description, never
before published, of these mouths, of which each is as large as its
parent channel; of the distance from one to another, with their
names; of the localities settled by the Caribs, viz, Guarapiche,
Mataroni, and Amacuro; and of the harbors and towns on these
rivers.

189. The Rio Esequibo was considered by some a mouth of the
Orinoco, but it is not; it empties into the sea between the island of
Trinidad and the island of Tobago; it is a large, deep river; its
mouth is 2 leagues wide; it lies toward the Maranon. The first mouth
of the Orinoco is the Varima; it is 10 leagues distant from the

74 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Esequibo ; at the sea its mouth is 2 leagues wide ; its banks are occupied
by Caribs.

190. The Amacuro is 2 leagues distant from the Varima; in size
and depth it is the most important, and the channel entered by boats
going upriver to Santo Tomé, Guiana, which lies 40 leagues from
the sea; for vessels of 100 tons it is navigable for 250 leagues and
over, as far as the port of Meta and Casanare in the New Kingdom
of Granada. The Guaini is the third in order, 4 leagues beyond the
Amacuro; its mouth is over 24 leagues wide; it is very pleasant and
attractive to the eye, with many fruit trees of guavas and other fruits,
which serve as cheering refreshment to those who travel upon it.

191, The Aracanasa comes next in order after the Guaini, follow-
ing the coast up toward Trinidad; it takes its name from a small
island opposite the mouth and some 3 leagues out to sea, called
Aracanasa, where vessels anchor coming out of the rivers. This
island has quantities of iguanas, a sort of animal or vermin like
lizards but much more savage and ugly; its meat is like chicken or
rabbit; although it walks on the ground, it is eaten in Lent. There
are such quantities of them on this island that when you go to catch
one and it runs away from you, you pursue it into its hole or burrow,
and as the whole island is made of sand and you can easily open up
the burrow, you generally take 15 or 20 out of each one, which gives
plenty to eat.

192. The Cutipe lies half a league distant from Aracanasa; it is
the smallest outlet of the Orinoco. The Macareo is 8 leagues distant
from the Cutipe ; it is over 2 leagues wide ; this is the outlet generally
used as the safest for travel to the island of Trinidad. The Capure is
4 leagues beyond the Macareo; it is 5 leagues across, but shallow;
in the center it has a tiny islet crowded with herons, ducks, and other
birds. The Pedernales’ mouth is 3 leagues beyond the Capure; it is
a league wide and is deep.

198. The Guarapiche is the last mouth of the Orinoco; it is I
league distant from the Pedernales, and measures another league
across ; it is the outward and inward channel for the Garinas Caribs
living in those mouths. This outlet emerges back of the Province of
Paria, and in that quarter borders on the Cumanagotos, i.e., the
Gulf of Cariaco, and serves the Cumana farms. This gulf looks like
the mouth of a river, for on each side it has over 10 leagues of terra
firma. The gulf is very rich in fish, and at low tide such quantities
are stranded in the shallows and pools that they can load boats with
them. The land abounds in game, paujies, pheasants and so many
other birds and animals that it is impossible to enumerate them. It is

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 75

here that the dugouts customarily stop on their way from Trinidad
to Margarita when there is bad weather or a storm; they make into
this gulf or to a small island lying across it, called Duck (Patos)
Island, for the quantities of ducks there; it has good harbors for
shelter till the storm has passed. Behind this gulf is the Chaimas,
near Guarapiche, which also comes from the settlement of San Felipe
de Campos.

CHAPTER XVIII

Of the Route Followed by the Dugouts Voyaging from Trinidad
to Margarita, and of Other Features of the Country.

194, The navigation and route of the natives of the island of Trini-
dad (whose Indians belong to the Nepuyos and Guayanes tribe)
pass through the Dragons’ Mouths, which lie 7 leagues from the
island of Trinidad; they are exceedingly dangerous at all times be-
cause of the strong currents and riffles caused by the points or island
of Chacachacare ; straight down the coast 4 leagues from these mouths
is the harbor of Auquire, at the foot of the lofty Paria ranges,
which seem to reach to the sky.

195. From Auquire it is 4 leagues farther to the harbor of Pargos,
which is excellent ; from there, 2 leagues to that of Mejillones; from
Mejillones it is 3 leagues to Puerto Viejo; at this point begin the
first habitations of the Paria Indians. Two leagues straight ahead
is the harbor of Santa Cruz (Paria), where more Paria Indians
live; from Santa Cruz it is 5 leagues to the harbor and river of
Unare, where there is a famous valley with many plantations of
bananas, coconut palms, and other fruit trees, although the settle-
ments lack Indians; at this point they are near the Cumanagotos.

196. Ten leagues after one passes the Unare comes the Rio de
Caribes, behind Malapascua Point, which is called on the navigation
charts the Cabo de Tres Puntas (Three-pointed Cape). This river
is bordered by many farms and cattle ranches belonging to the resi-
dents of Margarita. Two leagues beyond lies Puerto Santo, where
they rest and make ready for the trip across to Margarita. Nearby
there is another river called Rio de Franceses (Frenchmen’s River),
with some converted Indians. From this harbor to Margarita, 12
leagues, they start toward evening and get to the island of Margarita
at dawn.

197. Twenty-seven leagues from the island of Margarita live the
Paria Indians, the best Indian tribe to be found in these parts; they
are Christians, very friendly with the Spaniards, and faithful vassals
of His Majesty, although quite bereft of anyone to instruct them

76 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in Christian doctrine. They are apportioned and pay tribute to their
encomenderos ; but neither the Bishop of Puerto Rico, who has them
under his charge, nor those who take pains to collect their tribute,
provide them with priests to catechize them and teach them the
doctrines of our Holy Faith—and yet they are baptized.

198. The island of Granada lies on a N. and S. line with the
island of Trinidad, some 24 leagues distant ; it is thickly peopled with
Carib Indians called Camajuyas, which means lightning from heaven,
since they are brave and warlike. Near this island they possess another
small one, called Potopoturo, inhabited by more than 500 Negroes
whom they hold in slavery from a Portuguese ship, which for its
misfortune blundered on that island ahead of its schedule, and they
murdered the Portuguese. There will be on this island and the other
inhabited Windward Islands, over 18,000 Indians.

199. These Granada Indians start out every year in late July or
early August with their dugout navies on robbing expeditions along
the whole coast of the Spanish Main, the islands of Trinidad and
Margarita and others, and they have carried off many Christian
Indians from them, eaten them up and devastated their land. These
savages are so cruel that there is no mercy for those who fall into
their hands, for they kill and eat them.

200. And it will aid the service of God and of His Majesty to
conquer them, bringing them under subjection or killing the male
Indians, by giving the commission to some powerful citizen of that
country, and thus getting rid of that pirates’ nest of savage cannibals ;
with them there, no security is possible in all the surrounding terri-
tories and islands; their conquest would bring quiet and tranquillity.

CHAPTER XIX

Of Other Rivers Lying between the Orinoco and the Marafi6n,
the Homes of Various Tribes.

201. The Rio Moruga, former home of the Aruaca tribe, is 5
leagues beyond the mouth of the Guaini; at its mouth the Moruga
unites with the mighty Rio Varuma, which has many arms, and is a
fine river with beautiful views, great forests, and some fruit trees,
and others with aromatic wood which is highly esteemed. It abounds
in varieties of birds which normally create sweet and dulcet harmony
with their songs, so that it seems like Paradise. This great river is
the home of three tribes, viz: Aruacas, Sapayos, and Panapios,
which differ very little in dialect.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA Fi,

202. Six leagues farther toward the Maranon lies the large Rio
de Mirare, likewise home of Aruaca Indians; 4 leagues beyond is
the Rio del Esequibo, a large deep river up which ships navigate over
20 leagues, nearly as far as the rapids, where a Carib tribe is settled,
hostile to the Aruacas. This river empties into the sea through three
mouths.

203. The Rio de Maicaguuin, though small, is very attractive ;
along its banks are handsome shady glades with various kinds of
trees, in which, and in those of the whole region, there are countless
hives of excellent honey, which various sorts of bees make from
flowers of great medicinal virtue, and there are quantities of wax;
in fact, all the hollows, trunks, and branches are loaded with honey-
comb, and the Indians collect a great deal, both for their sustenance
and for the production of the honey wine they drink, and also for
trade with the Spaniards.

204. Ten leagues beyond this river, the Rio de Berbis empties into
the sea; it is a large river and rich in fish, iguanas, and turtles; it is
bordered by extensive forests, likewise inhabited by Aruaca Indians.
Eighteen leagues farther toward the Marafion, the Rio de Corentines
empties into the sea, a very mighty river, larger than the others; its
banks are wild, but the river is deep, and therefore ocean ships can
travel up it for over 50 leagues. On this river the Dutch established
three settlements; they laid out extensive plantations of tobacco,
corn, cassava, and other cereals and vegetables, at the mouth of the
Amacur; but the nearby Spaniards of the cities of Santo Tomé,
Guiana, and of San Josef on the island of Trinidad, with great cour-
age and efforts, risks and dangers, came up there in their vessels, to
get rid of such bad neighbors before they received reinforcements,
and they drove them out and killed them. Their other settlement was
more than 40 leagues inland from the sea, on the Rio de Marataca,
which empties into the sea together with the Rio Corentines. These
rivers are the home of Carib tribes of dense population, which the
Dutch have infected with their perfidious heresies.

205. Ten leagues beyond the Corentines toward the Marafion, the
very mighty Rio de Vara empties into the sea; it is likewise the home
of these same Caribs. In this region there is another watercourse
running across from the Vara to the Corentines, deep and navigable ;
in fact, the tides pass from one river to the other, over a distance
of more than 20 leagues, the reason being that the land is very flat
and so the tides flow up these mighty rivers for more than 70 leagues
inland.

78 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

206. All this country has attractive landscapes, with trees tall and
shady, occupied by multitudes of birds which nest in them and create
sweet harmony with their variety of song; there are quantities of
graceful and interesting small animals, and in the rivers, abundance
of fish; all the banks and shores are covered with turtles, which are
a great staple for the tribes living as far up as the Guayapoco, which
is the original starting point of the Aruaca tribe.

207. The Panacaes tribe lives inland, at the source of the rivers
flowing into the Orinoco ; on that quarter they border on the Guayanes,
and on many other tribes extending to the Marafion; it would take
too long to enumerate them.

CHAPTER XX

Continuing the Description up to the River Marafion, with the
Tribes Living on Its Banks.

208. From the Orinoco to the Rio de Vara is a distance of 60
leagues, as indicated in this description of the country and the rivers ;
and from the Vara to the Rio Vicente Pinzon, just under 3° N., it
is 150 leagues. In this expanse there are many large rivers, not to
mention other smaller ones, the home of naked Indian tribes; most
of the rivers are navigable, and are coveted by foreign enemies who
desire to settle there and establish towns, thanks to the promise of
wealth in a country of gold mines and alluvial deposits, abundance
of agricultural products, valuable timber, balsam, and other aromatic
extracts derived from its trees, quantities of game birds, and plenty
of fish in the rivers.

209. From the Rio de Vicente Pinzon to the North Point of the
Marafion, it is 40 leagues; at 20 leagues comes the Rio Guayapoco,
original home of the Aruaca Indians; it has a famous harbor, where
the Dutch habitually careen and up-end their ships, both on account
of the excellence and security of the harbor and because there is
nobody in that region to molest them.

210. At the North Point of the Marafion lives the Mariguifies
tribe ; the province runs over 70 leagues up the banks of the Marafion
and inland; this tribe has a large population, with many settlements.
The houses in which they ordinarily live are tall, and though they go
naked, they are great farmers. The country runs to woods and
groves of valuable timber trees. Various kinds of bees produce quan-
tities of wax and honey. This province possesses great mountain
ranges, which promise much wealth in gold and silver mines, and
on their slopes there are plains and valleys good for cattle ranches

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 79

and farms, although some are liable to be flooded out. From this
province some rivers flow into the Marafion, providing good harbors
and anchoring places.

211. Adjoining this province is the tribe of the Tucujus, who are
in all respects similar to the Mariguifies; the chief rivers flowing
from this province into the Marafion are the Tucujus, from which
the province takes its name, and the Genipapo, with good anchoring
places and harbors. These have been settled and fortified by the
Dutch, and they have plantations there of tobacco, cotton, and other
fruit, cereals, and root crops.

212. Adjoining the Tucujts lies the Province of the Tapuyussts,
with many settlements running up to the great River Marafion cover-
ing over 80 leagues. This province begins at the Curupapixo or
Curupap channel. These Indians are savage; they fight with poisoned
arrows, and it cost us many men to conquer them; they state that
two provinces farther on comes the Province of Amazonas. All this
country is quite wooded and well forested, with the characteristics
of the other provinces.

213. The great River Marafion is 80 leagues wide at its mouth,
with over 3,000 islands ; the majority are inhabited by cannibal tribes ;
those nearest the North Cape are settled and inhabited by the Aruaca
tribe ; near these islands, toward Point Ozapararap, going E., lies the
island of the Nuanas, or IJuanas, and between this island and the
mainland runs the Great Para Channel.

214, Near the islands settled by Aruacas there are others much
smaller, inhabited by the Carib tribes of the Mapuazes and the
Inengaibas, who are ferocious cannibals. In front of these islands
and between the two channels, i.e., that of the Amazon and the Great
Para, which are 80 leagues apart, lie three very large islands, not to
mention other smaller ones; the one which is closest to the Amazon
Channel is 40 leagues long and 12 leagues across; it is inhabited by
the Jacaré tribe, which is very numerous, and it is quite wooded and
well forested. Near this lies another, the largest of all and in the
center of them, and inhabited by the Pacaxare and Jurutna tribes;
it is 45 leagues long and 20 across. Right next the Great Para Chan-
nel there is another island almost as long and wide as the last, in-
habited by the Andura and Pirapés tribes, with large settlements,
although they are unhealthy, both because they lie under the Equator
and because they are damp, hot, and heavily wooded.

215. After crossing the Great Para Channel going E., on the main-
land and opposite the islands just described, lies the province of
Tocantines ; beyond that tribe is that of the Pinotubas, and right next

8o SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

to them inland is that of the Turiguaras, a people who, though naked,
are teachable; they are great farmers, and the land is productive of
corn, cassava, and the other fruit, cereal, and root crops of the Indies.

216. Beyond this province and next the Rio Capi lives the tribe
of the Guaxaras; although they are peaceable like the others, they
are heathen, for lack of priests and ministers of the Gospel to teach
and instruct them in the doctrines of our Holy Faith.

CHAPTER XXI

Of the City of Belén, with a Description of Other Provinces about
the Maranon.

217. The city of Belén was founded by Capt. Francisco Caldera
Castelblanco in the year 1615 by the Great Para Channel on the
mainland in the Province of the Topinambus. It has 60 Spanish
residents, a parish church, Capuchin and Carmelite convents, and
three shrines; one is of Our Lady of the Rosary, headquarters of
the brotherhood of the soldiers of the military force and garrison
established by Capt. Benito Macier Pariente, with a roll of 200, when
he was Captain Major of that State; a second shrine is of Santa
Lucia; that of Our Lady of the Manger is in the fort.

218. This Province of the Topinambus, in which the city of Belén
was established, runs as far as the island of Aparcelada and the
rivers Miarri and Tapucurt, where over 500 Frenchmen were settled,
not counting women and children, with their Viceroy and Capuchin
friars. In the year 1614 Capt. Maj. Jeronimo de Alburquerque tried
to drive them out of the country, and he had many encounters with
them to this end, until in the year 1615 by order of His Majesty of
Brazil with the aid of Gen. Alexandro de Mora, he succeeded, and
the Frenchmen, no longer able to resist our troops, left the country
and decamped with all their people. At this spot where the French —
had their settlement, which they called Maranon, lies the island of
Todos Santos, with the city of Sao Luiz with 500 Spanish residents,
counting the soldiers of the garrison in the fortification of San
Felipe. It has a parish church and Carmelite, Capuchin, and Jesuit
convents, a hospital of Misericordia, and a shrine of Nuestra Sefiora
del Destierro.

219. Sixty leagues from the city of Belén in this Province of the
Tapinambus or Topinambus, at the site of Caite on the banks of
the Rio Guatacapu, there was established by Gov. Francisco de Car-
vallo in the year 1627 a settlement of Spaniards, both as a refuge
for travelers from the city of Belén to that of Sao Luiz, and to serve

| WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 81

as an army post, this warlike tribe of Indians having revolted and
gone to war in the year 1618, when we had nothing left but the
cities and garrisons of Belén and Sao Luiz; on various occasions
there were killed over 110 Spaniards.

220. The country having revolted and having been lost in this
manner, Capt. Benito Macier Pariente went and sought aid from
Brazil, and brought back from there 400 men, both Spaniards and
Indians, and in the year 1619 he entered this province and after
having numerous encounters with the Indians, he conquered them
and drove them back more than 200 leagues, as far as Batatan, in
the Province of Pacaxar.

221. Later, when this Benito Macier Pariente was Captain Major
of the city of Belén, he built an excellent fort there and provided it
with weapons and munitions; and in the 6 years that he governed
that State with great courage, he conquered 12 provinces and tribes
of heathen—those mentioned above; and in the year 1623 he ousted
the Dutch and English who had settled and ensconced themselves in
two forts they had on the Parnaiba channel, between the two islands,
and he had them dismantled; and that same year he fought with a
Dutch ship which was near the North Point fort, in the Province of
the Tucujus, and with only five small boats he forced it to surrender,
and the heretics set it on fire. In the year 1625 he fought with the
Dutch of the North Point fort and beat them; he had the fort dis-
mantled and captured and killed all who were in it; in fact, in the
three forts and the ship over 200 Dutchmen lost their lives, and
over 80 others are being held prisoners on the island of Todos Santos
and in the city of Sao Luiz.

222. In the year 1623 he had the Amazon channel sounded, by
order of His Majesty; the pilot for this task was Antonio Vicente
and he took soundings of the channel for more than 70 leagues; it
is very broad and deep; the depth is from 30 to 50 fathoms, although
there are shallows toward the islands. The deep channel is ordi-
narily 2 leagues wide, in some places more, and in some, less. The
Dutch who had intrenched themselves in the forts, navigated upstream
over 100 leagues, returning for fear of the great numbers of aborigines.

223. Capt. Roque de Chaves Ossorio, whom His Majesty has
graciously rewarded for his services with the post of Alcalde Mayor
of Tacuba and Tlanenepantla, near Mexico City, was 3 years in these
provinces, from 1612 to 1615, during which time he learned the
Topinambu language, which is general in these parts as far as the
Rio de la Plata; and thus he understood the Indians and was much
beloved by them. He traveled up the Rivers Munin, Tabucurt, and

7,

82 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Miarri, which flow into the Marafion; the Miarri is joined by the
Pinarré, the Maract, and the Oguaieup, all mighty rivers, the home
of various naked tribes. With the Topinambts of Qzapararap he
went many leagues up the Gran Para, to the Urucara mountain range,
where the Indians report great wealth of gold, and that on a certain
peak there are the footprints of an apostle and an animal following
him; and that the great River Amazon flows from the W. through
this region some 30 leagues away; the Indians call it Cufianceihuma,
which means women without men; they likewise call the river up
which he went with the Topinambu Indians as far as Carrupap and
the mountains of Itacuatiara, Araraup, which means stone of (many)
colors. These tribes are 4 days’ journey from the Amazon, and the
same Indians report that beyond the Amazon, not many suns, there
are people with clothing and a government. Capt. Roque de Chaves
Ossorio likewise confirms my description of the archipelago of
Marafion islands, for the time when he passed through them, and
also the fact that one passes through the channels between the
Pacaxas Islands to the Gran Para from the Amazon without going
out to sea, for he saw it all with his own eyes. This gentleman was
born in Mexico, where his forebears took part in the conquests; the
French carried him off from Brittany, where they had arrested him
in a harbor as a spy; when they were fighting with the Pacaxas
Indians, they left him among them at Qzapararap, and returned to
the Marafion, where the city of Sao Luiz and the island of Todos
Santos are located; but as I relate in this chapter, they were driven
out of the country by Capt. Maj. Jeronimo de Alburquerque.

CHAPTER XXII

Of the Extraordinary Fruit Growing in the Indies, and of That
on the Island of Trinidad.

224, In the Indies the land is in general very fertile and produc-
tive, particularly in all the hot countries, in which many sorts of
well-flavored fruit are usually raised; they have fruit on the trees
the whole year through, as will be described in the following note-
worthy cases.

225. The banana or plantain is a spongy sort of tree, very different
from other trees; it is about the thickness of a man’s thigh, or a little
more. It bears fruit only once, each shoot or sprout putting forth a
bunch of 40 or 50 bananas, more or less; and when it is ripe they
cut off both the bunch and the tree, and it is of no further use; and
although this tree does not bear more than once in its life, as they

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 83

say, it is the most abundant and usual fruit to be had at all times,
and is the stand-by of the poor. The leaf which the plantain puts
forth is like that of the sugarcane, but softer, and so large that a
single one will cover a man, and a banana plantation is as thick as a
field of cane. They are planted along the rivers or watercourses, as
the Holy Spirit says: “I grew up as a plane’ tree by the water” ; and
although the tree does not bear fruit more than once, it is always
producing suckers. There are many kinds of plantains and bananas ;
some are Io inches long or over; when they are unripe they have the
outer skin green; when ripe, yellow; when overripe, black; they are
the shape of a long radish; one peels off the outer skin, which is
soft, and the inner fruit is white, without any core or other impedi-
ment, white as blancmange; they have them medium-sized, tiny, and
of many varieties ; those from Guinea are better-flavored, small, cool-
ing, and somewhat nauseating; wherever you cut them, they take
the shape of a crucifix. They grow only in hot countries; there is
fruit on the tree all the year round; ordinarily they cut them when
it is the right time, and let them ripen after cutting.

226. The mammee is a tall tree, with thick foliage and spreading
branches like a walnut, although the leaves are larger; the fruit re-
sembles a large quince; the skin or rind is dark-colored and rough;
its flesh in color and taste is like that of a peach; it has two or three
stones larger than chestnuts and like them in the color and smooth-
ness of the husk.

227. The jocotes or jobos are the plums of the Indies, and the
size of ours; there are many varieties of them, though the most usual
are about like our Michaelmas plums; there are yellow, purple, and
red ones. The tree resembles an almond, and the leaves are similar,
though larger and juicier. They make good parsley from its sprigs,
which taste like tender onion shoots; the fruit is yellow and smooth,
and its flesh sweet, with something of a bitter flavor, and very juicy;
the stone is soft. In Jocotenango (Guatemala) and other places they
dry them and they are delicious.

228. The aguacate (alligator pear), which is called palta in Peru,
is a tall and luxuriant tree, of wide spread; its leaves are larger and
greener than apple leaves; its fruit is larger than a big king pear;
there are many varieties and shapes, some long like squashes, some
round. The rind is usually green and smooth, though there are some
like pippins with rind of two colors; the flesh is a yellowish white,
with a green tinge next the rind. It is a very healthful and delicious

1“Platanus” in Latin, which he confuses with plantain.

84 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

fruit, and is generally eaten with salt or sugar, and thus has an
excellent flavor and is very nutritious.

229. The sapote looks like a mammee tree, and the fruit is of
like size; the rind is dark-colored and rough, but the pulp is very
red and flesh-colored, and has an agreeable taste like preserves. It
has a kernel larger and longer than a chestnut, which it resembles in
color and smoothness; the seed inside is an excellent laxative. Its
leaves are like those of a pippin. They raise them generally in hot
regions; they grow wild also in the woods.

230. The pineapple resembles a bunchy thistle; it is cultivated like
an artichoke. The fruit is like a large pine cone; they peel off the
rind with a knife and cut it up into slices; its color is like that of a
peach, its flavor superior and juicier, sweet with a bittersweet tang.
This fruit grows only in the hot regions.

231. The custard-apple grows on a medium-sized tree like an
almond ; the fruit resembles a pine cone, of the color of an artichoke,
and tender when ripe; the flesh inside looks and tastes like blanc-
mange, with many smooth black seeds in it, pretty much like carob
beans. The white sapote looks like the custard-apple, but it is a
superior fruit in taste and general esteem.

232. The guava tree resembles a pomegranate ; its timber is heavy
and tough, its leaf is like a plum leaf, but somewhat larger and
coarser ; the fruit is like a pear; there are many varieties. When ripe,
it turns yellow; there are white ones also; the flesh is red in some,
yellow in others, with lots of seeds. It grows abundantly in all the
Indies, both cultivated and wild in the woods; those which are called
matos are an excellent and delicate fruit. To recent arrivals from
Spain, at their first taste of them, they seem to possess a bedbug odor.

CHAPTER XXIII

Continuing the Description of Fruit, and Other Matters.

233. The chiquisapote (sapodilla) is a tree like a laurel, with leaves
like those of the pippin; the fruit is the size of a pippin, with a thin
white and gray skin; its flesh is the color of peach preserves ; it is
an excellent and delicate fruit, with some seeds a bit larger than carob
beans. In New Spain they reckon it among their best fruits.

234, The pitahaya grows on a medium-sized tree, with leaves of
the type of mint leaves; the fruit is like a small sharp-pointed pine

cone; it is of a pleasant bittersweet taste, and has seeds like the
custard-apple.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 85

235. Guamuchi, guabo, and cuxinicuil are all the same thing, and
grow one and the same fruit, though with variations, in pods like
beans; the pulp inside is tender, sweet, and soft, and well-flavored ;
inside this pulp is a kernel of the shape of a peeled green bean. This
fruit grows in the hot regions ; in Honduras and Guatemala they are
small and are called coxinicuiles ; in Peru, guavos; they are of con-
siderable size. The tree resembles a tall pear tree; the leaves are
like carob leaves.

236. In the island of Trinidad and throughout that region grows
a root which is called guapo, white and the size of an egg; its leaves
grow about a foot long, and in size and smoothness are like a walnut’s,
though longer. This root is very nutritious and a godsend for the
poor ; it is roasted for eating, and tastes like a roast chestnut. With
it they make bread, porridge, and other dishes.

237. The caro is a tree bearing a fruit larger than a saucer and
twisted about like an ear; when it is ripe, it falls from the tree and
is of a chestnut color. To get out the kernel, it is put to soak; then
each yields a handful of nuts like almonds. These are roasted and
divested of their husks, coming out like peeled almonds in color and
taste; they make excellent dishes with them. The tree is tall and
smooth-barked, and the trunk bulkier than four casks; the timber is
very hard and tough; the ax does not exist that can cut or split it.
The heartwood is yellow and provides a dye like woad; the lumber :
is highly prized. This tree puts out so many aerial roots above ground
that a hundred men can hide among them, as if they formed trenches ;
and this has happened in those parts in enemy attacks, for ambush.

238. The charo tree is of the same size as the last; it bears a round
fruit like that of the strawberry tree; when they ripen and fall, the
animals all come and eat them; the rind is yellow and sweet. When
boiled they make good jam, like grapes; the kernel resembles a hazel-
nut, and tastes excellent roasted, like a roast chestnut, and is very
nutritious.

239. The purbo is a tree the height of a cedar; it bears fruit called
purbas, which taste, look, and smell like the muscadine pears of
Spain. It is a delicious fruit, and from it they make the beverage
purba, which is excellent and refreshing.

240. The icaco (coco-plum) is a small tree or bush grown along
the seacoast ; it bears red and white fruit, of the size of a damson
plum; this tastes sweet and has a soft center. The cometure is a
small tree which bears black fruit tasting like myrtleberries. The
pauji tree resembles the almond, with fruit like large plums, having
a delicious bittersweet flavor.

86 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

241, The papaya (papaw) is a smooth, spongy tree, which is utilized
in the Indies like the cork oak in Spain, and for rafts also; the leaves
all sprout out from the shoot, and the fruit round about it under
them. It bears the whole year, for the fruit does not ripen evenly ;
it reaches the size of good muskmelons; when ripe, it is yellow out-
side, with red flesh, and it tastes like a good melon; inside, it has
quantities of seeds of the size of black peppercorns, which taste like
cress ; they are good for digestive and other disorders.

242. In the Esequibo Valley, where the Aruaca tribe lives, there
are certain trees of such remarkable size as to be unbelievable to
those who have not seen the products of that country. The trunk
is bulkier than six wine pipes, and reaches a height greater than that
of a tall tower. It bears a large fruit in a husk bigger than a man’s
head, round and dark-colored; when ripe and fully seasoned, the
husk opens and the fruit falls out; each is bigger than one’s fist,
and of the same color and shape as an almond, except that it is gigan-
tic in comparison; the shell is somewhat rougher ; the almond inside
is larger than a big grafted chestnut, better-flavored and sweeter than
ours. This tree is to be found 4 leagues from the sea.

243. There is also a tree with striped wood out of which they make
their sword clubs; it is so tough that it can only be worked by saw-
ing, and with great difficulty; there is no ax that can dent it. It is
the most curious wood in the world; its heartwood is crystalline in
texture ; no jasper can vie with it, and it never rots.

244, On the island of Trinidad and in the other tropical forest
regions there are certain birds which the Indians call conotos, of the
size of doves, very handsome, with black and yellow plumage, a long
yellow bill, and an agreeable song. Heaven provided them with a
natural instinct such that, to keep monkeys and snakes from eating
their eggs and young, they pick out the tallest and most isolated trees,
and build their communities of nests in large numbers on the branches
which are thinnest, and farthest from the trunk and the big branches,
so that the monkeys and snakes cannot reach them without slipping
off and getting killed. They build nests 3 of a vara long, or more,
and so interwoven with twigs and mud that they do not get wet
even when it rains; they have only a hole on the side, through which
the birds get in, so that it is hard for enemies to enter without risking
their lives, the nests being so high up; and in this way they raise and
protect their young from such vermin.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 87

CHAPTER XXIV

Of the Provinces of the Cumanagotos and Palenques.

245. The Province of the Cumanagotos lies 12 leagues from
Araya Point, opposite the Borracha; it is an island lying across the
mouth of the Rio Cumanagoto, to the W. of Margarita; it runs length-
wise down the coast 12 leagues to the Rio de Unare, and crosswise it
reaches inland the plains and the country of the Caribs, across to the
other coast as far as the Gulf of Trinidad, running back of the Parias.
It is divided into three provinces, valleys, or sections, which are called
Aragua, Guere, and the Vergantin.

246. These Indians are brave and muscular, well built and war-
like. They paint their eyes (alcoholados) and use a gourd to cover
their private parts. This tribe will number over 30,000 Indians within
the area of 12 leagues square above described. They are great archers,
using poisoned arrows, the effects of which are practically always
fatal, since the poison is deadly ; the chief remedy and antidote is one’s
own filth dissolved and drunk with water or wine; another remedy is
ambir, the quintessence of tobacco, and benzoin dissolved and drunk
with water or wine.

247. The most warlike among them is a Christian Indian who was
raised from childhood on the island of Margarita, and who ran away
when he grew up; these savages elected him as their leader and chief ;
his name is Crist6bal Uriare. Among the Palenques inland there is
another chief whose name is Cafiadulce ; he is more well-disposed and
friendly toward the Spaniards, and if he goes to war against them,
it is because he is forced to by his tribesmen. Since their subjection
would be important from every viewpoint and would bring in a large
population, many have wished to effect it, and at the moment it is
desired and envisaged by Capt. Juan Ochoa, who is a leading wealthy
and important resident of Caracas; it would be highly fitting that he
be granted the favor of reducing them at his own expense and thus
doing away with a humiliating condition observed by everyone ; since
they are peaceably inclined, the remainder will be gradually brought
into the fold. This country is dry and with poor water supply; the
Indians drink from wells, or jagiieyes, as they call them in that country ;
and in the dry season it is common for them to wait in line to draw
water. They have many ranches of mares and horses they have stolen
from the Spaniards, and so they are well off and the great majority are
mounted on horseback.

88 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXV

Of the Founding of the City of San Juan of the Lagoon of Uchire.

248. On the other side of the provinces and tribes just mentioned,
next the provinces of the Cumanagotos and Palenques, lies the
Province of Uchire, with toward 2,000 Indians of that tribe; and in
this has been established the city of San Juan de la Laguna, so called
because of a lagoon beside it which contains quantities of delicious fish.
In this lagoon, which is connected with the sea, the high tide brings
great numbers of fish, particularly lebranches, which are like bream
but somewhat larger, and various other fish, which fill up this lagoon ;
at dead water they close its mouth, the Uchire and Palenques Indians
having previously set weirs made of stakes around and across the
mouth of the lagoon; and when the ebb starts, its force drives the
fish toward the sea; and with nothing but this device, such quantities
of fish land in the traps (barbacoas) they have set in these enclosures
that with their abundance they supply all those provinces as far as
Caracas, especially for Lent. There are likewise salt pans in this
same lagoon, from which they supply themselves and sell it to the
Caribs and all the adjoining tribes.

249. The city of San Juan de la Laguna was founded and settled by
Capt. Juan Garcia Carrasco, a native of the city of Caracas, in the
year 1599. After he had shared in the conquest and settlement of the
city of San Sebastian, having been one of its chief founders, he came
over with his establishment, children, brothers, and friends, and sub-
dued the Province of Uchire, founding there the above-mentioned city
and maintaining it ever since the conquest and settlement at his own
expense. With his own income he pays a priest to say Mass for them
and administer the Holy Sacraments, and catechize and instruct the
Indians in our Holy Faith, without any assistance from the Governors
of Cumana or Caracas; indeed, they refused, since they claimed that
it was for his own honor and glory that Captain Carrasco took over
and maintained this tract so long a time with so much courage.

250. And although with his invincible spirit and excellent admin-
istration he has tried to continue annexing territory and subdue and
attract the natives to acquaintance with our Holy Faith, he has been
unsuccessful, owing to the strong opposition of the Governors and to
the proximity of the Cumanagotos, Palenques, and Caribs of the
plains, who live next the Orinoco and are cannibals; all these tribes
fear and respect him because of the courage with which he has been
able to sustain the Uchire tribe, defended by Captain Carrasco and his
Spaniards. The city counts 25 Spanish residents, having had at times

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 89

as few as a dozen; it would be very fitting to grant support to this
settlement, and that Captain Carrasco and his son Juan Garcia Carrasco
should be honored and rewarded for the great courage with which
they took over these regions and maintained a city there; rewarding
such services would carry forward the conversion of souls and the
service of His Majesty.

251. The city is built 4 leagues from the Rio de Unare, which is the
highway the Cumanagoto Indians must follow when they come to get
the guarema plant, with which they dye their yarn, hammocks, and
other things; it is a fine dye, exactly walnut color. To get this plant
they go to the western district of the jurisdiction of Caracas, 45 leagues
from the city of the Lagoon; and such is the valor of Captain Carrasco
and his men that he forces these Cumanagoto Indians, when they pass
his abode on their journey for the guarema plant, to surrender their
arms, to wit, their bows and arrows, in token of peace and submission,
and each of them offers him an ear of corn to be allowed to pass, thanks
to the valor of this Captain Carrasco, who has known how to make
himself honored and respected, though with so few companions, in the
midst of such large and savage tribes, keeping them all at bay and
obedient to him.

252. One should likewise consider how important it is that the
Cumanagoto Indians should be subdued and converted as they easily
can be, to the knowledge of our Holy Faith and to the service of His
Majesty; there are more than 30,000 Indians among them, without
counting women and children ; but we have not been able to accomplish
this, thanks to the opposition of the Devil, who tries to keep his prey
from being torn from him; in fact, when his Militia Captain Magal-
lanes was commissioned to carry out this conquest in 1621, the Gov-
ernors of Cumana and Caracas hindered instead of helping him, for
their own private ends, sending news to him which alarmed him, so
that he was unsuccessful and the campaign was abandoned as a result
of their intrigues.

258. His Majesty and the Royal Council of the Indies can remedy
this state of affairs by entrusting the pacification of the Cumanagotos
and Palenques to some important person whom the Governors will not
oppose but will aid with supplies and services, and for this purpose he
should not be subordinate to them or dependent on them; for then
they will be subdued easily and all that country will be pacified and
those poor heathen rescued from the blindness in which the Devil is
keeping them, and they will come to the knowledge of our Holy Faith.
In this district grows what is called the palo de Uchire, a tree of high

go SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

medicinal value ; its bark when ground up and drunk with wine or water
or broth is a potent remedy for bloody flux and other illnesses.

254. In this district and that of Caracas there are also many kinds
of poisonous snakes, whose bite is fatal; and although there are many
remedies for snake bite, the best and most efficacious is the snake-
grass, whose other name is bejuquillo (ipecacuanha) and which grows
in swamps or lakes where there is plenty of water. This is of such
great potency against all sorts of poisons that if one pounds up the
plant and anoints oneself with the juice, or rubs one’s arms with the
plant, and one’s legs from halfway down the thigh, one is protected
for all time; no viper or other poisonous snake can bite or sting him.
It was a mestizo, native of Cumana, who discovered the virtue of this
plant and spread the knowledge ; and they have such experience of the
great virtue of this plant that they hunt up vipers and snakes and incite
them to bite them, and if they are anointed with this plant, no matter
how much they annoy and disturb them, they will not bite or do any
harm or damage. Glory be to God who placed such great virtues in
herbs as antidote and safeguard against such fatal venom.

CuHaprpTerR XXVI

Of the District of the Provinces of the Diocese and State of
Venezuela.

255. Next to the province of the Cumanagotos and the city of
San Juan of the Lagoon of Uchire, along the same coast to the W., lie
the district and Provinces of Venezuela, commonly called of Caracas,
after the city of Santiago de Leon de Caracas, since that is the largest
and richest in that Diocese and district.

256. The city of Santiago de Leon, called Caracas, is situated in a
pleasant valley or plain between two mountain ranges 4 leagues inland
from the port of La Guaira, the principal port for the city, and with a
hot climate. Setting out for Caracas from the harbor one keeps climb-
ing all the time up a mountain range and steep slope, where it is cool,
and from there one drops a little to the city, which has a springlike
climate. It lies at 9° N. and has 300 Spanish residents, as well as many
Negroes and mulattoes, both free and slaves, and Indian serfs. It is a
great trading and commercial center, both from its nearness to the port
and because of the abundance of local products, such as the great
quantity of cacao gathered in the plantations which the residents own
along the coast for many leagues running; so they are rich and free
from care in consequence of the value and high yield of the cacao for
the manufacture of chocolate. They raise quantities of corn and wheat

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA gi

and transport the meal and flour in ships and frigates to Cartagena,
Havana, Santo Domingo, and other Windward Islands ; they raise also
in abundance in this district the other Spanish cereals and those native
to the country.

207. They have large cattle ranches producing quantities of hides
which are shipped to Spain; excellent mule ranches; and likewise
abundance of swine and sheep. The mules are exported to the King-
doms of Peru via the New Kingdom of Granada.

258. Close by the city runs a little river of sweet and crystal-clear
water, which rises in the neighboring sierras; these have veins and
deposits of gold underlying them, and so they get gold from the river,
although for lack of Indians they neither prospect nor pan for it. A
large canal from this river runs through the center of the city and they
provide themselves with water from it; and so, with its abundance of
water, the excellent climate, bright skies, and invigorating air, the city
is a bit of Paradise ; they have made it one great park with its quanti-
ties of gardens full of very handsome and fragrant flowers and rose-
bushes, which bloom the whole year through ; they have great numbers
of fruit trees, both native varieties and those of Spain, which yield
abundantly; their grapevines bear excellent early grapes every 4
months, thanks to the admirable climate, which is uniform and without
change for the entire year, and to the rich soil.

259. Since this city is the largest, richest, and healthiest in the
province and possesses a harbor, it is the usual residence of the Bishop
and Governor of these provinces. It contains a very fine parish church,
though this is not the Cathedral, which is in the city of Coro, but
eventually it will have to be transferred here, as Caracas is growing
so rapidly. It has two convents, one Dominican and one Franciscan.
There is a hospital named San Pablo, which cares for indigent sick, and
a shrine of the glorious martyr San Mauricio. At the present time they
are establishing a nunnery there.

260. Round about the city there are numerous streams coming
down from all those mountain ranges, which irrigate and fertilize its
valleys and meadows; in these they sow and reap abundance of wheat
twice a year ; corn is continually being planted and harvested, and they
have abundance of other vegetables and garden produce. They grow
excellent cabbages, which weigh as much as an arroba. The whole
year through they have quinces and peaches, and the other fruit trees
of Spain yield abundantly.

g2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXVII

Of the Pioneers in These Provinces.

261. These provinces were discovered and subdued by that great
Capt. Juan Rodriguez Suarez, whose virtues and valiant deeds have
never been fully celebrated or magnified. After he had subdued and
explored other large provinces and established some settlements in
them, among which he founded Mérida in 1547, and after he had
pacified all the country, for the Indians feared and loved him, he set
out exploring and subduing numerous other provinces to the E., in
what is called Venezuela; and having passed through New Valencia
exploring and subjugating, in the year 1557 he reached the provinces
of the Caracas, Teques, Quiriquires, and other large and populous
provinces inhabited by various tribes of powerful and warlike savages ;
and having pacified the greater part of them by his valor and that
of the few Spaniards he had with him, and seeing that the land was
fertile, with splendid valleys rich in gold and other metals and suitable
for settlement, he chose the spot which was called Caraballeda after
the cacique of that valley, which lies on the seacoast 2 leagues from
the port of La Guaira; and there he founded a city which he named
Our Lady of Caraballeda, from which to set out exploring and sub-
duing all those tribes ; and this distinguished captain continued doing
this till the year 1560, when the whole country was pacified ; then he
got word that the adventurer Lope de Aguirre had landed at the
Borburata the end of that year and was robbing and devastating the
country inland. This news spurred that valiant captain to spring to
its defense, as befitted the loyal servant of his king; and as a great
number of savages came out against him on the coast of Terepaima,
he attacked them with his little force of Spaniards, till they all died in
the fray; and this great captain, having done wonders with his valor
and having killed countless Indians, being overcome with heat and
thirst, but not vanquished, leaned against a tall rock (the Indians not
daring to approach him) and there yielded up his soul to God. And
so great was his valor and the reputation he enjoyed among them, that
it was 3 days after his death before the savages ventured to approach
him ; they poked him with long poles, and having thus assured them-
selves that he was dead, they gave vent to deep sorrow, lamenting his
death and saying that such a captain ought not to have died; finally
they buried him with great lamentations, and thus the new city was
abandoned and the country was again hostile.

262, At this time the adventurer Lope de Aguirre was killed by
Capt. Diego Garcia de Paredes, and his rebellious army conquered ;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 93

and when they had dealt out justice to the most guilty, and pacified
the country, they got word of the death of the great Capt. Juan
Rodriguez Suarez and his men and of the abandonment of the new
city of Caraballeda in consequence of the rebellion and uprising of the
Caracas, Terepaimas, and other adjoining tribes.

263. Gen. Diego de Losada, having received this news and con-
sidering the great wealth of that region, decided to go and chastise
the savages and pacify the country again; and so in the year 1564 he
announced the campaign and began raising a force for it; volunteers
flowed in from many quarters, and out they went to conquer, valiant
captains and soldiers, and among them Capt. Diego de Henares, Alonso
Galeas as Captain of the cavalry troop, and Gabriel de Avis, Royal
Ensign, and Capt. Sebastian Diaz, Garci Gonzalez, Francisco Infante,
Lazaro Vazquez, Baltasar Mufioz, Pedro de Madrid, Agustin de
Ancona, and other valiant captains and soldiers, who all together
numbered 130 Spaniards. They entered these provinces of Caracas
the following year, 1565, and suffered great hardships, having numer-
ous encounters with the heathen, in which many of them were con-
quered and killed; and thus they avenged the death of Capt. Juan
Rodriguez Suarez and his men, having subdued the natives and again
pacified the country.

264. In the year 1566, after a reconnoissance of the whole country
and its best locations, this Gen. Diego Losada chose as a suitable site
for founding and settling a city, a splendid valley, fertile and attractive,
named Caracas and lying between two mountain ranges 4 leagues from
the harbor of La Guaira; and after cruel skirmishes and battles with
the savages, since they saw they could not withstand the valor of the
Spaniards, they rendered obedience to him on the day of Santiago, and
so he founded the city on that day and gave it the name of Santiago de
Leon; it lies 6 leagues from that of Caraballeda, which was the first
founded, and is likewise called Caracas, after the Indian tribe and
cacique of this country, who rendered obedience.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Of the City of Santiago de Leon de Caracas, of Other Matters
Regarding These Provinces, and of the Valiant Deeds Accomplished
by the Spaniards.

265. After founding the new city, the valiant Spaniards did not
cease their conquests, bringing those heathen to the knowledge of our
Holy Faith and the service of His Majesty. Among these, the valiant
Capt. Garci Gonzalez distinguished himself ; after the distribution of

94 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the land, he proceeded into the tribe of the Teques. One night they used
treachery toward him and Francisco Infante, seized their weapons,
beat Francisco Infante severely with their sword clubs and left him
for dead. At the barking of a dog he had, Garci Gonzalez rushed out ;
and failing to find his weapons, he faced the savages with a long
cavalry spur as they rushed to attack him, and defended himself with
this spur, wounding and killing many of them, so that, with his courage
and strength, he put them to flight and they did not venture to stand
up to him; and so he loaded his companion on his shoulders, the
Indians having left him in the state described above, and staved death
off till help arrived ; and he dealt summary chastisement upon them, in
which he was greatly aided by a fearless dog named Tiburon (Shark)
who was put on the pay roll because of the havoc he wrought in these
campaigns. On another occasion, at Nirva, the savages had his soldiers
surrounded and in manifest danger; he was in armor on horseback,
and between his soldiers and him lay a deep ravine, impossible to cross
without dropping down into it ; he found a huge tree trunk lying across
it, and there being no other recourse available, he spurred his horse on
over this dangerous passageway, a brilliant proof of bravery ; and thus
he dashed into the midst of the enemy, spreading wide destruction and
death among them; and so he came out victorious and rescued his men ;
and I have heard that it is called the Ravine of Garci Gonzalez. He
left three valiant sons, viz, Capt. Gaspar de Silva, Sgt. Maj. Baltasar
Gonzalez de Silva, and Ensign Diego de Silva, and they have copied
him in everything as befitted sons of such a father.

266. Capt. Diego de Henares Lezama was one of the most respected
soldiers whom Gen. Diego de Losada had in his camp, and on every
occasion offered in peace or war, he showed great valor; in his cam-
paigns he maintained numerous soldiers, heading them in expeditions
to pacify the Indians and put down enemies. The city being newly
founded and the General away, this Capt. Diego de Henares with the
major part of his soldiers was left in charge of its defense; and on
this occasion over 5,000 Indians came up resolved to destroy it and
kill all those who were in it. For this purpose they sent ahead three
Indians as spies under the guise of peace, to find out what defense they
had ; but his native shrewdness penetrated that of the spies, and on the
following night with part of the soldiers he had, he fell upon the
Indians at midnight, broke them up, and drove them asunder; but he
would not allow an Indian to be killed; instead, by his diligent care
he reduced them to obedience, and they remained peaceful. He dis-
covered many gold mines and rendered many other special services ;
he was responsible for an increase in the royal patrimony ; and finally,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 95

he was one of the leaders in establishing order in the city and in
furthering its development. He was of the nobility, a native of Bara-
caldo, Vizcaya, of the Lezama family of Iraurigui, one of the oldest
and noblest of that seigniory. Thanks to his excellent conduct and his
cautious procedure, the Governors often named him Lieutenant Gover-
nor and Captain General of those provinces, until he left those parts
and went over into Guiana, where he died; and Juan de Lezama con-
tinues his services.

267. Capt. Lazaro Vazquez was no less successful in deeds of valor
in his campaigns, but I omit them, for brevity’s sake and because they
are well known; he left two sons, Capt. Domingo Vazquez, and Capt.
Juan Vazquez, in all respects the pattern of their father’s prowess.
Capt. Baltasar Munoz likewise distinguished himself among the others
in those expeditions, and left sons who copied his valor—Capt. Melchor
Mufioz, Francisco Munoz, and Baltasar Mufioz, all of whom died in
the course of subjecting those regions to the service of their king.
And Capt. Josef Munoz, after serving in those provinces, left them
for service in the galleons of the trade route to Spain, and in the
garrisons, where he spent many years; and in the year 1625 he hap-
pened to be in Puerto Rico on the occasion of the Dutch corsair’s
attack, when Juan de Haro was Governor of the island and city, and
so distinguished hithself among the others by his exploits, intelligence,
and prowess, that the Governor took note of it and entrusted and
charged him with business and military commissions of importance for
which occasion arose, and he always gave a good account of himself,
as would be expected from such confidence placed in him; such are
the sons that that country raises and breeds, and they have supported
and are supporting it with the valor they acquired and inherited from
their fathers; and Capt. Diego de Henares Lezama likewise distin-
guished himself in these expeditions. And all the other pioneers were
of no less worth, for thanks to their prowess and that which they
bequeathed to their sons so that they should not fall behind them, they
have maintained their country, exploring and conquering all that they
could. And since such persons are deserving and worthy of being
remembered, it seemed worth while to me to make this little diversion
so that in the future they may receive the reward of their labors.

268. Capt. Pedro Alonso Galeas (the man responsible for the total
annihilation of the traitor Aguirre) who belonged to the cavalry, was
in all respects valiant, and of service in conquering those provinces.
He was the leading settler of Caracas, and married Dofia Inés de
Mendoza, sister of Marshal Gutierre Lopez de la Pefia, by whom he
had doughty sons, of whom there have survived Gabriel de Mendoza,

96 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102
Councillor of the Holy Office for those provinces, and Captains Juan
Rangel, Diego de Mendoza, and Francisco de Mendoza, and three
daughters married to noble residents of that city, which he helped to
occupy and colonize. After accomplishing many mighty deeds, with
which he has left his fame immortalized and transmitted honor to his
sons, he died in the year 1595 at the age of 115 years, having held
honorable offices in the republic.

CHAPTER XXIX

Of the Boundaries of These Provinces, and of Other Cities Which
Have Been Founded in Them.

269. These provinces of the Diocese and State of Venezuela are
bounded on the W. by the State and Diocese of Santa Marta, along the
Rio de la Hacha on the coast of the Spanish Main; on the E. they are
bounded by the Provinces of the Cumanagotos and Cumana; and on
the S. by Santo Tomé and the Provinces of Guiana; on the WSW.
by the district of Mérida in the Archdiocese of Santa Fé of the New
Kingdom of Granada. All these provinces are very fertile and abound
in wheat, corn, and other crops, with large cattle and mule ranches;
there are rich gold mines 1n them.

270. The first and most important city founded and settled in these
provinces was the city of Coro, which the Indians called Coriana. It
was founded by Capt. Juan de Ampues in the year 1528 in a plain at
a point 11° N., 2 leagues inland; it has a good climate ; the air is dry
and wholesome. This city is the capital of the State and Diocese, and
contains the Cathedral, with several Prebendaries who reside there and
conduct services ; it will have as many as 100 Spanish residents, with
a Franciscan convent. But it has gone downhill, and the Bishop and
Governor of these provinces reside ordinarily in the city of Caracas,
which is the largest and wealthiest in these provinces and lies at a
distance of 100 leagues to the E. of Coro.

271. The city of Caracas is situated at 9° N.; it has a marvelous
springlike climate; the country is so very rich in gold that when it
rains, the boys search for it in the roads running in the arroyos, and
this is the case all through the country. Forty leagues to the E.,
toward Cumanagoto, there are rich mines of 224-carat gold, called
San Juan de Apa y Carapa, from which enormous wealth has been
taken, although they are not worked today for lack of labor, the Indians
having dwindled, which fact is a general curse in the Indies.

272. In its territory along the seacoast, which has a hot climate, it
has fertile valleys and meadows for a distance of over 40 leagues,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA Q7

which have been planted ever since 1615 in large cacao orchards and
plantations, which bear harvests of cacao in great abundance. They
brought down these cacao trees from the sierras and ridges of the inland
country, where there were great thickets and woods of wild cacao, in
which the cacao trees sprang up, climbed, and overtopped the other
trees in their path sunward ; they made up great bundles of these wild
trees, transplanted them and created plantations and ranches with these
cacao trees and fruit trees, thus enriching the country and its inhabi-
tants ; these trees are not as delicate to raise as those in New Spain
and Honduras.

273. The province of the Quiriquires lies 24 leagues FE. of Caracas,
on the direct route to the Provinces of Guiana, in which the city of
Santo Tomé is located. This province of the Quiriquires was sub-
dued by Capt. Sebastian Diaz de Alfaro, who went as General of the
expedition; with him, in the year 1585, were Captains Diego de
Henares, his son Juan de Lezama, Mateo Diaz, Andrés de San Juan,
Juan Garcia, Mateo de Haya, and other soldiers; and after having
some encounters with the heathen, they reduced them to a state of
peace, and since the country was suitable and had wide pasture lands,
they established the city of San Sebastian in a meadow that same
year ; it has a hot climate, and counts 70 Spanish residents. The chief
specialty of this region is large cattle ranches, which produce quanti-
ties of hides which are shipped to Spain.

274. It was from this city of San Sebastian that Diego de Henares
Lezama and his son Juan de Lezama started on their exploration and
conquest of Guiana and E] Dorado, where the father died in His
Majesty’s service; and Juan Lezama was continuing his service when
the corsair Walter Raleigh came up the Orinoco with 10 naval vessels
and 1,500 men, to settle down and fortify themselves in those
Provinces of Guiana, in the year 1618. This Capt. Juan Lezama with
great courage gathered together the residents of the city, as has been
narrated in chapter XI, and fought with the enemy till he drove them
out of the country ; and when he had informed His Majesty of the
death of the Governor and of the condition of those who survived, the
King wrote the city a letter of the following tenor:

275. “The King to the Council, Judiciary, and Administration of
Santo Tomé of Guiana. Your letter of Jan. 26 of this year has been
received and considered in my War Council (Junta de Guerra) of
the Indies. In it you relate what occurred in the capture of that city,
and the death of Gov. Diego Palomeque de Acuna, and how the
residents of the city are badly off. I am particularly grateful to such
good and loyal vassals, since, though so few in numbers and taken

8

98 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

unawares, you defended yourselves so courageously ; and so I charge
you that on such future occasions as may present themselves, you
so continue, since not only is it to your own interest to accomplish
such a glorious task, but still more to the interest of the Catholic
religion against its enemies, the heretics ; and this cause shall not rest
without satisfaction, to which end negotiations are being carried on
with the seriousness which the situation demands; and for whatever
emergencies of this sort may arise in the future, you will correspond
with the Governors of Puerto Rico and Cumana. I have sent them
orders to send men to aid you, and the Governor of Puerto Rico is
to ship you immediately 8 quintals of powder, 20 muskets and the
same number of harquebusses with all their gear, and 2 quintals
of gun matches (cuerda) and 4 of lead, which is the amount that
appears necessary to fit out the entire number of you who remain
there ; and you will take all possible care of these arms and munitions,
storing them in some public place where they will be held in respect
against the time of need, or distributing them under responsible assur-
ance to the persons who seem to you most fitting for your defense.
From San Lorenzo el Real, on the 18th of September of the year
1618. I the King. By command of the King our Lord, Juan Ruiz
de Contreras.”

CHAPTER XXX

Of Other Cities in These Provinces of Venezuela.

276. The city of Nueva Valencia was founded by Captain Villa-
sinda in the year 1540 close by the seacoast, 7 leagues from La
Borburata, and 24 W. of Caracas; it will count about 100 Spanish
residents. It has next it the Province of Nirtia, the Indians of which
are called Jirajaras; they are sturdy and brave, and at present are
unsubdued. The province abounds in everything, is beautiful to look
upon, and is rich in gold ore of fine quality, but since these savages
are warlike, this province does not yield the wealth to be expected
from the gold everywhere under its soil. To reach the other localities
in this State and Diocese, one must travel through the midst of these
savages, with escorts of soldiers clothed in cotton wadding as far as
the knees, which they call escaupiles, against the poisoned arrows
which they shoot. It is 24 leagues’ journey to the village of Caroa
in the jurisdiction of Barquisimeto, which is 39 leagues from
Valencia.

277. The city of Nueva Segovia de Barquisimeto, resembling in its
situation and river the Segovia of Spain, was founded and settled by
Capt. Juan de Villegas in the year 1552. It is famous because of the

——

—

ee

-WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 99

death there at the end of the year 1561 of the rebel Lope de Aguirre.
It will contain 60 Spanish residents, with a church and Franciscan
convent. It lies 60 leagues to the SW. of Coro, and 12 from Tucuyo.
On one border of Barquisimeto, 20 leagues toward Coro, lies the
city of Carora, with 60 Spanish residents, a church, and a Franciscan
convent ; it is a rich region and the best mules in those provinces are
raised there and exported to Peru and elsewhere.

278. The city of Tucuyo was founded by Captain Carvajal in the
year 1550; it will contain 100 Spanish residents, with a parish church
and Dominican and Franciscan convents ; it has a good climate. They
raise quantities of corn and wheat in its district, and transport the
meal to the Lake of Maracaibo, to be shipped to Cartagena and else-
where; they have cattle and mule ranches. It is 53 leagues from
Coro, and 32 from the city of Guanare, toward the plains of Barinas,
where they raise the best tobacco brought from the Indies; it was
founded by Capt. Juan Fernandez de Leon in the year 1586. Eight
leagues from this city of Tucuyo, back of Carora on the Campuzano
mountain range, there are creatures called salvages (wild men),
unique in the whole world; they have the build and proportions of
human beings in every respect except that that they are covered with
hair some 6 inches long, of a color between dark gray and silvery ;
they do not talk.

279. The city of Trujillo was founded by Capt. Diego Garcia de
Paredas in the Province of Cuicas in the year 1559, after he had
subdued and pacified the country, in a valley between very high
sierras ; the whole country is very rough. It will contain 200 Spanish
residents, with a church and Dominican and Franciscan convents.
There were over 100,000 Indian tribute payers in this province when
it was conquered ; at present there are very few, for they have wasted
away and died. The country is rich in gold and silver ore; it has
large cattle and mule ranches; they gather quantities of cacao, corn,
wheat, and other crops, all of which they take over to the Lake of
Maracaibo for shipment ; it is 65 leagues from Coro, 25 from Tucuyo,
and 24 from the city of Mérida in the Archdiocese of Bogota, which
adjoins these provinces to the W.

280. The Lake of Maracaibo is the shipping place of the products
of these provinces and of those of Mérida and Pamplona in the New
Kingdom of Granada, for it is from there that they export them to
Cartagena, Santo Domingo, and other points. This lake belongs to
the district of the Diocese and State of Venezuela ; it is a fresh-water
lake, and runs 40 leagues inland; it is 10 leagues wide and 80 in
circumference, with several settlements on its shores. Its chief harbor,

100 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

where the flour and other products of the State await shipment, is
Las Barbacoas, so called because the Indians have built their habita-
tions there over the water or in the trees, to protect themselves against
the mosquitoes. The Spaniards come down to this harbor for the
departure of the frigates.

281. The city of Zamora on the Lake of Maracaibo has a marvelous
and delightful outlook, salubrious air and bright skies ; it is abundantly
provisioned and a pleasant spot. It contains a church and a Fran-
ciscan convent; the water of the lake washes against its houses. It
lies 6 leagues from the outlet to the sea, 12 from the port of Las
Barbacoas, and 50 from Coro. Several rivers of this State empty into
the lake, and others from the New Kingdom of Granada, notably the
mighty Rio de Zulia, which rises at Pamplona, and down which they
transport its products. This lake empties into the sea; its mouth is half
a league wide, and has a reef and rocks which act as a bar, so that
only frigates can enter. They say that this province got the name of
Venezuela (little Venice) because of this lake, where the Indians live
“en barbacoas” (cabins in trees or over water) in the lake, as has
been narrated above.

CHAPTER XXXI

Continuing the Description of the Provinces of Venezuela, and the
Strange Things To Be Found in Its Territory.

282. Venezuela, in the language native to that country, means big
water, from the great Lake of Maracaibo which lies in its district,
as if one should say “the province of the big lake.” It was the
Vélsares, Germans, who came out to this province to govern it in the
year 1528, having made a contract with His Imperial Majesty,
Charles V, to settle and subdue those provinces ; but they never accom-
plished anything of value or importance, for the glory, after God, is
due to the valor of the invincible Spaniards, who with great hard-
ships and trials accomplished so many famous deeds in those regions,
at their own expense, risking their lives to immortalize their fame, and
succeeding in both efforts, though the majority of their descendants
are poor and unrewarded.

283. In these provinces there are some mines called Cocorote, rich
in gold ore and veins, but no longer worked and exploited for lack of
labor. At these mines there are very remarkable tall trees ; their trunk
is bulkier than a pipe of wine, and their bark is green, thick and full
of sap. If one drives a knife into it or makes a hole in it, a natural
milk oozes out, like cow’s milk in color and taste; when cooked it

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA IO!

forms a sort of whipped cream, and they make excellent rice pudding
with it, and other delicious dishes; whoever sees or tastes 1t would
take it for natural cow’s milk.

284. A river runs down from these mines, navigable in canoes as
far as La Borburata, and very rich in fish; they catch great quantities
of fish in it, as well as in other rivers of this State, with nets made
of the leaves of a cane, which they call cogollo (shoot) ; these they
put into pools; they grind up the root of the plant “barbasco” and
throw it into the streams at noon under the blazing sun, and it poisons
the fish so that they float bottom up; thus they catch great quantities
of them, with which they provide all the country inland.

285. There are in these provinces and this State, as in many
tropical regions in the Indies, many honeycombs in the woods; the
bees build them in the trees whose flowers they exploit, and particu-
larly the jobo or jocote tree, like our Michaelmas plums. There is a
very tall tree like a walnut, which they call mijagua; it bears fruit
resembling dried plums, but larger and sweeter, and delicious fruit
for invalids.

286. There are wild walnuts loaded down with small thick-shelled
nuts and whole woods of wild apples of the same sort as ours; the
trees that bear them are much larger than our apple trees, with leaves
like laurel leaves; the apples taste somewhat sourer than ours, but
that is due to their not being cultivated. They have many spice trees—
liquidambar, canime, and balsam—which diffuse much fragrance ;
benzoin, dragon’s blood and other medicinal extracts, gums, and
fruits.

287. There is such a variety of animals and birds that one cannot
possibly enumerate them. Back of these provinces and this State, in
the plains to the S., between Caranaca, which is called El Dorado, and
the New Kingdom of Granada, there are extensive heathen Indian
tribes called Guamonteyes and other tribes, who could easily be con-
verted to the Faith. Whenever the Spaniards enter that country on
some expedition, they serve and aid them with great humility, and
without treachery, for they are simple, naked people, without malice.

288. This Diocese is bounded on the W. by that of Santa Marta
and on the WSW. by the Archdiocese of Santa Fé de Bogota of the
New Kingdom of Granada at the city of Mérida; on the S. by heathen
Indians, and on the E. by the State of Nueva Andalucia and Cumana,
which is at present within the Diocese of Puerto Rico; and although
Caracas is on the Spanish Main, since it falls within the Secretariat
of New Spain and is suffragan to Santo Domingo, I have put it at this
point in the description.

TO2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXXII

Of the Island of Cuba, Its Size, and the Cities Established in It.

289. The island of Santiago de Cuba lies 15 leagues to the W. of
Hispaniola, reckoning from the Cape of San Nicolas to the Point of
Maisi in this island of Cuba; it is 250 leagues long from E. to W.,
from Cape Maisi at the E., within sight of Hispaniola, to Cape San
Anton, the westernmost of this island. At its widest point from N.
to S., it measures from 45 to 50 leagues, and at its narrowest, 12,
between Matamano and Havana; it is over 600 leagues in circum-
ference; it lies between 20° and 21° N. Most of its territory is level,
with great woods and forests, and abundance of native fruits, wild
grapes, palms, and many sorts of valuable timber ; the rivers are of
clear water and full of delicious fish. There are mines of gold, silver,
copper, and other metals. Dr. Soldrzano describes the island with
great erudition in “De Jure Indiarum,” book I, chapter 6, folio 64,
No. 12.

290. It was Admiral Diego Velazquez who subdued and pacified
Cuba, and the first city he founded and settled in the island was
Santiago de Cuba, at 20°30’ N., in the year 1511, on the S. coast,
2 leagues from the sea, with a grand harbor, very safe and deep. At
the start it was a large city; at present it has a few more than 80
Spanish residents. It contains the Cathedral of the island, with a few
Prebendaries who are in residence and conduct services; there are a
Dominican and a Franciscan convent, a hospital, and other pilgrimage
shrines. The Governor resides there, appointed by His Majesty, in
consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies ; he has under his
jurisdiction all the Spanish settlements on the island, viz, Bayamo.
Baracoa, Sancti Spiritus, Puerto Principe, Trinidad, and El Cayo.

291. It contains the rich copper mines, out of which they have
taken, and continue taking, great quantities of copper, from which
they have made all the cannon of the Morro in Havana and other
forts, and much has been exported to Spain. Santiago has abundance
of meat from the great cattle ranches in its district, and of corn,
manioc, and other fruit and root crops. From here to Cape Tiburén
on the island of Hispaniola, it is 40 leagues.

292. The village of Baracéa is the easternmost on the island; it is
50 leagues ENE, of Santiago, established by Diego Velazquez. Bay-
amo lies 20 leagues NE.; it is the largest village in its district and is
wonderfully temperate and attractive. Puerto Principe lies 40 leagues
NW. of Santiago, on the N. coast; it is 50 leagues along the S. coast
to the village of Sancti Spiritus; El Cayo and Trinidad are the
smallest, and not so far away.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 103

CHAPTER XXXIII

Of the City and Harbor of Havana.

293. The famous harbor of Havana lies on the N. coast of the
island, WNW. of the city of Santiago de Cuba, just within 23° N.,
opposite Florida; it is there that the galleons and fleets come and
unite, both from the Spanish Main and New Spain, and it is there
that they outfit themselves and take on the supplies necessary to pass
through the Bahama Channel and sail to Spain. The city was founded
by Commander Diego Velazquez in the year 1515, on St. Christo-
pher’s day, after he had subdued and pacified the island, and so he
called it San Crist6bal de la Habana ; it will contain over 1,200 Spanish
residents, plus great numbers of the Negro and mulatto service class,
and the crews usually stopping there from the fleets and galleons, and
other ships and frigates, since the city and harbor are the stopping
place for all those who come from all parts of the Indies ; it has much
trade and intercourse with all the other Windward Islands and other
localities. ;

294. The city was built on a plain in a wonderful site, on the shore
of a deep lagoon or arm of the sea running inland; it covers the area
of a large city and is provided with abundance of meat, fish, turtles,
tortoises, corn, manioc, and flour, which are generally imported from
New Spain, with many delicious native fruits; although the climate
is hot, it has bright skies and wholesome air. The city is built to the
E. of this lake or harbor ; in the city and its environs there are many
plantations of bananas, coconut palms, native plums, pineapples,
oranges, lemons, and other handsome trees, with all the vegetables and
garden truck of Spain.

295. The city contains a very large and spacious parish church,
Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustinian convents, and an excellent
hospital run by Brethren of San Juan de Dios, in which the indigent
sick are nursed with great devotion; there are other churches and
shrines. The harbor of Havana is one of the best, roomiest, and
deepest known; in fact, ships of no matter what size are practically
moored to the houses of the city. At the entrance to the harbor on
the W. there is a famous impregnable fortress, the Morro, which has
a Warden appointed by His Majesty, and 200 soldiers in the garrison,
plus the artillerymen; it contains 43 cannon, of the following
denominations :

296. On the castle platform.

1. The cannon named San Pedro; weight figured at 85 quintals 15 (19 in list

on folio 193) Ibs.; 12 diameters in length from its mouth; requires a 36-lb. ball,
15 lbs. of powder.

IO4 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

2. The stone-mortar named San Juan; weight, 29 quintals 25 lbs.; 123
diameters; a 14-lb. ball, 8 of powder.

3. A tierce cannon named San Anton; weight, 31 quintals 14 Ibs.; 13 di-
ameters; a I5-lb. ball, 8 of powder.

4. Another tierce cannon; weight, 43 quintals; 173 diameters; a 23-lb. ball,
15 of powder.

5. Another tierce cannon; weight, 29 quintals 41 lbs.; 163 diameters; an 18-Ib.
ball, 12 of powder.

6. Another tierce cannon; weight, 28 quintals 75 lbs.; 174 diameters; an 18-lb.
ball, 13 of powder.

7. Another tierce cannon; weight, 41 quintals 23 lbs.; 185 diameters; a 20-Ib.
ball, 14 of powder.

8. Another tierce cannon; weight, 41 quintals 90 lbs.; 18 diameters; a 22-lb.
ball, 14 of powder.

g. Another tierce cannon; weight, 39 quintals 37 lbs.; 174 diameters; a 24-Ib.
ball, 16 of powder.

10. A half culverin, named Our Lady of Talbanida; weight, 50 quintals 50 lbs. ;
27 diameters; a 14-lb. ball, 12 of powder.

11. Another half culverin, named Santa Inés; weight, 46 quintals 25 lbs.;
27 diameters; a 14-lb. ball, 12 of powder.

12. A falconet; weight, 6 quintals; 22 diameters; a 3-lb. ball, 2 of powder.

297. The curtain running from the foot of the Morrillo to the
reservoir.

1. A half culverin named Our Lady of Charity; weight, 46 quintals 4o lbs.;
25 diameters; a 17-lb. ball, 13 of powder.

2. Another half culverin; weight, 46 quintals 40 lbs.; 27 diameters; a 14-Ib.
ball, 12 of powder.

3. Another half culverin; weight 46 quintals 40 lbs.; 28 diameters; a 15-Ib.
ball, 12 of powder.

4. A royal culverin named Our Lady of the Assumption; weight, 92 quintals
15 lbs.; 30 diameters; a 27-lb. ball, 20 of powder.

5. A bastard half culverin; weight, 32 quintals 86 lbs.; 26 diameters; an 11-lb.
ball, 9 of powder.

6. Another half culverin; weight, 48 quintals 50 lbs.; 27 diameters; a 14-lb.
ball, 11 of powder.

7. Another half culverin; weight, 46 quintals; 26 diameters; a 15-lb. ball,
12 of powder.

8. Another half culverin named Our Lady of the Orchards (Los Guertos) ;
weight, 46 quintals 23 lbs.; 28 diameters; a 13-lb. ball, 10 of powder.

g. Another half culverin; weight, 46 quintals 12 lbs.; 25 diameters; a 16-lb.
ball, 12 of powder.

298. Cavalier curtain on the sea side.

10. A half cannon; weight, 65 quintals; 30 diameters; an 18-lb. ball, 14 of
powder.

11. A cannon named San Lorenzo del Duque; no weight record; 28 diameters ;
a 23-lb. ball, 18 of powder.

12. A bastard half culverin; weight, 30 quintals 4o lbs.; 26 diameters; a 12-lb.
ball, 10 of powder.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 105

299. Platform of St. Thomas.

13. A royal culverin named Santa Barbara; weight, 97 quintals ; 31 diameters ;
a 27-lb. ball, 20 of powder.

14. Another royal culverin named San Antonio; weight, 86 quintals 8 Ibs. ;
30 diameters ; a 27-lb. ball, 20 of powder.

300. Cavalier curtain on the land side, running to the Orillon.

15. A tierce stone-mortar; weight, 26 quintals 50 lbs.; 13 diameters; a 15-Ib.
ball, 9 of powder.

16. A half culverin named Santa Casilda; weight, 42 quintals; 24 diameters ;
a 15-lb. ball, 9 of powder.

17. A bastard half culverin; no weight recorded; 26 diameters; a 15-Ib. ball,
12 of powder.

18. A quarto stone-mortar; no weight recorded; 12 diameters; a 12-lb. ball,
8 of powder.

19. A half culverin; weight, 47 quintals; 27 diameters; a 12-lb. ball, 10 of
powder. :

20. A tierce stone-mortar, named San Diego, weight, 48 quintals 15 lbs.;
13 diameters; a 15-lb. ball, 9 of powder.

21. A half culverin, named Santa Catalina; no weight recorded, 32 diameters ;
an 8-lb. ball, 8 of powder.

22. Another half culverin, named Santa Ana; weight, 44 quintals 85 lbs.;
26 diameters; a 16-lb. ball, 12 of powder.

23. A pasavolante (small culverin), named Santa Ana; no weight recorded;
35 diameters; an 8-lb. ball, 8 of powder.

24. A tierce stone-mortar, named Santo Domingo; weight, 28 quintals 12 lbs. ;
13 diameters; a 16-lb. ball, 10 of powder.

25. A moyana (small culverin) ; no weight recorded; 27 diameters; a 7-Ib.
ball, 7 of powder.

26. A quarto cannon; weight, 22 quintals; 19 diameters; a 12-lb. ball, 9 of
powder.

27. A moyana; no weight recorded; 27 diameters; a 7-lb. ball, 7 of powder.

301. Citadel of the Orillon.

28. A quarto stone-mortar; weight, 27 quintals; 13 diameters; a 10-lb. ball,
7 of powder.

29. Another quarto stone-mortar; weight, 15 quintals 50 lbs.; 13 diameters;
a 10-lb. ball, 7 of powder.

302. First casemate next the guardroom.
30. A cast-iron cannon; 20 diameters; a 6-lb. ball, 5 of powder.

303. And opposite the Morro on the other side of the harbor there
is another castle or fortress called La Punta, with many heavy bronze
cannon, and with a Captain who is its Warden, with a company of
100 soldiers. So ships enter the harbor between the Morro and this
fort; and within the harbor, next the houses where the ships tie up,
there is another fortress, which they call the Fuerza Vieja (Old Fort),

106 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

where there is another Captain with his company of guards. Here they
mount guard every day; this fort has plenty of supplies and artillery,
with 150 soldiers. Thus in the Morro and the two forts or castles
there are over 450 soldiers in the garrison, plus the gunners and the
other artisans.

304. His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council, ap-
points a Governor for this city, who is Captain General; there are in
residence a Paymaster and a Treasurer of the Royal Patrimony. In
this harbor they build excellent galleons. The harbor of Matanzas
lies 20 leagues E. of here; there are all sorts of shops in this city and
they put up preserves of fine quality, which are bought and used on
a large scale for the fleets and galleons.

CHAPTER XXXIV

Of the City of St. Augustine, Florida, and Its District.

305. Florida is a point of land projecting 100 leagues into the sea ;
it is ona line N. from Cuba; it is about 25 or 30 leagues across from
E. to W., and forms part of the mainland with New Spain. It was
discovered by Commander Juan Ponce de Leon in the year 1512, on
Easter Day (Pascua Florida), and for that reason he so named it;
it lies just within 25° N. Later, Panfilo de Narvaez set out to conquer
it in the year 1528, but all perished except Alvaro Nujfiez Cabeza de
Vaca and his companions; these suffered great hardships among the
savages, but cured their sick miraculously with holy words and the
sign of the Holy Cross, in true faith ; and in the year 1536, reverenced
and respected by the Indians for the cures God effected through
them, they arrived in the Kingdom of New Galicia, 30 leagues from
the town of San Miguel de Culiacan, as is told in the histories. There
they met Christian Spaniards who were astounded at their dress and
the pilgrimage they had made; they were clothed and feted by Gen.
Francisco Vazquez de Coronado, who at that time was setting out on
the conquest of those provinces. And so the devoted companions
broke up and separated, and good Alvaro Nufiez Cabeza de Vaca,
whose heroic virtues and courage in meeting hardships would require
a special history, reached the city of Mexico. There he was very
kindly received and treated by the Viceroy, Don Antonio de Mendoza;
and from there, aided by the Viceroy, he returned to Spain and gave
His Majesty an account of the unfortunate outcome of Panfilo de
Narvaez’ party, a description of the territories he had seen and of his
great tribulations during the 7 years’ pilgrimage of his passage
through those regions of savages. And His Majesty, having received

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word of the death of Don Pedro de Mendoza, and having no news of
Juan de Ayolas, who was engaged in his expeditions and campaigns
along the Rio de la Plata, appreciating the courage and Christian
character of this noble gentleman, Cabeza de Vaca, entrusted to him
that expedition and administration in the year 1541; and he went
there and carried out extended explorations of provinces which by
his wisdom and excellent skill he converted to the Faith, knowing well
how to do it. In these he suffered great hardships and especially from
the Royal Officials, who, with treasonable and arbitrary action,
arrested him for having been zealous in the service of God and of
His Majesty, as is related in the histories; and in the year 1545 he
returned to Spain, where his innocence was recognized and he was
Sebeireec.

306. In the year 1539 Commander Hernando de Soto set out to
explore Florida, and sailed into the Bay of Espiritu Santo the last
day of May with goo well-armed Spanish soldiers and 350 horses.
The first districts he explored were those of the chiefs Hirrihiagua,
Mucozo, and Urribarract. Inland there are many trees of Spanish va-
rieties, like walnuts, mulberries, plums, oaks, wild grape vines, pines,
and others similar. He continued exploring large provinces and settle-
ments of powerful and warlike Indians, great archers; and since the
Spaniards did not establish themselves at once, they kept wasting
away, between those who were killed by the Indians and others who
succumbed to the great hardships they underwent, and to ailments.
And after traveling inland and exploring great provinces and various
tribes, in the year 1543 he died in the Province of Quigualtagui like
a good Christian, leaving as Governor General in his place Luis de
Moscoso Alvarado. They buried him by night in a very deep grave
so that the savages should not disinter him and make a mock of him;
but having realized that they could not keep it hidden from the
Indians, they took out his body and put it in a hollow tree trunk
which served as a coffin, plugging it up with a plank, each end heavily
weighted, and cast it into the deep current of the great river, with
profound grief and sorrow on the part of all.

307. Although the new General was well liked by everyone, they
began quarreling at once and abandoning what had cost them such
hardships ; so, starting out from this point westward for New Spain
and traveling many leagues with no success, indeed, with the loss and
the death of many of their comrades, both in fights with the warlike
savages and from ailments caused by their great hardships, they faced
about toward their starting point and reached the provinces of the
chiefs Guachacoya and Anilco, who were waging bloody warfare

108 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

against each other; they made friends with the chief Anilco, who
aided them with all necessities, and they built seven brigantines with
which to put to sea, so greatly did they desire to leave that country.
Hereupon a countless horde of savages banded together to attack the
Christians; but so huge a flood overflowed both banks of the river
that the land was inundated for over 20 leagues each way, and the
savages scattered to save their homes. This lasted 40 days, at the
end of which the river returned to its channel and the group of seven
brigantines set out, trailing some canoes behind them. The ships
carried 350 Spaniards, all who survived of the expedition which had
started under Commander Hernando de Soto, for 550 had died in
the enterprise in warfare and from sickness, together with some 30
Indians, men and women. As they sailed down that great river to
reach the sea, they were followed by about 1,000 canoes of savages
of various tribes who had united to exterminate them; these followed,
skirmishing and attacking them, for 17 days, during which they
traveled 400 leagues. They left them behind after losing 48 Spanish
soldiers, and put out to sea; and after many hardships and storms,
they succeeded in making port at Panuco; and thus was abandoned
at that time the project of conquering Florida, with the loss of 600
Spaniards in its various provinces, as has been related.

CHAPTER XXXV

Of the City and Fortress of St. Augustine, Florida, and of Other
Special Features of These Provinces.

308. After what has been related—both the misfortunes of the two
armies of Panfilo de Narvaez and of Gov. Hernando de Soto, failing
to make any settlement at once—and the fate of the friar Fray Luis
Cancer of the Dominican Order and his companions, who went to
those provinces in the year 1549 for the conversion of the savages by
preaching the Gospel, and who suffered for it and were killed by the
savages, already exasperated by the earlier Spanish expeditions, or
naturally ferocious—after all this, in the year 1559, Commander
Pedro Meléndez de Avilés went to these provinces of the warlike
Florida Indians; and after subduing some districts adjoining the
coast, he founded and colonized certain forts and cities, such as San
Mateo, which was soon abandoned, and the city and fort of St.
Augustine, which I have heard still remains as a settlement in that
vast region. This city of St. Augustine lies near the sea at the water’s
edge; it contains over 300 Spanish residents, who are all married
soldiers living there as a garrison. The city is well built of stone,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 10g

with an excellent parish church and a Franciscan convent with some
30 friars, who are almost all evangelizing the Indians in their villages.
There is a hospital to care for the indigent sick, a shrine of Santa
Barbara, and a fort with some 25 excellent bronze cannon. His
Majesty appoints a Governor, who is Captain General, and two Royal
Officials.

309. The city lies full 30° N.; its climate is like that of Spain,
with winter and summer; the country is fertile, level, and wooded,
with some swamps. Spanish fruit trees bear with great abundance,
as do also cereals, garden truck, and vegetables; they grow excellent
quinces, pomegranates, pears, and other kinds of fruit, and marvelous
melons.

310. There are many districts converted to the Faith; the Indians
are very good Christians, and devout. One league from the city lies
the village of San Sebastian, and there are other villages, like Ais,
Moloa, Matacumbe, and others, and the Province of Surruqué to the
S., as one comes from Havana, and many other settlements and
provinces.

311. The Province of Gualé is 40 leagues N. of St. Augustine;
farther on is the Province of Santa Elena, and in that direction, at
120 leagues from St. Augustine, the Sierra de Tama, all rock crystal,
where fine diamonds have been found ; beyond which some 40 leagues
to the N., lies Virginia, or Xacal, an English settlement. From Florida
to the Punta de Bacallaos (Cape Cod), which is at 48°30’, it is 1,260
leagues, with settlements of the heathen at many points; and from
Mexico to Florida there are over 500 leagues of extensive provinces
with settlements of savages, part of which will be described in the
following chapter.

312. The city and provinces of Florida come under the jurisdiction
of the Bishop of Cuba; and for more than 200 leagues inland there
are heathen Indians who wish to become Christians and many of
them have churches already built, but they are not converted, for lack
of any prelate, minister, or priest; for the few that there are cannot
fill the need, as the Gospel says: “The harvest truly is great but the
laborers are few.” And Jeremiah, lamenting in spirit over like mis-
chance, says: “The poor asked bread, and there was no man to break
it unto them.” The poor heathen asked for the bread of the Gospel,
and there was no one to give it to them; and there is no remedy for
this, through want of a shepherd; for the Bishop of Cuba does not
go to Florida because there are perilous risks of enemy pirates who
habitually keep raiding and infesting those coasts, and because also
of the dangerous character of the sea in those regions, with so many

IIo SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

hurricanes ; furthermore, the English of Xacal are so close by land,
as has been remarked, and by sea it is not more than 150 leagues after
coming out of the Bahama Channel; nor do they neglect to teach their
perverse religion to these poor heathen; for which reason they keep
raiding, in conjunction with the other pirates’ nest which they main-
tain in Bermuda, where they have two other forts with which they are
in connection, for they are not more than 200 sea leagues apart, and
it takes not over 8 days for communication.

CHAPTER XXXVI

Of Many Other Provinces Lying in the District of Florida, and
of the Wealth of Ambergris and Pearls Produced There, and the
Need of a Prelate.

313. In this region there are many provinces well peopled by war-
like tribes and abounding in food supplies of corn and other cereal
and root crops, quantities of fruit, fallow deer, elk, rabbits, and other
animals, with plenty of feathered game, partridges, quail, doves,
turtledoves, turkeys, pheasants, and other birds; in the mighty rivers
there is abundance of delicious fish and great beds of pearls. Among
the provinces closest to St. Augustine are Urribarract, and at 3 days’
journey NE. from there, the Province of Acuera, which to the N.
borders on the Province of Ocali; the capital of the latter contains
more than 700 houses; it is abundantly supplied with corn and fruit,
and is some 20 leagues from the Province of Acuera. Sixteen leagues
beyond Ocali is that of Vitacucho or Chile, of over 10,000 Indians,
a brave and warlike tribe, whose habit it is to set out for war with
large feather headdresses, very handsome after their fashion. All
these provinces were explored by Gov. Hernando de Soto with his
army in the year 1540. Next comes the Province of Osachile, and 12
leagues beyond, that of Apalache; the first village has 250 houses;
the country consists of fertile lowlands with many field cabins and
much cultivation ; the chief was Capafi, governor of the whole country
and of the banks of the mighty river Osachile, very rich in fish and
pearls. To the N. of Apalache there are many other villages 3 days’
journey removed, under the same lord of Apalache; from here to
the Bay of Espiritu Santo is 150 leagues.

314, Ten leagues beyond Apalache lies the Province of Atalpaha,
with large villages and plenty of food; from there it was 10 short
days’ journey through country fertile and prolific, along the banks
of a river running N. and S., to the Province of Chalaqui, which has
few inhabitants ; next comes that of Cofachi, with attractive and fer-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA DLT

tile country ; adjoining that is the Province of Cofaqui, whose inhabi-
tants are good-natured and intelligent, with fertile fields under culti-
vation. After 7 short days’ journey comes the Province of Cofachi-
qui; the Indians in these provinces go clothed in cloaks of very valu-
able marten fur; the country is fertile, cool, and well settled; it
belonged to a handsome unmarried chieftainess, who received the
Spaniards peaceably and kindly; the people of all this province are
well-disposed and intelligent. The chief village, where the chief-
tainess resided, was a large one, built on the banks of a mighty river
in which grow many large oysters; in them are produced countless
fine pearls, and so the lady and other chief personages wore necklaces
of them. In the temples they kept large chests like coffins in which
were preserved the bodies and burials of their lords and chief person-
ages and many baskets of pearls; of these, with the permission of
the lady, the Spaniards took such a quantity that they weighed out
20 arrobas (of 25 lbs. each) of them, for all the streams produce
them in abundance, and the mother of this lady, who resided in
another village 12 leagues distant on the banks of this same river,
was said to possess more than 12 cartloads (of 4 bushels each) of
pearls. There were in these provinces many well-dressed antelope
skins and martens, rich mines of copper pyrites, and mines of a sort
of very curious mineral like sifted white pyrites (margajita). In
these provinces there are many villages where the natives have fields
of corn and other cereals, and quantities of fruit.

315. From this province one goes 24 leagues NE. to Chalaque, all
of it attractive country with pleasant meadows and prairies dotted
with field cabins and plots under cultivation, up to the valley of Xuala,
a territory rich in food crops, under the same chieftainess. In all this
province they have many Indian slaves, obtained in war with other
districts, whom they keep hobbled (desocados) for work in the fields
and for the personal service of their owners, so that they cannot get
away. It is 400 leagues to this province from the Bay of Espiritu
Santo, with many remarkable and valuable features beyond what has
been briefly described in this chapter; and the complete failure and
collapse of Gov. Hernando de Soto and his Spaniards, resulted in
nonsettlement of many most suitable districts which the local chiefs
affably requested them to colonize; had they done so, the colonies
would have grown greatly and another kingdom would have been
established as extensive as that of New Spain.

LPp2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXXVII

Continuing the Description of the Provinces, etc., Discussed in the
Preceding Chapter.

316. From Xuala they traveled 4 leagues over pleasant meadows
and flat country with occasional villages and crossed a gentle range
of hills with many groves of fruit trees and cool glades, arriving in
the Province of Chief Guaxale; then 5 more to the territory of
Ichiaha, in whose rivers there were extensive beds of fine large pearls ;
great quantities were buried with the bodies of chief personages.
The chief sent men out to fish for them, and in a short time they
brought in their canoes loaded with large oysters and took many out
of them ; the Spaniards were astonished at this, and one soldier found
a pearl in one, as large as a hazelnut, and of great value. Bordering
on this is the Province of Acoste, and on the bank of that mighty
river, the Province of Lord Coza, very extensive and well settled,
with gentle and attractive fields abounding in food crops. The prin-
cipal village, of 500 houses, was above the banks of the river. Here
the chief cordially requested the Governor to establish a settlement,
since it was such an important matter for all of them. From this
province it is 20 leagues through country all covered with field cabins
and farms to the village of Talise, fortified with deep trenches, since
it was the frontier post opposite the province of the arrogant Lord
of Tascaluza, with whom Coza was at war.

317. Next comes the Province of Chief Tascaluza, who was of
giant stature but slender; he had a son still young, almost as tall as
he; the tallest Spaniard hardly came up to his shoulder. His chief
city was Mavila, on the other side of the river, where there was
abundance of food because of the fertility of the land. Tascaluza
tried to kill the Spaniards and under cover of peace set a great ambush
for the Spaniards, who were proceeding on their guard as was suitable
among such people; the savages fell upon them and they joined cruel
battle, which lasted almost all day, both sides fighting valiantly ; 83
Spaniards were killed and 45 horses, to the great sorrow of the
Spaniards, and many were badly wounded; but they came off vic-
torious, having killed 11,000 of the savages, many of them burned to
death, the Spaniards having set fire to the village, where they lost
their baggage and everything they had.

318, Disconsolate (though victorious) at the loss of their com-
rades, they traveled from Mavila 3 days over pleasant country and
prairies to the Province of Chioza, where the chief came out with
8,000 warriors to bar their passage. Chioza was well located between

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA Tn

two watercourses ; but they cut the savages to pieces and marched on
a league to the village of Chiacocolla and then 4 leagues to Libamo,
both situated in the province just mentioned, the whole country being
well supplied with food. Twelve leagues beyond lies the village of
the Province of Chisca, built above the deep-lying channel of a mighty
river, the largest they had yet come upon; the country was fertile
and rich in corn and other cereals. Having crossed the mighty river,
they traveled 4 days’ journey to the Province of Casquin, where they
discovered on a hill a town of 400 houses which was the capital ;
the surrounding country was all full of corn, fruit, and other luxuries.
Here they were well received by the chief and his vassals. Casquin
begged the Governor that since he had a better god than theirs, they
should pray that he send them rain, for the land had need of it. So
they set up a great cross and they all prayed to God, and it rained
good and hard that night, with more than 20,000 heathen present
there, whooping loudly at intervals while the Spaniards were pray-
ing, begging the God of the Christians to send them rain; and with
the mercy that God showed to these savages through the prayers
and intercession of the Christians, they were greatly comforted and
held the Holy Cross in deep veneration.

319. From here they proceeded 3 days’ journey escorted by 5,000
Indians through the Province of Casquin to the Province of Cafana,
with whom they were at war. He withdrew to an island in the mighty
river, where he had a fortress; and after they had had several
encounters, the Governor made these two chieftains friends. From
this province he returned to Casquin and from there traveled W.;
for from Mavila they had explored northward. From Casquin they
marched 5 days to the Province of Quigate, and with 5 more days
down the river they reached that of Colima, where they were peace-
ably received. It was a rich country but lacking in salt, replaced by
bluestone (arena azul). From Colima they went through unin-
habited territory to the Province of Tula, where they had some skir-
mishes with the savages ; 2 days from there they reached Vitangue, a
region abounding in food supplies; there were deer, great numbers
of excellent rabbits, and quantities of wildfowl, which gave them
agreeable variety.

320. From Vitangue in 7 days they reached Naguatex over fer-
tile and productive country ; there Diego de Guzman was left behind,
without their being able to rescue him from the Indians. They went
on to Guacané, a warlike tribe; there they found many crosses which
devout Cabeza de Vaca had left; the Indians reverenced these greatly
and showed deep devotion to them. From here they passed through

9

II4 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

seven large provinces before reaching that of Anilco, which was large
and thickly settled; they traveled 30 leagues through it to the capital,
which was a town of 400 houses, built on the bank of that mighty
river. It contained a large square next the dwelling of Chief Anilco.
They crossed the river and journeyed on through uninhabited moun-
tainous country to the Province of Gachacoya, mortal enemy of
Anilco, with whom he was at war. Here the Spaniards were kindly
treated and welcomed by the chief and his underlings; they rested
there and other things happened which for brevity’s sake I beg leave
to omit. From here they went on to the Province of Quigualtaugut ;
the chief town contained 500 houses, built on the bank of the mighty
river ; the country is fertile and abounding in food supplies. It was
at this spot that Governor de Soto died in the year 1543; with this
event began the loss of what had been laboriously accomplished.

321. Although the soldiers had accepted Luis de Moscoso as their
General, they immediately wanted to leave the country for New
Spain, and traveled 100 leagues westward to the Province of Auche,
and from there through others more sterile, named after the warlike
cowboys (Vaqueros) ; there were cows in that country. They traveled
20 days through these provinces losing Spaniards every day with the
fighting and the hardships. Seeing that they were getting lost, they
turned eastward, working ENE. till they arrived in the Provinces of
Anilco and Guachacoya. From there in boats or brigantines, as has
been told, they made their way out with great trials, pursued by a
thousand canoes of Indians, and they succeeded in making port at
Panuco, abandoning so many provinces they might have settled.

322. On all the Florida coast and on those islands, besides the
pearl beds to be found in the rivers inland, of which we have given
a brief and succinct account, and oyster beds on the sand bars with
fine pearls, there is much ambergris of far finer quality than else-
where, and other highly prized and valuable commodities ; but since
the country is not settled and explored, it derives no benefit from
such great wealth.

323. The colonists of that Florida country suffer great need be-
cause the Bishop of Havana cannot come over there on account of
the risks of storms at sea and of pirates, and so they are yet to be
confirmed; accordingly they desire and pray that His Majesty will
take pity on them and since they serve him as loyal subjects, that he
will do them the favor to send them a Bishop or Abbot, which will
comfort and strengthen them, and will bring many of the heathen
who dwell inland, to knowledge of our Holy Faith, for they are well-
disposed. Inland there are many churches without priests and though

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 115

the natives are not Christians, they live in hopes of becoming
Christian ; it would be a great help to send a prelate to train minis-
ters sufficient to catechize them and teach them the way of salvation.

CHAPTER XXXVIII

Of the Island of Jamaica, Its Fertility, and the Remarkable Things
To Be Found There.

324, The island of Jamaica lies in 17°30’ N., 20 leagues S. of
Cuba, and likewise 20 leagues W. of the island of Hispaniola. It is
150 leagues in circuit, 50 leagues long from E. to W., and 20 to 25
leagues across. It has a marvelous climate, rather hot than cold, and
is extremely rich in food supplies. On the N. coast it has high moun-
tain ranges, with great forests and valuable timber trees on them, as
is stated by Solérzano, “De Jure Indiarum,” folio 64, book I, chap-
ter VI, No. 11. At the beginning of the exploration and conquest,
three settlements were made on this fertile island, viz, Sevilla on the
N. coast, where they built the collegiate church for the island; the
town was settled by Capt. Juan de Esquivel, a gentleman native of
Seville, in the year 1509, and Capt. Diego Sanchez de Espinosa, who
was given command for life (Alcaldia perpetua) of a fortress built
there, by His Majesty’s favor, since he was a leading pioneer and
settler. Fourteen leagues from Sevilla they established on the S.
coast the town of Oristan; and 20 leagues to the eastward in that
same year these captains founded the town of La Vega, to which
the others were later transferred, and it still remains; it was like-
wise colonized by Capt. Alonso de Vargas, a gentleman native of
Trujillo, and Capt. Martin Vazquez with Francisco de Garay, who
was to be Commander of this island, and other noble gentlemen,
captains and soldiers, who aided with their valor in its conquest and
settlement.

325. The town of La Vega, which is in existence today, is the La
Vega of the title of the Admirals of the Indies given by His Majesty—
Marquis of Veragua and La Vega; it was established on the bank
of a large river named Cahuaya, which almost surrounds it. It has
a marvelously attractive site, contains 500 Spanish residents, and is
very well built and laid out. There is a collegiate church with an
Abbot and some clerics who reside there and serve it; there are two
convents, a Dominican and a Franciscan, and two shrines which
serve as parish churches, Our Lady of Belén and San Jeronimo, in
which Mass is said for the poor people in the environs. It lies 2
short leagues from the sea and the main port, over pleasant Ievel

116 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

country with many trees. The river running through the town is
very salutary, with fresh and crystal-clear water, and abundance of
fish ; when it reaches the town it is a mighty stream, its source being
over 30 leagues away.

326. The town is very healthful, with agreeable and bracing
breezes, aided in this by the river ; since it runs through a region full
of ceterach and sarsaparilla, it is of great benefit to the inhabitants
of the town; thanks to its numerous virtues, persons suffering from
the French pox and other open sores and illnesses, have only to take
some exercise and get into a perspiration and then bathe in it under
the blazing rays of the sun and they recover their health, merely by
bathing and rubbing themselves with certain large leaves which grow
on the banks of this river entwined in the trees and called jibana ;
the same result is obtained by persons suffering from hives (ronchas)
or pustules; by bathing mornings in the river, they avoid blood-
letting and come out cured and healthy.

827. This mighty river is fed by over 20 small streams, and so
when it rains the river comes down in flood, carrying many trees
and timbers to the sea at the main port of the town, which is good
and ample. It has two channels for ships to enter by; there is an
island in between near the harbor, and then the two channels unite
and form one. Small boats stay in the neighborhood of the port;
large ships, after discharging cargo, pass into an inlet for fear of
enemies, so to be out of sight.

328. This harbor is visited by many Negro slave ships brought by
the Portuguese from Cape Verde and the (African) rivers, to re-
fresh them after the voyage they have made, since the country is
very fertile and overflowing with cheap food supplies; and those
who are sick, what with the agreeable climate and bathing in the
health-giving waters of the river and plenty of meat and other food,
are cured and recover their health, to pass on to New Spain, Car-
tagena, and other points.

329, At the harbor of this town its inhabitants have built a sort
of fortified embankments up by the entrance, for defense against
enemies, with some pieces of artillery in them. A remarkable event
took place in this harbor, while Don Ferdinando Melgarejo was
Governor of the island for His Majesty; on the eve of the festival
of San Diego a corsair arrived with a fleet of 16 ships, intending to
take the island and sack the town. Their General disembarked some
600 men from them; the residents were called out for defense
against the enemy and God gave them such good fortune that they
killed over 100 of them, including the General, without our losing.

WALOLE, VOL] THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA TL

more than one man; and the enemy having withdrawn ignominiously
to their ships gave out the statement that the chief cause of their
rout was a friar, mounted on a powerful horse and singing the
hymn of victory; accordingly from that time on the town said its
prayers to him and has him as their patron; on his day they hold a
fiesta there and a general celebration, in commemoration of this vic-
tory and of the mercy God showed them through the intercession
of the saint.

CHAPTER XXXIX

Continuing the Description of the Remarkable Features of the
Island, and How at the Beginning It Was a Help to Further
Conquests.

330. The inhabitants of this island who dwell there today and
maintain it, are the sons and descendants of those illustrious men
who won it and settled there—all of them of noble, kindly, and very
Christian character, and charitable to all the poverty-stricken who
arrive there, providing them with their needs; as for those who stay,
they lay them under obligation with their noble treatment of them,
while they help and outfit for their voyage, those who desire to
travel farther. Their large cattle ranches are so productive that the
fields are full of them; they provide much beef for the ships, and
hides for Spain; likewise with small cattle—goats, sheep, and hogs—
all of which are produced in abundance on the island. For these, and
for service in their farmhouses and in the fields, they have over
1,000 Negro and mulatto slaves who busy themselves on the land in
the cattle ranches and as shepherds, and in the cultivation of corn,
tobacco (of which quantities are raised on the island), rice, cassava,
and some presses for honey; all of these yield abundantly, for the
land is suitable and productive.

331, There are likewise all the fruits of the Indies in plenty, and
from Spain they have grapes, olives, quinces, and many others,
which bear very well, and the woods are all full of wild grapes; they
grow cassia, cotton, cacao, and sweet potatoes. The woods are full
of tall trees which are loaded with excellent savory pepper, like that
which is got from India; this is exported to Cartagena, New Spain,
and all the other islands; it is a great source of wealth which might
be taken over to Spain, and would be very important; they use it in
all their stews and in the manufacture of chocolate.

332. Besides the above there are quantities of goats run wild on
the mountains and especially on one very massive range over 3
leagues long and very high, near the sea, with the lookout on top;

118 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

these goats are too numerous to count; they have battues and get
excellent cordovan leather from them. Likewise there are on the
mountains countless herds of swine; the land is so prolific of every-
thing, and the climate so mild, that they have multiplied to such an
extent that they are fair game to anyone who wants to kill them.
With the abundance of wild fruit growing all over these mountains,
they get fat between July and November, at which time they hold
great battues, so that with the lard they get from them, they load
ships with casks of lard for the Spanish Main and other sections.
In these 5 months they get every year on the average over 10,000
arrobas of excellent lard and many poor people benefit from it.

333. There is much feathered game on this island, like guinea
fowl, and many sorts of pigeons and turtledoves in such numbers
that on one key which lies 2 leagues out to sea from the harbor, i.e.,
an island to leeward of it, which is named Cayo de Palominos (Dove
Key) and which is usually covered with doves, so many are raised
that on St. John’s Day they go out from the island to celebrate on
this key, for there are so many fledgeling doves that they can load
ships with them; and so those who go out to the celebration, after
having gorged on them all the days of their stay, come back with
their boats loaded with them, for the multitude of them covers the
ground and the trees.

334, On this island there are very rich mines of gold and silver,
blue pyrites (cobalt? azul), copper and other metals, particularly in
some ranges in the eastern part of the island, called the Bastida,
which are paved with these metals; in the early days of exploration
great wealth was taken out of them. Most of the rivers carry min-
eral, but no advantage comes of it because of the lack of labor ; there
were many Indians at the time of the conquest, but when they died out,
profitable working of the mines ceased. This whole island has many
mountain ranges, particularly on the N., S., and E., with many valleys
and much meadow land between them; to the W. it is level country.

335. There is on this island excellent hard and valuable timber
for shipbuilding, such as mahogany, cedar, and oak, out of which
they have built many boats a league or two up the rivers inland, and
then floated them downstream to the sea; there is likewise abundance
of red ebony; brazilwood (of which much is exported) ; palo santo
(lignum vitae), also called guayacan (guaiacum) which is indestruc-
tible and has a very medicinal bark; and the ceiba (silk cotton) tree,
from which they make strong large dugouts, in which they float all
the products of the soil to the chief port; this ceiba tree produces
large tufts of very soft fine cotton.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 119

336. The island has large ranches of mares and horses, which were
much exported in the early days of the exploration and conquest of
all the Spanish Main and New Spain, both for breeding purposes
and for the settlement of the country, as well as for personal use
and their value in the conquests; the same with cows. This island
furnished sustenance for all the new discoveries, being the comfort
and support of all the pioneers. There are ranches of mules, which
are largely exported to the Province of Yucatan. Thus Jamaica has
always demonstrated its fertility and abundance in all things; hence
it would be very important and fitting to have a garrison there, since
the island is like a keystone and a convenient stopping place for all
the others, and many of our enemies come to it, both to fit out their
ships and to get provisions from its abundant store; in fact, it could
of itself maintain 12,000 men with its great fertility and abundance.

Boox III

[Of the Territory of the Circuit Court of Mexico, the Principal
One in New Spain; in Which Are Described All the Provinces in
Its Jurisdiction; the Country; Its Characteristics; Its Products;
Some of the Indian Customs; the Cities and Towns Founded by
the Spaniards; the State and Municipal Administrations and Other
Offices Filled by His Majesty; the Religious Hierarchy; and the
Corregimientos and Alcaldias Mayores in the Viceroy’s Appoint-
ment, together with Other Things Worthy of Mention and the Many
Silver Mines in Operation There. |

CHAPTER [|

Of the Province of Yucatan, Its Fertility, and Other Noteworthy
Facts Concerning It.

337. Sailing W. from Cuba, one passes into the Sound, which is
a shallow sea, where the fleets and ships headed for New Spain via
the port of San Juan de Ulloa and the city of Vera Cruz, fish with
hook and line and get quantities of porgies, since they abound in
those waters; then they enter the Gulf of Mexico, leaving Florida
to the N. on the right, and having on the ESE. the Province of Yuca-
tan. This comprises within itself many provinces and tribes; it is a
point of land jutting out over 100 leagues into the sea, from the
Gulf of Honduras side to Cape Catoche; it is 130 leagues long NE.
to SW., across the tip of this country ; from Cape Catoche to Cape
Delgado it is 90 leagues across, E4NE., W.4SW. From Cape Del-
gado along the shore of the Gulf of Mexico, where the town of San
Francisco de Campeche is located, up to the Gulf of Tabasco, where
is located the town of Santa Maria de la Vitoria, it is 65 leagues
long, almost N. and S., and on this quarter from Tabasco to the
town of Salamanca, E. and W., it is 30 leagues wide, which is the
narrowest portion of this country.

338. It is almost a peninsula, and level for the most part, rich in
woods and fruit plantations, but lacking rivers and water, for there
is none anywhere, although it is found immediately in wells. It con-
tains some low mountain ranges from Campeche to Champoton, and
in the midst of them there is a headland called the Morro de los
Diablos (Devils’ Bluff). A range crosses it from E. to W. from
Salamanca to Champoton, which divides Yucatan along the Rio

120

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA I2I

Tayzar (which lies toward the Provinces of Chiapas) from the
Provinces of Lacandon and Manché, which Dr. Alonso Criado de
Castilla, while President of Guatemala, began converting by excel-
lent methods to acquaintance with our Holy Faith in the year 1600,
and 1,400 Indians were baptized; but with the death of this Presi-
dent that great evangelization ceased.

339. The Province or Kingdom of Yucatan has a hot climate and
is thickly settled, healthful, and prolific. The Indians in this country
have increased in numbers; they live to a hale old age; in fact, when
the Spaniards discovered it they found many old men there and
among them one 300 years old, as was attested in those Indians’
annals, and another of 140, who was very active and had children
and grandchildren already old and white-haired. He was baptized
and named Juan Na; he was a native of the village of Humutn, which
lies on the range separating the Provinces of Lacandon and Manché
and the Rio Tayza, which are S. and SW. of the Provinces of
Chiapas, and they have Tabasco and Xicalango of the same Province
of Yucatan to the W. On this quarter the sea forms a great bay full
of islands; and when the Tabasco Indians sail across this bay, in
order not to get lost they put up signals on the trees on them. This is
where the country is narrowest, over to the Province of Chetemal,
where Salamanca was located; its chief was a doughty Indian named
Nachacan, who had in company with him a sailor named Gonzalo
Guerrero, whom he gave in marriage to a lady related to himself, and
made him General in his wars with neighboring enemies; he lived
and dressed like an Indian.

340. This Kingdom of Yucatan comprises 18 provinces; that of
the Yzaes who founded and settled the great city of Chichen Itza;
the Province of Mayapan; that of the Tutuxius; that of Tapaén,
Sotuta, to which tribe belonged the warlike Cocomes; that of the
Cheles, who founded the city of Tirroh; the Province of Cozumel on
an island 5 leagues from the mainland; this is 15 leagues long and 5
broad, below Cape Catoche; between the island and the continent is
formed a channel with a strong current. The island lies in 20° N.;
there used to be a temple in it which was the sanctuary for all that
country, and in it was the well of Chilén, where the heathen savages
offered their sacrifices by throwing into it the slaves captured in war.

341. The Province of the Xiues; that of Cochuaque; that of
Chetemal and Bacalar, where, as already related, Salamanca was
founded ; that of Manaho ; Chuaca; the Covohes of Champotén; the
Province of Arrinchel; that of Xicalango, and Tabasco, to the W.
of that of Campeche, in which is located the city of Campeche, on

[22 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the road to Vera Cruz; that of Chable; the Province of Guaymil—
all of it fertile country, very rich in foodstuffs, corn, honey, deer,
swine, turkeys, and much game, both wild and feathered, for which
reason the natives call it Yetelzeh and Ununuyz, which means coun-
try of game and of turkeys; likewise they called it Petén, which
means island, thinking it was one.

CHAPTER II

Of the Founding of the City of Mérida, and Other Matters Con-
cerning That Country.

342, The Province of Yucatan was discovered by Capt. Francisco
Hernandez de Cordoba, and later by Juan de Grijalba, and in the
year 1527 Commander Francisco de Montejo started its conquest ;
he was a gentleman native of Salamanca; with 500 Spaniards he
entered Yucatan by the village of Xamanzal, and in a period of 8
years he subdued and pacified it. In this he suffered great hardships,
for the Indians were brave and warlike. He founded the first city
in the year 1528, one year after coming in, on the site of the great
city of Chichen Itza; and since there were large and handsome build-
ings there with human figures admirably wrought, with their ear-
caps (orejeras) and earrings, as well as figures of lions and other
animals, such as to arouse admiration at seeing similar buildings
and sculpture, very much like the superb remains at Mérida in Spain,
he called it Mérida.

343. The city is built on a marvelous site, with bright skies and
wholesome air ; it covers the area of a very large city. It is very well
laid out with straight streets and fine buildings; it will number over
600 Spanish residents. It is the residence of the Governor of those
provinces. It contains the Cathedral, very quaint and elaborately
wrought, with a Bishop and Prebendaries who reside there and serve
it; there is a Franciscan convent, with other churches and shrines.
The city is well supplied and admirably provisioned with meat, fish,
and fruit, at very low prices. It lies in 20° N. and has a springlike
climate all the year, with many sorts of native fruit, as well as those
of Spain.

344, Thirty leagues W. lies the town and harbor of San Francisco
de Campeche, with a parish church and Franciscan convent. This
city was founded by the Commander in the year 1531. There is
excellent timber there, for which reason stout ships are built in its
harbor. From here it is 130 leagues to Vera Cruz, to which they ex-
port the local products like wax and honey, which the Indians gather

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 123

from hives and hollow trees; they make also quantities of deerskin
footwear, cotton cloth, candlewicks and other specialties.

345. Valladolid is 30 leagues from Mérida, near the island Cozu-
mel, and Salamanca 60 leagues to the S., likewise founded in the
year 1531; Tabasco is 30 leagues W. of Salamanca, founded by
Commander de Montejo at the same time. After subduing these
provinces and founding the cities and towns above mentioned, he
found himself in need of men after his losses in the fighting, and of
aid; many of his force had left on learning of the riches of Peru;
so he was obliged to abandon the country in the year 1535 to go and
see the Viceroy, Don Antonio de Mendoza, who had arrived from
Spain that same year of 1535, and ask him to give him some aid in
men and munitions to keep the proud Yucatan Indians in subjection
and obedience, or else to give over to him the governorship of Hon-
duras ; he had represented to His Majesty that if he would do him
the favor of turning over to him both provinces, it would be easier
to keep them under control. And so that same year the warrant
arrived naming him Governor of Honduras, on account of the dis-
sensions arising in those provinces because of the cruelties of the
Royal Paymaster Sereceda; this warrant came into the hands of the
Viceroy Don Antonio de Mendoza, who at once turned it over to
Commander Montejo with certain favors and privileges which he
gave him. So he sent Captain Caceres on ahead with his authoriza-
tion to take charge of the administration, with such collaboration on
his part that at the present day the Province of Yucatan is one of
the best and most agreeable provinces in the Indies.

346. The province is very thickly settled, and even though at the
beginning, when it was subdued, it had many inhabitants, at present
it contains 199 settlements, with 116,600 baptized persons, not count-
ing children of both sexes, and many others, with many convents
and curacies, as will be detailed in the following chapter.

347. And although there is no gold or silver ore in this province,
it is very fertile, prolific, and delightful. Quantities of corn are har-
vested in it; that is the chief crop. There is abundance of turkeys
and barnyard fowl, which sell for a real each. Much beeswax is
produced, and honey from the quantities of beehives to be found all
over the province, and from hollow trees in the woods; cacao, cochi-
neal, annatto, indigo; cotton, from which much cloth is woven; and
other specialties which they export to other provinces.

348. The country is very flat and low and heavily wooded, both
with valuable timber like brazilwood, ebony, and others, and with
fruit trees like mammees, Indian figs, aguacates, jocotes, bananas,

I24 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

pineapples, and others, and some from Spain, so that it is provided
with everything. There are quantities of tiny winged things like
bees which shine at night and give out light; these occur in all the
hot, moist countries in the Indies.

349. For clothing the Indians wear broad trousers, cotton under-
shirts, and white cloaks of linen or cotton, some of them striped,
which serve them as capes; they wear them fastened over the left
shoulder and under the right arm. The Indian women wear cotton
petticoats striped in different colors, which serve them as overskirts
or mantles, and over them guaypiles, which fall from the shoulders
to the ankles without sleeves, like surplices; these come in different
colors. There are in this province 30 convents holding district
guardianships, and 131 villages under their charge, as will be detailed
in the following chapter, with all additional information under this
heading.

Jie brs

[Brief and Summary Account for His Most Excellent Lordship,
Viceroy of New Spain; of the Number of Convents and Friars of
the Order of St. Francis in This Province of Yucatan, Occupied in
Ministering to the Indians, and How Many There Are of These
Latter, and Distributed in How Many Villages. Made in the Year

1609. |
CHAPTER III

Of the Number of Convents, Curacies (Dotrinas), and Indians
To Be Found in This Province.
350.

In the city of Mérida, capital of this Province and State, there is a convent with
12 friars, of whom 2 are engaged in ministering to the Indians; there are 2,600
professing Christians in this curacy, more rather than less, not counting children;
they are divided up into 5 pastoral districts (visitas), and the outer ward of

Santo Cristobal 2). is. daris is ooh. so claw reesei ea ee oe oe eee 2,600
In the town and port of Campeche: 1 convent, 4 friars; 4 villages under
pastoral visits, 2,000 Indians under confessional instruction............... 2,000
In the town of Valladolid, Spanish town: 1 convent, 4 friars; 7 villages with
4,000 Indians, under confessional instruction. soc... ones emele seneie eee 4,000
In the village of Conkal: 1 convent, 3 friars; 6 villages, 3,500 Indians under
religious instruction ..i.3...42d scosia « dstaiea eee eee Renee 3,500
In the village of Mani: 1 convent, 4 friars; 3 villages, 5,000 Indians under
confessional “instruction: 4:7) S22 oe acorn ce eee en One 5,000

In the village of Izamal: 1 convent, 4 friars; 10 villages, 5,000 Indians under
religious instruction dcr Ljosiaesceigae canine k Soke ne Ee eee 5,000

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 125

In the village of Tzitzanttn: 1 convent, 4 friars; 4 villages, 4,200 Indians

HMNGCeTEEMOTOUSMITISERTICHION ss ectee nila cole ce eieioeioie aieecrecsis eaccs nersinie era jot 200
In the village of Motul: 1 convent, 3 friars; 4 villages, 4,600 Indians under
confessional instruction ........... Sao eis rye eiacs S ROE eee rare 4,600
In the village of Tekant6: 1 convent, 4 friars; 6 villages, 5,500 Indians under
PEM PI OUSMINStGU CUIOMs sciatic ee oso clei cise exe oie Bua Rete Tareen skalcter ava ate wie ieten senate ie 215,500
In the village of Champoton: 2 friars; 5 small villages, 1,800 Indians under
Pee IOUS IS CLUCEOMy at crieyae csc sero esta ale 6 eusla ene oleae ole [ove a,aue ese ae repo ee 1,800
351.
In the village of Hecilchakan: 1 convent, 3 friars; 5 villages, 2,500 Indians
MAESTEG LU STOMUS MINS EI CLI OM erry ratpere Ore ieeiete in clone tete reise ten cisioueisicia’ & cisreteotcieieiees 2,500
In the village of Calkini: 1 convent, 4 friars; 5 villages, 5,700 persons under
MEM SIOUS) UNStHUCHON <)..c ici. oem ele lice ose Hale ovetrstehevccto era iatiorcteteisceieae ey 5,700
The village of Mascanul: 1 convent, 2 friars; 2 villages, over 2,000 Indians
MING imene TCT OMS MINS til Cl OMiaaeretiicicclemiailoe cio ier leeastele ciclo cece ele cuaietlietone 2,000
The village of Tahuman: 1 convent, 2 friars; 3 villages, 1,600 Indians under
RE HOUSe MNStHUCtONes naa ee cece os eek okies Bei trio ais Minch orate 1,600
The village of Hunucma: 1 convent, 3 friars; 4 villages, 3,000 Indians under
REM TOUSPATISELLICLION 4) a=. o(s hicisiele ow Gecehgtasiowelns ae Se raster erst Toei ooh 3,000
The village of Ticul: 1 convent, 4 friars; 5 villages, over 6,000 persons under
REM STOUSPINSERUCELONM ah saemuse kit tcicci nies onion cee : Serr cee ee: 6,000
The village of Ticah: 1 convent, 3 friars; 3 mimes. 3,700 Indians under
REN OAOUSe INSTRUCTION pd ass crc,.c ale bn ieye/orstarcie ciald bis bas as icine areas BRE Raa ites Sr s.6 3,700

The village of Oxkutzcab: 1 convent, 2 friars; 3 villages, Bon Indians under
REMPIOUS Instruction .........66s Bielsts

The village of Teabo: 1 convent 2 friars; 2 villages, 2,200 Indians under

RN OSVOMISIENIISERLICEI OID ays eerainin so scores atere, Sisko ale coal OAC ale Ride ooo atataatn ovale orale 2,200
The village of Homtn: 1 convent, 2 friars; 2 villages, 1,700 persons under
BEAN IGUISU INS CEUCH OM izaiacs«isc cae hore é Aicholg we bis cc He ieee as Seer heer nrsee an eoae 1,700
352.
The village of Tecoh: 1 convent, 2 friars; 4 villages, 2,200 persons under
BEM OT OUSMINS CEUCE ON cra ieioieralersiche Cheveve ai tie evs eiasdiers/aieideece: Oace eels cancion ieee eta 2,200
The village of Cacalghen: 1 convent, 2 friars; 2 villages, 2,200 Indians under
EMT oTOMSpITISENIICE Olin ies ete rets aie teloeTo te ara coltcincle Sere cic cioke alent eee nee 2,200
The village of Temax: 1 convent, 2 friars; 3 villages, 2,400 Indians under
EM STOUS MIT Stil Chl OM Meterae i erve cena Gee aiolsteaciatersis\ cials.c ere cis slevsiate ale euros 2,400
The village of Telchac: 1 convent, 2 friars; 3 villages, 3,200 Indians under
BeOS MATISUDIT CE OM eter oles e aia foie eyes Sei akes 6 oes Oko OIG os SESS Oe eee 3,200
The village of Mococha: 1 convent, 2 friars; 3 villages, 2,600 Indians under
Reem PESTONIS MINISER UIC LION cts tetas shore bicvomininic te Sents so maisiclbs Ge anaes Sto ares 2,600
The village of Tizimin: 1 convent, 4 friars; 11 villages, 4,200 Indians under
REMIT OUSMINISEEUCLI OMgrrr artesian neice ac ane cei sal Sredecarcyerel shea is 4,200
The village of Tintin: 1 convent, 2 friars; 5 villages, 1,800 Indians under
eMMETENETS MILI LETICEIOUN Wray core yay a\eyarevsrcrav ess) ote to ops 1605s ocatorale a Sttores eae are retake 1,800
The village of Chichimila: 1 convent, 2 friars; 5 villages, 3,000 persons under
HEMSIOUS) INStHUCtION .. 0c... sie. Nefotere ic) cdorsboi everest tise patti ete tiere aise 3 O00

In the woods (montafias): 4 friars; 6 or 7 villages, 500 persons under
ete O USL INS EGICHOMN 4 <5 sam at's sls tons Soreveroiave Were Sie S.i8 ba Hi evoners © Os sueislatelereveteisrstales SOO

126 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

353.

Total: All the Indians under confessional instruction under the charge of the
friars, not counting boys and girls (who are very numerous), sum up to 91,500;
this reckoning is rather under than over, for if one took the census lists

(padrones) the figure’ would ‘be higher’. «...... 0.5 os.csese ca <i one otis 91,500
Total: The friars who are engaged in instructing these people number 93,
of whom 84.and over are ordained priests... soc «<4. secryoriecinthserores cick: 03
Total: The Indian villages which are under the charge of the friars number
TBE 5G. 2 wie dewrhi a eye! Mevelaalele acausls aisle 4s bial 9) acebUhal alata fotehe cqeley otal old eam acer ee ae ee er nenetne 131
Total: The convents and guardianships established in this province number 30,
as results from: what has: been ‘detailed: aboves. sa 2 2 2)sie- < cioia se orveretrel teres ats 30

Besides the above-mentioned friars, ordained priests, who are at
present engaged in preaching in the native tongue, there are some
others, recent arrivals from Spain, who are at present studying and
learning the language, so that in all there will be over 112 friars.

(Here is inserted a small leaf in a different hand, with another
summary, viz:)

354. Memorandum of the convents, friars, Indian villages and
Indians under instruction, belonging to our order in this Province
of St. Joseph of Yucatan.

CONVENES) « 5.055.050: o1 nye gta recscovete tainty nisi aia oysteberciotans 30
SEA Se <hvecevet ecovs 4.04.6 218 ees aia tonelonenclaaa ec weacteteonte 112
Indian villages: c. fiecccic oe fxd sieecicesteonercPoree orcs 131
Indians under religious instruction............ 91,500

CHAPTER IV

Of the Clerics, Ordained Priests, Resident in the Province and
State of Yucatan, and the Villages and Indians under Their Charge.

355. In the city of Mérida, Licentiate Francisco de Avila, son of
a pioneer, well versed in the native tongue, and Vicar-General of
the entire Diocese.

In the benefice of Chantzonot and 7 other villages in which there are over
3,000 persons under religious instructions 1 priest. oie sec ate. ce elise 3,000
In the village of Tichel: over 800 persons under religious instruction, plus
children; they are instructed by Licentiate Hernando Sanchez Tinoco, well
versed in the native tongue; this village used to belong to the Franciscan friars ;
there are’ 4 villages 2 52 si cpniegs «oh ho Be aeie = ee ye ee elec eae 800
Father Juan Gomez Pacheco, well versed in the Indian language, has 6 villages
under instruction; the principal one is Tiscocob. There are in them over 2,800
persons under confessional instruction, plus small fry; these are likewise villages
withdrawn. from) the. Mranciscan trans... asectiancc cee eee 2,800
In the Province of Hocaba there are 9 villages, with 3,600 persons under
confessional instruction, plus children; there is a Franciscan convent, and 2
priests who instruct. them==s.4-1 o<sce eee ee oe oe eee AOR neta 3,600

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 127

356.

In the benefice of Ichmul, which belonged to the Franciscan friars, and where
there is a convent, there are 7 villages and in them over 2,800 persons under
confessional instruction administered by 2 priests..............c0eeeeeees 2,800

In the circuit of Sotuta there are 4 villages with over 2,000 persons under
confessional instruction administered by Father Diego Velasquez, son of a
pioneer and welll versed in the Indian language’).. ...ds0ce.s.dsc0.es0ce. 0 2,000

In the benefice of Yaxcaba, where there are 4 villages with over 2,000 persons
under religious instruction, the curate is Juan Alvarez de Gamboa, B. A..,
grandson of a pioneer and well versed in the native tongue............... 2,000

In the benefice of Peto there are 4 villages with over 1,800 persons under
confessional instruction administered by Licentiate Batazar de Herrera, well
Mense mina thiemnia tive tOMe esi n't cairo settee etocietehe aaa noise holla ene 1,800

In the port and town of Campeche, 1 curate and vicar has under his charge
2 villages, and the Spaniards’ servants, whom they call navorios in this country ;
there are over 1,000 persons under confessional instruction................ 1,000

357.

In the town of Valladolid, Spanish settlement, there are 2 curates, who have
under their charge 7 villages with more than 3,000 persons under confessional
RTTSUELTG CLOT ea eee Src er Pee Cate er oe Seer oh ier ea VE COOTER Bicone «ate cnc eas 3,000

Father Ortega, grandson of a pioneer, is curate for the Indians on the island
of Cozumel, where there are more than 800 persons under confessional instruc-
tion; their tribute is turned over by His Majesty to the curate in return for
CLIT TNS bist CELLO Mare ere ret tae testes caer evsyic eve) SSP rate cose soc terial sete ome crite ener s Ree ne 800

Father Gregorio Rodriguez is the curate for the outer wards of the city of
Mérida and the villages of Santiago, Santa Ana, Santa Lucia, and San Juan,
in which there are over 1,500 persons under confessional instruction; he is well
MEUSCUMM sth CrMAtiVe BLOM OIC mirsreucsa\stevepeterelevepeuclort) clenclieys%s (o/s) seks, Suctovecsy sua eters cues (aie 1,500

In the town of Bacalar, Spanish settlement, and in its district, which covers
80 leagues, there are 6 small villages with 600 persons under confessional instruc-
LION MCIIC OT liver CLITA LET, store, teatns ecck marae ieee erecta Gis Rie Paree ee «rel ania eevee 600

In the town of Tabasco and in the villages of its district there are 7 more
priests, ecclesiastics, and curates for Spaniards and Indians; there are over
Booonpersons: under confessional: instruction... 42)... «000+ 4+ eis 18 63+ ce se 3,000

358. In the Cathedral of Mérida there are 2 curates. There is
another curate for the Negroes and mulattoes of the city of Mérida,
both free and slave.

There is in this city of Mérida a professorial Chair of Latin,
taught by Juan Alonso de Lara, B.A., son of a pioneer; he has 500
pesos’ income from a chaplaincy, with obligation to teach this Latin
course.

There is a vicar for the nuns, viz, Father Flores Moran.

Father Ruiz is Chaplain to the Governor of the province.

Father Recalde is Sacristan of the church of Valladolid. Besides
them there are 8 other clerics in the city without occupation ; so that

128 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

there are in this Province of Yucatan 41 clerics occupied in the
activities described, in confessional instruction of 25,100 Indians (not
counting children) in 68 villages.

(One third of folio blank)

[359 and 360 repeat in almost the same words what is said in
345-347, beginning with the words “who had arrived from Spain in
the year 1535.”

361 begins “There are quantities of Campeche or brazilwood, which
is exported to Spain. There are in this province quantities of little
creatures which fly by night etc. (348). The natives are well in-
structed religiously. For dress the Indians wear etc..... under
the right arm, like the Apostles’ clothing. .... There are in this
province 16 convents of Franciscan friars and 6 districts under
priests. The Indians work and cultivate the land,’ All this was
crossed out. |

CHAPTER V

Of the City of Vera Cruz and the Port of San Juan de Ulloa, of
the Diocese of Tlaxcala, and of Other Matters in This District.

362, At the extremity of the Gulf of Mexico, leaving Florida to
the right hand on the N., and the Province of Yucatan on the left
hand to the S., lies the port of San Juan de Ulloa, which was dis-
covered by Capt. Juan de Grijalba in the year 1517 and is the chief
port for New Spain. One enters the harbor by the Laja channel,
which is the most used; for safe navigation of ships through it, since
there are many reefs and rocks and entrance is dangerous and diffi-
cult except in fair weather, they place little flags along the channel
on these reefs as signals and there hardly seems room enough for
the ships. One can get in also by the Gallega channel. The sailing
distance from Spain to this port is 1,900 leagues; it lies in full 18°N.
The harbor contains a small island little more than a gunshot off the
mainland; here there is a fortress with garrison under a Warden
appointed by His Majesty in consultation with the Royal Council of
the Indies, with 100 Spanish soldiers for the defense of the harbor,
and (blank) bronze cannon; there is on this island a wall or ram-
part 400 feet long with large, heavy bronze rings, to which they
fasten ships with strong cables because of the northers which blow
in this region from mid-September on; otherwise they would run
great risk of loss.

3863. The city of New Vera Cruz is located opposite the fortress
of San Juan de Ulloa on the mainland at the water’s edge; here is

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 129

unloaded all the merchandise [and wine] brought by the fleets and
ships from Spain; it is an active and wealthy trading center, since
it is the landing point of all the merchandise brought from Spain
[and] the shipping port for the gold, silver, cochineal, indigo, hides,
sugar, and other commodities produced over there. The city is lo-
cated [as has been noted] at the water’s edge on a sand bank; its
climate is hot and damp [and] somewhat unhealthy; when it rains
most of the drops [under influence of the climate] turn into [or
from them are produced some] tadpoles with tails which [tails] fall
off as the tadpoles grow and develop into big toads; at certain sea-
sons they utter such loud sounds that whoever did not know the
facts would suppose he was listening to calves bellowing.

364. The city will contain 400 Spanish residents. The construc-
tion is all in wooden planking, but they are already putting up many
stone houses. It has an excellent parish church and Dominican, Fran-
ciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, a hospital
for the indigent sick; there are other churches and shrines. It has
its pier, which had its beginning and [its] inception under Viceroy
Don Antonio de Mendoza; much merchandise is unloaded and ex-
ported here. This city is [much] frequented by crowds who come
down from New Spain when the fleets arrive, to get employment
and load freight ; although it is an expensive place in dull times, it is
well provided with all sorts of luxuries brought in from all quarters.

365. Around the city are many dunes or sand banks, and when
furious northers blow, they shift from one point to another. Two
royal officials reside here, appointed by His Majesty in consultation
with the Royal Council of the Indies. The city has a Corregidor
appointed by the Viceroy of New Spain for the satisfactory admin-
istration of the city and the dispensing of justice.

366. Five leagues to the westward [of this city] lies the city of
Old Vera Cruz, built on the bank of a large river called by its name.
Since it was an unhealthy site and very inconvenient for the dis-
charge of the ships’ merchandise, much the greater part of its inhabi-
tants left for the new city, although over 100 Spaniards [still] re-
side there because of its nearness to their ranches, on which they
raise cattle,»mares, horses, and hogs, and to their sugar mills, their
cornfields, sweet potatoes, and other cereals and root crops, and Span-
ish and native fruit ; everything grows luxuriantly. It is on the King’s
Highway for Mexico City, Puebla, and all of New Spain; [these
cities belong to the district of the Diocese of Tlaxcala, which is 60
leagues inland to the W.; the 30 leagues]. From the port to the city
of Jalapa it is 30 leagues ; this city has a hot climate, and very impor-

10

130 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tant sugar mills, and wide pastures; as far as the Rio de Alvarado
and Nueva Almeria there are countless herds of cattle, which pro-
duce quantities of hides which are shipped to Spain. On that quarter
of the Rio de Alvarado it is bounded by the Diocese of Oaxaca. In
this hot country is produced much sarsaparilla, and other roots, gums,
and medicinal extracts and fruits; all kinds of native fruit bear
abundantly.

CHAPTER VI

Continuing the Description of the Country and of the New Dio-
cese Which Orders Were Given To Create in the City of Vera Cruz
or Town of Jalapa, because It Is a Healthier Spot.

367. There are in the hot country district some Indian settle-
ments with many ranches and farms established by Spaniards, as
well as cattle ranches and sugar mills, together with other enterprises
and plantations of corn, tobacco, and other crops; on the coast 72
leagues N. of Vera Cruz lie the village and harbor of Tamiagua,
with Indian and Spanish residents, and with an important fishing
and shrimp industry because of the quantities obtained there. The
Viceroy appoints for this village and its province an Alcalde Mayor
for its satisfactory administration and the dispensing of justice. Here
is the boundary toward the village of Panuco, which lies some 30
leagues to the N. in the Archdiocese of Mexico.

368. Inland 30 leagues from the city of Vera Cruz lies the town
of Jalapa, where it is proposed to build the new Cathedral for the
section formed from the Diocese of Tlaxcala. Since this has a very
wide jurisdiction over thickly settled country and the Bishop is not
equal to visiting and confirming over its whole extent, and since it is
very rich in large revenues, His Majesty favored Licentiate Gutierre
Bernardo de Quirdés with the commission to divide it. This new
Diocese is to be enlarged by another small tract taken from the juris-
diction of the Diocese of Oaxaca along the coast up to Tabasco, from
its district in Yucatan. Thus all will be better accommodated, and it
will be possible to make better provision for pastoral visits and con-
firmations and for the satisfying of other emergencies which need
prompt handling in those new regions, as well as to aid in converting
the Indians and in their receiving sound doctrine and instruction.

369. The town of Jalapa is located on a marvelous site with a
delightful outlook, a springlike climate, bright skies, and wholesome
air; the fields are fertile and prolific, yielding excellent crops of
corn, wheat, and all Spanish and native fruit. The town will con-
tain 200 Spanish residents ; it has a good parish church, a Franciscan

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 131

convent, a hospital for the care of the indigent sick, and other
churches and shrines.

370. The town is near the King’s Highway from Vera Cruz to
Mexico and Puebla. The whole country is well covered with luxuri-
ant forests and threaded by streams of sweet and crystal-clear water,
very cool and delicious, so that it seems a bit of earthly Paradise; it
is always the same because of its equable climate. In this town’s dis-
trict there are cattle, mare, horse, and hog ranches, quantities of
wild and feathered game, and extensive pastures; there are oranges,
limes, citrons, grapefruit, valuable and highly prized cedar, ebony,
and cypress timber, liquidambar and other medicinal roots, gums,
cordials, and fruits.

371. The rivers running into the sea within this jurisdiction are,
on the S., the Rio de Alvarado, in 20°, along which at present the
Dioceses of Oaxaca and Tlaxcala draw their boundary; that of Rio
Medellin, called also Almeria, 5 leagues from Vera Cruz, which rises
in the Cordillera in the provinces of the Totonacos and Misantla;
15 leagues to the N. of Vera Cruz, the Rio de Zempoala; 27 leagues
N. of this, the Rio de San Pedro y San Pablo; 20 leagues farther
on from this river to the N., the Rio de Tuxpa y Cazones; the Rio
de Tamiagua is 13 leagues N. of that of Cazones y Tuxpa. All these
are large rivers full of delicious fish; as for other smaller streams
emptying into the sea, I omit mention of them since they are less
important.

CHAPTER VII

Of the Cities of Los Angeles, Tlaxcala and Other Features of
the District of the Diocese.

372. The city of Puebla de Los Angeles was founded by Justice
Salmeron by order of Bishop Don Sebastian Ramirez de Fuenleal,
President of the Mexico Circuit Court, in the year 1531 on the King’s
Highway from Vera Cruz to Mexico, in a plain called Cuetlaxcoapa
in the district of the city of Cholula and 2 leagues away from it; it is
5 leagues from the city of Tlaxcala, 22 from the City of Mexico,
and 60 from the port of Vera Cruz, in full 18°30’ N. It has a cool
climate and is well supplied with cheap and delicious provisions. It
is one of the best and largest cities in New Spain; it will have 3,000
Spanish residents, not to speak of many Indians, Negroes, and mulat-
toes of the servant class. The Cathedral was transferred to this city
from Tlaxcala in the year 1550; it is one of the largest and finest
churches to be found in the Indies, rivaling the largest and finest in
Spain, though not completed. When they excavated for the founda-

132 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tions for the fabric of this grand and holy church, they came upon
tombs of giants whose bones were of remarkable size. This city has
many very sumptuous convents of friars: that of the Dominicans ;
the Franciscan, in the ward called San Francisco, which is an exten-
sive suburb lying at the entrance to the city as one comes from Vera
Cruz to Mexico; there is a very holy image there called Nuestra
Sefiora de los Remedios (Our Lady of Refuge), which the first
pioneers brought with them; and by the means of this most holy
image God wrought great miracles in favor of the Spaniards and
of the Indians, toward their conversion; and so it enjoys the great-
est veneration from everyone because of its great miracles. In this
splendid convent lies the body of the sainted Brother Aparicio [blank],
a lay friar through whose intercession God our Lord wrought many
miracles during his life and after his death; since there is a book
written in copious detail about them and his most holy life and his
simplicity, I do not recount them, desiring to keep within my intent.

373. The Augustinian convent is splendid, and remarkable archi-
tecturally. The convent of Los Remedios of the order of Barefoot
Carmelites is one of the finest to be found in that kingdom; that of
Sts. Cosmas and Damian, of the Jesuit order, has large buildings and
considerable revenues and property ; there they give courses in Latin,
Arts, and Theology; in all these convents mentioned, courses at-
tended by many students are given with great care and solicitude ;
besides which, the Jesuits have another college for students and a
novitiate, founded by the Bishop of that city, Don Alonso de la Mota,
with large revenues, with the purpose of creating a university there,
and other convents.

374. This famous city contains 8 nunneries, which are very sump-
tuous and wealthy; these are La Concepcion, La Trinidad, Santa
Catalina, Santa Clara, Santa Teresa of nuns of the order of Bare-
foot Carmelites, San Jeronimo, another new convent of San Marcos,
and Jests Maria, all very devout. There is a general hospital en-
titled San Roque, rich and with much revenue; this is run by the
Brethren of Huaxtepec, who wear dark brown habits, like those of
the general hospital of this court; here they care for the indigent
sick and assist the recovery of poor cachupines (newcomers) re-
cently arrived from Spain. Every year these Brethren and those of
the splendid hospital of Mexico City and that of Huaxtepec, go
down to Vera Cruz for the arrival of the fleets; they take along
200 mules loaded with provisions, biscuit, preserves, and other deli-
cacies, which they keep leaving at the stage posts along the road, and
they load the mules with all the indigent sick and needy and take

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 133

them along and give them food for the love of God; without this
assistance and comfort it is certain that many would perish, and thus
by the agency of this blessed work and aid, all the poverty-stricken
are relieved.

375. There is a hospital of the Brethren of San Juan de Dids, in
which they care for the indigent sick and the poverty-stricken ; there
are other hospitals, churches, and pilgrimage shrines. The city is
a great commercial center, both because it is located at the junction
of the highways to the ports of Vera Cruz and Acapulco, so that the
wealthy encomenderos and residents of this city profit by the volume
of the merchandise which they freight to both ports with greater
ease and less expense, and also because it lies within the radius of
many large and wealthy cities; here they gather a huge amount of
very fine cochineal. It contains woolen mills, etc., and native products,
as will be detailed in the following chapter. Thus this city has grown
and is growing extensively, and its residents are successful and
wealthy.

CHAPTER VIII

Continuing the Description of the Features of This City and Dio-
cese, and of Other Cities.

376. There are in this city large woolen mills in which they weave
quantities of fine cloth, serge, and grogram, from which they make
handsome (gentiles) profits, this being an important business in this
country; and those who run these mills are still heathen (gentiles)
in their Christianity. To keep their mills supplied with labor for the
production of cloth and grograms, they maintain individuals who are
engaged and hired to ensnare poor innocents; seeing some Indian
who is a stranger to the town, with some trickery or pretext, such as
hiring him to carry something, like a porter, and paying him cash,
they get him into the mill; once inside, they drop the deception, and
the poor fellow never again gets outside that prison until he dies and
they carry him out for burial. In this way they have gathered in
and duped many married Indians with families, who have passed
into oblivion here for 20 years, or longer, or their whole lives, with-
out their wives and children knowing anything about them; for even
if they want to get out, they cannot, thanks to the great watchfulness
with which the doormen guard the exits. These Indians are, occu-
pied in carding, spinning, weaving, and the other operations of mak-
ing cloth and grograms; and thus the owners make their profits by
these unjust and unlawful means.

134 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

377. And although the Royal Council of the Indies, with the holy
zeal which animates it for the service of God our Lord, of His
Majesty, and of the Indians’ welfare, has tried to remedy this evil
with warrants and ordinances, which it constantly has sent and keeps
sending, for the proper administration and the amelioration of this
great hardship and enslavement of the Indians, and the Viceroy of
New Spain appoints mill inspectors to visit them and remedy such
matters, nevertheless, since most of those who set out on such com-
missions, aim rather at their own enrichment, however much it may
weigh upon their consciences, than at the relief of the Indians, and
since the mill owners pay them well, they leave the wretched Indians
in the same slavery; and even if some of them are fired with holy
zeal to remedy such abuses when they visit the mills, the mill owners
keep places provided in the mills in which they hide the wretched
Indians against their will, so that they do not see or find them, and
the poor fellows cannot complain about their wrongs. This is the
usual state of affairs in all the mills of this city and jurisdiction, and
that of Mexico City; the mill owners and those who have the mills
under their supervision, do this without scruple, as if it were not a
most serious mortal sin.

378. This city of Los Angeles (Puebla) is richly provided with
cheap and excellent supplies and is a busy trading center. In its dis-
trict they raise two abundant harvests of wheat each year, one in the
rainy season and one under irrigation; they grow quantities of corn,
from which they make the Indians’ ordinary bread; everybody eats
it in that country because it is very nutritive and delicious; in fact,
they desert good wheat bread for corn bread. Their way of pre-
paring it is to parch the corn with ashes, which softens it and takes
off the outer skin; they wash it at once in clear pure water, and if
for fine quality of bread, they remove the pointed tip; then they put
it at once in their metates—the stone mills they have for grinding it,
the same as they use for making chocolate—and grind it up very fine
and form it into tortillas (thin cakes) ; nearby they have a fire, and
on it their comales or callanas, which are like unglazed earthenware
saucepans ; these take the place of ovens for the baking; and they
serve them hot at table, which makes a very healthful food, rich in
nourishment and delicious.

379. This country produces abundantly all the Spanish cereals
and many native ones, with plentiful supplies of their delicious fruit,
and ours also. There are in this district large ranches which raise
abundance of cattle and sheep; the fields are full of them, utilized
both for food and for profit from the wool for the mills; they raise

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 135

mares, horses, mules, and hogs. In short, the region is abundantly
supplied with everything.

380. There are in the district of this city and Diocese more than
1,200 cities and villages, some of which will be described in the fol-
lowing chapter, together with the offices of Corregidor and Alcalde
Mayor to which the Viceroy makes appointment in this Diocese.
Two hundred of these villages and cities are county seats (cabezas
de partidos) and thus have 1,000 villages under their jurisdiction,
which will have in them over 250,000 tribute-paying Indians, with
36 ecclesiastical districts and curacies containing 40 convents of
Dominicans, Franciscans, and Augustinians, who are occupied in
catechizing the Indians and in administering the Holy Sacraments.

CHAPTER IX

Of the City of Tlaxcala and Other Cities, and of the Quantities
of Fine Cochineal Collected in the District, and of the Judicial Posts
Filled by the Viceroy in the District of This Diocese.

381. The city of Tlaxcala is so renowned and celebrated in that
kingdom because of the courage with which its inhabitants, the
valiant Tlaxcaltecas, defended and maintained themselves for long
periods against the Mexican (Aztec) kings; and since they took
the side of God as coworkers and friends of the Spaniards for the
subjugation of those realms, and for the introduction and preach-
ing of His Holy Gospel—for all this and for the important aid they
furnished the Marqués del Valle, Don Fernando Cortés, His Majesty
graciously created them gentlemen and hidalgos, and they possess
other privileges. The city of Tlaxcala (from which the Diocese takes
its name, and where the Cathedral stood for some years) lies 5 leagues
N. of Puebla de Los Angeles. The city has a large population, of
over 6,000 Indian residents and over 500 Spaniards; it has woolen
mills and many cattle ranches in its district. It takes in quantities of
fine cochineal, as do the other cities and villages in its jurisdiction ; and
if the Indians paid tithes in it, as the Bishop proposes and has taken
legal steps to authorize, the Diocese will have an annual income equal
to that of the Archdiocese of Toledo.

382. The cochineal grown in this country is of the finest quality.
It is produced on the tuna, which bears fruit of many varieties ; it is
called nopal (Indian fig); the tree or plant, tuna (prickly pear).
The leaves resemble pelota rackets and are of that size, and covered
with thorns; one leaf keeps growing out of another, and thus the
whole tuna plant is formed. On these leaves grow the tunas, which

136 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS - VOL. 102

are larger than white figs and covered with spines outside. When
the skin is peeled off, the fruit inside is full of little seeds, a bit larger
than anise seeds; it is sweet, well-flavored, healthful, and very re-
freshing. Some have the outer skin green and the inner flesh white ;
these are the best. Others have a yellowish skin, and others almost
tawny, with red flesh; they have a strong odor and perfume, and if
one eats many of them, they tinge the urine so that it looks like blood.
This red-fleshed tuna is the one producing cochineal; on its leaves
and fruit live tiny insects under a film like a cobweb; this insect
becomes all blood; and when they have matured and coagulated prop-
erly, they pick them off and put them in the sun till they dry and
are cured ; then they become the finest cochineal.

383. There is in the city of Tlaxcala a fine Franciscan convent.
They hold many fairs and markets in the city, for cattle, cloth, and
other merchandise; since it is a free city and has other privileges,
many flock to it. The Viceroy of New Spain appoints an Alcalde
Mayor for it; at the present moment His Majesty has appointed a
Governor and Alcalde Mayor for the city and its provinces, for its
satisfactory administration and for the dispensing of justice.

384, The city of Cholula lies 2 leagues from Puebla de Los
Angeles; it is a large city. In its heathen days over 25,000 warriors
used to sally forth from it. Today it has a large and wealthy popula-
tion, because of the great amount of cochineal, corn, and other prod-
ucts raised in its district. It contains two Franciscan convents; one
is very fine and contains many friars; here they give courses in Arts
and Theology ; and since the friars of this convent cannot handle all
the catechizing and administering of the Sacraments, there is on the
other side of the city another small convent called San Andrés, for
the religious needs of that quarter. Over 500 Spanish residents live
in this city; they have some woolen mills, where they produce much
cloth and grogram.

385. Three leagues from this city and five from Puebla on the
Mexico highway lies the city of San Diego de Huejotzingo, where
there is an image of the saint which is very sacred and miraculous and
held in highest veneration by the whole country. This city has the
same cool climate as the others; in its district they raise quantities of
cochineal, corn, wheat, and other cereals, fruit, and root crops; it
contains a woolen mill; in the region they raise many sheep, goats,
and hogs, and all sorts of other products.

386. Six leagues farther along the Mexico highway rises the vol-
cano Nevado, which in time past has given out quantities of smoke ;
connected with it is the Sierra de Tlaxcala which is of the same ele-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 137

vation and will be over 3 leagues long; many cypresses and pines
grow all over it, and on its slopes round about there are many Indian
settlements, especially to the E. and S. of the volcano. This is the
best stretch of land to be found in New Spain; they collect great
quantities of fine cochineal here; on the sierra and its slopes and in
all the region they graze large numbers of cattle and sheep of Spanish
stock.

387. The town of Atlixco lies 5 leagues from Puebla. It is built
in a fertile valley over 5 leagues long and over 14 wide. In the town
and the valley there are over 1,000 Spanish residents; there is an
excellent parish church and convents of the Dominicans, Franciscans,
Augustinians, Barefoot Carmelites, Mercedarians, and Jesuits ; there
are nunneries and a hospital for the care of the indigent sick, with
other churches and shrines. The climate of this valley and town is
marvelous, almost like spring; they harvest over 100,000 fanegas
(160,000 bushels) of the best wheat raised anywhere in New Spain,
quantities of corn and other cereals, and of fruit, so that the town
and its people are wealthy and do a large business.

CHAPTER X

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese, and
of the Corregidores and Alcaldes Mayores Appointed There by the
Viceroy.

388. The city of Tepeaca, 6 leagues SE. of Puebla, has over 5,000
Indians and 400 Spanish residents with an excellent Franciscan con-
vent for catechizing and the administration of the Holy Sacraments.
It enjoys the same climate and fertility of soil as the others. In the
neighborhood are large plains and valleys; the largest is Ozumba,
well covered with ranches of cattle, sheep, etc., and they raise quan-
tities of wheat, corn, and other cereals, both Spanish and native.

389. It contains in its district the famous San Pablo Valley, to
the ENE.; it is well covered everywhere with farms and ranches,
with large ranches of all kinds of stock; much wheat, corn, and other
cereals are grown in the valley. There will be over 1,300 Spaniards
settled in the valley and busied with stock raising, farming, and other
occupations. The famous Tlaxcala range, which provides Puebla and
other neighboring cities with wood, lies 3 leagues from Puebla de
Los Angeles ; in the neighborhood are many cattle ranches and farms
of wheat and corn.

390. The Diocese has jurisdiction over an extensive, wealthy, and
well-settled region. In length it extends along the Atlantic on the N.

138 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

from the village of Yahualica, where it borders on Panuco in that
quarter and with Tampico of the Archdiocese of Mexico, to Nueva
Almeria and the Rio de Alvarado on the S., where it borders on the
Diocese of Oaxaca; that comes to 85 leagues along the Atlantic coast
from Yahualica to the Rio de Alvarado; and it is over 100 leagues
across from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast, between the Archdiocese
of Mexico which lies somewhat N. of W. of it, and the Diocese of
Oaxaca on the E. and S. Along the Pacific coast it is some 20 leagues
broad from the Rio de Yepes near the harbor of Acapulco, where it
borders on the Archdiocese of Mexico, down to the large bay where
its jurisdiction ends and that of the Diocese of Oaxaca begins.

391. The Viceroy appoints in the district of the Diocese of Tlax-
cala to 33 judicial posts; 14 are Alcaldias Mayores. Although these
have low salaries, they have valuable perquisites, as I shall show in
its proper place. The best are marked with a cross. These posts are:
Puebla de Los Angeles, Tlaxcala (although that appointment is now
made by His Majesty), Acatlan, Chiautla de la Sal, Zacatlan, and
Hueytlapan, Tehuacan, the mines of Tonala and Zilacauyapa, the
mines of Tleutalco and Tlalzingo, the city of Tepeaca, the town of
Carrion de Atlixco, Old Vera Cruz, [the city and port of New Vera
Cruz], the town of Jalapa, the port of Tamiahua, Ysucar.

392. He appoints further in this Diocese for 19 Corregimientos,
viz: The city of Cholula, Chilapa, Ahuatlan and Coyatitlanapa,
Chietla, Cuzcatlan, the city of Huejotzingo, Huatlatlauca, Orizaba,
San Juan de los Llanos, San Antonio de Huatusco, Tlapa, Tonatico
and Zozocolco, Teziutlan and Atempa, Tepeji de la Seda, Tixtla and
Zumpango, Tuxtepec and Quimixtlan, the city and port of New Vera
Cruz, Jalacingo, Xonotla; not to mention many other officials he ap-
points in this district, like mill inspectors, cochineal inspectors, and
others with large perquisites.

393. There is in this country and in all New Spain a mysterious
plant or shrub called maguey (agave), which resembles the aloe.
From this the Indians make their wine, which they call pulque, by
slashing the leaves or cutting off the top shoot or boring holes in the
stem; from the juice which oozes out they make their wine, which is
sweet in taste; they throw in a root also. With this the Indians get
drunk; they are greatly given to it, and this beverage causes much
harm, as I have remarked in the book I published in the year 1623,
entitled “Luz y Guia del Cielo” (Light and Guide to Heaven), on
folio 33. From this plant they make honey water and excellent honey
vinegar like that from sugarcane; they make thread with which to
sew the cotton blankets the natives use for clothing, and use the fibers

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 139

attached to the thorny points of the leaves, for sewing alpargatas
(rope sandals). The leaves have much medicinal value for the treat-
ment of cuts and wounds and other troubles. They make cord from
the leaves just as from hemp; in that country they call this cord
mecate ; the leaves serve as tiles for their houses; and the shoot or
stalk it puts forth, being tall and stout, is used like a joist in Indian
construction and much else. Let this brief description suffice for the
district of this Diocese, as we pass on to treat of the Diocese of
Mexico.

CHAPTER XI

Of the Great City of Mexico, Seat of the Court and Capital of
the Realms of New Spain; of Its Foundation and Beginnings in the
Days of Heathendom, and of the Kings Who Reigned There, and
Their Dates.

394, The original immigrants who settled the realms of New
Spain, according to the ancient traditions of the Indians and to what
has been written on the subject, comprised seven tribes. According
to the account and explanation given by the Indians, these issued
forth from seven caves, and that was the source from which they are
derived. By their reckoning it was 800 years ago that they left
Nabatlan ; and before reaching the territory of Mexico they tarried
80 years on the road, engaged in colonizing cities along the way.

395. The first were the Xochimilcos, who founded the city of
Xochimilco, which means city of flowers; those of the second line
or tribe were the Chalcos, who founded the city of Chalco and other
towns; those in the third line were the Tapanecas, who founded
Tacuba and Atzcapotzalco to the N. of Mexico City, on the shore of
the great lake, and many other towns, for this tribe had much in-
creased and multiplied. The fourth were those who founded the
city of Texcoco; the fifth founded Caulnagal or Cuernavaca; these
were highlanders. The sixth were the Tlaxcaltecas, who crossed the
sierra and founded the city of Tlaxcala, which means city of bread,
and other cities and towns; there were many giants there, whom they
slew with tricks and cunning, for their savagery and hostility inter-
fered with the colonizing. Thus these various lines of descent fin-
ished settling the territory of New Spain, by the reckoning of their
books and annals, in the year 880 after the birth of our Lord and
Savior Jesus Christ; by the reckoning given by some of our authors
and historians, in the year goo.

396. Those of the seventh line were the Mexicans, who came and
settled New Spain 302 years later, i.e., in 1202. These brought with

140 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

them their god or idol Vitziliptztli on the shoulders of four of their
false priests in a chest of reeds. They set forth confiding in the
promises which the Devil had made them, that he would give them
lands rich in promise, thus desiring to liken himself to God, who
commanded the children of Israel to go up out of Egypt to give them
the lands He had promised them; and so, just as they went many
years through the Wilderness until with their victories through God’s
aid they entered and took possession of the Land of Promise, so the
Mexicans traveled a long time, like the other tribes, always doing
what the Devil commanded them to do, until they reached the desired
spot. And there they founded the city of Mexico among reeds and
cattails in the year 1202, the third year of the reign of Ciutetl, fif-
teenth king or lord of New Spain; and immediately they began
warfare with the Tepanecas who had been oppressing them, and
with other tribes to whom they paid tribute also, as will be told in
its place.

397. Or else, as they maintained in their accounts and books, and
as Gomara records on folio 291, the Mexicans came from a village
called Chicomuztotlh, and were all descended from one father whose
name was Iztacmixcoatlh and who had children by two wives. By
Llancueitl, one of the two, he had six sons; the first was named
Xelhua, the second Tenuch, the third Ulmecatlh, the fourth
Xicalancatlh, the fifth Mixtecatlh, the sixth Otomitlh. By the other
wife, whose name was Chimalmatlh, he had a son, Quezalcoatlh.

Xelhua, the eldest, founded Quauhquechulan, Izcuzan, Epatlan,
Teopantlan, Theouacan, Cuzcatlan, Teotitlan, and other towns.

Tenuch established Tenuchtitlan; distinguished men came from
there, who became lords of all their family and of other tribes.

Ulmecatlh settled the territory of Tlaxcala and named the towns
Totomiuacan, Vicilipan, Cuetlaxcoapan, as well as others.

Xicalancatlh founded Xicalanco on the Atlantic coast in the Prov-
ince of Maxcalcinco near Vera Cruz, and the Xicalanco near Tabasco,
which has been and is a busy trading center, and many other towns.

Mixtecatlh established Tututepec by the Pacific, and Acatlan, and
settled all of Mixteca, which is an extensive territory.

Otomitlh established settlers on all the mountain ranges around
Mexico City, at Jilotepec, Tulan, Otompan, and Ozumba, and many
other places.

Quezalcoatlh rebuilt Tlaxcala, Huejotzingo, Cholula and others,
and among those tribes he was reverenced as a god, because they
say he kept his chastity; he instituted fasting and did other things

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA I4I

for which they held him in reverence. What has been stated above is
related by divers historians.

CHAPTER XII

Of the Origin and Filiation of the Kings and Lords Who Lived
in New Spain.

398. Now that we have given some information about what the
historians tell us regarding where the Mexicans came from, accord-
ing to their annalists’ reckoning (as is stated by Gomara) they
reached New Spain in A.D. 721. The first lord whom they name
is Topeuch, who lived to be over 100 years old. At his death they
met in Tulan and chose as their lord his son Topil, then 22 years old.
From A.D. 821 he ruled 50 years; and since he left no sons, they
remained without king or lord for 110 years after his death. In the
year 981 they met in Tulan and chose two lords; one was Vemac and
the other Nauhiocin, who lived with his subjects near the lake; he
reigned 60 years, until 991; at his death he was succeeded by Quauh-
texpetatli, who was the fifth king and lord of that country. He was
followed by Vecin; the seventh was Noualcati, and the eighth
Achitomel. The ninth was Quauhtonal, and in the tenth year of his
reign the Mexicans (those of the seventh great line) came in, arriv-
ing at Chapultepec.

399. The tenth king or lord was Mazacin, who was succeeded by
Queza, the eleventh; the twelfth was Chalchittona, the thirteenth
Quauhtlix, and the fourteenth Iohuallatonac. The fifteenth king was
Ciutetl, who established the Mexicans in Mexico City in the year
1202. Xiuiltemoc was the sixteenth king, being followed by Cuxcux,
who was the seventeenth. He was succeeded by the eighteenth king
and lord, Acamapixtli, and in the sixth year of his reign he was
killed by a Mexican prince named Achitometl, who likewise killed
his six sons, heirs to the State; he thus became the nineteenth king,
and exalted himself and tyrannized over the realm. On this occasion
Illancucit! escaped with Acamapixtli, a son of the murdered man,
and brought him up hidden in the woods for I2 years, the period
during which Achitometl was reigning despotically in Culhuacan,
which was decimated by the murders and tyrannical acts of Achi-
tometl. Apprehensive because of the murders he had committed and
the cruelties he had perpetrated, he fled to avoid being assassinated ;
and thereupon, since there was no king, the local lords began to rule
in Atzcapotzalco, Cuauhnauac, Chalco, Cuauhtitlan, and Huejotzingo.

I42 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

400. At the end of this time, Acamapixtli having grown up and
become the twentieth king in the woods and in Cuauhtitlan, they
brought him to Mexico City in the year 1382; and since he was legiti-
mate lord of the house of Culhua, the noblest gentlemen of Mexico
gave him their daughters to be his wives. He chose up to 20 of them,
and from the children he had by them are descended the greatest
aristocrats of that country. He went back to Culhuacan, which had
been abandoned at the death of his father and grandfather, and built
it up again, and left his son Nauhiocin the lordship and kingdom in
Mexico, and was lord of Culhuacan as his father and grandfather
had been. He reigned 40 years as a great prince and with much suc-
cess; with him, the empire of Mexico began its extension, and he
ennobled the city of Mexico. He died in the year 1422 and was suc-
ceeded by his eldest son, by name Viciliuitl, whom the Mexicans
obeyed as king and lord; he married the lady and heiress of Cuauh-
nauac. Viciliuit! means rich feather. After reigning 12 years and
defending his vassals from their enemies, he died of illness in the
year 1434. He was followed by his brother Chimalpopoca; and in
the third year of his reign, in the year 1437, he was treacherously
murdered by the Tapanecas, which resulted in their destruction and
subjection, and in the exaltation of the Mexican people, who at this
cruel treachery, took up arms and conquered and subdued all their
enemies, making themselves masters of all those tribes, who always
paid them tribute thereafter.

401. He was succeeded in the kingdom and lordship by his illegiti-
mate brother Izcoatl, which means tusked serpent. With this king
the Mexican empire began to be very powerful through the victories
he won over his enemies; through the instrumentality of Tlacalléelt,
a valiant general of the Mexican people, he conquered and subdued
many provinces and tribes; he embellished and enlarged the city of
Mexico, and after reigning 12 years, he died in 1449.

402. At his death he was succeeded in the kingship by Motezuma,
his nephew and Tlacalléelt’s, son of Viciliuitl his elder brother, be-
cause sons did not succeed to the royal position held by their fathers,
if there were father’s brothers living, till their uncles’ death. Mote-
zuma reigned 28 years, during which time he won great victories
which brought him many wealthy provinces, with which he enlarged
his empire, ennobled the city of Mexico and embellished it with sump-
tuous and imposing temples which he built to his false gods. He
added splendid buildings to the city, and established tribunals for
good government and the dispensation of justice; and being beloved
by his vassals and feared by his enemies, he died in the year 1477.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 143

Since he had no sons, he was succeeded by one of his daughters who
was married to a Mexican prince, by whom she had sons—Axayaca,
Tizocic, and Auzolt.

403. At the death of Motezuma he was succeeded by his grandson
Axayacacin, eldest son of his son. He reigned 11 years, during which
he proved a valiant king and conquered and subdued his enemies the
inhabitants of Tlaltelolco, and won many other provinces, up to
Huatulco and Tehuantepec, and having ennobled his city, extended
its empire, and performed other deeds of a good king, he died in the
year 1492 lamented by his subjects. He was succeeded in the kingly
office by his brother Tizocic, but he did not last long; he was a
coward and a bad king, and his subjects poisoned him very soon.

CHAPTER XIII

Continuing the Account of the Filiation of the Mexican Kings.

404, At the death of Tizocic he was succeeded by his third brother
Auzolt, grandson of Motezuma, as it was the custom in that royal
family that sons should not succeed to the throne while brothers were
living. He was a good king and conquered large provinces as far as
Guatemala and extended his empire; he was much liked and beloved
by his vassals and especially by the poor, for all that he had and ac-
quired, he gave them and shared with them, relieving their neces-
sities ; he consoled the afflicted, and all that he lacked to be a good
king was knowledge of Christ. Besides these good qualities, he was
a brilliant administrator. Considering how noble and powerful his
city was, and that all that it needed was water, he brought in a great
quantity of it with which to supply the city, and that is what it has
at present. Having reigned with such admirable virtues I1 years,
beloved by. his subjects and feared by his enemies, he died in 1503
and was mourned by his vassals. At his death he was succeeded in
the kingship by his cousin Motezuma, son of Axayacacin his elder
brother ; they named him Motezuma after his grandfather, the great
Motezuma. He began to reign in the year 1503; he was a good king
and in the 15-year period of his reign through his captains he con-
quered and acquired many provinces, as far as the extreme limit of
Nicaragua and the whole of Tegucigalpa. He was a powerful king
and lord of great realms and provinces, in which he had 30 subject
lords, each with 100,000 vassals, and over 3,000 lords of greater
and smaller provinces, all of whom obeyed him and paid him tribute,
as is related by Gomara, folio 66, and Herrera, decade II, book VII,
chapter IX. He was so powerful that in that country he was
respected and held as a god.

144 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

405. While he was enjoying this majesty and prosperity, valiant
Fernando Cortés, who later became Marqués del Valle, came in with
his companions at the end of the year 1518, and in his very palace
where he had over 3,000 men on guard and among them over 600
nobles, as Gomara states on folio 107, more by divine order than
by human powers, he captured him; for besides his personal guard
just mentioned, and the fact that it was in his own country and in a
city which was one of the greatest strongholds in the world, there
were over 200,000 men in it, by all of whom he was liked and be-
loved ; they might easily have killed the Spaniards and sacrificed them,
and even have eaten them, which was a common practice among
them.

406. But God in His divine wisdom had chosen Cortés and his
few companions as instruments for the deliverance of those blind
heathen from slavery to the Devil, by preaching to them His Holy
Gospel and giving it to them all for their understanding ; accordingly
He so influenced the will of the Emperor Motezuma (who had them
all shut up in his palace and if his subjects had had an inkling that
he would like to have the Spaniards slain, they would all have
perished without a single one escaping) that he conceived a special
love and affection for Fernando Cortés and his followers, continu-
ally making them gifts and presents and commanding his men to
obey and respect the Spaniards. But when Fernando Cortés had
returned to Vera Cruz to oppose Pamphilo de Narvaez, having left
the Emperor Motezuma in charge of his men, Cortés being absent
the Indians rebelled and bottled up the Spaniards whom he had left
under the charge of the Emperor Motezuma, and if Cortés had not
returned speedily, they would all have perished. Finally at his com-
ing the Spaniards took courage and defended themselves from the
fury of the Indians and the attacks they were making; in order to
calm them by the presence and the actual sight of their king, Cortés
and his companions asked Motezuma to go up to a high point in the
palace where they could see him, and order them to cease the fighting
and the madness they were indulging in; and after he had ordered
them to stop their attacks and quiet down, for a short time they
remained silent, but then they returned to the charge and with loud
cries began throwing stones, and although our soldiers shielded him
at the point where he was standing, he was cruelly wounded by a
missile from one of his own people, so that he died a few days later,
to the great distress both of the Spaniards and his own subjects, and
without having received the baptism which he had so much desired
and had begged of Cortés; it was planned for Easter, that being a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 145

festival befitting the needs of such a monarch; but if he asked for
it with genuine desire, it was sufficient that he died with that wish,
that being the case called by the theologians and summarists bap-
tismum flaminis, etc.

407. At his death in the midst of that uprising, he was succeeded
by his brother Cuetlauac, who lived 60 days after his election, and
died of smallpox ; he had married a niece of his, daughter of Mote-
zuma. Axayaca, the third brother, should have succeeded him, but
as there was a general revolt, the High Priest Quautimoc his nephew,
who was ambitious to be king and defend the country against the
Spaniards, killed his uncle Axayaca, seized the supreme power and
issued dictatorial commands. He defended the city courageously until
on August 13, 1521, Cortés captured it, and over 100,000 of the
Mexicans perished, including most of the city’s aristocracy. Thus
after the death of Motezuma’s brothers, his sons inherited the
kingship.

CHAPTER XIV

Continuing the Account of the Filiation of the Mexican Kings.

408. When the uprising of the Mexicans forced the Spaniards to
leave Mexico City after the death of Motezuma resulting from the
stone wound he had received from the Mexicans, as the Spaniards
realized that they were bereft of the Emperor Motezuma’s support,
without which they could neither hold out nor defend themselves any
length of time, Fernando Cortés decided they should leave at night ;
and so they did, but the Mexicans found it out and many of the
Spaniards died in the retreat, and among them two sons of Mote-
zuma and other aristocrats, so that only Don Pedro Motezuma was
left, for at the outbreak of the rebellion he had taken refuge in Tulan
with his mother.

409. After the conversion of this Prince Motezuma to Christianity
he was named Don Pedro, and Fernando Cortés turned over to him
one of the wards of Mexico City, as was suitable for the lord and
sole heir of that city and empire. The Emperor Motezuma left also
several daughters, two of them legitimate, as mentioned by the his-
torians ; after their baptism the one was named Dojia Isabel and the
other Dofia Leonor. Before her conversion Dofia Isabel had been
married to her uncle Cuetlauac, and after his death in second nuptials
with Quautimoc, and after her conversion she became the wife of
Pedro Gallego, by whom she had a son, Juan Gallego Motezuma;
and after the death of Pedro Gallego she was married for the last
time to Juan Cano de Caceres, by whom she had many children,

Ie

146 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

some of whose descendants live today in Mexico City. Dona Leonor
was married to Alonso de Grado, as is recorded by Gomara, folio 295.

410. But the one to be mentioned in the male issue and filiation of
the Mexican kings is Prince Motezuma, who after his baptism was
named Don Pedro. He was the legitimate son of the Emperor Mote-
zuma and the lady sovereign of the Province and State of Tula, who
after her conversion and baptism took the name of Dofia Maria
Miaguasuchil; she was the granddaughter of Chimalpopoca, King
of Mexico. Thus Prince Don Pedro Motezuma inherited and took
possession of the Province and State of Tulan, as his mother’s dowry
which she brought with her when she was married to the Emperor
Motezuma, viz, Tulan, Yzcla, Xicomallan, Ytolpan, Teptlan, Teato,
Tilcoya, Yuvalco, Techuchueco, Yagulgulpa, Yextaxemitexe, Yeteque,
Ytecaquipan, Exicoalt, Toltengo, Tecontepongo, Cyztasaqualla,
Ecuyelpan, Cacoculco, Etloca, Tealpongo, and Teapa; these 22 vil-
lages belong to the Province of Tula, and their lords were all related
to the kings of Mexico and gave them their daughters in marriage,
as is recorded in their histories and is proved by the family tree of
the male genealogy and filiation of the kings of Mexico.

411. Furthermore His Majesty King Don Felipe II (Philip IT)
of glorious memory, to honor Prince Don Pedro Motezuma as lord
of that realm, and because of what the Emperor Motezuma had done
for the profit and advancement of the Spanish Crown in submitting
to Cortés and putting himself under the protection of the Caesarean
Majesty of Emperor Charles V, made him a grant of 3,000 gold
pesos de minas of 450 maravedis each on March 23, 1567, command-
ing by his royal warrant that the Marqués de Falces, who was then
Viceroy of New Spain, should settle this sum on him in open assign-
ments of Indians which should be entailed in perpetuity in the family
of this Prince Don Pedro and his descendants and successors, and
they have enjoyed and do enjoy these privileges, which however are
paid out of the Mexican Royal Treasury.

CHAPTER XV

Recording the Surviving Descendants of the Mexican Kings.

412. It has likewise been certified that Prince Don Pedro Mote-
zuma, sole successor of the Emperor Motezuma, and his children,
are the heirs to the Province of Tula, through a lawsuit which was
fought in the Mexican Chancery Court between this Prince Don
Pedro Motezuma and Dofia Maria Miaguasuchil his mother, on the
one hand, and on the other His Majesty’s Attorney, Licentiate Lopez

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 147

de Sarria, over the Province of Tula; and after the Mexican Chan-
cery had adjudged it to him as sole heir and successor to this State,
the Supreme Council of the Indies, reviewing the case, adjudged him
this Province of Tula and its villages on April 16, 1561.

413. The same fact is certified by the will made by this Prince Don
Pedro Motezuma when he was lying at death’s door in the house of
his abode which was next the Carmelite convent of Nuestra Sefiora
del Carmen, where the church of San Sebastian is now, on Septem-
ber 8, 1570, in which he declared himself the sole son and heir of
Motezuma and of Dofia Maria Miaguasuchil, Lady of the Province
of Tula, which she had brought as dowry to Emperor Motezuma,
when he married her.

414, It is likewise certified by the chapel and burial place which
this Prince Don Pedro Motezuma made for himself in the splendid
convent of Santo Domingo in Mexico City, in the main body of the
church, with the following inscription upon it: “Chapel and burial
place of Don Pedro Motezuma, prince, heir of the great Motezuma,
lord of the greater part of this New Spain.” Prince Don Pedro Mote-
zuma was married to Donia Catalina Miaguasuchil of the same family
and royal blood of Tula and of Mexico. They had a son, Don Diego
Luis Motezuma, who, as legitimate and sole successor of his father,
after his death inherited and succeeded to the estate and entail. He
came to Spain at His Majesty’s command and in the city of Guadix
married Dona Francisca de la Cueva y Bocanegra. They had legiti-
mate children of whom the eldest was Don Pedro Tesifon Motezuma,
Knight of the Order of Santiago, who succeeded him in the State
of Tulan and in the entailed primogeniture established by the above-
mentioned prince his grandfather, as is well known and certified by
royal executive warrants and the will drawn up by this Prince Don
Pedro his grandfather, and by the statement which this Don Pedro
Motezuma and his brothers presented to His Majesty King Philip III
of glorious memory, attested in Madrid before Jer6nimo Fernandez,
notary, on January 26, 1612, regarding the lawsuit and the rights
belonging to them in the realms and States of New Spain, which
had been those of their great-grandfather, the Emperor Motezuma.

415. This Don Diego Luis Motezuma had likewise by his lawful
wife, Dofa Francisca de la Cueva y Bocanegra, these children: Don
Francisco Antonio Motezuma, who is Gentilhombre de Boca (Royal
Steward) of His Majesty; Don Felipe Marcelino Motezuma, Knight
of the Order of Santiago; Don Cristobal Motezuma, who died in the
flower of his age; and Dofia Maria Motezuma. To them all His
Majesty granted the favor of 1,500 ducats’ income, to each of them,

148 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and to this Dofia Maria, a cloak of Santiago as dowry for who-
soever should marry her.

416. Besides these favors above enumerated, in consideration of
the dignity of this Don Pedro Tesifon Motezuma, and of the wel-
come given by his great-grandfather the Emperor Motezuma to
Cortés and his Spaniards, and of the formal transfer which he made
of his empire into the hands of this Fernando Cortés, first Marqués
del Valle, for the Spanish Crown—in order that this Don Pedro
Tesifon Motezuma might worthily represent the name and the high
esteem of his ancestors, King Philip IV our Lord, after confirming
him in the entailed primogeniture established by Prince Don Pedro
Motezuma and in the possession of the Province of Tula as sole suc-
cessor and heir of that royal house of the Emperor Motezuma,
gave him the title of Vizconde de Ylucan on February 24, 1627, and
later in the same year as a greater favor, the title of Conde de
Tultengo de Motezuma, on September 13.

CHAPTER XVI

Of the Great City of Mexico, Its Foundation, and the Omens
Which Took Place, up to the End of the Mexican Monarchy.

417. The great city of Mexico was named Tenoxtitlan, which
means prickly pear on a rock; the Indians of the Mexican tribe bore
this name because the captain or chief who led and governed them,
was named Mexi; so they called themselves Mexicanos and the city
they founded, Mexico. Now it came to pass that their god or idol
Vitzilipuztli commanded those of this tribe to leave their native home,
assuring them of a land of promise, rich in gold, silver, and other
valuable commodities, and abounding in food, and that he would
make them masters of it and subject its princes to them. So they
left their country and wandered many years, during which they suf-
fered great hardships; their idol was borne all this time with great
veneration in a casket or reliquary of reeds on the shoulders of four
of their false priests; thus it appears that the treacherous enemy of
the human race desired to imitate God our Lord when He commanded
His people to go up out of Egypt, announcing the Land of Promise.

418, Vitzilipuztli solved problems and oracles for that blind heathen
folk, and in their afflictions and hardships he encouraged and com-
forted them, telling them what they were to do; and at the same time
he taught them superstitious rites with most cruel human sacrifices
and other diabolical ceremonies, as is related by various writers of
Mexican history; for the Devil always aims at injury to mankind,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 149

and he only tells them a truth in order to deceive them thereby with
many lies. So when his people had reached the end of many years’
pilgrimage and hardships and were in sight of the great Lake of
Mexico, although on their way they had settled Michoacan and other
provinces, he told them that they were now in the land of their de-
sire, which he had promised them, and that they should search for
a place where they would find a prickly pear growing on a rock, with
an eagle perched upon it ; that was the place where they should build
their city.

419. When they found the spot indicated, they built their city in
the middle of the lake among beds of reeds and cattails, and they
named it Tenoxtitlan, for the reason given above, and the tribe
Mexico, derived from the name of their chieftain Mexi; and although
it had such slight and meager beginnings among those beds of reeds,
it became the largest settlement and city to be found in all the Indies.
And the Mexicans its founders were so valiant that in a short time
they made themselves masters of all the country; they divided the
city or settlement into four wards according to their chieftains or
leaders; at the present day these are the one where Santa Maria la
Redonda is located, San Juan, San Pablo, and San Sebastian.

420. Some members of this tribe, feeling themselves aggrieved,
went out from among their fellows and established another city
nearby, which they named Tlaltelolco, which is where Santiago stands
at the present day ; these likewise grew exceedingly and showed them-
selves hostile on every occasion to the residents of Mexico. There
were nine kings of this tribe who reigned for the duration of this
Mexican monarchy, which was a little over 100 years; during this
time they conquered and brought under their sway many tribes and
provinces, as far as Nicaragua; they accepted them all under the con-
dition of fief and vassalage, exception made for the tribes of Tlascal-
teca, Tepeaca, and Michoacan, who always resisted them valiantly.

421. In the days of the eighth king of the Mexicans, Motezuma
the second of that name, in the fourteenth year of his reign (which
was the year 1517), after learning of important omens portending
the collapse of his monarchy, he received word from the Indians on
the Atlantic coast that great ships had made their appearance there
such as had never been seen on those shores, and that in them came
men who were children of the Sun, very different from them in dress
and elegance. This brought great solicitude and anxiety to Motezuma
and his courtiers, though he concealed it for the moment. That was
when Hernando Cortés arrived on his expedition; and when he had
received word of this powerful Kingdom of Mexico, he went back

I50 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

for further supplies of men, arms, and munitions suitable for such
an undertaking.

422, First came portentous omens, as the histories tell us, viz:
the idol of Cholula announced to Motezuma that a people from abroad
would take his kingdom from him; the King of Texcoco, who was
a great wizard, predicted hardships and misfortunes for him, and so
did all the wizards and soothsayers of his kingdom. So the King
ordered a huge rock to be brought, for solemn sacrifices to be offered
upon it, to appease his gods; and when a large force had gone to get
it, a voice was heard—which was not the will of the Most High—to
the effect that they should sacrifice upon it ; and when he had ordered
them to do so in that spot, the same voice was heard again, saying
that as a sign that this was its will, it would allow itself to be carried
away, and that later they would not be able to move it. It did allow
itself to be taken to the environs of the city, and there it dropped into
a canal and they never saw it again, except in its original location.
There appeared in the sky a great flame like a pyramid, at midnight,
and it lasted till the morning at sunrise and it kept going till noon, and
that lasted a year. A comet came into view at midday and sailed
across from W. to E., leaving a trail of great sparks. The great Lake
of Mexico boiled up and many houses collapsed though there was
neither earthquake nor wind. On the lake fishermen found a bird as
large as a stork, which they brought to the King; it had on its head
a sort of mirror in which could be seen at noon the sky and the stars
and men warring against the Mexican kingdom; and when they had
summoned the soothsayers to interpret the mystery, it disappeared.
An eagle seized a farmer in its talons and carried him off to a cave
and showed him King Motezuma asleep and told him to touch him;
but as they held him in such reverence, he did not dare to; but the
voice told him to go up to him without fear; that it was now time
for him to pay for his tyrannical acts and for having himself wor-
shiped as a god. The voice commanded him to take the King’s
incense-rod (pebete) which he was holding in his hand and burn his
thigh with it; that he would not feel it; and so it happened. Then
the voice bade the farmer tell the King about this; and when he had
done so, the King discovered that he had a burn on his thigh (as he
had been told) without having felt it, and he was much disturbed by
it. And many other omens.came to pass, which may be seen in the
history of that kingdom written by Father Joseph de Acosta of the
Company of Jesus, on folio 514, and in other historians.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA I51

CHAPTER XVII

How Fernando Cortés, Marqués del Valle, after Learning of
That Powerful Kingdom, Marched into It and Conquered It; and
of the Chief Events Which Took Place in the Siege of the City of
Mexico.

423. After the omens above described and many others had taken
place, as represented in the Mexican annals by their figures and paint-
ings, the coast Indians brought him all that the Spaniards had given
them and paintings in their native characters and figures, of the ships,
and of the sort of people they were. Thereupon Motezuma was com-
pletely baffled and thought over the matter; he assembled the mem-
bers of his council for consultation on what could be done to fore-
stall such people. Accordingly he gave orders for great caution to
be observed along the coast, with sentinels posted as lookouts. But
God our Lord had so ordained it in His Divine Providence, so that
the light of His Holy Gospel might come in upon that blind nation,
and thus drive out the darkness of heathendom and with it, the enemy
of the human race, who had had such powerful hold on them, making
them carry out such cruel and revolting human sacrifices as took place.

424, (In margin: And Dr. Juan de Solérzano, ‘De Jure India-
rum,” lib. C. V, N. 29, and all through the chapter, exalts this valiant
captain and tells how, when he had been sent by Diego Velasquez,
Governor of Cuba, on November 18, 1518, with 11 ships and 500
soldiers, he surpassed the most renowned captains in the world by
his courage in conquering completely those countries.) At the be-
ginning of the year 1518, Marqués Fernando Cortés arrived with
his fleet and his men on the coast, and there courageously and with
the favor of Heaven (although to worldly eyes it seemed overbold),
he ordered his ships burned up, so that his men should lose that hope
and should realize that, with God’s help, they must rely on their own
right arms and conquer or die. At this time Motezuma sent ambas-
sadors to him, having heard that he was the great lord Quetzalcoatl,
a prince whom they expected from their traditions or false prophe-
cies to come from the East, and they bade him welcome; the ambas-
sadors’ message was made known through the interpreter Marina.
Motezuma offered to be his servant, for he had had word that his
lord Topilzin was about to come. Cortés received the embassy with
great dignity and affection; and if it had not been that the Indians
gained the impression that the Spaniards were undisciplined, all those
tribes would have received the Gospel immediately in perfect peace,
for they were tired of the cruel rites and sacrifices which the Devil

152 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

had taught them; but they were intimidated by the Spaniards, who
had the ships fire all their artillery, and committed other extrava-
gances; so the Indians returned disgusted and informed their King
Motezuma that these were not the people they expected, for they
were cruel, haughty, and overbearing.

425. Thereupon—and not without divine order or permission, as
a result of the dreadful sins of that same King, who had caused him-
self to be reverenced and worshiped as god, and of those of his min-
isters, as well as of those of the Spaniards, although they were the
instruments of divine justice—the savage tried to block the Spaniards’
penetration of his country, by many methods, and as the most effec-
tive, he made use of wizards and sorcerers. They started on their
journey to see if they could stop the Spaniards by this means; but
when actually on their way, they were threatened and reproved by
the Devil, for Divine Wisdom had so ordained ; and so they returned
in fear and trembling to their King Motezuma, reporting that those
people were more than human, for all their learning and power did
not prevail against them, to prevent their expedition; whereupon the
King became more bewildered and cast down, and decided to make
a virtue of necessity by going out to meet them.

426. Meanwhile the Marquis had formed a friendly alliance with
the members of the Tlascalteca tribe, sworn enemies of Motezuma,
who gave all possible service and supplies to the Marquis and his
men; they pressed onward, and before they entered Mexico City,
Motezuma came out to meet them at about a league from the city.
He came in great majesty, borne on the shoulders of four of his lords
in a golden sedan chair with great wealth of decoration and feather-
work; and after the King and the Marquis had exchanged saluta-
tions, they entered the city. There the Marquis and his men were
lodged in the King’s own palaces, which he had vacated for that pur-
pose; and there on the following day through interpreters he gave
them an explanation of his coming, making clear to them that the
Tlascaltecas and other tribes had complained to him of the abuses
they had suffered at their hands, and that what he proposed was to
teach them the Gospel law and make everybody friends so that hence-
forward they should live in peace and harmony. They gave an excel-
lent reception to all this; and although at the start they conformed
obediently to all that Cortés told them, Divine Providence ordained
that when a suitable occasion presented itself, the Marquis, for the
better assurance of his project, laid hands on the King and made him
prisoner in the midst of his court and his attendants—a feat second
to none in the world’s history and on a par with the burning of his

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 153

ships, since he was surrounded by his enemies, countless in number,
the city of Mexico alone containing over 150,000 inhabitants.

427. This crisis was succeeded by another quite as overwhelming :
he received word that Pamphilo de Narvaez had arrived at the port
with a large fleet to thwart his enterprise. And so, leaving the King
a prisoner under good guard in his own home with his Spaniards, he
traveled light down to the port with a part of his forces, and by his
courage and skill checkmated Narvaez and deprived him of his
Spaniards. On his victorious return to Mexico City, he found his
cause lost, for the excesses of his men had made the Indians rise in
rebellion. And though at the moment they tried to quell the uprising
by taking the King to a window for them to see that he was alive
and for him to tell them to quiet down, which they did at once,
a rumor started up again, instigated as before by a leading Indian
named Quautimoc whom they were trying to make king; they called
Motezuma insulting names, shouting that he was a woman, and let
fly stones at him, from which he died; and as the Indians had taken
courage from their new king, the Spaniards were forced to get out
of Mexico City as best they could. They retreated and went off to
reorganize with their friends the Tlascaltecas, by whom they were
kindly treated and given every aid; and from that base they conquered
various districts and provided themselves with everything needed, a
task which took over 2 years. Then he returned with his own men
and the whole Tlascalteca tribe, to take Mexico City.

CHAPTER XVIII

Continuing the Theme of the Preceding Chapter; and How Mar-
qués Don Fernando Cortés Besieged and Took Mexico City.

428. When Marqués Don Fernando Cortés retreated with his men
from Mexico City, the savages kept pursuing him with stubborn
fury for 2 or 3 days, until they got into the territory of Tlaxcala;
there through the intercession of His Most Holy Mother, God miracu-
lously set them free. They recovered there, formed a league with
their friends and provided all things needful to fight and take the
great city of Mexico, not only by land but also on the water; they
transported timber and all other necessary materials, and on their
way they conquered and pacified all the territory up to their arrival
at the city of Texcoco on the bank of the lake in the beginning of the
year 1521. There he built and equipped 13 brigantines, which were
finished by May; the construction was under the charge of Capt.
Martin Lépez, a man competent and painstaking in that profession,
and a fine soldier personally.

154 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

429. lhe brigantines were finished and launched in the lake on
the day after Pentecost Sunday that same year of 1521. Marqués
Fernando Cortés distributed his Spaniards in the following order:
There were goo infantry, among them 118 harquebussiers and cross-
bowmen ; 86 horses; 17 small pieces of artillery, mostly of iron; 13
brigantines ; and 6,000 canoes which came along with them, and over
150,000 friendly Indians from all the tribes of the Tlascaltecas,
Tepeacas, Texcocanos, and others; some joined Cortés because they
were deadly enemies of the Mexicans, hating them for their cruelties
and arbitrary acts; such were the Tlascaltecas and Tepeacas. Others
came because they saw and appreciated the rising fortunes of the
Christians, and because they were tired of Mexican rule.

430. Marqués Fernando Cortés divided up his army into four
squadrons on land and one on the water. He kept for himself 300
Spaniards who went as his company. To Pedro de Alvarado he
gave 150 infantrymen, 18 harquebussiers and crossbowmen, 2 pieces
of artillery, 30 cavalrymen, and over 30,000 Tlascalteca Indians with
their captains and subordinates, all doughty soldiers, to take their
position in Tacuba. To Capt. Cristobal de Olid he allotted 160 in-
fantrymen, 18 harquebussiers and crossbowmen, 2 pieces of artillery,
33 cavalrymen, and 30,000 friendly Indians of the Tlaxcala tribe,
for him to establish his camp with all this troop in Coyoacan. To
Gonzalo de Sandoval he gave 150 infantrymen, 4 harquebussiers and
13 crossbowmen, 33 horse, and over 40,000 friendly Indians from
among those from Cholula, Huejotzingo, and Chalco, to go by way
of Iztapalapa. The 13 brigantines were under the command of Capt.
Martin Lopez, a man of foresight and courage; in each brigantine,
its captain with 25 soldiers, of whom 6 in each were harquebussiers
and crossbowmen, each with his piece of artillery ; one of the captains
was Pedro Ortés de Velasco.

431. Thus arranged, all these squadrons on land and water set out
on May 22 of that year to lay siege to the great city of Mexico and
take it. Great deeds were performed in this siege, which I omit for
brevity’s sake, since they are to be seen in Antonio de Herrera and
other authors; they all displayed their valor on all occasions. Addi-
tional aid came to Marqués Fernando Cortés, sent him by Don Fer-
nando, lord of Texcoco, of 50,000 Indians; 20,000 more came from
the cities and tribes of the Xochimilcos, Chalcos, and Otomites; so
he had more than 200,000 friendly Indians, and the valor of his
Spaniards. The siege lasted about 3 months, during which they
fought over 60 very fierce battles; in some the Mexicans came out
victorious, for they were grand fighters and gave no odds. And at

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 155

the end of this time they took the city, on Tuesday, August 13, day
of St. Hippolytus; there had died in its defense over 100,000 Mexi-
can Indians, including many of the nobility of that tribe; some 50
Spaniards fell, 6 horses, and a few of the friendly Indians. Now
that the city was lost because of the havoc wrought by death among
its citizens, King Quautimoc started to escape by the lake in a large
canoe, in company with Guacozin, lord of Tacuba, and others. When
this was seen by the crew of Capt. Garcia Holguin’s brigantine, they
chased him and finally this captain caught the savage King and handed
him over to Marqués Fernando Cortés. So that put an end to the
siege of the city, the empire of the Mexicans, and that of the Devil,
who had kept them blinded and deceived for so many centuries ; and
the light of the Holy Gospel came in, through which God our Lord
is revered, acknowledged, and adored by all those tribes.

432. And so in memory of such a great victory and of the capture
of that huge teeming city, on the 13th of August, day of the glorious
patron and martyr St. Hippolytus, every year they celebrate a most
solemn festival; they take out the banner under which the city was
captured; it is followed by the members of the City Council, two
Judges of the Circuit Court, then the Viceroy and all the nobility of
the city on horseback; and the oldest Alderman, who that year fills
the post of Alférez Mayor (Chief Ensign), carries it, walking on
the Viceroy’s left, and the oldest Judge on his right; and with great
solemnity they carry it to San Hipolito; on that day there is a great
celebration, and the flag bearer is allowed to remain seated.

CHAPTER XIX

Of the Great City of Mexico, and the Sumptuous Temples It
Contains ; and of Its Neighborhood.

433. The great city of Mexico, court and capital of the realms
of New Spain, is located by its great lake at 19°30’ N., 22 leagues
WNW. of the city of Puebla de Los Angeles. It is the official resi-
dence of the Viceroy, the Archbishop, and the Inquisition; it has a
Circuit Court presided over by the Viceroy, with eight Judges and
an Attorney, and another Court with four Alcaldes de Corte and an
Attorney. The Circuit Court has for its jurisdiction and district, the
whole of the Archdiocese with that of Michoacan on the W., Tlaxcala,
Oaxaca, and Yucatan—from the extreme E. of Yucatan to Michoacan
on the W., over 300 leagues ; to the W. it borders on that of Guadala-
jara, which belongs to Nueva Galicia. It extends N. and S. another
300 leagues and over, from the State of Panuco and Tampico to the

156 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

farthest bounds of the jurisdiction of Tehuantepec, which belongs
to the Diocese of Oaxaca, at which point it touches the Diocese of
Chiapas and the Circuit Court of Santiago de Guatemala.

434. The city is one of the largest and finest in the world; it has
an excellent climate, neither cold nor hot, with marvelous skies and
healthful air; since it is built by the lake, it is very salubrious. For
the reasons given, which apply also to the district, it covers the area
of a very large city. It will be over 2 leagues in circuit; all the build-
ings are of excellent construction, composed of a very fine reddish
stone, unique in the world; there are very rich quarries of it right
by the lake; it is very easy to work and so light that a large slab or
block of it will float on the water without sinking, as I saw with my
own eyes when I was in that city in the year 1612.

435. The streets are very straight, wide, and unencumbered; taken
with the excellent architecture, they make a fine appearance. The
city is well supplied with abundance of cheap and delicious food.
Along the streets there are broad deep channels of water from the
lake, with bridges to cross over from one side to the other. For the
provisioning of the city there come in from all the surrounding coun-
try every day over the lake more than 1,000 boats loaded with sup-
plies of bread, meat, fish, game, wood, and grass, which they call
zacate, and what else is needed; by land every day, over 3,000 mules
loaded with wheat, corn, sugar, and other commodities for the stores ;
thus it becomes one of the most abundantly and luxuriously supplied
cities in the world.

436. The city will contain over 15,000 Spanish residents and over
80,000 Indians who reside in the city and in the suburb or city of San-
tiago de Tlaltelolco and in the other environs or garden tracts (chinam-
pas) ; furthermore there are more than 50,000 Negroes and mulattoes,
slaves of the Spaniards or free; so the city’s area is widespread and
extensive. Business is active, both because the land is rich and the
city is the capital of those realms, and also in consequence of the
close connections it has with Spain, Peru, the Philippines, and with
the Provinces of Guatemala and its territory, Yucatan and Tabasco,
and all the Kingdom of New Galicia and Vizcaya. They usually have
four market days there, with great quantities of merchandise, silk,
cloth, and everything to be found in the world’s best-supplied mar-
kets; in San Juan, these are Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday ; in San-
tiago, every day; in Santa Maria la Redonda, in the main square; in
Santa Maria de la Modorra and in San Hipdlito, Wednesday and
Thursday ; and in Tomatlan, which is out toward the moat, there is
a food market every day.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA T57.

437. Besides these there are many large shops of merchandise, and
Spanish and Indian artisans of every craft, who practice their pro-
fessions with skill; accordingly, with this abundance of everything,
there is nothing lacking in this famous city. It has a very fine Cathe-
dral, built by the most Christian Marqués del Valle Don Fernando
Cortés right after he conquered that kingdom and took the city; as
bases of the pillars, he used some heathen stone idols. When he had
come back to Spain, he fell ill in Seville; they carried him up to
Castilleja de la Cuesta, half a league away, to the villa of the most
excellent Count of Olivares, to recuperate; but he died there—that
Alexander of the New World—on December 2, 1547, at the age of
63. The first time he returned to Spain and was lying ill at Toledo,
he was visited by the Emperor Charles V, as it told by Gabriel Laso
de la Vega in his ““Elogios de Varones Ilustres,” folio 51. He left his
name immortalized by having won that country itself, and its souls
for Heaven, whither he went to rest for his reward and recompense
for the great services he rendered to both Majesties, divine and
human.

438. Since Mexico City has grown so large and wealthy, they have
built another splendid Cathedral ; and although it is not yet finished,
it can vie in size and richness with the best of all Christendom. It
has other parish churches such as those of Santa Catalina Martyr,
Vera Cruz, San Anton, and other churches in which the Holy Sacra-
ments are administered to the faithful.

CHAPTER XX

Of the Splendid Convents of Friars To Be Found in the City of
Mexico.

439. There are in Mexico City splendid and famous convents of
friars, with sumptuous temples, richly and perfectly appointed, with
large incomes and charitable contributions which support them. All
of them maintain schools of Arts and Theology ; the chief one, Santo
Domingo, is one of the best and richest to be found in the Indies,
and I doubt whether there be its equal in Spain. It has over 200
friars, many of whom are highly educated and great preachers. In
this splendid convent they teach Arts and Theology; the church has
become a glowing coal of gold, with great majesty of chapels along
its sides. Although the foundations have sunk more than 5 feet below
ground level, the convent is an excellent one, with large cloisters and
dormitories, well designed and carried out.

158 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

440, There is another convent or college of this Dominican Order,
called San Reymundo, next the schools on the Plazuela del Volador.
It is named Santo Domingo de Portaceli, and was founded by Dofia
Isabel de Lujan, elder daughter of Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,
who was Governor of Nueva Galicia before the Circuit Court was
established there, and also by Dofia Beatriz de Estrada; they started
it in the houses belonging to their parents, which were among the
best in the city. This lady was married to Don Bernardino Pacheco
de Cérdoba y Bocanegra, oldest son of the house of Villamayor ;
and having busied herself in the establishment of this college and
other pious works, she ended her days in holiness, and her works do
follow her, as St. John says in chapter XIV of his Apocalypse.

441. Of the Seraphic Order of St. Francis there are six convents,
the largest with about 200 (ex 300) friars and a school of Arts and
Theology ; the church is one of the largest and finest in all the Indies,
with many handsome chapels and extensive cloisters and dormitories,
all beautifully done, with remarkable paintings; the Seraphic Patri-
arch having founded his order in poverty, it has been enriched with
virtue, membership, and buildings. The convent of St. Joseph is con-
nected with the large one; there is a local superior there and friars
with pastoral circuits and Indians under instruction, in which they
administer the Holy Sacraments and teach them the facts of our
Holy Faith and virtue.

442, The convent of Santa Maria la Redonda, of the same Fran-
ciscan Order, is very remarkable and beautifully finished. It con-
tains over 80 friars with more than 20,000 Indians to visit and cate-
chize, administering the Holy Sacraments to them and instructing
them in our Holy Faith. The convent of Santiago de Tlaltelolco, of
the same Seraphic Order, has over go friars, with schools of Arts
and Theology; its church and finely finished convent rank among
the best in the city ; it has over 30,000 Indians for pastoral visits and
instruction, for them to teach and provide with the Holy Sacraments.
Besides these there are two very strict convents of the Recollect
Friars; that of San Diego has over 4o friars; the other is that of
San Cosma; in both they profess and hold to the letter of their rule.
The convent of San Diego was founded by Don Mateo de Navarra
y Mauleon, brother of the Marqués de Cortés and his wife Dota
Isabel Colon de la Cueva, daughter of the Marshal of Castile, lord
of the towns of Sira (Sina?) and Borobia, where they preserve his
tomb.

443. Of the Order of the Glorious Doctor and Patriarch St. Augus-
tine there are four convents; the chief one contains over 150 friars;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 159

they teach Arts and Theology; the church is one of the largest and
best designed and carried out, to be seen in Mexico; it is all one
cluster of gold, with famous cloisters and dormitories and a great
refectory. This splendid convent receives every year from its in-
come and church contributions, not counting other alms, over 100,000
pesos. The College of San Pablo of the same Augustinian Order
has about too friars; there they teach Arts and Theology with great
diligence and exactitude, and education flourishes; from this distin-
guished order have risen such remarkable men as Master Fray Juan
Zapata, Bishop of Guatemala, Master Fray Gabriel de Ribera, a son
of that splendid convent, and many others whom I do not mention
because their virtue and learning are well known in that kingdom and
they have accomplished much there. The convent of San Sebastian
will have some 12 friars busied with pastoral visits and catechizing
the Indians, and in administering the Holy Sacraments; these be-
longed to the friars of the Barefoot Carmelite Order. The Augus-
tinians have another convent with some 8 friars, called Santa Cruz.

444, Of the Carmelite Order there were two very strict convents
of Barefoot Friars. That of San Sebastian has over 80 friars, who
keep with perfect strictness the original rule of our glorious Father
St. Albert. Here there have been, and are, many acknowledged
saints, and for their noble example and virtue they are reverenced
and respected by the whole city. They have an excellent church with
cloisters and very strict dormitories, and a garden for their recrea-
tion. There was another college, very strict, of our glorious martyr
and prophet San Angel; this was ordered to be abandoned by an
inspector who came from Spain, quite unreasonably, for he deprived
many in the city of its consolation ; however, in its place another very
strict establishment was built in Coyoacan, near the city.

445. Besides these there is another 3 leagues from the city, which
they call El Desierto (The Wilderness) ; it is one of the first in the
world in size, strictness, and sanctity. In addition to the convent,
which Melchior de Cuellar erected at his own expense, it has a church
and dormitories which are of very remarkable construction ; they are
built in a spot which seems like Paradise, for Heaven so disposed
that place. It has pilgrimage shrines at intervals about a quarter
league apart, where the friars live like the hermits of the early church ;
it is another Mount Carmel and Holy Land in that Land of Promise
in the New World, and in the opinion of all the judicious who have
seen it, considering its location, its hilly site, its springs, the arrange-
ment of the convent and the hermitages, it ranks among the first in
the world.

160 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

446. This Wilderness and new Mount Carmel lies 1 league from
the village of Santa Fé, where the sainted Gregorio Lopez, a native
of Madrid, paid most severe penance in the period about 1596; by
the example of his sanctity he left many disciples of his virtue and
teaching in that kingdom, such as D. Fernando de Cordoba y Boca-
negra, elder brother of the Marqués de Villamayor, Commander of
Nueva Galicia and Knight of the Order of Santiago; following the
saint as his model he left his estates on earth for those in Heaven;
and after having paid most severe penance and lived in most holy
fashion, he left this transitory life to enjoy the rewards of the other.
He was likewise imitated by Padre Francisco de Loza, a virtuous
and sainted priest, and many others. Such flowers cultivated in the
New World and its early church by Divine Providence have been of
great import to its new and tender Christians.

447. There is in this splendid city a famous convent of Our Lady
of Mercy with over 100 friars; here they teach Arts and Theology
and have remarkable men. The church and convent rank high in the
city and have a large attendance of the faithful. This convent was
an offshoot of the Province of Guatemala; in the year 1621 that
province was divided in half, and it became head of the new Province
of Mexico which was then created.

CHAPTER XXI

Continuing the Preceding Subject, of the Convents and Nunneries
To Be Found in Mexico City, and of the Hospitals.

448. Of the Order of the Company of Jesus there are four houses ;
the chief house, in the size of its church and dormitories and in its
wealth, is one of the largest and finest in all the Indies, and has
men remarkable for their virtue and education, in which this sainted
order greatly excels. There is another fine college of the same order,
in which they give lectures and instruction both in Latin and in the
Mexican language, and in Arts and Theology. San Ildefonso is a
Royal College of the same order; it is a kind of boarding school, in
which there are three classes of students. The first is of students in
Theology, limited to 12, all duly qualified, of good family, and poor ;
for their support His Majesty as patron has assigned an income.
Their gowns are dark gray with green sashes having at their tips or
points a sort of circular badge or crown.

449. There are in this same college other students, with purple
sashes, who follow courses in Arts and Theology; their parents bear
the expense of their instruction and education. The third class of

a CN am came el li aiama OI i eri

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 101

students is the students of Latin, who wear blue sashes to distinguish
them from the others; their parents pay for their board and lodging
with the Fathers’of the Company, under whose direction they remain.
For the good administration of the college and for their advance-
ment in virtue and learning, they have a Rector and Minister of the
same Company of Jesus. Besides the above there is another college,
of San Gregorio, in which (and in the others) virtue and learning
are practiced and flourish.

450. There is a small convent of the Order of the Glorious Patri-
arch St. Benedict (San Benito), named Monserrate, with an Abbot
and some friars. This has the reputation of great piety and rever-
ence in that splendid city and is much frequented by the faithful.

451. There are in this royal city 16 very strict nunneries, of great
virtue and sanctity; among them there are many handmaids of God
who lead holy lives. The nunnery of Santa Inés ranks among the
strictest and finest of all Christendom. This was founded by Diego
Caballero with 33 nuns, in pious imitation of the number of years
our Lord passed on earth; there may be neither more nor less, ex-
cept that when one dies, another enters in her place, to keep the
number full. They enter without dowry, for this noble knight, to
whom God had given much wealth, and who had no heirs, estab-
lished this nunnery with a total of 33 nuns and for their support he
left an annual income of 33,000 pesos, together with 2,000 pesos of
income for the patron or patroness of his family. They have excel-
lent music in this nunnery.

452. Mexico contains the nunneries of La Concepcioén, San Lo-
renzo, Santa Catalina de Sena, La Encarnacion, Santa Clara, Santa
Teresa, Jesus Maria, Regina Celi, San Jeronimo; Santa Monica,
with an annex where they bring up children under instruction; Santa
Isabel, of Franciscan barefoot nuns; Santa Maria de Gracia, which
consists of two separate convents with one church and a boarding
school for girls already novitiates ; the nunnery of Las Recogidas is
very wealthy ; San Juan de Letran is a boarding school in which they
bring up orphan children.

453. In this great city there are nine famous hospitals, in which
they care for the indigent sick of various nationalities, and with dif-
ferent diseases. These are: The general hospital for the Indians,
called the Royal Hospital, whose patron is His Majesty. This re-
ceives large revenues and charitable contributions; and the sainted
Count of Monterrey when Viceroy of that kingdom gave it his favor
and assistance by establishing a theatrical playhouse (corral de

12

162 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

comedias) all the income from which he turned over to it for the
care, maintenance, and comfort of the poor among the Indians.

454, The Hospital of Los Desamparados (The Destitute) is run
by the friars and brethren of the blessed San Juan de Dids; it is
rich and sumptuous. It has a revolving dumb-waiter into which
foundlings are dropped or put—they commonly call them children
of the church door—and these friars care for these orphaned children
and find women to nurse them and pay them out of the hospital’s
revenues and the large daily charitable contributions which they get
from the city’s various wards every day.

455. The Hospital of La Concepcion was founded by Don Fer-
nando Cortés, Marqués del Valle (and its patrons are the marquises
his descendants), for the care of the indigent sick and for the burial
both of them and of his descengants. He left directions that there
should be nuns on the one side and (monks?) on the other, to care
for the poor, for which purpose he left an annual income of 16,000
pesos. The church is very fine and gives promise of being still more
so. He left his successors some 20,000 pesos income to act as patrons,
with the provision that they should take no part in the administration
of the income for the hospital and the poor; for that, he named
trustees (administradores) and chaplains of the poor, giving them
the major part of the income from good farms in Mexico; included
in this is the income derived from the theatrical playhouse situated
back of the convent of San Augustin.

456. The Hospital and Insane Asylum of San Hipolito is one of
the finest and wealthiest in the Indies. Every year when the fleets
coming from Spain arrive at Vera Cruz, they send down 200 mules
loaded with biscuit, delicacies, and sweets, which they keep leaving
on the route at the posting houses for the use and benefit of the
poor invalids and of all those at the harbor and particularly the
cachupines, as they call recent arrivals from Spain in that kingdom;
in Peru and the Spanish Main they call them chapetones. They put
them on muleback and transport them for the love of God; they pro-
vide them with good care and with delicacies; as for those in good
health they arrange for them to work and be of service. They, pro-
vide such great relief that without it many poor people would perish
and die, and so it is a most blessed institution and project. The
brethren who conduct it wear a dark gray habit like those of the
General Hospital of this capital. They are called Brethren of
Huaxtepec because it was first established there, built by Juan Alvarez,
grand servant of God, its founder, a native of Ayamonte.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 163

457. The Hospital of the Love of God (Amor de Dids) called the
tumor (syphilis) hospital, is designed for the treatment of the poor
afflicted with this disease. It is splendid and wealthy, and has fine
rooms and infirmaries, where the sick are treated with great charity
and solicitude. The Hospital of the Holy Ghost (Espiritu Santo)
is likewise excellent, as is also that of Jestis Maria de Indios, where
they treat sick Indians. The Hospital of San Lazaro is for incurable
cases ; they take very charitable care of them. There is in this hospi-
tal a remarkable relic—a very holy likeness of Christ our Savior, in
the form of an Ecce Homo seated on a rock; it is held in the great-
est veneration, being of great sanctity and the worker of remarkable
miracles. In that city and kingdom it is traditionally reputed to have
been wrought through the ministry of angels. The Hospital of La
Misericordia is famous among the rest; and there are furthermore
others of lesser reputation which I omit, not having full details about
them and thus being unable to set down their strong points.

CHAPTER XXII

Of the Tribunal of the Holy Inquisition, the University and Other
Colleges and Splendid Establishments of This City of Mexico; the
Exchequer (Tribunal de Cuentas), the Mint, and Other Matters.

458. This splendid city houses the Tribunal of the Inquisition, with
its Inquisitors, Attorney, Secretaries, and the other functionaries of
this holy tribunal. It was founded in the year 1570 in the reign of
the most farsighted monarch Philip I]; the Inquisitor General was
Cardinal Don Diego de Espinosa, distinguished for his learning and
virtue, former Bishop of Sigttenza, and member of the Supreme
Council of the Indies. That same year another Tribunal of the Holy
Inquisition was established in the city of Lima for the Kingdoms of
Peru. The decrees of the Inquisitors and other officials proceed from

_ the Inquisitor General residing in this court city of Madrid, and these
_ warrants are transmitted by the Supreme Council of the Indies, which
| has complete authority over them.

459. It has a splendid university, which can vie with the best in
| the world, with a large attendance of doctors, masters, and students ;
| courses are given in all the sciences with great brilliancy and with
benefit to the students, who are sons of that kingdom, where Heaven
| seems to promote intellectual keenness and subtlety, but with few
| rewards, since they are so remote from the eyes of His Majesty, and
for that reason many drop out at just the best moment. In this uni-
versity they confer all degrees in every branch of learning; it pos-

164 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

sesses all the privileges and exemptions of the University of Sala-
manca, for it is like it in educational program and in size.

460. Near the University and its schools there is another very
important college called Santos, which has 12 collegians, most of
them priests and chosen by competitive examination ; they wear dark
gray woolen gowns with rather short scarlet sashes. They choose
one of their own number to be Rector ; to enter, they have to be poor,
virtuous, and of good family; they have an income sufficient for
their maintenance. Besides these there are other colleges and semi-
naries, which illumine the greatness of this imperial city.

461. They have a Mint for the smelting and coining of metal
money, with all the necessary officials and employees. There they
coin the money for the whole kingdom and much that goes to the
Philippines and to all the Windward Islands, and much that is brought
over to Spain; these are the pieces of eight well known in Spain as
Mexican dollars, and in all Europe. They mint coins worth 4 and
2 reals, and a few half reals, the smallest coin minted and circulat-
ing there ; but for things of small value they make use of cacao beans,
which serve as the regular money in that kingdom, and are quite
necessary ; it would be a very useful thing to introduce this in Spain
in place of the vellon coppers. This would obviate the inconveniences
and losses arising from the malice and covetousness of foreigners,
who use these coins to withdraw silver from Spain, while cacao beans
cannot be counterfeited and are to be found in no other kingdoms
than those of His Majesty. In this way the inhabitants of the Indies
and of Spain would be relieved and benefited.

462. His Majesty appoints a Mayor (Corregidor) in this famous
city, in consultation with his Royal Council of the Indies. The city
has an Exchequer, with three Paymasters (Contadores) and two Audi-
tors (Ordenadores de Cuentas). Besides these there are three Royal
Officials, Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor and Supervisor of the
Royal Patrimony. There is likewise a Tribunal of the Holy Crusade,
under the supervision of its Commissioner General, who resides in this
capital city; and it would be a very valuable and suitable thing for
the bull to be published every year, as has been urged by Ensign
(Alférez) Méndez de Ocampo, native of Madrid, a man of great
experience in this specialty, both through having been for many years
in charge of the documents of the Chamber of New Spain and of
Peru, and through having traveled about in those kingdoms and
provinces; he has been petitioning the Crusade Council for this for
many years, to have them printed there or to announce them in ad-
vance year by year. That would be very conducive to the service of

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 165

God and His Majesty. ‘There is a City Council with its Corregidor,
Aldermen (Regidores) and other officials, who form a very important
and distinguished governing body. There are two posts of Govern-
ment Secretary, each of which was put up for sale for His Majesty’s
benefit, at 80,000 pesos.

463. Besides all the above, the city has abundance of water, com-
ing from Santa Fé 2 leagues off, in a flume (cafiada) on famous
arches like the aqueduct of Carmona near Seville; these cost over
300,000 pesos to construct. So all the city’s fountains are well sup-
plied with water; it is also well provisioned with bread, corn, meat,
fish, and much fruit, both Spanish and native, and such luxuries as
sugar, preserves, etc., as will be described in the following chapters.
On the lake they have bathhouses with excellent hot-water baths,
very healthful and beneficial to the invalids who bathe in them.

The city has a brilliant assemblage of titled gentry, knights of the
military orders, nobles, and important people.

CHAPTER XXIII

Of the District of the Archdiocese of Mexico, Its Provinces and
Cities, and Other Remarkable Features Which It Contains.

464. The Archdiocese of Mexico lies between Tlaxcala on the
ESE. and Michoacan on the W.; N. and S. it is over 140 leagues
long, from the Provinces of Panuco and Tampico on the Atlantic
coast, to the harbor of Acapulco on the Pacific; through this area it
runs from 20 to 60 leagues wide in the district of this Archdiocese ;
the Viceroy appoints in its cities and provinces to 22 Alcaldias
Mayores, for its good administration and the dispensing of justice.
These are: Warden and Alcalde Mayor of the port of Acapulco;
in Chalco and Tlalmanalco; in Sacualpa, which is a mining com-
munity, and in the mines of Sultepec; in those of Zimapan; in the
mines of Escanela; in Hueypoxtla; in Metztitlan; in Malinalco; in
Otucpa; in the mines of Pachuca; in Panuco; in Querétaro; in the
mines of Taxco; in the city of Texcoco; in Tepoztlan, and Cuauhti-
tlan; in the mines of Tetela; in those of Temascaltepec; in Tula; in
the city of Santiago de los Valles; in Jilotepec ; in Ixmiquilpan.

465. Besides the posts of Alcalde Mayor described above, the Vice-
roy fills, in the district of this Archdiocese, 24 Corregimientos for
their good administration and the dispensing of justice; these are:
Atengonisquiaguala, Atitalaquia, Atlatlahuca del Valle, Chiconautla,
Zumpango and Zitlaltepec, Zempoala, Coatepeque, Estapalapa, Guachi-
nango, Huayacocotlan, Jojutla, Otumba, San Juan Titoguacan, Toto-
lapa, Tarasquillo, Tulancingo, Tetela del Volcan, Tepeapulco, Teu-

166 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tenango, the city of Xochimilco, Xuchiquautla, Yxcateopa, Yguala,
Yahualica. And in this Archdiocese the Marqués del Valle appoints
one Alcalde Mayor in the town of Cuernavaca, and two Corregi-
dores—one in Coyoacan, the other in the town of Toluca.

466. The Archdiocese includes round about the lake many villages
and cities of mixed Indian and Spanish population ; it would be im-
possible to describe them all in detail. The most important are the
city of Xochimilco, which means Flower City ; Chalco, which means
People of the Mouths; Texcoco, in which Fernando Cortés made
his preparations, and which means Crooked People; and up by the
volcano and the sierra are the village of Amecameca and others. This
volcano and sierra separate the Archdiocese of Mexico from the Dio-
cese of Puebla de Los Angeles ; the towns to the N. of the sierra and
volcano belong to Tlaxcala, and those on the S. and W., to Mexico.
The sierra has much forest on its slopes—cypresses which make it
look like Mount Zion, pines, oaks, and other trees—and in many of
the villages they raise and prepare the finest of cochineal. In this dis-
trict they grow much wheat, corn, and other cereals, for the fields and
meadows are fertile; they have abundance of broad pastures, on
which graze quantities of cattle, sheep, and hogs, so that the country
is well supplied.

467. Going southward, one comes to the village of Tepexco on the
slope of a range where they get excellent alum. After this range it
becomes level, down to Chiautla in the hot country, where they raise
quantities of corn and cotton, and on the mountains they gather copal
resin; the principal yield is in November, when they gash the trees
for it to run. Next comes the village of Ocotlan, whose chief income
is derived from salt, which they make from a brine spring. From
here along a southerly course one comes upon the villages of Con-
tecomapa and Gualtepeque, where they speak the Mixteca language ;
here there is a sierra of very fine green jasper verging on porphyry.
At this point it touches the Diocese of Oaxaca; leaving some villages
at one side, one reaches Otuculula, where there is gold ore, and
farther on, Tuculula, near the Pacific, where it borders on the Diocese
of Oaxaca.

CHAPTER XXIV

Continuing the Preceding Subject, of the District of the Arch-
diocese of Mexico, and in Particular, the Route to the Province of
Huaxteca and to Panuco.

468. From Mexico City to the Province of Huaxteca, one goes
5 leagues to the village of San Cristobal de Acatepec, where there is

;
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Se ee a ee es

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 167

a good Franciscan convent. Eight leagues farther, to the right from
Acatepec and NE. of Mexico, is the village of Otumba, where there
are Royal Apartments, in which the Viceroys stop before entering
Mexico City, and a famous Franciscan convent and church. Farther
along the same course lies Tulancingo, 22 leagues from Mexico, at
the foot of the Sierra de Huayacocotlan, where there is a splendid
Franciscan convent and church. Ten leagues from Tulancingo is the
Alcaldia Mayor of Huayacocotlan, leaving on the left the Alcaldia
Mayor of the Sierra de Metztitlan, with a famous Augustinian con-
vent, in which they teach Arts and Theology. In the Sierra of Metz-
titlan or Huayacocotlan there are mines of excellent alum.

469. The town of Los Valles in the Province of Huaxteca on the
road to Panuco some 50 leagues from Mexico City, is built in a
pleasant valley on the banks of a river which irrigates and enriches
its fields and meadows. It will contain 200 Spanish residents. There
is a parish church here and a Franciscan convent. It has a spring-
like climate, and is the residence of the Corregidor appointed by the
Viceroy for its good administration and that of the province. It has
large mule ranches in its district, which form the chief business of
that region, and most of their deer yield excellent bezoar stones. On
the slopes of Huaxteca and the Sierra of Metztitlan lies the Cor-
regimiento of Yahualica.

470. Twenty-five leagues beyond the town of Los Valles, and 75
from Mexico, is the Province and State of Panuco, where they
founded the city of San Estéban of the N. port of Mexico. At the
present time it contains few Spaniards, the majority of its inhabitants
having left to live in the city and port of Tampico, which is built at
the water’s edge, for the sea beats against its houses. It will contain
200 Spanish residents; their chief occupation is the shrimp fishery ;
sometimes great schools come in, which the fishermen can tell by
the color of the water; and when the schools arrive, be it Maundy
Thursday or Easter, they go out fishing, even though they miss hear-
ing Mass on those days, for that is generally the season when they
come. These fisheries in general supply for the whole year the city
of Mexico, and other cities, towns, and provinces, and the man who
possesses one of those shrimp grounds is rich.

471, Tampico is 3 leagues from Panuco; at the midway point of
13 leagues there is a Spanish garrison, called Tamés, for defense
against the warlike Indians called Salineros, who live on the other
side of the Rio de Panuco; but at the present time they are quiet,
because they give them some corn and coarse woolen cloth for their

168 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

clothing, so that they shall not disturb and molest people passing
from one side to the other.

472. In the city of Tampico there is a parish church and a Fran-
ciscan convent. The climate is very hot and damp. In that district
and that of Panuco there are extensive cattle and mule ranches, most
of which lie in the hostile Indian territory, but with what they give
these Indians, they are not molested by them. There are innumerable
deer in these parts; the Indians shoot them with arrows; from some
they get excellent bezoar stones. All this country is very level and
pleasant, so that it seems a bit of Paradise. The Rio de Panuco is a
large river; ships and frigates can enter it; they come up from Vera
Cruz with wine and other commodities; there are quantities of alli-
gators in it. This district borders on the ESE. on the Province and
port of Tamiahua of the Diocese of Puebla, and on the N. with
extensive provinces of heathen savages.

CHAPTER XXV

Continuing the Description of the Archdiocese of Mexico.

473. On leaving Mexico City in a northeasterly direction, near
Otumba is the village of Tepeapulco, where they raise quantities of
corn and wheat ; there are broad pastures and ranches there. Farther
on is the Province of Guachinango, with silver mines; the streams
run into the Atlantic. Next comes the Province of Papantla and
Tuxpan, whose river flows into the Atlantic opposite the Isla de
Lobos (Wolf Island) ; but that country and coast are unhealthy,
being hot and damp.

474, Returning to Mexico, the city of Texcoco lies 7 leagues E.
of it, on the bank of the lake; here they produce quantities of cloth,
serge, and coarse woolens. From Texcoco to Gueytulpa, Zacatepec
and other villages, and returning ENE. from there, one passes moun-
tain ranges separating the Rio de Tuxpan from the Rio de San Pedro
y San Pablo; here the Archdiocese touches the Diocese of Puebla,
at the village of Agotepeque, near the Vera Cruz highway; this
village belongs to the Diocese of Puebla.

475, Returning to Mexico, to the S. one finds the villages of Cuer-
navaca, Las Amilpas, Huaxtepec, Huautla, and Acapixtla, belonging
to the Marqués del Valle, 10 leagues from Mexico, where there are
fine valleys with a hot climate. Here there are many mills for [grind-
ing] sugarcane, from which they make great quantities of excellent
[white] sugar. They have many kinds of delicious fruit, both native

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 169

and Spanish, corn, cotton, sweet potatoes, jicamas, flowers and espe-
cially roses, which bloom the whole year through, thanks to the favor-
able climate, the fertility of the soil, and the abundance of water,
with which they irrigate their meadows and fields.

476. The Province of Tlapa contains mountain ranges, and val-
leys abounding in wheat, corn, and other cereals, and gold ore.
Farther on is the Province of Cuexco, with a hot climate and a large
native population; here they raise quantities of wheat, corn, beans,
and other cereals. In this province lie the rich silver mines of Zum-
pango; from here one goes to the port of Acapulco on the Pacific,
which lies in 17°30’. This is where the ships coming to Mexico from
the Philippines and Peru, make port. The harbor is good, deep, and
safe, in a large cove formed by the sea. There is a Spanish town
there with as many as 70 residents, with a garrison and a Warden
appointed by His Majesty in consultation with his Royal Council of
the Indies. The climate is hot and deleterious, though healthy for
Negroes and mulattoes; for that reason and because it is a wealthy
port, many of them live there.

477. From Mexico to Tacubaya and Xalataco is the Acapulco
highway ; to the right of it on the SW. is the Province of Taxco,
where there are many silver-mining towns, viz, Taxco, Sacualpa,
Sultepec, Temascaltepec and others, all Spanish settlements; here
they have taken out great wealth of silver. In the mining town of
Sacualpa the Mercedarian Order possesses a rich mine, from which
they have extracted great wealth, with which they constructed their
large and sumptuous convent in Mexico City.

478. Leaving Mexico by Tacubaya, another road branches off to
the W. by Santa Fé; 7 leagues on is the Matalzingo Valley, with
the famous town of Toluca belonging to the Marqués del Valle; it
will contain over 200 Spanish residents, with a fine Franciscan con-
vent. The town is a busy trading center; they make the best ham
and bacon there in all New Spain, and great quantities of soap. [The
town and the whole valley] have a cold climate; it is full of cattle
ranches and farms; this whole country is prolific and healthy. To
the SW. of this valley lie the above-mentioned mines of Temas-
caltepec, and the others covering a district of 18 leagues to the FE.

479. From the Toluca Valley one proceeds to Istlavaca or Mequete-
pec, a region rich in numerous farms of wheat, corn, and other
cereals ; here His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council
of the Indies, appoints an Alcalde Mayor. Returning to Mexico City
and starting W., at 4 leagues one reaches Cuauhtitlan; Tepeji is 8
leagues [from there], and at 30 leagues from Mexico is the town

I70 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

(villa) of Querétaro, a Spanish settlement with 500 residents, plus
many Indians. It is a very delightful village (pueblo), with a mar-
velous climate and abundance of supplies and delicacies; there are
large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches, vineyards and all kinds of fruit,
native and from Spain. The Viceroy appoints an Alcalde Mayor for
this city, for its good administration and the dispensing of justice.
Besides the parish church there is a famous Franciscan convent and
another, San Diego, of the Barefoot Friars, and a nunnery of Bare-
foot Nuns of the Carmelite Order ; this was founded by the Cacique
Don Diego, an Indian of high intelligence and Christian character,
as is evidenced by such an establishment. In addition to founding
it and acting as its patron, he endowed it with an income sufficient
to maintain all the nuns; thus God our Lord is well served, and the
good Indian left an example in this work for others to imitate. At
the town limit, the Archdiocese touches the Diocese of Michoacan.

480, In the towns of Tacuba and Tlanepantla, His Majesty ap-
points an Alcalde Mayor, in consultation with his Royal Council of
the Indies. From Tacuba WNW. on the way to Jiquipilco, Chiapa
lies to one side, and Tepeaquilla, Atzcapotzalco, Tenayuca, and at 4
leagues, Cuauhtitlan and Tepeji, where there are cattle ranches and
wheat farms. Farther on lie Jolotitlan and Jilotepec, where it borders
on villages of the Province of Michoacan. Beyond Jilotepec lies Tula,
where there are large stock and cattle ranches, and farms to the N.
All this country has a marvelous springlike climate. Starting N. from
Mexico City, one comes on the villages of Tepeaquilla, and farther
on, Acatapec, Atotobilco; Tulancingo, and then the Province and
Sierra of Metztitlan, also called Huayacocotlan, as has been remarked.

CHAPTER XXVI

Of Other Features of the Archdiocese of Mexico, and of the Fruit
Growing There.

481. In the provinces of this district of the Archdiocese of Mexico
described in the preceding chapters, there are over 250 Indian villages,
with many cities among them; 100 [of them] are county seats
(cabezas de partido). In these, and on over 6,000 establishments—
corn and wheat farms, sugar plantations, cattle, sheep, and hog
ranches—there are over 500,000 Indians paying tribute, and more
than 150 convents of the Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustinian
orders, and many curacies under priests, not to speak of the [many]
Spanish towns in the district of the Archdiocese, and especially all
the silver-mining towns, which are Spanish settlements.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 171

482. The Viceroy of New Spain appoints not only to the posts of
Alcalde Mayor and Corregidor, but also 18 judges for the allotment
of Indians (jueces repartidores): One in Mexico City, another in
Tacubaya, in Tacuba, Tepoztlan, Chalco; in the mining towns of
Pachuca, Taxco, Sultepec, Sacualpa, Temascaltepec, Guanajuato, and
Stchil; in the district of the Diocese of Oaxaca for the mines of
Chichicapa and Tlalpujahua ; in the district of the Diocese of Puebla,
San Pablo; His Majesty appoints the one for Atlixco. These are
all offices with important perquisites. Furthermore he appoints inspec-
tors (juezes) of highways, of sugar mills for Las Amilpas and those
in Vera Cruz; and he appoints other inspectors for the woolen mills
and cochineal works.

483. The city of Mexico is luxuriously provided with fruit, both
of Spanish and native varieties: they all yield abundantly. There
are excellent olive groves from which they gather quantities of eating
olives. Grapes are brought in from Querétaro, and there are a few
vines in the city, as well as peaches large and small, pippins, quinces,
pomegranates, oranges, limes, grapefruit, citrons, and lemons; the
gardens produce in abundance all varieties of Spanish garden stuff
and vegetables; the lake provides delicious fish of different sorts,
and the streams, bobos, which is an excellent fish, and others.

484. There are many kinds of native fruit, such as bananas and
plantains, red sapotes, sapodillas, white sapotes, aguacates (alligator
pears), all of which are described in their proper place, both the
nature of the fruit, and the tree which produces [and bears] it. The
black sapote resembles a large orange; it has a thin green skin; the
flesh is like black salve; it is an excellent and delicious fruit, with
seeds in it like carob beans; the tree is sturdy and tall, cup-shaped
like a walnut tree, and [handsome and] attractive in appearance.
There is another which they call capuli; tree, leaf, and fruit are quite
like the Spanish mazard cherry. There is a kind of wild walnut,
with very small nuts like filberts, but somewhat larger and very
hard-shelled ; they taste like ours, but somewhat sweeter. They have
custard-apples and so many other kinds of fruit that it is impossible
to enumerate them.

485. They have many kinds of root crops, such as sweet potatoes,
which in that kingdom they call camotes ; they are large and of many
colors—white, purple, yellow, blue, and others. They have the same
flavor as those which are grown in Malaga. They have arracachas,
jicamas, and others which I do not mention because they will be
described in another chapter.

486. In Mexico City they have pulque inspectors; pulque is the
wine the Indians drank, made from the maguey, and they get drunk

172 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

on it and cause great disorder, thanks to the still greater cupidity of
those who sell it; these inspectors are to repress and penalize them,
like weight inspectors ; but it is not sufficient, the city being so large ;
although they punish and penalize them, they continue risking the
sale, for the great profit they make out of it.

487. They have book-printing establishments in this splendid city.
In view of the risk of floods from their great lake, they have con-
structed an outlet channel by piercing the mountains so that the
excess water can run off. In the center of it they found horns of a
unicorn or rhinoceros (habada) of times long past, which make one
think they must have been there since the days of the Flood. Although
the outlet has cost the city and the kingdom many thousands of
ducats, it is not finished, there is so much to be done. It is being
built in the direction of Huehuetocal. Right in the center of the
earth or rather the bottom of the drain being made for the outlet,
they have likewise found elephants’ tusks and other strange things.

CHAPTER XXVII

Of the District of the Diocese of Michoacan.

488. The city of Michoacan or Patzcuaro, from which the whole
diocese takes its name, lies 50 leagues W. of Mexico City, in 19° N.
The Cathedral of this diocese is in the city of Valladolid, also named
Guayangareo. This was founded by the Militia Captain Cristobal
de Olid, with a commission [derived] from Marqués Don Fernando
Cortés to explore and conquer those provinces, in the year 1522,
directly following that in which he took Mexico City. Valladolid
is built in a pleasant fertile valley on the banks of a river; it has
a marvelous springlike climate, with bright skies and bracing air:
in the Indian tongue it is called Guayangareo; it will contain 400
Spanish residents and many Indians. The Cathedral was originally
established at Zinzontla, where the kings of that kingdom held court ;
then the first Bishop, Vasco de Quiroga, moved it from there in the
year 1544 to where it now is; the Bishop and Prebendaries are in
residence there for its services [with zeal in the service of God].

489. There are in this city [excellent] Franciscan, Augustinian,
and Barefoot Carmelite convents, three nunneries, and other churches,
shrines, and excellent hospitals; in fact, they have them in all the
Indian villages of the provinces of this diocese, maintained by all
the communities with close attention to the matter of beds, prac-
titioners, and luxuries for the invalids, and they nurse them with
great care and charity. This province contains fine large lakes with
abundance of delicious fish; in particular, the one near Patzcuaro is

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 73
as large as the Lake of Mexico; there are many boats on it, which
take quantities of fish, among them a small variety like mackerel
(pejerreyes), which they dry in the sun and which are distributed
over many parts of this province.

490. In this kingdom they speak four languages: The Tarasca,
which is their special language, and very elegant; the Otomi, which
is pretty generally spoken; the Chichimeca, and the Mexican. The
Otomi and Chichimeca languages are very obscure and hard to under-
stand. The Tarasca, characteristic of that region, is so called because
when the Spaniards came and settled in that kingdom, the chiefs
gave them their daughters, considering them so valiant and energetic,
and insisted on giving them to them, calling them Tarasque, which
is the same as son-in-law, and so that province got called that of
the Tarascos. The people are brave, diligent, and very intelligent.
The province has varieties of climate—cold, hot, and springlike—and
famous valleys and meadowlands, with streams of sweet crystal-clear
water running through them; hot baths very beneficial for invalids ;
fertile fields which yield abundance of corn, wheat, and other cereals,
both native and Spanish ; there is plenty of pastureland, and in conse-
quence large cattle ranches with constantly increasing product ; sheep
from Castile, from whose wool they weave in the mills fine and
coarse woolen cloth, blankets, sombreros, etc.; they raise also many
hogs.

They have many kinds of native fruit, and among them, the capulies,
which are like the mazard cherries of Spain; they bear abundantly.
All our varieties bear well also, thanks to the excellent nature of the
soil ; the same is true of garden truck and vegetables. They have many
plantations of sugarcane, with their mills and grinding machines,
with which they make quantities of syrup and sugar; with that and
the fruit they put up many kinds of delicious preserves. In these
provinces they have valuable hard timber, which the Tarasco Indians,
who are very ingenious and accurate carpenters, work up into writing
desks, ornamental ink stands, and other great curiosities ; they work
not only in wood but in paintings of featherwork, done with great
dexterity and neatness, with feathers from the [many] beautiful
birds of various colors which they have in this province, and in par-
ticular from a tiny bird which the Indians utilize for their feather
paintings, because it has such unusual colors. This little bird is called
vicisilin, and is a natural curiosity. It flies about for 6 months of
the year—spring and summer—and when it recognizes the approach
of winter, it drives its bill into a certain tree and remains imbedded
there all winter without eating and immovable as though dead; but

174 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

when it feels spring coming, it returns to life again, disengages itself
from the tree, and flies off ; this strange habit should give the philoso-
phers food for speculation. They have also artisans in every specialty,
and famous painters.

491. In the northern part of this diocese, along their frontier with
the Indian tribe of the Chichimecas, they gather wild cochineal, very
fine when worked up; there are large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches ;
they raise excellent horses and mules. All the country is fertile, and
prolific in general and particular. Here are the villages of Upper
(Alto) and Lower (Bajo) Apaseo, 1 league apart; the lower is the
seat of administration; it will contain 200 residents. It has mar-
velous fountains of clear and delicious water, which rises up among
the rocks and crags of Upper Apaseo, which is the border town
against the Chichimeca Indians; there used to be a good fort there
for protection from them. Among the fountains in these villages
of Apaseo there is one of such attractive appearance that it invites
one to drink of its sweet and crystal-clear water; but if one is not
used to it, it causes fever and ague. In Lower Apaseo there is a
Franciscan convent. These two villages belong to the Marqués de
Villamayor; they have [excellent] vineyards there and all varieties
of Spanish fruit and many indigenous. Near Bajo Apaseo runs the
Rio de Acambaro, likewise belonging to the Marqués; in it they catch
fine savory bagres [a yard in length and over] and many other
kinds of fish. At these villages they get two abundant harvests of
wheat and corn each year, one in the rainy season and the other by
irrigation; from them they supply many cities and towns in New
Galicia, and San Luis de Potosi.

CHAPTER XX XI

Continuing the Description of the Diocese and Provinces of the
Kingdom of Michoacan, and the Town of San Luis de Potosi.

492. Returning to the King’s Highway and going from Mexico
City to the town of Querétaro, last in the Archdiocese, at 12 leagues
one comes to the village of San Luis de la Paz, and 2 on from there,
to Palmar Real de Minas, an Alcaldia Mayor. From there it is 18
leagues to the town of San Luis de Potosi, leaving to the left
Michoacan and many Indian villages and Spanish settlements, which
I cannot enumerate [although I shall describe as much as I can
briefly, of this diocese. ]

493. The town and silver mines of San Luis de Potosi lie in a plain
in the midst of fine scenery and with fountains of excellent water ;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 175

a small river is [4] 4 league off. It was founded by Capt. Pedro
Caldera, a brave mestizo, [and Capt. Pedro de Arejmendi (?)
Gogorron, who was the first to build a house there, Julio de Cabala,
Alguacil Mayor of the capital city of Mexico, and Capt. Gabriel
Ortiz de Fuenmayor], in the year 1594. It will contain 500 Spanish
residents, and has a very wealthy parish church with curates [whose
income is Over 4,000 pesos every year] and over 30 clerics; there are
Franciscan, Augustinian, and Jesuit convents, and a fine and wealthy
hospital of the Brethren of San Juan de Dids, San Lorenzo, and
other churches and shrines. The town has abundant and excellent
provision of bread, corn, meat, fish, and preserves, with all sorts
of Spanish fruit [which bear early and in quantity] as well as
indigenous.

494, The residents of this city maintain 22 mining enterprises, in
which there are over 100 smelting ovens; and every year since its
discovery these silver smelters have yielded, in tithes and sales fees
(rescate), over 150,000 silver marks, and over 6,000 gold marks
from the gold occurring with the silver. The range where these
mines are lies 13 leagues from the town of San Luis; it is called
San Pedro; it is very high and round, like a sugar loaf, and resembles
the one in Peru, though not so large. Near it is another range of the
same height, size, and shape, called Las Animas [and one can throw
a stone from it to San Pedro]; this is very rich, but it has not been
worked, nor will be, for here the rock is harder, and the miners have
not the appliances [or the capital] for it, though necessity will force
them to work it, for the reason that San Pedro, from which such
great wealth has been taken, has pretty well given out and has little
ore left, all of which has to be smelted, since it is mixed with lead,
and the quicksilver method is not suitable for it, although perhaps
the miners do not take kindly to other methods.

495. Between these two rich ranges of San Pedro and Las Animas,
runs a notch [which is] all lined with over 50 shops for merchandise
and over 20 bakeries and other food shops, whose proprietors live
[in that notch] there under the allurement of the rich ore in those
ranges. There is a church there with a curate to administer the Holy
Sacraments, and the living brings him in each year over 3,000 pesos.
San Luis lies 45 leagues N. of Valladolid.

496. One-quarter league from the town of San Luis de Potosi is
the village of Tlaxcalilla, with over 500 Indians, and a Franciscan
convent. (Marg.: It has a small river.) This is a marvelous spot,
with excellent climate, bright skies, and bracing air; these Indians
have excellent gardens, delightful to visit, where they grow Spanish

176 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and native fruit, vegetables, and garden truck, which they take to
the town of San Luis and the mines to sell, [so that for some, it is
an agreeable outing and source of supply, and for others a means
of enrichment. |

497. Around the town of San Luis de Potosi, occupied in the
operations of the mines, on the cattle ranches, in the charcoal kilns,
the bakeries, etc., there are over 1,500 Spaniards, and many Indian
villages, all thickly settled because of the good climate and the health-
fulness of the region. The district of this town [of San Luis] marks
the bound of the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court of Mexico, and
the commencement of that of Guadalajara, in New Galicia.

CHAPTER XXXII

Continuing the Description 6f the District of the Diocese of
Michoacan.

498. In the district of this diocese there are large provinces and
Indian settlements, and among them many cities and towns inhabited
by Spaniards, the majority of which are silver-mining towns. In the
N. are those of Guanajuato, 28 leagues from Valladolid, which have
yielded great wealth of silver, and still do at present; the town itself
will contain over [500] 300 Spanish residents, with a parish church,
Franciscan and Augustinian convents, a [very good] hospital, and
other churches and shrines; the Viceroy appoints an Alcalde Mayor
for it. The mines of Tlalpujahua are 15 leagues off: [they have
extracted a large amount of silver from them] ; there are many other
mines in the district, which I cannot enumerate.

499. The town of La Concepcion de Celaya was founded by the
Viceroy Don Martin Enriquez in the year 1570 on the Zacatecas
King’s Highway to New Galicia and New Vizcaya, as a frontier
post against the Chichimeca Indians. It has a springlike climate and
fertile fields with wealth of pastureland, for which reason there are
large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches, with good mules and horses ;
they harvest abundance of corn, wheat, and other cereals, (Marg.:
for which there are large irrigation ditches) ; they raise many kinds
of native fruit and all the Spanish ones. The town will contain 400
Spanish residents, with a parish church, Franciscan, Augustinian, and
Barefoot Carmelite convents, with other hospitals, churches, and
shrines ; there are many Indian villages in the district. In this region
there are other Spanish settlements with many farms full of cattle,
[which I do not enumerate because it would be almost impossible].
Celaya belongs to the Marqués de Villamayor.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 77

500. In the southern part of this diocese, along the seacoast, are
the Provinces of Zacatula and Colima. The town of Zacatula, which
lies in full 18° N., was founded by Juan Rodriguez de Villafuerte
and Ximon de Cuenca, both captains under the Marqués del Valle,
Don Fernando Cortés, in the year 1523. It is on the Pacific coast
within the limits of New Galicia, 50 leagues from Michoacan, which
had been settled first by Capt. Gonzalo de Sandoval at the end of the
year 1522. This is hot country, rich in gold and silver mines, and
with large plantations or milpas of cacao, cassia, and other medicinal
fruits and roots; it abounds in everything necessary for human life.
In this district they have large cattle, mule, and horse ranches; they
gather quantities of corn, cotton, and cochineal. All the Indians in
this region are intelligent, and good Christians.

501. In the district of this diocese there are 113 Indian villages,
49 of them county seats (cabeceras de partidos), and since they are
well administered the communities maintain hospitals for the care
of indigent sick Indians, where they provide them with every care
and luxury. The country is fertile and prolific; they have many
medicinal herbs, roots, and fruits; they raise goats and swine, both
native wild swine and domestic; they have hares, rabbits, tigers,
lions, deer, and many other kinds of animals.

502. Along the Pacific coast the district of this diocese runs 80
leagues, including the Provinces of Zacatula and Colima and other
settlements as far as the port of La Navidad, in 19° N., which is the
boundary town with the Kingdom of New Galicia. It was given
that name by Francisco Vazquez de Coronado, former Governor of
that kingdom, a native of Salamanca, and ancestor of the Marqueses
de Villamayor, because his forebears had had their original home
in the Kingdom of Galicia in Spain; they were lords of the castle
of Coronado after entering Spain from France; they were legitimate
descendants of the kings of France. The boundary of this diocese
runs over 60 leagues inland, and on the N. there are extensive
provinces of heathen to be converted to the Faith; the closest are
the savage Chichimecas. This diocese lies between the Archdiocese
of Mexico on the E. and the Diocese of New Galicia on the W.

503. In the district of this Diocese of Michoacan there are many
silver-mining towns, in which the Viceroy appoints 24 judicial officers :
14 are Alcaldes Mayores, in Zacatula, the mines of Sinagua, Guaco-
manmotines, the mines of Guanajuato, those of Guadalcazar, San
Luis de Potosi (which is now under His Majesty’s jurisdiction),
the mines of Stchil, those of Tlalpujahua, the city of Valladolid, the
town of Colima, the town of La Concepcion de Celaya, the town of

13

178 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

San Miguel, and San Felipe, the town of Leon, the town of Xacdna;
and 10 Corregidores, in Chilchota, Cuyseo, Guayameo, and Sindareo,
Tancitaro, Tajimaroa, and Marabatio, Tuxpan, and Zapotlan, Tlaza-
zalca, Tingitindin, Jiquilpan, Xaso, and Teremundo. Besides these,
the Marqués del Valle (in the district of this diocese) appoints the
Corregidor of Matalzingo (the only post under his jurisdiction up
to the present in this diocese).

CHAPTER XXVII

Of the City of Antequera [Founded in the Oaxaca Valley, and
the District of the Diocese. ]

504. The city of Antequera, which is built in the Oaxaca Valley,
lies 80 leagues ESE. of Mexico on the King’s Highway to Chiapas
and Guatemala. These provinces were conquered by Juan Nunez de
Mercado, a Captain under Fernando Cortés, in the year 1522. In the
same year, under commission from Fernando Cortés, the city was
colonized by Juan Nufiez Sedefio and Fernando de Badajoz, in this
Oaxaca Valley. The city has more than 500 residents; its Cathedral
is one of the best and finest in the Indies; Bishop and Prebendaries
reside there to conduct its services. The city lies in 17°40’; it has
splendid convents; the Dominican is rich and perfectly finished
[one of the finest in the Indies] ; it has over 100 friars, with a school
of Arts and Theology; it is the head convent for the province. It
has also Franciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents,
and the nunneries of Santa Catalina de Sena, Santa Clara, and La
Concepcion ; a hospital, and other churches and shrines.

505. The Oaxaca Valley begins at the Sierra of Cocola in the
district of Huajotitlan; it has a springlike climate; they harvest
quantities of wheat, corn, and all Spanish and native cereals; all
kinds of Spanish fruit, and many delicious native sorts, yield well,
thanks to the fertile soil and good climate; so the city is well supplied
with cheap and delicious food. They raise cacao in this district ;
they have sugar mills; they produce cochineal, annatto, very fragrant
pepper, coyol, and a little berry with which they make quantities of
rosaries; they gather sarsaparilla, copal resin, anime (courbaril)
resin, and all sorts of medicinal fruits and roots ; and in the Provinces
of Upper and Lower Mixteca [which belong in the district] they
produce and work up great quantities of very fine silk; the first to
introduce and raise silkworms was the Licentiate Delgadillo, a native
of Granada, a Circuit Judge in Mexico. In this city they make the
best and most delicious chocolate in the Indies.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 179

506. The river running through this city drops underground
opposite Zimatlan and comes out again 2 leagues away near the
Sierras de Coatlan ; 2 leagues farther from the city and half a league
opposite a sierra lying to the N., there is another low ridge, beyond
which stretches the famous Oaxaca Valley, over an expanse of 16
leagues, all level land, with great ranches raising cattle, sheep, hogs,
mules, and some of the best horses [raised] in that kingdom.

507. In the district of this diocese there are rich silver and gold
mines, for all the rivers carry metal ; there are mines of very remark-
able stones of different colors and virtues in affections of the side,
the milk glands, and the blood; the deer produce bezoar stones ; they
gather mechoacan (bindweed) and cassia. This diocese is over 120
leagues long, from the Atlantic in the Province of Guasacualco, the
boundary point with that of Tabasco in the Diocese of Yucatan,
over to the Pacific; and it extends along the Pacific coast for over
100 leagues, as far as the extreme tip of the Province of Tehuantepec,
where the district of the Circuit Court of Mexico ends, and that
of the Circuit Court of Guatemala and the Diocese of Chiapas, begins ;
and it runs over 40 leagues along the Atlantic coast, with many
fertile provinces thickly populated with different tribes.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of Oaxaca,
and of the Alcaldias Mayores and Corregimientos to Which the
Viceroy Appoints.

508. There are in the district of this diocese five Spanish settle-
ments: the city of Antequera or Oaxaca; the town of Espiritu Santo,
3 leagues from the Atlantic on the Rio de Guasacualco, which was
settled by Capt. Gonzalo de Sandoval, a native of Medellin, in the
year 1523; it has on its territory the villages of Guechollan, Ciuatlan,
Quetzaltepec, and others; it is 90 leagues from Oaxaca. The Rio de
Guasacualco, along which it is built, rises in the Sierras of the
Mixes and Chontales near Tehuantepec and Chiapas.

509. The town of San Ildefonso was settled by Treasurer Alonso
de Estrada when he was Governor of New Spain in the year 1526,
in the Province of Zapotecas, which he subdued together with that
of Xaltepeque; it lies 20 leagues NE. of Oaxaca. This country is
much cut up by high mountain ridges, and has large settlements with
more than 40,000 Indians living in them. These provinces abound
in corn, cotton, cochineal, gold, and other precious metals; they
produce many medicinal roots, fruits, gums, and extracts; there is

180 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

abundance of all sorts of game, and many fish in the rivers. This
noble knight during the period of his incumbency (which was up
to the establishment of a Circuit Court in Mexico) governed with
great success and foresight; he subdued many other provinces, not
only in the district of this Diocese but in all New Spain, and left
them pacified; such were the Provinces of the Mixes, Mixtecas,
Huaxtecos, and others; and he moved and rebuilt the city of Old
Vera Cruz (which had been founded by the Marqués del Valle
Don Fernando Cortés on the Rio de Medellin) to where it is today,
because that was a better site than the other, although on account
of its inconvenient location for the fleets, another settlement sprang
up where New Vera Cruz now is, at the water’s edge opposite the
castle and fort of San Juan de Ulloa. In the district of the Diocese
of Michoacan he subdued the Provinces of the Motines and Cope-
langos, reestablished the towns of Colima and Zacatula, and carried
out other courageous [services] operations in pacifying those tribes.

510. The town of Nixapa lies 20 leagues ESE. of Oaxaca on the
King’s Highway to Chiapas and Guatemala: it has a springlike cli-
mate ; trade there is chiefly based on the sugar mills and on [many]
other native produce. Twenty leagues farther on the same route, and
40 from Oaxaca, lies the town and port of Tehuantepec, with a
Dominican convent. The Province and villages of Mexcaltepec are
farther on, under the jurisdiction of this town; here it borders on the
district of the Diocese of Chiapas. In this district there are large
cattle, horse, and mule ranches, with quantities of game and more
white-bellied hares than in any other part of the Indies. All this
region is hot country [tempered by abundant supplies of luxuries].

511. The chief port of this Diocese is that of Huatulco on the
Pacific; it lies in 16° N. Here they export [much] pitch and other
merchandise consisting of native products, to Peru. There is a very
sacred cross here, a great relic and highly venerated throughout the
kingdom [of New Spain]. The Dutch tried to burn it, and although
they set fire about it, they could not, and were bewildered by the
fact; God has wrought many miracles by it. The Viceroy appoints
to 34 judicial offices in the district of this Diocese of Oaxaca: 22 Cor-
regimientos, in Atlatlahuca de Oaxaca, Chinantla and Veila, Cuicatlan,
Zimatlan, Huajolotitlan, Huaxpaltepec, Huajuapan, Miaguatlan,
Mictla and Tlacolula, Nochixtlan, Papaloticpaque, Tleutitlan del Ca-
mino, Tilantongo, Teozacoalco, Tecocuilco, Temauaca and Quicte-
peque, Texopa, Teotitlan and Macuilxochil, Xustlaguca, Yxtepexi,
Yanguitlan, Iscuintepeque de Los Pefioles ; and 12 Alcaldias Mayores:
Those of the city of Oaxaca, the port of Huatulco, Teposcolula, Teu-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 181

tila, the town and port of Tehuantepec, the town of Guasacoalco, the
town of Nixapa, Villalta de San Ildefonso, Xicayan, Ygualapa,
Yagualulcos ; there are three appointments by the Marqués del Valle
in the district of this Diocese, viz, the Alcaldia Mayor of the four
towns, and two Corregimientos, in Jalapa del Marqués and Xuxtla.

512. The city of Oaxaca lies 60 leagues S. of the port and city
of Vera Cruz. It contains the Provinces of Upper Mixtecas, which
is the one nearer the Pacific, and Lower Mixtecas, which is the
farther inland; [both run E. and W.]. In these many mulberry trees
have been planted and they raise and work up much [very] fine silk;
they abound in corn and other cereals and fruit, both native and from
Spain; there are cacao plantations, and a few mills producing quan-
tities of syrup and sugar; they grow marvelous melons; they have
cattle, stock, sheep, and hog ranches, and excellent mules.

CHAPTER X XIX

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Oaxaca, and of the
Strange Caverns To Be Found in It.

513. There are in the district of this Diocese extensive provinces
thickly populated with natives, and with 350 Indian villages and
over 300 farms in them, both wheat and corn farms, cacao and sugar
plantations, and also cattle ranches; and in these villages and farms
there are over 150,000 Indians paying tribute, with 120 Dominican
convents and curacies, and many under priests as well, and if the
Indians paid tithes of the products the soil yields them, this diocese
would be one of the richest in the Indies, for they raise in it quantities
of silk, cultivated and wild cochineal, and many other kinds of fruit
and cereals, with medicinal roots and gums.

514, In the Sierras de Los Zapotecas in this diocese is the source
of the Rio de Alvarado, a powerful stream where it runs into the
Atlantic between San Juan de Ulloa, limit of the territory of this
Diocese, and that of Guasacualco. Among the numerous native
languages spoken by these Indians, there were, and still are, 13 lan-
guages differing one from the other, although the Mexican is the
most widely diffused, [it] having been introduced by the Mexican
kings for administrative purposes after they had brought them into
their empire. The Mixtecs wore cotton cloaks [and the whole cos-
tume] like the Mexicans, and sandals, and when they went to war
they put on cotton “escaupiles” with very thick padding, which are
tougher than a coat of mail or buff jerkins, in front, and marched
all decked out with feather headdresses ; they wore gold ear pendants

182 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and spirals, and they fought with loud war whoops, like all the tribes
in those parts; they had abundance of everything. In the village
of Cuihuitlan in this province they raise great quantities of the
mechoacan laxative. In this same province in the village of Toto-
machapa there is a cave of remarkable size, with its opening to the S.
There are many mines of gold, silver, lead, and copperas (copper
pyrites?); there is a root the size of an onion which the Indians
use for soap; it forms much lather when they wash with it, and
makes the clothes very white.

515. Five leagues from the city of Oaxaca are the mines of Chichi-
capa, from which a great amount of silver has been taken; and near
these mines on the slopes of a high ridge, there is a cave which is
one of the most strange and remarkable in the world. The mouth
of the cave is like a great portal; the doors which close it are made
of tiny tiles (tegitas) very intricately interlaced ; and inside the cave
two men can ride abreast; the floor is paved with flagstones and
it is all decorated with numerous ancient paintings in very vivid
coloring. It runs for a distance of over 14 leagues, about E. and W.,
and comes out at a village called Mitla in the Province of Zapotecas.
Certainly it is one of the wonders of the world, and those Indians
did it in the days of their heathendom.

516. In the villages of Cuertlavaca and Tequixtepec there is a
very high sierra, and on its slopes there is another cave with a mouth
so narrow that a man can hardly get through it; immediately one
enters a square room over 50 feet high, and beyond this reception
chamber there are flights of steps; next there is a passage with many
turns like a labyrinth, through which one walks following a cord
which serves as a guide to keep one from getting lost and which is
fastened at the entrance. Beyond this labyrinth there is a large plaza
and in the midst of it a spring of excellent water; the heathen did
not venture to drink it, for they considered that it was sacred and
that those who drank of it, would die; at one side of this spring
runs a little stream. The cave goes much farther; they have never
found the end of it; the heathen considered it a holy place. In this
same province there are some very high ranges named Sierras de
San Antonio, and some of the Indians live in hollows in the cliffs;
these are large and can shelter over 100. In this district of the
Mixtecas there are two very high sierras which at their bases are
far apart from each other, but at the top their peaks come so close
that a man can stand with one foot on the one and one on the other,
like the Colossus of Rhodes.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 183

517. The Provinces of Zapotecas and Coyoatecas belonged to a
chief who resided in the village of Teozopotlan. They were at war
with the mountaineers of the Provinces of Los Mixes and those of
Tututepec. This district is larger than that of the Mixtec provinces,
although they are extensive. In Coatlan there is another cave, very
broad and long, which they say comes out in Chiapas, over 100 leagues
away. This Province of the Mixes used to be subject to that of
Tehuantepec, which is in 16° N., and 40 leagues from Oaxaca.

518. There are many other provinces in the district of this Diocese
of Oaxaca, as e.g., those of Huajotitlan ; Tecomavaca, near Mixteca ;
Yztepexic ; Guylapa; Teotitlan, where they speak Mixtec (Masateca)
on the Mixtec border, where they flayed those whom they sacrificed
and then begged alms through the countryside with the skins of these
victims ; they put crowns on their heads before they sacrificed them
so that they should be known as dedicated victims. In Usila and
Atlatlahuca, where they speak the Chinandega language, Motezuma
kept garrisons against the Tuatecas, whom he likewise subdued and
treated with the usual cruelties of his religion; now through the
mercy of God they are all Christian and under the protection of our
Holy Mother the Church; they belong to the district of this Diocese
of Oaxaca, which is the final outpost to the ESE. of the Circuit
Court of Mexico.

Book IV

Of the District of the Circuit Court of New Galicia, [in Which
Is Presented a Description of Its Provinces, with Those of New
Mexico; the Territories, Their Characteristics and Climates, the
Costumes and Customs of the Indians, the Silver-mining Towns and
Smelters, the Cities and Towns with Spanish Settlers in This Area,
the Official Appointments Made by His Majesty, the Viceroy, the
President and Governors, with Many Other Things Worthy of
Mention. |

CHAPTER I

Of the City of Guadalajara, Capital of the Kingdom of New
Galicia, and of Other Features of Its District.

519. The city of Guadalajara, capital and court city of the Kingdom
of New Galicia, lies go leagues NW. of Mexico City, at 20°20’. It
was founded by Nufio de Guzman, [a noble knight], native of
Guadalajara in Spain, in the year 1531, on a pleasant plain with
fertile meadows and fields beside a river which irrigates and fertilizes
its banks ; and he gave it the name of his native town. Three leagues
away is the [large] Rio [called] Grande, which is rich in [delicious]
fish.

520. This city has a marvelous climate, hot rather than cold, with
bright skies and bracing, healthful air. It will contain 600 Spanish
residents, not counting many of the servant class and Negro and
mulatto slaves; there are many native villages in the neighborhood.
It is abundantly supplied with wheat, corn, and other cereals of
excellent quality and cheap; there are in its district many cattle,
sheep, hog, mule, and horse ranches, and plenty of fish in its rivers;
many kinds of native and Spanish fruit; and sugar mills, with whose
product they make delicious preserves; and it has everything else
necessary for human life.

521. This city is the seat of the Circuit Court for the Kingdoms
of New Galicia and New Vizcaya; this has a President, four Asso-
ciate Judges, and an Attorney with all the other dignitaries and
officials necessary. It has very wide jurisdiction—to the N. about
500 leagues up to New Mexico—over many extensive provinces of
Indians and more than 150 Spanish settlements, mainly silver-mining
towns, in which the President of this Court appoints to 90 judicial

184

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 185

offices, Alcaldias Mayores and Corregimientos, besides 27 appoint-
ments in this district made by the Governor of New Vizcaya.

522. In this city of Guadalajara there is a Cathedral where the
Bishop and Prebendaries reside and conduct services. It has excellent
Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit con-
vents, a nunnery, a hospital for the care of the indigent sick, and
other churches and shrines. It occupies the area of a large city;
all its houses have their orchards and gardens, delightful for relaxa-
tion, with indigenous and Spanish fruit trees. There are Officials
of the Royal Patrimony here, with jurisdiction over the whole
province.

523. Near the city lies the Lake of Chapala, beside which is the
boundary with the Circuit Court of Mexico and the Diocese of
Michoacan. When Nufio de Guzman explored and subdued these
provinces, he established and colonized the towns of Espiritu Santo
in Tepic; Santa Maria de Los Lagos, 30 leagues SW. of Guadalajara,
for which the President of the Circuit Court appoints an Alcalde
Mayor; the town of La Purificacion SW. of Guadalajara, near the
Pacific and the port of La Navidad; and in the Province of Jalisco,
W. of Guadalajara, he founded Compostela, where the Cathedral
was originally established until it was moved in the year 1560 to
Guadalajara, where it is at present. Near the city lie the Jora mines,
with rich silver veins and ore deposits.

524. In consequence of some controversies arising between Nuno
de Guzman and Don Fernando Cortés, Marqués del Valle, Emperor
Charles V of glorious memory, while at Toledo on April 18, 1537,
appointed as Governor and Captain General of those kingdoms and
provinces, Francisco Vazquez de Coronado, a gentleman native of
Salamanca. He was a descendant of the blood royal of the kings
of France; his ancestors had settled in the Kingdom of Galicia,
where, for their great services rendered to the Spanish crown, they
were presented with the town of Vausende, together with the castle
and manor of Coronado. Accordingly when this noble knight had
arrived in this kingdom, named Greater Spain (Espafia Mayor) by
Nufio de Guzman after his conquest of it, he found most of it in
rebellion and many of its provinces needing to be subdued. With
great courage, executive ability, and persistence, he succeeded in
overcoming the rebellion and restoring peace; and for the above
reasons, he gave these provinces the name of Kingdom of New
Galicia, which it bears at present ; and his descendants, the Marqueses
de Villamayor, are its Commanders (Adelantados Mayores).

186 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

525. He subdued the Provinces of Izatlan, Guasacatlan with those
of Suchipila, Tlaltenango and those of Teul and Vispatlan, with the
villages of Zacatlan, Tecolquines, and Tecasuchiles, in which Viceroy
Don Antonio de Mendoza had gone to great effort and expense
without success in subduing and pacifying them; this Gov. Francisco
Vasquez de Coronado by his circumspection, courage, and persistence
conquered, subdued, and colonized this region; but his men and he
suffered great hardships in this conquest and pacification, for the
savages wounded him severely in the stubborn and bloody battles
he had with them; nor did he spare himself later, in restoring order
everywhere after his conquest, and in inspecting all the numerous
provinces, in rough country. When all was peaceful he apportioned
the territory and established priests for the proper evangelization
and instruction of the Indians. So His Majesty wrote him in grateful
appreciation of his valuable and distinguished services, on February
20, 1539, charging and directing him by royal warrant to examine
and inspect all the silver mines which had been discovered in the
whole of New Spain and the Kingdom of Mexico, and to establish
rules and regulations for their methods of exploiting them and of
paying the royal impost of 20 percent for His Majesty; and for
these services he granted him the favor of entailing to him the income
from the Provinces of Xacatlan and Mezquitlan and the villages of
Teusuacan, Amaxaquec, Jalacingo with its inhabitants and farms,
and those of Quiyzinquéc with its outlying Chichimecas and Oto-
mites, and the villages of Ysacalco, Tllanama, Guazamota, Xaquexi-
matlan, Atengo, Guachinango, Acatitlan, and those of Cabiregua,
Guarete, Arimota with its dependents (anejos), for his life and
those of his children and grandchildren and descendants, all in the
district of New Galicia, of which he was Governor.

CHAPTER II

Continuing the Description of the Kingdom of New Galicia and
the District of the Diocese of Guadalajara and Its Rich Mines.

526. This kingdom contains extensive and wealthy provinces, with
many silver mines in them. Traveling from San Luis de Potosi
toward Guadalajara, at 12 leagues one comes on the mines named
Sierra de Pinos, with rich deposits and veins of silver; this is where
the Kingdom of New Galicia begins; there will be some 30 Spanish
miners there, with a few tradesmen and transients; there is a Fran-
ciscan convent at this point. Six leagues farther on this same northerly
route is the mining town of Los Ramos, which is built on a plain and
will have 300 Spanish residents, with a parish church and Franciscan

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 187

convent. The mines are situated in a plain, and have been, and still
are, very rich, so much so that from every quintal of ore have been
taken up to 16 and even 20 silver marks, and they would be among
the richest in the world if they were up on some mountain range
or hill, and not down on the plain with water leaking in. They have
20 furnaces for smelting the ore and refining the silver. [The
Province of Chiametlan is on the Pacific coast and rich in silver
mines. |

527. From the mines of Los Ramos it is 12 leagues to the mines
and the city of Zacatecas; here there are very rich mines, which
were discovered in the year 1549, 4 years after those of Potosi in
Peru, and the settlement started then; now it is one of the largest
cities and centers in New Spain, after Mexico City and Puebla de
Los Angeles. It has over 1,000 Spanish residents, very wealthy
mining people, among the finest in New Spain. The city. is built
in a gorge or notch between two mountain ranges and occupies the
whole length of it, so that its principal street will be over a league
long, running up the notch. On this main street stand all the churches
and convents, as in Alcala de Henares. Starting up it, the first build-
ing is the excellent Dominican convent with many friars; then follows
the hospital of San Juan de Dios, with brethren of that order, in
which they nurse the indigent sick with great charity and attentive-
ness. Then come in order the Augustinian convent; next, the parish
church, built at the foot of a high hill or bluff called La Bufa, which
backs it up and acts as a buttress. On top of this steep hill there is
a delicious spring of refreshing cool water, which is also called La
Bufa. This hill is very rich in silver ore, and from its summit,
where this spring is, a very rich vein of silver runs down (mostly
virgin silver, they say) and passes under the city at the center of
the plaza, to reappear in another very high hill which rises on the
other side of the city; all these hills are paved with veins and ore
deposits of silver. Next the parish church comes the Company of
Jesus with a splendid church and a house with many learned and
sainted brethren. There are two other excellent hospitals where they
care for the indigent sick. Next in order comes the convent of the
Seraphic Father St. Francis, admirable in every respect.

528. There are other churches and shrines in this wealthy city.
It lies 40 leagues N. of Guadalajara. It is a busy trading center, for
its wealth and the important people who live there, attract from every
quarter merchants and businessmen with their goods and commodities ;
and as a result it is well supplied with all necessities and luxuries.
There are in the city over 30 mills for the grinding and smelting of

188 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the silver ore from its mines. His Majesty, in consultation with the
Supreme Council of the Indies, appoints a Corregidor for its good
administration and the dispensing of justice; he is lieutenant for
the Captain General of the Viceroy of New Spain, and besides the
salary he gets as Corregidor, he receives 500 pesos for this other
office. One of the Royal Officials for the administration of His
Majesty’s Patrimony, resides here. This city enjoys a climate tem-
perate to cold; it lies in 22°30’ N.

529. Near the city of Zacatecas there are many other silver mines,
such as those of San Martin Avino and others in the district of the
Diocese of Guadalajara and New Galicia ; and to give the full descrip-
tion of this, let me say that we must go back and start again at the
beginning in this direction. From San Luis de Potosi one goes
toward the Rio Verde 12 leagues to the Armadillo. From there one
continues on the same course to the so-called Rio de Las Calabasas,
and from there to the Rio de Las Navajas, and right afterward, to
the Rio Verde, which is the limit of the district of New Galicia.
Near this Rio Verde is a village of Chichimec Indians, and beside
it, on a pleasant and very attractive plain, stands a Franciscan convent.
This is hot country; every year they bring in for summer pasture
over 2,000,000 sheep and ewes because of the wide pasturelands to
be found there. In this direction there are large heathen Indian tribes
yet to be converted to the Faith, and high mountain ranges, in which
dwell the tribes called the Negrillos; beyond them are many others,
as far as Florida.

530. Through the country of these Negrillos runs the Sierra de
Matehuala, which is very high and has rich mines of copper and other
metals; from it gushes forth an abundant spring, with which over
10 leagues of fertile level land can be irrigated. From here one travels
10 leagues to Los Cedros, where there are two streams half a league
apart ; after that for a distance of 28 leagues there is no water. In all
this country belonging to the tribe known as the Negrillos, there are
great quantities of tall, thick cedars. After traversing these ranges
and provinces, one comes to the rich silver Pedregoso mines dis-
covered by Capt. Lucas Manjon; since the silver is full of lead and
the country in a state of war, they have stopped working them;
there are good springs and salt deposits there. Next come other
provinces and settlements in New Galicia, as will be narrated in due
course; through them has been discovered a new route to New
Mexico.

aa, ee ee ee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 189

Cuapter III

Continuing the Description of the Kingdom of New Galicia and
the Kingdom of California.

531. The district of this Kingdom of New Galicia contains many
other provinces, of which I shall give no detailed description, not
desiring to make this account too long; within their limits are ex-
tensive provinces of heathen to be converted to the Faith. To the
NW. along the coast come those of California. Capt. Thomas de
Cardona, who is at present Master of His Majesty’s Bedchamber,
with other officers and wealthy men whom he won over to partner-
ship with him, made an agreement with His Majesty for the explora-
tion of these provinces and the rich banks and beds of pearls and
coral to be found there.

532. For this purpose Capt. Nicolas de Cardona his nephew left
for their exploration, at great expense incurred for the expedition,
and on March 21, 1614, he sailed from the port of Acapulco with
four ships, carrying soldiers as well as sailors, under orders from
His Majesty to explore this kingdom and these provinces of Cali-
fornia and the pearl beds. He reached the mouth or entrance to it,
which begins in 22°30’ N., at over 50 leagues on a NW. course;
both along that part of the continent of New Spain which lies in the
district of New Vizcaya or on its borders, and along the California
coast, the water is red, for which reason they call it the Red Sea
(Mar Bermejo).

533. Along the California coast for a distance of over 100 leagues
he found fields and beds of the oysters which produce pearls, and
on the shore great heaps and mounds of their shells; the Indians
gather them and live on them. Besides these, there are lagoons in
which salt is made and put up in cakes. The mountain ranges are
paved with rich veins and ore deposits of silver. He went as far
up as 33° N. along the arm of the sea which lies between California
and the mainland, running N. In those regions there are great dunes
or sand hills which the violent northers which dash through there at
times, move from one point to another.

534. California is an island and not continental as it is represented
to be on the maps by the cosmographers, for they connect it with
the mainland at 28°30’. That is not so, for this Capt. Nicholas de
Cardona sailed up to 33° and much sea still lay before him to navi-
gate ; he had to turn back for lack of supplies. And that it is an island
is confirmed by the fact that Capt. Jeronimo Marquez came down
from the villages and Provinces of Moqui, which are close to New
Mexico, with 25 companions in a brigantine and they went out on

q

Igo SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the Pacific at 37° and ran along the coast to 35° and they still had
much sea to navigate along this coast to reach New Spain on the SE.,
which is where this California lies, being an island, and they saw it
with their own eyes with Capt. Jeronimo Marquez. There are at
present living in Mexico City Captain Vaca and the carpenter who
built the brigantine or frigate in the region of the Rio Tiz6n, in
which they sailed along the coast, and they ascertained and saw with
their own eyes that California is an island over 600 leagues long,
from Cape San Lucas where it starts, to Cape Mendocino where
it ends. The inhabitants of California are stout, courteous, and
peacefully inclined; they go naked and for weapons have bows and
arrows and light spears for throwing; they live like savages. The
women go naked also, wearing only cloths covering their loins. The
coast of the mainland lies opposite the Florida coast; it is flat, sandy
country with many streams and fertile fields, with many fruit trees
and other things to eat. The natives are more bold and warlike than
those of California.

CHAPTER LV

Of the Kingdom of New Vizcaya, and the Provinces Included
within Its Diocese and State.

535. In the Diocese of Guadalajara there were 104 allotments of
Indians; and since its jurisdiction was very extensive, as is the case
with most of those in the Indies, and since episcopal visits, con-
firmations, and conscientious discharge of duty, were impossible, the
Bishop of Guadalajara, who was the most Christian friar Don Juan
de Ovalle, of the Order of the Glorious Patriarch Saint Benedict,
asked to have it divided; and in accordance with his request and
advice, another Bishop was established in the city of Guadiana, also
called Durango, which is the capital of New Vizcaya. Its first Bishop
was Fray Don Gonzalo Hermosillo, M.A., a most learned ecclesiastic,
and most worthy member of the Order of the Glorious Doctor and
Patriarch St. Augustine.

536. The Diocese and State of New Vizcaya begins at the mines
of Fresnillo, 12 leagues distant from Zacatecas; there will be 100
Spanish residents here, with a Franciscan convent; it has rich silver
mines and veins. Twelve leagues farther on, as one travels toward
Guadiana, lie the mines of Los Plateros and Sombrerete and others,
with rich silver veins and ore beds, and some establishments in which
they smelt the metal. All this country has a good climate and is
provided with plenty of supplies, for it is very fertile; they raise
quantities of wheat, corn, and other cereals, with abundance of native

Pp ees Siete on. ~ agit

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA Ig!

and Spanish fruit and grapes, and much cattle, sheep, swine, mules,
and horses.

537. Twenty-five leagues beyond the mines of Los Plateros lies the
city of Guadiana, capital of New Vizcaya. It is built on a plain beside
a river with lovely views and pleasant for excursions. The city will
contain 400 Spanish residents; there is a Cathedral with Bishop and
Prebendaries residing there to serve it ; it has Franciscan, Augustinian,
and Jesuit convents, a hospital where they care for the indigent sick,
and other churches and shrines.

538. This city is the residence of the Governor of New Vizcaya,
who is a Captain General with the title of Lordship. In his admin-
istrative district, which is extensive, with many mining towns and
other provinces and settlements, he appoints 27 judicial officers—
Alcaldes Mayores and Corregidores—in the mines of Cuencamé, in
Sombrerete, in Fresnillo, in Saltillo, in Mapimi, and in many other
mining towns which it is impossible to enumerate.

539. In this city of Guadiana there are Officials of the Royal Patri-
mony, and they have representatives at many points, for it is a large
district. They raise great numbers of cattle and supply all of New
Spain. The city is abundantly supplied with wheat, corn, and other
cereals, both native and Spanish, with abundance of fruit; there are
sugar mills and many vineyards in the neighborhood. The city has
a marvelous springlike climate.

540. Twelve leagues from the city of Guadiana, to one side toward
the N., lies the famous mining town of Cuencamé, which contains
over 300 Spanish residents; many of them possess large establish-
ments and foundries in which to smelt the ore. This town has a
parish church, Franciscan and Jesuit convents, a hospital, and other
churches and shrines. For these mines the Governor appoints an
Alcalde Mayor, for its good administration and the dispensing of
justice.

541, On this same northerly course, returning to the mines of
Pedregoso: 12 leagues beyond them lie the mines of Saltillo. These
will contain over 100 Spanish residents; the Governor of New Viz-
caya appoints an Alcalde Mayor for their good administration. The
region has a springlike climate and is a delightful spot. It contains
a parish church and a Franciscan convent where they teach Arts
and Theology. There are large farms of wheat, corn, and other
cereals, many vineyards, and abundance of fruit, both Spanish and
native. Twelve leagues farther on is the New Kingdom of Santa
Lucia which is at present being explored and settled; it contains
a town with 30 Spanish residents and a Franciscan convent. The

IQ2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

country is delightful, with a good climate; it contains a river full
of delicious fish, and is a route to New Mexico, though not yet
explored.

542. It has many other provinces and very rich mining towns, as
e.g., in the province of Topia. Here in the year 1602 the Indian
tribes of the Tepehuanes, Acaxeses, and Conchos, savage Caribs, had
retired into the mountains, and kept dashing down to raid the country,
[In the year 1602] Don Rodrigo de Vivero, the then Governor of
New Vizcaya, set out to chastise them, raising soldiers from the
countryside, and among them Ensign Fernando Méndez de Ocampo
y Sotomayor ; he distinguished himself above the others in scouting
to locate the enemy, and by his great skill and assiduity they con-
quered the savages, carrying off their women and children, whom
they took to the Topia mines; and so they subdued them, and the
country remained quiet and peaceful. (The MS. contains on folio 33
a note of which the above in the text from folio 32 is an expansion.)

In the mines of Chindehé and Santa Barbara, Alcaldes Mayores
are appointed by the Governor of New Vizcaya for their satisfactory
administration. The mines of Mapimi are 100 leagues from Guadiana
on the road to New Mexico; the town was built in the mountains
where these rich silver veins and ore deposits lie; there are eight
rich silver companies there with their establishments for grinding
and refining the metal. The town has 100 Spanish residents; there
is a parish church there and a Franciscan convent, a hospital for
the care of the sick, and other shrines. In this town the Governor
of New Vizcaya appoints an Alcalde Mayor for the administration
of justice.

CHAPTER V

Continuing the Description of New Vizcaya, and of the Famous
Achievements of Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado in His Cam-
paign of Pacification.

543. The Provinces of Chiametlan lie along the Pacific coast at
22° N., with rich silver mines; the town of San Sebastian has been
built here. Next to the W. along this same coast comes the Province
of Culiacan. This is fertile, with abundance of foodstuffs and a
good climate; there are silver mines. Forty leagues beyond the
Province of Culiacan is the Province of Sinaléa, in which is built
the town of San Juan de Sinaloa, the last that has been settled in
that direction. Pres. Nufio de Guzman and Diego de Ybarra, Knight
of the Order of Santiago, began the work of subduing these provinces,
and later the pacification was completed by Gov. Francisco Vasquez

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 193

de Coronado, by dint of his persistence and courage, but at the cost
of many hardships for himself and his men, for the Indians had
learned by experience and were shrewd.

544, At the same time he subdued the provinces and valleys of
the Corazones, where he established the town of San Jeronimo de
Los Corazones; and he called the valley by his own name, and to
this day it bears the name of Coronado. He placed priests among
them, to catechize them and teach them our Holy Faith. He had
great battles with the Indians, and in one they killed his Militia
Captain Lope de Samaniego; he won many others; and when His
Majesty had been fully informed of his great services, although the
Marqués del Valle had already been named Governor of the newly
discovered territories of Cibola, His Majesty gave Coronado the
preference, appointing him Governor and Captain General of them
all, with great honors, conferred in a royal warrant and letter of
January 6, 1540, which he sent to the Viceroy of Mexico, Don
Antonio de Mendoza, for him to give to Coronado and to commission
him for these explorations and campaigns.

545. He set out with a brilliant army; what he spent on prepara-
tions for the campaign, his many soldiers and the nobility whom he
took with him, amounted to over 100,000 ducats. He underwent
very great hardships in subduing the numerous provinces spreading
over an extent of the more than 400 leagues intervening between
Guadiana and New Mexico; he went through many trials with his
army, both in the wars he waged with the ferocious savages, who
killed his Militia Captain and some of his soldiers, and in the loss
of many of his men from the hard going; he himself was badly hurt
by a stone in a cruel battle he had with the tribesmen of the Province
of Tigues. He was the first to discover New Mexico, and the King-
doms of Mataca and Tontitlaca, with all their provinces, in which
he had serious clashes with the savages; and when he had pacified
them, he ordered many crosses erected as a sign of His Majesty’s
sovereignty and he had many of the Indians catechized and baptized ;
thus they were converted and came to the knowledge of our Holy
Faith.

546. He explored the Provinces of Quivira in the District of New
Mexico; it is level country, chilly, and with few trees, with quantities
of woolly, humpbacked cattle with two short horns twisted backward ;
they move over the prairies grazing in herds, and are the sole suste-
nance of the savages. They are very ugly and wild; the wool on
their chest in front is long and curly ; they make excellent rugs from
their hides, which are used in those regions and in many parts of

14

1Q4 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

New Spain, and they are very good; but since other historians deal
largely with that country and its features, I shall omit further descrip-
tion. He explored the Provinces of Cibola and many others, suffering
many hardships during the extended period of his explorations in
those regions; and he sent out officers in different directions on
exploring parties—in especial, from the information he had received
about Florida from Alvaro Nujfiez Cabeza de Vaca and the Negro
Estebanico, he dispatched officers for its subjugation.

547. But since they were suffering great hardships and the country
was so cold and poor, and he saw his men were worn out and dis-
heartened, for fear they might mutiny, he wisely turned back for
New Spain, having traveled in this expedition over 1,000 leagues
suffering great hardships and much hunger. So he returned to
Mexico City, and in view of the great services he had rendered His
Majesty, the Viceroy came out to meet him with the Circuit Court
Justices and the city at large, and paid him the high honors due his
merits.

CHAPTER VI

Continuing the Exploits of Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,

and the Description of the Remainder of New Vizcaya and the

Exploration of New Mexico.

548. Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado governed New Galicia
and New Vizcaya 11 years for His Majesty, during which time he
subdued and brought under orderly administration, all those provinces.
He made a loan to Queen Joan, mother of the Emperor, of his whole
salary for his term of office; and this circumstance, together with
the heavy expenses he incurred in the exploration of New Mexico,
was responsible for his dying a very poor man in the year 1551 in
Mexico City. He left two legitimate daughters by his wife, Dona
Beatriz de Estrada. These were Dofia Isabel de Lujan and Dojfia
Marina Vazquez de Coronado, and they were left in poverty, having
been deprived of the income of their allotments, although His Majesty,
when he sent him off on his explorations, had promised they would
not be withdrawn; but the latest enactments with regard to the case,
did not return them to them.

549. In consequence of the expedition of this noble gentleman to
New Mexico, God has now been recompensed by the fact that there
are many new Christians there; a city with as many as 70 Spanish
residents has been established there, with a Governor appointed by
the Viceroy with the title of Lordship and Captain General and a
salary of 2,000 pesos. In these Provinces of New Mexico there are

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 195
16 convents of the Seraphic Father St. Francis, with a Commissary
General; these are occupied in preaching and teaching the Indians,
and it is God’s pleasure that His Divine Word bears much fruit, in
that all the heathen are thus being brought into this new church to
knowledge of our Holy Faith, which they receive and embrace with
excellent spirit; they accept the catechism and baptism with great
fervor and increase of new Christians; and after God, much of this
is due to Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado, who created the
beginnings of this new Christianity.

550. He relieved the city of San Miguel de Culiacan and its
province, which had been blockaded by the rebellion of the powerful
Indian chief Ayapin, who had incited the spirits of all the natives
of those provinces against the Christians; he fought a battle with
Ayapin, and having defeated him, he hanged him and others as a
penalty and a warning ; and so the country quieted down and remained
pacified. Right afterward, in the year 1539, with aid from the Vice-
roy of Mexico, Don Antonio de Mendoza, he took with him Fray
Marcos de Niza of the Franciscan Order, with his companion Fray
Honorato and Estéban the Negro, and they started out from Petatlan
and Cuchillo, which lie 60 leagues beyond Culiacan on the Pacific
coast. From Petatlan they traveled 30 leagues along the same route,
escorted by Indians from that region and the islands lying near the
mainland; and 16 leagues farther on, after traveling through unin-
habited country, they came to another large province of Indians
wearing clothing ; these informed them that at the distance of 4 suns
inland, where their territory ended, it became a great valley with
large towns of people who wore clothing, had a regular government,
and were wealthy, with gold vessels and gold spirals and other orna-
ments which they wore suspended from their ears and_ nostrils.
This valley runs for many leagues of level land, with fertile and
prolific side valleys ; in these they harvest quantities of corn and other
cereals, pumpkins and excellent melons, and other fruit in abundance ;
this country runs eastward.

551. Four days’ journey from this province comes that of Vacapa
to the N., 4o leagues inland from the Pacific; to one side of this
province there is another bordering upon it where the natives have
their breasts and arms painted and tattooed. Another large province
borders upon Vacapa, more than 25 leagues long, with many settle-
ments; their natives are very intelligent and well governed; they
wear cotton clothing and antelope skins which are well decorated ;
as jewelry they wear turquoises. At the end of the province there
is a splendid valley, cool and delightful ; it contains the last settlement

196 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in this province. They grow quantities of corn and other vegetables
and fruit; the Indians are very reasonable people; they wear cotton
clothing and antelope skins; for jewelry they have turquoise neck-
laces. From this valley one travels 4 days through uninhabited country
to another large valley which is fertile and thickly settled; this is
over 30 leagues long, and all the natives are intelligent and have
elaborate clothing; the chief town is named Ahacus. This is all
under irrigation, and they raise quantities of corn and other cereals,
pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. W. of this great valley
and province lies the Kingdom of Marata, which used to be large
and thickly settled ; now it has declined greatly, thanks to the serious
wars waged with the King of the Seven Cities of Cibola, where New
Mexico now is. The houses are built of stone and mortar. The
Kingdom of Tonteac is large, wealthy, and luxurious, with many
settlements ; the natives wear cotton clothing and antelope skins ; they
are a very intelligent people.

552. There is another kingdom beyond those mentioned, named
Acus. It has large settlements; the people wear clothing and are
civilized. In the large valley there was the hide of an animal half
as large again as our bulls; it had a horn on its forehead; evidently
it was a unicorn. From there it is 70 leagues to Cibola, uninhabited
territory but full of game—hares, like ours. Cibola, which today
is New Mexico, is situated in a plain by the side of a rounded eleva-
tion ; it is a sightly and attractive spot. The houses are two or three
stories high, with flat roofs. It was in this town that in 1539 they
killed Estéban the Negro, who had wandered with Alvar Nujfiez
de Vaca and his companions from Florida; he died for the spread
of faith in Christ.

CHAPTER VII

Continuing the Subject of the Preceding Chapter, and of the
Favors Conferred upon the Marqueses de Villamayor, Descendants
of Francisco Vazquez de Coronado and Heirs of His House and
His Memory.

553. At the good news brought by Father Fray Marcos de Niza,
Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado (with great expenditure of his
own wealth, and with aid from the Viceroy Don Antonio de Men-
doza) brought together a brilliant army with many gentlemen and
men of valor; he enrolled 150 cavalry and 200 infantry, with much
war material, baggage, and many servants. He started out with this
army in the month of May, 1539, along the route of Father Fray
Marcos de Niza, and in 4 days’ journey he reached the Rio de

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 197

Petatlan, pacifying those tribes; in 3 more, the Province of Sinaloa,
which he likewise pacified ; and from there he went on to the valleys
of the Corazones and Sefiora, whom he reduced to subjection; he
established the town of San Jeronimo among them, and continued his
expedition with success in bringing great numbers of the natives to
the Faith and the service of His Majesty.

554, He kept on, subduing other provinces and passing through
some uninhabited tracts, and 5 days’ journey before Cibola, to the
NE., he subdued the Province of Tucayan and pacified the inhabi-
tants. There are seven large pueblos here, well laid out and all with
flat-roofed houses; the Indians have elaborate cotton clothing and
tanned antelope skins; the Indian women dress like gypsies. He
put up crosses for them and had them catechized and instructed in
our Holy Faith. They live on the banks of a large river, whose
waters, like those beyond up to the Saguan, empty into the Pacific,
and those farther, from Cibola on, empty into the Atlantic.

555. Bordering on this is another large province, all of whose
pueblos are built on the banks of the Rio Huex; in a distance of
20 leagues along its course there are 15 settlements, all with flat roofs,
as are the many others in this region. The people are all very reason-
able; they use cotton cloth and antelope skins for clothing. He
rendered them peaceful and had our Holy Faith preached and taught
to them, delivering them from the blindness in which they were
living ; he raised many crosses among them all in token of possession.

556. At 35 leagues from this province there is another extensive
one, along the Rio Sicuique, with large settlements, which he likewise
pacified ; for the next 25 leagues the way lies over the plains, where
there are countless herds of these humpbacked cattle. Fifty leagues
to the N. is the Province of Harac, with large settlements ; it borders
on Quivira, which is in 40°. This country is a wonderfully attractive
region, with great plains and forests, through which flow mighty
rivers. There are many kinds of fruit like ours in Spain—plums of
a color between red and green and well-flavored, grapes, mulberries
(or blackberries), walnuts, melons, and many others. Accordingly,
having brought his conquering expedition to an end, he returned
to Mexico City, as has been narrated, and there after all the trials
he had gone through, he died poor and left his daughters in poverty.

557. His Majesty King Philip III of glorious memory took into
consideration the distinguished services of Gov. Francisco Vazquez
de Coronado, having been informed of them by the members of the
Supreme Council of the Indies; and also those of Gen. Fernan Pérez
de Bocanegra y Cordoba rendered in his successful campaigns in

198 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

New Spain and his conquests in the year 1523 of the Provinces of
Jalisco, Suchipila, and others, when he escorted Pres. Nufio de
Guzman; and considering that they had not been rewarded, and
considering also the conspicuous services rendered by Don Francisco
Pacheco de Cordoba y Bocanegra, His Majesty graciously conferred
on him, under date of March 6, 1610, the title of Perpetual Com-
mander (Adelantado Perpetuo) of the Kingdom of New Galicia,
which was won, settled, and governed by his forebears, for him and
for all his successors. And later, on April 7 of that year, 1617, he
graciously conferred on Dofia Marina Vazquez de Coronado the
title of Marquesa de Villamayor for all the days of her life; and to’
her son Don Francisco Pacheco de Cordoba y Bocanegra, Knight of
the Order of Santiago and Perpetual Commander of New Galicia,
he graciously gave the title (on May 27 of that same year) of
Marqués de Villamayor for himself and all his successors; for in
this manner His Majesty rewards and honors the noble and loyal
vassals who serve him.

CuaptTer VIII

Continuing the Description of the Provinces of New Mexico,
Based on Another Expedition Which Was Made in the Year 1581.

558. In the year 1581 Father Fray Augustin Ruiz of the Order
of St. Francis received word from Indians of the Conchos tribe
living in the valley of San Bartolomé beyond the mines of Santa
Barbara in the State of New Galicia of extensive provinces and
settlements farther on. [At that time the Count of Nieva was
Viceroy of New Spain]. He set out with two companions and
eight soldiers accompanying him, and explored extensive provinces
in that direction as far as the Province of Tigues, which is 280
leagues from Santa Barbara. On their way the Indians killed one
of the friars ; and the soldiers, considering how few they were among
such great numbers of savages, turned back, leaving the friars with
a mestizo and three boys; and the savages killed them all later.

559. The soldiers told their story to Capt. Antonio de Espejo, a
wealthy and important resident of Mexico City, who at that moment
was at the Santa Barbara mines. With the permission of Juan de
Ontiveros, Alcalde Mayor of the four villages of Las Ciénegas in
the State of New Vizcaya, 70 leagues beyond Santa Barbara, this
Antonio de Espejo raised at his own expense a force of over 150
soldiers; he took along in his company Father Fray Bernardino
Beltran of the Order of St. Francis; and with 115 horses and mules
carrying the baggage and munitions, he left the valley of San Bar-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 199

tolomé on November 10, 1582. Two days later on this northerly
route he reached the Province of the Conchos, thickly settled with
many villages, and abounding in corn and other cereals, vegetables
and pumpkins, with quantities of game—deer, hares, and rabbits.
They have very good melons there, and abundance of fish in the
streams. These Indians have bows and arrows for weapons; they
received them peaceably ; they are governed by caciques. These Indians
guided them 24 leagues through their own province up to that of
the Pasuguates, who are in every respect like the preceding tribe.
The neighboring province is that of the Tobosos. They all received
them amicably and rendered them service.

560. Twelve leagues farther on is the Province of the Jumanos,
otherwise called Patarabuies, with large settlements and the houses
built of stone and mortar with flat roofs; it abounds in corn and
other cereals and fruits. These Indians are more intelligent and
better governed than the preceding, although they are tattooed on
their breasts, legs, and arms. They have abundance of meat—hares,
rabbits, deer, and other animals and fowl—and in the rivers running
into the Atlantic there are plenty of fish. There are salt lakes in this
province, from which they make excellent salt. They are a warlike
tribe. The great majority of the villages in this province lie on one
bank or the other of a mighty river. The people all wear clothing
made of cotton and antelope skins. They had knowledge of God,
whom they call Apolito; they had crosses and paid them great rev-
erence. Alvar Nufiez Cabeza de Vaca had been in this province
when he came through from Florida, and so all the Indian women
brought their children for the friar to bless them and sprinkle holy
water upon them, and the sick came with great faith to implore the
priest’s benediction. The country produces abundance of corn and
other foodstuffs ; they have excellent antelope skins and make other
elaborate works of art. Twelve leagues off there is another large
settlement in which they weave excellent striped rugs and work up
and decorate very good antelope skins. Twenty-two leagues away,
through settlements of this same tribe, there are rich silver mines,
to the W. of this province.

561. Along the same route there is another province, more thickly
settled than the last, where there are many lakes abounding in fish;
the people are very intelligent. At 15 days’ journey to the W. there
is a very large lake with many villages along its entire circumference ;
these have houses two or three stories high; the people are intelligent
and well governed; they wear cotton clothing and antelope skins.
The country has a marvelous climate, with abundance of foodstuffs

200 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and much game—hares, rabbits, deer, partridges—and fish in the
streams; it has splendid meadowland with attractive scenery; there
are silver mines there.

CHAPTER IX

Continuing the Account of the Exploration and of the Provinces
of New Mexico.

562. Capt. Antonio de Espejo, in continuing his campaign of
exploration, left his army in the province just described and with a
few soldiers pushed ahead 12 leagues eastward to another province,
in which there were 11 pueblos containing over 40,000 souls; these
were intelligent people; they are next the Province of Cibola; they
wear clothing made of cotton cloth and of the decorated skins of
those buffalo. Six leagues to the N. up the river is the Province of
the Quires; in the first five pueblos there were more than 15,000
souls, all intelligent people and well governed ; this country is at 37° N.

563. Fourteen leagues N. along the same course comes the Prov-
ince of the Cumanes, in which there were five pueblos. The principal
one was called Cia; it contained eight plazas; the houses were all
built with mortar and painted with designs in different colors; the
people were better disciplined and more intelligent than those
hitherto; the province contained over 20,000 souls. At 6 leagues
to the NW. comes the Province of the Amejes; it contains seven
pueblos whose population will be over 30,000 souls; they are entirely
similar to their neighbors.

564. Fifteen leagues to the W. of this province lies Acoma, with
over 6,000 souls. It is built on a cliff 50 stades (93 yards) high; their
drinking water comes from cisterns; they are abundantly supplied
with provisions. Their fields are 2 leagues away, along the banks
of a small stream which they use for irrigation. They wear cotton
and woolen blankets and nicely decorated antelope skins. In this
province there are many rosebushes like our own.

565. Twenty-four leagues W. of this province lies Zuni, otherwise
called Cibola, where the city of New Mexico has been established.
It was discovered and conquered by Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,
and he had set up many crosses there. They found three Christian
Indians in the city—Andrés de Coyoacan, Gaspar de México, and
Antonio Guadalajara, They had come in with Gov. Francisco Vaz-
quez, and told of a great lake on whose banks there were large
settlements, and that that country was very rich.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 201

566. The padre and the army stayed in this province, and Capt.
Espejo with nine companions journeyed 28 leagues eastward, coming
upon an extensive province with more than 50,000 souls; and near
the pueblo of Zaguato, which is the chief town, they were met by
the caciques and all the inhabitants with great festivities. The country
is abundantly supplied with everything. They wear woolen and
cotton blankets very elaborately decorated, and antelope skins; they
have towels with tassels at the ends, and other elaborate specialties.
There are silver mines 45 leagues W. of this province; some very
rich ones lie on mountain ranges inhabited by highland Indians.
This province contains many large rivers with fine valleys and forests
along their banks and courses; in them are many walnut trees, vine-
yards, and other fruit trees like our own; they raise excellent flax.
Behind these mountain ranges runs a mighty river, and along both
its banks there are large heathen villages, although some are being
Christianized by the Franciscan Fathers, who are established in New
Mexico, where they have 18 convents distributed over all these
provinces. They are like workers in the Lord’s vineyard and are
cultivating these new shoots from among the heathen, preaching
them the Holy Gospel and teaching them our Holy Faith. This
country is abundantly provided with everything necessary for human
life.

567. Returning to Cibola, 60 leagues along the river to the N.
one comes to the Province of the Quires already mentioned, and 12
leagues E. of that, the Province of the Hubates, with abundance ot
supplies and a population of over 25,000 souls, all intelligent people ;
it contains mines of silver and other metals, great forests of pine
and cedar, and houses two or three stories high. One day’s journey
from there is the Province of Tamos, with over 4,000 souls; this
was rediscovered by Capt. Antonio de Espejo, after the original
discovery and visit by Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado. This
is the site of New Mexico, a city with over 80 Spanish residents
and a Governor appointed by the Viceroy of New Spain for its good
administration ; he has a salary of 2,000 pesos and the title of Lord-
ship. There are in these provinces 18 Franciscan convents for the
evangelization and the instruction of the Indians and the administra-
tion of the Holy Sacraments. They have a Commissary General
named and appointed by the General of New Spain.

568. Capt. Antonio de Espejo turned back from the Province of
Tamos, guided by a friendly Indian, down the Rio de Las Vacas
(so called from the numbers of buffalo along its banks), along which
they traveled 120 leagues; after that they went on to the Rio de

202 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Las Conchas, and from that they crossed to the San Bartolomé
Valley, where they had started. They reached this valley in July 1583,
after exploring so many provinces, many of which they left catechized ;
and at present most of them are coming to the knowledge of our
Holy Faith through the instruction of the friars who are preaching
there and teaching them the way of salvation. This must suffice as
a description of the district of the Circuit Court of New Galicia
and the provinces of New Mexico and allow us to pass in the follow-
ing book to the description of the district of the Circuit Court of
Guatemala and its provinces.

Book V

Of the District of the Circuit Court of Guatemala.

[In which a description is given of all its provinces with their
characteristics and the fruits grown there and in particular] An
account is given of cacao and indigo and how they are prepared;
of balsam and other medicinal drugs; and of the active volcanoes
[to be found there; the cities and towns with Spanish residents ; the
Governorships and Alcaldias Mayores filled by His Majesty in con-
sultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies; the Corregidores
appointed by the President of the Circuit Court; the ecclesiastical
posts, and the other remarkable features of this country. |

569. Capt. Pedro de Solérzano had come over to New Spain in
the year 1518 with Pamphilo de Narvaez when he opposed Fernando
Cortés ; and after his commanding officer had been defeated by the
valor and good fortune of Fernando Cortés, and the victor had
shown them courteous treatment, he followed Cortés and helped
him capture the city of Mexico, taking part in all the attacks. After
the conquest, his general sent him out to subdue Guatemala and
Chiapas; in this task he proved himself a valiant and energetic
officer on every possible occasion. Having helped to conquer Guate-
mala and its provinces and those of Honduras, he came back from
there to those of Chiapas; in conjunction with Captain Mazariegos,
he subdued and settled them, and was assigned their Indian allot-
ments. This gentleman had children, and among them Capt. Melchior
de Solorzano, whose son is Don Frutos de Soldrzano.

CHAPTER [

Of the Royal City of Chiapa and the District of Its Diocese.

570. The Province of Chiapas was subdued and pacified by Cap-
tains Diego de Mazariegos and Pedro de Solorzano in the year 1524:
they had been sent down by Fernando Cortés, Marqués del Valle.
They had had some battles with the Chapanecas Indians, whose
subjugation was a terrible task, for they had withdrawn to a strong-
hold on a cliff where they held out a long time; but they could not
withstand the valor of our Spaniards, and many threw themselves
down from the height. On this occasion Don Pedro Portocarrero
arrived on the same errand, having come from Guatemala under
orders from Commander Don Pedro de Alvarado; but when he

203

204 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

found the country occupied, he returned to Guatemala. So Captains
Mazariegos and Solérzano, who had conquered the territory and
pacified it with their own soldiers and many of those who had come
with Don Pedro Portocarrero, allotted it among them all.

571. In that same year they founded the royal city of Chiapa in
a circular valley which is shut in on every side by ridges and moun-
tains. This valley is a league long and in its center there is a high
bluff on whose eastern slopes they built their city, which is 100
leagues E. of Oaxaca, and 80 from Guatemala City, which lies to
its ESE.; it is in 18°30’ N. The valley in which the city lies has
a cool climate, and is rich in excellent and refreshing water from its
handsome fountains; besides these there are two streams whose
waters flow southward through the valley and unite at the foot of
a high mountain, dropping into a basin or gully at its foot.

572. This city was colonized a second time and embellished by
the Treasurer Alonso de Estrada 2 years later, in 1526, when he
was Governor and Captain General of New Spain, and he was a
blessing to this country, as befitted a son of King Ferdinand the
Catholic, as he was said to be by many authors, and his deeds
indicate it, for with his intrepidity and excellent administration all
those provinces stayed quiet and tranquil, after having been sorely
tried.

573. This city contains over 250 Spanish residents, the great
majority of noble rank. It has a Cathedral with a Bishop and
Prebendaries in residence and attendance, with Dominican, Fran-
ciscan, and Mercedarian convents, a hospital in which they care for
the indigent sick, and other churches and shrines. An Alcalde Mayor
resides here, appointed by His Majesty in consultation with the
Supreme Council of the Indies for its good government and the
administration of justice in the city and all the many provinces in
its district.

574. The royal city of Chiapa is over 60 leagues distant from the
Atlantic, and in that direction there are many heathen Indians to
be Christianized, like the tribes of the Lacandones and the Manchés,
who do great harm to their neighbors the Zoque Indians, and the
others in that region; but they could easily be pacified and brought
to the knowledge of our Holy Faith, since a beginning was made
by Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla when he was President of Guate-
mala; but since his death, all those provinces have been far from
peaceful.

575. The city is also 60 leagues distant from the Pacific, so that
it is equidistant from the two seas. On that side it has many provinces

WHOLE VOL. THE) WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 205

and settlements of Christian Indians, allotted to the residents of the
city. It is abundantly supplied with cheap and delicious foodstuffs ;
they harvest abundance of wheat, corn, large beans, the whole year
through, as in other parts of the Indies, chickpeas, kidney beans, and
other cereals, and all sorts of fruit, both Spanish and native.

576. This diocese is over 70 leagues long from E. to W., and over
60 across from N. to S. It lies between the Diocese of Oaxaca to
its WNW. and that of Guatemala on its ESE.; in its district are
many provinces, the great majority with a hot climate. The chief
provinces are four in number: the Province of the Chapanecas, from
which the city and Diocese take their name; the Province of the
Zoques ; that of the Zendales ; and that of the Quelenes ; and although
in each village and province there is a native mother tongue, these
four are the most general and widespread, and still more the Mexican,
which was introduced for administrative purposes, the Mexican
kings having issued orders that their language should be used in all
the provinces and tribes which they subdued and brought into their
empire, and so it is spoken as a lingua franca in the whole country.

577. In the district of this Diocese they have large ranches of
cattle, sheep, swine, mules, and the best horses in all New Spain;
they can compete with those of Cordova, and some assert that they
surpass them. They gather quantities of fine cultivated cochineal,
and wild from the mountains; wax and honey in abundance, cacao,
annatto, excellent fragrant pepper which comes from trees; fine coyol
and a berry from which they make quantities of rosaries which are
an article of commerce; and cotton, which the Indians weave into
quantities of native cloth, used for cloaks, guaypiles, and other sorts
of clothing; these are exported by merchants and traders to Guate-
mala and its territory and other regions.

CHAPTER II

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Chiapas and Its
Provinces.

578. The Province of Chiapas contains over 25 villages. The
leading one is the capital, Chiapa de Los Indios, from which the
whole Diocese takes its name; it is one of the largest and finest
Indian towns, not only in New Spain but in all the Indies; it contains
over 10,000 Indian residents, all well disciplined and intelligent.
They are very skillful and ingenious, and quickly learn any trade
that requires artistry ; they are very gentlemanly, courteous, and well
brought up, and the great majority are excellent horsemen and so

206 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

they have very good horses and fine rodeos; they perform their
evolutions with reed spears and hoops with such skill that they might
very properly appear at His Majesty’s court.

579. This Indian village of Chiapa is built on the King’s Highway
from Mexico City to Guatemala, on a high point near a large river
which abounds in fish; on its banks they raise good melons. This
river runs into the Atlantic near Tabasco, becoming an estuary.
The village of Chiapa is 12 leagues approximately to the W. of
the royal city of Chiapa. Its climate is hot and salubrious, like that
of the province as a whole. There is a fine Dominican convent here,
for the catechizing and instruction of the Indians, and the admin-
istration of the Holy Sacraments. There are some Spaniards living
among the Indians in this village. In the center of the plaza is an
excellent and very artistic fountain. The region is very fertile and
supplies are cheap and abundant. Every day they hold tiangues,
i.e., markets, where every afternoon they sell all sorts of fruit, food-
stuffs, and other necessities. They maintain a good administration
in their communities, and they are charitable to poor travelers who
have to pass through; they have special persons in their communities
for the dispensing of charity. As for the penniless Spaniard who
has nothing with which to pay them for the provisions they give him
and the horse for his further progress, they give him all this for the
love of God, and an Indian to guide him to the next village, and
ask him merely to enter it in the community record book so that
the amount may be made good by the stewards (mayordomos) in
whose province that falls. And they give everything necessary to
the priests for their services in saying Mass, and treat them with
great kindness. It appears that these provinces excel among all the
number and surpass the others in these services.

580. In this village of Chiapa grows the tree which gives the
excellent laxative known as royal tamarinds. They have many varie-
ties of excellent bananas, large gardens or plantations of pineapples,
quantities of delicious fruit, jocotes (which are the plums of the
Indies), excellent poultry, as in all those regions, game, deer, pigeons,
doves, quail, and other game birds. This Province of Chiapas is
bounded on the S. by the Province of Soconusco.

581. The Province and State of Soconusco comes within the
district of this Diocese. It lies on the Pacific coast and is highly
productive of cacao; it has a very hot climate. Every year many
caravans of mules come here from New Spain, Mexico City, and
Puebla, with flour and other native and Spanish products, to load
cacao. This province is more than 4o leagues square. It begins, as

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 207

one comes from Mexico City, 7 leagues from the Rio de Ayutla,
which is in the western part of this province. It contains many Indian
villages, all of them with large plantations or milpas of cacao groves.
They gather annatto, vanilla, and other fragrant and wholesome
fruits and flowers which they put into the chocolate. There is one
settlement of Spaniards in this province, named Gueguetlan, which
was established by Commander Don Pedro de Alvarado in the year
1524 when he subdued this province; it is the residence of the
Governor appointed by His Majesty in consultation with the Royal
Council of the Indies, for its satisfactory administration.

582. The Province of the Zendales borders on that of Chiapas to
the WNW. It contains 13 Indian villages, has a hot climate and
fertile soil, yielding abundantly corn, wax, honey, wild cochineal ;
the country produces much swine, poultry, turkeys, cacao, quantities
of delicious fruit, and abundance of cotton, from which they weave
much cloth for their own clothing and for sale in other provinces.
It borders on the Province of Lacand6én on one side, and on the
other, on that of the Zoques, toward Yucatan. This province is as
fertile and prolific as the others; they produce much cotton cloth—
guaypiles, petticoats, tilmas (which are their cloaks) and the other
clothes they wear. Spanish traders come to these provinces to export
their products to others, and profit largely by it.

583. The Province of the Quelenes lies ESE. of Chiapas, on the
Guatemala King’s Highway. It contains 25 Indian villages, of which
Copanabastla is the most important; this has a Dominican convent,
whose friars teach them Christian doctrine and administer the Holy
Sacraments; it has a hot climate. On that side it borders on the
Province of Guatemala and that of Soconusco. The Indians all dress
like those in New Spain and Yucatan. Since there are very strange
and remarkable things in these provinces, which will arouse general
surprise, I shall describe them in the following chapters.

CuHapter III

Of the Variety of Curious Animals and Birds To Be Found in the
District of This Diocese.

584. The Rio de Chiapa runs N. and after traversing the Province
of Copanabastla and receiving the waters of many other streams, it
flows into the sea near Tabasco in the Diocese of Yucatan, becoming
an estuary. Inland, it contains animals of the size of large monkeys,
striped like tigers, with very long tails. Ordinarily they live under
water, and when Indians ford the stream, they wind themselves

208 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

around them, fastening their tails around their legs, and drown them ;
but the Indians, knowing the ways of these animals, go forearmed ;
they usually carry machetes—large cleavers—because the country is
wooded and full of brush, and when these creatures try to pin their
legs together with their tails, they chop them off with these machetes
and so escape from this danger. These diabolical simians do not eat
flesh but simply like to make trouble; they have not been seen any-
where else, but they are said to exist among the Peruvian mountains,
far inland.

585. In this country they have another animal, called tacuazin, the
size of a fox; its snout is like a sucking pig’s, and in its belly it has
a pouch in which it carries its young; its tail is naked and very long.
It is a great thief and seizes poultry and other eatables, which it
scents or comes upon.

There is another animal the size of a greyhound, black all over
except for white head and neck; the Indians call it white lion; it is
likewise a great thief and destructive to poultry and whatever it
comes upon.

There is another the size of a rabbit but built like a dormouse;
it bears three or four young, and when it goes out after food, its
young climb up on its back, so as not to get pilfered in their mother’s
absence, and she carries them along. There is another they call
armadillo; it has the form and snout of a small sucking pig, and is
all covered with scales; it is found in all damp hot regions in the
Indies, and is good to eat.

Another animal which lives in this country looks like a dark gray
polecat ; they are very light and slender and climb trees after birds ;
they eat the eggs in the nests; their skins are very good for linings
and muffs.

They have very attractive squirrels of numerous sorts ; they fly from
one tree to another with extraordinary swiftness ; it seems impossible
for them to do this without wings.

586. There are quantities of ferocious tigers, lions, ounces, striped
wildcats, jackals, i.e., wolves, coyotes (the same), skunks striped
black, white, and gray, which smell very bad and the stench lasts a
long time ; mountain cats which are gray with long snouts, hedgehogs
and other hogs which go in troops and have their navel on their
backbone ; they have their captain and follow him wherever he goes;
he is the lankiest and meanest of the lot; they all obey him and while
he is still alive, they never desert one another, but if he gets killed
they all run away like sheep without a shepherd, until they choose
another to lead and govern them. They have large bears and quan-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 209

tities of ant bears; they have tapirs (dantas) and so many other
species of animals and small creatures that it is impossible to
enumerate them, for they are of many kinds and quite extraordinary.

587. They have varieties of birds different from ours as well as
European kinds—peregrine falcons, falcons, white eagles, lanners,
sparrowhawks, gerfalcons, sakers, merlins, crested hawks, excellent
small falcons of first quality, falcons with one foot webbed and the
other with claws; they go constantly in the water. They have wood-
peckers the size of a thrush, black with red dashes on their heads and
breasts ; these live on acorns, and when it is the season they hollow out
holes in the trees and pines with their bills and they plaster them with
acorns so nicely fitted to the holes that they can hardly be pulled out,
for them to feed on out of season; their foresight keeps these birds
alive; to eat them, they get them out from the bark of the trees with
their talons, and they keep hammering away and eating the acorns.
They have ravens, pigeons, ringdoves, and many kinds of turtledoves—
large, medium, and tiny, with tufted feathers and smaller than
sparrows.

CHAPTER IV

Of the Varieties of Aromatic Trees and Those of Other Sorts;
the Flowers and Springs and Caves To Be Found in This District
of Chiapas.

588. The liquidambar tree is very tall and handsome; from a
distance its leaves look like pear leaves, but more elaborate, with five
points. These trees generally grow along the banks and shores of
rivers and watercourses, where there is water running, and nowhere
else. These trees have large swellings in which the liquidambar ac-
cumulates ; to get it out, they slash the swellings, and the liquidambar
trickles out, ruddy as gold and very fragrant; from each swelling
they usually get a half-arroba jug full (i.e., 2 gallons.)

589. The tacamajaca tree (balsam poplar) is like a medium-sized
olive tree and the leaves are similar; the gum is produced as is usual
on trees; it comes in white and in gray; its virtues are well known
for headaches and migraines and other affections. They have incense
trees, and another gum which is very fragrant and white as wax;
the copal resin is of the same nature. They have storax trees and
benzoin. The mastic tree is tall and reddish, with frizzly bark; the
virtues and efficacy of mastic are well known. There are also balsam
trees, and another tall tree with thick foliage which produces a very
fragrant pepper which in New Spain they put into chocolate.

T5

210 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

590. There is also the tree known as palo santo, lignum vitae, or
guaiacum, and other trees closely similar to it, from which they make
cups which are greatly esteemed ; water poured into them turns blue,
and is a great help in urinary troubles and other illnesses. There is
another tree in this Province of Chiapas and in Guatemala which
is called the dragon tree. They are as tall as almond trees ; the leaves
are white and the trees themselves of the same color; if one sticks
a knife into it anywhere, it weeps blood, as natural as if it were
human ; from its wood they make toothpicks and they utilize the dry
wood for many other purposes. They have ebony trees, red ebony,
tolu balsam trees, and many others which are highly prized, and a tree
which has a flower like an orange blossom in every respect ; it is good
for the stomach, and so they usually put it into their chocolate.

591. They have groves of tall, thick pine trees, cedars, cypresses,
oaks, walnuts of our Spanish variety and indigenous; the woods are
full of a tree which produces small thick-shelled nuts, and of wild
grapevines. The entire year they have pinks and. carnations, roses,
gilliflowers, violets, white lilies, and all our Spanish flowers—not
only in these regions but in the great majority of the Indies. There
is another tree which produces large flowers like rosebays; they call
it suchil; the flowers are of many different hues, white, red, and
other colors; they are sweet-smelling, with a strong perfume, and
the Indians use them in their festivities, to decorate altars and the
arches they construct. Cabbages once planted never run out; they
grow a trunk like a tree, and reach a great size; they keep producing
shoots which can be detached. And all the other vegetables and garden
truck of Spanish varieties, yield abundantly.

592. There are curious springs a league and a half from the royal
city of Chiapa ; in Cazagualpa there is an excellent spring of delicious
water which gushes out and then falls off, every 6 hours, and it
is over 60 leagues from the sea. There is another spring in Tafixa
which will flow for 3 years although they are dry and no rain has
fallen; and then for the next 3 although they are very wet and much
rain has fallen, it stops flowing and runs dry. There is another 5
leagues from the city which in summer has plenty of water and in
winter goes dry. Half a league from the Indian village of Cinacatlan
there is a small spring which is good for cauterizing and for the
treatment of other troubles, but which is fatal if one drinks of it.
The Rio Blanco covers with a layer of stone whatever drops into it,
after a while, and the branches of the trees which dip into it, turn
into stone; its water is good to drink and does no harm.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 211

593. There are some caves of remarkable size and extraordinary
character in the valley where the city is built. At the point where
the rivers go underground, at the foot of a high mountain, there is
one cave which will hold more than 200 men; and where one of these
rivers originates, there is another which will hold over 1,000. There
is another which is entered by a hole in the ground and inside there
is room for 1,000 persons. There is another one which from the
entrance looks like a large lake. Among the Quelenes, near the
village of San Bartolomé, there is a wide opening like a well; if
one throws a small stone in, it makes a loud noise and then a blast
like thunder, fearful and awe-inspiring, and the reports can be heard
far away from the cave. There is another near the village of Quiche-
mucelo with a large level expanse inside and at one side it has a
lake of water so transparent and still that the eye is deceived by
it, taking it to be sand. In that same district there are four others
with narrow entrances but so wide inside that two coaches or carts
could go abreast, and one even resembles a forest with signs and
cross paths. Near them in a high, bright location is another with a
very wide mouth, and inside, a sort of altars and places for sacrifice,
with many human bones and skulls, and by the entrance there is a
spring of good clear water.

594, Three leagues from Chiapa there is a very deep recess cutting
into a cliff; it will be over 10 fathoms wide and many parrots and
other birds breed there. In the valley of Comitlan among the Quelenes
there is another very large cavern, the home of other birds which
are so shy that no one has ever found or seen their nests. Two
leagues from this there is another very wide and deep, which is
bathed in sunlight all day long. Nearby is the Rich Ravine (Quebrada
Rica), from which quantities of gold have been taken; there are rich
mines there of silver, iron, tin, lead, copper, and copperas (copper
pyrites?). Near the village of Tapalapa in the Province of the Zoques,
there is another mine, of stuff that looks like amber; and there are
other remarkable things, which I shall describe in the following
chapter.

CHAPTER V

Of the Strange Snakes, Serpents, and Worms To Be Found in
This District.

595. Within the jurisdiction of this Diocese there are many species
of serpents, vipers, and snakes, whose bite is fatal. Some are dark
gray and look like a rotten stick, with four openings at the nostrils;
if they bite any animal, it sweats blood at every joint and dies within

212 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

24 hours. Others are black, and others black with stripes, and long ;
not a living thing they bite, escapes; they do no harm when the
moon is coming to the full, but when it is on the wane, they get ugly.

596. There are others half a vara long with two heads, like a coat
of arms; it is true that its bite is not mortal, but whoever steps on
the fresh trail left by this snake, is a dead man. There are others
which are yellow with black stripes and white spots; whoever is
bitten by them has his flesh drop off in chunks. There are others
as thick as one’s arm and a vara long; whoever is bitten by them,
is lost. Others are long and slender like a spear; whomsoever they
bite, is paralyzed and dies lamenting his wound but unable to utter
a word ; these snakes climb up into the trees and spring down, to bite.

597. There are other slender green snakes with a poisonous bite;
they move in the grass, and their venom is so powerful that once
when a tract was being cleared for planting, one bit a Negro, then a
dog, and then an Indian; the Negro died within 6 hours, the dog
in 24 hours and the Indian in 2 days. Other snakes to be found in
this country are so poisonous that if they are poked with a stick,
the poison climbs the stick and kills the man. If they kill it and
daub themselves with its blood, they do not die, but remain invalids.
There are others such that if they bite a man in the morning, he
vomits blood from his mouth and dies; but if they bite a man in the
afternoon, he does not die but remains an invalid. There are others
which have rattles, and are to be commonly found in many parts of
the Indies; they have as many rattles on their tails as they are years
old ; these are a sort of viper and their bites are fatal.

598. There are others very large and black, which will crush and
eat a deer; they killed one of these more than 20 feet long, and in
its belly they found 31 young, each a palm long, and they started
immediately to wriggle away. The Indians killed them, skinned the
snake and then roasted and ate it. Its neck was a palm and a half
thick.

599. In the Province of the Quelenes on the Guatemala highway
there are two low mountain ridges full of these snakes described
above, to such a degree that the Indians of that district do not dare
pass through them. Near these ridges there are some mountains
with 10 leagues of uninhabited country, and a river running along
them which is full of fish. A considerable number of Indians from
the village of Acatapeque had gone over there to fish; they heard a
loud hissing, and behold, a creature was approaching them and staring
at them with eyes like fire ; frightened, they climbed up into the trees,
and when this animal reached the foot of the trees, they saw it was

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 213

like a snake, with feet about a palm long, and on its back a sort of
wings ; it was about the size of a horse, and moved slowly past ; never
again did the Indians venture to go over into that district, and there
is other testimony to the same effect.

600. On the trees they find what they call wild caterpillars, the
size of a horse bean. The Indians raise them like silkworms, and
when they are big and red, they mash them up into a blood-colored
buttery mess; this they roast, form into lumps and dry in the sun;
it turns yellow, and is excellent for the treatment of tumors and
other troubles. There are other worms in the fields such that if a
horse or a mule is bitten by one, it sheds its hoofs. Another kind
is useful for cauterizing, and a single application suffices to cure
ringworm. There are many others of remarkable qualities ; but, just
as with the animals, trees, and other curiosities, it is quite impossible
to enumerate them, and so in the following chapter I shall discuss
the district of Guatemala.

CHAPTER VI

Of the City of Guatemala and Its District.

601. Eighty leagues ESE. of Chiapa lies the city of Santiago de
Guatemala, built in a fertile, level, and pleasant valley enclosed on
every side by mountain ranges and over 6 leagues in circuit, more
than 3 long and 2 wide. There is a river running N. and S. through
it, and along its banks and shores there are some Indian settlements,
gristmills, gardens, and orchards of native and Spanish fruit trees,
and farms on which they raise wheat, corn, and other cereals, vege-
tables and garden truck. The entire valley in which the city lies, has
a springlike climate the whole year through.

602. Commander Don Pedro de Alvarado explored and subdued
these provinces and in the year 1524 established and colonized the
city of Santiago de Los Caballeros de Guatemala a league from
where it is at present, at the very end of the valley on the slopes
of a high volcano which they call the Water Volcano; there is a nice
Indian village there with a Franciscan convent; they call it the Old
City of Guatemala. Opposite is another very high volcano with two
peaks; from the one on the ESE. it erupts big rivers of fire and
very large white-hot pumice stones; and when it is stormy, rainy
weather, it gets ugly, rumbles and thunders, and pours out larger
rivers of fire, and so great is the light and the illumination it causes
that even though the city is today at a distance of 3 leagues from it,
one can read a book by its light on the darkest of nights, as I proved

214 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

when I was there in the year 1620. From time to time it has done
much harm to the stock and crops of the district; but it is all put
up with and counterbalanced by the excellent nature of the country,
its fertility and good water supply. Earthquakes are frequent be-
cause of these volcanoes, and they have much thunder and lightning
and thunderbolts; where these chiefly occur and are a specialty, is
the whole hot country of the Pacific coast; if it were not for these
visitations, that would be the finest country in the world.

603. On this spot, where the city of Santiago de Guatemala was
originally founded, lies the village above mentioned, which keeps
the name of Old City of Guatemala. Its inhabitants are privileged
Mexican Indians, whose ancestors helped the Commander to conquer
the country. They are catechized and instructed by Franciscan friars.
That country is a bit of Paradise, with many springs and streams
of sweet and crystal-clear water, and with attractive gardens and
orchards of fruit trees, both native and from Spain, yielding fruit
the entire year without interruption ; they have abundance of quinces,
large and small peaches, etc., with excellent artichokes and all sorts
of vegetables and garden stuff the whole year through without a
break, as a result of its fertility, good climate, and uniform
temperature.

604. The city of Guatemala remained for 17 years on this site
of the Old City, from 1524, date of its foundation by the Commander,
Don Pedro de Alvarado, till 1541, when the Commander left on a
campaign against the Indians of the Province of Jalisco in New
Galicia. They had rebelled and revolted; Diego Lopez de Zuniga
had gone up to quell them, and the Commander went to his aid and
assistance. The Indians had fortified themselves in a strong position
on a high cliff by the village of Ezatlan in that province, in rough
country. Many were killed on both sides, and many horses and horse-
men slid down the incline to their death. On this occasion Commander
Don Pedro de Alvarado was halfway up the slope on his horse, and
he saw another horse rolling down from above toward where he was.
Jumping quickly off his horse, he took his stand at one side where
it seemed safe to him; but the incline was so steep that the horse
came rolling down with great impetus, hit a rock and bounced over
to where the Commander was standing, with such force that it dragged
him down with it. That was St. John’s Day of that year 1541. His
men carried him off from there to the village of Ezatlan, where he
died like a good Christian a few days later, universally lamented.

605. The sad news of his death spread the country over and in a
few days reached Guatemala City, which is more than 350 leagues

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 215

from Ezatlan. His wife Dofia Beatriz de la Cueva manifested extreme
grief over the tragic death of her husband, the Commander; she
draped her whole house in black, refused consolation from everyone
who came to condole with her, and kept saying that there was no
greater evil that God could now inflict upon her, and making other
crazy statements, like a woman who had lost her mind. Thereupon
on Our Lady’s Day in September it began to rain steadily in torrents,
and for the 2 days following, as had never been seen in that country ;
and it brought on such a flood that 2 hours after midnight following
the day of St. Nicholas of Tolentino, a wall of water rushed down
from that high volcano, so huge and so furious that it carried great
rocks along with it and devastated almost all the city, in which the
first house was the Commander’s. At the noise of the torrent, Dona
Beatriz de la Cueva got up in fear and trembling and went into the
chapel with her 11 servingmaids, embracing an image which was
there and recommending her soul to God. At that moment the furious
force of the deluge coming down from the volcano struck the chapel
full and drowned them all—a just judgment of God, for if she had
not left her bedchamber where she was sleeping, she would not have
perished, for that room alone was left standing by the flood. Much
else happened on this occasion, as is stated by Gémara on folio 282
and by Antonio de Herrera in his ““Decades”’, where they may be seen.

606. That is the reason why this tall and handsome volcano is
named the Water Volcano. It is shaped like a sugar loaf; the circuit
of its slopes covers more than 12 leagues, with many Indian villages.
It is more than 2 leagues to the top, thickly covered with forests
containing much valuable and highly prized timber, which I cannot
enumerate here. The Indians climb halfway up to make clearings
for their farms and plantations, for the soil is very rich and fertile.
Right after the devastation of the Old City by the flood just described,
those who were left alive at the end of this year of 1541, came back
again and built the city where it is at present, in that same valley
t league from where it was originally founded, at a bend in the
valley, on an excellent site, healthy and with bright skies and whole-
some air. .

CHAPTER VII

Of the City of Santiago de Guatemala, Its Size, Its Convents and
the Other Churches It Contains.

607. The city of Guatemala is built in this valley 10 leagues from
the Pacific, at 14° N. It has a marvelous springlike climate the whole
year through, and is abundantly and cheaply supplied with all

216 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

necessities and luxuries needed for human life. It has over 1,000
Spanish residents, plus many Negro and mulatto slaves and many
service Indians, not counting the numerous transients, this being a
city with active trade with all New Spain and Mexico City and the
local provinces, with Spain, Peru, and Nicaragua; they come here
with silver and merchandise to exchange for cacao, indigo, cochineal,
and other products which this country offers in abundance.

608. It covers the area of a very large and thickly settled city;
the greater part of its houses are well designed and constructed, and
the streets are straight and well laid out; it has a main plaza which
is square in form and attractive. At the ENE. corner stands the
Cathedral, which is very large and capacious, among the finest in the
Indies. The episcopal establishment is on that same corner, and at
the opposite corner, about due S., are the Royal Apartments, which
are very large and spacious. This is where the President lives and
where the Judges of the Circuit Court have their headquarters ; they
are Alcaldes de Corte and usually carry rods of office. Besides its
President, this Circuit Court has five Associate Judges, an Attorney,
two Secretaries, a Relator, and the other officials. The State Prison
is on the same corner.

609. Opposite this corner with the royal establishment, and ap-
proximately on the N. side, is a whole block of arcades of excellent
construction, occupied by the scribes and various shops of merchan-
dise. The other corner, across from the Cathedral, is likewise filled
with well-built arcades, occupied by shops and grocery stores. On
one side of the plaza is a fountain of excellent water which is
patronized by a large part of the residents, although the city is
abundantly supplied with water. Each corner engages two of the
chief streets, so that from one angle of the plaza one sees the con-
vents of the Mercedarians, of Santa Catalina, and of the Jesuits;
from another, the Augustinian convent; from another, the nunnery
of La Concepcion, and the General Hospital of the city.

610. This city has splendid convents: the Dominican is very
sumptuous and well built, with a magnificent and beautifully decorated
church and cloisters; it has very pious and learned friars, but in
consequence of the humility and the great reform in dress and man-
ners which they observe, they do not wear academic costume
(graduan). This is the mother convent for the whole province within
the district of this Circuit Court, although they have convents estab-
lished only in this Diocese of Guatemala, in that of Chiapa, and in
Vera Paz, which latter was given up. In this splendid convent they
give courses in Arts and Theology, which they teach with great care

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 217

and vigilance, as is always the case with this hallowed order; and
connected with it they have a college where they teach the same
sciences and others. But they suffer great inconvenience and diffi-
culties through the fact that Mexico City is almost 300 leagues away
and requires many days’ journey. Accordingly the city desires and
solicits His Majesty to grant them the favor of establishing a
university there; the city offers to provide an adequate income, both
for the reasons stated above and because in that case the young men
of this city and country will have greater facilities for study there ;
many parents cannot afford to maintain their sons in the graduate
schools of Mexico City or elsewhere, on account of the great expense
and distance involved.

611. Near this convent there is another plaza smaller than the
main square, called the Plaza de San Domingo; in it and the neigh-
boring streets are the business and residential center and the chief
activity and traffic of the city, where the traders congregate, both
for the sale of clothing for the Indians and of country produce, and
for the purchase of such commodities for export to the provinces
of all that country.

CHAPTER VIII

Continuing the Description of the Convents and of the Greatness
of This City.

612. The Franciscan convent of this city is remarkable for its
architecture and its size. The church is large and spacious and very
well-adorned with chapels, altars, and decorations; divine service
is celebrated here with great pomp and correctness and godliness for
all the people. It has excellent cloisters and dormitories and many
friars, strict observers of their rule; among them are many highly
educated. They teach Arts and Theology with great care and vigi-
lance, and graduate excellent candidates for teaching positions and
the pulpit. It has a very good infirmary and workshops and a very
large and spacious garden, and an extensive convent meadow which
is all walled in, with two gates. This is also mother convent for the
province and like the others, it is well supported and comfortably off.

613. The convent of the glorious Patriarch and Doctor St. Augus-
tine is modern, for it has only recently been established in this city,
thanks to the virtue, scholarship, and preaching of Fray Gabriel
de Rivera, M.A., a most deserving son of the convent in Mexico
City; besides his great ability, which caused his order to send him
as Prior and Provincial Vicar to found this convent here and such
additional ones as might be possible, his personal charm and _ his

218 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

genial character have endeared him to the city, so that his convent
has prospered and is prospering.

614. The Mercedarian convent is the oldest in this city and one
of the most distinguished. It has an excellent church and sacristy
with rich and expensive ornaments and good dormitories and cloisters,
and they were building others when I was in the city in 1620 and
1621. They celebrate divine service with great particularity and
simplicity, and for that reason it has a large attendance from all
over the city. They have very learned and brilliant ecclesiastics, both
as preachers and teachers; they give courses in Arts, Theology, and
Holy Scripture. It is mother convent for a province reaching into
the Dioceses of Nicaragua and Comayagua in Honduras, where they
have convents, and the Dioceses of Mexico City and of Puebla and
others in New Spain were subject to it, until in the year 1621 they
separated the Province of Mexico from this one, on account of the
distance involved.

615. The Company of Jesus is a modern foundation in this city.
They have chosen a fine large site near the plaza, and with their usual
foresighted procedure are building a splendid church and dormitories
there. They maintain courses in Latin and Arts, like the others, and
for their support have excellent revenues, indigo laboratories, and
sugar mills, like the rest of the convents except the Franciscans,
who live a more abundant life than any of the others without owning
any property.

616. The nunnery of La Concepcion in this city is very fine,
extensive, and well appointed; it occupies a large site and has an
excellent church and home with over I00 nuns, not counting the
servants. It is highly religious and is much attended by the residents
of the city, who entrust to it their daughters and female relatives
who are consecrated to God. The nunnery of Santa Catalina Martir
is a more modern foundation; it occupies a wonderful site on one
of the busiest and most important streets, between the main square
and the Mercedarian convent. It counts over 50 nuns, who, like the
others, are under the rule.

617. The chief hospital of this city, where they care for the indigent
sick, has His Majesty as its patron. It is on the main street, which
runs from the Plaza Mayor to the nunnery of La Concepcion, and
possesses revenues sufficient for the generous care of the poor invalids.
Nearby in the direction of the Cathedral is a college or seminary of
resident students with purple sashes and dark gray gowns; here
they are taught Latin, Arts, Theology, and singing, and take part
in the Cathedral services and choir.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 219

CHAPTER IX

Continuing the Description of the Churches of This City and
Other Factors Contributing to Its Dignity and Embellishment.

618. Besides the Cathedral staff, there are two curates who admin-
ister the Holy Sacraments, since the city is too large and extensive
for the Cathedral clergy alone. There is another parish church, San
Sebastian, with its curate for the administration of the Holy Sacra-
ments to its parishioners, who are the residents of that quarter of
the city toward the village of Jocotenango on the Mexico highway,
and reaching the ward of San Domingo. The church is finely ap-
pointed, with excellent services and attendance of the faithful.

619. At the other limit of the city, opposite the Franciscan convent
on the road to the Old City is the church of Los Remedios, an
excellent building, parish auxiliary to the Cathedral. Besides these,
in all the quarters of the city and in the suburbs where there are
many small Indian villages, there are more than 20 churches and
shrines where Mass is said on Sundays and holy days, confession
heard, and Christian doctrine taught by the friars of the various
convents who have them under their charge.

620. Besides the above-described, there are in this lovely valley
within sight of the city and at a distance varying from 2 leagues
down to $ or % league, more than 20 other Indian villages, in which
Christian doctrine and instruction are likewise under the charge of
the friars. Chief among these is the village of Jocotenango, and a
number of others adjoining it (anejos), which are under the charge
of the friars of the Glorious Patriarch San Domingo; since this
village follows close upon the houses of the city itself, there are
usually three or four friars to be found there. This village is a bit
of Paradise, with many gardens and orchards of fruit trees, both of
Spanish and indigenous sorts, in great abundance, and especially
jocotes, which are the plums of the Indies, and resemble the Michael-
mas plums of Spain, almost the same in color, and a very sweet
and delicious fruit; they dry quantities of them, although they are
to be had for the greater part of the year; there are many varieties
_ of bananas and other kinds of fruit. They plant quantities of corn,
wheat, horse beans, chickpeas, kidney beans, and all other sorts of
cereals, vegetables, and garden truck, both Spanish and native varie-
ties ; they yield abundantly.

621. The Indians of this country and all the district have a very
different system of bathing from what prevails elsewhere. Everyone
makes, or has made, in his house a sort of small furnace which they

220 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

heat with a fire; then the person who is to bathe, strips and washes
himself with hot water or they give him a good scrubbing, and then
he gets into this furnace, which is hot or heated, and he sweats
away there as long as he can stand it; then he comes out, wraps
himself up and gets into bed; in this way if they have tumors
(syphilis) or any other trouble, they sweat it out immediately and
become perfectly well. This method is likewise used by some of the
Spaniards, men and women, and seemed to me very healthful and
beneficial ; I did not see it in any other part of all the Indies I visited.

622. The city has a fine and enjoyable outlook, and on every
quarter one can make pleasant excursions from it, with numerous
Indian villages and pleasure gardens, in which, besides large num-
bers of fruit trees, they grow all sorts of Spanish products; what
with the fertility of the soil, the excellent climate and the fine water,
they grow tall and luxuriant. The trees are all green the whole year
through, laden with flowers, leaves, and fruit, making it all seem
one spring.

CHAPTER X

Continuing the Description of Guatemala, With Its Avenues of
Exit and Its Highways.

623. Besides the above, this city has on every side pleasant and
sightly avenues for excursions, with many Indian villages, orchards,
and gardens full of fruit trees and flowers, thanks to the good climate,
equable the entire year. The village of San Cristobal lies on a height
within view of the city; here one finds all the kinds of fruit men-
tioned, with many capulies (which are like Spanish mazard cherries),
figs, peaches, apples, all in abundance. The view embraces many
other villages of equal attractiveness, both in the valley, on the tops
of those ridges, and on the slopes of the volcano.

624. Near the Old City toward the Fire Volcano there are famous
hot baths, where the city has put up a bathhouse with rooms and
compartments for invalids, since the waters are very health-giving.
At this spot there are large banana plantations and many other fruit
trees, both of Spanish and native sorts, so that everything makes
it appear that God has set the earthly Paradise here.

625. The city is most abundantly and cheaply supplied with every
kind of foodstuffs. A fanega (about 1.6 bushel) of wheat is usually
worth 2 tostones, i.e., 8 reals (one dollar) ; one of chickpeas, 5 reals;
a hen, 1 real; 16 pounds of beef, 1 real; an arroba (25 pounds) of
sugar, 16 reals, and everything else in the same ratio. This district
contains large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches, quantities of horses

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 221,

and mules, and rich sugar mills, for which reason everything is cheap
and abundant. They have many flowers all the year round—pinks,
white lilies, roses, etc.

626. Since this city and valley are so to speak boxed up by ridges
of mourt#ains, there are only three points of egress, arranged like
an equilateral triangle. The exit on the WNW., which is where
the valley starts and is narrowest, is called Apasson; this is the way
out for Chiapa, Oaxaca, Mexico City, and all New Spain. Near
Apasson there are many pine groves, and in their midst on the bank
of a small stream, a water-power sawmill where they turn out much
planking, both for construction in the city and for the crates for the
export of indigo to Mexico City and Spain.

627. On the NE. there is another road leading out; they call it
the Petapa road, from a large Indian village of that name 5 leagues
from the city; here Christian instruction and the administration of
the Holy Sacraments are under the charge of the Dominican friars ;
leaving the city by this road, one has to climb up a steep grade. This
is the road for Puerto Dulce (or Golfo Dulce), the Diocese of
Honduras, Sonsonate, San Salvador, San Miguel, and the Diocese
of Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and as far as Panama. On the SE., which
is where the rivers and streams issue from the valley, one passes
between the two high volcanoes, leaving the Water Volcano to the
left and the Fire Volcano to the right, and sets out for Esquuinte-
pequec and all the Pacific coast, or Costilla, as they call it in that
country. That coast has a very hot climate; it all looks like a bit
of Paradise, full of trees with thick green foliage, and abounding
in flowers ; it is prolific in cacao, corn, of which they get two crops
a year, many kinds of native fruit, oranges, citrons, limes, and
lemons ; there are many trees of valuable and highly prized timber,
and extensive forests with many sorts of handsome birds of different
colors, which flit about singing in the verdure of the trees. In the
rivers there is great variety of delicious fish, in particular tepeme-
chines, which are much esteemed and are better than trout.

628. At 5 leagues from the city, and 1 from Petapa village, is the
village of San Juan de Amatitlan, richly supplied with provisions
and a favorite excursion point. It is a curacy of the Dominican
friars, with many Indians; like Petapa, it will have over 600 Indian
residents ; it has a hot climate. A hot-water brook runs through this
village; it is highly salubrious and originates in a volcano nearby
which they call the Volcano of Amatitlan. This had an eruption in
the year 1623 and laid waste all that district with fire and ashes;

222 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the land yielded no crops and they could not make any indigo; the
land was buried in ashes.

629. Near this village is an important mill and sugar plantations
where they turn out much sugar ; it belonged to Juan Gonzalez Donis,
and is now in the possession of his heirs. This village is* likewise
close to a large lake which is more than 6 leagues in circuit and very
full of fish, especially excellent mojarras, but many alligators live
in it, which are like the crocodiles of the Nile. From the volcanoes
they get quantities of rock sulfur, copperas (copper pyrites?), and
alum.

CHAPTER XI

Continuing the Description of Guatemala and Its District.

630. Within a 5-league district this city has over 60 Indian villages,
called the Corregimiento del Valle. These Indians are for the service
of the city and its residents, and the Corregidor who regulates and
governs them is one of the regular Alcaldes for that year; the oldest
governs for the first 6 months and is called the Corregidor del Valle ;
then the second Alcalde for the other 6 months.

631. The Circuit Court comprises five Dioceses, viz, that of
Guatemala, Chiapas, Verapaz (which was given up and annexed to
that of Guatemala), Comayagua with all its provinces of Honduras
and Nicaragua. On the W., from the farthest bounds of Chiapas
next to Tehuantepec, where it borders on the Circuit Court of
Mexico, up to Costa Rica on the E., which belongs to the Diocese of
Nicaragua, suffragan to Lima—on that side it borders on heathen
Indians and the Province of Veragua in the District Court of
Panama—it is almost 400 leagues long; and in breadth from the
Province of Soconusco, which is on the Pacific Coast, to the port
of Trujillo, over 200 leagues.

682. The Diocese of Guatemala holds very wide jurisdiction from
W. to E. along the sierra, from Huistla in the Corregimiento of
Totonicapa, which is 2 leagues from Acuespalatl (which means river
saurian) in the Diocese of Chiapas and fronting on the Pacific, and
from the farthest bounds of the Province of Zapotitlan or Suchite-
péquez, which borders on the W. on the above-mentioned State of
Soconusco, up to the farthest bounds and villages of the Province
of Chuluteca and town of the Valle de Jerez, where it borders on
the Diocese of Nicaragua, which is to the E. It runs over 160 leagues
E. and W., and its width N. and S. from one sea to the other is
more than 80 leagues, and it contains many provinces and villages ;
in them are three Alcaldias Mayores, where His Majesty appoints
in consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies. These are

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 223

Zapotitlan, also called Los Suchitepéquez, which raises much cacao ;
Sonsonate and the town de La Trinidad, likewise with large yields
of cacao; and the city of San Salvador and its provinces, with many
indigo laboratories, mule ranches, and large crops of cacao.

633. And there are nine Corregimientos where the President of
the Circuit Court of Guatemala appoints, viz: that of the Valle
mentioned above, Totonicapa, Tepantitlan, Atitlan, Quezaltenango,
Casabastran, Esquintepeque, Guazacapan, and Chiquimula de La
Sierra.

634. Since this is the largest city in all these provinces and the
Circuit Court has its seat here, and since these provinces and Dioceses
are so far removed from Mexico City, whose suffragans they are—
and that of Nicaragua is suffragan to that of Lima, which is more
than 600 leagues distant overseas, while it is only 125 leagues from
Guatemala—it is highly important and desirable that the Cathedral
of Guatemala be made Metropolitan, and since the provinces of the
Diocese of Verapaz have been joined to it, that it be given an Arch-
bishop, with the Bishops of the district of the Circuit Court as his
suffragans ; then all that kingdom will be better governed and many
matters will be remedied.

635. The Corregimiento of Totonicapa lies WNW. of Guatemala,
on the Chiapas Diocese boundary. Totonicapa is in the sierra and
has a cold climate. This town and all its district are very rich; they
make quantities of excellent bacon and ham there. In this village
of Totonicapa they gather such an abundance of apples that they
fatten the hogs with them. This Corregimiento includes 4o villages ;
they raise much cotton and weave it up into large amounts of cloth
for the Indians’ clothing. There is raised and gathered in this district
much wax, honey, copal (which is a resin of much medicinal value,
exuded by tall trees like walnut trees) and likewise tacamajaca
(tacamahac gum), which comes from a tall tree with thick foliage.
There is much mechoacan root, which is an excellent laxative; still
better is that from the matalista, which is another root, like a turnip ;
the plant, a vine, and its leaf are like bindweed ; it has a white flower
and black seeds like tiny beads. This province abounds in wheat,
corn, and other cereals, with much fruit and large cattle ranches.

CHAPTER XII

Continuing the Description of the Corregimientos of the District
of the Diocese of Guatemala.

636. The Corregimiento of Tepantitlan is 8 leagues distant from
Totonicapa ; they raise quantities of indigo, which is worth 4 reals

224 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the arroba. They gather much cummin seed, which brings the same
price. They likewise harvest abundance of corn, which sells very
cheap. There is in this district a very sizable lake, which is 5 leagues
long and 3 broad; it is fresh water and they cannot reach bottom.
They get quantities of pejerreyes (fresh-water sardines?), crayfish
(cangrejos), and other fish, in such abundance that they supply fish
for over 150 leagues, although the whole country has plenty of fish.

This Corregimiento has 22 villages under its jurisdiction, 16 in the.

sierra and 6 down on the coast, where they raise quantities of cacao
and other fruit and luxuries.

637. On the farther side of the lake the Corregimiento of Tepan-
titlin borders on that of Santiago de Atitlan; the lake divides them.
This has 20 villages under its jurisdiction; in these they work up
quantities of cloth into escapapules, which are the cloaks of the
Indians. They raise quantities of swine, goats, sheep, and cattle;
they produce silk and get much corn and other cereals and medicinal
fruits, gums, and roots.

638. This Corregimiento borders on the coast with the Alcaldia
Mayor of San Antonio de Los Suchitepéquez, whose incumbent is
appointed by the Council. This district raises quantities of cacao and
has very active trade with Mexico City and all of New Spain; it is
36 leagues from Guatemala.

639. Along the coast this borders on the Corregimiento of
Esquuintepeque in the hot country, 7 leagues from Guatemala. This
region produces much cacao, and its rivers are full of delicious fish,
especially tepemechines, which are much better than trout. This
Corregimiento contains within its district more than 4o indigo labora-
tories, where they prepare and turn out the best indigo that comes
from the Indies. It has 16 Indian villages under its jurisdiction, and
likewise one village of free Negroes and mulattoes. This has its
Town Council with Alcaldes and Regidores (Aldermen) from their
own number for its administration. They are responsible for the
satisfactory government and the tranquillity of the region; when any
Negro slave runs away from his master to join those in the bush
(cimarrones), it is their duty to track him down, and they return
him to his master for a moderate fee given them as compensation
for the care and trouble they take in searching for him and in keeping
the slaves under sure control.

640. Along that same coast toward the E. runs the Corregimiento
of Guazacapan, on the Pacific coast, in hot country. It has large
crops of cacao, among the best harvested in all that country. In its

|

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 225

district it contains more than 60 indigo laboratories producing indigo
dye; they raise much fruit, and in their rivers they get abundance
of delicious fish and crayfish.

641. This is followed on the same coast by the Alcaldia Mayor of
Sonsonate, to which His Majesty appoints in consultation with the
Supreme Council of the Indies. This is hot country, very rich in
cacao; in the villages of its district—Los Izalcos, Naulingo, Caluco,
and others—they gather the greatest amount in all that country; in
fact, within a district of 2 leagues of these cacao plantations or groves,
they harvest 50,000 loads, worth at the very lowest 500,000 ducats.
And since the reputation and the richness of this bean, from which
chocolate is made, are so well known and quite unique in the world,
it will be well for me to explain the method of reckoning by cacaos,
and describe the nature of the tree.

642. A load of cacao contains 3 xiquipiles; each xiquipil consists
of 8,000 cacao beans, making 200 zontles; thus each zontle has 400
cacao beans and each load, 24,000; that is their system of computa-
tion. At the harvest they sell 200 seeds or beans for 1 real or less,
depending on the crop and the circumstances. It is so abundant in
the district of the Diocese of Guatemala that every year this district
takes in over I,500,000 ducats, in the Provinces of Soconusco, Suchite-
péquez, Guazacapan, Sonsonate, Zacatecoluca, and Chiquimula, which
are the chief producers ; the other parts of this jurisdiction are held in
less esteem.

643, The cacao tree is of medium size, like an apple tree; it is of
a delicate constitution, requiring much attention; it will only grow
in the hot country and nowhere else. When they plant it, it is in the
shade of a large tree which is called the cacao mother, to protect
it from the sun and the wind; they have to keep watering it with
care or else it dries out. The leaves are long and broad, about the
distance from the end of one’s thumb to that of the forefinger, and
sharp-pointed, very green and delicate. It is a tree which spon-
taneously gives great satisfaction, for it repays its owner for all the
care he has taken in its cultivation; beans ripen every month the
whole year through. There are two chief crops, one at St. John’s
Day, and the other at All Saints. The fruit grows out from the
stem or trunk and along all the branches in a sort of pointed ears
shaped like large pine cones and looking like overripe cucumbers ;
this divides up into slices (tajadas) like a melon, but more pointed.
The outer skin is hard and almost a finger thick ; some are red, others
_ yellowish, others red and white, still others green. Inside it is very

16

226 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

white ; all the beans or seeds are attached to a core with surrounding
pulp in which the seeds are preserved; this pulp is bittersweet and
very soft. Each ear contains from 25 to 30 beans; they get them
out by sucking out the pulp, or digging them out if there are very
many; then they lay them in the sun for them to get wrinkled and
dried. This is the way they handle the cacao.

CHAPTER XIII

Of the Town of Sonsonate and the Villages of Its District, and
Other Remarkable Things To Be Found There.

644. The town of Santissima Trinidad was established in the
Province of Sonsonate on account of the wealth of cacao to be found
in that province, in the year 1578 and in an attractive and suitable
location; although it has a hot climate, it enjoys bright skies and
healthful breezes; a small stream of excellent water runs close by.
The town contains 200 Spanish residents, besides many Indians
living in its outer wards, and free Negroes and mulattoes, whom
they call navorios. It has an excellent parish church which is not
yet finished, a Dominican convent with a Vicar, and Franciscan and
Mercedarian convents, a hospital, the church of the True Cross, that
of Our Lady of the Pillar and other churches and shrines. There
are some small Indian villages round about the town, which is all
paved. There are many mercantile establishments. His Majesty
appoints an Alcalde Mayor here, in consultation with his Royal
Council of the Indies, and likewise a Treasurer, whose jurisdiction
covers also its port of Acaxutla which is 5 leagues distant; some
ships come here from Peru with cargoes of wine, and load local
products.

645. The town being in the hot country has much wooded and
forest land; there are some sugar mills here and they raise quantities
of rice, balsam, mechoacan, indigo, corn, kidney beans, and other
cereals, many kinds of native and Spanish fruit, medicinal extracts,
fruits and roots, and annatto; there are large cattle ranches. The
district contains many Indian villages, as: Naulingo, Caluco, Los
Izalcos, and others in the hot country and Apaneca and Ataco in
the cold country, where they grow much wheat, quinces, large peaches,
and other Spanish varieties of fruit. Deer in this country have
excellent bezoar stones. A league beyond these villages, at the foot
of the sierra toward Guatemala, and in a plain, lies the village of
Ahuachapan ; all the Indian women in this village are expert in the
manufacture of fine pottery—pitchers, jars, jugs, and other products—

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 227

in red earthenware, made of a very fine clay which they get from
a watercourse running at the foot of the sierra.

646. The town of Sonsonate has many cattle ranches in its district.
All this country is full of groves and woods and seems a bit of
Paradise. In the woods there are many fruit trees and especially
red sapotes, guavas, oranges, lemons, siuties, white sapotes, custard-
apples, bananas, cojiniclules, aguacates, and others, to enumerate
which would lead to infinity ; leguminous trees bearing small beans,
resembling oak trees, but with bigger leaves ; the beans come in large
round pods; when they are ripe the sun’s heat makes them explode
with a loud noise like the report of a gun; each pod contains 12 or 14
beans. There are other small trees producing another excellent laxa-
tive; they call them pifiones (pine nuts). The matalista is another
laxative, and good antidote as well. They raise annatto also. Five
leagues from the town on the San Salvador road there are many
balsam trees, which will be described in their proper place. Guate-
mala lies 36 leagues approximately W. of Sonsonate, and the city
of San Salvador, 12 leagues to its ENE.

647. In the district of this town there is a volcano which has
thrown out much fire and ashes. It is in a mountain range, all along
whose slopes lie many Indian villages. This range is covered with
woods and groves; it is very fertile, and in the clearings they have
made, wheat and corn yield very large crops. The oaks growing on
this sierra bear acorns as large as inkwells and they make inkwells
out of them. They have fine tall cedars, ebony, red ebony, and other
aromatic and valuable timber.
| 648. There are many kinds of animals here: small bears with no
mouth but at the tip of their snout an opening through which they
put out their tongue and suck up the honey they find in hollow trees,
and when that fails them they go to the anthills and when their tongue
is covered with ants, they draw it in, and that is how they live. They
have wolves they call coyotes, quite like Spanish ones but not so
savage; tapirs, stags, tigers, lions, and other animals, and many
varieties of unusual birds.

649. In the woods on this sierra rise many streams of hot water
with various constituents. The Indian women of Ahuachapan put
the clay in this water for the operations of their pottery ; a cochineal-
red creamy substance is deposited on the clay, and they use it to give
a delicate color to their pottery ; it is a kind of Armenian bole, being
valuable for bloody flux and for other troubles.

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

to
do
oO

CHAPTER XIV

Continuing the Description of the Strange Things To Be Found
in the District of the Town of Sonsonate.

650. In these sierras there are springs of very hot water, of dif-
ferent colors; many of the mouths or apertures from which they
flow, seem like openings into Hell, for the hot water spouts out of
them much compressed in space and with loud noises and reports—
some like mill wheels, others like fulling mills, others like bellows, and
like someone snoring, and many other ways; in some places the
water comes out clear, in others roily, in others red, and in others
yellow, according to the location and the minerals through which
it passes. All these springs together form a river which they call
the Hot River (Rio Caliente), which is very healthful for those
who bathe in it; so when I went by there in the year 1621 I profited
by the occasion and bathed in it; and although that spot was some
distance from the source of its waters, it was almost too hot to be
borne.

651. In this same sierra there are other springs or breathing holes
issuing from a cliff which is some 5 varas high and 3 across, and
split in the middle, and from this fissure a great deal of smoke comes
out; when one gets near it, a very awesome sound is to be heard,
and when the weather is boisterous, fearsome noises and thunderclaps
are to be heard all over that neighborhood. This sierra and volcano
are also the source of very pure and delicious springs, which form
a very pleasant and attractive river. Near this is another watercourse
rising in the same sierra, which runs nights, up to 7 or 8 a.m., and
then gives out and is not to be seen again till the following night
at the same hour. There are other extraordinary things which at
first glance would seem physically impossible.

652. There are many health-giving herbs and trees of great virtue,
such as gum mastic, dragon’s blood, gum anime, benzoin; these trees
have thick foliage with rounded tops. As has been stated, on the
Tonala coast in the district of the village of Guayamoco there are
great numbers of balsam poplars; they are tall trees, with bark and
leaves something like white poplars, but handsomer and more attrac-
tive. They bear a fruit or seed like an almond, and inside it has a
liquid ruddy as gold. The balsam wood is very tough and heavy. All
that country where these trees grow, has a hot climate; it is very
sweet-scented and laden with the perfume of this balsam.

653. They get the balsam two different ways. Virgin balsam can
be had only by giving the tree some slashes, from which a liquid

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 229

trickles down ruddy as gold; this is the pure balsam. The Indians
scorch the tree to make the balsam run, and boil the bark, which
makes it come out black; and although they try many schemes to
increase its bulk, like the women innkeepers in Madrid putting water
in the wine, the balsam will not unite with anything of different
nature from its own; in fact, it draws apart immediately and becomes
recognizable and easy to distinguish. The chief crop is from No-
vember and December till May; that is the spring crop; but it flows
the whole year.

654. Captains Pedro de Solorzano and Pedro Ortés de Velasco
made a beginning of the conquest of these provinces, under Com-
mander Don Pedro de Alvarado, but they were given Indian allot-
ments in Chiapas and settled down there. It was Don Juan Vazquez
de Coronado who finally subdued and took possession of them; he
was a noble gentleman of Salamanca, descendant of the royal house
of France ; he pacified the Provinces of Los Izalcos, Caluco, Naulingo,
and other villages, and founded the city of La Trinidad, together with
Capt. Gaspar Arias de Avila, who had aided Don Pedro de Alvarado
in those campaigns.

CHAPTER XV

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of
Guatemala, and of the City of San Salvador and Its Provinces.

655. The city of San Salvador is 12 leagues from the town of
Sonsonate and 45 from Guatemala. It lies in the Province of
Cuzcatlan in an attractive and fertile valley at 13° N. This valley
is traversed by a small river with sweet and crystal-clear water, on
which some gristmills have been built. It has a hot climate with
bright skies and healthful breezes. The city contains over 200 Spanish
residents, but has been going downhill since the great earthquakes ;
many of the citizens live for most of the year on their farms,
ranches, and mills. It has an excellent parish church, in which lies
the body of its sainted Bishop Fray Don Juan Ramirez, who went
out there as a zealous and vigilant shepherd, visiting his Diocese and
looking after his flock of sheep. To give him the recompense of his
labors, God called him and took him to Himself. Thus this city and
church are greatly favored and exalted in having such a great relic
‘as the body of this sainted prelate, which is deposited here as a
treasure from Heaven.

656. This city has an excellent Dominican convent with large
revenues and many indigo laboratories for the support of the friars,

230 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

who in their zeal, virtue, and observance of their rule and constitution,
are worthy imitators of their glorious patriarch. The Franciscan
convent is very strict; there is another convent, of the Mercedarian
Order, which is a modern foundation; there are other churches and
pilgrimage shrines for the comfort and relief of the citizens.

657. On the other side of the river is a small Indian village called
San Jacinto, where the administration of the Holy Sacraments and
the teaching of Christian doctrine and good morals are in the hands
of the Dominican fathers; and there are many other Indian villages
near the city. The city has an Alcalde Mayor appointed by His
Majesty in consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies;
this official has very wide jurisdiction over many provinces and
Indian villages, and in them over 200 laboratories in which they
extract and put up indigo dye, and many ranches where they raise
cattle, horses, and mules.

658. This district begins at the Indian village of Atiquizaya, on
the Guatemala road; this is followed by the village of Santa Ana
and others. In this village of Santa Ana, which is one of the largest
in those provinces, besides a plentiful supply of foodstuffs, they have
an excellent dyewood which colors tawny and blue; they gather much
contrahierba and other drugs and medicinal fruits and roots; there
is also a small tree which produces a very fine gum like benzoin ;
dragon’s blood, mechoacan, and excellent laxative beans are gathered
also. All this country has a hot climate. On this side it borders on
the district of Chiquimula de La Sierra.

659. Beyond the city in the direction of the large Rio de Lempa
lie the Province and Indian villages of Tecoluca, Zacatecoluca, and
others, on the slopes of a tall volcano toward the S. This country
raises large crops of cacao and has many indigo laboratories and
cattle ranches ; trade is very brisk and for that reason many Spaniards
live in the Indian villages and [many] traders travel through to buy
the local products. On the northern slopes of this volcano lie the
Indian villages of Istepeque and Apastepeque, in whose district they
put up large amounts of indigo which ranks with the best manu-
factured in those provinces.

660. Close by the city is a very large lake where they catch quan-
tities of fish, especially mojarras, for the food supply of the residents.
One-fourth league from the city there are famous hot baths, where

invalids bathe and recover their health, for they are very beneficial. -

It is considered certain that these hot baths and other streams of
hot water come from, or pass through, the volcano which is near
the city; in times past this volcano ejected great quantities of fire,
but at the present there is neither eruption nor sign of it.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 231

661. The volcano of Zacatecoluca is very tall; it has two points or
peaks, and is well known by navigators on the Pacific, for from
far out at sea its two peaks look like a cavalry saddle. It neither
erupts nor seems active; in fact it is all well covered with forests
containing many valuable aromatic trees, cedars, ebony, guaiacum,
and others highly prized, as well as many wild animals—tigers, lions,
ounces, many species of monkeys, squirrels, huge royal eagles which
are dark gray and crested and are also to be found on most of the
mountain ranges and volcanoes of that country. At its northern foot
it has five hot springs with famous baths; there is abundance of
sulfur and alum.

662. The district of this city along the Pacific coast contains ex-
tensive meadowlands and plains with much pasturage, everywhere
dotted with indigo laboratories, farms, and cattle and mule ranches,
down to the Rio de Lempa, which separates the territory of this city
of San Salvador from that of the city of San Miguel, although all
of it falls within the district of the Alcalde Mayor. Deer abound and
most of them have excellent bezoar stones in their stomachs, thanks
to medicinal plants of great virtues, among which is the contrahierba,
a root growing underground like galangal roots. There is much fruit:
wild grapes, some small and black, like Rota grapes, and others very
large and red, like the vineyard grapes known as jar-bursters; there
are other sorts also. They raise excellent melons, particularly for
Lent; quinces, pomegranates, limes, sweet and sour oranges, and
other delicious native fruits.

CHAPTER XVI

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Guatemala, and of
the City of San Miguel and the Town of Chuluteca.

663. The Rio de Lempa, which flows into the Pacific, separates
the territory of the city of San Salvador, 16 leagues away, from
that of the city of San Miguel, which is 14 leagues from the river.
At the halfway point of 7 leagues is the Indian village of Ereguaiquin,
with a few Spanish residents running indigo laboratories ; Franciscan
friars oversee religious instruction in this village. Seven leagues
farther is the city of San Miguel, 30 leagues distant from San
Salvador and over 70 from Guatemala. It contains within its district
more than 80 Indian villages, though most of them are small, and
many indigo laboratories and cattle ranches. The city will have a
little over 100 Spanish residents, though most of them usually live
on their farms and ranches or at their laboratories, and only 40 or

232 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

50 live in the city itself. The houses are all built of straw and
bajareque, which is wattlework of poles driven into the ground and
plastered with clay to form walls. There is a parish church and two
convents, Franciscan and Mercedarian. The city and all the country
round have a hot climate; there is much woods and pastureland.
Native fruits abound—bananas, papaws, jocotes, which correspond
to plums; they get two crops of corn each year; most of the Indian
villages have cacao plantations and they get much honey and wax
in the woods.

664. Three leagues N. of this city there are rich deposits of very
fine silver ore mixed with gold; on this location they discovered
and are working rich mines which are called Marcilla because a man
of that name made the discovery and settlement. They have taken
large amounts of silver from this mine and would get much more if
there were labor or slaves available, for the mines are rich and have
a high yield per quintal. However, the little that the operators can
get out of the mines is of small significance for their luxurious mode
of life, for they are very rich. The locality where the mines are is
very suitable and gives evidence of wealth. The climate is springlike,
with bright skies and healthful breezes.

665. Nine leagues to the S. of the city of San Miguel is the port
of Amapala on what they call the Bay of Fonseca, a large arm of
the sea running into the land. There is a splendid harbor here and
sometimes ships from Peru come here to load pitch and other local
products. Near the harbor lie some Indian villages with cacao
orchards or plantations ; there is another on an island in the harbor.
These villages all receive religious instruction from Franciscan friars.
This is hot country, with many groves and woods. Travelers for
the Province of Nicaragua usually cross this bay in canoes of the
Indians on the island, thus saving many leagues and much trouble;
I myself, taking advantage of this economy, said Mass for the
Indians of the island on the day of Holy Trinity, 1613, and then
crossed the bay in 24 hours, coming out 5 leagues from the Indian
village of El Viejo in the Province of Nicaragua, which is 3 leagues
from the port of Realejo.

666. The city of San Miguel just mentioned is built on a plain
near the slopes of a tall volcano to its ESE.; this volcano is likewise
well known to all navigators on the Pacific. It has erupted, and
erupts, much flame and ashes; it is very handsome from a distance
for its size and its sugar-loaf appearance, though the top has been
considerably worn away by fire. Round about it are many Indian
villages and indigo laboratories ; wax, honey, and all sorts of native

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 233

fruit are abundant ; there are great numbers of deer, rabbits, turkeys,
and pheasants, and on the slopes of the volcano, royal eagles, tigers,
lions, bears, tapirs, ounces, monkeys, squirrels, and many other kinds
of animals.

667. Thirty-six leagues beyond the city of San Miguel is the town
of Jerez de la Frontera, lying in the Choluteca Valley; this will
count some 60 Spanish residents, though the majority live most of
the year on their farms, and usually not over 30 in the town itself.
It has a parish church and a Mercedarian convent. In its district
and province it contains some Indian villages ; it is a country of large
cattle and mule ranches, with a few indigo laboratories; they raise
good tobacco in this district. This town and its district belong ecclesi-
astically to the Diocese of Guatemala, on which it borders ; its farthest
territory to the E. borders on the Diocese of Nicaragua; this will
be 120 leagues from Guatemala. On the temporal side it comes under
the jurisdiction of the Alcaldia Mayor of the mines of Tegucigalpa,
which are in the northern part of the district of the Diocese of Hon-
duras. In this district there are tigers, lions, deer, and many other
kinds of animals and birds, and in its rivers many alligators, excellent
fish, crayfish, and swordfish, which it caused me great surprise to
see in the rivers.

CHAPTER XVII

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of Guate-
mala, and in Especial, of the Corregimientos of Chiquimula and
Casabastran.

668. Returning to Guatemala: the territory which borders on the
N. the district of the Alcaldia Mayor of San Salvador, is the
Province and Corregimiento of Chiquimula de la Sierra, which
contains in its district over 30 Indian villages. It is very rich in
cacao, with large harvests of the best and biggest beans to be found
in the whole district of Guatemala. There are many cattle and mule
ranches in the district ; the country enjoys a lively trade and is fertile
and prolific in corn, kidney beans, and other cereals, with many kinds
of native fruit and medicinal extracts and roots. Many Spaniards
live in Chiquimula, for the country is rich and well supplied with
everything.

669. Bordering on this province and Corregimiento is that of Casa-
bastran, rich cacao country. This province and Corregimiento has
16 Indian villages under its jurisdiction. It lies on the road from
the Golfo Dulce, the chief point of importation into Guatemala of
the commodities which the ships bring from Spain for those provinces,

234 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and where they load native products for export. But the chief port
is that of Amatique, named Santo Thomas de Castilla, as it was
discovered by that great administrator, Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla.
He was Justice of the Circuit Court of Panama for the years 1573,
1574, 1578, and 1579, in which he subdued the fugitive slaves, who
had rebelled and looted and devastated all the province, and had
their headquarters in the Cerro de Cabra; those of the Puerto Bello
faction and of that of Vallano, he brought under control in the year
1582, and settled them in the village of Santiago del Principe. Thus
the entire country was pacified, an achievement of great service to
His Majesty, and for his good services he was promoted to the
Circuit Court of Lima; here he continued this record, thanks to his
foresight and Christian character, and was advanced to be President
at Santiago de Guatemala in the year 1596. As a man of wide
experience in affairs of the Indies, he realized that there was no
suitable harbor; Puerto Caballos was unsatisfactory because of the
disastrous enemy raids there and of its lack of safety for the ships
coming from Spain to those provinces. In the year 1604 he discovered
the harbor of Amatique, and sent Capt. Don Estéban de Alvarado
with distinguished pilots there; they sounded the harbor and found
it deep and ample. So in that same year of 1604, on the day of
St. Thomas Aquinas, they established the port there, and to com-
memorate the Saint and the President, at whose orders it was founded,
they gave the port the name of Santo Thomas de Castilla. For its
greater security he subdued and pacified the Indian tribe of the
Tequeguas ; they were baptized and have been peaceful ever since,
and serve in the port, which is very safe and adequate. From its
entrance to the Morro it is a league long, E. and W., and 14 leagues
across N. and S., all deep and clear, without rocks or shoals except
for a mud bank which would serve as a cushion for any ship resting
on it; this is all due to that farsighted governor. This Corregimiento
of Casabastran borders to the N. on the Alcaldia Mayor of Verapaz.
670. The Province of Verapaz is 50 leagues NE. of Guatemala.
From the time of its-discovery until 1609 it had a Bishop; but in
view of its poverty and for other reasons, His Majesty ordered it
to be annexed to the Diocese of Guatemala. Some of the Bishops
who have presided in that city were unwilling to justify this, in view
of the overwide jurisdiction of this Diocese of Guatemala, such that
it was impossible to make all the episcopal visits and confirmations ;
but finally Bishop Don Fray Juan Zapata accepted the situation and
conformed to it, so that now with full justice this Diocese of Guatemala
may be made an Archbishopric, for the reasons stated in the pre-
ceding chapters and those presented by the city in its petition.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 235

671. This province of Verapaz contains 17 Indian villages, and has
the port of Golfo Dulce within its jurisdiction. His Majesty appoints
an Alcalde Mayor for it, in consultation with the Supreme Council
of the Indies. All this province is under the religious supervision
of the Dominicans. The chief village and the capital is Coban, where
they have a convent. This is all hot country, with many groves and
forests. They raise two crops of corn a year but they cannot hold
much over because the country is so hot and damp. They raise much
cotton and make very fine annatto, the best in all that country ; they
get sarsaparilla, wax and honey from bee trees, other medicinal
extracts and roots, and many kinds of native fruits.

672. Between this diocese and that of Yucatan lie the Provinces of
the Lacandones and those of Manché, which are still to be brought
into our Holy Faith, although Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla, late
President of the Circuit Court of Guatemala, with his farsightedness
and useful energy, converted and baptized 1,400 Manché Indians
in the years 1600-1607; but then the President died, and after 1609
there was no Bishop in the Province of Verapaz, His Majesty having
commanded that the Diocese should lose its independence and be
annexed to the Diocese of Guatemala. With the departure of the
Bishop, conversion of the Indians ceased, and so they are still in
their heathendom. It is a shame that s0 many savage tribes are still
in their blind paganism, in the midst of so many provinces of
Christians ; they could easily be brought to the knowledge of our Holy
Faith and as a result they would be peaceful and well off in conse-
quence of trading with each other, particularly the Provinces of
Yucatan with those of Guatemala and its adjoining territory. In
these Provinces of Verapaz one finds the same birds and animals
as in Guatemala and Chiapas, so I omit reference to them; in the
following chapter I shall treat of various plants and herbs to be
found in the district of Guatemala, and in particular of the jiquilite,
from which indigo is made, of cochineal, and of other plants.

CHAPTER XVIII

Of the Jiquilite from Which Indigo Is Made, and of Other Trees
and Plants.

673. The jiquilite from which indigo dye is made, is a plant whose
leaves and general appearance are quite like clover, but it grows
taller. It is produced in all the hot, damp country of the Indies, but
where it grows in greatest abundance is the district of the Circuit
Court of Guatemala; the main harvest is that made in the district

236 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of the Diocese of Guatemala, where they make the best indigo in
all the Indies; it is also largely raised in the Diocese of Nicaragua.
As has been stated, the plant looks like clover, but it ordinarily grows
as high as a man or taller. The flower is blue and the seeds resemble
those of the radish or turnip.

674. They usually begin working it late in July, before the seeds
ripen, and the operation lasts late into September, and even later if
the crop is very large; that applies also to the wild plant, which
grows in the fields without cultivation. There is another sort of
indigo they call zacamile, which they sow after burning over the
fields, without hoeing or cultivating, just scattering great quantities
of seed on them; they begin working this after finishing the other,
about All Saints, and it lasts till about Christmas, according to the
yield.

675. For the manufacture of indigo dye they have large stone
basins in their laboratories like wine presses; they throw into them
200, 300, or 400 loads of this jiquilite plant, according to the capacity ;
and when the basin is full of the jiquilite plant, the establishment
being generally beside a stream or watercourse or irrigation ditch,
they fill the basin with water and put some timbers or weights on top,
so as to cover the plants entirely with water, as they do with flax
or hemp, and they leave it to soak 24 hours, more or less, according
as the water is hard or soft. When it seems to those who are pre-
paring the dye that the right and proper moment has arrived, they
pull out its bung from the basin so that all that water may come
out and run into another deeper basin next to the steeping basin.
This has a wheel in it, run either by water or horse power, which
keeps beating up the water; this movement of the wheel raises great
quantities of foam, yellow with blue glints. When it seems to those
who are preparing the dye that things have reached the right point,
with the foam breaking up and taking on color, they stop beating it
with the wheel, so as not to overdo it; the water quiets down, the
dye settles, and they pull out another bung in this wheel basin where
the dye is forming; the water runs off and the dye is left on the
bottom like cream. They take it out and put it into sheets of coarse
linen cloth strainers, or melinge, as they call them, and keep it there
till the water has all drained off. Then they make bricks of it and
put them on planks in the sun to cure and dry, and after 4 or 6 days
of sunning, it comes out dry and pure, and they pack it in sacks,
pouches, or boxes. The dye is not all of even quality, as a result
of not catching the right moment; some overstep it, others fall short.
This is the way in which indigo is prepared and manufactured.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 237

676. From 100 loads of this jiquilite plant, each load consisting
of three bundles, they usually get 100 pounds, i.e., a quintal, more
or less according. In this country one of every 20 quintals is paid
as a tithe. As soon as the water from the steeping basin has run off
into the wheel basin, they take out the plants or zacate, from which
the water has withdrawn the virtue, and the harvesters come and
fill it up again; they make two or three trips a day, according to the
quantity of zacate or jiquilite needed. This is the method of manu-
facturing indigo.

677. In this Province of Guatemala they gather quantities of fine
grain or cochineal; this specialty has made, and is making, great
progress, for the country is highly suited to it, as the prickly pear,
on which the insect is raised, grows very well here.

678. In the district of this Diocese of Guatemala there is abundance
of contrahierba, which grows underground, like galangal root. It
has leaves like bindweed, but smaller and slenderer. It is good for
all sorts of troubles ; its virtues are well known for colds, convulsions,
and all sorts of poisoning, as its name and virtues indicate, and has
been demonstrated on many occasions.

CHAPTER XIX

Of Other Trees and Plants Unique in the World, and of the
Method of Preparing and Manufacturing Annatto.

679. In these provinces there is a tree called pataste, which
resembles the cacao tree but is taller, straighter, and more cuplike
in form; its leaf is smaller than the cacao leaf, and rounded. It
likewise bears large pods which look like small melons, with an outer
husk which is tough, scribbled over, as it were, and pockmarked ;
the fruit is inside, much like sweet almonds with an excellent flavor
when they get dry, and then they put them in chocolate; but when
they are green they have an unpleasant smell.

680. In the jurisdiction of this Diocese, along the coast in the hot
country, there are tall trees which bear fruit looking like medium-
sized melons, which they call lacandon. The outer skin is a yellowish
green; the flesh is yellow ; it produces a flower which is grayish and
very fragrant. The leaves of this tree are broad and rounded, very
green and smooth; but the fruit is not wholesome.

681. There is another tree called sunsapote which is tall and has
thick foliage. It bears fruit resembling medium-sized melons, with
grayish-white outer skin; the flesh is yellow and well-flavored; the
stone is full of threads. It has excellent medicinal properties for

238 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

various troubles; when parched, it is good for constipation; when
boiled, for fevers; and it has other virtues.

682. There is another tall and bulky tree called nance, with small
rounded leaves. It bears fruit like jujubes and well flavored; they
come red and yellow. There is a vine which climbs like ivy and
bears very fragrant and medicinally beneficial pods (vaynillas) which
they put in chocolate. There are other low bushes growing on the
cliffs which bear slender whitish pods with great fragrance and
medicinal virtues; they call them mecasuchil, which means thread-
flower, and they put this also into chocolate.

683. The achiote or arnotto tree resembles an apricot tree in size
and leaf, though somewhat taller. It produces a flower like that of
the brambleberry, which develops into a fruit composed of red
granules smaller than hemp seed. When these are ripe and the proper
time has come, they pick them and squeeze and rub them under
water till they come apart and lose their husks; then they boil this
water in large kettles (or of a size suitable to the quantity). As it
boils, they skim off the greasy scum which comes to the top and
put it in another vessel ; then they strain it through cloths or strainers ;
cooling, it comes out like dough; they make bars or cakes out of this,
and cure and dry them in the sun. Annatto is good for urinary
complaints, as a heart stimulant, and for other troubles; for these
reasons and for its color, they put it into chocolate. Much is exported
from these provinces and from New Spain to China, where it sells
very well for dyeing silk and for other purposes. There is another
variety of annatto of a saffron color, which they call achiomico,
which is utilized in stews, and is likewise good for urinary and heart
troubles and other afflictions.

684. There is a root in this country which they call amole (soap-
root), of the shape of a round white potato, and in its foliage like
a radish. The Indians wash their soiled clothes with it, and it serves
as soap for them. It makes much lather and whitens the clothes.
It is a great help to the poor in this country for their laundering ;
it is likewise useful for catching quantities of fish; they pound it
up and throw it into the streams, and it intoxicates the fish and they
take as many as they want.

685. There is another root which looks like parsley root, of a
saffron color, which is put into stews; they make much use of it in
that country. It is good seasoning and has medicinal value.

a -
—

a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 239

CHAPTER XX

Of the Costumes and Customs of the Indians, and of the Indians
Who Were Converted in the Days of Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla,
and of Other Facts about That Country.

686. The Indians of these provinces have the same customs and
dress as those of New Spain and Yucatan, but with certain differ-
ences. The mountaineers wear ample trousers, undershirts, and the
escapapul, which serves them as a cloak ; it is a woolen blanket, which
they wear fastened over the left shoulder and under the right. The
Indians of some provinces of these tribes wear cues, as friars do
the tonsure. The Indians of the hot country wear tilmas—white,
yellow, or striped in different colors—of cotton, or of linen in some
cases; these are the same as the escapapules of the highlanders, and
serve them as cloaks. The most important Indians wear ojotas, which
are a kind of sandals, for protection against stones and thorns.

687. During the 13 years that Dr. Criado de Castilla governed
these provinces, among other great things he accomplished through
his remarkable foresight and executive ability for the Christianization
and instruction of the Indians, was his subjugation of several provinces
of them and his conversion of them to the Faith. Among these were
part of the Province of Manché and of the Xicaque Indians of Costa
Rica, and the Tequeguas and Montafieses of Nicaragua. In this he
was greatly aided by his son Don Andrés Criado de Castilla, Knight
of the Order of Santiago, who was Captain General of those prov-
inces, and is at present Gentleman of the Household (Gentilhombre
de la Boca) of the Infante Cardinal and Governor of Mérida; he
converted them more by good example and management than by
force of arms.

688. The Indians are all naturally impassive, and at the same time
ingenious ; they learn easily whatever they see the Spaniards do, and
whatever handicraft exercises skill. The majority are good singers
and expert with all sorts of musical instruments—flageolets, flutes,
sackbuts, bassoons, cornets, and organs which they make out of
numerous reeds very cleverly and ingeniously joined together ; these
they use to celebrate divine service with greater solemnity. All the
chiefs and leading Indians enter their sons for the service of divine
worship, which they greatly appreciate and honor.

689. In all Indian villages throughout the Indies, both in New
Spain, Honduras, Nicaragua, the New Kingdom of Granada, and
Peru, no matter how small the villages may be, they have distinguished
cantors and choirmasters, who officiate with great seriousness and

240 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

piety at the Mass; they sing vespers to organ music, and celebrate
saints’ days much better than Spaniards do. Every day they repair
with as much exactitude as if they were monks or canons, to their
choir in the church to repeat the office of Our Lady, and they never
fail to do this every day with great solicitude and devotion.

690. They are very active and ingenious in the decoratien of their
churches, for which they use many flowers and unusual ornaments ;
in this they much excel us and leave us far behind their good example.
They show great charity to those in need, and particularly to their
priests, whom they respect and reverence as ministers of Christ.
Most of them embrace the truths of our Holy Faith with such fervor
that only the bad example we set them is responsible for the fact that
there are no great saints among them; I convinced myself of this
while I was in those kingdoms. When the priest arrives at their
villages, they receive him with music and celebrations, with flower
arches and the ringing of bells. The Indian women come out with
their children in their arms for the priest to bestow his benediction
upon them; if it is a religious festival, the leading Indians come
out with bouquets of flowers in their hands and present them to the
friar or priest whom they are receiving; wherever he goes, they
strew rushes and flowers before him—all this for the glory of God.

691. These countries of the Indies are strange in every respect.
When it is the wet season and it usually rains, the traveler can get
up early and do a day’s journey before noon with the certainty that
it will not rain, for in the Indies it is a miracle if it rains mornings ;
but after midday rain is certain; clouds cover the sky in the direction
of the breeze and the heavens open to pour down water without
respite.

CHAPTER XXI

Of the Diocese of Comayagua and the Foundation of the City of
Valladolid.

692. The Province and Diocese of Honduras lies 100 leagues to
the ENE. of the city of Guatemala. It was conquered by Capt. Alonso
de Caceres at the instance of Commander Don Pedro de Alvarado in
the year 1526; and in its famous valley of Comayagua, which is
16° N. or more, he founded in that same year the city of Valladolid,
on a level site under bright skies and wholesome breezes ; the Governor
and the Bishop of these provinces have their residence here. The
city has more than 200 Spanish residents, plus the mestiaos, i.e.,
the children of Spaniards and Indian women, and many Negroes,
mulattoes, and Indians of the serving class. It has a Cathedral, which

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 241

originally was in the city and port of Trujillo, up to the year 1558,
when it was transferred to this city. There are two convents here,
a Franciscan and a Mercedarian; a hospital, and other churches and
shrines.

693. The climate of this valley and city is like spring all the year.
It abounds in corn, wheat, kidney beans, and other cereals and vege-
tables, both native and of Spanish sorts. A river runs through this
valley and on its banks there are many ranches of cattle, sheep, hogs,
horses, and mules; they have quantities of fruit of both Spanish
and native varieties. The city has Royal Officials who take turns
going down to the port of Trujillo every year for the clearance of the
ships arriving from Spain for Guatemala and those provinces with
wine and merchandise, to load local products in great quantities. His
Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies,
appoints a Governor and Captain General for the administration of
justice.

694. When the Spaniards took possession of these provinces, they
were first called Las Higueras, because when they came sailing there
they found along the coast quantities of calabashes or gourds (jicaras)
of the calabash tree, which is abundant in those provinces ; and since
they called them higueras (fig trees) in Santo Domingo, they gave
this name to this province; but the only name that has stuck is
Honduras, because all that coast is very deep water (hondable), and
the Spaniards who came out to conquer those provinces found no
bottom on sounding, even when they were close to land, until they
got into port ; once there, they said “Blessed be God, who has brought
us out of those deep waters (honduras), and so that name became
attached to these provinces and persists there.

695. These provinces were thickly peopled with Indians, but their
internecine wars, and those with the Spaniards, destroyed the greater
part of them. The whole country is much broken up with tall moun-
tain ranges; in between them lie fertile and attractive valleys, and
the crystal-clear rivers running through them carry sand with grains
of gold, since there is much there: this is especially true of the Rio
de Guayape, which is near the Olancho Valley and the rich Province
of Tegucigalpa; in the early days they took great wealth of gold out
of this river.

696. The district of this Diocese contains many provinces and
villages of Indians, and cities with Spaniards. That of Gracias a Didés
lies almost west of Valladolid or Comayagua some 30 leagues, mid-
way on the Guatemala highway. It was founded by Capt. Gabriel
de Rojas in the year 1530 on a bluff in a strong position, for warfare

17

242 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

against the natives and to exploit the rich silver and gold mines in
that district, which at present are not worked for lack of labor. The
country is very rough, with grand mountain ranges. This city was
deserted after a few days on account of the Indian wars and the
lack of support given the Spaniards; but later, in the year 1536,
Capt. Gonzalo de Alvarado established it again and it exists today,
with as many as 60 Spanish residents. Trade in this city is based
chiefly on its mule ranches, wheat and other native products, which
they export to adjoining provinces. The Circuit Court now in Guate-
mala was originally in this city.

697. Five leagues from this city, near the village of Copan, there
are some grand buildings from an immemorial past, of which the
memory has been lost for many generations, and all information
about those who created and built them, from their great antiquity.
Among their ruins are things extraordinary and admirable; among
these is a beautiful hall, in the center of which there is a very large
and well-made table in a stone like alabaster; round about it are
seated many well-sculptured figures, with good features and long
beards, decked out in their breastplates and backplates and helmets,
with swords in their belts; with them is another figure in pontifical
vestments and a mitre on his head; the workmanship and the dress
are very strange and altogether different from what prevails in those
regions. Close by this hall run galleries very well built in stone with
tall monolith pillars which remain standing, thanks to their strength.
And for 4 and even more than 6 leagues round about this superb
building there are great quantities of dressed stone, from which it
appears—and these ruins give proof of it—that there was once in
these parts a people of great intelligence, energy, and efficiency, and
great cities, which long lapse of time has obliterated, reducing them
to what our Spaniards found when they discovered them, and what
is visible today. These ruins are very much like those which have
been found in Yucatan, not far from those provinces where they
established the city of Mérida, which today is the capital of that
Diocese and State.

CHAPTER XXII

Continuing the Description of the Diocese, Provinces, and Cities
of Honduras.

698. To the N. of Comayagua some 14 leagues is the city of San
Pedro, near Puerto Caballos, where they used to unload the mer-
chandise coming from Spain for Guatemala and all those provinces ;
it was dismantled in the year 1604 by order of the great Governor

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 243

Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla, President of the Circuit Court of
Guatemala, and transferred to the port of Amatique, to which he
gave the name of Santo Tomas de Castilla; this is where the ships
lie discharging their cargoes and loading native products, and where
the garrison stays which the ships bring along, until they leave to
take on what additional cargo there is at the port of Trujillo.

699. The city of San Jorge de Olancho is 4o leagues ENE. of
Comayagua on the King’s Highway from the city and port of Trujillo.
It is built in a spacious and attractive valley, which is over Io leagues
long, and 2 wide. The city has a little over 40 Spanish residents ;
the houses are all straw-thatched. The church in this city has a
miracle-working image under the appellation of La Purisima Con-
cepcion de Nuestra Sefiora. In this city and in the Indian villages
of its district they work up quantities of very fine henequen; and
the whole region is very rich in gold, all the rivers being gold bearing,
but they get none out for lack of labor. This valley has a rather
large river running down it and watering its meadows, on which
there are some cattle ranches; it has a hot climate. When the Span-
iards explored and subdued it, this valley and its surrounding country
were thickly peopled; now there are few inhabitants, because the
Indians wasted away and died out in the wars which arose between
the Spaniards. It was in this valley that Gil Gonzalez de Avila took
120,000 gold pesos from Capt. Hernando de Soto; it was here that
they killed Capt. Juan de Grijalba and others, and that Capt. Gabriel
de Rojas prevented the entrance of Gonzalo de Sandoval, Captain
under the Marqués del Valle.

700. The city and port of Trujillo are 24 leagues from the valley
and city of San Jorge de Olancho, and 62 from Comayagua. The
harbor is good, although it is a wide bay, but it is sheltered. The
city is built at the water’s edge on a high and prominent bluff ; there
will be over 100 Spanish residents here, besides many Negroes,
mulattoes, and Indians of the service class. It has a parish church,
a Franciscan convent, and a hospital for the care of the indigent sick.
All the houses and churches are thatched with palm leaves; palms
abound in this country. Capt. Francisco de Las Casas began the
work of building this city in the year 1525, at the order of Don
Fernando Cortés; the work was finished and settlers brought in by
the Marqués del Valle himself, when he came down from Mexico
City to these provinces. The Cathedral for these provinces was in
this city up to the year 1558 when it was removed to Comayagua,
where it is at present.

244 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

701. This city and its neighborhood have a hot climate and many
groves and woods with healthful waters, excellent to drink because
flowing over gold ore and sarsaparilla roots; they raise much sarsa-
parilla in this city and region, of the best quality to be found in the
Indies ; every year they load quantities of it on the ships for Spain.
It has many ranches in its district with innumerable cattle, from
which they export quantities of hides every year to Spain on these
ships. Coconut palms abound here, bananas and other indigenous
varieties of fruit, and other medicinal roots and extracts. The city
does a large business and has much commerce on account of the port
and the ships running from Spain to Guatemala, which stop here
going and coming, and ships and frigates ordinarily come here for
cargoes of native products, of which there is great abundance. They
get much wax and honey in the woods. Opposite this city, and
almost within sight, at 8 leagues out to sea, are the islands of Guanajas
and Ruatan, inhabited by Christian Indians and under the jurisdic-
tion of this city. They are very fertile and prolific, producing
quantities of cassava and fish, pouitry, etc.; they are of great service
for the provisioning of the ships. The district of this city is bounded
by large provinces of heathen Indians, wearing clothes, viz, those
of the Provinces of Tegucigalpa and others to the E. of them.

CHAPTER XXIII

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of
Honduras, and in Particular, of the Mines of Tegucigalpa.

702. The rich silver-mining town of Tegucigalpa lies 16 leagues
to the E. of the city of Comayagua. It is built in the midst of great
pine forests ; its climate is springlike the whole year. It has abundance
of wheat, corn, chickpeas, kidney beans, and other kinds of cereals
and fruit, both native and Spanish. The city is bountifully supplied
with cheap and delicious provisions. In its district there are many
farms and ranches of cattle, sheep, hogs, mules, and horses. The
city has over 100 Spanish residents and some Negroes, mulattoes,
and Indians of the service class and those who come to work in the
mines. It has a parish church, a Franciscan convent, a hospital and
other churches and shrines.

703. His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of
the Indies, appoints an Alcalde Mayor for the city; he has under
his jurisdiction 36 Indian villages, small to be sure; 24 are in this
Diocese of Honduras and 12 in the Choluteca district of the Diocese
of Guatemala. These were all organized under Capt. Don Juan de

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 245

Espinosa Pedruja when he was Alcalde Mayor of those mines, by
dint of great efforts and much expenditure of his own money, as
a good servant of His Majesty; all of this I verified with my own
eyes when I was in that country.

704. This country around Tegucigalpa is very rich in silver veins
and ore. Three leagues from the city is the rich Cerro de Santa Lucia,
from which a great amount of silver has been taken; they have four
foundries to smelt the ore. Five leagues across from Santa Lucia,
in the year 1621, through the diligence of this Don Juan de Espinosa,
at that time Alcalde Mayor, another very rich range of silver ore
was discovered and given the name of San Juan; the grade from its
foot to the top is 2 leagues long, full of veins and ore deposits of the
best-quality silver, from 2 to 6 ounces per quintal, and easy to smelt,
work, and get out; and the fact that the surface deposits are so rich
rouses hopes that great wealth will be obtained by following the
veins to the center and core of all the branches. For this reason
this Don Juan de Espinosa has aided the project and has set up
beside it three establishments to prepare and smelt the ore; and if
His Majesty would graciously send this province 200 slaves (as it
is already provided and ordered by his royal warrants that they shall
travel at his expense), for the working of these mines, his royal
20 percent share would greatly increase and the province would be
one of the most prosperous and wealthiest of the Indies, for besides
what is stated above, the whole country is paved with veins and ore
deposits of silver.

705. Eight leagues E. of the town of Tegucigalpa is located the
mining camp of Yuscaran, where there are likewise rich mines and
veins of the best-quality silver; for working and smelting the ore
there are three foundries there. The eastern boundary of this Alcaldia
Mayor with the Diocese of Nicaragua is at the city of Nueva Segovia,
which is in this Diocese of Nicaragua; it is built among great pine
forests, in a very rich gold region. Here they make quantities of tar
or pitch, which is the chief and most important business in this
country ; they transport it to the port of Realejo to be loaded in ships
for Peru. In this district of Tegucigalpa they make quantities of
tar in the pine woods; it is taken to this port of Realejo and that of
Amapala for shipment to Peru. In the pine forests on the edges of
rivers and watercourses are quantities of liquidambar trees; these
are very tall, straight, and handsome, with a resemblance to white
poplars, but the leaves are better looking and more peculiar; each
has five points. As seed or fruit they produce a sort of round rosette
the size of a small filbert, but not smooth. On the trunk of the tree

246 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

there are large swellings; they slash these, the liquid runs out and
from each they get a small jugful of liquidambar, a fluid ruddy as
gold; its efficacy and virtues in the cure of diseases, are very well
known.

706. In the woods they collect much wax and honey from bee
trees; there are other medicinal fruits, roots, and extracts, and the
guaiacum tree, whose virtues are so well known. There is plenty
of game, both feathered, such as turkeys, paujies, pheasants, pigeons,
turtledoves, etc., and four-footed, viz, deer and much else, with
various kinds of monkeys, squirrels, and many other small creatures.

CHAPTER XXIV

Concluding the Description of the Diocese of Honduras.

707. In the district of this diocese there are other settlements and
provinces, but as they are not of much importance, I give no descrip-
tion of them. The rivers and valleys are among the best in the Indies.
The Rio de Ulua has over 20 leagues of attractive borders lined on
both sides with many farms, gardens, and cacao plantations; they
raise abundance of corn and other cereals and vegetables, with
quantities of fruit of both native and Spanish varieties. Within the
limits of this Diocese, along the Nicaraguan boundary, there are
over 50 leagues of thick pine forests where they make all the pitch
exported to the Kingdoms of Peru for their ships and for use in
the jars and jugs in which they keep the wine produced in all the
vineyards of the Peruvian plains and valleys.

708. These Provinces of Honduras were originally governed by
Gov. Francisco de Montejo, gentleman of Salamanca; he accom-
plished much that was noteworthy here in the service of His Majesty,
as is related in detail by the historians of the Indies. Some years
later they were administered by Don Juan Vazquez de Coronado,
likewise a gentleman of Salamanca; he distinguished himself above
others in bringing under control many Indians who had rebelled,
and by his excellent government.

709. Between this Diocese of Honduras and that of Nicaragua,
which is 100 leagues off to the E. along the Atlantic coast, from the
city and port of Trujillo to a point near Puerto Bello, a distance of
over 300 leagues in length and over 4o leagues inland, counting to
the valley of Olancho and the mining region of Tegucigalpa and the
Nicaraguan boundary, there are large provinces and settlements of
heathen Indians who wear clothing, are well behaved and well gov-
erned; this territory is rich in gold and other valuable commodities,

an, ace on tia iia

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 247

and in medicinal gums, fruits, and roots. Among these provinces
is that of Tegucigalpa, large and greatly celebrated and renowned
in that region. Here are many Mexican Indians, about whom there
is a tradition that on account of the wealth of that country, Mote-
zuma used to send down a delegation every year for his tribute in
gold and other valuables ; and when these Mexican ambassadors who
happened at that time to be in these provinces received word of the
arrival of the Spaniards and that they had overthrown their king
and taken the stronghold of Mexico City and all its territory, they
stayed in these provinces after learning this, and have maintained
them in good government and normal growth ever since.

710. Since these provinces have so many inhabitants and such
great wealth, many have desired to subdue them and bring them to
the knowledge of our Holy Faith; but up to the present they have
had little success, for with such an extensive country the strong hand
of His Majesty is required. In the year 1621 Franciscan mission-
aries went in and converted many to the Faith and baptized them;
in fact, they all take kindly to the truths of our Holy Faith. One of
these friars left in order to get various necessities and to secure
aid in the person of immigrants; he told of the excellence of the
soil and the wealth of the country, and the enthusiastic reception they
gave the missionaries who were among them and had converted and
baptized many of them. But other Indians who were of far different
customs and religion, murdered them. It is important that we should
undertake the conquest of these provinces which have such a large
population of Indians who wear clothing, and should settle Spaniards
there, entrusting the task to some important and experienced person
in that country; with the favoring aid which His Majesty is accus-
tomed to give such men, someone will appear to undertake this con-
quest and pacification. Many of the governors of Honduras have
desired to do this, but such a large and important enterprise cannot
be undertaken or carried out without His Majesty’s command and
authority, and without money and other requisites. There are over
300,000 souls in this district of 300 leagues, still heathen ; they could
easily be pacified, and His Majesty and vassals, in addition to bringing
them to the real knowledge of God, would enjoy the profits of those
rich and extensive provinces, and the adjoining ones would be richer
and more tranquil.

[CHAPTER of the Province and New Kingdom of Leon of
Nicaragua. The Province and New Kingdom of Leén of Nicaragua
was discovered by Gil Gonzalez de Avila in the year 1522; he made
a beginning of settlement, and baptized over 30,000 Indians. Later,

248 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Gov. Diego Lopez de Salzedo gave it the name of New Kingdom
of Leon; it lies 134 leagues E. of Guatemala. |

711. This Diocese of Honduras is over 100 leagues in length,
approximately E. and W., along the Atlantic coast from the city
and port of Trujillo and its environs, up to the farthest territory
of Gracias a Dids on the boundary line of the Diocese of Guatemala ;
and it is over 50 leagues broad, from the Atlantic coast down to
the Indian village of Somoto (near Nueva Segovia in the Diocese
of Nicaragua), which lies in the district of the Diocese and State of
Honduras.

CHAPTER XXV

Of the Provinces and New Kingdom of Leén de Nicaragua, and
the City of Granada Which Has Been Built There.

712. The Province and New Kingdom of Leon de Nicaragua was
discovered by Gil Gonzalez de Avila in the year 1522; he made a
beginning of settlement and baptized over 30,000 Indians there.
Later, Gov. Diego Lopez de Salcedo gave it the name of the New
Kingdom of Leon. It lies 134 leagues E. of Guatemala. Pedro Arias
de Avila, Governor of Panama, sent Capt. Francisco Hernandez
de Cordoba to this province to bring it into subjection. In this cam-
paign in the year 1523 he founded the city of Granada on the shore
of its great lake on a level and attractive site, and although the
country has a hot climate, it has bright skies and healthful breezes.
It is 150 leagues from Guatemala.

713. The city contains over 250 Spanish residents, not counting
the Indians of the service class, Negroes, and mulattoes. It has a
parish church, but the Cathedral of this diocese is in the city of Leon.
It has Franciscan, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, a hospital and
other churches and shrines. The Bishop and the Governor of these
provinces reside here. A very good Indian village called Agalteca
adjoins the city, and many others live in the outer wards, with free
Negroes and mulattoes. The city has abundance of inexpensive
foodstuffs, and although wheat cannot be raised here on account of
the hot climate, they bring flour from the city of Cartago in Costa
Rica. They have excellent poultry, beef, veal, abundance of mojarras
and other fish caught in the lake and sold very cheap, much corn,
kidney beans, and other cereals and vegetables, both of native and
Spanish varieties, with many delicious kinds of native fruit and some
Spanish.

714, In its neighborhood there are some sugar mills, farms, and
ranches of cattle and mules, and cacao plantations, which in that
country are a great source of wealth; they have large tobacco crops,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 249

especially in the Province of Chontales. The city enjoys lively trade
and commerce, having two ports; that of the Laguna Grande (Lake
of Nicaragua) to the N. and its outlet is the route by which they
export native products such as indigo, cochineal, tobacco, cordage,
brazilwood, hides, poultry, corn, and other commodities to Cartagena
and Puerto Bello; in return, merchandise and wines are brought to
the city, which is well supplied with them.

715. The other port it possesses is that of Realejo, which is 30
leagues away, on the Pacific coast. Many ships come there from Peru,
to load such native products as are mentioned above, and other
things, like pitch, which they export in quantities, canvas, of which
an excellent quality is manufactured from cotton in this province,
bateas (painted trays; the word also means a flat-bottomed punt),
honey, wax, etc., which are all highly esteemed and valued in Peru.

716. This Diocese is 150 leagues long, approximately E. and W.,
and over 70 leagues across at its widest point. In its district it con-
tains four cities with Spanish residents and two towns, viz, the cities
of Granada, Leon, Nueva Segovia (which is over 30 leagues to the
N.; here they manufacture pitch), and the city of Cartago in Costa
Rica; and the town and port of Realejo and the town of Esparza
on the Costa Rica highway. There are also many provinces and
villages of Indians. There are two Governorships and one Alcaldia
Mayor, filled by His Majesty in consultation with the Supreme
Council of the Indies; these are the posts of Governor of Nicaragua,
Governor of Costa Rica, and Alcalde Mayor of the village and port
of Nicoya, where there are wonderfully hard varieties of timber for
shipbuilding, and yards in which they construct them. This Province
and Diocese has other ports on the Pacific coast besides those men-
tioned above; such are those of San Juan, Zapoapa, and others.

717. In the district of this Diocese and State of Nicaragua, the
President of Guatemala appoints to four Corregimientos, viz, that
of the town and port of Realejo and the Province of El Viejo; that
of Quezalguaque and Sutiaba; that of Monimbo, Masaya and
Managua; and that of Chontales, whose capital is Sebaco. These are
all rich and very profitable, because the country is rich and fertile,
and there is a lively trade and exportation of native products.

CHAPTER XX VI

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Nicaragua and of
Its Provinces and Corregimientos.

718. The town and port of Realejo lies 30 leagues S. of the city
of Granada. It is a famous port, and every year many ships come

250 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

here from Peru with silver and merchandise to load in exchange
the native products, which are numerous and important, as has
already been remarked. The town will count about 100 Spanish
residents, plus the Negroes and mulattoes, free and slaves, who live
there and are in the service of the Spaniards; there are some Indians.
It has a parish church with a curate to administer the Holy Sacra-
ments, and three small convents of recent foundation—Franciscan,
Mercedarian, and Jesuit—and a hospital where they care for the
indigent sick, and other shrines. The town and all that country have
a climate that is invariably hot; there are many groves and woods.
An inlet comes in from the sea right up to the very houses of the
town, navigable for small ships and frigates up to the houses at
high tide.

719. In this town and in the Indian villages of its neighborhood
many kinds of excellent and delicious native fruit are to be found,
such as aguacates of many sorts, sapotes and sapodillas, pineapples,
jocotes (which are their plums), many varieties of guavas, and
among them the matos, which is an excellent fruit and highly prized,
sweet and sour oranges, limes and lemons. They raise quantities of
corn, kidney beans, and other cereals, greens, and vegetables of both
native and Spanish varieties; all the villages of its neighborhood
provide it with abundance of all kinds of fruit and delicacies like
chicken, etc.

720. This town and port contain famous shipyards, and thanks
to the abundance of excellent hardwood, ships are regularly built
in this town and in the Cotiguina yards, which are good also, and
many others in the neighborhood; every year they launch ships built
here, in which they export local products to Peru.

721. The President of Guatemala appoints a Corregidor for this
town, for its good government and for the administration of justice
in the town and in all the Indian villages of its district, which are
numerous and large; such are the Province of El Viejo, 3 leagues
out from the town, where there are 12 villages connected or forming
wards; the village of Chinandega, Chichigalpa, Posoltega, and
others. So this Corregimiento is not only a very agreeable post but
also highly profitable, both for the wide jurisdiction it has and the
number of ships coming to this port, as well as the quantities of
local products to be exported in them.

722. The harbor is good and safe, but it is hot and for that reason
infested with shipworms, which do much damage to the ships. These
are little worms like waterworms which bore into the ship’s timbers ;

.
}

~~,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 251

but these local timbers are so good and strong that for that reason
or because they are bitter, not much harm is done. In these ships they
load the native products referred to, and the most important export is
pitch, because it is so essential for ships and for the Peruvian vine-
yards. In this the dealers make extravagant profits, for a quintal
of pitch brought down (as has been described) from Nueva Segovia,
is usually priced at the port of Realejo at 20 reals, and it sells at
Callao, the port of Lima, for at least 12 pesos and upward, and a
quintal usually gets to be worth 30 reals of 8 and more. Of course
it is true that there is much expense for freight and duties; never-
theless with the low original cost and the extensive consumption
of it in Peru, the trade is very profitable, for it has made many
men rich.

723. This town is abundantly supplied with delicious fish, both
from the sea nearby and much that is caught in the inlet, of all sorts.
They sell excellent poultry cheap, at 1 real each. They serve excellent
veal and fat and well-flavored beef and pork. Nearby is a sugar
mill and they import it also from Peru, with other luxuries like wine,
olives, patas, and other sweets ; and it is well provided with everything
else, but they have to import the flour for their bread, the climate
being too hot and stimulating for wheat. The Royal Officials of this
Province of Nicaragua have a representative here to clear the ships
entering and leaving the port, and collect the royal impost for port
dues.

CHAPTER XX VII

Continuing the Description of the District of This Corregimiento
of the Port of Realejo, and in Especial, of the Village and Province
of El Viejo.

724. The Province and Indian village of El Viejo is 3 leagues
WNW. of Realejo; this is all groves and forests, and among them
some brooks and rivers of sweet and crystal-clear water, and many
different kinds of birds and animals; it is all level country, with cool
and shady groves. Three-fourths of a league before reaching the
village of El Viejo, one passes the village of Chinandega to the right ;
this is abundantly supplied with corn and all sorts of native fruit so
that it seems a bit of Paradise. Franciscan friars have charge of
religious instruction and rites in this village; the Indians are well
taught and good Christians, and deeply devoted to the ceremonies
of divine service. So their church is very painstakingly and success-

252 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

fully decorated, and they have many trained singers with all the
musical instruments for the services and for singing Mass.

725. The Indian village of El Viejo is one of the largest in the
Province of Nicaragua; it is divided up into 11 clans, parties, or
wards. Each ward has its shrine, for them to celebrate there the
feast day of the saint for whom their ward is named. This village
has a Franciscan convent with a Superior and three or four friars,
who instruct the Indians and administer the Holy Sacraments. AI-
though the village has a hot climate, like all the province, it has bright
skies and health-giving breezes ; it is abundantly supplied with poultry,
beef, veal, and many kinds of delicious native fruit.

726. This village has active trade and commerce; there are Span-
iards and traders living among the Indians—in that country they
call them quebrantahuesos (nuisances)—who trade and deal with
the Indians and other Spanish residents of the country. They have
inns, hostelries, or taverns, which serve as a refuge for poor Span-
iards—the chapetones, as they call newcomers; these inns are full
of these transients who ordinarily stay in them while awaiting passage
to Peru whenever ships leave the port of Realejo. And since this
country is so prolific and cheap and well administered, the Governor
or principal cacique and the Alcaldes keep service Indians with con-
stables at these inns, to be at the service of poor Spaniards stopping
there, and go and get their supplies, and Indian women who wait
upon them for weeks and do their cooking, preparing the corn tor-
tillas, which is the ordinary bread of that province; and so they
support themselves at small expense, for with 1 real they can buy
2 arrobas (50 pounds) of beef, dripping fat, and with another real,
2 celemines (pecks) of corn, which will furnish them with bread
for several days, and as for fruit, of which there is great abundance—
aguacates, bananas, sapotes, guavas, sapodillas, oranges, limes—they
can buy them with 8 or 10 cacao beans; and for their cooking the
Indians bring them wood, of which there are quantities in every
direction.

@2¢, All the Indians in this village and province are ladinos (i.e.,
civilized) and dress after the Spanish fashion, with cotton trousers
and jacket, dyed black in this village; in all this province they still
cut up great numbers of deerskins, out of which they make boots
and shoes for their footwear. They have artisans of every handicraft
in this village. The whole produces the effect of a bit of Paradise on
earth, situated as it is among groves composed entirely of fruit trees.
They have planted royal tamarinds in this village; these are trees of
medium height with many small leaves of about the color of a friar’s

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 253

gown; the seeds are contained in pods like those of the vetch or
jicante, but are somewhat larger, like kidney beans; they have a sour
bittersweet taste, and form an excellent, safe laxative. These grow
in the Philippines, and they imported them from there to the port
of Acapulco and to Chiapa de los Indios; while it is an excellent
laxative, it is not to be found in other places, as it thrives only in
hot climates.

728, In this province they have a variety of valuable and highly
prized timber—ebony, brazilwood, cedar, and the giant tree or ceiba,
which grows exceedingly tall and very thick. A little over a league
from this village stands a high volcano, with smoke and some fire
coming from it. They call it the Volcan del Viejo; it is very tall
and overtops its neighbors ; it resembles a sugar loaf in form. Three
leagues from this village is that of Chichigalpa, which has the same
climate; it receives religious instruction from Mercedarian friars,
and 1 league farther on, in the village of Posoltega, is their convent
with a Prefect and two friars, who are engaged in teaching the
Indians. In this village they have plantations of cacao and vanilla,
and they gather much annatto. In this district under the Corregidor
of Realejo there are many cattle ranches, laboratories in which they
make indigo, and sugar plantations. They have wild bamboos that
grow as thick as joists and have a jugful of water in every joint.

729. On the seacoast along the salt-water inlets grow trees called
mangroves, which are tougher, harder, and heavier than iron. They put
out roots by suckers and they hang down; they call them bejucos
(rattans) and they are used as rope and cord; thus all the houses con-
structed with planking in this country have the planks fastened to-
gether with these bejucos. This seems contrary to nature, but it is not,
for either the Creator provided these trees with this characteristic, or
the reason is that they grow in hot, wet places and that also would
cause it, for in this country these bejucos are found on other trees and
hang down from the top of the tree to the ground; in fact this results
in large tracts where a man can hide under them anywhere.

730. There are many deer here, and another wild animal called
lapa (agouti?), like a rabbit but larger; its flesh is excellent and
well-flavored ; the skin is streaked like a tiger’s, with white and gray
blotches. They have various kinds of squirrels and monkeys; there
are some big red ones with beards like men, and others are tiny
marmosets. The copey tree has suckers growing straight up from
the roots it sends out, and so they make excellent spear shafts.

731. This whole Province of El Viejo and that of Posoltega as
far as Sutiaba is full of streams of delicious water, and covered with

254 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLEC1TI10NS VOL. 102

groves and forests, so that it seems a paradise. But from Sutiaba to
Granada there is not one stream the whole way, although the country
is fertile and prolific, with many cattle and mule ranches and indigo
laboratories ; being level country it all seems one forest.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Of the Corregimiento and District of the Village and Province
of Quezalguaque and Sutiaba, and the City of Leon.

732. The Corregimiento of the Province of Quezalguaque adjoins
that of Realejo; it is 7 leagues distant from the port, and 3 from
the village of Posoltega. It has the same climatic conditions, abun-
dance of foodstuffs and general attractiveness as those just men-
tioned; it has streams of beautiful water and many fruit trees, and
also large forests, as in the Province of El Viejo. They raise quan-
tities of corn, kidney beans, and other cereals and vegetables ; there
is abundance of goats and poultry, and much wild game. In this
village and in those of its district they produce much cordage from
the fiber of the maguey or henequen plant; it has abundant supplies
of everything. There are Spaniards living here, engaged in business.
It has other Indian villages in its district, such as Telica and Sutiaba,
which is the largest in its jurisdiction. This is 1 league from the
capital, and the residence of the Corregidor who is appointed by the
President of Guatemala for its good administration and the dis-
pensing of justice. This village of Sutiaba is somewhat cooler than
the others; it has abundance of the same products, and much rope
and cordage is made here. Some Spaniards live here, and business
is brisk because of the abundance of everything and because it is
on the King’s Highway of this province and only a couple of gun-
shots from the new city of Leon. In the district of this Corregimiento
they manufacture some indigo. There is a volcano which is always
active and emitting flame. It rises from a low mountain range, and
throws out such sheets of flame that it looks like a prairie fire raging.

733. The city of Leon, capital of these provinces, seat of the
Cathedral and residence of the Governors, was likewise founded by
Capt. Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba at the direction of Pedro
Arias de Avila, Governor of Castilla del Oro (who resided in
Panama) in the year 1523, on the shores of the smaller lake (Laguna
Menor) 21 leagues from Granada. It lies on a level, pleasant, and
tranquil plain, not far from a lofty volcano which emits quantities
of flame. This Capt. Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba was beheaded
by Gov. Pedro Arias de Avila in the year 1526 in this city of Leon,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 255

quite without reason; he alleged that Hernandez planned to rebel,
for he suspected that he was favorable to Don Fernando Cortés,
Marqués del Valle.

734. This city was originally very wealthy and notable for the
numbers of distinguished citizens; it contained over 500 Spanish
residents. Gov. Pedro Arias married off his daughter, Dofa Maria
de Pefialosa, to Rodrigo de Contreras, a nobleman native of Segovia,
and at his death he left his son-in-law Governor, who already had
two sons, Hernando de Contreras and Pedro de Contreras. At first
he governed in a reasonable and Christian manner; but later he
changed methods and inflicted much injustice on the citizens, de-
priving them of their revenues and estates (encomiendas) and trans-
ferring them to his own account and his sons’. The citizens brought
their protests to the new Circuit Court which had been established
in Guatemala City, after originally sitting in Gracias a Dios. The
Court suspended him because of his misdeeds and delinquencies,
removed him from his post of Governor, and deprived him of the
properties, which he had appropriated in contravention of the new
regulations. So he was forced to go to Spain to plead his cause
before the Supreme Council of the Indies; they approved and con-
firmed the verdict of the Circuit Court, and thus he was divested
and deprived of the governmental post and the properties.

735. When the sons of this Rodrigo de Contreras got news of
their father’s failure in his suit, they suspected likewise that the
Bishop of those provinces, Fray Don Antonio de Valdivieso, had done
them a bad turn in writing against their father; others say however
that the hatred and enmity which Hernando de Contreras felt for
the Bishop, arose because the Bishop had reproved him for certain
immoralities. At this time many of Gonzalo Pizarro’s soldiers had
come there, some deserters and others exiled. Among these was a
certain Juan Bermejo, of a boisterous and insubordinate character.
When he had received word of these matters and of the resentment
felt by the Contreras, he persuaded and incited them to kill the
Bishop and start a general rebellion, since His Majesty had rewarded
them so ill in penalizing them and depriving them of the Indians
whom their grandfather Pedro Arias de Avila had acquired; with
these and other such considerations presented to him, he incited him
and puffed him up, telling him to name himself Prince of that country,
since it belonged to him.

736. In this way he brought many over to his side, without giving
any indication of his purpose to those who were less disaffected ;
and to inaugurate his dreadful project, they went over to the Bishop’s

256 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

residence one Wednesday afternoon, January 26, 1549, day of St.
Polycarp Bishop and Martyr; and while the Bishop was talking
with a Dominican friar and a cleric, he stabbed him several times.
The Bishop fell beside a large earthen jar which stood there; and
while the friar was aiding him to die like a Christian, and was hearing
his confession, they plundered the Bishop’s residence, and the Royal
Treasury, and committed other robberies and outrages in the city.
Meanwhile the friar Padre Fray Alonso was aiding the Bishop to
die like a Christian ; the Bishop was holding a crucifix in his hands ;
and when he asked him to whom he left his church entrusted, he
replied that he left it to the One whom he was holding in his hands ;
He was the bridegroom and would take care of the church; and
having confessed and done acts of contrition, he repeated the credo
and expired in the friar’s arms, in the presence of his grief-stricken
mother.

CHAPTER X XIX

Continuing the Theme of the Preceding Chapter and Describing
the End Met by the Contreras; of the City of Leon, and Other
Matters.

737. After the Bishop’s death they begged permission from the
Contreras to bury him; having secured this, they buried him with
great lamentation and shedding of tears on the part of most of the
citizens. Thereupon the rebels proclaimed liberty throughout the
city, raised an army and threw all that kingdom into confusion;
then they left after committing a thousand crimes, and went to
Panama, where they captured the city and all the treasure which
Licentiate Gasca was conveying to His Majesty; but with their
maladministration they lost it all, and then all perished, as is related
by Zarate of Palencia, Gomara, and Antonio de Herrera, where the
details may be seen.

738. The city of Leon from its beginning had grown in population
and wealth; but after the great sacrilege committed by Contreras
in murdering its prelate, it commenced to feel the displeasure of
Heaven; great plagues and mortal disasters came; wives did not
bear living children, and those who did live, did not thrive. The
neighboring volcano thundered and bellowed, so that there were
several earthquakes and rivers of fire dashed down its sides. All
this intimidated the citizens, as chastisement from Heaven; but they
held out under these afflictions, though continually growing fewer,
until 1605-1606, when the volcano gave such tremendous and awe-
inspiring thunderclaps, with terrific earthquakes, that I was assured

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 257

by trustworthy persons who were present, residents of the city, that
the earth rose in some places a stade (1.85 yards) into the air,
undulating from one side to the other, as if indicating that it could
not abide them. Since they were all much terrified by these threaten-
ing portents, they brought out and held the Holy Sacraments in the
center of the plaza, begging God to show mercy and lay aside His
righteous anger; that they would appease Him by abandoning that
accursed site, where such dreadful murder and sacrilege had been
committed in the violent assassination of His prelate and shepherd.
So in their fear they deserted the city and that location, and settled
down 6 leagues farther on toward the Pacific near the Indian village
of Sutiaba. Here, thanks to the goodness of God, since they had
moved and resettled, their city is growing, and it would appear that
after their abandonment of that spot, Our Lord has shown His
customary clemency.

739. When I was in those provinces the first time, in the year
1613, I went to see the ruins of the city and the residence of the
Bishop, where the blood was said to be still fresh, and there certainly
were splashes of it on the ruined wall at the spot where they mur-
dered him; and this circumstance, together with the sight of the
ruins of the city and its temples prostrate, which were once noble
buildings but had been utilized as material for the construction of
the new city—all this moved me to compassion.

740. The new city of Leon will count 80 Spanish residents. The
Cathedral is here, with some Prebendaries in residence; but the
Bishop usually lives in Granada, 24 leagues away. There is a Merce-
darian convent here. What was observed in the case of this city and
its inhabitants shows what respect should be paid to prelates, of
whom His Divine Majesty said, by the mouth of David, “Touch not
Mine anointed, etc.”; He enjoins respect for them in neither per-
mitting such misdeeds nor in leaving them unpunished; for one
person committed the crime and the whole city paid for it.

741, Almost the same thing happened in Comayagua in Honduras,
where a sainted Franciscan friar, Don Luis de Andrada, was Bishop.
Don Juan Guerra de Ayala, Governor of these provinces, inflicted
a penalty unjustly on a certain honorable personage, and it was the
duty of the church to defend his cause as its own. The Governor
was therefore requested by the Bishop to deliver his prisoner to the
church, from whose custody he had unjustly taken him. He refused
to grant the request, and the fires of his passion ran so high against
the Bishop that the latter was obliged to excommunicate him for
his disobedience. The Governor tried to force the Bishop to absolve

18

258 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

him from the censure and excommunication he had incurred, without
however any proper action on his part and without returning his
prisoner to the church, from which he had forcibly and violently
seized him. And since the Bishop would not absolve him unless he
took these necessary steps, he cut off the Bishop’s income and sealed
the doors of his residence, placing guards there at the same time and
forbidding under heavy penalties that anyone should bring him food
or water, so that necessity should force him to grant absolution ;
and although some priests and good Christians helped their pastor
secretly, by tossing food to him over the walls at unseasonable hours,
nevertheless the sainted prelate suffered in the cause of justice and
of the authority of his church, great trials and actual hunger. Now
the Governor laid false charges against the Bishop, with perjured
witnesses; the case went to the Circuit Court in Guatemala, where
the justice of the Bishop’s cause and his innocence were recognized,
and the Governor was found guilty.

742. The President of the Court at that moment, Conde de la
Gomera, was a near relative of the Governor, and he perverted the
judgment so that it went against the Bishop and in favor of the
Governor. But God seeing that justice had been denied this sainted
prelate, came to her rescue, and began punishing the crimes com-
mitted against him. A pustule appeared on the Governor’s face and
within 6 months a cancer had eaten it away, with a stench such that
no one would stay near him, and so he died in a fit of insanity.
One of his sisters, who attended him and whom I knew personally,
had her face all covered with leprosy. One of the judges who voted
unjustly against the Bishop, hanged himself; another died without
confession, and others after the same fashion. Of the false witnesses
against the Bishop, one was murdered by his own son; another was
dragged by his horse and killed ; another fell dead without confession ;
and all those who committed injustice against the Bishop, came to a
disastrous end. I saw part of this myself, and most of it was told
me authentically by leading residents of Comayagua; and there were
other facts also, which I omit so as not to make this story too long.

743. This event took place in the year 1610. Now although this
sea route to Honduras is one of the best and shortest to the Indies,
let us consider what fate befell the ships coming to those provinces
after this happened: some were lost on the voyage out; others were
plundered by the enemy ; in fact, there has not been a year that failed
to have some calamity, while previously ships went and came unmo-
lested. Righteous are the judgments of God, who chastises those who
treat His ministers ill when they defend His cause. I could bring

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 259

up many other instances to this effect, but these must suffice; let us
describe the remainder of the Diocese of Nicaragua.

CHAPTER XXX

Of the Corregimiento of Monimbo and Villages in Its District,
and of the Corregimiento of Los Chontales.

744, After leaving the city, although the whole province enjoys
the climate described above, there is no stream before the city of
Granada. On the way, at 9 leagues from Leon, is the Indian village
of Nagarote; continuing 4 leagues farther and descending a steep
grade, one reaches the village of Mateare de las Mojarras, which is
built on the shores of the Laguna de Leon. This is called the village
of the mojarras because of the large quantity of these fish which
are caught in the lake; they sell them 18 or 20 for a real; they are
the size of bream. It happened that while I was there in the year
1621, an Indian woman went down to the lake with a jar for some
water ; she was seized by one of those ferocious alligators or caymans
of which the lake is full, and it ate her up, although, as appeared
later, others helped in this task. When the woman failed to return,
her husband suspected the misfortune or calamity which might have
taken place, and went in search of his wife, arriving at the moment
when those fierce creatures finished devouring her. Returning to the
village in grief and anguish at this terrible misfortune, he described
the dreadful event to his relatives, friends, and neighbors; they all
combined to go and take vengeance. They cut up a quarter of beef
into pieces; then, taking chunks of tough wood the thickness of
one’s arm and about # of a vara long, they tied pieces of meat to
them with a rope and cast them out into the lake; and as the fierce
animals were ravenous and excited, they rushed to the bait, and so
they caught many of them; then they killed them, and slashing them
open on the sides, from one they took a leg, from another an arm,
from another a piece of the body, from another the head; and so
this good Francisco (for that was the Indian’s name) put together
the fragments of his deceased wife, taking them out of the stomachs
of those fierce aquatic animals, after killing many of them in revenge
for his wife’s death; and when they had united all the pieces, they
buried her in their church, and held her funeral there and had Mass
said for her ; and it was I who said Mass for her, because I happened
to be staying there. I have described this occurrence because of its
strange and unique character, and to show the ferocity of these
creatures, and the ease with which the Indians capture and kill them.

260 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

745. Five leagues of level country with groves and forests, and
among them a few cattle ranches and indigo laboratories (of both
of which there is a good deal in this province), and one comes to
the Indian village of Managua, built on the shores of the lake. This
village is large and very attractive and well supplied. It is the usual
residence of the Corregidor who is appointed by the President for
these provinces. They work up quantities of cochineal carmine here,
and cordage for shipping. Many Spaniards live here, and in the inns
or taverns there are traders whom they call quebrantahuesos (nui-
sances) or mercachifles (peddlers; lit., one who pares his goods),
because they operate on small capital. They sell the Indians native
and Spanish cloth, hats, knives, and other such notions, and cacao,
which serves them for money ; they barter and exchange commodities
for others. In this village they raise quantities of corn, kidney beans,
and other cereals and vegetables; there is abundance of fish which
they catch in the lake, which empties into the Laguna Grande less
than 100 paces below it, although this lake is over 25 leagues in
circumference. They have many kinds of delicious native fruit in
this village, and although the climate is hot, it is healthy, being on
sandy soil.

746. Four leagues beyond Managua toward the city of Granada,
is the village of Nindiri, with so much fruit and so attractive that
it seems a bit of Paradise. They make quantities of cordage here,
and cotton sailcloth for the Peruvian ships. There is no water in
this village, so they go down for it to a nearby lake which is very
deep; if I were to try to describe it and this district, I should cer-
tainly have to lengthen my pen.

747. About half a league beyond this village comes that of Masaya,
which is one of the largest in this province. It is a very pleasant
spot, with plenty of fruit, corn, and other cereals and vegetables,
although it has no water; in fact, the Indians get water from the
same lake as do those of Nindiri. In this village they make quantities
of cordage and canvas, which is an important business in this country,
and the Corregidores get rich. Near this village rises the volcano
of Masaya which is so famous; although the range in which it lies
is low in comparison with the height of the others, it surpasses them
in volume of flame and smoke which it sends out; there is so much
that when the wind is right, it carries such thick smoke that it appears
a huge thick cloud.

748. One league from Masaya is the village of Monimbo, capital
of this Corregimiento, with the same products as those before; there
are other Indian villages, such as Niquinihomo, Nicaragua de Los

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 261

Indios, and others. Masaya is 5 leagues from Granada; 6 leagues
farther, and 2 from the lake, rises the great voleano of Mombacho,
which has thrown out much flame and ashes, and still does; it is
one of the largest and highest in that country. On its slopes and
in its circuit there are many fruit orchards and pleasure groves and
cacao plantations ; the cacao is the best and largest variety in all those
provinces, all of which belong to the district of this Corregimiento.
All the Corregimientos of this province are under the jurisdiction
of the Governor of Nicaragua, jointly with the Corregidores.

749. The Laguna Grande is over 80 leagues in circumference (and
at Nicaragua de Los Indios it is only 3 leagues distant from the
Pacific, and the land is level; but it empties into the Atlantic).
On the other side of the lake is the Province of Los Chontales, whose
capital is the Indian village of Sebaco, whose Corregidor is appointed
by the President of the Circuit Court of Guatemala. In this province
they plant and gather great quantities of tobacco and other valuable
crops for which these provinces are none the poorer. The Indians
here are the most unsophisticated of all those provinces, to such a
degree that in the other provinces when they want to call someone
an offensive name, they tell him he is a Chontal, which amounts to
saying he is a dumb animal.

CHAPTER XX XI

Of the Provinces of Costa Rica and Its Government, and of the
Alcaldia Mayor of the Port of Nicoya.

750. Before tracing the description of the Provinces of Nicoya,
Costa Rica, and Cartago, which form the remainder of the Diocese
of Nicaragua, it will be well to note in passing the clothing of the
Indians in these provinces. These Indians are quite civilized, and
their clothing and styles are those of the Spaniards; they use cotton
cloth, either white or dyed black; great quantities are manufactured
in this province. The Indian women dress like those in New Spain,
except that on their heads they wear a kind of black cotton hood,
like the cowls of tertiary friars, peaked in front and behind. Most
of the Indian men wear palm-leaf hats.

751. The great majority of the provinces in the Indies, both in
New Spain, the New Kingdom of Granada, and Peru, lie within
the Tropics and about the Equator; thus the days and nights are
equally long, with only slight differences. For the same reason their
climate has little variation and is even in temperature. They are
exceedingly fertile; so there is fruit on the trees the whole year
through ; they get two crops of corn and other cereals.

262 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

752. Leaving the city of Granada for the city of Cartago and the
Provinces of Costa Rica, one comes to the Indian village of Nicaragua
de Los Indios, which has the same climate and fertility as the others.
From this village the route lies E. to the port and village of Nicoya,
which is 45 leagues from Granada on the Costa Rica King’s Highway.
This village and port of Nicoya is provided by His Majesty, in
consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies, with an Alcalde
Mayor for its good government and the administration of justice.
They build many ships here for navigation on the Pacific, having
excellent timber and shipyards for their manufacture.

753. Near here is the port of La Caldera and others, all located
on an arm of the sea running inland between this country and the
Province of Veragua. These export flour and other local products
raised in Costa Rica, to Panama, Realejo, and other points. In Nicoya
they make fine cotton quilts, cloth, and other specialties, of the best
and finest quality produced in all the Indies. Religious instruction
is imparted by Franciscans in this village and those of its province
lying on the island of Chira 8 leagues out to sea from Nicoya, and
in the port of Paro, which lies opposite.

754. Forty leagues E. from: Nicoya are the Provinces of Costa
Rica. On the way lies the town of Esparza y Aranjuez, occupied
and settled by Don Juan Vazquez de Coronado; his descendants are
in possession of his farms and entailed property. Then comes the
Province of Costa Rica, which this Juan Vazquez subdued, establish-
ing in it 20 leagues back from the sea, the city of Cartago in the
year 1574. He explored and subdued other rich provinces, thus
doing His Majesty great service, in addition to having governed the
Provinces of Honduras and Nicaragua. For these services the
Catholic Majesty of King Philip II of glorious memory granted the
title of Adelantado Perpetuo (Commander in Perpetuity) for those
provinces to him and his successors, and they enjoy this and other
great favors today. On his return from Spain with men to finish
up his conquest and pacification of the rich Provinces of Tegucigalpa
and those adjoining, he was caught in a terrible tempest, and drowned
at sea; so the Great Conquest ceased, and since then nothing of
importance has been accomplished ; had he lived, it would all have
been brought into subjection.

755. The city of Cartago has more than 100 Spanish residents, a
parish church and a Franciscan convent. It is the residence of the
Governor of all these provinces; he has the title of Captain General
and is appointed by His Majesty in consultation with the Supreme
Council of the Indies. The country has a springlike climate and is
well provided with excellent foodstuffs. In the district they harvest

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 263

quantities of wheat, corn, and other cereals and vegetables, both
indigenous and of Spanish varieties. They get the best sarsaparilla
in all the Indies, and work up very fine henequen fibre in all colors.
They have many sorts of medicinal fruits, gums, extracts, and roots,
and tobacco; and in all the district of these provinces there are rich
deposits of gold ore, and so gold sand is found in all the streams.
This province is the easternmost of New Spain; it borders on hostile
Indians, and on the Province of Veragua in the district of the Circuit
Court and Diocese of Panama.

756. Near the city of Cartago, another city of Spaniards named
Talamanca was once established; but thanks to the negligence and
bad administration of the Spaniards, the Indians rebelled and laid it
waste, killing many of them; and although since then Governor
Olivera undertook the task of pacification and conquest, he did not
accomplish anything of importance, for he thought more of his own
personal interest than of the well-being of his soldiers and the con-
version of so many souls. So [the Indians, who previously were
tractable] they remain rebellious and in their free estate and idolatry.
The country is very rich in gold and other things of value ; the Indians
are very intelligent and great silversmiths ; hence most of them wear
gold pins (?) and spirals, pendants, and other ornaments of much
value. These Indians border on many other provinces of heathen,
all wealthy, and on the Province of Tegucigalpa, where there are
more than 300,000 Indians, plus women and children, to be converted
to our Holy Faith.

757. Every year many Spaniards traverse this Province of Costa
Rica on their way to those of Veragua and Panama, with mules from
Honduras and Nicaragua, to sell them in Panama for the transport
trade to Puerto Bello. After leaving Costa Rica they have to travel
over 100 leagues through settlements of heathen Indians before
reaching the Province of Veragua, but these heathen come out peace-
fully to guide and serve the Spaniards and barter native products
and fruit with them for axes, knives, and other articles, and are very
faithful and obedient to them; so it would be easy to pacify them.
This must suffice for the district of Costa Rica in the Diocese of
Nicaragua; now we shall deal with the volcanoes to be found in
this region.

CHAPTER XXXII

Of the Active Volcanoes To Be Found in These Provinces and the
Rest of the Indies [and What Causes Them].

758. In this Province of Nicaragua and in much of the Indies
there are many volcanoes which are constantly erupting flame; such

264 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

are the volcano of Mombacho, 6 leagues from the city of Granada;
that of Masaya, which is continually sending forth great sheets of flame
and quantities of very thick, dense smoke; that of old Leon, which
is remarkable for flame and height; that of Telica, on fire all the
time; that of El Viejo, of surpassing height and smoking con-
tinually ; its height makes it a landmark for navigators on the Pacific ;
and many others to be found in the Province of Nicaragua.

759. In the district of the Diocese of Guatemala there are many
others, like that of the city of San Miguel, which is remarkably high
and has ejected much flame and ashes; that of Zacatecoluca, which
is covered with woods and forests, and having two peaks, is a familiar
landmark to navigators ; although it has (not) erupted, its hot springs
and the sulfur which oozes out and is collected on its slopes, indicate
that in its center and bowels it contains a great amount of fire; that
of the city of San Salvador in the Province of Cuzcatlan has cast
out much flame, smoke, and ashes, and though it has ceased doing so,
it does contain much stone sulfur and boiling springs; that of the
town of Sonsonate, which has been famous in that country; that
of San Juan de Amatitlan, which had an eruption in 1622 and did
great damage in all that region to cattle and crops with the fire and
ashes it threw out; and the three of Guatemala City so famous for
their height: the tallest is called the Water Volcano, on account of
the flood it shot forth when it destroyed the first city of Guatemala ;
the other two are connected with it; one of them has thrown out in
the past, and continues to throw out, such quantities of fire and ashes
that at times they have covered all the countryside and risked destroy-
ing the city with the ashes and the great earthquakes it has caused.

760. In New Spain there is the volcano of Puebla de Los Angeles
which is part of the Sierra de Tlaxcala ; although it has thrown out fire
and ashes in the past, and still does, it is always snow-capped ; there are
many others in those kingdoms. Among those of Peru and the
Spanish Main are that of La Grita in the New Kingdom of Granada,
and many others which rise inland. There are many in the district
of Quito, like that of Pichincha and of Tunguragua, whose height
keeps it snow-capped, although it lies under the Equator ; quantities
of smoke and flame issue from it continually; that of Chimborazo,
and others. In Arequipa there is the volcano near the city, which
however has not erupted, and that of Los Ubinas, which had an
eruption in the year 1600 and did great damage with fire and ashes
over all that countryside, leaving it desolate; the ashes fell over 500
leagues away, as far as Nicaragua. In the highlands of Arica there

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 265

are the volcanoes of Atacama and Cosapa, and in Chile that of Villa
Rica and many others in the Cordillera Nevada, which are continually
throwing out flame and smoke; and many others in those broad vast
expanses, which it is impossible to enumerate. There are also those
in the Philippines and the Moluccas; that of Ternate is famous for
the quantities of flame and ashes it has ejected, and still does; all
its slopes are covered with clove trees. And since I have seen all
those mentioned, I will state what views my limited talents have
enabled me to form on this subject, and every reader may judge of
them as he sees best.

CHAPTER XXXIII

Continuing the Subject of Volcanoes: What Are They, and What
Is Their Origin?

761. These volcanoes are in general very lofty mountains ; almost
all have the shape of a sugar loaf, and stand out conspicuous above
the peaks of the highest and steepest mountains of their ranges.
These volcanoes, or most of them, are continually ejecting rivers
of fire, which never stop or end, although they have been burning
so long—since time and eras immemorial—without stopping or ending.

762. Many who have studied and written excellently on this sub-
ject, state that these volcanoes are the result of the existence of
great deposits of sulfur in those localities and regions; as the sulfur
is continually being deposited, the fire always has material to con-
sume; thus these volcanoes are the earth’s breathing holes, through
which the fire issues to find its level, out of the hollows of the earth
into the region of the air.

763. Others maintain that these volcanoes are mouths of Hell,
and that is the general view and opinion of the sainted Doctors of
the Church, and of theologians, that Hell is in the center of the
earth, which is 6,480 leagues in girth or circumference, and the length
of whose diameter in a straight line from one side to the other is
2,0613 leagues. The opinions and views of the best writers on this
subject are such as those expressed by Cortés on folio 22 and by
others. According to this view, the distance from the surface of
this earth where we mortals dwell, at any point of it, down to the
center, where Hell is situated, is 1,030f leagues. Here the unfortunate
souls of the wretches who have been damned, suffer those terrible
tortures of the senses which may be imagined from the statements
and opinions of the Saints and the Doctors of the Church, and are

266 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

indicated in the representations and engravings which the Church
has drawn and made visible for us in pictures and the other descrip-
tions given us by the sainted Doctors of the Church, to the effect
that the larger part of the wretched souls are tortured with natural
material fire which burns and tortures in natural fashion the souls
of the miserable damned, as the instrument or executioner inflicting
divine justice, and that it is the more painful in proportion to the
material.

764, And not only do they suffer pain of sense and touch, in which
every sense is tortured to an intense degree: sight, with the horrible
and frightful appearance of the devils; hearing, with the shrieks and
howlings of the devils and the damned, and that infernal confusion ;
smell, the stench of the sulfur; and that tormenting horror which
would result from such a calamitous place and which would transfuse
everything. What material will there be there? What food can the
fire find? Can there be anything worse smelling than sulfur? On
this subject it is generally stated that sulfur is the material and
stench of Hell, that it will last forever, and that it will feed those
horrible dark flames; of which the Glorious Doctor St. Basil says
in his exposition of Psalm 28, and as is stated by other Saints and
Doctors, that it is fire without light, horrible, dark and shadowy,
from which God has withdrawn light and radiance for greater tor-
ment of the miserable damned souls, just as in the fiery furnace of
Babylon He suspended the fire’s activity, as is evidenced in Chapter
III of Daniel, so that it should not burn or afflict the sainted children
who were ready to suffer for His Holy Name. But since this subject
surpasses all human judgment, may what is hidden and obscured
be left to the Divine and Most Holy Providence who so ordained
and arranged it; for man cannot penetrate or pry into His divine
secrets.

765. The terrible torments of the senses with which the unfor-
tunate souls of the damned are tortured, are increased and augmented
by another still greater evil—that they are forever bereft of the
presence and sight of God. This penalty must take place in the region
most remote and distant from that Heaven empyrean where the
fortunate behold the Divine Essence; and where can that be but in
the center of the earth, where Hell is?

766. To conclude this subject of volcanoes, I would say that their
fire has lasted since immemorial ages, or since God created the world ;
they have been casting forth fire without ceasing, and it would almost
seem that this filthy pumice and ashes that they vomit and throw
out, is endless. It makes no difference that sometimes they erupt

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 267

greater quantities of flame and ashes, and at others die down; for, as
I myself have noted and considered in the case of some where it
happened that they were in eruption and then seemed to have finished
and used up all their material or the sulfur deposits, since they did
not throw out flame as they did usually in the past, it is evident
from other indications that they keep the fire deep within, since
even when the fire seems to have stopped, springs of boiling water
and other manifestations issue forth from such regions, as I observed
in the case of the volcano of the Province of Cuzcatlan. Thus it is
clearly and demonstrably proved that the fire exists ; and even though
the center of the earth is so remote, Divine Providence and Plan
has so ordained and disposed matters that man shall thus be vividly
warned and reminded that in everything he should serve, please, and
praise his Creator. May this account suffice for a superficial dis-
cussion of the subject of volcanoes ; now let us return to Mexico City,
500 leagues NW. of Costa Rica, and then travel 70 leagues from
there to the port of Acapulco, which is the point of departure for
the voyage to the Philippines.

Book VI

Of the District under the Circuit Court of the Philippines Located
in Manila, with the Provinces It Contains and the Remarkable Things
in Them [and the Corregimientos and Alcaldias Mayores to Which
the President Makes Appointments. |

CHAPTER I

Of the Route Followed to the Philippines, and the Island of Luzon
Where the City of Manila Is Located.

767. The famous port of Acapulco is the chief point of embarka-
tion for the Philippine Islands. This is a longer voyage than from
Spain to the Indies. The port is at 17° N.; it has a hot climate,
somewhat unhealthy at times. It contains as many as 70 Spanish
residents, with as many more free mulattoes and Negroes, and slaves
living there. It has a brisk trade in connection with the ships coming
from the Philippines. The Viceroy of Mexico appoints its Alcalde
Mayor for the administration of justice. It contains a Spanish garri-
son and Royal Officials—Paymaster and Treasurer—who collect and
administer the funds of the Royal Patrimony and the dues from the
ships going to and coming from the Philippines. This port belongs
to the district of the Circuit Court and Archbishopric of Mexico.

768. The ships sailing to the Philippines, once out of the harbor
of Acapulco, turn SW. and lose altitude until they reach 12°30’, in
search of breezes. The good season is in November, December, and
January; then they always have a following wind toward the W.,
and follow the sun, with nothing but water and sky to be seen. Then,
after 40 days more or less of navigation, they reach numerous islands
called the Ladrones; there are 16 principal islands and many others
of less importance. These run N. and S., on a line with Japan;
they lie in 12° N. and are called the Ladrones (Thieves’ Islands)
because the natives have thievish tendencies. They come out to meet
the ships they see passing the islands, in boats which are unique and
unlike all others ; boat, mast, and sail are all made of bamboo; there
is only one of these heathen islanders in each, tiller in one hand and
sheet in the other; and these boats are in fact as light as bamboo;
our ships may be under full sail with a good following wind, and
they can sail around them all they please, thanks to their lightness.

268

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 269

They come out to the ships with native fruit, poultry, etc., to trade
for iron, which is what they most highly prize, to use for their
weapons and the tools they use for working their land. They are
such remarkable swimmers that if an iron cannon ball is thrown
down from our ships, they dive after it till they catch it under water ;
but once they have it, they are so apprehensive that it will be taken
from them that they take to their boats and sail off with it.

769. These savages live in a degraded state, never having known
kings or lords, but merely divided up into clans or families; this
is the way they govern themselves, and they maintain peace, except
that at times those of certain islands are apt to make war against
natives of others. These islands are healthy, with a good climate ;
the natives are well-disposed and could easily be converted to our
Holy Faith.

770. Sailing along the same westerly course from these islands,
at less than 200 leagues one comes into the Archipelago, full of islands
almost all of which are inhabited by heathen and Negritos ( Morillos) ;
since they are innumerable and have been described by other writers,
and since my sole purpose is to give an account of what belongs
to the Crown of Castile, I shall only discuss the famous island of
Luzon and those subordinate to it. Eighty leagues after entering
the Archipelago, and having passed various islands mostly to the N.,
one reaches the island of Luzon. This is rich in gold ore, both high
and low grade; it is fertile and very productive of rice, chickpeas,
barley, and other cereals and vegetables, and many kinds of fruit;
it has large cattle ranches with both native and imported cattle.

771. The first to discover these islands was the celebrated Fernando
Magallanes (Magellan) in the year 1520, under orders from the
Crown of Castile on an exploring expedition for the Spice Islands;
but his bravery led to his being killed on the island of Cebu. Later,
they were rediscovered under orders from the Viceroy of New Spain,
Don Luis de Velasco, in the year 1560 by Gen. Miguel Lopez de
Legaspi; he completed the exploration and charting of the island,
which is over 200 leagues in length, but narrow, although in places
its width surpasses 40 leagues. In that same year he established on
this island the city of Manila, at 14° N.

772. The President of the Circuit Court makes appointments to
18 judicial posts; 13 are Alcaldias Mayores: Pampanga, which lies
10 leagues from the city ; Bulacan, 6; La Laguna de Bay, 10; Batan-
gas, 15; Camarines, 100; Pangasinan, 30; Ilocos, 50; Cagayan, 100;
Cebu, 100; Oton, or town of Arévalo, 50; Panay, 50; Leytezamari-
babao, 50; and Caraga, 100. He appoints to five Corregimientos:

270 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Marinduque, which lies 40 leagues from Manila; El Embocadero,
130; Isla de Negros, 60; Mariveles, 7; Calamianes, 60. He makes
many other appointments also to positions both on land and at sea,
and also names many military captains and officers, as is usual in
New Spain.

CHAPTER IT

Of the Famous City of Manila, Capital and Court City of the
Philippine Islands, and of Its Foundation.

773. Considering that the country was excellent and prolific; that
the island was fertile and abundantly provided with many kinds of
supplies, and thickly settled, with large native communities; that it
could develop communications and trade with the Spice Islands,
Great China and adjoining islands, both for their native products
and for valuables like silk; Gen. Miguel Lopez de Legaspi searched
for a suitable location with a good harbor. Having found it at Cavite,
which is the leading one in the Philippines, he established the city
of Manila at the water’s edge, on the banks of a large river named
Pasig which bathes its walls and likewise irrigates and fertilizes its
fields and meadows. The city contains 1,000 Spanish residents, and
occupies an area suitable for a large and thickly settled city. The
houses are all well constructed, built of stone, very luxurious and
imposing. The city is completely surrounded by a good strong wall.
It is the seat of a Circuit Court, with Judges, Attorney, and Presi-
dent, who is Governor and Captain General of all those islands; he
makes appointments in them of Corregidores, Captains and other
officials in both the civil and military establishments.

774, The Mother Church of this city is Metropolitan, with large
and sumptuous buildings. It has an Archbishop and Prebendaries
who are in residence and conduct services. There are famous Do-
minican and Franciscan convents with many friars. The Augustinian
convent, both in respect of its cloisters and dormitories and of its
famous church, can vie with the best in Spain and the Indies. There
is another Augustinian convent in this city, belonging to the Recollect
Friars. The Company of Jesus have an excellent house and a very
rich and elaborately decorated church. There is a very good nunnery
with many nuns, which is called Santa Potenciana; a hospital, in
which they care for the indigent sick; and other churches and pil-
grimage shrines. In the outer wards reside many natives, who are
quite essential for the service needs of the city.

775. And on the other side of the Rio Pasig there is another Triana
(suburb) which is a fine, large settlement of over 3,000 residents,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 271

called Tondo; this is where the Chinese and Sangleyes live, and
helps to make this a very large and well-provided city. These
Sangleyes are in great majority craftsmen of great ability, diligence,
and accuracy in all handicrafts ; and so they set up shop in whatever
line seems to them most in demand and with the best prospects,
and a few days later they start another, no matter how hard the
change may appear, for they are so clever that they shine in whatever
occupation they follow, doing as well as if they had practiced it all
their lives. So this abode of these Chinese craftsmen or Sangleyes
who have come over from Great China to be Christians, is of great
importance for the city, for everything needful is to be found in
this suburb.

776. These Sangleyes wear their hair very long and coiled up on
their heads, and they let their nails grow long ; he who has the longest
is considered the most fashionable ; the same is true of the hair, and
in fact they make these their criterion of happiness. They eat all
their meals with two slender little sticks, very dexterously, without
touching hands to food, no matter what kind it may be; in fact, the
two chopsticks seem like two additional fingers to the hand, from
the ease and dexterity with which they use them for everything.

777. The city has a very hot climate; it is abundantly supplied
with good things at low prices. The bread generally consumed there
is made of rice, that being the chief grain raised on the island. There
are many sugar mills there, and because of that fact and the quantity
of delicious fruit available, there is abundance of excellent candied
fruit and preserves. The city has very active business. There are
Officials of the Royal Patrimony—Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor ;
a Spanish garrison in the city, with its Militia Captain, captains and
other military subalterns and accessories; and excellent galleons for
defense and protection at sea, in the harbors, and along the coast
and the country generally.

CHAPTER III

Continuing the Description of Manila and the Extensive Trade
Carried on There; and of the Other Dioceses on These Islands.

778. This city keeps expanding as a result of the profitable trade
carried on with Great China in silks, chinaware, and other valuable
and unusual specialties which are imported every year from that rich
and powerful kingdom ; from the Moluccas they import spices ; from
Japan, much other merchandise and wheat ; from other islands, pearls
‘and precious stoness diamonds, rubies, amber, and other perfumes
and valuables—all this makes it rich and prosperous.

272 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

779. Their usual bread, as has been remarked, is made out of rice,
and they make wine from it also, though ordinarily wine is made
from the palms whose fruit is the coconut. Since this is a mysterious
tree, indispensable for the natives’ needs, and very surprising, I shall
give this remarkable illustration of its great qualities: It happened
that a ship came into Manila in which both the ship itself and all the
commodities for sale in it, its cables, rigging, sails, masts or uprights,
and the spikes, were all made from this tree; the cargo was all rugs
very ingeniously made out of its bark with much nicety and skill;
the food and water for the crew all came from this tree; and it is
a fact that on the island of Maldivia (Maldives) there is nothing
available for their support except what this tree gives them; they
make their houses out of it. Its fruit, the coconut, has a flavor which
is well known, like that of good filberts; each has inside it a pint
of very sweet and delicious liquid. If the nut is cut open and the
meat and juice removed, they set the shell on the trunk under an
auger hole; it fills with sap, they put various things in it, and it
becomes excellent wine, the usual beverage of that kingdom; they
make vinegar from it, and very good oil with medicinal qualities
from the meat, as well as something resembling milk of almonds, a
sort of honey syrup, and excellent sugar. It certainly is astounding
that from one single tree these natives can make so many different
things, and that it meets and fills all their needs. They also make very
good wine from the honey syrup.

780. The Archbishopric of Manila comprises three suffragan Dio-
ceses ; two in the island itself, viz, that of Nueva Segovia or Cagayan,
and that of Caceres or Camarines; and another on the island of
Cebu, known as the Diocese of Jesus and also by the name of the
island itself. In the district of the Archbishopric and the three
Dioceses there are more than 2,000,000 souls converted to the Faith
and baptized. The districts and chief cities of these Dioceses are
like the city of Manila in climate, fertility, and comfort of living ;
they raise abundance of rice and many kinds of delicious native fruit.

781. The city of Manila, which is built on this island of Luzon
at 14° N., lies between the Kingdoms of Great China, Japan, East
India, and the Moluccas. Its distance from the Kingdom of Great
China and from Japan, which are both to the N., is 250 leagues ;
from the Moluccas, which lie to the S., 400 leagues; and from East
India, to its E., 500 leagues. In the Archipelago there are more than
11,000 islands large and small, inhabited by those blind and heathen
tribes, and the Mohammedans; here the Devil, had spread his nets
and his power through the accursed instrumentality of Mohamme-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 273

danism, whose devotees the Persians had planted and disseminated
it over these islands; in fact, most of the inhabitants of the islands,
diminutive Moors in rites and ceremonies, have maintained this
accursed worship, though some of them have been released and freed
from the power the Devil had over them, through the light of the
Holy Gospel, which has been preached in more than 50 of these
islands. May God in His infinite goodness and mercy, bring them
all to the true knowledge of Him, and take them out of the darkness
in which they are living!

CHAPTER IV

Of Other Islands, in Which Diamonds and Other Precious Stones
Are Produced ; and of the Delicious Fruit Growing in the Philippine
Islands.

782. In all the islands which lie toward India, they find diamonds,
rubies, and other precious stones of the first quality; amber, and
great beds of fine rich pearls. Many of them have abundance of
gold, extracted from their mines and all their rivers; their petty
kings have great treasures of these valuables and set all their happi-
ness in them. I do not enter on the description of them, not wishing
to lengthen out this story, and also because it does not belong in my
account of what comes under the Crown of Castile.

783. In these Philippine Islands there are some kinds of fruit
quite different in every respect from those to be found in the West
Indies. The santor is a fruit of the shape and general appearance
of a peach; it differs in having three or four seeds of the size of
peeled beans. It is a delicious fruit; they make excellent preserves
out of it, and from the core and seeds a marmalade like that made
from quinces.

784, The fruit called nanca grows on a plant resembling an arti-
choke. It has the green color and the shape of a pineapple, but the
divisions are larger. The flesh is yellow; each section contains a
seed surrounded by flesh. In taste it resembles Michaelmas plums,
but more mucilaginous.

785. Bilimbines are a fruit the size of a small olive, divided into
four quarters; each quarter contains a seed. It is yellow in color
and sour in taste. They make a delicious preserve out of it, very
healthful and refreshing. The banquilin fruit is like the bilimbin,
the only difference being that they are smaller; it is a safe and
agreeable laxative.

786. Paos are a fruit altogether like almonds when green, but
larger ; they put them in vinegar and pickle them, and then eat them

19

274 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

like olives. There is another kind of paos which is smaller ; they eat
them when ripe; the skin and the flavor are like damson plums, but
they are juicier ; they have a hard stone.

787. Piles are a fruit growing in clusters larger than pine nuts.
The rind is tough, and the kernel or almond inside is very juicy.
This is a delicious fruit; they make salad oil out of it. There are
many more varieties of bananas and plantains, and pineapples, than
in New Spain and the Spanish Main; they grow much larger and
sweeter to eat.

788. They have royal tamarinds, which are the seeds of a tree;
they come in pods like kidney beans, and are an excellent laxative.
In New Spain they put them up in a syrup to sweeten the dose for
invalids. They have many different kinds of excellent oranges, some
bigger than a man’s head, very good eating; others are red inside
like pomegranates; others are tiny, just about like ours; they have
very smooth, thin skins, and are very sweet. Others are imported
from Great China, tiny yellow ones with skins thin as paper; these
are all good to eat and very refreshing. There are many other kinds
of fruit strange and unusual, and impossible to enumerate.

CHAPTER V

Of the Molucca Islands, Ternate and Tidore and the Others, and
the Unusual Things To Be Found There.

789. The Molucca Spice Islands, Ternate, Tidore, and the rest,
lie 400 leagues from the city of Manila, on the Equator. The island
of Ternate is the most important of the Moluccas, though not the
largest. It.is 10 leagues in circumference, all very mountainous and
heavily forested. In the center a lofty volcano overtops the rest;
sometimes it emits flame, and sometimes smoke. There was a settle-
ment of Persian Moors here, who had their own king, and were
among the most warlike of the tribes on that island. They used to
gather very great quantities of cloves here, this island being the richest
in that spice; but there is none at present, for on account of the
Dutch our men have cut down all the clove trees, although there are
some left on the slopes of the volcano.

790. On this island of Ternate, which was conquered from its
king by Gov. Don Pedro de Acufia, we have established the city of
Rosario and a military force which is entitled that of Ternate, since
that is the chief stronghold and place of arms, where the Governor
and His Majesty’s army have their headquarters. There are two
convents established there, one of Franciscans of the Province of

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 275

the Philippines, and the other of the Religious Company of Portu-
guese India. From this city and fortress of Rosario they send sup-
plies and aid to the others on the island—the forts of St. Peter and
St. Paul, which are on the same island 1 league from Rosario, and
to the fort of Malayo on another, which is the chief place of arms
of the hostile Dutch. The valiant Spaniards, loyal to their king
though few and badly supported, and suffering great trials in their
sore need, fight every day with countless enemies, both Dutch and
Ternate Moors friendly to the Dutch; they win many victories over
them and support themselves on the booty they take from them; for
their supplies from Manila, which is where they have to be sent from,
keep arriving more and more precariously and practically never get
there. Accordingly, since the Spaniards are few in number and
always have to go weapons in hand, they have no chance to farm,
and when their rice or other supplies give out, they take advantage
of a tree called sagumaruco, and make sago flour from the heart
of it and bake it up in little biscuits, and so eat it fresh, and likewise
store it for long periods against their great needs.

791. The fort of St. Peter and St. Paul is like a retirement strong-
hold for the city of Rosario, for it has a very high and strong position.
The island is very fertile and has a good climate though under the
Equator, for Heaven provides it with heavy showers and fresh
breezes, so that it comes to be cooler than Manila, which is 14° away
from the Equator. The trees are always loaded with fruit ; vines yield
abundance of grapes every four months; corn gives large crops and
the stalks grow as high as lances, with many ears; it is the same way
with the other products of the soil, which are very different and
diverse from ours and those in the West Indies.

792. On this island they have wild hogs which are very large and
fierce, and usually range through the thick woods on the slopes of
that lofty volcano; but, large and ferocious as they are, there are
bloodthirsty serpents of extraordinary size, which hang or swing
from a tree where the wild hogs pass, and with their forked tongues
fascinate and paralyze them; and big and fierce animals as these
hogs are, they gobble them up and swallow them as if they were
mazards or cherries in a nice dining room, without the hogs being
able to make any resistance. There are many small animals called
tusas which have a pouch in the abdomen in which they put their
young to run away with them or on expeditions for food; they are
the size of a very small dog. There are many other kinds of unusual
animals.

276 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER VI

Continuing the Description of the Moluccas, and in Especial of
Tidore, and of the Clove Tree and Other Spices.

793. The island of Tidore lies half a league from that of Ternate,
from which it is separated merely by the breadth of the channel
running between these two islands. The King of Tidore and his
vassals are friends of ours and hostile to the people of Ternate and
the Dutch. The island is somewhat larger than that of Ternate. We
have two forts there, one in the city where the king resides, and the
other on the beach, plus other points which we keep fortified with
garrisons of Spaniards and Philippine Indians; these go and serve
His Majesty valiantly, undergoing great trials at the side of the
Spaniards, serving them and helping on all occasions, in order to
get certificates of their services, which is a great honor among them
and highly prized.

794, On this island of Tidore there are quantities of clove trees,
which are those in our possession, but few compared with what the
Dutch have on the islands of Makian and Motiel, which lie under the
Equator and are quite close neighbors of Ternate and Tidore. Motiel
is 4 leagues in circuit; the island of Makian is 3 leagues to the S.
of Motiel, and is 7 leagues in circuit. These are the principal clove
islands held by the Dutch; there are a few trees on others, but of
slight importance. Our supply is on this island of Tidore; the great
bulk come by way of India.

795. The chief place of arms which the Dutch have, is that of
Malayo on Ternate, residence of the Governor they have there, with
plenty of men in their garrison, well provided with arms, supplies,
and munitions. On the same island they have another fortress which
they call Tacome, and they have another on Tidore which they call
Marieco, and others still, all well fortified and supplied with men
and necessities ; but our Spaniards, though fewer and badly off, with
their spirit, valor, and energy keep them at bay; they are always
eager to dash out and fight with the enemy as the best celebration
they can have, so as to have the benefit of the spoils they get and
carry off from them. In fact the mere recital of the deeds of those
few valiant Spaniards, would need a special book.

796. The clove tree is tall and handsome; its bark is like that of
the olive, and its leaf like that of the laurel. Its flowers grow in
clusters, and consequently the cloves which develop out of the flower
are like the similar clusters of the paradise tree or the hawthorn hips.
When the clove emerges from the flower, it is green; when it is a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 277

little larger, white; and when ripe, red; and when the right time
comes, they fall and turn black, the color they have as exported and
when we see them. Every year they bear fruit twice; but the really
heavy crop for export comes every 3 years; this is the big yield, which
they call monson. These clove trees usually grow on the mountain
ranges and heights, where in those regions the clouds cover them
now and then; they neither grow nor bear in plains or valleys; if
there are any there, their fruit is not worth considering.

797. Although cinnamon grows and bears on many islands, the
chief crop comes from the islands of Ceylon and Matier. The cinna-
mon tree is very similar in all respects to the pomegranate, but is much
taller, handsomer, and more graceful. The cinnamon is its bark,
which splits and peels with the intensity of the sun’s rays, and so
they tear it off and put it to cure in the sun. The cinnamon flower
is very fragrant and they distil and get a perfumed liquid from it
which is much sweeter and more refreshing than that from orange
blossoms.

798. In Bandan and other islands near it in 4° S., is the chief
headquarters of the nutmeg or spice-nut production. This grows on
a small tree like a pin oak; the nuts are like acorns, and the cups
at their base are mastic (mace?). These islands grow other aromatic
products also.

799. Pepper grows in many of the spice islands of that archipelago
but its chief and most abundant center of production is in Zeinda,
50 leagues NW. of the island of Timor and lying in 20° S.; this
island is over 50 leagues in circuit. Both this and all the other islands
abound in spices and other luxuries, some of course more than others.

[CHapTer Of the Diversity of Languages Existing in the World
and How the Natural and Holy Language Which God Gave Our First
Fathers, Was Confounded, and of the Origin of the Disorder Due
to So Many Languages.

800. [Seeing that in this first part I have treated of the kingdoms
of New Spain and of what pertains to its district, and of the diversity
of tribes and of languages so diverse to be found there and in the
district of Peru, and what pertains to them, I shall write briefly in
the subsequent chapters on the following subject: what the duration
was of the natural and holy language which God our Lord gave our
first fathers, [till when it lasted], how it became corrupted, and
in what manner the nationalities were scattered over the world’s
provinces; and in particular about the tribes and languages which
were discovered and found in all the regions of Colonia, as it should

278 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

justly be called rather than America, since it took its beginning from
that famous Admiral and Viceroy in Perpetuity of the Indies, Don
Cristébal Colén, in the year 1592 (sic), viz, all the West Indies
of New Spain and the Southern Indies of Peru with all that attaches
to them, for (after God) he is owed the glory of those famous
discoveries.

801. Sixteen hundred and fifty-seven years after God had created
the earth, the abominable sins of mankind and their departure from
His divine worship and knowledge brought on the universal Flood,
in which all perished and only righteous Noah and his children were
saved. Two years after the Flood, in 1659, Shem son of Noah begat
Arphaxad, and in the year 1694, when Arphaxad was 35 years old,
he begat Salah; and in the year 1724, when Salah was 30 years old,
he begat Eber, who was righteous and a prophet. He it was, when
IOI years had passed since the Flood, who was present at the founda-
tion of Babylon and of its haughty Tower, on which occasion God
confounded the natural and holy language He had given our father
Adam in Paradise. |

(Paragraphs 800 and 801 were all crossed out in the MS, and the
pages left without numbers.)

SECRETARIAT OF NEw SPAIN

802. Statement of the cities (ciudades) and towns (villas) of
Spaniards in the Indies, by the districts of the Circuit Courts
(Audiencias) and Dioceses (Obispados) ; the cities are indicated in
the margin by a C, the towns by a V, the mining camps by an M.

803. In the district of the Circuit Court of the island of Hispaniola
and its Archbishropric.

C. Santo Domingo. V. Cotuy.
C. Santiago de Los Caballeros. V. Azta or Compostela.
C. La Concepcion de La Vega. V. Monte Christi.
C. Nuestra Sefiora de Alta Gracia. V. San Antonio de Monte de Plata.
V. Seibo. V. Ayquimo.
V. Yaguana. V. Boano or Buena Ventura.
V. Salvaleon de Higtiey.
804. In the Diocese of Puerto Rico.
C. San Juan de Puerto Rico. V. Coamo.
V. Guadianilla. V. Arecibo.

805. In the island of Margarita, which for a limited time is attached
to the above Diocese.

C. La Margarita. V. Valle de Paraguachi.
V. Valle de La Margarita. V. Valle de Tacarigua.

ee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST > INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 279

806. On the Spanish Main, the cities of the State of Nueva Anda-

lucia of Cumana.

C. Cumana. Cs
C. Cumanagoto. @
C. San Felipe de Austria.

807. State of Guiana (Gobierno de
C. Santo Tomé de Guayana. G

808. Diocese of the island of Cuba.

City of Porsi.
San Juan de La Laguna de Uchire.

Guayana), new prelacy.

San Joseph on the island of Trini-
dad.

C. Santiago de Cuba. V. Santi Spiritus.
C. San Cristdbal de La Habana. V. Villa and Puerto del Principe.
V. Baracoa. V. La Trinidad.
V. Bayamo. View El Cayo:
On the mainland.
C. San Augustin, Florida.
On the island of Jamaica.
V. La Vega.
809. Diocese of Venezuela.
C. Santiago de Leén de Caracas. G2) Locuyo;
€. Goro: C. La Laguna de Maracaibo, called
C. San Sebastian de Los Reyes. Zamora.
C. Nueva Valencia. @.. arora:
C. Trujillo. C. Guanare.
C. Barquisimeto.
810. District of the Circuit Court of Mexico.
C. Mexico. V. & M. Sacualpa.
C. & Port of Acapulco. V. & M.° Sultepec.
V. Toluca. V. & M. Temascaltepec.
V. Santa Fé. V. & M. Simapan.
V. Santiago de Los Valles. V. & M. Cuauhtitlan.
V. & M. Pachuca. V. & M. Huautla.
We & M. -Tasco. V. Querétaro.
811. In the Diocese of Tlaxcala.
C. Puebla de Los Angeles. V. Carrién del Valle de Atlisco.
C. Old Vera Cruz. V. Orizaba.
C. & Port of New Vera Cruz. V. & M. Teutlalco and Tlalzingo.

Waialapas

There are other cities of Spaniards and Indians, not listed.

812. Diocese of Yucatan.

C. Mérida. We

C. Valladolid. V.

V. & Port of San Francisco de Cam-
peche.

Salamanca.
Nuestra Senora de La Vitoria in
Tabasco.

280 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

813. Diocese of Oaxaca.

C. Antequera in the valley of Oaxaca. V. & M. Santa Catalina de Chichi-
V. Nixapa. capa.
V. Tehuantepec. V. Guasacoalco.
V. Villalta de San Ildefonso. V. Espiritu Santo on the Rio de Al-
V. & Port of Huatulco. varado.
814. Diocese of Michoacan.
C. Valladolid or Patzcuaro. V. & M. Sinagua.
V. La Concepcion de Celaya. V. & M. Guaxuato (Guanajuato?).
V. San Felipe y San Miguel. V. & M. Tilalpujahua.
V. & M. San Luis de Potosi. V. Leon.
V. & M. Los Ramos. V. Xacona.
V. & M. Sierra de Pinos. V. & M. Sutchil.
V. Colima. Vie Zamora:
V. Zacatula. V. & M. EI Palmar.
V

& M. Guadalcazar.

815. District of the Circuit Court of Santiago de Los Caballeros
de Guatemala.

C. Santiago de Guatemala. V. La Trinidad or Sonsonate.
C. San Salvador. V. Jerez de La Choluteca.
C. San Miguel. V. & Port of Tomas de Castilla.
816. Diocese of Honduras.
C. Valladolid in the valley of Coma- CC. Gracias a Dids.
yagua. V. & M. Tegucigalpa.
C. & Port of Trujillo. V. & M. Yuscaran.
C. San Jorge de Olancho. V. Ulua.
C. San Pedro.
817. Diocese of the New Kingdom of Leon of Nicaragua.
C. Leon. C. Cartago.
C. Granada. V. & Port of Realejo.
C. Nueva Segovia. V. Esparza.

818. Diocese of Ciudad Real de Los Caballeros de Chiapa.

C. Ciudad Real (Royal City) of V. MHuehuetlan, in Soconusco.
Chiapa.
819. District of the Circuit Court of New Galicia, located in
Guadalajara.

C. Guadalajara. V. Nombre de Dios.

C. & M. Zacatecas. V. San Lucas.

C. Compostela. V. San Sebastian.

V. & M. Jerez. V. San Miguel de Culiacan.
V. & M. Tepezala. V. Santa Maria de Los Lagos.
V. & M. Sombrerete. V. Espiritu Santo de Tepic.
Vo SVE ora: V. & M. EI Fresnillo.

V. & M. San Martin. V. & M. EI Palmarejo.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 281

820. Diocese of Guadiana in New Vizcaya.

C. Guadiana, named Durango. V. & M. San Andrés.
C. Nuevo Mexico (New Mexico). V. & M. Yndehé.
@eeSantayeucia V. San Juan de Sinaloa.
Caca Me Mopia: V. & M. Saltillo.

V. & M. Cuencamé. V. & M. Guanasibi.

V. & M. Mapimi. V. & M. Santa Barbara.
V. & M. Mazapil. V. & M. Los Plateros.

There are many other settlements and silver-mining camps which
it is impossible to enumerate.

821. District of the Circuit Court of Manila, located in the Philip-
pine Islands.

C. Manila. V. Punta Hermosa.
C. Cebu. V. Ot6n or Arévalo.
C. Nueva Segovia. Vi. Panay:

C. Nombre de Jesus, called Caceres.

In the Molucca Islands.
C. & Fort of Rosario. C. San Pedro y San Pablo.

822. Thus in the district of the Secretariat functioning in the
Kingdom of New Spain, in which belong the Kingdoms of New
Galicia, New Vizcaya, Honduras and Nicaragua, the Windward
Islands, and the Provinces and States.on the Spanish Main, viz, those
of Venezuela, Cumana, and Guiana, the Philippine Islands and those
dependent on them, and the Moluccas, there are 158 Spanish settle-
ments, of which 70 are cities and 98 towns (villas) and those desig-
nated with an M are mining towns, not counting many others which
might be adduced, and noting that in New Spain many cities with
numbers of Spaniards are not enumerated because they are cities of
Indians, like the cities in the Archbishopric of Mexico of Texcoco,
Xochimilco, Tacuba, Chalco, and others, and in the district of the
Diocese of Puebla the cities of Tlaxcala, Tepeaca also called Segura,
Huejotzingo, Cholula, and others—6o cities, 98 towns.

823. Table of the Circuit Courts (Audiencias), Governorships,
Corregimientos, Alcaldias Mayores, Secretaryships (Officios de
Pluma), Archiepiscopates, and Episcopates whose incumbents are
appointed by His Majesty in the district of the Secretariat of New
Spain, and those appointed by the Viceroy, the Presidents and the
Governors, with the salaries and incomes which they receive.

824. The Circuit Court of the island of Hispaniola with seat in
Santo Domingo was the first established in the Indies; it has a
President with a salary of 5,000 ducats, 4 Associate Justices (Oidores)
and an Attorney (Fiscal), each with an annual salary of 600,000
maravedis.

282 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

825. The Circuit Court of Mexico is the most important in New
Spain; the Viceroy resides there; his salary is 20,000 ducats. The
Court has 8 Associate Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte, and 2 Attorneys ;
each has a salary of 800,000 maravedis. This Court has 3 Relators.

826. The Circuit Court of Santiago de Guatemala, which includes
the Provinces of Honduras and Nicaragua, has a President with a
salary of 5,000 ducats, 5 Associate Justices, one Supernumerary,
and an Attorney; these are likewise Alcaldes de Corte, each with a
salary of 750,000 maravedis per annum.

827. The Circuit Court of New Galicia with residence in Guada-
lajara, has a President with a salary of 3,000 ducats, 4 Associate
Justices who are likewise Alcaldes de Corte, and an Attorney, each
with an annual salary of 2,000 ducats.

828. The Circuit Court for the Philippines with seat in Manila
has a President, who is Governor and Captain General, with a salary
of 8,000 assay dollars (pesos ensayados) per annum; 4 Associate
Justices who are Alcaldes de Corte; and an Attorney, each with a
salary of 2,000 assay dollars a year.

829. Thus His Majesty fills 40 positions by appointment in the
district of New Spain, viz, in the five Circuit Courts, a Viceroy,
4 Presidents, 24 Associate Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte, and 6 At-
torneys, plus other officials like Secretaries, Relators, and other neces-
sary functionaries.

830. The Circuit Court of Santo Domingo with residence in the
island of Hispaniola, contains within its district g Governorships ;
8 are filled by appointment of His Majesty in consultation with his
Royal Council of the Indies, viz: that of Puerto Rico; 2 in the island
of Cuba, that of Santiago de Cuba and that of Havana; that of
Florida; that of Caracas, Province of Venezuela, with another in
Cumana; that of Margarita, and that of Guiana and Trinidad; and
that of the island of Jamaica, whose incumbent is appointed by the
Duke of Veragua. There is one Alcaldia Mayor, filled by His Majesty
in consultation with the Supreme Council; this is called the Alcaldia
Mayor de la Tierra Adentro (of the country inland.)

It likewise contains within its district the Archdiocese of Santo
Domingo and three Dioceses, viz, Puerto Rico, Cuba, and that of
Venezuela with seat in Caracas; and 2 Abbacies, that of Jamaica
and the one which orders have been issued to establish in the
Provinces of Guiana.

831. The Circuit Court of Mexico, which is the most important
in New Spain, comprises within its district g judicial posts, viz,
Governor of Yucatan, Alcalde Mayor of Tabasco, Governor and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 283

Alcalde Mayor of Tlaxcala, Corregidor of Mexico City, Alcalde
Mayor of Istlavaca or Mequetepec, Alcalde Mayor of Tacuba, Alcalde
Mayor of Huautla and Amilpas, Alcalde Mayor of Tlanepantla, and
Alcalde Mayor of San Luis de Potosi.

It comprises also within its district the Archdiocese of Mexico
and 4 Dioceses, viz, Tlaxcala, Michoacan, Oaxaca, and Yucatan, and
one more for whose constitution orders have been issued, as was
related in due course.

832. The Circuit Court of Santiago de Guatemala comprises
within its district 4 Governorships and 7 Alcaldias Mayores. The
Governorships are those of Soconusco, Honduras, Nicaragua, and
Costa Rica; the Alcaldias Mayores, Chiapas, Verapaz, Suchitepéquez
or Zapotitlan, Sonsonate or Villa de La Trinidad, San Salvador,
Tegucigalpa, [Guaxutla] and Nicoya.

It comprises also within its district 4 Dioceses, viz, those of Guate-
mala, Chiapas, Honduras, and Nicaragua.

833. The Circuit Court of New Galicia comprises within its district
2 judicial posts, whose incumbents are appointed by His Majesty in
consultation with the Supreme Council; these are: Governor of New
Vizcaya, and Corregidor of Zacatecas.

It comprises also within its district two Dioceses, viz, that of
Guadalajara and that of New Vizcaya.

834. The Circuit Court for the Philippines comprises within its
district the posts of Governor of Ternate and Archbishop of Manila,
and 3 Dioceses, viz, of Cebu, Nueva Segovia, and Nuevo Caceres.

835. Index of the gubernatorial and secretarial positions filled by
appointment by His Majesty in the district of the Circuit Court of
Santo Domingo, and the salaries received.

Governor and Captain General of the island of Puerto Rico; each

yeathe receives) a salary of 1,600) ducats...c.0..ec ss caccc- ce cde 1,600 duc.
Governor and Captain General of the city and port of Havana; 2,000

ASSAY; PESOS erserercrs Miao tacore secreye sic ecto oisini a ereiaiere © bee acaie eave! elutanerecd a 2,000 pesos
Governor and War Captain of Santiago de Cuba: 1,800 assay pesos..1,800 ”
Governor and Captain General of Florida; 2,000 ducats............. 2,000 duc.
Governor and Captain General of the Province of Venezuela; 2,000

CITC oS ntois Biota lc HI Onn bOI OO OEOTS DE OS ORO IC AC EE eet eis 2.000) |”
Governor and Captain General of Cumana and Nueva Andalucia;

PAOLO! GLEVEHESY Gayot Gio DIC DEO O SEO CS OTROS OTC aR ea ee 2/0000" 4
Governor of the island of Margarita; 1,500 ducats..............-. 1,500)
Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of Guiana and Trini-

adiMe> OOOMCUICAtS eis erate cies ctorere lo tees avo eiearo eee sare wale ole wre vores 3:000
CGovernornrontheisland ofn)amatCas.. ce. eelceicle « <ccle vieieina seit oietelere 600 pesos

Alcalde Mayor of the Country Inland (Tierra Adentro), of the island
Cimilispamola e500 ducatse- sacra ttiscceces ce c aee eine tees 500 duc.

284 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

836. The Royal Officials appointed by His Majesty in consultation
with the Supreme Council of the Indies in the district of the District
Court of the island of Hispaniola.

Paymaster (Contador) and Treasurer of Santo Domingo; each

receives 300,000) mMaravedis ‘Salary .'..- cies ees vee cies ieee 300,000 mds.
Paymaster and Treasurer of San Juan de Puerto Rico; at 100,000

TTLATAVEGIS) acer onitcisid cl gwislers veiw wie eneale le wanes OMe TaTionreR reece 100,000 ”
Paymaster and Treasurer of Havana; at 200,000 maravedis........ 200,000 ”
Paymaster and Treasurer of Florida; at 400,000 maravedis........ 400,000”
Paymaster and Treasurer of Caracas in the Province of Venezuela ;

At? £5 0/0001 “MAT AVEGIS «121 1sis c/s ayesha « cisce' a. Siete ieweisis aie siete of enmtetet te ents 130,000 ”

(sic)

Paymaster and Treasurer of Rio de la Hacha; at 100,000 mara-

WOM. « csivedresetath Give tidied, wich as ote algae tabs, ove ant tenede meteeyanes vetetoen east eemeierers 100,000”
Paymaster and Treasurer of Cumana; at 150,000 maravedis........ 150,000 ”

Paymaster and Treasurer of La Margarita; at 150,000 maravedis. .150,000

837. Index of the Governorships, Corregimientos, Alcaldias
Mayores, and Secretaryships (Officios de Pluma) whose incumbents
are appointed by His Majesty in the district of the Circuit Court of
Mexico, and the salaries they receive.

Governor and Captain General of Yucatan; 1,000 assay pesos.... 1,000 as. ps.
Alcalde ‘Mayor of Tabasco; 300 ducats... <.00- sctiewe cewiese wes 300 duc.
Governor and Alcalde Mayor of Tlaxcala.....................-----
Corregidor of Mexico City; 500,000 maravedis................- 500,000 mds.
Alcalde Mayor of Mequetepec or Istlavaca; 300 pesos......... 300 pesos
Alcalde=Mayor of acubas)-200' pesosives ja <.ctioiectetaer seis 200 ake
Alcalde Mayor of Huautla and Amilpas; 600 pesos............ 600 =”
Alcalde Mayor of Tlanepantla); 600° peSOS--). ie. cocci: ee hes 600)
Alcalde Mayor of the mines of San Luis de Potosi; 400 assay

PESOS” SoS Wscdeatrapaace lores ecala scelese Sta dw eke Gee calatebate S atcnetuenreeay tole erences 400 as. ps.

838. Royal Officials appointed by His Majesty in consultation with
the Supreme Council of the Indies in the district of the Circuit Court
of Mexico.

In Mexico City there is a Tribunal de Cuentas (Central Accounting
Office) with 3 Contadores (Paymasters) ; each receives a salary

OL (ZiOOOMAUCATS aia, cece etcucus! el hepesrcubate roresiefeteve tetas eyoreteletetercesreaeters 2,000 duc.
There are 2 other Paymasters or Ordenadores (Auditors) ; each

at 1.000; ducats.uehs cee fee neil seria ose entero roll rete, ef reeatrete 1000}e
There are 3 Royal Officials, Contador (Paymaster), Treasurer,

Factor :€@t §10;000 ‘maravediS. i)... s/s ssiisennle oietiaspeie cine istoeieias s 510,000 mds.
Paymaster for Tribute and Quicksilver; 1,700 pesOS............+- 1,700 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer for Vera Cruz; 510,000 maravedis...... 510,000 mds.
Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor of the port of Acapulco; at

300,000. .:maravediss 2.cnde, cic stapes oe iconic eine ae eae 300,000”
Paymaster and Treasurer of the mines of San Luis; at 350,000

IMATAVEGIS: hice sleep. dies Site sia ties eee ne ee OER oe Rie eee 350,000 ”

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 285

839. In the district of the Circuit Court of New Galicia:

Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of New Vizcaya;
ZOOORGUCALS Sor teP eats ofoictoterne te Dreseicsarare le: hel aval ale PSOE valtce cr Ooveralernte ies 2,000 duc.
Corresidor ‘om Zacatecas GOO! PESOSk.. 6. seiimsides oeels saels> lewis ee 800 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer of Guadalajara; at 400,000 maravedis...400,000 mds.

Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor of Guadiana in New Vizcaya;
AteEG TO OOO VINATAVECIS ces ails cciors orcs ii res reroree ree aiere sete esclelovoreicters 510,000

”

840. Index of the Governorships, Alcaldias Mayores, and Secre-
taryships (Officios de Pluma) filled by His Majesty’s appointment
in the district of the Circuit Court of Guatemala, and the salaries
they receive.

Governor and Captain General of Honduras; 1,000 pesos de minas.1,000 pesos

Governor and Captain General of Costa Rica; 2,000 ducats........ 2,000 duc.
Governors or Nicahaciia yy 1 OGONdUCAtS: wets cea sila sles etelelaie's cic sietee = 1,000 |”
Governor OF SOCOMUSCOS TyOOO) “PESOSiee.. crocs eveicis v0.2: clare so hols a:a'ereieueys 1,000 pesos
Alcalde’ Mayor of Chiapa; 800 pesos de minas..... ...)\. cc...s e008 800”
Alcalde Mayor of the Suchitepéquez; 700 pesos de minas.......... 700,”
micaide Mayor ot. Verapaz,, 800 PESOS «66% 06:6 << 610i 6.86 ais.nihe «ote anaes 800”
Alcalde Mayor of the town of Trinidad or Sonsonate; 700 pesos... 700 ”
Alcalde Mayor of San Salvador; 500 pesos de minas.............. 500 ”
Alcalde Mayor of the mines of Tegucigalpa; 600 pesos de minas... 600 ”
NicaldetMayor ob Nicoyas! 200 ducats <i ay ae1mieure. es sssyena dis site es one 200 duc.

841. Royal Officials functioning in the district of Guatemala:

Paymaster and Treasurer of Guatemala; at 300,000 maravedis....300,000 mds.
Treasurer of the town of Trinidad and port of Acajutla; 600 ducats. 600 duc.
Paymaster and Treasurer of Honduras and the port of Trujillo; at

DOO OOOR MAN AV ECMI Shey mrcdte mre tie ic vsrel cru onthe re ciskeneyarorsszic Cosel cmtetey ieusre ie © 200,000 mds.
Paymaster and Treasurer of Nicaragua; 200,000 maravedis........ 200,000 ”

842. In the district of the Circuit Court of the Philippine Islands,
His Majesty appoints, in consultation with the Supreme Council of
the Indies:

Governor and Captain General in the island of Ternate;

Z OOO =PESOSUGEMMIN AS seorravore a helene -oraters cles ove acelacereiles ovsienelee 2,000 assay pesos
Paymaster, Treasurer, Factor, and Inspector (Veedor) of

the Philippine Islands, with seat in Manila; at 510,000

TTVeATel Vie CES eee Oe Weegee Ay ep UN RR tear, og te 2B ofl ce 510,000 mds.

843. Thus His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council
of the Indies, appoints in the district of the Secretariat of New Spain,
to 32 judicial posts: the 14 Governorships, and 18 Alcaldias Mayores ;
plus 2 Corregimientos and 45 posts of Paymaster, Treasurers, Fac-
tors, and Inspectors, as has been tabulated ; not counting many dele-
gates (tenientes) appointed by the Royal Officials in their districts,
since they have wide jurisdictions and cannot give personal attention
on account of the distances involved.

286 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

844. Posts whose incumbents are appointed by the Viceroy of
New Spain in the district of the Circuit Court of Mexico City. The
Corregimientos are indicated by the letter C, and the Alcaldias
Mayores by the letter A; those with a £ are the best. In the Arch-
diocese of Mexico the Viceroy appoints to 22 Alcaldias Mayores and
24 Corregimientos, and the Marques del Valle to 1 Alcaldia Mayor and
2 Corregimientos. Their salaries run from 200 to 250 and 300 pesos.

845.

A. Warden and Alcalde Mayor of A. Panuco; 100 pesos.

Acapulco; £; 200 pesos. A. Querétaro; £.
A. Chalco and Tlalmanalco; £; 250 A. Mines of Taxco; £; 250.

pesos. A. Texcoco; £; 250 pesos.
A. Mines of Sacualpa; £; 250 pesos. A. Tepoztlan and Cuauhtitlan.
A. Mines of Sultepec; £; 250 pesos. A. Mines of Tetela; 200 pesos.
A. Mines of Simapan. A. Mines of Temascaltepec; £; 200
A. Mines of Escanela. pesos.
A. Hueypoxtla. A. Tula; 200 pesos.
A. Mestitlan; £; 200. A. Town of Santiago de Los Valles;
A. Malinalco. cee
A. Otucpa. A. Jilotepec; 250.
A. Mines of Pachuca; £; 500 pesos. A. Ixmiquilpan; 250 pesos.

846. Corregimientos.

C. Atengo Misquiaguala; 200. C. San Juan Totiguacan.
C. Atitalaquia; 200. C. Totolapa; 200.
C. Atlatlahuca del Valle; 200. C. Tarasquillo.
C. Chico Nautla; 200. C. Tulanzingo.
C. Zumpango, and Zitlaltepec; 150. C. Tetela del Volcan.
C. Zempoala; 150. C. Tepeapulco; 250.
C. Coatepeque. C. Teutenango.
C. Estapalapa. C. City of Xochimilco; £; 400 pesos.
C. Guachinango; f. C. Xuchiquautla.
C. Huayacocotla. C. Ixcateopa; 200.
C. Guajutla; 200. C. Yeguala; £; 200 pesos.
C. Otumba; 350. C. Yahualica; 200.

847. The Marqués del Valle appoints 3 incumbents in this district
of the Archbishopric, viz, A. Cuernavaca ; C. Coyoacan, and the town
of Toluca. These make a total of 49 Alcaldias Mayores and Corregi-
mientos.

848. In the district of the Diocese of Tlaxcala, he appoints to 14
Alcaldias Mayores, and 19 Corregimientos.

A. City of Los Angeles (Puebla); A. Chiautla de La Sal; 200.

£; 400. A. Zacatlan, and Hueytlalpan.
A. Tlaxcala, formerly in His Maj- A. Tehuacan; £.
A

esty’s appointment; £; 300. . Mines of Tonala, and Silacayoa-
A. Acatlan; 150. - pan; £.

WHOLE VOL.

ae

za
A.

AQITeOe gaan

Mines of Teutlalco, and Tlal-
zingo; é.
City of Tepeaca; £; 300.

Town of Carrion de Atlisco; £.
849. Corregimientos.

Ahuatlan, and Coyatitlanapa.
City of Cholula; £; 300.
Chilapa.

Chietla.

Cuzcatlan; 200.

City of Huejotzingo; £; 250.
Huatlatlauca ; 200.

Orizaba.

San Juan de Los Llanos; f.
San Antonio Guatusco.

THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

A
A.
Pe
A

ANN oCa.n Aam

287

Old Vera Cruz; f.

Town of Jalapa; £; 350.
Ysucar; £; 250.

Tamiagua, and Guachinango.

Dlapa sz.

Tonatico, and Cozocolco; 200.
Teziutlan, and Atempa; 150.
Tepeji de La Seda.

Tixtla, and Zumpango.
Tuxtepec, and Quimixtlan.
New Vera Cruz; f.

Jalacingo; 200.

Xonotla; 200.

850. In the district of the Diocese of Oaxaca, the Viceroy appoints
to 34 judicial posts ; 22 are Corregimientos, and 12 Alcaldias Mayores.

A. Mines of Chichicapa and Santa A. Town of Guasaqualco; £; 600.
Catalina; £; 200. A. Town of Nixapa; £; 250.
AwmeCity, OF Oaxaca £: A. Villalta de San Ildefonso; £; 350.
A. Port of Huatulco; £; 150. A. Xicayan; £; 200.
A. Teposcolula; £; 200. A. Igualapa; £.
A. Teutila; 200. A. Yagualulcos.
A. Town of Tehuantepec; £; 600.
851. The following are Corregimientos:
C. Atlatlahuca de Oaxaca; 200. C. Teutitlan del Camino.
C. Chinanta, and Ucila. C. Tuilantongo; 200.
C. Cuicatlan; 200. C. Teozacoalco.
C. Zimatlan; 100. C. Tecocuilco.
C. Huaxolotitlan. C. Temauaca, and Quictepeque; 200.
C. Huaxpaltepec; 200. C. Texopa; 200.
C. Huajuapan. C. Teotitlan and Macuilxochil; 150.
C. Miahuatlan; £. C. Xustlaguaca; 200.
C. Mitla, and Tlacolula. C. Yanguitlan; £; 250.
C. Nochixtlan; 100. C. Ixtepexi.
C. Papalotipaque; 200. C. Isquuintepeque de Los Penoles.
852. The Marqués del Valle appoints in this district to 3 offices,
AZ.
A. Las Cuatro Villas; £. Chetiuxtlases
C. Jalapa del Marqués; £.

A
A.

853. In the district of the Diocese of Michoacan, the Viceroy
appoints to 13 Alcaldias Mayores and 10 Corregimientos. (In mar-
gin: 13 to 1; but the list gives 14 Alcaldias.)

City of Valladolid; £; 500.
Zacatula; £; 300.

A.
AG

Mines of Sinagua; £; 100.
Guacomanmotines ; £; 250.

2

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Town of Celaya; £.

Town of San Miguel y San Fe-
lipe; £; 400.

Town of Leon; f.

Town of Xacona.

Mines of Guanajuato; 200.
Mines of Guadalcazar.

San Luis de Potosi; £; 400.
Mines of Suchil; £; 200.
Mines of Tlalpujahua; £; 250.
Town of Colima; £; 300.

>> PDP >
== oe

854. The following are Corregimientos in the same district :

Tuxpan, and Zapotlan.
Tlazazalca; 150.
Tingtindin ; 140.
Jiquilpan; 150.

Xaso and Temerendo; 200.

Chilchota ; 150.

Cuyseo.

Guayameo, and Sindaro.

Tancitaro; £; 150.

Tajimaroa, and Maravatio; £;
150.

AO OA
Ceca

And the Marqués del Valle appoints to:
C. Matalzingo.

855. The above are the offices whose incumbents are appointed
by the Viceroy in the district of the Circuit Court of Mexico City ;
in the district of New Galicia he appoints to 7 Alcaldias Mayores, 6 of
them in the Diocese of Guadalajara; they are:

A. Auitlan, and Port of La Navidad. A. Saltworks of Pefiol Blanco.

A. Amula; £. A. Saltworks of Santa Maria.
A. Sayula, Province of Avalos; £. A. Ysatlan.

856. And in the district of New Vizcaya, which is likewise under
the Circuit Court of New Galicia, one, viz:
A. Town of Nombre de Dios.

G. In New Mexico, a Governor with title of Sefioria (Lordship) and 2,000
PESOS: SALA GY sis iste, cialis 4, erwirpn aravanele are» oo, 4 shasea seats hens ke ete a ote ee ener 2,000 pesos

857. The President of the Circuit Court of New Galicia, located
in Guadalajara, appoints to 90 Corregimientos and Alcaldias Mayores
of mining camps and other cities and towns in the district of the

Circuit Court 3.20 1 Ws ok. vectors sists Sige at ee ee eee go
858. The Governor of New Vizcaya appoints to 27 Alcaldias
Mayores and Corregimienitos in/his’ district]. 2 2.7 fo. 25 sess oars 27

859. The President of the Circuit Court of Santiago de Guatemala
appoints in his district to 13 Corregimientos; 9 are in the district of
the Diocese of Guatemala:

Totonicapa; £. C. Guazacapan; #.
Tepantitlan; £. C. Casabastran.
Atitlan. C. El Valle.

€

Quezaltenango; £.
Esquintepeque.

Chiquimula de La Sierra; £.

ANNAN

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 289

860. The others are in the Diocese of Nicaragua:

C. El Viejo and Port of Realejo; £. C. Monimbo, and Masaya; £.
C. Quezalguaque, and Sutiaba. C. Los Chontales.

He appoints also many other officials and Juezes de Milpas (Plan-
tation Inspectors).

861. The President of the Circuit Court of the Philippines, with
seat in Manila, appoints to 18 judicial posts; 13 are Alcaldias
Mayores, designated by the letter A, plus the distance of each from
Manila; the 5 Corregimientos are indicated by the letter C.

A. Pampanga; to leagues. A. Cagayan; 100 1.
A. Bulacan; 6 1. A. Cebu; too 1.
A. Laguna de Bay; 10 1. A. Oton, or town of Arévalo; 50 1.
A. Batangas; 15 1. (Nor aniayyessO) le
A. Camarines; 100 1. A. Leyteza Maribabao; 50 1.
A. Pangasinan; 30 1. A. Caraga; 100 1.
A. Ilocos; 501.
The 5 others are Corregimientos.
C. Marinduque; 40 |. C. Mariveles; 7 1.
C. Embocadero; 130 1. C. Calamianes; 60 1.
C. Isla de Negros; 60 1.

Besides these, he appoints to many other posts, both for civil
government and to military posts on land and sea.

862. The Viceroys of New Spain appoint to the following offices ;
normally they are assigned to servants, who administer through
representatives, or rent them out; most of them have the salaries
indicated, in pesos of 8 reals (dollars of pieces of eight), with other
perquisites they have:

Captain of the Guard, 1,000 p.
Juez Repartidor of Mexico City, ——.
Repartidor for Chalco, 3,000 p.
Repartidor for Tacuba, 3,000 p.
Repartidor for Tacubaya, 3,000 p.
Repartidor for Tepoztlan, 3,000 p.
Repartidor for El Valle de San Pablo, 3,500 p.
Repartidor for the Taxco mines, 2,000 p.
Repartidor for the Pachuca mines, 1,200 p.
Repartidor for the Sultepec mines, 1,100 p.
Repartidor for the Sacualpa mines, 800 p.
Repartidor for the Huautla mines, 500 p.
For the Guanajuato mines, 2,500 p.
For the Temascaltepec mines, ——.
For the Simapan mines,
For the Chichicapa mines,

20

290 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

For the Tlalpujahua mines, ——.
Repartidor for Oaxaca, 2,000 p.
Mill inspector (Juez de ingenios) for the Marquesate del Valle, 2,000 p.
Mill inspector for Michoacan, 2,000 p.
For Jalapa, 2,000 p.
For Ystcar, 2,000 p.
Superintendent (Mayordomo) of the New Vera Cruz Hospital, 400 p.
Of the Old Vera Cruz Hospital, 400 p.
Inspector (Veedor) of the Mexico City slaughterhouses, 400 p.
Portero de Cadena (Chain Porter), 200 p.
Alguacil de la Guerra (War Constable), 300 p.
Alguacil de las Casas Reales (Constable of the Royal Palace), 400 p.
Two Alguaciles de Vagabundos (Vagrancy Constables), 600 p.
Alguacil de Calzadas (Highway Constable), 400 p.
Warden (Alcaide) of Chapultepec, 500 p.
Repartidor for Atlixco for His Majesty, ——.
Inspector (Juez) for Las Amilpas,
Inspector for the Old Highway to Vera Cruz, 600 p.
Inspector for the New Highway, 1,000 p.
Guarda mayor (Chief Customs Officer) of Acapulco, 200 p.
Verifier of Royal Warrants, 300 p.
Registrar of Fines (Penas de Camara), 800 p.
Constable-Protector for the Atatilulco ward of Mexico City, 200 p.
Constable for the San Julio ward, 200 p.
Sergeant Major of the fortress of San Juan de Ulloa , :
Ensign of the fortress, 3
Chief Warden of the Cathedral of Tlaxcala, 800 p.
Factory Inspector for Mexico City, 800 p.
Factory Inspector for the environs, 800 p.
Factory Inspector for Texcoco, 600 p.
Factory Inspector for Puebla, 1,000 p. =
Factory Inspector for Tlaxcala, 1,000 p.
Auditor for deceased persons’ property, I,000 p.
His solicitor, 600 p.
Inspector for hog slaughtering, 2,000 p.
Leather Inspector, 2,000 p.
Five companies of infantry each year, ——.
Ensigns and Sergeants, ;
Sergeant Major of Mexico City, ——.
Ensign Royal of the Philippines Fleet, ——.
Lieutenant for the Captain General for the Chichimecas, 500 p.
Lieutenant General of New Galicia; these are at 500 p.
Governor of New Mexico, 2,000 p.
Chief Guard of the galley prisoners in the Philippines, ——.
Guard for the prisoners whom they send to Spain,
Two sentinels at His Majesty’s gate, ——.
Factory Inspector for Vera Cruz.

868. The Viceroys of New Spain appoint to 144 judicial posts:
68 Alcaldias Mayores, 75 Corregimientos, and 1 Governor, for New

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 291

Mexico. Seven posts are filled by the Marqués del Valle, as indicated
in their proper place. The President of the Circuit Court of Guada-
lajara in New Galicia, makes 90 appointments; the Governor of
‘New Vizcaya, 27; the President of Guatemala, 13; the President of
the Philippines, 18. Thus the total of judicial appointments made
by the Viceroy, the Marqués, the Presidents, and the Governors,
amounts to 299, not counting appointments mentioned of Attorneys
(de Gracia) and other inspectors named for cochineal and plantations,
which it would be impossible to enumerate.

864. His Majesty appoints, in the Secretariat of New Spain, in
consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies, to 3 Arch-
dioceses and 16 Dioceses; one more has already been outlined, to
be carved out of that of Tlaxcala; the Cathedral will be built in the
town of Guasacoalco, or city of Vera Cruz, or wherever may seem
most suitable; that will make 17 Dioceses, plus 2 Abbacies, one in
Jamaica, the other to be established in the Provinces of Guiana.
These will all be tabulated in order under their Metropolitans, with
all their revenues, dignities and prebends.

865. Archdiocese of Santo Domingo and its suffragans.

Archdiocese of Santo Domingo; 3,000 ducats.
Diocese of Puerto Rico; 5,000,000 maravedis.
Diocese of Cuba, or Havana; 5,000,000 maravedis.
Diocese of Venezuela ; 5,000,000 maravedis.

Abbacy of Jamaica; 1,000 pesos.

Abbacy of Guiana; 1,000 p.

866. Archdiocese of Mexico City and its suffragans.

Archdiocese of Mexico; 25,000 pesos.
Diocese of Tlaxcala; 50,000 p.

Diocese of Yucatan; 6,000 p.

Diocese of Oaxaca; 6,000 p.

Diocese of Michoacan; 16,000 p.

Diocese of Guadalajara; 8,000 p.

Diocese of Guadiana; 5,000 p.

Diocese of Chiapas; 500,000 maravedis.
Diocese of Guatemala; 6,000 p.

Diocese of Honduras; 5,000,000 (maravedis).
Diocese of Nicaragua; 500,000 (maravedis). (Suffragan of Lima).

867. Archdiocese of the Philippines, and its suffragans.

Archdiocese of Manila; 3,000 ducats.

Diocese of Cebti; 5,000,000 (maravedis).

Diocese of Nueva Segovia; 5,000,000 (maravedis).
Diocese of Nuevo Caceres; 5,000,000 (maravedis ).

292

868.

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Archdiocese of Santo Domingo ; 3,000 ducats.

Archbishop, Fray Ambrosio Vallejo of the Carmelite Order ; ——.
‘This church has/Sidignitaries: they Deansa-ceeces scares 4,000 reals
The Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 3,000 reals
It has 10 Canons, at 200 ducats each.

Three Prebendaries (Racioneros), at 150 ducats.

869. Diocese of Puerto Rico; 500,000 maravedis.

Bishop.

It has 3 dignitaries: the Dean, 400 8-real pesos.
Archdean and Precentor (Chantre), at 3,000 reals.
Four Canons, at 200 pesos.

Two Prebendaries, at 150 pesos.

870. Diocese of Santiago de Cuba.

871.

Bishop, Dr. Don Leon de Cervantes ; 500,000 mds.
It has 2 dignitaries: the Dean, 4,000 reals.

The Precentor, 3,000 reals.

Four Canons, at 200 ducats.

Diocese of Venezuela; 500,000 maravedis.

Bishop: Fray Gonzalo de Angulo, of the Order of Our Lady of
Victory.

It has 3 dignitaries: the Dean, 4,000 reals.

Archdean and Precentor, at 3,000 reals.

This church has no Canons.

Abbacy of Jamaica: 8,000 reals.
Abbacy of Guiana.
872. Archdiocese of Mexico City ; 25,000 pesos.

Archbishop: Don Francisco Manso.

It has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 2,600 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 2,400 pesos.
Eight Canons, at 1,700 pesos.

Six Prebendaries, at I,000 pesos.

Six half-time Prebendaries, at 600 pesos.

873. Diocese of Tlaxcala, or Los Angeles.

Bishop: Dr. Gutierre Bernardo de Quirds; 50,000 pesos.

It has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 4,400 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 3,800 pesos.
Ten Canons, at 2,800 pesos.

Six Prebendaries, at 2,000 pesos.

Five half-time Prebendaries, at 1,600 pesos.

874. Diocese of Yucatan; 6,000 pesos.

Bishop: Fray Gonzalo de Salazar, Augustinian.

It has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 800 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 600 pesos.
Three Canons, at 450 pesos.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 293

875. Diocese of Michoacan; 16,000 pesos.

Bishop.

It has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 1,500 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 1,200 pesos.
Ten Canons, at 1,000 pesos.

Four Prebendaries, at 600 pesos.

876. Diocese of Guadalajara ; 8,000 pesos.

Bishop: Fray Francisco de Ribera, Mercedarian.

This church has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 800 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 600 pesos.
Six Canons, at 500 pesos.

Four Prebendaries, at 300 pesos.

877. Diocese of Guadiana; 6,000 pesos.

Bishop: Fray Gonzalo Hermosillo, Augustinian.
This church has 3 dignitaries: the Dean, 1,300 pesos.
Archdean and Precentor, at 1,100 pesos.

Two Canons, at 900 pesos.

878. Diocese of Oaxaca ; 6,000 pesos.

Bishop: Fray Juan de Bohorquez, Dominican.

This church has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 1,000 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 800 pesos.

In this church, His Majesty ordered the post of Choirmaster to be
abolished.

It has 9 Canons, at 500 pesos.

879. The following churches are in the district of the Circuit
Court of Guatemala:

Diocese of Chiapas; 500,000 maravedis.

Bishop.

It has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 400 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 300 pesos.
Two Canons, at 200 pesos.

880. Diocese of Guatemala ; 6,000 pesos.

Bishop: Fray Juan Zapata, Augustinian.

This church has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 600 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 500 pesos.
It has 7 Canons, at 450 pesos.

881. Diocese of Honduras; 500,000 maravedis.

Bishop: Fray Luis Canizares, Victorian.

This church has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 400 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 300 pesos.
There are no Canons.

294 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

882. Diocese of Nicaragua; 500,000 maravedis.

Bishop: Fray Benito Valtodano, Benedictine.

This church has 3 dignitaries: the Dean, 500 pesos.
Archdean and Choirmaster, at 400 pesos.

Two Canons, at 300 pesos.

883. Archdiocese of Manila in the Philippine Islands.

Archbishop: Fray Miguel Garcia, Augustinian; 3,000 ducats.
This church has 5 dignitaries: the Dean, 600 pesos.

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer, at 500 pesos.
It has 2 Canons, at 400 pesos.

One Prebendary, at 300 pesos.

The Diocese of Cebu, or Nombre de Jesus.

Fray Pedro Arce, Augustinian; 500,000 maravedis.

The Diocese of Nueva Segovia.

Maestro Guerrero; 500,000 maravedis.

That of Caceres, or Camarines.

Fray Francisco Samudio; 500,000 maravedis.

These churches have no Prebendaries.

884. Summary of all the posts whose incumbents are appointed
by His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of the
Indies, in the district of the Secretariat of New Spain; in the five
Audiencias (Circuit Courts) under its jurisdiction, 40 officials: in
that of Mexico City, a Viceroy, 8 Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte, 2
Attorneys; in that of Guatemala, a President, 5 Justices, and an
Attorney ; in that of Santo Domingo, 4 Justices, a President, and an
Attorney; in that of Guadalajara, a President, 4 Justices, and an
Attorney; in that of the Philippines, a President, 4 Justices, and
an Attorney; plus the Relators whom they have, the Secretaries and
other functionaries whom I do not tabulate, in order to avoid
PrOlaxity: eve polski als ee eek ah Saws tee eae ee eee 40

His Majesty appoints in this district, in consultation with his Royal
Council, to 32 Governorships, Alcaldias Mayores, and Corregi-
MICNIEOS! oo 4:4 a sid 40 Soa te Sale ew So ee tn Scr eee 32

He appoints also to 45 positions as Paymasters, Treasurers, and
PactOrs: 2sid.dagethales inte lone cen ee he eee eee eee eee 45

He appoints in the ecclesiastical sphere to 21 churches, 3 of which
are Archiepiscopal, 16 Episcopal,‘and’2 Abbacies. =2.2 8. 2520: 21

He appoints in these churches to 185 benefices ; 79 are church digni-
taries; 79 Canons;~26 Prebendaries; and 11 half-time Preben-
GaLi€s © 2:54 od wate asda Ue ee Cee eee 185

885. The Viceroy of New Spain appoints the Presidents of Guate-
mala, Guadalajara, and the Philippines, and the Governor of Nueva
Vizcaya ; 299 officers of justice—Corregidores and Alcaldes Mayores

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 295

—plus many Inspectors for woolen mills, cochineal, plantations, sugar
mills, and highways; officers to allot Indians; and to other posts
Bat Seca MANMEMES oy sre) oiaiiala ney alloca lahat al seonete aie leliesale\ chet alote = otala,'0 ss 299

There is in the City of Mexico the Tribunal of the Holy Inquisi-
tion, with 2 Inquisitors and an Attorney, appointed by the Inquisitor
General and approved by the Royal Council for the Indies ; each has
a salary of 2,000 assay pesos. It has Secretaries and the other officials
and functionaries necessary. There is also a Tribunal of the Holy
Crusade.

TABLE

Table of the Six Books and the Chapters of Part I, Dealing with
the District of the Secretariat of New Spain.

Book I deals with navigation to the Indies, and with the problem
of its first settlers.

Chapter 1. Of the course laid*to the Indies, and the return voyage to Spain.

Chapter 2. Demonstrating the sphericity of the earth, its dimensions, and how
in His Majesty’s dominions at every hour Mass is being said.

Chapter 3. Of the Universal Flood, and of the confusion of tongues at the
building of the Tower of Babel.

Chapter 4. Continuing the description of the preceding subject.

Chapter 5. Discussing the vicissitudes of the countries which had just passed
through the Flood, and how they split apart and how the first settlers crossed
to the Indies.

Chapter 6. Continuing this subject, and how the first settlers crossed to the
Indies.

Chapter 7. Continuing the preceding subject, and how those peoples crossed
to settle the Indies; and the animals living in them.

Chapter 8. Discussing the origin of the first settlers of the Indies, and when
_ they arrived, and by what route.

Chapter 9. Continuing the discussion of the same subject, with an elucidation
of the prophecy in conformity with the peculiarities and characteristics. of the
Indies.

Chapter 10. Continuing the discussion of the origin and ancestry of the first
settlers of the Indies.

Chapter 11. How the Indians are altogether similar to the Hebrews from
whom they are descended.

Chapter 12. How in their burial rites the Indians were like the Hebrews, and
in other matters.

Chapter 13. Of the confusion and diversity of languages existing in the Indies.

Chapter 14. Some notes regarding the Quichua, Aymara and other languages
of those kingdoms of the district of Peru, Chile, the New Kingdom of Granada,
and the Rio de la Plata.

Chapter 15. On some words in the Mexican language and in others of New
Spain and the Spanish Main belonging to the district of New Spain.

Chapter 16. Of various other languages spoken on the Spanish Main and in
the Dioceses of Caracas and Puerto Rico, which belong to the Secretariat of
New Spain.

296 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Book II deals with the district of the Circuit Court of the island
of Hispaniola. It contains 39 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the island of Hispaniola, its extent and characteristics, and
when it was discovered by Christopher Columbus.

Chapter 2. Of the city of Santo Domingo and the Circuit Court which has
its seat there, and of its district.

Chapter 3. Continuing the description of the city of Santo Domingo and the
district of its Circuit Court, on the ecclesiastical side; and of the towns and cities
which have been established on this island.

Chapter 4. Of the island of Puerto Rico and the city which has been founded
there, capital of that diocese.

Chapter 5. Of the island of Margarita in the district of the Diocese of Puerto
Rico; its description, and other matters.

Chapter 6. Of the raid on that island and city, of the rebel commander Lope
de Aguirre; and the way in which they fish for pearls.

Chapter 7. Of the city of Cumana in Nueva Andalucia, and other matters in
its district and state.

Chapter 8. Continuing the description of the district of Cumana, and in
especial, the fort and saltworks of Araya.

Chapter 9. Of the island of Trinidad and city of St. Joseph de Orufia which
is located there.

Chapter 10. Of the island of Trinidad and city of St. Joseph, and the way
they grow and cure tobacco.

Chapter 11. Of the Provinces of Guiana and city of Santo Tomé de Castilla
which has been established there.

Chapter 12. Of the different tribes living on the banks of the River Orinoco,
near the district of Guiana.

Chapter 13. Of the Indian tribe of the Aruacas, valiant beyond the other
Indians, and of their ceremony of commissioning warriors, and of their achieve-
ments and victories over other tribes.

Chapter 14. Of the naval battle fought by the Aruaca tribe against the Carib
tribe of the Garinas.

Chapter 15. Of the rites and customs of the Aruaca tribe.

Chapter 16. Of the ceremony of commissioning warriors in the Carib tribe
and of the mouths of the Orinoco, where they live.

Chapter 17. Of the route they follow in their dugout voyages from Trinidad
to Margarita, and of other features of that country.

Chapter 18. Of the extraordinary fruit growing in the Indies, and of that on
the island of Trinidad.

Chapter 19. Continuing the description of fruit and of other things.

Chapter 20. Of the Provinces of the Cumanagotos and the Palenques.

Chapter 21. Of other rivers between the Orinoco and the Marafion, the homes
of various tribes.

Chapter 22. Of the founding of the city of San Juan de la Laguna de Uchire.

Chapter 23. Of the district of the Provinces of the Diocese and State of
Venezuela.

Chapter 24. Continuing the description of the preceding subject, and other
noteworthy things.

Chapter 25. Of the city of Santiago de Leén de Caracas, of other features of
these provinces, and of the valiant deeds of the Spaniards.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 297

-

Chapter 26. Of the boundaries of these provinces, and of other cities estab-
lished in them.

Chapter 27. Of other cities in this Province of Venezuela.

Chapter 28. Continuing the description of the Provinces of Venezuela, and of
the strange things to be found in its district.

Chapter 29. Of the island of Cuba, its extent, and the cities built there.

Chapter 30. Of the city of St. Augustine, Florida, and its district.

Chapter 31. Of the city and fort of St. Augustine, Florida, and other remark-
able things in these provinces.

Chapter 32. Of many other provinces belonging in the Florida district, and
of the wealth of amber and pearls to be found there, and of their need of a
prelate.

Chapter 33. Continuing the description of the provinces, etc., discussed in the
preceding chapter.

Chapter 34. Of the island of Jamaica, its fertility, and the remarkable things
to be found there.

Chapter 35. Continuing the description of the remarkable features of this
island, and how it was originally a help for further conquests.

Book III deals with the district of the Circuit Court of Mexico
City ; it contains 30 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the Province of Yucatan, its fertility, and its other remarkable
features there.

Chapter 2. Of the foundation of the city of Mérida, and other features of
that country.

Chapter 3. Of the city of Vera Cruz and port of San Juan de Ulloa in the
Diocese of Tlaxcala, and other features of the district. [Marg.: Chap. 4.]
[Marg.: Chap. 3. Of the number of convents, curacies and Indians in this
province. ]

Chapter 4. Continuing the description of the country and of the new Diocese
whose creation has been ordered, to be located in the city of Vera Cruz or the
town of Jalapa, seeing that it is healthier.

Chapter 5. Of the cities of Los Angeles (Puebla), Tlaxcala, and other
features of the district of the Diocese.

Chapter 6. Continuing the description of the chief features of this city and
Diocese, and of other cities.

Chapter 7. Of the city of Tlaxcala and other cities, and of the amount of fine
cochineal gathered in the district, and of the judicial posts filled by the Viceroy
in the district of this Diocese.

Chapter 8. Continuing the description of the district of the Diocese, and of
the Corregidores and Alcaldes Mayores appointed here by the Viceroy.

Chapter 9. Of the great city of Mexico, seat of the Court, and capital of the
Kingdoms of New Spain, and of its foundation and its beginnings in the days of
its heathendom, and of the kings who reigned there, and their dates.

Chapter 10. Of the origin and filiation of the kings and lords who ruled in
New Spain.

Chapter 11. Continuing the story of the filiation of the Mexican kings.

Chapter 12. Continuing the account of the filiation of the Mexican kings.

Chapter 13. Recording the surviving descendants of the kings of Mexico.

Chapter 14. Of the great city of Mexico, of its foundation, and of the omens
which preceded the end of the Mexican monarchy.

208 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

~

Chapter 15. How Fernando Cortés, Marqués del Valle, on learning of that
powerful kingdom, made his entry into it and conquered it, and of the rest that
happened in the siege of Mexico City.

Chapter 16. Continuing the subject of the preceding chapter, and how the
Marqués besieged Mexico City and took it.

Chapter 17. Of the great city of Mexico, and of the sumptuous temples it
contains, and of its environs.

Chapter 18. Of the splendid convents of the religious orders, in the city of
Mexico.

Chapter 19. Continuing the preceding subject, of the convents and nunneries
in the city of Mexico.

Chapter 20. Of the Tribunal of the Holy Inquisition, the University and other
colleges and remarkable establishments of this city of Mexico.

Chapter 21. Of the district of the Archdiocese of Mexico, of the provinces
and cities and other important features.

Chapter 22. Continuing the preceding subject, of the district of the Arch-
diocese of Mexico, and in especial, describing the journey to the Province of
Huaxteca and to Panuco.

Chapter 23. Continuing the description of the Archdiocese of Mexico.

Chapter 24. Of other features of the district of the Archdiocese of Mexico,
and the fruit growing there.

Chapter 25. Of the district of the Diocese of Michoacan.

Chapter 26. Continuing the description of the Diocese and Provinces of the
Kingdom of Michoacan, and of the town of San Luis de Potosi.

Chapter 27. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Michoacan.

Chapter 28. Of the city of Antequera, founded in the valley of Oaxaca [and
of the Alcaldias Mayores and Corregimientos to which the Viceroy appoints in
it] and the district of the Diocese.

Chapter 29. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Oaxaca, and of the
Alcaldias Mayores and Corregimientos to which the Viceroy appoints in it.

Chapter 30. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Oaxaca; and of the
strange caverns to be found there.

Book IV treats of the district of the Circuit Court of Guadalajara ;
it contains nine chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the city of Guadalajara, capital of the Kingdom of New
Galicia, and of other features of its district.

Chapter 2. Continuing the description of the Kingdom of New Galicia and
the district of the Diocese of Guadalajara, and its rich mines.

Chapter 3. Continuing the description of the Kingdom of New Galicia, and
the Kingdom of California.

Chapter 4. Of the Kingdom of New Vizcaya, and of the provinces comprised
within its Diocese and civil administration.

Chapter 5. Continuing the description of New Vizcaya; and of the famous
deeds performed in its pacification by Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado.

Chapter 6. Continuing the exploits of Gov. Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,
with a description of the rest of New Vizcaya, and the exploration of New
Mexico.

Chapter 7. Continuing the preceding subject, and of the favors shown to the
Marqueses of Villamayor, descendants of Francisco Vazquez de Coronado.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 299

Chapter 8. Continuing the description of the Provinces of New Mexico, as
made known by another expedition which took place in the year 1581.

Chapter 9. Continuing the story of the exploration of the Provinces of New
Mexico.

Book V describes the district of the Circuit Court of Santiago de
Guatemala ; it contains 33 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the Royal City of Chiapa, and the district of its Diocese.

Chapter 2. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Chiapas, and its
provinces.

Chapter 3. Of the variety of curious animals and birds to be found in the
district of this Diocese.

Chapter 4. Of the variety of aromatic trees and other sorts; flowers, springs,
and caverns to be found in this district of Chiapas.

Chapter 5. Of the strange serpents, snakes, and worms to be found in this
district.

Chapter 6. Of the city of Guatemala and its district.

Chapter 7. Of the city of Santiago de Guatemala, of its extent and its con-
vents and the other churches it contains.

Chapter 8. Continuing the description of the convents and the extent of this
city.

Chapter 9. Continuing the description of the churches of this city, and other
monuments which aggrandize and ennoble it.

Chapter 10. Continuing the description of Guatemala; its avenues of egress,
and its highways.

Chapter 11. Continuing the description of Guatemala and its district.

Chapter 12. Continuing the description of the Corregimientos of the district
of the Diocese of Guatemala.

Chapter 13. Of the town of Sonsonate and villages of its district, and of other
strange things therein.

Chapter 14. Continuing the description of the remarkable things to be found
in the district of the town of Sonsonate.

Chapter 15. Continuing the description of the district of the Diocese of Guate-
mala, and of the city of San Salvador and its provinces.

Chapter 16. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Guatemala, and of
the city of San Miguel and town of Choluteca.

Chapter 17. Continuing the description of the district of the Diocese of Guate-
mala, and in particular, of the Corregimientos of Chiquimula and Casabastran.

Chapter 18. Of the jiquilite, from which indigo is made, and of other trees
and plants.

Chapter 19. Of other trees and plants unique in the world, and of the way in
which annatto (achiote) is made.

Chapter 20. Of the costumes and customs of the Indians; and of those con-
verted in the days of Dr. Alonso Criado de Castilla; and of other features of
that country.

Chapter 21. Of the Diocese of Comayagua, and the foundation of the city of
Valladolid.

Chapter 22. Continuing the description of the Diocese, and the provinces and
cities of Honduras.

300 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Chapter 23. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Honduras, and in
particular, of the mines of Tegucigalpa.

Chapter 24. Concluding the description of the Diocese of Honduras.

Chapter 25. Of the Provinces and New Kingdom of Leon, of Nicaragua, and
of the city of Granada which was founded there.

Chapter 26. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Nicaragua, its Prov-
inces and Corregimientos.

Chapter 27. Continuing the description of the district of the Corregimiento of
the port of Realejo, and in particular, of the village and Province of El Viejo.

Chapter 28. Of the Corregimiento and district of the village and Province
of Quezalguaque and Sutiaba, and city of Leon.

Chapter 29. Continuing the preceding subject; and of the end which the
Contreras met; and of the city of Leon, and other events.

Chapter 30. Of the Corregimiento of Monimbé and villages of its district,
and of the Corregimiento of Chontales.

Chapter 31. Of the Provinces of Costa Rica and its administration, and of
the Alcaldia Mayor of the port of Nicoya.

Chapter 32. Of the volcanoes emitting flame, to be found in these provinces
and the others in the Indies.

Chapter 33. Continuing the subject of volcanoes: what they are, and what
their origin is.

Book VI deals with the district of the Circuit Court of the Philip-
pine Islands, whose seat is in the city of Manila; it contains six
chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the route followed to the Philippines, and of the island of
Luzon, where the city of Manila was built.

Chapter 2. Of the famous city of Manila, court city and capital of the
Philippine Islands; and of its foundation.

Chapter 3. Continuing the description of Manila and of the extensive com-
merce it carries on; and of the other Dioceses of these islands.

Chapter 4. Of other islands, in which diamonds and other precious stones are
found; and of the delicious fruit growing in the Philippine Islands.

Chapter 5. Of the Molucca Islands, Ternate and Tidore, and the others, and
the strange things to be found in them.

Chapter 6. Continuing the description of the Moluccas, and in particular ot
Tidore; and of the clove tree, and other spices.

Enp or Parr I

iin

Part II

Book I

Which Describes the District of the Circuit Court of Panama.

CHAPTER [|

Of the City of Panama, and the Circuit Court Established There.

886. The city of Panama is at 9° N. It was founded by Pedro
Arias Davila when he was Governor of Nueva Castilla del Oro, in the
year 1519, on the Pacific coast, at the water’s edge. It is a port and
the chief transshipping point for all the kingdoms of Peru, at which
they disembark all the gold and silver coming from there for Spain,
and load all the merchandise coming from Spain for those kingdoms.

887. This city has more than 500 Spanish residents, not counting
the transients and all the service rabble, free Negroes, and mulattoes.
All the streets start at the harbor and run E. and W., so that the
winds (which blow ordinarily N. and S.) may cool them from both
sides—all except two streets, those of Santo Domingo and of Cala-
fates, and they are hotter for that reason. It has a hot, damp climate
but although it has had the name of being unhealthy, it is not. It is
built, as I have stated, at the water’s edge, and along the seashore,
so that when one comes by boat from Peru, it looms up very extensive
and attractive, although it is built practically altogether of planking ;
from the sea it looks like a large city, because the house plots are
ample and spacious, on account of the heat, and for that reason they
cover much ground and space. It is abundantly supplied with all the
varieties of fruit found in the Indies; of Spanish sorts they raise
only grapes, figs, melons, and pomegranates, two crops a year, the
climate being hot and moist; they have some Spanish vegetables ;
corn is raised in large quantity, and is shipped in by boat, being
indispensable both as food for the inhabitants and for the great num-
bers of mules which serve for the transportation from Panama to
Puerto Bello, which is one of the busiest routes in the world. Excellent
beef and veal are to be had in quantity, and other provisions and
luxuries—flour, preserves, etc.—come from the valleys of Peru, Lima,
Trujillo, Safa, and other points.

888. The Circuit Court has its seat in this city; it is the oldest
of those established on the Spanish Main. It usually has a Presi-
dent, who is the Governor and Captain General, four Justices, who

301

302 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

are likewise Alcaldes de Corte, an Attorney and Secretaries, a Relator,
and the other necessary functionaries and officials. The district of
this Circuit Court, originally called Nueva Castilla del Oro del Reyno
de Tierra-Firme, is bounded on the E. by Darién; in that quarter
it borders on the Dioceses of Cartagena and Popayan of the district
of the Circuit Court of the New Kingdom of Granada. From Darién
it runs along some narrow mountain ranges from E. to W..; at their
widest it is not over 40 leagues across; they are narrowest between
Panama and Puerto Bello. On that side this kingdom runs parallel
for some 360 leagues (up to its frontier against Costa Rica) with
the Diocese of Nicaragua and the Circuit Court of Guatemala. And
although it is true that the Emperor Charles V, of glorious memory,
assigned to this Circuit Court on the E. up to Buena Ventura, and
on the W., Nicaragua, these two territories are subject: Buena Ven-
tura, to the Circuit Court of Bogota, and Nicaragua to the Circuit
Court of Guatemala, both because they were closer to the courts
mentioned, and because it was more suitable from the nature of the
country.

889. This city of Panama contains the Cathedral; the Bishop and
Prebendaries who reside there and conduct its services, are suffragan
to the Archdiocese of Lima in Peru. The city has Dominican, Fran-
ciscan, Mercedarian, Augustinian Recollect, and Jesuit convents, a
nunnery called La Concepcion, and an excellent hospital for the care
of the indigent sick, with other churches and pilgrimage shrines.
It was from this city that valiant Don Francisco Pizarro sailed,
that glory and honor of our nation, to explore and conquer the rich
and opulent kingdoms of Peru. In this exploration he suffered great
hardships, as is told by the ancient historians, and among the moderns,
by Francisco Caro de Torres, of the Military Orders; then he went
to Spain, and in the year 1530, he returned to carry out his conquest,
bringing with him many cavaliers from his home region, and among
them, his brother Fernando Pizarro, who was of great aid to him
in the conquest, and in what happened later.

890. The city has a lively trade with the kingdoms of Peru,
Nicaragua, and Guatemala; in fine, it is a market through which
everybody passes, and so its inhabitants are traders and merchants.
They have ships and frigates which are made and built on its coast
and in its district, and which they utilize in commerce to ship and
transport the products of the country, in which they make large
profits. The country has many woods and groves, so that it appears
like a bit of Paradise, except that its rivers produce the ferocious
alligators or Nile crocodiles.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 303

CHAPTER II

Continuing the Description of the District of the Circuit Court of
Panama; and in Particular, of the City of Puerto Bello.

891. The city of Puerto Bello is where the galleons come to trans-
port the silver from Peru to Spain. It is 80 leagues’ sail from
Cartagena. The first to discover it was the Admiral Don Cristobal
Colon, but Diego de Nicuesa was the first to settle Nombre de Dios,
in the year 1510; later, a settlement was again made there by Diego
de Albites, by order of Gov. Pedro Arias; but since it was very
unhealthy and not so convenient, this city of Nombre de Dids was
relocated at Puerto Bello, a healthier and safer spot, and with a deep
harbor, by Don Alonso de Sotomayor in the year 1596; he had been
a wise and courageous Governor both in peace and war, having
beaten the corsairs and caught and chastised the fugitive Negroes.

892. The city will contain 150 houses of Spaniards, free Negroes,
and mulattoes. It has large stocks of merchandise from the fleets
and galleons, and from other quarters. Its climate is hot and damp;
it generally rains hard most of the year, and the drops of water after
falling turn into little toads. It has been a very unhealthy place, and
the graveyard of Spaniards, particularly those new arrivals who are
so incautious as to eat fruit and do other imprudent things. At
present it is healthier than it used to be, for they have cleared it out
and built more houses, which experience has shown is a good thing.
It has a parish church and a small Mercedarian convent.

893. It gets most of its provisions by cart; the meat comes from
Panama, for the two herds or ranches which there are near the city,
serve merely for the luxury of milk and an occasional veal calf.
The country is heavily wooded and so prolific that it seems a bit of
Paradise. Practically everything planted there runs to growth and
does not fruit; rice does yield very well, and many varieties of fruit
such as bananas, pineapples, aguacates, sugarcane, excellent oranges
and lemons, and other fruit.

894. Most of its provisions come to it by cart, from Suerre, Coche,
and other points; and while the galleons are in port, a fowl sells
for 2 or 3 reals (at 8 to the peso) ; flour, preserves, and other luxuries
come to it from Panama, imported from the valleys of Peru. Along
the Atlantic coast there is no other city or settlement, and their only
communications are with the galleons, and Cartagena, and some
frigates coming from Nicaragua with provisions and other local
products.

895. The fleets and galleons anchor at this port; here they take
on the gold, silver, and other valuables which are brought from the

304 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Kingdoms of Peru. This is all disembarked at Panama and carried
overland to Puerto Bello, 8 leagues—though the woods road is so
rough and winding that it comes to 18 leagues. The transport is by
mules; some of the muleteers have become very rich and important,
and have acquired large troops of mules and much property with
their gains; in fact, at the season of the fleet, the hire of a mule for
the 18 leagues comes to 25 or 30 pesos. There is transportation also
by the Rio de Chagre. This rises 3 leagues from Panama in its hills,
near the Pacific, but runs to the Atlantic, gathering in almost all the
other streams on its way as it bursts through all the mountain barriers
and is a navigable river when it reaches the Atlantic. They transport
merchandise on it in boats ordinarily rowed by 20 Negroes. The
mouth of this Rio de Chagre, on which these goods are freighted,
lies 8 leagues W. of Puerto Bello; there is a fort at the river’s
mouth with six large bronze cannon, with its Warden or Captain,
and soldiers of the garrison, for the defense of the river entrance.
They go up this river 16 leagues by dint of rowing, up to the Casa
de Cruces; there they unload the freight and carry it 5 leagues on
muleback to Panama.

896. The city of Puerto Bello has two forts or castles; one is at
the entrance or mouth of the harbor, named San Felipe, with its
Warden and 60 soldiers in garrison, plus the gunners and other
assistants and artisans, and with excellent bronze artillery. The
castle of Santiago is at the approach to the city; it has an enrollment
of 125, not counting the Captain, gunners, assistants, and artisans,
with excellent heavy bronze artillery. The city has an Alcalde Mayor,
appointed by the President. Half a league from Puerto Bello is the
village of the free Negro hangers-on (Mogollones), with their
Spanish Captain, who is the administrative officer for these Negroes.
They are occupied with service and supplies for the city, and in seeing
that no Negro runs away from his master, for they catch him im-
mediately. These Negroes have been of value on many occasions,
for besides being skillful workers and herdsmen in the country, they
are brave and loyal in His Majesty’s service.

CHAPTER III

Continuing the Description of the District of the Circuit Court
of Panama; and of Some Spanish Settlements Established in Its
Provinces.

897. Two leagues from Panama is the island and port of Perico;
since that sea is shallow, and the coast runs out gradually, large ships

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 305

anchor there. In its districts it has many islands, with fine large
pearl beds, from which they have gathered, and still gather, many
fine large ones.

898. Starting the district of the Circuit Court at Darién, which
is 200 leagues E. of Panama: the whole country in this quarter is
occupied by hostile Indians. It is true that at the mouth of the Rio
del Darién the city of Nuestra Sefiora del Antigua was established.
It was from there that Commander Vasco Nufiez de Balboa set out
when he conquered rich provinces and discovered the Pacific. He
was so valiant a gentleman that for his deeds he deserved great
rewards and honors; but his father-in-law Pedro Arias de Avila had
him unjustly beheaded, in a village called Acla, at the entrance to
the Gulf of Uraba. This has now been abandoned, for it was not
right that a place should remain standing where such an injustice
had been committed as to take the life of a gentleman who, besides
his many other merits and his conquest of so many tribes, was the
first who through his valor and his invincible spirit, discovered the
Pacific and left his fame immortal, as is said in his praise by Dr.
Solorzano in his “De Jure Indiarum,” book I, chapter 5, Nos. 27-28,
on folio 53.

899. The Cathedral of Panama was originally in the city of Nuestra
Senora del Antigua; it was, and is, one of the most ancient in the
Indies. When the city of Antigua was abandoned, they moved and
transferred the church to Panama. Between Darien and Panama,
at 40 leagues from the latter city, a settlement had been established,
with some sawmills and cattle ranches, at a point called Del Vallano ;
but in the year 1611, when Don Francisco de Valverde was President
of that Circuit Court, the 30 soldiers of their garrison having been
withdrawn, the hostile Indians descended on them several times and
massacred the Spaniards and slaves who were living on these ranches
and farms, so that it was all completely abandoned, and is today,
up to the city of Chepo, which is 12 leagues from Panama. And
although the Supreme Council of the Indies by unanimous resolution
in the year 1621 made provision and issued orders that this garrison
should be renewed and restored, the President and Sergeant Major
then in office unjustly countermanded the orders and would not let
Capt. Jeronimo Ferron Barragan carry them out, the highly suitable
person whom the Council had sent for that purpose ; hence this piece
of land which is the best in all the province, is abandoned and at
the mercy of hostile Indians, as has been stated.

900. Twelve leagues before Panama is Chepo, an Indian settlement
existing ever since the discovery of the country; these have lost

21

306 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

their native language and speak ours. It is a village of little over
30 houses; all that district, as far as the sea and the mountains, is
thickly covered with herds or ranches of cattle, fields of corn, and
sawmills turning out planks, beams, and other lumber for ships and
for export to Lima; there are likewise some sugar mills; so it runs
all the 12 leagues to Panama.

901. Proceeding W. from Panama, at 30 leagues comes the city
of Nata, an Indian and Spanish settlement; it is small, but well
supplied with provisions, and very attractive, so that it seems like
a garden. Eight leagues farther on is the town of Los Santos, a
settlement with 200 Spanish residents, and with abundant supplies
and conveniences; nearby is the Indian village of Parita, where all
the Indians talk Spanish, having forgotten their native mother tongue.
In this district lie the Indian villages of Coclé and Penonomé, whose
Indians are civilized and good fighters. The President of Panama
appoints a Corregidor for this district, for its good government and
the administration of justice. This district borders on that of the
State and Province of Veragua.

CuHaptTer [V

Which Gives a Description of the Provinces of Veragua, and the
Cities Established There.

902. Ten leagues beyond the town of Santos, to the W., and
48 from Panama, begins the Province and State of Veragua. Here
His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies,
appoints a Governor with the title of Captain General, for its good
government and the administration of justice, and with the power
of assigning Indians, although the assignments are poor and insignifi-
cant, there being very few natives, most having gone back to their
heathendom. But the present Governor, Don Juan Cortés de Monroy,
Knight of the Order of Santiago and son of the Militia Captain of
the Kingdom of Chile, Pedro Cortés de Monroy, was brought up in
the Chile Indian wars and is doing well in the conversion of the
Indians, bringing many to the knowledge of our Holy Faith.

903. All this Province and State has few natives but great wealth
in gold ore; it is all paved with this metal; the rivers and streams
carry it; but since there is nobody to do the washing and extraction,
they get little profit from this wealth. There are many sawmills for
valuable timber, like cedar and other highly prized wood; they turn
out planks, beams, and other lumber, which is exported to Lima.
The sawmills in this province are the largest and best on the Pacific

a

ri i i tl

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 307

coast ; in these and the others under this jurisdiction there are more
than 4,000 Negro sawyers and workmen employed only in this work
and in building ships and frigates, for there are fine and famous
shipyards in this Province of Veragua and its Pacific coast.

904. This province contains quantities of excellent pasturage for
cattle and swine. The capital of this Province and State is the city
of Santa Fé, which has as many as 30 Spanish residents and some
Indians. Nine leagues farther on is the new village of Los Remedios,
with as many as 80 houses, of Spaniards and Indians. El Montijo
lies another 9 leagues beyond; and at 20 leagues along the same
route W. and parallel, is the city of Santiago de Aljanje, called
Chiriqui, built on the banks of its river, which gives it its name.
The city contains as many as 80 Spanish residents and some Indians.

905. All these places mentioned were established on the Pacific
coast, because most of the country N. is in hostile Indian territory,
except for a few small camps, of which the rich mines discovered
there have occasioned the rise and the disappearance. The city of
Chiriqui is the last settlement in the Province and State of Veragua,
for all the territory W., up to the Province of Costa Rica, belongs
to heathen Indians. These give passage and provisions to the traders
traversing those provinces with mules and other goods, taking their
pay in knives, machetes, axes, and other commodities. From Chiriqui
to Costa Rica it is 125 leagues; practically all of this is inhabited by
heathen Indians.

906. Near these Provinces of Veragua lie those of Guaimi and
Duy on the Atlantic coast, through which the Rio de La Estrella
flows; this is very rich in gold, as is all its mining region. These
Provinces of Guaimi and Duy border on the extensive Province of
Tegucigalpa, which is very rich in gold and other valuables. The
Indians are quite civilized, and have the same dress and customs as
the Mexicans.

907. There are in Panama Royal Officials, viz: Paymaster, Trea-
surer, and Factor. These administer the Royal Patrimony in the
district of this Circuit Court, and go down to Puerto Bello for the
arrival and departure of the galleons.

Book II

Of the Circuit Court of Santa Fé de Bogota, of the New Kingdom
of Granada.

CHAPTER [|

Of the City of Cartagena and What It Contains ; and When That
Country Was Discovered.

908. The city of Cartagena in the Indies is 1,500 leagues’ sail
from Spain. The first to see and discover this country was Capt.
Rodrigo de Bastidas, in the year 1502; in 1504 Luis Guerra and Juan
de la Cosa made a beginning of its conquest; and for a period of 28
years this Juan de La Cosa and Alonso de Ojeda were engaged in
subjugating the country; it was then that they employed Americus
Vespuccius as pilot. But they, like others who worked so long in
this task, accomplished nothing of importance. Finally in the year
1532 Commander Don Pedro de Heredia, a native of Madrid, came
out as Governor and with great courage and persistence subdued
and pacified part of the country, and settled and established this city
of Cartagena, after having great battles with the Indians, who were
more warlike and courageous in the defense of their country than
any others who had been seen or encountered up to that time; in
fact, among them was an Indian girl of not over 18 who before they
seized and captured her, had killed eight Spaniards with her bow
and arrows, and done other marvelous deeds.

909. The city is built by the sea, at the water’s edge, 2 leagues
from the Punta de La Canoa, to its W. It has a flat and sandy
location, and is an island; on the N. it is surrounded by the sea,
with a rough and shallow coast; on the land side there is an arm of
the sea, which extends to La Ciénega (the swamp), with its lagoon
Canapote, which rises and falls the same as the sea.

910. This city is not only built on a sandbank at 11° N., but has
a hot and damp climate. It is the residence of the Governor and the
Bishop of those provinces, and is one of the busiest trading ports
in the Indies ; they come here from many of the inland provinces of
the New Kingdom of Granada, from the whole coast of the Spanish
Main, from Nicaragua and other points, with supplies and other
merchandise; and in the harbor, which is the westernmost of the
mainland, the silver fleets and galleons take up anchorage.

308

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 309

911. At the entrance to the harbor it has an island, like the Carta-
gena in Spain, but larger, for it is 2 leagues long and half a league
wide. In time past they called this island Codego; now it is known
as Cajes. When the Spaniards discovered and conquered this country,
it was thickly populated and inhabited by fishermen, though without
water; and so from the resemblance of the island with that of
Cartagena in Spain, they named their city Cartagena; it has hard
water and its winds are salubrious breezes. It has abundant supplies
of fish and beef ; their pork is healthful, since they feed it to invalids
and it acts as a laxative.

912. The city contains more than 1,500 Spanish residents, not
counting mestizos, mulattoes, free Negroes and other categories, and
the population is increasing; and since the whole island where the
city is built, is occupied, they have started another settlement a stone’s
throw from the main one. This is called Gegemani, and is already
considerably the larger; one enters and leaves it by a causeway run-
ning its entire length.

913. The city is surrounded by a wall on every side, and the
entrance to the harbor is defended by the fort of San Matias, and
opposite it, connected with the island which they call Naba, is the
fortress platform. And at one side of the fort of San Matias there
is another fort called Del Judio, and at the end of the other side,
the fort they call Oribe; and back of Gegemani there is another
stretch of wall with its stronghold, with two pieces of artillery ; and
at the weakest points they have built two bulwarks and towers, which
are very strong and well finished; one is called Santa Catalina, and
the other, Santo Domingo. In all these forts and on the fortified
towers and walls, there are 50 pieces of artillery, of excellent bronze
and of all sizes.

CHAPTER II

Which Continues the Description of Cartagena.

914, The city possesses its own mansion, home of the Governor,
who is also Captain General. Here are the guardroom and the city
prison; every afternoon the company mounts guard here, with a
garrison of 400 infantry, a Sergeant Major, and 2 Captains, whose
squads man the towers, the half-moon of Oribe, and other posts ;
and one squad each month mans the forts and the platform.

915. The city possesses an armory, with many muskets, harque-
busses, lances, and pikes, with a powder magazine; besides which,
there are five local infantry Militia Captains, with excellent soldiers,
for the citizens with their constant training are very expert militia-

310 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

men. There is another company, of cavalry, with very fine troopers
and horses. There is another company of free creole colored men,
with a Captain appointed by His Majesty and 600 soldiers, as good
as Spaniards and in their very image. These are employed in the
handling of the artillery and other matters in His Majesty’s service,
like trench and fascine work.

916. There are Royal Apartments for the Judges and Royal
Officials ; a mole and a customhouse, where they store the merchandise
of the fleets and other ships and frigates coming from all points.
There is much commerce in this city and port, with Peru, the Spanish
Main, New Spain, the Windward Islands, and Angola, from which
every year 10 or 12 ships with Negroes arrive, and almost as many
from Cape Verde and the Guinea rivers.

917. It has a very good Cathedral, of distinguished architecture,
with the Bishop, Prebendaries, and much clergy in attendance. There
is a very sumptuous Dominican convent; a Franciscan, called San
Diego, of excellent design and architecture, erected at his own expense
by Capt. Gramajo; an Augustinian, another excellent one of the
Mercedarians, and a very good Jesuit establishment. There is a
hospital with rooms for the sick and the injured, and others for
maternity cases and for tumors (syphilis) and for salivations. There
is a nunnery of Barefoot Carmelites, founded by Dofia Maria de
Barros; another nunnery, of Santa Clara; and in the other settle-
ment of Gegemani there is a very elaborate and interesting Franciscan
convent ; another hospital, Espiritu Santo, for incurables ; and outside
of the city, another hospital, which they call San Lazaro, for the
injured; and half a league off, on top of the hill which they call the
Popa de La Galera (Galley Poop) is the convent of Nuestra Sefiora
de la Candelaria of Augustinian Recollect friars, which is very strict.

918. At its beginning and foundation, the city was very small and
its buildings very humble, of cane plastered with clay outside—what
they call bajareque in that country—and for roof covering, straw
or palm leaves; even today some such still exist in some quarters
of the outlying wards. But the excellence of the harbor and the
number of galleons, fleets, ships, and frigates flocking from every
side to the lively commerce of this famous city and port, have con-
tributed to its great increase, and it continues to grow in population
and wealth; and since it is one of the best and busiest cities in the
Indies, I shall say something of its republic, government, and tri-
bunals, in the following chapter, with the remainder of its district.

(
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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 311

CHAPTER III

Of What Remains To Be Said of the Government of the City,
and of the District of Its Diocese.

919. The Governor appoints a Lieutenant General, and takes cog-
nizance of matters pertaining to the government, war, and the preser-
vation of the Indians; his lieutenant or he attend in person to the
clearing of ships. The Sergeant Major of the garrison has jurisdiction
over controversies among the soldiers and over the two Captains,
whose nomination lies with the Governor and the War Council (Junta
de Guerra) of the Indies.

920. There are 2 regular Alcaldes, and 2 of the Hermandad
(Confraternity), an Alguacil Mayor (Head Constable), and 12
Regidores (Aldermen), with a Receiver General (Depositario), At-
torney General (Procurador), and Secretary of the Council, in which
the Governor and Alcaldes have no vote. The Lieutenant General
and Alcaldes are such as one finds elsewhere, both the regular ones
and those of the Hermandad; appeals from their decisions, if for
any considerable amount, go to the Circuit Court at Bogota.

921. The Judges and Royal Officials handle cases dealing with
ships, putting in under stress, legal discharge of cargo, disposition of
smuggled goods, customs fraud, and other matters pertaining to the
payment of the royal revenues; appeal is taken from their decision
to the Circuit Court at Bogota; and in this instance the case is tried
before them, and the Lieutenant General, being a lawyer, is their
counsel.

922. The Galley Chief (Cabo de la Galera) has jurisdiction over
matters and cases pertaining to the galleys and their soldiers; he has
his Auditor, Inspector (Veedor), and Paymaster ; appeals from their
decisions are taken to the Royal Council of the Indies, the War
Council, and (in some cases) the Circuit Court.

923. There is a Tribunal of the Holy Office with two Inquisitors,
an Attorney, and a Secretary and other functionaries. There is
a Tribunal of the Holy Crusade with its functionaries; appeals are
taken from it to the Tribunal Mayor of Bogota. There is an Episcopal
Tribunal with its Provisor and Vicar General, Attorney, Notaries,
Chief Constable (Alguacil Mayor), and other functionaries ; appeals
from their decisions must be tried before the Circuit Court of Bogota
in the New Kingdom of Granada, which is 200 leagues away. This
inconvenience is such that it should be considered and remedied, for
this city is so important that it could well have its own Circuit Court,
or one could move that of Bogota here, or that of Santo Domingo ;

312 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

it would be more accessible from all sides, and many evils would
be obviated which now are suffered by poor people who cannot afford
such a long journey for their relief. Or one could take one Justice
from each Circuit Court to take up residence in this city. Santa
Marta is only 30 leagues away, to the E.; part of its administrative
district comes under Bogota, which is 200 leagues off; but part of
this district of Santa Marta, viz, the Rio de la Hacha, which is 35
leagues distant from this city, comes under the Circuit Court of Santo
Domingo. This would all be remedied if one of these Circuit Courts
mentioned should be transferred to Cartagena, or if one Justice should
be taken from each of them, and thus a new Circuit Court formed.
That would put an end to great inconveniences and everything would
be settled reasonably.

924. The Diocese of Cartagena has for its district, running E. and
W., from the great Rio de La Magdalena, which is its boundary with
that of Santa Marta, up to the Rio Darién on the W., a distance of
80 leagues ; it is another 80 leagues from N. to S., up to the town
of Mompos, a settlement of the Commander Don Pedro de Heredia,
as is likewise the town of Toll, where they gather very fragrant
balsam, dragon’s blood, and other medicinal resins and extracts. The
whole country is heavily wooded; there are many valuable trees and
timbers ; bees make quantities of wild honey there; there are many
different kinds of animals and birds, impossible to enumerate.

925. Communication is had by the great Rio de La Magdalena,
which is inland from the city, with the port of La Barranca at 18
leagues distance; there they disembark what is transported from
Tenerife, Mompos, Ocafia, Zaragoza, Guamaco, Bogota, and all the
New Kingdom of Granada; and by the same great river and port
they embark on boats the passengers, merchandise, etc.; so that this
city is rich and well supplied and keeps growing in population and
fine buildings. The harbor of Santa Marta lies 30 leagues to its E.,
and that of Puerto Bello 80 leagues W.

926. It contains in its district a great many farms where they plant
and harvest quantities of corn and of yucca for cassava; there are
large cattle ranches, and many varieties of fruit: of Spanish sorts,
grapes, pomegranates, and. figs; of native kinds, bananas, pineapples,
mammees, guavas, custard-apples, sweet and sour oranges, very large
and good, limes, and lemons. There are excellent truck gardens where
they raise all sorts of Spanish and native vegetables.

927. On the farms they raise much poultry, but since it does not
suffice for the needs of the city’s large population, trading boats go
to the Province of Uraba, which belongs to hostile Indians, to get

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA SS

poultry in exchange for deep-sea coral, axes, machetes, knives, and
other things. From the town of Tolt come frigates loaded with fat
hogs, tortoises, poultry, bananas, planks, and other things for the
provisioning of the city.

928. There are other farms, called Bart, on islands at 6 and 7
leagues from the city, and on what is called the Isla Fuerte, at 14
leagues; from all of these they bring by boat the crops they raise
there, for the city’s supplies. Half a league away is the Ciénega
(Swamp) called Tesca, from which they provide themselves with
fish, which are abundant there—robalos, lebranches, lisas, mojarras,
large sabalos (shad) and many other varieties of excellent fish.
During the rainy season this swamp overflows and communicates
with the sea, at which time it is impossible to cross it, for it is very
deep; the sea fish then run in to spawn, and while the water rises,
the force of the sea breeze closes the inlet, so that it stays full of
fish and abundantly supplied.

929. Inland there are excellent Indian villages, where they grow
quantities of corn and raise much poultry and swine. The village
of Tubara nets its encomendero 6,000 pesos a year. It was here
that the curate and missionary was the glorious Padre San Luis
Beltran; he taught the natives of this village and neighborhood
Christian doctrine and good morals, like a real master and minister
of the Gospel.

930. The Indian village of Sipacua is larger than Tubara, and
nets over 8,000 pesos annually. That of Malambo is 26 leagues from
Cartagena and 2 from the Rio Grande (de La Magdalena) ; from
its harbor one travels by boat to Santa Marta, sailing 16 leagues.
This suffices to describe the Diocese of Cartagena and all that is in it.

CuaptTer IV

Of the City of Santa Marta and the District of Its Diocese and
State.

931. The city of Santa Marta lies 30 leagues E. of Cartagena, at
10° N. These provinces were discovered and subdued by the Com-
mander Rodrigo de Bastidas, and in the year 1524 he founded here
the city of Santa Marta, in level country on the seashore. It has
a famous harbor, one of the best in the Indies; it has a hot climate,
but healthy, because of the breezes which usually blow here. At the
start the city was well settled, for the country is rich and prolific;
but it has gone downhill, its residents leaving the city and deserting
the country on account of the exactions which the governors have

314 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

been in the habit of making. At present it will have as many as 60
residents. It is the residence of the Governor and the Bishop of
these provinces, and has an excellent Cathedral and two convents,
a Dominican and a Franciscan.

932. The city has abundant, cheap, and delicious supplies of meat,
fish, corn, cassava, and bread from flour made in this same State.
Its chief commerce is in small amounts of pearls gathered there,
brazilwood, guaiacum, very fine henequen fiber, both loose and made
into thread, tobacco, some gold and silver from this same State, and
other valuables. It has an excellent fort for its defense, with some
pieces of bronze artillery. It is the residence of the Royal Officials,
Paymaster and Treasurer, for all the provinces of the State.

933. The district of this Diocese and State is over 70 leagues
wide along the seacoast E. and W., from the Rio Grande (de La
Magdalena) which divides it from the territory of Cartagena on
the W., to the Rio de La Hacha on the E., its boundary with the
Diocese of Venezuela. It is 128 leagues long inland, with Io small
cities with Spanish residents in its district. This Diocese is suffragan
to that of Bogota, which bounds it on the S.

934. Two leagues away from Santa Marta, the Sierra Nevada
begins, and runs over 40 leagues, to the Upar Valley. On account
of this Sierra Nevada, although Santa Marta has a hot climate, the
water is cold and delicious. It has great abundance of fruit, like
bananas, aguacates, pineapples, and many sorts of sweet potatoes.
The chief provinces of this District and State are Posiguay, Vetona,
Chimila, and Tayrona; but the natives have fallen off greatly in
numbers.

935. The city of La Ramada is 25 leagues E. of Santa Marta;
it has only a few residents, who are busied with their herds of cattle.
Ten leagues beyond this city, and thirty-five from Santa Marta, is
the city of Rio de la Hacha, which is one of the best and richest
in this State. It has over 100 Spanish residents, a parish church,
2 convents, a Dominican and a Franciscan, and a hospital in which
they care for the indigent sick. It has a good fort with four heavy
bronze pieces, with a Warden appointed by His Majesty in consulta-
tion with the Supreme Council of the Indies, and with a garrison of
soldiers for the defense of the city. There are here a Paymaster and
Treasurer of the Royal Patrimony, appointed by His Majesty in
consultation with the Royal Council. There are many rivers in the
district of this city; (although it is in the State and Diocese of
Santa Marta, it falls in the district of the Circuit Court of Bogota).

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 315

This city and district of Rio de la Hacha belong to the Circuit
Court of Santo Domingo.

936. The products of this city are quantities of hides dressed here,
brazilwood, guaiacum, and other valuables; they get many pearls in
its district. The pearl beds where they get them lie 8, 10, 12, and 16
leagues off, up to the Cape of La Vela. In their exploitation there
are at present engaged seven boats of Negroes who fish for them.
In fact, this specialty forms the greatest wealth of the Indies, and
they get them in quantities in the district of this city.

CHAPTER V

Continuing the Description of the District of the State of Santa
Marta and the Other Cities Which Have Been Established in Its
Provinces.

937. Thirty-two leagues S. of Santa Marta lies the city of Los
Reyes in the Upar Valley, founded by Capt. Santana at the command
of Licentiate Miguel Diaz de Almendariz when he was Governor
of those provinces. The city of Los Reyes contains as many as 40
Spanish residents, with a parish church and a Dominican convent.
Their chief occupation is with their herds of cattle and some farming.

938. Four leagues S. of the city of Los Reyes is the city of Nombre
de Jesus, with some 30 Spanish residents. They have herds of cattle
and raise quantities of wheat in the sierra; they cart the flour in to
Cartagena and Santa Marta. In the district of this city there are
silver mines in operation. It has likewise very rich copper mines in
this Upar Valley, which are among the richest known of this metal.
The division line between these two cities, Los Reyes and Jestis, is
the Rio de Cezar ; on the other side of it runs the Cordillera Nevada,
down to the Straits of Magellan, over 1,500 leagues. This Rio de
Cezar has Tupes Indians living along it, of the Carib family; these
could easily be converted and brought to the knowledge of our Holy
Faith. Among these savages in the early days the city of Becerril
de Campos was established ; at that time most of them were Christians,
and it is a pity that they are in their heathendom among so many
provinces of Christians. The land is very fertile and highly suitable
for cattle ranches, wheat and other crops; but through our negli-
gence, neither the land nor the Indians are of any advantage. It was
through this province that Commander Gonzalo Ximénez de Quesada
passed, on his way to the conquest of the New Kingdom of Granada.

939. The city of Sevilla is 14 leagues from Santa Marta, with a
few Spanish residents. The country is very rich in gold ore; all the

316 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

rivers carry it in abundance, but they fail to take out and enjoy this
great wealth through lack of labor. The city of Cordoba is 4 leagues
W. of Santa Marta; from there one goes to the Indian village of
La Ciénega, where they take boats and travel on the Rio Grande
de La Magdalena to the town of Tenerife, which will have 40 Spanish
residents, and is 30 leagues S. of Santa Marta. From this city they
ship its fruit, poultry, preserves, and other luxuries to Zaragoza.
Thirty leagues S. of Tenerife is the city of Tamalameque, with as
many as 10 Spanish residents. From Tamalameque one sails 30
leagues up the Rio Grande de La Magdalena to the port of Ocana ;
and from this port it is 18 leagues’ land journey to the city of Ocana,
which has over 100 Spanish residents. The chief commerce of its
citizens is in wheat, sugar, preserves, and other luxuries which they
ship to Cartagena and to the new mining camp of Guamaco, near
Zaragoza, which has yielded, and still yields, great wealth of gold.

940. This is the district of the Diocese and State of Santa Marta:
on the W. it is bounded by that of Cartagena, divided only by the
Rio Grande, and Ocafia, which belongs to this district of Santa
Marta; on the S. it borders on the city of Pamplona, of the Arch-
diocese of the New Kingdom of Granada; on the E. it touches the
Diocese of Venezuela with the Lake of Maracaibo dividing them,
which is 30 leagues from the Rio de la Hacha; one passes from one
State to the other over the prairies of Orino, where there are countless
stray and wild mares. At 8 leagues from Orino are the Guajijos
Indians, idolatrous heathen, who could easily be converted to the
Faith; these go naked, both men and women, wearing nothing but
a bit of cloth over their loins.

941. The clothing of the Indians of the Diocese and State of Santa
Marta consists of shirts and painted cotton blankets; they wear gold
earhoops (orejeras), bits of gold in their nostrils, gold plaques and
eagles on their breasts, with pebble bracelets, and gold pieces on
their wrists and insteps. The caciques and principal men with more
wealth than the others, wear also fine round precious stones and gold
jewels. The Indian women wear petticoats and painted cotton blan-
kets, lavishly adorned and decorated with gold jewelry and other
precious stones.

CHAPTER VI

Of the City of Santa Fé de Bogota, Its Foundation and Extent,
and of Other Features of These Provinces.

942. The city of Santa Fé de Bogota, court city and capital of
the New Kingdom of Granada, is named Bogota after the powerful

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA S17

monarch or king who was ruling when Commander Gonzalo Ximénez
de Quesada came through the Sierras de Opon in the year 1536 on his
expedition for the conquest of those kingdoms and provinces. It
took him 2 years to subdue and pacify the territories of the great
monarch Bogota, who enjoyed great authority and majesty, and had
400 wives; those of the great monarch Tunja, his neighbor, with
whom he had controversies and wars; they were all of the Moxca
tribe; and the provinces of the savage and warlike Panches, a brutish,
fierce, and cannibal tribe, and therefore feared by all the surrounding
peoples. He conquered and pacified these provinces, and saw the
great native settlements they contained, and how rich they were in
gold, silver, emeralds, and other valuables, and the favorable climate
and nature of the soil.

943. In the year 1538 he founded and established the city in a
plain under the slopes of a sierra ; two ravines run down from it, each
with a small stream in it rising on the mountain; one is named the
Rio de San Francisco, the other the Rio de San Agustin ; they enclose
the city between them, one passing on each side of it; they have
built two fine bridges to cross them.

944, The city will contain 2,000 Spanish residents, not counting
the many natives who live there, the rest of the service class, and
many slaves. It occupies the area of a very large city, and is very
well laid out, with excellent buildings, and the streets or blocks of
houses very straight. It lies in 4° N. and enjoys a marvelous spring-
like climate the whole year, rather cool than hot, but always uniform,
and the days and the nights equal. The city is abundantly provided
with cheap and delicious supplies ; in its district they raise quantities of
wheat, corn, chickpeas, horse beans, and other Spanish and native
cereals, with excellent vegetables and garden truck. They have
potatoes that are better than truffles, many sorts of sweet potatoes,
sugar mills and all kinds of Spanish fruit, with which they make
excellent and delicious preserves; large ranches of cattle, sheep,
hogs, mules, and horses; so that there are abundant supplies of
everything.

945. They raise quantities of cotton, out of which they make and
manufacture much cloth for the Indians; they work up also very
fine henequen fiber. In the rivers they catch much excellent fish,
especially the captain fish of the Rio de Bosa. There are many gold,
silver, and emerald deposits, and all the rivers carry gold; but through
underpopulation, the wealth of this kingdom makes little show. And
if His Majesty would send orders for the miners to be aided with

318 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

a certain number of slaves, there would be a great increase in the
royal 20 percent impost.

946. This city is the seat of the Circuit Court, which has a Presi-
dent, who is Governor and Captain General; six Justices and an
Attorney, with Secretaries, Relators, and other functionaries and
officials. This Court has wide jurisdiction; in it, His Majesty, in
consultation with the Supreme Council of the Indies, appoints to five
posts of Governor, those of Cartagena, Santa Marta, Antioquia, Los
Muzos, and Mérida, and part of that of Popayan; and three Corregi-
mientos, those of Tunja, Mariquita, and Tocaima and Ibagué. His
Majesty appoints also 12 Paymasters (Contadores) in the district
of this Circuit Court: in the city of Bogota, where there is a Tribunal
de Cuentas (Court of Accounts), with two Contadores Mayores, two
Ordenadores (Auditors), a Contador, and a Treasurer ; in Cartagena,
a Contador and a Treasurer; in Santa Marta, a Contador and a
Treasurer ; and in Antioquia, a Contador and a Treasurer. In addi-
tion, the President appoints to 22 offices, 20 of them Corregimientos ;
one Boat Inspector (Juez de Canoas), an Administrator of Mitayos
(forced Indian service), and other offices ; besides which he appoints
to two garrisons, one at Carare on the Rio Grande de La Magdalena,
and the other in the Chaparral, called San Lorenzo.

947. In Bogota there is a Cathedral, with the Archbishop and
Prebendaries in residence, and two curates who administer the Holy
Sacraments. There are three other parishes, which are Nuestra
Sefiora de Las Nueves, Santa Barbara, and San Victoriano. It has
Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Jesuit convents. There is
a college under the Jesuit Fathers, with 60 collegians, who wear
dark gray gowns and red sashes. There are three nunneries—La
Concepcion, the Barefoot Carmelites, and another new one; a General
Hospital for the care of the sick; and outside of the city a Franciscan
Recollect convent called San Diego, and other churches and shrines.

948. The Circuit Court has for its district from Cartagena to
Popayan, N. and S.; and from E. to W., from the end of the juris-
diction of Mérida up to Buena Ventura, which is about 300 leagues.
It comprises in its district the Archdiocese of Bogota with the Dio-
ceses of Cartagena, Santa Marta, and part of the Diocese of Popayan,
with five posts of Governor named by His Majesty in consultation
with the Royal Council of the Indies; these are Cartagena, Santa
Marta, Zaragoza, Muzos, and La Grita or Mérida; these last three
are in the district of the Archdiocese; with two Corregimientos to
which His Majesty appoints—Tunja, and the mines of Mariquita.
In addition the President of the Circuit Court appoints to 20 Corregi-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 319

mientos, which are all in the district of the Archdiocese; 10 of them
are Ubaté, Guatavita, Suesca, Chia, Ubaque, Bosa, La Sabana de
Bogota, Los Panches, and Los Sutagaos; and 10 in the district of
Tunja—Chita, Gameza, Tensa, Toca, Ceniza, Moabita, Turmequé,
Sogamoso, Soata, Sachica, Pamplona. When any of the Governors
dies, or the Governor of Popayan, the President of the New King-
dom appoints a Governor ad interim.

CHAPTER VII

Continuing the Description of the Features of Bogota and Its
District.

949. There are in the city of Bogota Superior Courts of Accounts
(Tribunales Mayores de Cuentas) and of the Holy Crusade ; further-
more, it has Officials of the Royal Patrimony. The Archdiocese has
wide jurisdiction: N. and S., from the town of Mompés to San Juan
de Los Llanos, over 200 leagues. In its district it has the States
(Gobiernos) of Antioquia or Zaragoza, that of Los Muzos, and that
of La Grita or Mérida, with 2 Corregimientos, those of Tunja and
Mariquita, to which His Majesty appoints ; plus the 19 Corregimientos
in the appointment of the President of the New Kingdom, and 2
garrisons, that of Carare on the Rio Grande de La Magdalena, and
that of Chaparral, called San Lorenzo.

950. The Archdiocese of Bogota has three suffragan Bishops:
those of Cartagena, Santa Marta, and Popayan. In the district of
the Archdiocese there are many cities and towns with Spanish rest-
dents, the principal being Bogota, Tunja, Pamplona, Antioquia,
Zaragoza, Mariquita, San Matias, Vélez, La Palma, Mérida, San
Cristobal, and other of less importance.

951. The New Kingdom is level country with many valleys, in
which there are settlements of the Moxca tribe; it is surrounded on
all sides by the tribe of the Panches. The Panche country is all in
the hot belt ; that of the Moxcas, which is the district of Bogota and
Tunja, is almost like spring in its uniform climate, and the days are
the same length as the nights. It is some 150 leagues long, from
less than 3° N. up to 5° and 6°, in which district are the tribes men-
tioned. The wealth of gold, emeralds, and silver to be found in
these provinces is well known all over the world, and it would be
much greater if 1,000 Ethiopians should be sent over for the exploita-
tion of these precious metals with which the country is paved.

952. The natives of this kingdom are of good stature and propor-
tions ; they wear cotton clothes, striped and many-colored ; the women

320 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

wear a sort of large blanket which they call anacos in Peru, covering
all their body, and much wound around; over their shoulders they
wear another one, small and serving as a mantilla, though they do not
cover their heads with it, but only the shoulders. On their heads
they wear garlands of different colored roses, made of cotton; they
take great pains with their clothing, and the men the same. They
are all docile people, and good Christians.

953. Twenty-two leagues NNE. of Bogota is the city of Tunja,
founded on a cool hillside by Capt. Gonzalo Suarez Rondon, acting
under orders of Commander Gonzalo Ximénez de Quesada in the
year 1538; he gave it the name of the monarch of that country,
Tunja. The city has over 600 Spanish residents, with a parish church,
Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Jesuit convents, two nun-
neries, hospitals where they care for the indigent sick, and other
churches and shrines. In this city His Majesty appoints a Corregidor
in consultation with his Royal Council of the Indies. It has very
wide jurisdiction; the President of the Circuit Court appoints to Io
Corregimientos in it, viz: Chita, Gameza, Tensa, Toca, Ceniza,
Moabita, Turmequé, Sachica, Pamplona, Sogamoso—g of them of
Indians, for the jurisdiction of Tunja is the most thickly settled in
the whole kingdom; Pamplona is a Spanish settlement.

954. The whole Tunja district is thickly settled, and rich in gold
and silver ore. In this district they raise quantities of wheat, corn,
and the other cereals and fruit of Spanish and indigenous varieties.
In the adjoining Tensa Valley there are four sugar plantations and
some sugar mills, and large cattle ranches. In Tunja they make many
cotton blankets and much cotton cloth for the Indians’ clothing. Five
leagues S. of the city lies the town of Leiva, which will contain about
150 Spaniards, with a marvelous springlike climate; there are large
cattle ranches here and some sugar plantations ; they raise some cotton
and work up fine henequen fiber. Near this town is a convent of
Recollect Augustinians, in which is the image of Nuestra Sefiora
de La Candelaria. This is one of the greatest sanctuaries of that
kingdom and has wrought many miracles ; they come here from every
side on pilgrimage, to receive the favors of this great Lady and offer
Her their gifts.

955. The city of Vélez is some 16 leagues from Tunja, toward
the Sierras de Opon, through which Commander Gonzalo Ximénez
de Quesada made his conquering entry. After subduing the country,
in the same year that he founded Bogota and Tunja, i.e., 1538, he
sent Capt. Gonzalo Suarez Rondon to found a new city, and since
he was a native of Granada, he gave it the name of Vélez. This will

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 321

have 100 Spanish residents; its climate is hot. In its district and
valleys there are large sugar plantations; they put up wonderfully
delicious preserves. They raise Spanish and native fruit, plenty of
wheat and corn, and have cattle and sheep ranches; they gather
quantities of cotton, and work up very fine henequen fiber. There is
rich gold ore, and wherever it is worked, they get gold of the finest
quality.

Cuapter VIII

Of Other Matters Pertaining to the District of the City of Tunja;
and of the City of Pamplona.

956. Two leagues from the city of Tunja, on the way to Bogota,
is the source of the Rio de Meta; and the Rio de Casanare rises
3 leagues from Chita, a Corregimiento in the jurisdiction of Tunja.
These rivers after receiving other rivers and watercourses, unite and
form a mighty stream, which flows eastward and is perhaps the
chief component of the Orinoco; after a course of 300 leagues, it
passes through the Provinces of Guiana, where the city of Santo
Tomé has been established. On their banks grow many valuable trees,
from which are derived aromatic extracts, such as balsam, canime,
liquidambar, and others, benzoin, storax, dragon’s blood, copal, and
other medicinal fruits and roots.

957. In the village of Turmequé, an Indian Corregimiento 5
leagues from Tunja, the Indian alcaldes, at the chief’s orders, arrested
a mestizo whom they had caught in some thefts, after he had been
warned and rebuked ; and as he had made no improvement, the chief
sentenced him, on that occasion in view of his offenses, to 200 strokes
of the lash. When he had been notified and had heard the verdict,
he said he wanted to see the chief and was very insistent about it.
Finally the chief acceded to the mestizo’s prayers and importunities
and came to see him; whereupon the mestizo told to his face: How
did it come about that he sentenced him, the son of a Spaniard and
under the jurisdiction of Spanish justice—a thing impossible to do?
The chief, who was shrewd and discreet, replied to the mestizo:
“Where were you born? Here, or in Spain? Is your mother an
Indian woman or Spanish?” and told him to answer formally. The
mestizo answered that he was born “there, and the son of an Indian
woman. Then the chief said: “Since I have jurisdiction over what
of you is Indian, on your mother’s side, I will give you the 200
lashes, according to the sentence ; and as for the rest of you, Spanish
on your father’s side, I’ll turn you over to the Spanish authorities,
for them to chastise you in that regard, for what concerns them.”

22

322 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

Thus he disposed of him and the case—a keen and wise judgment,
and by an Indian.

958. The city of Pamplona is 42 leagues ENE. of Tunja, and 64
from Bogota. It was founded by Gen. Pedro de Ursua in the year
1548, under orders from Licentiate Miguel Diaz de Almendariz,
Governor of Santa Marta, in a valley which will be little more than
14 leagues in circuit, between four ridges. Two small streams run
through it; one rises in the Sierra de Zulia, half a league from
Pamplona, where there is an Indian village ; the other brook is named
Miraflores. The land in this neighborhood is fertile and prolific;
they raise quantities of wheat and corn, twice a year, one crop in
August, the other at Christmas. The valley where the city is built
is attractive; they grow quantities of fruit, of native and Spanish
varieties, and flax, which they work up with care and they make
excellent linen from it.

959. Pamplona will have 400 Spanish residents, with a parish
church, and Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Jesuit convents ;
there is a nunnery of Santa Clara, a hospital where they care for
the indigent sick, and a pilgrimage shrine of Our Lady of the Snows.
The city is at 6° N. and is abundantly supplied with provisions at
low prices. There are large cattle and mule ranches in the district,
and many gold mines.

960. Seven leagues from the city, on the way to Ocafia, there
is a mining camp called Vetas de Oro; the gold is all in veins, and so to
treat the ore there are 13 crushing mills in this camp. Two leagues
beyond there is another mining camp, for silver, called Mongora,
where there are 3 mills to grind the ore. Two leagues farther on
there are other gold mines, named Montuosa; here also the gold
occurs in veins, and there are Io mills to crush the ore. All these
mines were discovered by Capt. Orttin Velasco.

961. Besides all this, on the Paramo Rico, which is 2 leagues from
Vetas de Oro on the slopes of a sierra forming a large open space,
there was discovered in the year 1555 the largest amount of gold on
the surface of the ground that has ever been discovered in the world,
nor was such great wealth ever seen before in one spot; in fact,
merely what virgin gold was melted and paid the 20 percent impost
amounted to 18 millions, apart from what was concealed and what
was made into chains and jewelry of great value and high price.

962. Nine leagues ESE. of Pamplona lies a valley which is 7
leagues long and a little over 2 leagues broad; it is called the Valley
of the Crazy People (Los Locos). When the country was explored
and subdued, it contained over 60,000 Indians; when the Spaniards

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 323

came in, these Indians were so unsophisticated that they took them
for big monkeys, and picked up hemp ropes (which they call cabuyas
in the kingdom) and tried to tie them with the ropes, without de-
fending themselves from them; and the Spaniards, seeing them with
so many ropes, and the faces that they made, decided they must be
crazy, and so gave them that name, and the valley has kept it to
this day.

963. Eleven leagues from the city there is another valley, which
they call La Matanza (The Massacre), with a little butte in the
center of it like a castle. In the early days 24 Spaniards came in
here; and the Chitareros Indians of that province, seeing foreigners
on their territory—and they were brave and warlike—got more than
40,000 together, armed with arrows, lances, and war clubs, to kill
the Spaniards who were exploring. Since they saw they were lost,
being so few against such a multitude of savages, they retreated with
the utmost circumspection and reached the top of the butte, where
they defended themselves valiantly, rolling down boulders or large
stones ; thus they killed many of the enemy, and coming off victorious
through their great energy and precautions, they escaped from the
danger. In this valley there are excellent hot baths, where invalids
bathe and recover their health.

964. Fifteen leagues from Pamplona there are two valleys, one
called Bucarica, and the other Los Cafaverales, where there are many
gold-washing enterprises, in which 17 gangs of Negroes and Indians
are employed in washing and extracting the gold; they have taken
out large amounts of gold, and still do; it is 224-carat gold. These
gold deposits were discovered by Capt. Orttn Velasco, and his estates
are here, exploited by his children.

CHAPTER IX

Of Other Matters Pertaining to the District of the City of
Pamplona.

965. In the district of this city, and at a distance of 15 leagues,
lies the Cucuta Valley, which is fertile and with wide pasturelands ;
there are large mule ranches here; these mules are among the largest
and best in the kingdom, and they take great troops of them down
to Peru to sell; the same is true of the Los Locos Valley, which is
likewise large and fertile.

966. In Pamplona there are extensive plantations of sugarcane;
they make quantities of sugar there, and there are 17 sugar mills.
The Rio de Zulia which runs through the valley in which the city

324 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

lies, unites with other streams, and 20 leagues below Pamplona,
already a large river, it receives another river which runs through
the town of Salazar de Las Palmas; this is a settlement with 4o
Spanish residents, 23 leagues from Pamplona; it has an Alcalde
Mayor in the private appointment of Capt. Alonso Rangel de Cuellar.
This town was established for the subjection of the Orotomos Indians
between Pamplona and Santa Marta; there are many of these Indians
to be conquered; it is one of the best and richest projects in this
kingdom ; the Indians are civilized and wear clothes, and the country
is rich in gold ore.

967. Some 12 leagues from the town of Salazar de Las Palmas,
this Rio de Zulia unites with another large river, carrying still more
water, at the port of Astillero; here one takes boat for the Lake of
Maracaibo. From the city of Pamplona they freight overland by
troops of mules, flour, sugar, quantities of preserves, hides, tobacco,
and other commodities to the port of Astillero, 22 leagues; from
here they ship them on boats and rafts to the Lake of Maracaibo,
which is 40 leagues from this port of Astillero.

968. This river always was the channel of navigation; it will be
40 years since two provinces or tribes, the Motilones and Zaparas,
who live along the banks of this mighty river, rose in rebellion with
their adjoining valleys; it was Capt. Juan Pacheco Maldonado who
in person subdued and pacified the Saparas, who live near the Lake
of Maracaibo. After having been Governor of Los Muzos, he ar-
ranged with His Majesty to be given the governorship of Mérida,
in order to finish the conquest and pacification there, as he has done.

CHAPTER X

Of the Administration of the City of Mérida, and Its District.

969. The city of Mérida, capital of this new State, is 50 leagues
from the city of Pamplona, and 114 NE. of Santa Fé. It was estab-
lished in a pleasant and fertile valley, on the slopes of a Sierra
Nevada. It is the last town in that direction of the Archdiocese of
Bogota, and borders on Venezuela; it is 24 leagues from the city
of Trujillo in that Diocese. This country was explored and subdued,
and the city founded, by Capt. Juan Rodriguez Suarez, who was
one of the bravest and sturdiest pioneers of those days. He was
aided in his campaign by Capt. Guillermo de Vergara and_ other
soldiers and officers.

970. The city has a constant springlike climate and is surrounded
by fertile valleys, in which they raise quantities of wheat, corn, and

ee aS eee rh

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 325

other cereals and root crops of both Spanish and native varieties.
They have wonderful pasturage in the district, and so there are large
cattle and mule ranches; there is much gold and silver ore. The city
will contain 300 Spanish residents, with a parish church, Dominican,
Franciscan, and Augustinian convents, a hospital, and other shrines
for worship. This city was founded by this Capt. Juan Rodriguez
Suarez in the year 1547; afterward he headed a campaign into the
Provinces of Venezuela, and after subduing and pacifying many
tribes, he founded among other cities, Santiago de Leén, now called
Caracas. He was engaged in pacifying those districts when he re-
ceived word, late in 1560, that the corsair Lope de Aguirre had come
down the Marafion and had done much damage there and in Mar-
garita; and when fuller details of everything had reached him, to the
effect that the rebel was attacking the Borburata and Nueva Valencia,
he left the city of Barquisimeto where he was, for the relief of the
other Spaniards resident in those provinces, from the rebel’s attack,
at the end of the year 1560. But on the slopes of Terepayna he was
met by a great multitude of savages, who killed the few Spaniards
he had with him; he himself, after killing many of the savages, being
exhausted by the heat and thirst, and worn out by his exertions,
leaned up against a rock and died there; but the savages did not dare
touch him even after his death, such was his courage and the repu-
tation he had among the savages. I have set out of its right order
the story of the death of this captain, worthy of eternal praises,
because he founded the city of Mérida.

971. There are other cities in the district of the State of Mérida:
that of Espiritu Santo de La Grita, which will contain as many as
80 Spanish residents; it lies 20 leagues from Mérida, toward Pam-
plona; at the start this was the capital of the State. Five leagues
from this city there is a volcano which erupted with a great earth-
quake on February 3, 1608; the earthquake was so severe that a
hill flew up from where it was, near the volcano, and came down
over a league away on a small stream, whose waters it turned aside
and dammed, forming a lake which flooded much territory. Near
La Grita is the city of San Cristébal, which will contain 100 Spanish
residents.

972. Capt. Juan Pacheco Maldonado, after his career in this State,
established at the mouth of the Rio de Zulia, on the banks of the
Lake of Maracaibo, the city of San Matias, which has a few Spanish
residents. Besides this there are two other cities, but with only a
few Spanish residents: the city of Barinas, so famous for the cele-
brated tobacco grown and prepared in its district—the best in the

326 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Indies—and the city of Pedraza. The port of San Pedro is on Lake
Maracaibo; this is where they come from all the cities of these
provinces with their products, to ship them. In the other direction,
toward the W., this State is bounded by the district of Tunja, Vélez,
and La Palma, the State of Los Muzos, and Colimas.

CHAPTER XI

Of the Provinces of Los Muzos and Colimas, and the Emerald
Mines To Be Found There.

973. The Provinces of Los Muzos and Colimas are 24 leagues
ENE. of Bogota, bordering on the territory of Tunja and Vélez.
The Indians of these tribes were very brave warriors and very hard
to subdue; they were cannibals and carried out devastating raids
on the Moxca Indians, their neighbors, bringing troops of them back
to their own country, where they made cannibal feasts on them. They
seized these provinces from the Mauras and other tribes and drove
them out, to settle later on the banks of the Rio Grande de La
Magdalena. The subjugation of these provinces was begun by a few
Spaniards, in particular by Gen. Pedro de Ursua, a cousin or nephew
of Licentiate Miguel Diaz de Almendariz; when he had subdued
part of this tribe, he established Tudela in a valley on the banks
of the Rio Zarbi near the sierras. This was abandoned in consequence
of the continual forays of the savages from the sierras; so he set
out with the idea of exploring the Provinces of El Dorado; and
finding other large provinces toward the E. with plenty of natives
and wealth of gold and provisions, he founded and established the
city of Pamplona, as has been noted.

974. The Muzos and Colimas Indians, greatly set up because they
had driven the Spaniards out of that region and made them abandon
the new city, joined forces with Saboya, chief of the Moxca tribe,
and massacred a few Spaniards and many Indians of adjoining tribes
who had been converted ; they carried many of them off to eat, being
guilty of great treachery and deceit in so doing; and thus they
exterminated great numbers of Indians in the jurisdictions of Bogota,
Tunja, and Vélez.

975. On learning of the great harm caused by these savages, Gen.
Luis Lanchero set out with Captains Bartolomé de Soto, Juan de
Poveda, and others, and a large force of well-armed soldiers, to
subdue and chastise them, and in the Province of Paya, belonging
to the jurisdiction of Vélez, they proposed to establish the first
Spanish settlement, in the name of the Most Holy Trinity (Santisima

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 327

Trinidad). They had some encounters with the heathen, from which
the Spaniards always came off victorious; but the General was
wounded with an arrow dipped in vegetable poison, so that they
realized he must die. At this moment Capt. Juan de Ribera arrived
with reinforcements, including some dogs as auxiliaries ; they fought
better than the Spaniards against the savages, and the latter were
afraid of them, for they dashed in among the savages and tore them
to pieces. So they subdued the greater part of these provinces and
brought that warlike tribe into subjection, and although it was so
fierce and so averse to subjection, it remained a subject tribe. They
were brave, well-built, and robust ; they fought with deadly poisoned
arrows, with war clubs and with lances 25 palms long, made of a
tough and poisonous palm. They attacked with loud war whoops,
shouts, and the blowing of horns and conchs. At the time of the
harvests they used to ask for a truce with the Spaniards, to gather
the crops, which they shared with them in return for letting them
harvest them, and then they would go to war again. When they had
realized the courage of the Spaniards and the ferocity of their dogs,
which they dreaded more than the harquebusses, they submitted and
made peace. Thereupon search was made for a suitable location and
site, and they found the one known as La Caldera, which is abun-
dantly supplied with provisions, wood, and water, but has a hot, damp
climate, being at 6° N. It is healthy and has salubrious breezes.
They have two summers and two winters; one from the beginning
of December lasting till the end of February; then it is winter till
the beginning of June, when another summer starts, lasting all through
September. It is not that it gets colder or hotter, for the climate is
always uniform and the days and nights the same length; it is a
question of water, for in these two winter seasons, it rains, and
generally it falls at night, and there is no rain in the daytime. Every
4 months they get a crop, and it is abundant.

CHAPTER XII

Of the City of Trinidad de Los Muzos; and of the Rich Emerald
Mines in Its District, and the Way They Handle Them.

976. The city of Trinidad de Los Muzos was founded in the year
1547 by Gen. Luis Lanchero on the site known as La Caldera, in
a level spot on the slopes of a mountain, with a climate as described.
It lies in 6° N., 6 leagues from the great Cordillera, which runs
N. and S. more than 1,500 leagues, from near Santa Marta to the
Straits of Magellan; it is E. of the city. In the jurisdiction of this

328 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

city there are very rich mines of 22-carat gold veins ; but the country
is not settled, for lack of labor and because the location is low and
unhealthy. There are likewise silver, copper, and iron mines, and
a mine of stone unique in nature; it is all shot through with white
pyrites (marcasite), gold and silver streaks; they make very hand-
some and attractive altars out of it, and it is utilized for other special
purposes.

977. The hill of Itoto, on which are the very rich emerald mines,
is a league out of the city. There are many veins in which chalcedony
occurs and other forms of emerald, altogether like diamonds in being
hard, white, and with a diamond’s cutting edge, but for some reason
not mature or ripened. They have come on other mines of these
emeralds in the neighborhood of the hill of Itoto, at half a league,
1 league and farther off. The hill of Itoto where this rich mine is,
is very high, with soil black as charcoal; the veins where the emeralds
are formed, are in general soft. The way they handle them is to
dig out all that earth following the veins in their search for the
emeralds; they have flumes coming from a river which runs near
the hill, and nearby, large tanks full of water with sluice gates, which
they call tamires.

978. When they have excavated and followed the veins enough,
they raise the sluice gates and the water which has been dammed up,
dashes out with such force that it carries off all the earth excavated
and leaves clean what has been mined, and at once they find the
emeralds in that sort of soft, black, stony covering in which they
are formed. Those that are matured and ripened, are of a very fine
and uniform green, and among them are stones of priceless value ;
others are green with some whitish blotches, which are not fully
matured ; the white ones need seasoning. It sometimes happens that
many are found together, which means great wealth. In fine, it is
usual in these mines, just as in gold and silver mines, that sometimes
they run richer than others. The water of this river which flows
near the city, is generally almost black, both from the soil it runs
through and from the mine operations.

979. Three leagues from the ridge of Itoto there is another called
Abipi, on which there are likewise very rich emerald mines. These
are not exploited, for lack of water, which is quite essential for
working and exploiting a mine; without it there can be no exploita-
tion. There are also mines of very fine beryls, among which there
are large crystals, brilliant, clear, and transparent, with other mines
to give thanks to the Creator for.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 329

980. The city of Trinidad will contain 200 Spanish residents, with
large numbers of Indians and Negroes, most of whom are engaged
in the working and exploiting of the mines, which give much employ-
ment and profit. His Majesty appoints a Governor here, in consulta-
tion with the Royal Council of the Indies, for its good government
and the administration of justice in it, the city of Palma and its
provinces, and for the exploitation of the mines. They make in
this city quantities of cotton cloth, very fine henequen fiber, and other
specialties. It is abundantly supplied with provisions, wheat, corn,
and other cereals and fruit, and cattle, as will be shown in the follow-
ing chapter.

CHAPTER XIII

Of the City of La Palma, and of Other Special Features of the
District of Its Provinces and Those of Trinidad ; and of the Diversity
of Trees and Fruit To Be Found There.

981. The city of La Palma is some 18 leagues from the city of
Trinidad; the Indians of the region belong to the same tribe, and
the country has the same climate and fertility. It will have some
200 Spanish residents; it has in its district quantities of cattle and
sheep, and mule and hog ranches. In the city and its neighborhood
they work up much very fine cotton cloth, serge, coarse woolen cloth,
very fine henequen fiber, lisle and cotton stockings, and other
specialties.

982. The country is very rough and wooded, like that of Trinidad.
They raise quantities of corn, kidney beans, rice, and other cereals,
fruit, and root crops—sweet potatoes, which they call camotes and
are of numerous sorts, like those grown in Spain, purple, red, and
yellow ; potatoes, jicamas, and all sorts of Spanish vegetables and
garden truck, which yield abundantly. Between these sierras there
are fertile and attractive valleys, with rivers and streams of sweet
and crystal-clear water running through them, full of delicious fish ;
there are sweet and sour oranges, grapefruit, citrons, limes, and
lemons, not only cultivated but growing wild in the woods.

983. In these provinces there are almond trees growing tall and
thick-foliaged like pines, which produce very large almonds, like
large pears; the kernel or nut has the same color and taste as ours.
The jobo or jocote has a fruit like Michaelmas plums; its bark and
shoots are beneficial for swellings, wounds, and diarrhea; they make
excellent parsley from its shoots. There are big fig trees which bear
large figs, bigger than pippins, sweet and palatable; from its wood
they make marvelous round shields. The papaw is a tall spongy

330 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tree with thick foliage ; it bears fruit the whole year through, shaped
like a medium-sized melon, and red, with seeds like peppercorns
and a taste like cress; it is good for the digestion.

984. There is a very tall cup-shaped tree whose fruit looks like a
hand, and is very sweet and palatable; very tall chestnut trees with
burrs of the size of pomegranates and three or four chestnuts in
each. The guabo or coxiniquil comes in two or three varieties; its
fruit grows in pods like beans, some half a yard long and others
less; the substance is inside the pod, white as snow, and very sweet
and spongy ; inside are soft seeds like green beans. There is another
tree like the almond, which produces beans as large as chestnuts.
The caeque tree is very tall and stocky; its fruit is like a peach and
of the same size.

985. As for the granadilla (passionflower), the vines producing
this fruit are like ivy; they wind around and cover a tall reed fence
or climb a tree to which they hang fast. The fruit is like an egg, but
somewhat larger; when ripe, the skin is yellow; they are very fra-
grant and palatable. The inside is very sweet, and liquid like the
white of an egg, with some small seeds, which are swallowed with it.
There are walnut trees in quantity in the woods. The jagua (inaja)
tree has sap which is white and crystal-clear, but dyes black as ink.
There are quantities of very fragrant cedars; maria trees, with tough
timber red as cochineal ; guaiacum, whose wood is indestructible and
has medicinal value ; the cariuri, with tough and highly prized timber ;
the namoré tree, with valuable timber; trees from which they get
turpentine ; the canime, copal, benzoin, balsam, and liquidambar trees.

986. The acuapa tree is poisonous ; whoever sleeps under its shade
gets swellings. They have ebony and brazilwood trees; palms which
bear fruit called cachepais, excellent to eat; others whose wood is
black as ebony, and very tough and harmful; the Indians make their
weapons out of it, and pilgrim’s staffs of it are exported to Spain.
There is another tree called caimito; its fruit is like that of the
strawberry tree, and the kernels roasted look and taste like chickpeas.
There are aguacates, or paltas. There is another tree with stringy
bark, from which they make thread and rope just as from henequen.
The tree which is a giant among the others is the ceiba; it is very tall
and straight, rounded and with thick foliage. Every month its leaves
drop off and new ones come. They are so large that from the hollow
of one trunk they fashion a dugout which will carry 600 jars of wine
and 50 or 60 men and all the food and drink they need for a sea
voyage.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 331

CHAPTER XV

Of the Diversity of Birds and Animals To Be Found in These
Provinces and Regions of the Colimas.

987. They have very large royal eagles, falcons, sparrowhawks,
primas (female falcons), kestrels, gerfalcons, large owls, barn owls,
red owls, large bats bigger than pigeons, condors, and carrion buz-
zards ; these two species of birds clean things up and prevent bad
smells and tainted air, for they eat up whatever animals and small
creatures die, so that they never get to decaying and causing bad
odors. There are many other birds of prey, impossible to enumerate.

988. There are many sorts of waterfowl: Geese and many kinds
of ducks, widgeons, pelicans (whose pouch will hold an arroba of
water), cranes, flamingos, widgeons, mergansers, gulls, bitterns, white
and gray egrets with fine plumes, and many other birds which live on
the lakes and rivers and feed on the fish they catch.

989. In the woods and forests among the trees live wild turkeys,
turkeys, pheasants, guinea hens, chachalaca grouse, pigeons, turtle-
doves of many sorts, large, medium, and tiny as sparrows, partridges,
quail, moor cocks, and many other kinds of wild and of domesticated
barnyard fowl.

990. They have wild animals: Tigers, black bears like those in
Spain, small lions which will run away from a dog barking, tapirs,
gray-haired pigs with their navels on the backbones; other little ones
mottled almost like wild boars; black wildcats, great pilferers; when
they make a catch, they run off to the woods on their hind legs,
carrying their prey tight in their forelegs; ant bears, who stick out
their long slender tongue alongside the entrance to the anthill, and
when it is covered, they draw it in with their catch, and so live on
the ants; slender (? agalgados) water tigers with fore and hind feet
webbed like a duck’s, and they generally live in the water. There
is a kind of foxes, great chicken thieves; they carry their young
stowed away in a pouch with which Nature provides them.

991. They have deer like ours, and there are great numbers of them
everywhere in the Indies. There are others small and red, like goats,
which grow fine bezoar stones. The armadillo is good eating; it
lives in holes in the ground. Guadatinajas are a sort of hare. Sloths
are the size of a small dog, and very ugly; they take a long time
to raise their foot and make a step forward, making a great enter-
prise out of it; they will use up a whole day in covering the distance
of a stone’s throw; they usually move only at night. The usmaca
is like a cat; after bearing its young it: keeps them hanging tight
to its teats until they are grown enough to shift for themselves.

332 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

992. The pizma is the size and shape of a badger, but ugly, with
a long snout; it has a note like a bird, and defends itself courageously
against whoever tries to do it harm. They have porcupines which
cast their quills if attacked; and hedgehog-cats which sleep all day
and at night hunt mice, birds, and whatever small fry they can find.
And there are many other species of animals never known or seen
in Europe.

993. In the great river Magdalena there are countless alligators,
as naturally fierce as I have described them elsewhere; but this great
river has the largest number of them of any in the Indies. Its shores
are usually full of their eggs; the Indians and Negroes break and
eat endless amounts of them, but they never give out. This must
suffice for the description of this jurisdiction.

CHAPTER. X V

Of the State of Antioquia, and the Cities Comprised within Its
District ; and of Other Remarkable Things.

994. The State of Antioquia borders on that of Popayan to the
S. at the city of Arma; on the ESE., with Santa Fé de Bogota and
the country between the two rivers (entre los dos rios) ; and to the
NW., with the Atlantic, whose coast is under its jurisdiction. This
begins at the Rio Zent, which separates it from the State of Carta-
gena; in that quarter it runs near the town of Tolt and continues
along that coast up to Puerto Bello and Panama, along the Rio
Darién, into which run many others. This country is inhabited by
Urabaes Indians, who live near the seacoast where were originally
established the cities of Nuestra Senora del Antigua, in which the
Panama Cathedral was first built, and of Acla, in the days of the
valiant Commander Vasco Nufiez de Balboa, who first discovered
the Pacific, and who subdued these tribes of the Urabaes and the
Guasuseés their neighbors, and kept them in subjection and con-
verted them.

995. But Gov. Pedro Arias de Avila unjustly beheaded his son-
in-law Commander Vasco Nujfez, through jealousy and with flimsy
motives, to obscure his glories and his victories, and so these tribes
rose again in rebellion. Later they were subdued by Capt. Pedro
Martin, and he established a village ; but it was burned by the savage
Guasuseés, and they massacred the Spaniards, so as to free themselves
from the obligation of service. We have sure information that these
Indians have great wealth of gold in their tombs.

996. Coming up from Darién there are large provinces of hostile
Indians, and in particular along the Rio del Leén, which runs into

Se So a eee er

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 333

the Provinces of the Ytunos, Quenequenes, and Oromiras, with large
settlements; these were explored by Capt. Rodrigo Alonso in the
year 1604. He made sample tests along the river banks and located
many gold mines and found great indications of free gold. On one
of these rivers which fall into the Darién, we are informed that
there is the rich temple of the god Dabaybe, which means gold lion;
it contains untold wealth, offered by the savages since time imme-
morial to their god, for that is the greatest sanctuary they have in
all those provinces. But although many have tried to reach this
sanctuary of the heathen, they have failed, for it is a very wide
country, with high crags and trackless mountains.

997. This country extends from the Uraba coast on the Atlantic
to the port of Buena Ventura on the Pacific; between these two
oceans on the W. is the district of Panama, with coasts on both.
There are pearls not only on the Panama islands but in some of the
inland rivers, for some have been found in the possession of the
Choco Indians, who inhabit these provinces over a wide territory,
but with few settlements. These Indians live in pile dwellings which
they build on the highest and loftiest ridges in their country, which
is good and rough.

998. The weapons they use in their wars are light lances made of
palm which they fire with great skill and accuracy long distances ;
but they have great fear of firearms, and run away from them,
especially when their lances have given out. These savages are de-
praved morally, treacherous, and highway robbers; they do not keep
their word. They have forced the abandonment of the town of Toro
in the State of Popayan, whose gold mines are among the richest -
of the Indies, and are lost for that reason. They have likewise fre-
quently raided Antioquia, harming and killing its residents, as well
as Indian villages in its jurisdiction, and mining camps.

999. Many courageous captains have gone in there to subdue the
tribes of these savages, and have been lost. The reason is that the
country is poorly provided with supplies, like most of the gold-mining
country ; the settlements are few and far between, and although there
are supplies of corn and other provisions of good quality stored in
them, they are scanty.

CHAPTER XVI

Continuing the Description of the State of Antioquia and of the
Customs of the Savages.

1000. When the Spaniards come in to subdue them, the first
settlement or pile dwelling from which they are spied, is set on fire

334 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

by the savages and as they are thatched with palm leaves (palmicha),
they burn up at once and are abandoned. This gives the alarm to
their neighbors, who imitate their example by following the same
course and abandon everything, without the Spaniards being able
to get any benefit from it. Then they take to the Rio Choco in their
dugouts or rafts and go on downstream to some swamps formed by
the river, where they fish and.live on the product of their fishing
until the Spaniards retire, for the country is rainy and unproductive,
although richest in gold in the Indies.

1001. The best method to follow for the subjection of these
provinces and enjoy the great wealth of gold which God has planted
there, is for two captains to enter the country at the same time, one
up the Darién and the Choco, and the other across the Choco terri-
tory ; in this way the Indians will not be able to escape, and they will
have to give themselves up and become subjects. They have a large
stretch of rich land, covered however with woods, groves, and water-
courses. Between these Indians and the State of Popayan at one side
there are more than 4,000 hostile Indians of the Quirimbaraes tribe.

1002. From Antioquia to the seacoast it will be over 150 leagues;
the very high and extensive Sierras de Abibe have to be crossed,
with thick woods and uninhabitable wildernesses. This State is divided
from the Corregimiento of Mariquita by the city of Los Remedios,
which lies at the apex of a triangle formed by Antioquia and Zara-
goza, to the ESE. It is separated from that of Cartagena by the
town of Mompos, which is almost straight N., over the vast wilder-
nesses formed by the Rio de Cauca and Rio de La Magdalena.

1003. It contains within its district five Spanish settlements: three
cities—Santa Fé de Antioquia, Caceres, and Zaragoza; and two
towns, San Jerodnimo del Monte, and Guamaco, although Guamaco
falls within the Diocese of Cartagena. They have a Governor and
Royal Officials ; but the whole State comes under the jurisdiction of
the Circuit Court and Archdiocese of Santa Fé de Bogota; Santa Fé
de Antioquia is in the Diocese of Popayan, from whose State admin-
istration it was severed by special agreement with Andrés Valdivia,
so that the city might become a fortified post for the subjugation
of the country between the two rivers (entre los dos rios).

1004, The original Antioquia was settled by Jorge de Robledo in
the year 1541; it was 30 leagues S. of where it is today. They
established Valdivia on Forge Hill (Loma de La Fragua), to main-
tain a post near their subjugated area, and then moved their city to
a point half a league from the Rio Cauca, on the banks of the Rio
de Tonusco and on the slopes of the high ridge of Buritica; this

nih es ne -- es

Fee ee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 335

is one of the richest in that country, for both it and its periphery
are paved with very rich veins of gold, which they call lace gold
(oro de encaje) ; great amounts of gold have been taken from it.
Antioquia has very pleasant, bright weather ; it has a marvelous loca-
tion, level and attractive, with salubrious breezes, for which reason
the natives consider it one of the healthiest places in the world.

1005. To the E., on the other side of the Rio Cauca, rises the
lofty and famous ridge of Taami; and to the W. there are high
mountains beyond Buritica, from which one gets excellent views of
the city and the whole countryside. They drink the water of the
Rio Tonusco, which is somewhat hard on account of the numerous
salt springs which discharge into it; but the water is healthy and
the springs of great importance for the cattle of the large ranches
there.

1006. In early days there was lively trade and commerce on the
part of the Indians with these springs; they boiled the water and
made quantities of salt, and sold it all over the country. At present
they make only a little; it is salter than ours and milder; it is colored
dark gray like the ground. They have a springlike climate, rather
hot than cold.

CHAPTER XVII

Of the Abundance of Cattle, Fruit, and Provisions To Be Found
in the District of This State.

1007. In this district they have abundance of native and Spanish
fruit, corn, rice, and other cereals. The Rio Cauca forms some
swamps, where they catch quantities of small-mouthed sardines,
which have as good a flavor as salmon, and many other kinds of fish.
In this country there are many prairies and meadows, pleasant and
cheering to the eye and very attractive, which they call sabanas.
Twenty leagues from Antioquia is the valley of Aburra, which is
one of the most fertile and rich in pastureland, in all the Indies,
for which reason it contains great numbers of cattle, sheep, horses,
mares, and mules, and produces excellent vegetables and garden truck.
Its climate is rather cold than hot. They harvest here great quantities
of corn, and four or five varieties of beans, some of them better and
bigger than horse beans—the Peruvian pallares de los Ilanos. They
grow abundance of potatoes; they get honeycombs in the trees,
without care or effort; on the land there are wild and domestic
swine and every variety of cattle.

1008. The Rio Cauca, which traverses all this State, carrying along
great wealth of gold, rises in the State of Popayan, which it runs

330 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

completely across. At the village of Arma, the last in the district of
Popayan, they build large rafts on it, of 40 or 50 bamboos, which
they call guaduas. They fasten these together and build a compart-
ment on them, which they call a barbacoa; here they stow their stuff
or merchandise, so that it will stay dry. They navigate these rafts
down this river to Antioquia, 40 leagues, in 8 hours’ time; they have
never traveled upstream, that being impossible, on account of the
rapid current.

1009. From Antioquia to Caceres there is no river travel, although
it is a mighty stream and many others join it; but it runs confined
between lofty sierras and mountains, with a strong current and great
falls. It runs in this fashion to the gorge of La Gomera, and the
mouth of the Rio del Espiritu Santo, a league and a half from the
city of Antioquia and not very far from the Rio Cauca, some 30
leagues from Caceres, was founded the city of San Juan de Rodas,
which was deserted in the year 1599, for the Guasuseés Indians
burned it down one night, massacring the Spaniards and carrying
off the Spanish women into captivity.

CHAPTER XVIII

Of the City of Caceres and the Rich Gold Mines in Its District.

1010. The city of Caceres is built at one end of the Loma de Nuaba.
From the city down to the Rio Cauca and the port of Valdivia,
through which passes all its commerce, it is a very rough and steep
descent a league long. The site of the city is likewise very rocky,
with plenty of springs on account of the proximity of the rivers, and
misty also; but as it lies on such a high point, it enjoys good pure
air, which makes it healthy. The climate is most delightful, and the
ground is free from obnoxious creatures. It has beautiful views over
the Rio Cauca and other high mountains toward the E., with lovely
valleys and meadowland between them. The city was first founded
on a level stretch, a quarter of a league from where it is today.

1011. This city was moved and settled on the site where it has
remained, by Gov. Andrés de Valdivia, the first to explore and sub-
jugate these provinces. He named it Ubeda, in memory of that in
Andalusia, his native town. This gentleman was killed by the Indians
in the valley of the Rio de San Andrés, where he had a stronghold
which the savages burned down. Later, Capt. Gaspar de Rodas came
in to chastise them; he was a native of Caceres in Estremadura, and
called his city Nueva Caceres. From here it is 32 leagues to the
city of Antioquia—14 to the valley and Rio de San Andrés, and 18

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 337

from there to Antioquia. The greater part of this country is unin-
habited waste land, although in the ravines of Querquia, San Andrés,
and Santa Maria there are a few scattered Indians, but no settlements.

1012. The city of Caceres is well supplied with the products both
of Spain and of the New Kingdom of Granada, all brought by boat
on the Rio Cauca to the port of Valdivia. The city will contain 20
encomenderos and 100 Spanish residents, with a parish church and
2 shrines, one of Santa Barbara and the other of Santa Lucia. This
country is rainy from April to September, which is their winter ;
they have great storms with thunder and lightning, which frighten
more than harm; since they put up the shrine of the glorious martyr
Santa Barbara, there have not been so many. In the neighborhood
of this city there are rich gold deposits, free and in veins, in the
paramo of Porci between Caceres and Los Remedios; there are others
in the paramo of Taubina, above the sources of the Rio Valdivia;
others in the paramo of Cartiquia and Rio de Osos, and the veins
of Acaceri, between Caceres and Zaragoza. All the rivers within
this jurisdiction carry great wealth of free gold, and the ravines of
Nuri, Oco, Puqui, Puri, and many others in that region are paved
with this precious metal.

1013. The Rio Cauca has many mines on both banks; the richest
are those called Las Pesquerias, which start at 6 leagues downstream
from Caceres. Rich above all others in this jurisdiction are those
discovered by Gov. Don Juan Meléndez de Valdés in the year 1608
in the ravine of Nupara and on the Cerro de San Pedro at the mouth
of the narrows of the Rio Cauca. All this gold is 23-carats fine,
coming from the highlands and having been refined and its fineness
increased by the virtue of the sun; although this free gold, being
remote from its source, contrary to what Aristotle asserts, that it is
only formed in the cliffs, veins, or earth where it is engendered by
the virtue of the sun, it is certain that it gets refined and gains in
quality, as has been proven by experience; for the same gold found
in the rivers and streams is of inferior quality to that found outside,
because the dampness hinders somewhat the operation of the sun
and it cannot refine it as if it were outside.

CHAPTER XIX

Continuing the Description of the District of Caceres; and of the
Diversity of Fruit, Animals, and Birds To Be Found There.

1014. The city of Zaragoza is 30 leagues E. of Caceres; the trail
is rough, over sterile country without settlements, and with high

23

338 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

mountains and some rivers to cross; it is shorter and easier to travel
down the Rio Cauca and then up the Rio de Nichi. In Caceres they
get two crops of corn a year, rice, many sorts of beans, cassava,
sweet potatoes, and yams, which are another variety of them; there
are both wild and cultivated or garden sorts; rascaderas, two kinds
of arracachas, and aoyamas, which are like Guinea gourds.

1015. They have many different sorts of flowers, like pinks and
carnations ; garden truck and vegetables ; many kinds of fruit, bananas,
aguacates of three varieties, in season the whole year round; pine-
apples, oranges, limes, lemons, citrons large and small, sugarcane,
with establishments for making syrup and sugar. They have papaws,
chontaduros, jocotes, guanabanas (bullock’s heart), besides which
there are many others excellent to eat, called caguyes. These grow
on very tall trees in pods and when they are ripe, they drop when the
wind blows. They have a hard thorny skin or rind, and inside, an
almond big as three of ours, as mellow as ours and sweeter and oilier.
The season for this fruit is 2 months, from March through April.

1016. There is another they call cerezas (cherries), though they
neither look nor taste like them. They taste better, and are smaller;
they grow a number on the same stalk; the trees are very tall. This
fruit is highly prized, both because of its excellence and of the
extraordinary fact that it only bears every 3 or 4 years, and then
in abundance; the season is only March and April. There is another
they call bufiuelos (crullers) because of the similarity; the flavor is
bittersweet, and pungent. Huevas (roe) grow on very pliant trees
with broad leaves; they put out large pods and in each pod there are
three or four huevas covered with a dark gray hull, each of the shape
of a medium-sized pear; they are eaten boiled or roasted, and have
a chestnut flavor.

1017. There is another fruit they call caimitos, of the size of an
orange and purple outside when they are ripe; inside they are white,
sweet, and well-flavored. There are others which are small, hardly
larger than apricots, yellow, and well-flavored.

1018. The animals found in this country are: Very large and
fierce tigers; small lions; tapirs the build of a mule; large bears;
in the woods, very handsome and remarkable spotted wildcats, and
others of the ordinary kind; many sorts of monkeys, some with
long tails; squirrels ; cuchumbies ; armadillos ; foxes ; chuchas (opos-
sums) which carry their young in a pouch and suckle them; they
are great chicken thieves, and generally commit their depredations
on stormy, rainy nights. There are three sorts of wild hogs; the
best are the cariblancos, which are very wild; to kill them, they climb

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 339

trees and whack them with a lance; and when they come and bite
the tree where the man-is who is making the noise, he kills them
with his lance. They run in packs, and are usually led by the meanest
and thinnest of the lot, who is their captain. Both they and the
tatabaras have their navel on their backbone; after killing them, it
has to be removed immediately because of the stench it makes. They
are of the build of wild boars, and their flesh is of the same sort.

1019. There are animals they call perico ligero (sloths) which
have a melancholy cry and move with extreme slowness and delibera-
tion. There are otters and guadatinajas, both land and water kinds,
which are hunted with dogs and snares. There are many species of
snakes, large and small, land and water sorts; most of them are very
poisonous ; there is no remedy for a water-snake’s bite.

1020. They have royal eagles and very fine bastards; many sorts of
sparrow hawks, herons, guaguacos, gulls, paujies, turkeys, the bird
called urri, parrots, macaws large and small, parrokeets, catalnicas
(lories?) of beautiful and varied colors, nightingales and many other
birds with sweet and harmonious songs. There are rabrahorcados,
royal and bastard ducks, and many kinds of small ones, which are
called zarzuelas; ravens, vultures, and turkey buzzards or zopilotes ;
some have red legs and hazel feathers, but most are black.

1021. They have partridges larger than our hens, with blue legs
and hazel plumage; they call them guagraes, and catch or hunt them
with snares ; there are others exactly like ours. They have turtledoves
and the carpenter bird (woodpecker), with red crest and breast,
which mauls and pecks at the trees as if recalling the story of King
Tereus. There are other birds they call picos largos (long bills) ;
they have them very large, yellow and black. The gulls nest on the
sandbanks of the Rio Cauca; they lay their eggs on the sand; they
are almost as big and good as hen’s eggs, and so they hatch them
and carry them off. The turtles also lay their eggs in the sand and
cover them over with it; they hatch under the heat and virtue of the
sun, and the tiny turtles come straight out and make for the water.
They get eggs and turtles in the backwaters of the river. The
alligators hatch their eggs the same way; they are not to be found
usually at Caceres, the river having such a rapid current there ; some
have come up with the boats from Mompos; they have likewise
brought rats, or large mice, which have come off the ships arriving
from Spain.

340 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XX -

Continuing the Description of the Preceding Theme.

1022. The iguana is built like a lizard, only larger and uglier. It
lives in the water and on trees, and nests in the sand in ravines and
along streams; and though that is a country of sudden rains which
cause floods and freshets in the rivers, the iguanas have such sure
instincts that at the time they choose for hatching their eggs, the
sky is clear and the river smooth and peaceful. These iguanas are
eaten roasted or fricasseed or in other ways, and you would think
you were eating chicken or rabbit.

1023. There are certain birds from whose notes the Indians derive
their auguries, and some Spaniards also; one of them is the bird
which in that country they call the Valdivia bird, and in other regions,
the guacagua. They call it the Valdivia bird because when the savages
burned down the fort and massacred this gentleman and the Span-
iards who were with him, these birds kept calling importunately
for 3 or 4 days; they are held to be harbingers of people’s approach-
ing death and of misfortunes. There are animals known as memeyes
which utter melancholy notes at night, but nobody has even seen
this animal, nor is it known what it looks like, nor has it ever been
caught.

1024. The Rio Cauca is very full of fish, particularly in summer,
when quantities come up from the marshes of the Rio Magdalena
to spawn in its shallows. The best fish in rivers tributary to the
Cauca is the sabaleta (shad) which looks and tastes like trout. There
are fish called donzellas, barbudos, bagrecillos white and small, others
very large; dorados, picudas, getudos, and bocachicos. After the
Rio Nichi falls into the Cauca, it turns W. and unites with the Rio
de La Magdalena 9 leagues below the town of Mompdos. It has
navigable tributaries, one being the Rio de San Jorge, which will
be described later.

CHAPTER X XI

Of the City of Zaragoza, of Its Rich Gold Mines, and Other
Features of Its District.

1025. The city of Zaragoza is built on the banks of the Rio Nichi,
5 leagues below where this river is joined by the Rio Porci. In
ancient times this country was the home of the Yamicies tribe of
Indians, but since it was subjugated by the Spaniards, they have
completely died out and disappeared, partly through voluntary action
on their part, since rather than be subject to the Spaniards they

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 341

preferred death and bled themselves to death from their noses, and
partly because the country is naturally unhealthy in the extreme.
The climate of this settlement and city is rather hot than cold; the
sun is never seen free from clouds.

1026. The Rio Nichi empties into the Cauca and is navigable up
to the point of its junction with the Rio Porci; accordingly Zaragoza
is well supplied with all products both of Spain and the New King-
dom of Granada. They bring what is necessary up the river in boats
and dugouts ; and they also import from Aburra and the Rio Negro
overland beef cattle and swine, with which it is abundantly provided,
although the country is essentially sterile and uninhabitable ; its only
product is its wealth of gold, which is responsible for everything else.

1027. Nature compensated for this with the prairies (sabanas)
of Tacasoluma, which is healthy country and covered with herds,
particularly cattle, which come here to get cured and recover from
the ailments contracted in Zaragoza. Zaragoza will contain 300
Spanish residents and many Negroes and mulattoes; it has active
trade and commerce in its jurisdiction. It has many mines of free
gold; they are the richest and best gold mines discovered in the
Indies. From 3,000 to 4,000 Negro slaves work in them, divided
up into gangs, with 300 Spanish miners.

1028. Every year they take out over 500,000 pesos worth of high-
grade gold. There is a Royal Treasury, a parish church, and a hospital
for the care of the indigent sick. The birds and animals are the same
as in Caceres, which lies 30 leagues away, over a very rough hard
trail, to the W.; to the E., Guamaco is 25 leagues distant; S. lies
the city of Los Remedios, which belongs in the Corregimiento of
Mariquita ; in between are the mines of Cana and Las Lajas; it will
be 12 leagues from Zaragoza, and 20 to Los Remedios. In the year
1598 many of the slaves revolted and wrecked the mines, killing the
Spanish miners and some of their masters; they fortified themselves
behind palisades and took up arms as if to destroy and exterminate
the Spaniards in that province. Everything being in confusion and
the Negroes in rebellion, their punishment and subjugation was en-
trusted to Juan Meléndez de Valdés, with the title of Captain General.
With the courage and energy he had displayed in large measure in
his campaigns and settlements in that State and several others pre-
viously, he put them to rout and killed many of them in the following
year, 1599; those whom he took alive were dealt summary justice ;
he broke up their palisade ; and having smoothed out all the difficulties,
he pacified the country, and the city and its residents enjoy tran-
quillity. It was founded by Gov. Gaspar de Rodas in the year 1580,

342 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXII

Of the Mines in the New Settlement of Guamaco.

1029. The Province of Guamacé was explored and settled by Capt.
Juan Pérez Garabito and Francisco Ortiz Chiquillo, in the year 1612.
Although word of the great wealth of this country had already
occasioned several expeditions, none was successful; the country is
rough and broken, supplies could not be brought in from any quarter,
and those sent in could not be preserved because of the humidity
and roughness of the region, which is rendered uninhabitable by its
crags and lofty mountains; there was even hardly enough food for
the horses and mules; in addition, rain falls without interruption the
whole year; so the first explorers withdrew without accomplishing
anything, unable to stand the inconveniences and hardships.

1030. In the year 1610 it was entered approximately from the W.
near the State of Popayan at the mouth of the Rio Caribona, where
it empties into the Rio Grande de La Magdalena, by Capt. Andrés
Diaz Calvo, a resident of Santa Fé de Bogota, with a large number
of Negroes and Indians at his own expense, exploring the country ;
but although he came upon very rich gold mines at many points, he
could not proceed farther and so returned, bringing word of the
great wealth there; but for the reasons given, nothing resulted at
that time.

1031. But later, man’s desire for wealth being able to overcome
difficulties, as this news of the great wealth of gold in this country
spread around, another second Hercules in strength and courage,
Capt. Juan Pérez Garabito, felt impelled to undertake this expedi-
tion; he was joined by Francisco Ortiz Chiquillo. He took along
many Negroes and other people at his own expense, with a priest for
what occasions might offer, Dr. Tomas de Andrada. After several
days’ journey under great difficulties they made a halt on their arrival
at a certain spot which seemed to them an agreeable site with a
suitable mild climate. They put up their tents and started prospecting
the country, finding many rich and profitable mines; so they settled
at this point and named it the city of San Francisco del Antigua
del Guamaco; the first name, because it was the Saint’s day when
they arrived there; and Antigua, because of the very holy image of
Nuestra Senora del Antigua in Seville, to which this pioneer was
devoted.

1032. When the settlement was established, they tendered allegiance
to the Circuit Court of Bogota, in whose jurisdiction it falls, and
on the ecclesiastical side, to the Bishop of Cartagena, asking to have

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 343

priests sent them for the consolation of their people and the admin-
istration of the Holy Sacraments. There being a vacancy, the Chapter
of the Holy Church, considering the great difficulties in the way,
this being new country and so rough and uninhabited, and that no
priest would venture to go there, nevertheless tried to send some,
but they all made excuses. So they finally sent one priest and com-
mitted to him the spiritual consolation of the new settlers and the
administration of the Holy Sacraments for a territory of over 1,000
souls, for they had flocked in from several quarters at the news of
the wealth there, with a large number of freshly imported Negroes
without the knowledge or the light of our Holy Faith. So being
appointed by the vacant seat as Curate and Vicar of that city and
province, he set out for it with zeal in the service of God and His
Majesty and for the good of their souls.

CHAPTER XXIII

Continuing the Description of the New Mines of Guamaco; and
of Other Matters.

1033. Having been appointed Curate and Vicar of the Province
of Guamaco and the new settlement, he made a journey from Carta-
gena of over 200 leagues. From Cartagena he went up the Rio
Grande de La Magdalena, a very unpleasant and uncomfortable trip,
as is well known, against the strong current of the river, with its
great heat and the annoyance of various sorts of mosquitoes, and
the risk and danger of alligators and other trials of the river journey.
Finally they arrived at a port on the Rio de Cemiti (Gemiti?), where
the encomendero of the Indians is Capt. Pablo Duran de Cogollos,
a resident of the town of Mompos in the State of Cartagena.

1034. At that moment Capt. Alexandrino Ramirez was at the port,
with the intention of going on and blazing a trail through there
suitable for transporting provisions, having learned that the people
there would die of hunger and perish; and the wealth of the country
roused his ambition not to let it be abandoned. So this Capt.
Alexandrino Ramirez and the priest took up their journey, and in
15 days’ time they opened up a suitable trail for a distance of 20
leagues, though with great difficulty ; and God was pleased to bring
them in this fashion to the new city and many supplies are sent in.

1035. The new mines have turned out to be very rich, and His
Majesty’s 20 percent keeps growing, for with the settlement’s pros-
perity and wealth, many Spanish settlers have come in, bosses of
gangs of 30 slaves, and up to 80 and 100. This locality has a very

344 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

temperate climate the whole year, like spring, neither hot nor cold,
but it rains most of the year, which is a good thing for the extraction
of the gold and the working of the mines. The land is sterile and
bears no crops; its only wealth is gold; but for love of it they flock
here from all sides, from Cartagena, from the State of Santa Marta
and from the New Kingdom, with supplies, so that it is well provided
with everything.

CHAPTER XXIV

Of the Town of San Jeronimo del Monte and Its Rich Gold Mines.

1036. The town of San Jerénimo del Monte is built on the hill
of Pirura; it has a good and agreeable climate. Its district has the
same animals and birds as Caceres, from which it is 24 leagues
distant. Seven leagues from the town runs the Rio de San Jorge,
which empties into the Cauca; some dugouts come up it. There are
10 encomenderos in this town; they raise what is needful in products
of the soil.

1037. There are very rich mines of free gold, and two hills which
are paved with veins of this precious metal. In the ravine of Urare,
a Negro belonging to Don Francisco Vélez de Guevara, by name
Lorenzo, found a gold nugget which weighed goo pesos ; many others
have been found of 400, 200, and 100, so that this region is one of the
richest in the world in this metal.

1038. There are in this district many aromatic trees; abundance
of canime oil, turpentine, balsam, copal, benzoin, and other aromatic
resins, with quantities of game and fish. This town was settled and
built in the year 1595 by Capt. Juan de Erano, of the Kingdom of
Navarre, native of the town of Luquin. He was a valiant cavalier
in the conquest of all that State, being Lieutenant General of Gov.
Andrés de Valdivia. He named it San Jeronimo del Monte in com-
memoration of his wife, Doha JerOnima de Valdivia.

CHAPTER XX V

Of the City of Mariquita, otherwise known as San Sebastian de
La Plata, for the Rich Mines It Contains.

1039. The city of Mariquita, called San Sebastian de La Plata,
is on the outskirts of the State of Popayan, 30 leagues SW. of the
city of Bogota. It was established and settled in an agreeable level
spot on the banks of the Rio Guali, 3 leagues from the port of Honda
on the Rio de La Magdalena. It is the capital of a Corregimiento,
to which His Majesty appoints in consultation with the Supreme

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vVAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 345

Council of the Indies. It will contain 150 Spanish residents, among
them 24 encomenderos of Indians of the Panches tribe; they were
brave and warlike cannibals, and had public feasts of human flesh.

1040. In this city there is a parish church and a Dominican and
a Franciscan convent. Its climate is rather hot than cold, and the
country is rough; it has cattle and sheep ranches, sugar plantations,
and quantities of native fruit. Fish are abundant in the rivers, and
there are rich mines of free gold, for the ground is full of it.
Guillermo de Vergara, grandfather of Ensign Utrera, campaigned
in these provinces and in those of Pamplona.

1041. Here are the Lajas de Plata (Silver Slab) mines, which
are very rich; they have 32 mills to grind the ore. This city was
founded and settled in the year 1536 by Commander Don Sebastian
de Belalcazar; the Indians massacred many Spaniards, and later,
seven of his encomenderos. Some Spanish captains came in to
chastise the savages, but they never could accomplish anything, for
the savages were warlike and the country very rough and rocky.

1042. Finally the task of pacification was entrusted to Gen. Juan
Meléndez de Valdés, a gentleman of well-known energy, caution,
and courage; in the numerous fights he had with them, he broke
them up and defeated them, killing many of them, until he subdued
them and brought them into servitude, since when they have stayed
quiet and peaceful there.

1048. The town of Timana is in this Corregimiento; it is 60
leagues from Bogota, and was established by Capt. Lope de Salzedo
Iauregui as a station on the way to the State of Popayan and the
Kingdoms of Peru, and to open up a route for the commerce of those
provinces. It is 4o leagues from Popayan; it was founded by Com-
mander Don Sebastian de Belalcazar in the year 1537. There used
to be in this jurisdiction and province more than 20,000 Indians.
The city has a very delightful and healthy climate, and looks attrac-
tive and handsome; it possesses abundant pasturelands for cattle, and
so there are large ranches. The Indians and the Spaniards in this
country make very good preserves, for they have abundance of wild
honey gathered and stored by the bees in the woods, and much
excellent fruit to make them with, and in particular, very good
almonds which grow on tall trees, out of which they make delicious
nougat, which they take to the Almaguer mines and others; for in
all those provinces there are many deposits of gold ore.

1044, In this jurisdiction of Timana there are large plantations
or chacras of the prized coca of the Indians, which for them is a
magic herb. The shrubs which produce it are low ; the leaves look like

346 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

myrtle leaves. The Indians keep it in their mouths all day long,
for they say it gives them strength, and when they go without and
then take it up again, it takes away their sense of hunger, thirst,
and fatigue. In short, it has for the Indians the same virtues as
tobacco for tobacco users.

1045. They gather and work up quantities of very fine henequen
fiber, all of which has an excellent market. Every week in Timana
they have fairs or markets, to which come all the Indians of the
neighborhood and the province, and trade with the Spaniards, who
are well off in this city, for it has a delightful healthy climate ; hence
they raise in the district many kinds of native and Spanish fruit in
abundance. The city is on the other side of the Cordillera, and is
well supplied with excellent provisions. People live there largely on
account of its equable climate and its healthfulness.

CHAPTER XX VI

Of the City of Los Remedios and Its Rich Mines; and of Other
Cities.

1046. The city of Los Remedios is 24 leagues from Bogota, in
a rough mountainous country. It has a hot climate and its neigh-
borhood is unproductive. It was established in the province of the
Patangora tribe, 30 leagues from the city of Antioquia. In its moun-
tains there are many fierce tigers, which have killed many people,
for they are man killers ; and there are many other kinds of animals. ()
The district of this city has the same kinds of animals, birds, fruit,
and fish as that of Caceres.

1047. The city will have 30 Spanish residents and 15 encomenderos,
with a parish church. It has rich mines of gold, both free and in
veins ; they have taken out a large amount of gold, but of low grade.
Its commerce comes in over the Rio Naré, which empties into the
Magdalena, near the port of Honda. Spanish merchandise comes in
also by the Rio Nichi and through Zaragoza, being brought in from
there overland on muleback.

1048. From Antioquia and the Aburra Valley are imported cattle
and hogs for their sustenance. This city was established and settled,
and its Indian allotments made, by Gen. Lope de Salzedo Iauregui
in the year 1552, among those who helped him in its exploration
and conquest. All this country is full of deposits of gold, free and
in veins, for this whole country is paved with this metal.

1049. The city of Ibagué is 30 leagues W. of Bogota. It has a
hot climate and is rich in gold ore, with abundance of fruit, cattle,
and poultry, like the others which have been described. This city

ae
i ens re

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 347

was founded and settled under orders and a commission from the
Circuit Court by Capt. Andrés Lopez de Galarza in the year 1551

to prevent the depredations committed by the Indians of this province,
united with those of Tocaima and Cartago, on persons traveling to

the State of Popayan.

1050. The city of Vitoria is 50 leagues NW. of Bogota; it was

founded and settled by this same Capt. Andrés Lopez de Galarza,

but it has already been abandoned. This country abounds in fruit,
animals, and birds; it has a few gold mines.
1051. The city of Tocaima is 15 leagues E. of Bogota and is built

on the banks of the Rio Grande de La Magdalena. It has a very

hot climate and is supplied with everything necessary for human
existence. There is a parish church and a Dominican convent. The
Royal Circuit Court named Lope de Salzedo Iauregui as General
for the villages of this province, to resist the corsair Lope de Aguirre,
who had come down the Marafidn and had then looted Margarita,

leaving after having done much damage and killed many citizens of

that city. Then he struck in via Borburata and the State of Caracas,
with the idea of entering the New Kingdom of Granada, but God
intercepted his path, and he was defeated and killed in the year 1561
in the city of Tucuyo by the valiant Militia Captain of His Majesty’s
forces, Diego Garcia de Paredes, conqueror of the Provinces of
Cuicas, and founder and settler of the city of Trujillo in those

provinces; he came from the city of Trujillo in Estremadura in

Spain of the noble manorial family of the great Diego Garcia de

Paredes, glory and honor of our Spanish nation; and although in

this life he did not receive his deserts, God honored him in his death,

for he was sought out by the greatest monarchs in the world, the

Supreme Pontiff and the Emperor Charles V ; the Pontiff responded
for his soul and the Emperor for his debts and obligations. And

since I have made some mention at this point of the corsair, for it
was in this province that men were found to stop him, however out
of place it may seem, I shall nevertheless recount briefly in the
following chapter other cruelties which he perpetrated in Margarita

before he left there, and the subsequent events, up to his death.

CHAPTER XXVII
Of the Cruelties Perpetrated by the Rebel Lope de Aguirre; and

of What Followed, up to His Disastrous End and Miserable Death.

1052. As soon as the freebooter Lope de Aguirre had treacherously

_ gained possession of the island and city of Margarita, and had cap-

348 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tured its Governor, Alcaldes, and other officials and highly placed
citizens, Pedro Alonso revolted at the thought of standing his inhuman
cruelties any longer. This excellent man had come down out of Peru
with Gov. Pedro de Ursua, and at several critical moments had
come near losing his life with this tyrant. Feeling that he was not
safe with him, and trusting himself rather to the stormy billows
of a swollen sea, he ran away one night and in a small dugout crossed
to the mainland, bringing word everywhere of the corsair’s approach,
so that they might anticipate him and arm themselves.

1053. At this time Capt. Monguia tendered his allegiance to the
Provincial, Fray Francisco Montesinos, and Aguirre’s cruelties alien-
ated Ensign Villena, who was surfeited with them; he was guest
of one of the leading ladies of that city, named Ana de Rojas, so
the tyrant had her hanged, and her husband with her, who was one
of the chief pioneers in that country; and he made a soldier named
Figueroa, his peer in evil habits and deeds, murder three friars in
the Franciscan convent, and among them one sainted old man who
was loved and revered for his virtue and sanctity by everyone, Fray
Andrés de Valdés. The corsair perpetrated many other cruelties
and murders, and left the poor city looted and devastated, and most
of its residents murdered. Then he went to the port of Borburata,
where he knifed and killed two of his own soldiers because they
could no longer stand his inhumanities, and the attacks, assaults, and
other crimes they committed on the girls and honorable married
women, and the other robberies and cruelties.

1054. From Borburata he went on to Nueva Valencia, which had
already been deserted by its inhabitants, fleeing from his infernal
madness, although he did capture one noble gentleman, a resident of
the city, named Don Julian, who had been unable to get away quickly
enough with his wife and children and mother-in-law; Pedro Arias
his father-in-law had escaped, so Aguirre ordered him to go and
bring him back, under penalty of knifing his wife, children, and
mother-in-law if he did not; so the wretched gentleman had to go
after him and bring him to the slaughterhouse, thinking in this way
to save his dear pledges from the bloodthirsty wolf.

1055. Pablo Collado was Governor at this time in the city of Barqui-
simeto. When he learned of the corsair’s fury, he thought he would
abandon the country with some of his followers; but as the tyrant’s
approach had already been heralded all over the country, many gentle-
man pioneers flocked in from all sides to resist the corsair, though
inadequately armed. Among them were valiant Marshal Gutierre

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 349

de la Pena, Pedro Bravo de Molina, valiant Diego Garcia de Paredes,
and Capt. Pedro Alonso Galeas, who was the principal instrument
of this victory ; he had come up from Peru and had left his company,
rousing and heartening all the country against the tyrant. With the
others whom I do not enumerate for fear of prolixity, there were
assembled 200 valiant soldiers, so that Gov. Pablo Collado was much
encouraged and arranged defense.

1056. The corsair had 176 skillful harquebussiers, many small
pieces of artillery, munitions and other instruments of war, and
much baggage. Cruel, inhuman, and godless as he was, finding the
city of Barquisimeto deserted by its inhabitants, he stopped there,
and made Don Juan de Corella burn down the church in that city,
so as to have him as security, and committed a thousand other
abominations.

1057. At that moment Gov. Pablo Collado appointed as General,
Marshal Gutierre de la Pefia, commanding the right wing of His
Majesty’s army, with Pedro Bravo de Molina commanding the left ;
as Militia Captain, valiant Diego Garcia de Paredes, who held that
post in that country; as Cavalry Captain, Diego Ruiz, the Governor’s
Lieutenant General.

1058. Before looking over the territory for giving battle when
the rebel appeared, the valiant Militia Captain Diego Garcia de
Paredes went out with 40 soldiers on a reconnoissance of the rebel’s
forces. They took up their position where they could not be seen;
and having reconnoitred the troop he was leading, he dashed down
with his 40 soldiers and engaged all the corsair’s baggage, guns, and
munitions and other supplies which he was carrying, and cut them off.
That was the total ruin of the rebel and his men, and the preparation
for their destruction by His Majesty’s army, and for the winning
of such a great victory.

CHAPTER XXVIII

How the Rebel’s Army Was Broken up, Thanks to the Energy
and Circumspection of Valiant Diego Garcia de Paredes.

1059. Now that Militia Captain Diego Garcia de Paredes with his
men had deprived the rebel of his baggage, munitions, and supplies,
he was forced to retire to a fort he had built in Barquisimeto. Find-
ing himself in need through lack of provisions, and being surrounded
by His Majesty’s army, he sent 100 harquebussiers to find some
supplies for his men. This being learned by the sentinels of His

350 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Majesty’s camp, they followed them and overtook them, so that they —
forced them to retreat and retire to their fort, from which the rebel
came out to their aid; but many of them were tired of their criminal j
career or were dispirited by their necessities; they learned that the —
Governor would send them pardon in His Majesty’s name, and were
won over by loyalist Capt. Pedro Alonso, so that many abandoned
Aguirre; nevertheless he kept defending his fort with bravery.
But seeing that he was lost, he took a daughter who accompanied
him in the company of other women, among whom was Joana de —
Torralba, and stabbed her to death, telling her that since they were —
now lost, she should die, and not be called the daughter of a traitor, —
or a traitoress.

1060. Having made away with her the eve of the day of the Holy —

Apostles Sts. Simon and Jude in the year 1561, he defended his fort
that night with the few stubborn men who remained with him; and
the day of the Holy Apostles in the morning the valiant Militia Cap-
tain Diego Garcia de Paredes made his way into the fort with three —
soldiers, one a loyalist named N. de Ledesma, and two of those of —
his group, Galindo and Guerrero, eager to take him. They begged
to be allowed to kill the wild beast, and so God permitted that ac-
cursed wretch, who had deprived so many persons of life without
confession, to die without that consolation. Accordingly with his —
permission they gave him a blow from which he dropped dead at
once ; they cut off his head and carried it to Tucuyo, where they held |
a great celebration, giving thanks to God for joy over such a great
victory, and every year they hold it in commemoration, on the day —
of the Holy Apostles. And so the country remained peaceful and
tranquil, now that the world was rid of such a criminal.

1061. Immediately the Governor sent to have Figueroa brought to
justice, and his quarters displayed on the highway, for his murders —
of the Franciscan friars in Margarita and other evil deeds he had ~

perpetrated ; and many others also, his accomplices in serious crimes. _

Another with a long criminal record, by name Paniagua, who had ~
fled in apprehension over his guilt, was caught by Pedro de Molina
in the city of Mérida; and having been proved guilty of many crimes,
he was sentenced to be hanged and his quarters exposed on the
highway. A certain Antonio Llamoso, the vile creature who on the —
Marafion, after the tyrant had killed worthy Gov. Pedro de Ursua,
was commissioned by him to murder Dofia Inés de Atiensa, and put _
that poor lady to death with inhuman cruelty, fled from the rigors —
of justice under accusation for his crimes. He went and stopped —
off in the city of Pamplona, which had been founded by Pedro de

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 352

Ursua, and was being governed by a valiant gentleman named Orttn
Velasco. Here for this crime and many others he had committed,
they hanged him and he was drawn and quartered; such was the
end of those who had followed so evil a path. Herewith I conclude
this chapter, to discuss Popayan in the following one.

CHAPTER XXIX

Of the City of Timana and Its District.

1062. The city of Timana lies 60 leagues S. of Bogota on the
King’s Highway to Quito and the Kingdoms of Peru; it is 40 leagues
this side of Popayan. Within the territory of this city, the districts
of the Circuit Courts of Bogota and Quito meet; Timana comes
under the jurisdiction of that of Bogota, and of the State and Dio-
cese of Popayan, although most of that State comes within the district
of the Circuit Court of Quito; at the death of the Governor, his
successor ad interim is appointed by the President of the Circuit
Court of Bogota in the New Kingdom of Granada.

1063. The city has a hot climate and is very pleasant, but there
are only a few Spanish residents. It has within its jurisdiction rich
beds and veins of gold ore, and there are large gold-washing outfits
on all the rivers. In this city they make up quantities of very fine
twist henequen fiber, and some cotton cloth. On the E. they have
wide rich provinces of heathen to be converted to the Faith, and in
that direction they are very close to those of Eldorado, which have
been so sought after and not found by the many who have set out
for them, the great impediment being the roughness of the mountains
and the wide extent of the country.

1064. From this city of Timana the King’s Highway runs to Quito
and all the Kingdom of Peru, along the Neiva Valley, which is level
and attractive country, with excellent side valleys and a good climate ;
their slopes and waters run into the Rio Grande de La Magdalena.
In this Neiva Valley there are countless stray and wild cattle without
owners, descended from those brought in by the Spaniards when
they founded the city of Simancas; this was settled by Gov. Don
Bernardo de Vargas Machuca; nearby was established the town of
Neiva; but they were abandoned after several years because of bad
administration and of the fatal proximity of the Pijaos Indians, whose
raids caused much damage. These are strong and sturdy; their
weapons are very strong lances 25: palms long, with an iron point
at each end, and also throwing darts; in former days they used to
use war clubs made of a very tough, hard palm, as heavy as iron;

352 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

they used to make their lance points of it. Now they make use of
iron from the swords and knives and other articles of steel and
iron which they have taken and stolen from the travelers on their
way from the New Kingdom to Peru. These savages are a depraved
race, and cannibals; they live like the Bedouin, without towns or
villages. They have certain moons in which they go raiding and
pillaging other provinces adjoining; and they return from their
raiding and plundering loaded with captives, whom they divide up
among themselves, to be eaten, for which they hold cannibal feasts.
They usually get as far as the city of Tocaima, which is 40 leagues
from Bogota.

Boox III

Of the District of the Circuit Court of Quito, Containing a Descrip-
tion of Its Provinces and What They Comprise. [The Different
Kinds of Country and Their Nature; the Native and Spanish
Products They Bear; of the Gold and Silver Mines, the Cloth Mills,
the Rites and Customs of the Indians; the Cities and Towns of
Spaniards, with Their Establishment; the Posts of Governor, Cor-
regidor, and Other Offices Filled by His Majesty in Consultation
with the Supreme Council of the Indies, with the Salaries Paid; the
Corregimientos and Other Offices Filled by the Viceroy; together
with the Other Curious and Noteworthy Features of This Region. ]

CHAPTER I

Of the City of Popayan, Capital of Its State and Diocese.

1065. The city of Popayan is 40 leagues from Timana and 100
from Bogota, to the S. It is built on a hill or slope of a ridge which
they call M, from the resemblance of its shape to this letter. Round
about the city flow two small streams which take their rise about a
league away. These provinces were subdued by Commander Sebastian
de Belalcazar, and after he had pacified them he founded the city
in the year 1536, on this site described above, at 2°30’ N. It has
a better than springlike climate, and is very well supplied with pro-
visions. They raise quantities of wheat, corn, and many other cereals
and vegetables, both Spanish and native sorts, as is true also of
fruit. They have large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches, and excellent
horses and mules.

1066. The city has 300 Spanish residents, plus the troop of service
classes, Yanacona Indians, Negroes, and mulattoes. It is the residence
of the Governor and the Bishop of these provinces; there is a very
fine Cathedral here, with Bishop and Prebendaries in residence for
its service. They have three convents, Dominican, Franciscan, and
Augustinian; a nunnery of Augustinian nuns; there is a hospital
which serves as parish church for the Yanacona Indians who reside
in the city and serve the Spaniards; some of them are artisans.
There are in this city Officials of the Royal Patrimony: a Paymaster
and a Treasurer.

1067. Eleven leagues from the city there is a paramo known as
Papallacta, cold and inhospitable for all that it is under the Equator,

24 353

354 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. LOZ

being a very lofty range whose ascent is 5 leagues long; on its top
is a medium-sized lake which is the source and origin of the two
famous mighty rivers paved with gold, the Magdalena and the Cauca.
The Magdalena runs N. through a more easterly region, down the
Neiva Valley; the Cauca, on the W. side through the State of
Popayan. Rising in this little lake, and flowing each of them over 200
leagues, they finally unite 4 leagues from Tenerife in the Diocese of
Santa Marta, some 30 leagues before they empty into the sea, which
they enter together, forming one of the hugest and mightiest rivers
in the world. After their junction they take the name of Rio Grande.

1068. This city and State contain in their district the following
cities: The city of Cali, 22 leagues from Popayan and 28 from the
Pacific ; it was founded by Capt. Miguel Mufioz in the year 1537 at
the order of Commander Belalcazar at the foot of a sierra in a
pleasant level valley with a hot climate ; it has abundant and excellent
supplies of meat, fruit, and fish. It has a parish church and two
convents, Augustinian and Mercedarian. The Indians of this region
are good Christians and well-disposed. The former lord of this
country was named Peteylili. It has in its district good sugar planta-
tions and cattle ranches, and within its jurisdiction it has the port
of Buena Ventura on the Pacific, at 3°30’ N.

1069. The city of Buga is 12 leagues N. of Cali; it has a springlike
climate and excellent provisions and fruit. It has wonderful pasturage
in its district, and many ranches there with large herds of cattle.
It was founded by Commander Sebastian de Belalcazar in the year
1537; it has a parish church and a Dominican convent. —

1070. The city of Toro is 14 leagues from Guadalajara de Buga;
it was founded in the same year by Commander Belalcazar. It has
a good climate, and in its district there are rich gold-ore beds and
deposits ; it has large cattle ranches and abundance of delicious fruit,
fish, and other supplies.

CHAPTER II

Of the City of .Cartago, and Other Provinces of the District of
Popayan.

1071. The city of Cartago is 10 leagues from Toro. It was founded
in the year 1540 by Capt. Jorge de Robledo under orders from Com-
mander Sebastian de Belalcdzar. It is over 30 leagues from Popayan.
It has in its district rich mines and alluvial deposits of gold, which
gets washed down into the rivers from the ravines of its sierras by
the continual heavy rains. Many tigers live here, lions, tapirs, and

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 355

other fierce animals, which do very great damage in the herds of
cattle, mares, and swine on the ranches. They raise quantities of
corn and other cereals, and are excellently provided with native fruit.
In this city there are a parish church, a Franciscan convent, and
other shrines.

1072. Between this city, Guadalajara de Buga, and Toro, lies the
Indian village of Rondanillo, where the Governor of Popayan ap-
points a Corregidor ; the Circuit Courts of Popayan and Quito touch
in its district.

1073. The town of Santa Ana de Anzerma is in the district of
the Circuit Court of Bogota, and in the State and Diocese of Popayan.
It was founded by Capt. Jorge de Robledo by order of Lorenzo de
Aldana in the year 1540 on the banks of the Rio Cauca, to prevent
the harm done by the Indians of this district, who were very savage
cannibals. It has a hot climate, very subject to thunderbolts, and
somewhat unhealthy, but with very rich gold ore and alluvial deposits.
It has a parish church and a Franciscan convent.

1074. The town of Santiago de Arma is in the district of the
Circuit Court of Bogota; it is 50 leagues NE. of Popayan, in whose
diocese it belongs ; it is in the State of Antioquia. It has a hot climate,
and is a foundation of Marshal Jorge de Robledo. It has in its
district rich gold ore and alluvial deposits. There are a few farms
and cattle and hog ranches. It has the fruit usual in the Indies.

1075. Fifteen leagues NE. of Santiago de Arma, and 65 from
Popayan, lies the town of Caramanta, established on an excellent
and attractive site near the Rio Cauca. It belongs in the district
of the Circuit Court of Bogota and in the State of Antioquia, and
ecclesiastically to the Diocese of Popayan. The Indians of this region
were very bestial, eating one another up, which is the reason why
there are few Indians today. This is a foundation of Commander
Belalcazar, who cut off Marshal Jorge de Robledo’s head in Arma.
This town has a hot climate; in its district it has rich gold ore and
alluvial deposits ; they raise quantities of corn and other cereals and
vegetables ; there are cattle, mare, and mule ranches.

CHAPTER III

Of the City of Almaguer, and Other Cities in the District of
Popayan.

1076. The city of Almaguer is 24 leagues SW. of Popayan, and
has a hot climate. It has in its district rich gold mines and alluvial
deposits. There are a few cattle and mule ranches, and abundance

356 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of provisions and native fruit. It has a parish church and a Fran-
ciscan convent. On the other side of the Cordillera live the Paeses
and Pijaos Indians; the town of Neiva was built near them, but
was abandoned on account of the barbarities of these savages, who
ravaged, robbed, and murdered and time and again waged actual war ;
although many of them were killed or starved or betrayed by slaves,
that was not enough to quiet and tranquillize them, but they keep
going from one point to another like fierce wild beasts doing what
harm they can, and there has been no decisive action with them,
this being rough country with much woods, forests, rivers, and
swamps. In this city of Almaguer a resident Corregidor is appointed
by the Governor of Popayan, both for the administration of justice
and for the defense of the country against these savages.

1077. The city of Mocoa in this State is on the same parallel as
Pasto to the E. It has a few Spanish residents; the climate is hot
and they raise much cotton in its district; they have rich gold mines
and alluvial deposits.

1078. The city of Calacoto, on the frontier of the Paeses Indians,
is 16 leagues E. of Popayan; the climate is hot. It has a few Spanish
residents. Near this city is the home of the Sucumbios tribe, where
the city of Agreda has been established. All these provinces are rich
in gold mines and alluvial deposits, but for lack of labor they do
not get much out and enjoy this great wealth, for all this country
ranks among the richest in the world in gold.

1079. They have some cattle ranches and raise corn and much
native fruit; the climate is hot. Furthermore, in all the ravines and
streams of this State, gold is found in abundance, to such a degree
that in the cities the very sweepings of the houses and the dirt, when
washed, yields gold, for it is all paved with this metal. This is why
their gold shows the greatest variety in quality that is known or
observed anywhere in the world; for it runs from under 12 carats
to over 23, and if there were only people instead of the present lack
of labor, since there is abundance of mineral, this country would
be among the richest in the world.

CHAPTER IV

Continuing the Description of the District of Popayan, and in
Especial of Pasto and of the Sources of the Great River Orinoco.
1080. The city of San Juan de Pasto was founded by Capt. Lorenzo
de Aldana in the year 1539. He called it Villa Viciosa, for the site
where he established it is very pleasant and attractive, with wide

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA B57,

pasturage for cattle. It is a little beyond 1° N., and has a springlike
climate. It is on the King’s Highway between Popayan, 40 leagues
to the N., and Quito, 44 to the S. It is in the district of the State
of Popayan, and ecclesiastically, in the Diocese of Quito. The Pacific
lies 40 leagues W.; its location is opposite Gorgona.

1081. The country is very prolific ; provisions are cheap and excel-
lent. They raise much wheat, corn, and other cereals in abundance,
both Spanish and indigenous. They have very fine sugar plantations,
and all kinds of Spanish and native fruit, with large cattle and sheep
ranches and countless hogs, with which they supply this country and
ordinarily export much to Lima, a distance of 400 leagues; there
are also mare and mule ranches, quantities of poultry, and rich gold
ore, though of low grade. In its jurisdiction, together with that of
Pasto, it has more than 24,000 Indians, who have not been dying
off, as in other provinces. These Indians work as agricultural
laborers and on the hog ranches.

1082. The city has over 300 residents, with an excellent parish
church and Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Mercedarian
convents, a nunnery and a hospital for the care of the indigent sick.
The city is well laid out and supplied with cheap and excellent pro-
visions. The Governor of Popayan appoints a Corregidor here, for
its good government and the administration of justice. In this
province there is a stream of hot water, very pleasant to the taste;
it is on the King’s Highway from Pasto to Popayan. After this
river comes the sierra from which Gonzalo Pizarro pursued Viceroy
Blasco Nunez Vela in the year 1545 up to the Rio Angasmayu,
which was the limit of the conquests of King Huayna Capac. This
river of hot water comes down from a volcano which is continually
emitting flame and smoke, beyond the sierra; it has erupted in times
past, and done great damage in the country.

1083. On this paramo of Papallacta, near the lake where the Magda-
lena and the Cauca have their source, another lake gives rise to the
Rio de Saqueta, which flows E., and at 4o leagues from its source
runs through the city of Agreda, which has been established in the
Province of Mozoa in a wooded country; it has some Io encomen-
deros, with 400 Indians in their service. It belongs to the State of
Popayan.

1084. Beyond this city, this Rio de Saqueta becomes very sizable,
and runs through level country, though surrounded by mountains.
This river is the main stream of the great river Orinoco, which
traverses the Province of Guiana and empties into the Atlantic by
so many mouths that it forms a sea. Crossing the Cordillera to the

358 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

W. of this city, one comes to the city of San Juan de Pasto, at a
distance of 38 leagues; 8 leagues before reaching the city, there is
a prairie valley named Sinbundoy, where three rivers originate, the
Rios de San Pedro, Santiago, and San Francisco, all of which are
likewise components of the great river Orinoco; at the end of the
valley within a distance of 2 leagues all three unite and burst through
the Cordillera, and running E. receive the name of Purumayu. Six
leagues from this valley and two leagues before Pasto, there is a
paramo on whose summit lies a very deep lake which will be ten
leagues around. This gives rise to another river which is likewise
a component of the Orinoco. It runs straight E., and at 14 leagues
from its source it passes near the city called Nuestra Sefiora del
Valle de Ecija in the Province of the Sucumbios in the State of
Popayan. This is mountainous country; the province contains 500
Indians, under bondage to 18 Spanish encomenderos.

CHAPTER V

Continuing the Description of This Country and the Rio Orinoco,

1085. Twenty leagues below this city to the E., this Rio de La
Laguna unites with the Rio de Purumayu to form a mighty stream
with a gentle current, for it flows through level country. From Ecija
it runs along the slope of the Cordillera to the S., and at 10 leagues
distance it unites with two other rivers, the Rio Azuela and the Rio
Rodela; they form a mighty stream which the Spaniards call the
Rio San Miguel; this runs E., and flows into the Rio Purumayu
45 leagues below the city of Ecija, forming ‘a great, broad, deep
stream, sometimes over a league wide from bank to bank, with large
numbers of islands. Fifteen leagues S. one comes to another junction
of two rivers, named Zimba and Aguarico, of the Province of Puzi,
and Cofanes. The union of these two large rivers forms a mighty
stream which the Spaniards call the Rio del Oro, for there is much
gold in this province; it runs E. This is the end of the Diocese of
Quito. Traveling 3 leagues S. from this river, one comes to the
city of San Pedro de Alcala del Rio Dorado in the State of Los
Quixos, a region with few Indians; there will be 300 in this province,
in bondage to 10 encomenderos. This country is all mountainous and
heavily wooded.

1086. From this city to Baeza, capital of the State of Los Quixos,
it will be 30 leagues to the S.; from Baeza to Quito, which is to
the W., 20 leagues. Within its boundaries is a paramo named Anti-
sana whose slopes give rise to two rivers; one, on the N., is called

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 359

the Rio de la Coca; it runs E., passing near the city of Baeza. The
other rises on the S. slope at a little beyond 1° N. and is called the
Rio Napo; it unites with the Rio de la Coca some 50 leagues below
its source, and runs E. [Near the junction of these two, Orellana
embarked at the order of Gonzalo Pizarro in the year 1541 in a
brigantine to explore the country and search for food for the army,
from which fact this great river took the name of Rio de Orellana. |
After their junction some 70 leagues downstream they unite with
the Rio del Oro, which forms a huge stream, broad and deep, which
is the Orinoco; its waters run steadily E. Along this downward
course there are many provinces and settlements of Indians; they
are heathen idolaters, with differences in their clothing and cere-
monies. Some, by name Ycaguates, are naked cannibal savages,
although their country produces abundance of meat in the form of
deer, tapirs, and other animals, and many varieties of game and fish,
both those living in the rivers and those which come up from the
Atlantic. There are other tribes: those named Omaguas, people who
wear clothing, ingenious and civilized; [others named] Buaques;
[and others] Abalios; [others] Micuaras; [and others] Quilibinas ;
and [others] Apalaques, with many other tribes, whose names are
unknown, for they are numerous and the country very extensive.
Some go naked, others make clothing out of the bark of trees, others
out of coarse cotton; some worship a tree, others a rock, others the
river, and others make gods out of animals. The weapons they use
are lances and darts of palm wood and small shields made of wood
or in some cases out of raw tapir hide. They war with each other
to get victims for cannibal feasts, or to deprive their enemies of their
lands and their women.

1087. Between this river and the Rio Purumayu there is an island
of firm ground which is 30 leagues across at its widest point. These
two rivers unite over 270 leagues below the Cordillera, and at the
end of this island above the junction point there is a very large
province stretching from one river to the other and named Aricana;
the natives wear clothing and are very particular in having their
cotton cloth painted with a brush; the Indian women wear for foot
covering small half boots and half hose made of cotton, worked up
with great skill and blacked with a sort of polish so that from a
distance it looks like leather; they wear their hair caught up with
red cotton ribbons, very neatly; they have their persons adorned
with jewels, gold, and featherwork. Their houses are very carefully
built ; their dishes are very neatly fashioned out of clay with much
decoration. They are a very warlike people; they always travel on

360 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the rivers in very large dugouts all of a piece, like great boats ; these
form their navies against other tribes. Their weapons are lances and
throwing darts, which they call estolica, like tournament darts; they
have small round shields of tapir leather.

1088. In this country the hills get low and from here downstream
it is level prairie land, called San Juan de Los Llanos. Below the
union of these two rivers they are joined by the Rio de Saqueta ;
the island between this river and the Purumayu will be some 50
leagues across, and in length from that point of union to that with
the San Miguel, over 100 leagues. Within those bounds of length
and width there is not a league of waste land; it is all occupied in
the form of settlements or small villages every half league, or quarter
or less, some only a gunshot apart, by clans. Each village has 1o,
15, 20, or 30 houses; each house has 5 or 6 family fireplaces, or more ;
these people are all clothed and very intelligent. Both men and women
have their heads clipped crown-fashion, like friars. Their weapons
are lances and darts of palm wood with fishbone points; they put
poison on them, but it is not deadly, merely paralyzing the wounded
person for 24 hours. The shields they use are made of thick, heavy
planking, over a yard across. They are very industrious folk; they
use stone axes and cut down very thick trees with them. They plant
crops and raise much corn, beans, peanuts, and other cereals and
vegetables in abundance; they make cassava of wild yucca; they eat
meat and fish, which are to be found in abundance in those provinces.

1089. When they go out to battle, they march in troops, and in
one battalion of their squadrons they take along many Indians loaded
with bundles of throwing darts to be handed to those who have
disposed of those they brought with them. In each of their villages
there is a drum, and when they call to arms on it, in an instant it is
known 100 leagues around, for that is the way they notify one another.

1090. Their custom is to burn dead bodies and give the ashes to
the bravest to drink; they receive them willingly and assemble for
this all their relatives, friends, and neighbors. They are all of one
language, though of different provinces ; some call themselves Neguas,
others Sefios, others Tamas, others Acanecos, others Atuares, and
there are still other tribes.

1091. From these last river junctions going downstream toward
the E., NE. and SE., there are large settlements behind a low cor-
dillera, which comes to an end above these junctions; they say there
is very great wealth of gold and silver there, and that at its foot
there is one village or city which has over 3 leagues of habitations,
and the great majority of its inhabitants are silversmiths, who turn

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 361

out many pieces of jewelry and curiosities fashionable among them,
in gold, and the people round about trade food and other commodities
for them; it is generally believed that there are very large settlements
of people of other tribes which are quite civilized, with rich clothing
of woolen and cotton cloth very skillfully woven; all the buildings
in their cities and their homes are of stone and very attractive; [and
reason makes this credible because the heart of this country has an
excellent climate and topography; and it is certain] they have in
those great provinces a king to whom all pay obedience as was done
with the Incas in Peru and Motezuma in New Spain. [And since
I shall write about these regions when I come to describe the city
of Moyabamba in the Diocese of Trujillo when I tell of the expedi-
- tion headed by Gen. Pedro de Ursua, let what I have written on
this subject suffice for the present. ]

CHAPTER VI

Of the City of San Francisco del Quito, and of the Characteristic
Features within Its District.

1092. [Traveling S. from Popayan]} the city of San Francisco
del Quito is 80 leagues S. of Popayan, at 0°20’ S., for the line
[or Torrid Zone] passes through Mira, 5 leagues from the city,
where King Atahualpa was born, son of Huayna Capac; it will be
60 leagues from the Pacific. It was founded by Commander Don
Sebastian de Belalcazar in the year 1534 in the midst of the Cordillera
in prairie country on the slopes of the Sierra de Pichincha. There
the Emperor of those realms, Topa Inga, had built some famous
castles and a city modeled after his court city [of Cuzco] which was
later embellished and ennobled with sumptuous edifices by his son
Huayna Capac for his son Atahualpa, to whom he left that kingdom
[having ordered and commanded when he died that his son Huascar
Inca, the first-born and legitimate heir of this kingdom, should hand
the Kingdom of Quito over to his brother Atahualpa] and later the
two brothers went to war with each other, just when Francisco
Pizarro came in with his Spaniards; he captured [this] Atahualpa
or Atabaliba at Cajamarca in December of the year 1531, and later,
for the reasons given by the historians, in March 1532 cut off his head.

1098. The city has a cold [temperate] climate with clear and serene
sky, and it rains just as in Spain from October till March. It is
densely populated; it will have more than 3,000 Spanish residents
with the mestizos, who are sons of Spaniards and Indian women,
not counting the [many] transients, for it is a region with a lively

362 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

trade, and on the King’s Highway and a necessary transit point for
all those coming from the Spanish Main and the New Kingdom of
Granada to Peru. There is a large service contingent in the city,
Indians, Negroes, and mulattoes, and within a district of 5 leagues
[from the city] it has over 40 Indian villages [very large and thickly
settled and very] well supplied with corn, wheat, peanuts, small
beans, and other cereals, with many sorts of native and Spanish fruit
which bear abundantly.

1094. There is a Circuit Court in the city, with President and
Justices, for legal matters, for administrative matters belong to the
Viceroy of Peru; it is at this city [and its jurisdiction] that the
Kingdom of Peru begins. There is a Bishop here with a very fine
Cathedral and its Prebendaries who reside there and conduct the
services, with many clerics. It has seven parish churches, San Se-
bastian, San Marcos, Santa Barbara, San Blas, and San Roque and
Santa Prisca [and others whose names I do not recall]. All possess
the Holy Sacraments and administer them to their Spanish and Indian
parishioners. It has two fine Dominican convents, one in the city,
and the other, of very strict observance and known as the Recollect
convent, as one leaves the city for Lima; two Franciscan convents,
the principal one in the center of the city and the other, of Recollects,
on a suburban height above the city, known as San Antonio, and
able to rival in excellence and architectural finish any other anywhere ;
two Augustinian convents, one (a very fine one) belonging to the
parent order and chief chapter for the province, and the other of
Recollects, only recently established; and [there is a fine] Merce-
darian convent. All these convents maintain schools. There is a
[very fine] Jesuit convent with a [very good] college which is [like]
a seminary, with students wearing sashes and studying Arts and other
sciences. There is one [excellent] nunnery, La Concepcion, with
200 nuns, and another of Santa Clara and Santa Catalina de Sena,
[very fine], and another named Santa Marta, which is a house of
correction. There are [many] other churches and shrines, and
[excellent] hospitals where they care for the sick. This city has a
Corregidor who is appointed by [the Royal Council] His Majesty
for its administration, [Royal Officials], a Council of Aldermen,
and other functionaries, emphasizing the importance of this city.
Near it to the N. is the field or valley of Afaquito, where Gonzalo
Pizarro gave battle to Viceroy Nufiez Vela and defeated him Monday
afternoon January 18, 1546, in which battle the Viceroy and many
others in His Majesty’s service, lost their lives.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 363

1095. The city is abundantly supplied with excellent provisions
[and] so cheap that 8 one-pound loaves sell here for I real; 20 eggs,
1 real; 1 fowl, 1 real; a mutton, 4 reals; a ham, 3; and so on for
everything else [in food]. [It is well supplied and the market place
is full of everything. There are many varieties of Spanish fruit,
like pears.] It has many kinds of delicious fruit, like apples, peaches,
figs, small peaches, and others [of the sort], [all] in such abundance
and so cheap that for 1 real they give you a large basket of apples
or peaches, weighing considerably over half an arroba; native fruit,
[which are likewise in profusion and cheap, like] bananas, paltas or
aguacates, pineapples, [native] cucumbers quite different from ours
and better, and granadillas from Los Quixos; many excellent and
cheap vegetables ; and the whole year round they have roses, pinks,
carnations, and other Spanish flowers [as in general in most parts
of the Indies. ]

1096. In this whole district they raise much corn and wheat; it
sells very cheap; small beans, chickpeas, peanuts, and other cereals.
They have large cattle, sheep, and hog ranches. Here they begin to
have the Peruvian sheep (llamas) not found anywhere else in the
world; they are like small camels the size of deer; their wool is
like that of Spanish merino sheep, their neck long, and they have no
horns; they are of many colors, like ours. In the fields, as everywhere
in the Indies, there are many deer, and large mare and mule ranches,
[and many] goats, from which they make much leather in this city
[which is a very important business; it is] exported to the city of
Los Reyes (Lima) and other points. The price in Quito and its
district of a pair of cordovan shoes with three excellent sole thick-
nesses, is 3 or 4 reals.

CHAPTER VII

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Quito.

1097. In the district of this city there are many silver and gold
mines in operation. They have mines of quicksilver and other metals ;
many sugar plantations, and in the whole district [many] shops where
they work up large amounts of woolen cloth and grogram. Some
belong to the communities of the Indian villages and they pay their
tribute to their encomenderos with the product. In this district there
are some volcanoes which are continually emitting smoke and flame;
that of Pichincha is near the city; that of Tunguragua, [very] high
and steep, sends forth flame, and although under the Equator, is
always covered with snow; this is the case with many other sierras

364 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

which usually have snow, and particularly with Chimborazo, which
is [always] white with snow and very conspicuous on account of its
height [and whiteness].

1098. The jurisdiction of the Circuit Court of Quito is bounded
on the N. by that of Panama, at the port of Buena Ventura which
is on the seacoast opposite the city of Cali; that is uninhabitable
country, hilly, wooded, and full of streams; it rains practically all
the time there. There are some heathen tribes in those regions,
living like savages, though they have settlements; some live in the
trees, building their houses there so that when the rivers are in flood
they shall not be drowned.

1099. On the NE. it touches the territory of the New Kingdom
of Granada at the Corregimiento of Rondanillo in the State of
Popayan, and at Timana; on the S. it borders on the Circuit Court
of Lima at the Rio de Calva in the Province of Los Calvas and
Paltas, near the village of Ayabaca, which belongs to the Court of
Lima, to the Diocese of Trujillo and the Corregimiento of Palta.

1100. From the port of Buena Ventura, which is on the Gulf of
Panama, along the coast to the port of Paita, first on the plains of
Peru and 12 leagues from Piura, from which the whole Kingdom
of Peru takes its name, it is some 300 leagues; and from Paita to
Popayan, where the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court terminates
near Timana and Rondanillo, it is over 300 leagues, almost straight
N. and S.; in breadth E. and W. it is very narrow, in parts only
20 leagues, and at the widest, 60. On the E. there are large provinces
and regions to be converted to the Faith; they are heathen, well
settled and rich. The Circuit Court contains two Dioceses, Quito
and Popayan, as well as three States and four Corregimientos, appoint-
ments to which are made by His Majesty, and nine Corregimientos
whose incumbents are appointed by the Viceroy and the Governor
of Popayan [and outside of the State of Popayan a Corregidor
appointed by this Governor just mentioned, in Rondanillo; in the
district of the Diocese of Quito, two States and four Corregimientos
to which appointments are made by the Council: the States of Los
Quixos and of Zaguarzongo, and the Corregimientos of Quito,
Cuenca, Loja, and Guayaquil; and five other Corregimientos whose
incumbents are appointed by the Viceroy, which are Otavalo and
Latacunga ; the Governor of Popayan appoints to four Corregimientos,
which are in Popayan, 400 pesos; Pasto, 500; Almaguer, 300;
Rondanillo, 100]: Riobamba, Chimbo, and Los Yumbos, in the hot
country some 6 leagues W. of Quito, which are administered and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 365

governed by the Corregidor of Quito [as shall be described and
related with brevity and the greatest clearness of which I am capable.]

1101. In the city of Quito there are Royal Officials and a Royal
Treasury. This Diocese is suffragan to the Archdiocese of Lima.
The city has bright and health-giving skies, favorable to human life.
The days and nights are of equal length and equable temperature,
for they have no winter to distress them with its cold, nor summer
to try one with its heat, nor those extreme changes experienced in
other quarters and particularly with us in Europe.

1102. The Diocese measures in length from N. to S. along the
Peru King’s Highway from the city of Pasto which is the last in
the diocese to the N. and 45 leagues from Quito, down to the
Provinces of Los Calvas and Paltas, the last in the Diocese to the S.,
and to the Corregimiento of Loja, border town with the Diocese
of Trujillo and with the Circuit Court of Lima, more than 150
leagues ; and in the same direction more to the E., [over] 170 leagues
to Nieva, Santiago de Las Montanas, and Valladolid; and from Quito
to Puerto Viejo on the W. (which is 7 leagues from the port of
Manta) on the Pacific, it is over 120 leagues. In the district of the
Diocese there are over 20 cities and towns with Spanish residents,
and many with large provinces of Indians [with large wealthy vil-
lages]. All these provinces have increased in population since their
discovery and conquest [in contradistinction to all other provinces
in the Indies].

1103. The city of San Juan de Pasto is 44 leagues N. of Quito.
It will have 400 Spanish residents, not counting the service contingent
of Indians, Negroes, and mulattoes. In civil matters there is a
Corregidor appointed by the Governor of Popayan. It has a very
fine parish church and Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and
Mercedarian convents, and an excellent nunnery and other churches
and shrines, and many villages in its district.

1104. Twenty leagues from Quito in the Province of Carangue
lies the town of San Miguel de Ibarra. The country is [very] fertile
and prolific, with crops of corn, wheat, potatoes, and other cereals,
and with cattle. Near this province and town is that of Otavald,
[very] rich and lavish, with a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy.
All this country is among the best and most thickly settled in the
Indies.

1105. Near the city of Quito to the W. is the Province of Los
Yumbos, in the hot country and thickly wooded; there are sugar
plantations [producing much sugar] and in the woods honeycombs
and wax. This tribe comes under the administration of the Corregidor

366 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

of Quito. They plant and gather cotton and make very nice cloth
out of it for their clothing.

CHAPTER VIII

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Quito and the
Provinces of Los Quixos.

1106. Twenty leagues E. of Quito in the Province of Los Quixos
lies the city of Baeza, residence of the Governor of these provinces,
who is appointed by the Council. The country is hot [and] heavily
wooded and forested; wheat will not grow there. They raise corn
and much cotton, from which they make [much] cloth and [in par-
ticular] beautifully worked bed-canopies (pabellones), famous in
all the Kingdom of Peru for the quantities turned out in this State,
and they export them for sale all over the kingdom. The country
is very rough and there are only a few Indians. They raise [much]
very fine fruit and especially the granadillas known as Los Quixos
granadillas (passionflowers). These are one of the [greatest deli-
cacies] best fruits of the Indies; the vine on which they grow is
like ivy, twining around a tree; it puts forth [many] flowers which
are mysterious, for in each flower there is a very vivid representation
of the five wounds of Christ Our Savior. This produces a fruit of
the shape of an egg but considerably larger, like a lemon, and when
it is ripe its skin has an orange color ; one pulls off a bit of it and sucks
out the contents, which are watery with a few very smooth sweet
seeds ; they are not harmful even if eaten in quantity, and they give
out much fragrance when eaten. Although this fruit, which is one
of the most delicious in the Indies, is found in many regions, those
of this Province and State are the best of all.

1107. In this Province and State they have [very good] cinnamon
laurel ; this is a very handsome tree like a laurel but taller and showier.
The cinnamon comes in the buds; all that region where it grows is
very sweet and fragrant with its perfume. Beyond Baeza some 20
leagues to the SE. is the city of Archidona, with the same climate
and only a few residents. The city of Avila is 24 leagues N. of
Archidona; [the city] of San Pedro de Alcala lies in the Province
of the Cofanes, hot, wooded country, 30 leagues from Baeza [and]
in the same State, which is crossed by large rivers; it runs N. and S.
more than 100 leagues, to the city of Sevilla del Oro in the Province
of Macas; when I discuss Riobamba I shall touch on it; it is very
mountainous country. Connected with it to the E. are broad provinces
of heathen. In all this country the bees make much wild honey in

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 367

the woods. [There are many other noteworthy things one could
write about but I omit them, to pass on to the Corregimiento of
Latacunga. |

1108. The town of Latacunga is 12 leagues from Quito on the
King’s Highway through Peru. It has a cool climate, and is abun-
dantly supplied with cheap and excellent provisions. It is a [very]
great place for Indians, and many Spaniards have settled down here
also. It has a parish church, a very fine Franciscan convent (the
first), a Dominican and an Augustinian. It is the residence of a
Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy of Peru, who has jurisdiction
over this place and the Province of Mulalé, Pansaleo, Aloasi, and
the Province of Los Sigchos [nearby] to the W. This is all cold
country, with great abundance of excellent products; they have very
large cattle ranches in the district, and especially of merino sheep,
for which reason there are many woolen mills in this country; the
most important is the one owned by the Indian community of this
town, which turns out one whole piece of cloth every day ; the Indians
pay their tribute in it.

[CHAPTER IX]

[Continuing the Description of the Preceding Subject. ]

1109. This town has another remarkable feature, unequaled so far
as I know anywhere else in the world; all its houses are built of
the abundant pumice stone cast out by its neighbor the Tunguragua
volcano; although this is in the Torrid Zone [and is] constantly
emitting flame, it is always covered with snow; at its foot it has
excellent hot-water baths, where many invalids come and bathe and
recover their health. Almost all the jurisdiction of Latacunga and
Sigchos is under the religious instruction of the Franciscans. [It is
all cold country. |

1110. Five leagues from Latacunga is the village of Ambato,
which is nine leagues from Riobamba, for which the Corregidor
appointed by the Viceroy of Peru, delegates a representative. This
place has a springlike climate, and is abundantly supplied with cheap
and excellent provisions, with many sorts of local and Spanish fruit,
figs, peaches, apples, etc., in quantity ; there is much frutilla de Chile,
i.e., strawberries, [native here,] much larger and better [there] than
our tree strawberries. [They are very sweet to eat.] Near this
village are those of Pelileo and Patate, where there is a rope bridge
to cross the river, which is rather swift and swollen. There are sugar
plantations here, and many other villages, such as San Andrés and

368 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Chambo and many others in the Province of Los Puruaes, which is
very cool and inhabited by Indians, with very large cattle and espe-
cially sheep ranches, for there must be over 600,000 sheep in these
districts. Five leagues from Ambato, all of it level country, is the
tavern (tambo) of Mucha, where the Incas had apartments in very
imposing buildings; and at four leagues is the town of Villar de
Don Pardo, or Riobamba. This is built in a cool and fertile valley
25 leagues S. of Quito on the King’s Highway to Lima. It was
here that they originally started to establish Quito, in the Province
of Los Puruaes, where the Inca rulers had extensive apartments.
This is the place where Capt. Belalcazar had a very hot fight with
the Indians and defeated them; and it was here that Almagro and
Pedro de Alvarado made their agreement about the fleet he had
brought. In this valley is a town with over 400 Spanish residents ;
it has a lively trade [and is very rich]. There are an excellent parish
church, Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Mercedarian con-
vents, a nunnery named La Concepcion, and other hospitals and
churches. There are numerous woolen mills here and in most of
the places in its neighborhood, particularly at Chambo, where they
turn out much cloth and grogram. The town has a level site; the
country is well supplied with wheat, corn, potatoes (which are a
kind of ground truffles), Spanish fruit like peaches, quinces, apples,
figs, and other kinds of native fruit. All the Indians in this country
are very docile and clever. In the nunnery in this town there is a
small image brought here from Macas, through which God has
wrought many miracles; it is a very holy relic and is held in much
veneration in that country. It is on a paper print.

CHAPTER X

Of the City of Sevilla del Oro in the Province of Macas.

1111. Thirty leagues from this town to the SE. is the city of
Sevilla del Oro in the Province of Macas; it is mountainous country,
and after crossing the Cordillera to get to this city, there is a paramo
called Sufia (which means cold sierra) on which there are two very
large lakes. Of the rivers issuing from them, one runs W. and
passes near Riobamba ; they call it the Rio de Chambo; after cutting
through the Cordillera, its current turns E. and it becomes a large
river ; the Indians of the first provinces call it Corifio, those of the
second, Parosa. At 180 leagues from its source it unites with the
great Rio de Orellana; there are extensive provinces on both sides
of it, but thinly settled.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 369

1112. The other river follows a straight course to the E., running
near the city of Sevilla del Oro, and is named Opano. From this
city its current turns S., and it traverses the Province of the Jibaros.
The country is the richest in gold in all the Indies. The natives are
cannibals and very warlike, and devastated the city of Logrofio de
Los Caballeros, massacring the Spaniards and burning the churches.
This was all caused by maladministration, negligence, and injuries
inflicted by higher officials on certain residents of this city.

1113. This province lies between the Rio de Cuenca and the Rio
de Sevilla; it is 25 leagues long and as many across. On the eastern
slopes of the Cordillera General in the territory of this province, a
low spur strikes eastward, finally petering out at the point of union
of the Rio de Orellana and this Rio de Pano, which flows into the
Puncu, which in our language means door, and that of Santiago.
This river winds around the Cordillera on its southern front, and
the Rio de Corifio, on its northern; this Cordillera will be 50 leagues
in extent from this river to the Rio de Santiago, on whose banks
lie the Province of the Maynas and other tribes; and 150 leagues
downstream from this Puncu, other rivers flow into it [coming down
from Cuzco,] and more than 120 leagues before that, the Rio de Los
Chachapoyas empties into it, which farther inland is called the Rio
de Los Motilones. Near this point is where all those rich and popu-
lous tribes are located where there is a settlement 3 leagues long and
many Indian silversmiths and other artisans, all of them civilized,
intelligent, and reasonable. These rivers all unite to form the great
Rio Maranon, about which I shall write what is known, in its proper
place [when I discuss Chachapoyas and Moyobamba; now I shall
return to the account of the jurisdiction of Quito and in particular,
of the Corregimiento of Chimbo, which is 7 leagues from Riobamba. |

1114, From Riobamba it is 7 leagues W. to the village of Chimbo,
capital of that province. There are over 100 Spanish residents living
here, with a parish church and a Franciscan convent. It is on the
King’s Highway to the Desembarcadero (landing place) del Rio, the
route to Guayaquil. There is a Corregidor in this village, appointed
by the Viceroy. The majority of the Spaniards living here are
muleteers engaged in transporting the wine that comes up from
Guayaquil, and other Spanish merchandise, to Quito and all the rest
of the country; they have very large troops of mules. The first 2
days’ journey from the Desembarcadero are over the worst road
anywhere in the world; it is very steep and it rains all the time,
the mules keep getting stuck in the mud and on the ridges which hit

25

370 _ SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

them in the belly, so that it seems impossible for them to move; in
fact, many of them die on this road.

CHAPTER XI

Continuing the District of the Diocese of Quito.

(Marg.: Note: This chapter should come at the point indicated
below. )

1115. The Indian village of Chimbo has a cool climate and is well
settled ; in all the villages of its province [in which] they raise much
wheat, corn, and other cereals; [and] they have large cattle and
sheep ranches, and from the wool they manufacture here cloth and
grogram; there are hog ranches also. They raise potatoes also on
a large scale ; these are a great recourse and support for both Indians
and Spaniards. There is also the quinua, which is a plant like our
Spanish goosefoot; its seeds are tiny, like mustard seed, but white
in color. They make excellent stews with it, as well as cakes and
cereal dishes which are delicious and sustaining.

1116. The Indians in this country wear their hair done up in a
crown (cerquillo) like the Italians. They [mostly] wear their woolen
shirts with [almost as large] an opening at the back and in front
[as in the] Turkish style, [but] without sleeves; they have many
sorts of them. As a rule they crouch (en cloquillas), spinning wool
with their distaffs, which surprised me considerably when I saw
them. This whole province is cold, like that of the Puruaes of
Riobamba ; but almost between these two provinces to the S. is the
Province of Pallatanga with a hot climate; they have [very good]
sugar plantations there and make excellent preserves. Near Chimbo
to the E. is the volcano of Chimborazo, which is always covered
with snow. This description must suffice for the Diocese of Quito
and its jurisdiction, which is very extensive.

(Marg.: The chapter whose wrong entry was noted above, should
start here.)

1117, From Chimbo one goes [15 leagues] to the Desembarcadero,
[which is 30 leagues from Guayaquil] where there are [several]
buildings and storehouses maintained [there] and kept by the residents
of Guayaquil for the storage of their wine and other commodities till
the mule troops arrive from Chimbo and all over that country, to
carry them up to Quito and their other destinations. The region
around the Desembarcadero is hot country, thickly wooded and for-
ested. It is 15 leagues to Chincho (! Chimbo), 2 days’ journey in hot
country and over an execrable [and] deserted trail; from Chimbo

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA afl

to Riobamba, 7 leagues, [and] from Riobamba to Quito, 25, which
makes 47 leagues altogether ; and with the 30 leagues down the river,
it comes to 77 leagues from Guayaquil to Quito. This merchandise
is shipped in medium-sized boats with decks, called botiquines (travel-
ing medicine chests). The river is very large and its waters agreeable
and very healthful, for besides being very soft, they run over much
gold ore and pass where the finest sarsaparilla in the world grows;
and so down in that country [and city] one can stay up and cure
himself very easily of the tumors (syphilis) by merely drinking the
water. The river flows through level country, very gently; along
its banks there are many handsome trees with thick foliage, and on
them, a thousand sorts of handsome and attractive birds with a
thousand variations in color; many of them are songsters, such as
conotes, nightingales (ruisefores) and sinsontes (mockingbirds),
which raise a very sweet and melodious harmony, so that both to
the ear and the eye it appears a bit of earthly Paradise. The enjoy-
ment of the view is enhanced by the entry of other leisurely rivers
into its stream. Along the banks are many plantations or chacras
owned by Guayaquil residents, with cacao trees loaded down with
the pods of cacao beans, and other excellent fruit, like oranges in
abundance, and limes. These cacao trees are not cultivated with the
same devoted pains as in New Spain and Honduras; [but] the
planting of them has enriched many people and swollen their tithes
and revenues. There are likewise many cattle and hog ranches along
the banks of this mighty river. But agreeable as it may be to the
sight, seeming a delightful Paradise, to the feeling it is painful in
equal degree. Besides the great heat of an excessive intensity, for
it is only about 1° from the Equator, and the fact that the low-lying
country, covered with groves and woods, keeps any wind from
circulating, there is an infinity of mosquitoes of numerous varieties,
which normally keep travelers in torture; during the day there are
jejenes (gnats) and rodadores (midges) which are very painful and
stick fast to one’s skin, and leave bites that inflame; there are others
much tinier which can hardly be made out, but their bites fester ;
there are others a sort of blue in color which force travelers by boat
during the daytime to stay under canvas unable to enjoy the lovely
scenery of the banks and forests along the great river, whose crystal-
clear and smoothly running waters make a pleasant and harmonious
sound. Then when these pests are sleeping at night, others rise and
set sail; these are the zancudos (night mosquitoes) which make an
annoying and distressing noise and keep trying to find some part of
the canopy through which they can bite the person inside. To these

372 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

troubles is added the care with which one must proceed on the river,
covered as it is with fierce alligators, many of which are man eaters,
having already devoured human beings, horses, and cattle. There
are such numbers of them in this great river that on its banks I have
seen great troops of them stretched out in the sun, in places more
than 500 together. From a distance they look like very large beams
or timbers, being of a dark gray color, much like rotten wood.
They breed in great numbers in all these rivers; this is the one that
has the most, except for the Rio Grande de La Magdalena. The
females come out of the water onto the banks [and] dig in the sand,
making a hollow in it, in which they lay 30 or 40 eggs, larger than
those of geese or ducks, [and] the same color; they cover them over
[at once] with sand and [as it is hot country, and natural,] in 15
days they hatch out. [The females leave, and it is Divine Providence
that as they are lazy in digging out the sand with their paws, they
kill many ; the little alligators.] They are now about 6 inches long
(un jeme), and run down to the water, many dragging their eggshells
along; and as they enter the water, the big alligators being in the
habit of eating and swallowing fish, eat and swallow them too; but
even so the rivers are covered with them, looking like timbers floating
on the water; these are merely those which escape the jaws of their
parents or other alligators [when they emerge from the egg], for
they are so bestial that they do not even have the instinct to see and
appreciate that these are their own offspring [and they eat them up.]
If Heaven had not so ordained it, it would be impossible to live
in those regions, or they would eat each other up. This Rio de
Guayaquil is joined near the city by the Rio de Daule and the Rio
de Vola, both very large and of the same nature with it; thus near
the city it becomes a mighty river, very pleasant to look at. On its
banks there are a few Indian villages, like Pimocha and Daule, from
which the other mighty river takes its name, passing under it; it is
built above the attractive river bank on a high plateau covered with
fruit trees—bananas ; aguacates ; a sort of plum different from those
in New Spain in taste and color, [being less juicy and mealier, and]
with two stones; oranges and other kinds of fruit. In these huge
rivers there are great quantities of fish. [This brief account must
suffice. ]

CHAPTER XII

Of the City of Santiago de Guayaquil and Its District.
1118. The city of Santiago de Guayaquil is 77 leagues from San
Francisco del Quito. It was founded by Commander Sebastian de

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA S78

Belalcazar on the banks of its fine great river, 2° from the Equator
and [some] 12 leagues from the sea and the island of Puna, although
up to near the city the river looks like a sea, having widened out
through its junction with others [like the Daule and Vola]. This
settlement was abandoned because of an Indian rebellion in which
many Spaniards were massacred; it was reestablished by Capt.
Francisco de Orellana in the year 1537. The city is built at the
water’s edge on a level piece of land, ascending to a rather high
hill; on top of the hill is the parish church; the town continues
downhill on the slope running approximately E., up to the water’s
edge on the other side; the shipyards are over here; they turn out
ships which are among the best in the world, the timber being very
good and tough; [here they build very fine ships, and those of His
Majesty’s fleet for the protection of that sea and kingdom]. There
is a Corregidor in this city, named by the Council, with the title of
Militia Captain. This is the chief port of the entire Kingdom of
Quito. It has a lively trade, both with the country inland, from which
they bring down much flour, ham, cheese, and other commodities,
not only for the city but also to ship to Lima and the whole land of
Peru, such as cloth, grogram, cordovan leather, etc. They export
also from this city much planking and lumber for the buildings of
Lima and other localities in the plains of that country, where they
have no suitable timber; they export also much cordage, which is
worked up and manufactured in this city and the villages in its
jurisdiction ; this is made of henequen fiber. They export also [great]
quantities of cacao raised on the plantations [or chacras] owned by
residents of the city, along the banks of the rivers; it goes to Peru,
New Spain, and the Spanish Main. Many ships come to this port
with cargoes from Lima and the valleys of Ica and Pisco, with large
amounts of jugs of wine for consumption in the Kingdom of Quito
[for there are no vineyards there] ; thus this port communicates with
the whole Kingdom of Peru, with the Spanish Main, and New Spain;
and it is from here that the gold ship of the Kingdom of Quito,
sets sail.

1119. In this port and city there are [the] Officials of the Royal
Patrimony and a Royal Treasury; it has Dominican, Franciscan,
and Augustinian convents and a [very good] hospital with other
churches and shrines. The city will have as many as 400 Spanish
residents. Its climate is hot and damp; [but] the country is healthy,
on account of its salubrious breezes and water ; it is heavily wooded
and forested, and there is [great] abundance of [much very] delicious
native fruit. Twelve leagues away is the island of Puna, which is

374 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

so famous and celebrated in that Kingdom because its Indians, who
lived in great comfort, defended themselves from the Inca kings.
They gather great quantities of sarsaparilla there, among the best
and most highly prized to be found in the Indies. The island raises
much cotton and other valuable products; its chiefs and lords were
very powerful and lavish.

1120. On the mainland across the river from Guayaquil [and]
near the sea lies the village of Tumbes, which was the starting point
of the greatness and wealth which the Spaniards discovered; here
the Inca kings had [some] royal castles and a temple to the Sun,
with great wealth of silver and gold to be consecrated to the Sun,
together with a house of maidens of the nobility dedicated to him,
through the blindness due to the Devil. The magnificence that
existed here is described at length by the Inca Garcilaso and other
historians. Today it is a little Indian village, where religious instruc-
tion is dispensed by Mercedarian friars. It has a hot climate, but
although it rains a great deal in Guayaquil, it does not rain here;
this is where the plains begin, and it does not rain for a distance of
600 leagues, as far as Coquimbo in the Kingdom of Chile [as I shall
note more particularly in its proper place]. [Much] Excellent cassia
is grown here, which is exported all over the Kingdom, and there
are other valuable products; but of what it was in the days of the
Inca kings in its heathendom, there are only indications and ruins
to convince one.

[CHap. 13. Of the City of Puerto Viejo.]

1121. From Guayaquil it is more than 30 leagues over level country
or wooded ground covered with groves [and many sorts of trees],
to the city of Puerto Viejo, ENE. of Guayaquil; it was founded
by Capt. Francisco Pacheco at the direction of Commander Don
Diego de Almagro in the year 1535 on the 12th of March. It lies
almost under the Line, since it passes through Pasado, which is in
its district and the first port in Peru. From Puerto Viejo E. to
Quito over the traveled road it is 120 leagues, whereas by air it is
not 50, but one cannot go directly on account of the numerous rivers
and mountains [and the great swamps there are]. As one comes
from the Spanish Main, it is the first city in Peru. It has a hot
climate ; it will have 60 Spanish residents, a parish church and [a]
Mercedarian convent. They raise much corn [and beans and many
root crops] and other products of the soil. Seven leagues away is
the port of Manta, which is the usual port of repair for the ships

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 375

coming from the Spanish Main, and they take on [here] some
supplies of poultry, bread, fruit, etc. It has in its district many
other villages, like Picoasa and Jipijapa, where they raise much
henequen and make quantities of cordage for the ships on that sea,
Charapot6, and many other villages. The Corregidor of Guayaquil
appoints a representative for the government of this city. Along
its coast there are many pearl beds, [very fine], though they get
[and take out] very few, for lack of labor and because the sea is
icy cold there, even though it is on the Line. It has connected with
it the Provinces of Las Barbacoas and Las Esmeraldas, of heathen
Indians, [very] rich, mountainous, and heavily wooded. Next them
comes the Province of Los Mulatos, heathen descendants of a ship-
load of Negroes wrecked at that point, and the origin of this tribe.
They are good-looking and all wear gold nose plugs in their nostrils,
gold plaques on their breasts, and gold ear hoops; I myself saw them
with them; and as for emeralds, it is certain that there are very
rich mines of them in this province, and that they are [much] finer
than those from Muzo. These provinces are not pacified because
those who could do it, would not risk their wealth in the effort, and
poor men who want to do it, are unable to. The Circuit Court of
Quito should be advised to have them pacified by offering honors
and rewards to whoever should do it; this subvention would be a very
important matter. [This is what may be briefly stated about this
Puerto Viejo district, set down very accurately. |

1122. At Punta de Santa Elena in this district, there is a flowing
well of pitch, which might very well be of much importance. In this
region [there is a tradition that] giants used to inhabit [this country],
of huge stature; by just judgments of God they were exterminated,
as is noted in the histories written about the Indies. Where they
came from, is doubtful; in New Spain at Puebla de Los Angeles
they came upon bones of huge size when they dug the foundations
of the parish church ; these indicated that the men had been enormous ;
they have found them also in other places. Near the Straits of
Magellan, inland from the coast of Los Césares, live huge men who
are called Patagones; they are like savages and wear deerskins for
clothing. It might be that they are the descendants of those who
were here and lived at Punta de Santa Elena.

1123. In closing with the district of the Corregidor of Guayaquil,
I shall set last what may serve as dessert, an event which is remarkable
and worthy of note. In the village of Daule, which lies on the banks
of its river, teeming with alligators, as is usual in the hot country,
there is an Indian woman who is the chieftainess and mistress of

376 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the village, named Dofia Maria, a woman of much intelligence and
good manners. One day she went [swimming] bathing in the river,
and since there are so many alligators and many of them man eaters
and greedy, one came up close to her without her seeing it, for she
was not paying attention. The Indian women who saw it approaching,
shouted to her to get away from the ferocious animal which was
making for her; they gave her such a shock that she rushed in flight
to shore; but once she saw herself out of the water, she felt so
ashamed that she went back to the stream with a stick hardly over
a foot long, disconcerted at having fled in the presence of her people.
So she went out to face the frightful monster; when it saw her
coming, it went straight at her, lifting its head above water, and
opening its jaws; whereupon she reached out and stuck her arm in,
with the stick, setting it crosswise so that the animal could not close
its mouth [and as these fierce creatures have no tongue, the strain
caused by the stick made the water run down into its belly] so it
drowned and turned belly up. The Indian woman, much exhilarated
by the victory she had won over the fierce aquatic monster, and the
courage shown in the deed, came out of the water and ordered her
subjects to pull out the creature which had caused her such a shock—
an episode worthy of being set in a historical record as an example
and memento, though very risky.

1124. In this country they have very ugly wild bulls, raised in
those forests and thickets without seeing people; but fierce as they
are, the Indian, Negro, and mulatto cowboys are too clever for them.
With the greatest of ease they catch the wildest bull there is—how,
I don’t know—and knock him over on the ground, and with a knife or
other instrument they pierce the membrane which connects the nostrils
and pass a strap or small rope through them, and in this way they
lead off the wildest bull after them [and handle him] as if he were
a sheep.

CHAPTER XIII

Continuing the Preceding Subject.

1125. There are in this jurisdiction [since it is forested] many
valuable kinds of timber and wild bamboos thick as beams; in each
joint there is an arroba of water. There are huge snakes, [and many
very large and] ferocious tigers, fierce saurians [and very treacherous ;
tigers have been seen to come down to a river or lake to drink, and
be seized by the muzzle by alligators, with a bloody battle ensuing,
ending in the death of both combatants]. Since this is hot country

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 277.

and thickly wooded, at noon when the bulls try to escape from the
heat and the flies they make for their haunts in the shade of certain
trees where they usually gather to pass their siesta; and these savage
tigers climb the tree under whose shade the bulls settle down, and
when they are quietest and drowsiest, they spring down on top of
the bull and slash his back with their claws; and when he bellows
and writhes about in pain, trying to dislodge his burden, the moment
he exposes his flank the tiger rips open his belly and kills him; with
this treacherous maneuver they kill them quite frequently. There
are likewise many lions, small and dark gray; they are not so fero-
cious and run away from people and from dogs barking at them.
There are many other kinds of animals in these huge forests; they
have rabbits like those in Spain, and [many] varieties of birds,
notably the carrion buzzard or zopilote, which is found in [all the
Windward Islands and] all the Indies. It is a very ugly black bird
the size of a [large domestic] cock, with a bare head. These birds
are the salvation [and sanitation] of the Indies, for they clean up
whatever dead creature [and what refuse] lies on the ground and
devour it. When they have no food in sight they sail very high up
into the realm of the air, it must be for the purpose of descrying -
and discovering dead horses or cows or dogs or other animals; and
these birds, which are also called auras (vultures), have either keen
sight or smell, for no sooner does an animal die than there they are
to devour it. They do no harm of any kind, for that is all they live on,
and in some parts of the Indies since they are so useful in clearing
up garbage [and aid sanitation], there is a fine if one kills them.
It is not [even] known where they breed. There is another mys-
terious circumstance about them, and when I saw it, I was astonished,
for even though I had been told of it, I would not believe it. This
is that these birds have a king and chief among them, a bird of their
own size but [while they are black, he is] white; they obey and
respect him; and if there is [a] dead animal to be devoured, although
these birds are so greedy, they will not start eating till the white
buzzard their king has arrived. He begins first and eats the animal’s
eyes, [and] the others do not make a move till he gives the signal,
and when he rises from the feast they all keep him company. I
should never have dared to write this, even though they told me
about it, had I not seen it with my own eyes.

1126. There is another species of the general appearance of this
bird but much larger than our vulture; its head is bare of feathers
[and fleshy], almost like a turkey’s, [and such is the buzzard’s also],
and it is very ugly. It is called condor, and many of them have

378 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOLE. 102

wattles above and below like cocks. There are black, grayish black,
and white varieties. They are very large and savage. The eggs they
lay are about as large as ostrich eggs. Their wingspread is about
4 varas; the large wing feathers are thick as one’s finger and each
feather over a vara long. They are very savage and bloodthirsty ;
like the buzzards they live and maintain their lives by feeding on
dead animals, and their habit is to mount into the region of the air
for a view, and they stay up there long periods of time balancing
themselves by soaring, it must be for the purpose of descrying from
up there any dead animals to devour [for that is their sole interest].
When they are feeding on some dead animal and there are carrion
buzzards about, these latter look like chickens around the mother
hen; and when they are chuck full it is possible to chase them with
a stick, as was once my experience in the wilderness, for they cannot
fly off till they find a rock or high spot from which to take wing.
And when they can find nothing to eat, they make for the plains
where there are cows which have just dropped their calves and before
the little creatures can suckle their mothers, up come two of these
condors ; one takes his stand in front of the calf and the other behind ;
this latter gives him a very hard peck and as he opens his mouth to
bellow with the pain, the condor in front seizes him by the tongue
so that he cannot bellow and summon his mother, and so they kill
and eat him, and that happens frequently; and so there are many
cows that will not separate themselves from their offspring and live
with the greatest vigilance, for the knowledge they have acquired
and the dread they have, of these savage birds. Let this suffice, and
let us take up the discussion of the Corregimiento of Cuenca.

CHAPTER XIV

Of the City of Cuenca and Its Provinces, and the Rivers of Its
District.

1127. The foundation of the city of Cuenca was ordered by the
Marqués de Cafiete when he was Viceroy of Peru; he commissioned
Gil Ramirez de Avalos to place it between the Province of Paute
and Los Cafiares, near the Province of Los Cafares, 55 leagues from
Quito on the King’s Highway to Lima, in the year 1557. The city
lies in a level valley over 10 leagues long, between two rivers which
run near it, and all those sierras, many of them belonging to Los
Cafiares; they contain very rich mines of silver, gold, quicksilver,
and other metals. The city has more than 500 Spanish residents ;
it has a springlike climate with bright skies and good soil; the country

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA SG)

is very pleasant and attractive, with abundance of cheap and excellent
supplies, just like the city of Quito, there being quantities of cattle
in its neighborhood. They raise much wheat and corn and make
[much] flour which they export to the city of Guayaquil by the port
of Vola, and excellent cheese and ham made in the district and
exported to the mines of San Antonio de Zaruma, which are 22
leagues from the Corregimiento of Loja. There is a Corregidor in
this city appointed by [the Council] His Majesty; he governs it and
all its provinces, which are: Paute, Los Cafiares, Girén, and Alausi,
which is the farthest to the N., bordering on the Corregimiento of
Riobamba. There are very sumptuous buildings in the district like
that at Tomebamba and others, of the time of the Inca kings. The
city has a fine parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian,
and Mercedarian convents, and a nunnery, La Concepcion, all excellent
and devout; there is a hospital for the sick, and other churches and
shrines, and over 50 clerics, sons of residents of the city; in fact,
since it has so many they call it Cuenca de Los Clérigos. This city
and its adjoining provinces suffer dire need since they go long periods
without episcopal visits or confirmations, and they petition that they
be granted a Bishop, since they are in the center of the remotest
part of the Diocese of Quito; that he be given for jurisdiction the
Corregimientos of Guayaquil, Loja, their own, and that Zaguarzongo ;
thus it will more easily be possible to have episcopal visits and con-
firmations and other existing evils will be obviated, and both churches
will have sufficient revenues [and they will be very rich], since living
is cheap and abundant there.

1128. Running E. and W. to the N. of the city is a small stream
of crystal-clear water, on whose banks are many gristmills and fruit
orchards, both of native and Spanish varieties, [like] pears, peaches,
apples, quinces, etc. In the district there are many plantations of
sugarcane, from which they make sugar and syrup enjoyed in the
city, and preserves exported to Guayaquil. The country produces
quantities of wheat, corn, and other cereals, cattle, mares, and mules.
An excellent horse for carriage or saddle sells here for 12 reals, more
or less. They manufacture and produce excellent ramrods in this
city, the best made in the whole kingdom. The city is at 2°30’ S.;
12 leagues to the E. is the Province of the Jibaros, subdued by Gov.
Juan de Salinas at the same time with that of Zaguarzongo; he
established in it the city of Logrofio de Los Caballeros, which
through bad management was carried by storm by these Jibaro
Indians, who massacred all the Spaniards and burnt down the
churches ; and for the more than 30 years succeeding, these savages

380 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

have done much damage in the territory of this Corregimiento of
Cuenca, in villages in its jurisdiction which they have cut off, like
Los Cuyes, and in the year 1621, the village of Condor, and they
have done much other harm in this territory and the same in the
Province of Macas which likewise adjoins them. The Indians of
this tribe are very warlike and have carried out every enterprise they
have undertaken ; so they have become very haughty and exceedingly
insolent through having received no chastisement. They are cannibals
of horribly savage customs.

1129. The province they live in is one of the richest in gold to be
found in all the country hitherto explored, so much so that the Indians
took out all the wealth in gold possessed by the Incas from the slopes
of the Santa Barbara mines. This country was subdued and settled
for 2 years, and in that period the 20 percent accruing to His Majesty,
was collected. Since then for the reasons given there has been no
security on account of these savages, and so it would be of great
importance for the Royal Council to entrust the pacification and
subjugation of these Indians to the Corregidor of Cuenca, both
because he is close at hand and the country is cheap and abundant
as regards supplies, and for the wealth and tranquillity which would
accrue to the country; he should be given some honor for it; he will
subdue them with ease.

[Cuap, 15. Of the City of Loja and Its Provinces. |

(Marg. note: This chapter comes in later at point indicated.)

There are in this district many silver, quicksilver, iron, and sulfur
mines, and other metals; 1 league from the city there is a pilgrimage
shrine, and beside it excellent baths from hot springs; they do much
good to the invalids who go there.

(Marg. note: Chapter on the city of Loja and the mines of
Zaruma. )

1130. The city of Loja is 33 leagues S. of Cuenca and 88 from
Quito, at 3°30’ S., on the King’s Highway from Quito to Lima
and all the Kingdom of Peru. It was founded by Capt. Antonio de
Mercadillo at the instance of Gonzalo Pizarro in the year 1546 in
a grand, fertile valley between two rivers with excellent water and
both carrying gold sand. The climate is like spring; they raise two
crops of wheat a year, and in fact, every time they plant it, thanks to
its equable climate; they grow also corn, potatoes, and many kinds
of fruit, both indigenous and from Spain [but the market in Cuenca
is altogether more abundant and cheaper]. There is a Corregidor

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 381

in this city, appointed by the Royal Council, and Officials of the
Royal Patrimony and a Royal Treasury. [The city] has an excellent
parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustinian convents,
a convent of nuns of La Concepcion, and other churches and shrines.
1131. The city has over 300 Spanish residents, not counting the
service contingent of Indians, Negroes, and mulattoes. Five leagues
S. of the city, the Rio del Catamayu runs through a grand, wide
valley covered with cattle, sheep, and mule ranches. They raise
quantities of wheat in this neighborhood, with corn and other cereals
and vegetables, and abundance of Spanish and native fruit. Beyond
the Catamayu lie the Provinces of Los Paltas and Calvas and the
village of Garruchamba; these are the last to the S. in the district
and Corregimiento of Loja, and its boundary with the Province of
Ayabaca in the district of the Diocese of Trujillo belonging to
the Corregimiento of Piura; and at the Rio de Calva, which is 100
leagues from Quito, the Circuit Court districts of Lima and San
Francisco de Quito, meet ; Lima is 330 leagues from Quito.

[Cuap. 17. Of the Town and Mines of San Antonio de Zaruma.|

1132. The town of San Antonio de Zaruma lies 13 leagues WNW.
of the city of Loja; it is the center for very rich gold mines, all in
veins; they have 36 mills to grind and smelt the metal; they take
out a great amount, in addition to 164- and 17-carat silver. The
whole country is paved with very rich veins of gold ore, from the
hill of Tomagatos for over 4 leagues round about, according to what
I learned from miners in that town in the year 1614 when I was
there ; there is enough to keep them busy forever. Great wealth has
been derived from these mines, particularly by Juan de Montesdoca
and Alonso de Montedoca(!) his son; they have generously given
large contributions to impecunious travelers, and built the church in
that town, and supported the Franciscan convent.

1133. This town is built on an incline high up on a ridge which
is all underlaid with gold; most of it is honeycombed with the tunnels
following the veins. To the S. flows a small stream which carries
much gold, running I or 2 carats higher than that in the mines. Many
Indians go there to wash the gold sand and by washing it in their
trays they take out on the average 40 or 50 pesos’ worth a week,
or more. The town has 200 Spanish residents, 50 of them miners;
it attracts many traders with merchandise and wine, eager for the
profit in buying and taking out the gold; they buy it from the Indians
at g reals the gold peso, in quantities at 10; and they make a large

382 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

profit in taking it out. The pulperos, ie., the tavern keepers, keep
bribing and cheating the Indians in order to get their pouches of
gold dust ; there is a lot of deceit in this, and His Majesty is defrauded
of his royal 20 percent, for there is nobody who will not practice
this form of cheating.

1134. The town and all this region have a hot climate, and there
are no trees; the whole country is rough, full of ridges and ravines.
It is well supplied with provisions and merchandise, for in their
eagerness for gold, they bring in from Cuenca and other points flour,
ham, cheese, etc., for all flock to where this metal occurs, so much
sought after and pursued by all the human race.

1135. The Corregidor of Loja appoints an Alcalde Mayor for
this mining camp, for the administration of justice and the allotment
of the Indians who come for their mita (forced service) in the
mines from the Province of Los Cafiares and other points, giving
each miner the number designated by the warrant he holds or the
number falling to him by the repartimiento (assignment of Indians.)
These mines are at 3°30’ S. The layout of the mills is like those
in the silver mines except that they differ in the grinding ; these have
a box with a stream of water flowing through it, in which they dump
the ore, so that the ore is in water; there they macerate it with steel
hammers; they have a thick, fine screen through which the clay and
mud are carried out; the ore being heavier stays; then they let the
water and mud and some ore run through a brick-laid channel to
a tank where the gold, being heavier, sinks to the bottom and the
muddy water runs off. Then when they have crushed their quota of
quintals assigned to each mill, they run the water off from the tank
and unite and amalgamate the metal with quicksilver, and after the
union and amalgamation they squeeze it under great pressure and
get the quicksilver out and smelt the residue. That is the way they
handle this precious metal in these mines. In the neighborhood there
are a few farms and cattle and hog ranches. It is 60 leagues from
the port of Paita.

CuapTer XVIII

Continuing the Description of the Circuit Court of Quito, and the
City of Zamora and the Provinces of Zaguarzongo.

1136. The city of Zamora is in the Corregimiento of Loja, from
which it is 20 leagues distant, to the E., and on the other side of the
Cordillera; this is the watershed, some streams running W. to the
Pacific, like those which pass near Loja, and others to the Atlantic,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 383

traversing over 1,000 leagues of country inhabited by different tribes.
The city of Zamora was established by Captain Mercadillo in the
year 1549; it has the same elevation and parallel as Loja, but to
the E. The climate of this city is hot and somewhat unhealthy, but
it is very rich in high-grade gold; in fact, they have found nuggets
of virgin gold weighing 12 pounds, and many nuggets of 1 pound,
4 pounds, and over. But though this province and its neighborhood
is so rich in this metal, it is poor and lacks sufficient population to
exploit it.

1137. The city has a few Spanish residents, with a parish church
and a Franciscan convent. The country is wooded and it rains most
of the year. They raise corn and other cereals, root crops and fruit,
and the Zamora figs so famous in all that kingdom. All the rivers
and watercourses in its district carry much gold of high quality.
It has excellent salt deposits, and the salt they make supplies all the
country. There are other remarkable features which it is impossible
to enumerate.

1138. The Province and State of Zaguarzongo, which was subdued
by Gov. Juan de (blank; Salinas?) is 20 leagues from Zamora
across the Cordillera, and 40 ESE. from the city of Loja. It is all
hot country with much high-grade nugget gold, which is found
everywhere, for it is paved with this metal.

1139. The city of Valladolid was established in these provinces and
this State; it has a few Spanish residents, and is 40 leagues from
Loja, at 6° S. This city of Cumbinama is 16 leagues E. of Valladolid,
and 50 leagues farther E. is the city of Santiago de Las Montajfias,
at which point is the boundary with the district of the city of Jaén
de Bracamoros. Thus the city of Santiago de Las Montafias is 194
leagues from Quito, over very rough and difficult trails, most of
the way through uninhabited country; and for this reason the people
in this country, both Spaniards and Indians, have never seen a Bishop
and consequently have never enjoyed the Holy Sacrament of con-
firmation.

1140. It is an unfortunate circumstance that for this reason they
lack spiritual profit and consolation; but it can all be remedied by
establishing another Bishop in the city of Cuenca or Loja; that is
halfway, and from there he can more easily visit and comfort his
parishioners and those provinces will grow, because the Indians
bordering on them will be converted to the knowledge of our Holy
Faith.

1141. In this region of Santiago de Las Montafias there are many
forms of gold, all of it high grade, over 23 carats. There are very

384 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

rich mines of gold ore, or veins; as in Zaruma, the mineral is shot
through with gold. Then there is virgin gold in nuggets, needing
no treatment, and in gold dust, which is what they wash and get out
of the rivers and watercourses, for all those in this province carry
it in abundance. If there were only people to extract it, this would
be one of the wealthiest and most prosperous provinces in the world.
They raise corn and other fruit and root crops, and excellent tobacco.

1142. The district of this State includes 90 leagues to the E.
already pacified, and borders on extensive and wealthy provinces of
heathen to be converted to the Faith; but it is very hard and difficult
country, with steep mountains and huge rivers. All this belongs to
the district of the Circuit Court of Quito, which borders to the S.
on the Circuit Court of Los Reyes, or Lima.

CHAPTER 17 (sic)

Of the Corregimientos and Curacies in the Territory of the Diocese
of Quito.

1143. In the district of the Diocese of Quito there are 10 Corregi-
mientos and 1 State. His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme
Council of the Indies, appoints to those of Quito, Guayaquil, Loja,
and Zaruma, Cuenca, the State of Los Quixos; appointments are
made to the 4 following by the Viceroy of Peru: Riobamba, Chimba,
Latacunga, Otavald, and in addition, Zaguarzongo; the Governor of
Popayan appoints to that of Pasto. There are also 170 curacies, 100
under priests and 70 under friars, as follows.

1144, In the Corregimiento of the City of Quito and within its
5 leagues, 20 curates, clerics of the parish church, Santa Barbara,
Santa Prisca, San Blas, San Marcos, San Sebastian, San Roque, in
the Indian villages of Machangara, Machangarilla, Chillogallo, Cono-
coto, Sangolqui, Cumbaya, Tumbaco, Quembo y Piso, Yaruqui,
Quinche, Huaillobamba, Zambeza; and in Los Yumbos, a friar of
the Mercedarian Order.

1145. In the Corregimiento of Guayaquil and Puerto Viejo, 7
cleric curates, and 3 Mercedarian friars in the district of Puerto
Viejo and Puna.

In the Corregimiento of Loja, 5 cleric curates and 4 Dominican
friars.

In the Corregimiento of Cuenca, 11 cleric curates and 3 Domini-
can and Franciscan friars.

In the State of Los Quixos, 5 cleric curates and 3 Mercedarian
friars.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 385

In the Corregimiento of the town of Villar de Don Pardo, known
as Riobamba, 13 cleric curates and 9 or 10 Franciscan friars, in the
villages of Chambo, San Andrés, and others in the Province of the
Puruaes, and 4 Dominicans in the villages of Pelileo, Quero, Patate
and others.

In the State of Zaguarzongo, 11 clerics and a few friars.

1146. In the Corregimiento of Latacunga, 3 cleric curates, 3 Do-
minicans in the villages of Pansaleo and its neighborhood, and 7
Franciscans in the villages of Latacunga, Mulalo and those of the
Province of Los Sigchos.

In the Corregimiento of Otavaldé, 5 clerics and 3 Franciscan friars.

In the Corregimiento of Chimbo, 6 clerics and 4 or 5 Franciscan
and Dominican friars.

In the Corregimiento of Pasto, Mocoa and Mascas, 14 clerics and
4 Mercedarian friars. This is all that is comprised in this Diocese,
though some of the villages could not be specified.

20

Book IV

Of the District of the Circuit Court of Lima.

[In which are described all the provinces in its jurisdiction, the
silver mines, woolen and grogram mills, vineyards and the other
products of the soil, both indigenous and Spanish; the dress and
customs of the Indians; the founding of the cities and towns; the
Corregimientos and other offices, both those in the appointment of
His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council, and those
in the Viceroy’s appointment; the description of the Rio Marafion
down to the Atlantic, with the expedition led by Gov. Pedro de
Ursua; the posts of prelates and church dignitaries ; and other things
worth noting and describing, particularly the filiation of the Incas,
when their empire began, and the period of their reign.]

CHAPTER I

[Which Contains a Description] of the Offices and Revenues
Existing [in the District Governed] by the Viceroy of Peru; and of
the King’s Highways.

1147. In the preceding chapters I have stated that with Quito, or
the boundary of the jurisdiction of its Diocese, the Kingdom of
Peru begins. This is what was comprised in the Empire of the Incas
and is at present governed by the Viceroy of Peru, covering the
district of three Circuit Courts—Lima, Quito, and the Charcas—and
to a certain extent in the Kingdom of Chile, not to speak of Panama,
for that is not to the point, though it comes under his jurisdiction.
He has over 1,000 leagues in his district, from 2° N. to 43° S.,
where the city of Castro is located, on the islands of the Archipelago
of Chiloé, all N. and S., and from W. to E., from the city of San
Marcos de Arica, over 550 leagues to the city of Trinidad and port
of Buenos Ayres on the Rio de la Plata. That is what the Viceroy
has under his charge in administrative matters; he appoints to 60
(68?) Corregimientos and one State government, that of Huan-
cavelica; 12 Paymasters and Treasurers, and 7 other offices of great
importance, which are tabulated in the Index of Offices; 25 admin-
istrations of Indian communal organizations, and over 80 posts of
Indian Protectors and mill inspectors, not counting his military and
naval appointments, and those ad interim in case of death—all these
with large salaries and perquisites. Besides this, he presides

386

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 387

over the Indian assignments (encomiendas) in those vast and exten-
sive kingdoms. Thus he has at his command a huge sum in the peso
incomes of the beneficiaries of the encomiendas which fall vacant ;
after he confers the favor, it has to be approved by His Majesty
and the Supreme Council. So great is this amount that merely in
the district of the Circuit Courts of the Charcas, Lima and part of
that of Quito, during the incumbency of Viceroy Don Francisco de
Toledo, there was assigned in 614 encomiendas and repartimientos,
an income of 1,384,228 assay pesos, although there has been a great
falling off, there being no set figure, and the Indians having died off
and petered out.

[Cuap. 2. In Which Are Described the King’s Highways of the
Incas in the Kingdom of Peru.]

1148. In this great segment of the New World, two Cordilleras
run side by side from the Province of Santa Marta to the Strait of
Magellan, over 1,500 leagues. Between these Cordilleras runs the
King’s Highway, named after the Incas, from Pasto to Chile, which
is over 1,000 leagues. The paved road is over 20 feet wide and
climbs over passes which look impossible; and along the whole way
every 3 leagues there are Royal Apartments, where the Inca kings
lodged, and about them many others for the servants and impedimenta,
and for storehouses and granaries to contain the corn, potatoes, and
other food for their people, both in time of peace and war. These
apartments were built of excellent cut stone; the stone or rock is
laid and fitted one piece above another with such elegant and refined
skill that you could never guess they had put any mortar or other
substance in between to hold them together.

1149. Most of these Royal Apartments serve at present as inns
for travelers; they are like roadhouses or taverns, at which travelers
stop. As for those not in use, their ruins indicate the grandeur and
majesty which prevailed in those days. Furthermore, to show the
good administration they had: in order to receive from any quarter
brief accounts of what was being done or was going on in any part
of the kingdom, they had for the entire length of the King’s Highways
at intervals of a league, cabins with ordinarily one or two Indians
who acted as couriers or postmen; in that kingdom they call them
chasques ; every village along the route was under obligation to keep
them there for the governor of that province, and when the Inca
needed to send word at top speed, the Indian ran that league at his
fastest, and before he reached the next chasque, to warn them to get

388 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

ready as quickly as possible, he blew his little horn or shell, and gave
the other, thus warned, the message or document, and he ran with
it the same way. Thus this was all so well organized and so faithfully
carried out that if it was necessary, they would run 470 leagues, or
more than the distance between Quito and Cuzco, in less than 8 days;
and in this way the Inca kings got news from all over their Kingdom,
widespread and extensive though it was, in quick time, so that they
could attend to what was asked of them.

1150. The other King’s Highway ran along the plains parallel with
the coast within sight of the sea. This was over 24 feet wide and
was like a very straight avenue, built between two adobe walls,
strongly and carefully made, so that even today a considerable part
of them remains standing, and I have seen them on most of the
plains of that kingdom.

1151. This road runs from Tumbes and passes where the city of
San Miguel de Piura stands and along all the valleys of that kingdom
to the Kingdom of Chile, where the Plains Road and the Sierra
Road come together. In all the plains valleys it had royal houses
and apartments built with great pains; a large part of them remain
‘standing and their ruins show what extensive and haughty buildings
they were; but all has decayed with time. This King’s Highway for
the plains was walled in where the rivers run down to the sea; but
for long remote stretches and on the uninhabited sand dunes, where
they could not succeed in road construction, they laid out and marked
off the road with rocks and stakes driven into the dunes; and as it
does not rain in those regions, traces of them can be seen and remain
standing in many localities.

1152. In this kingdom there are three features so different and
yet in combination that it would seem impossible to one who had not
seen it; yet one should not be surprised, for the Glorious Doctor St.
Augustine and other saints were of the opinion that the Torrid Zone
is not habitable, and the contrary is true, for this is one of the most
populous and fertile countries in the world. The plains are 6 or 8
leagues wide, sometimes more, along the coast ; they run from Tumbes,
which is not 2° S., to Coquimbo, which is 32° S. The sierra will
average 20 leagues in width, sometimes more, with many hills, ravines
and some valleys. This is cool country. The Andes are Io or 12
leagues across, heavily wooded and forested. The country is very
hot and damp; many varieties of all sorts of animals live there, birds,
poisonous snakes and other vermin; many kinds of delicious fruit
grow there, and the valuable and highly prized coca.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 389

1158. These three topographical features occur within a distance
of 50 leagues E. and W., and they run N. and S. side by side for
over 500 leagues. The plains are hot, dry country; it never rains
there ; the sierra in the middle is cool country ; it rains in the proper
season, and there is usually much snow; in the Andes it rains all
the time and it is very hot. Thus the sierra in the center has its
seasons when it rains; of the two collateral features, one is hot and
dry, the other very hot and damp. Since this country is all under
the same sky, that there should be such diversity shows that Divine
Providence gives human intellects much to ponder over, and however
much they argue, they can never succeed in ferreting out the goal
of truth.

CHAPTER IT

Of the City of Trujillo and Its Provinces, and Special Features
of Its Diocese | Which Is Suffragan to Lima. |

1154. Traveling S. from Quito, one comes at 230 leagues to the
city of Trujillo, founded in the year 1533 by Don Diego de Almagro
and Don Diego de Mora under orders and with commission from
Don Francisco Pizarro. It lies in its fertile valley a quarter league
from the ancient settlement of Chimocapac, at 8° S., 2 leagues from
the sea. The city was one of the noblest of that realm, [and so it
is at present ; it has a hot climate.] It has over 400 Spanish residents,
(Marg.: Many of them encomenderos; among the most important
is Don Juan de Avendafio Gamboa. He served valiantly in Flanders,
Naples, and [later] against the Moors in the Granada rebellion,
being attached to the person of Don Juan of Austria, and in one of
the battles it happened that he was wounded and lost his right arm.
He came over as Governor of Arequipa and later of the Provinces
of Parinacochas and Conchucos, and held other offices in which he
gave a good account of himself. He was General of the Pacific,
and the person consulted by the Viceroy Don Luis de Velasco in all
matters of importance; later he gave him the encomienda of the
Provinces of Huamachuco and Otuzco, which he enjoys at Trujillo;
and H.M. King Philip II graciously granted him the patronage of
Nuestra Sefiora de Irruibalcaya of the town of Re (sic); this
patronage has been left by this Don Juan to Don Martin de Avendajio
his nephew as his presumptive (afocoso) heir, since he has no sons.
(End of Marg. note.)) The city has also a large service contingent
of Indians, Negroes, and mulattoes. It is the capital of a Diocese [with
very wide jurisdiction] which was carved out from the Archdiocese
of Lima [which is 200 leagues S.] and that of Quito, and lies between

390 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

them. It has a very fine Cathedral, Dominican, Franciscan, Augus-
tinian, and Mercedarian convents, and a fine nunnery, Santa Clara,
with other churches and pilgrimage shrines. Its jurisdiction is so
extensive that another Bishop could [and should] be appointed for
Chachapoyas, for the good of its administration.

1155. The city is built on the plains where there is no rain, in a
pleasant and fertile valley where they raise much irrigated wheat
and corn, kidney beans, pallares, peanuts, chickpeas, and other cereals
and vegetables, both indigenous and Spanish. They have some olive
groves, but only a few; they get excellent olives and [already] some
oil. There are [some] vineyards, and [much] native fruit like
bananas, aguacates, cucumbers, guavas, pineapples, and others; of
Spanish varieties, large and small peaches, pears, apples, pippins, figs,
and others; and many sugar plantations [especially in the Chicama
valley, which is 5 leagues N. of the city; this is a very wide and
fertile valley, where they raise much corn, wheat, and other cereals ;
there are many apricots and sugar plantations with large mills where
they make [large] quantities of sugar; there are excellent]. There
are cattle and sheep and mule ranches, and through the whole Chicama
valley many guacas, which are the sumptuous tombs which the
Indians had for their burials; they put in them also all the wealth
of silver and gold they possessed, and the other valuables [they had],
both elaborate clothing and whatever else was necessary for their
service [and their food and wine] for the journey to the other life
of their perdition. In this valley there are also some vineyards; its
river produces excellent fish and large crayfish, as is true of all the
rivers in this kingdom.

1156. This Diocese was created and carved out of the Dioceses
of Lima and Peru because of the great extent and wealth of its
jurisdiction, at the time when the Marqués de Montesclaros was
Viceroy of Peru. The first Bishop was Dr. Don Jeronimo de Carcamo,
and disembarking on the Pacific within sight of his Diocese, he lost
his life in the sea. [At once] Fray Don Francisco de Cabrera, Bishop
of Puerto Rico, followed him, being the first to take possession ;
he governed from the year 1615 till 1619, when he died; at the
present time the Bishop is Dr. Carlos Marcelo [and he still is today].

1157. And when I was in the city of Lima de Los Reyes in that
year 1619, a Thursday, first day of Lent after Ash Wednesday, at
about I1 a.m., there came such a great earthquake that it laid low
almost all the city (of Trujillo.C.U.C.) dashing all the houses to
the ground, and its temples, which were very fine and all the con-
struction very well done; more than 400 persons were killed—a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 391

catastrophe and chastisement which God sent upon that city for His
just judgments. [Immediately] After the shock of the earthquake
which caused this damage at Trujillo had passed, within a quarter
of an hour it reached Lima, but without any further force that I
could discover ; but within 5 days a message [from Trujillo] reached
Lima with the news of the earthquake and disaster, and the hour
when it happened, asking them to send some aid to the city for the
destitute survivors.

1158. The Guaca of the Sun which used to stand in this valley,
was in the days of the Indians’ heathendom one of the greatest
sanctuaries in that realm; from many quarters within it, [many]
Indians came on pilgrimage to carry out vows and promises [they
had made], and mutilate themselves [which was their gratitude for
favors received] and offer gifts [at their mutilation]. And so in
this Trujillo Valley and in that of the settlement of Chimocapac,
where there are [many very] sumptuous guacas, they have found
great treasures, and [very great] treasures remain to be found today ;
among the [many very] rich ones already found and discovered
was one guaca out of which they took so much wealth that merely
' His Majesty’s 20 percent amounted to over 80,000 pesos.

1159. The guacas are the burial places where the heathen were
buried with all the wealth in silver and gold and valuables [and
prized possessions] which were theirs, as was the custom in the days
of David and Solomon. These guaca burial places are like castles,
[all] built of [many] adobes which are sun-baked bricks, and with
[many] merlon battlements. Every guaca is very elaborate; there
are [great] quantities of them in this settlement which belonged to
King Chimocapoc. Whether by the sea or in the Trujillo Valley
or in all the other Peruvian valleys, in [all of] which it never rains,
they are of one same type; in the circuit of the guacas, among the
battlements and walls [of them], there are innumerable skulls of
those heathen, which look as if they had been put there only a short
time ago; and the construction of each guaca is so massive that even
if it is certain that there is great wealth and treasure in them, many
have been ruined in their search for them, if they were not perfectly
sure where to find the opening of the entrance or gateway to the guaca.

CHAPTER III

Of the Corregimientos and Curacies of the District of the Diocese
of Trujillo.

1160. In the district of the Diocese of Trujillo there are 12 Cor-
regimientos, and in them 10g dotrinas or curacies, 44 administered

392 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

by clerics and 55 by friars, as will be detailed. In the city and Corregi-
miento of Trujillo, 4 cleric curates, 3 for Spaniards and 1 for
Yanaconas.

In the Corregimiento of Chiclayo, 22 curates: 2 clerics, 1 in Reque,
the other in Callanca ; and 20 friars, thus distributed: 4 Mercedarians,
in Guafiape, Moche, Payjan, and the other at the Licapa mill; 4 Fran-
ciscans, in Chiclayo, Etén, Huanchaco, Mansiche; 7 Augustinians,
in Simball, San Pedro de Lloco, Jequetepeque, Cherrepe, Mocupe,
Guadelupe, Chepén; 5 Dominicans, at the Chicama mill, at that of
Forcalla, Chocope, La Magdalena de Cao, Santiago de Chicama.

1161. In the Corregimiento of the town of Sana there are 13
curacies, 12 of clerics: 2 in the town of Sana for Spaniards, the
other for Yanaconas; 4 clerics in the village of Lambayeque, and
the rest at the Zaa sugar mill, Illimo, Ferrenafe, Tucume, Mochumi—
all clerics; and in the village of San Miguel, one Franciscan friar.

In the Corregimiento of Cajamarca, 24 curacies: 1 cleric in Caja-
marca for the Spaniards, another in Condebamba; 13 Franciscan
friars in San Marcos, Jest, Celendin, La Ascencion, Cajamarca,
Contumaza, Cascas, Cuzmango, La Trinidad, Chota, San Pablo, San
Miguel, Niepos; and 7 Augustinians, in Huamachuco, Otuzco, the
Carabamba mill, Usquil, Chusg6n, Cajabamba, the Sincicap mill;
and 3 Mercedarians, in the Province of Huambos, in Llama, Queta-
coto, and another in Socota.

In the Corregimiento of the cities of Chachapoyas and Moyo-
bamba, 2 curates for Spaniards, each city with its own.

1162. In the Corregimiento of Luya and Chillaos, 9 curates, 7 of
them clerics: in Luya, Zacatayamon, and Quistancho, Hondaycoca,
Corobamba, Teata, Pomacocha, Andasbamba; and 2 Mercedarians,
in La Jalca and in Tomorbamba.

In the Corregimiento of Paclas, 6 curates, all Mercedarians, in
Zoritor, Chixinos, Vagazan, Taulia, Olleros, Chelequin.

In the Corregimiento of Cajamarquilla, 6 curates, all clerics, in
Leimebamba, Santo Thomas, and San Ildefonso, Cajamarquilla, Con-
dormarca, Buldibuyo, Tayabamba, Collay.

In the Corregimiento of Jaén de Bracamoros there are 7 cleric
curates: in the city of Jaén, Loma, and Copallin, Guallipe, Guaratopa,
Atonipa, and Tabaconas, Cherinos, Los Huambos, Tulloca.

In the Corregimiento of the city of San Miguel de Piura there are
13 curates: 11 clerics, in Piura, Catacaos, Olmos, Jayanca, Pacora,
Motupe, Salas, and Penachi, Huancabamba, Sechura, Paita, and
Colan, Ayabaca; and 2 Mercedarians, in Tumbes, and Frias. This
is what is comprised in this Diocese of Trujillo.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 393

CHAPTER IV

Continuing the Description of Trujillo and Its District.

1168. At a quarter league from the city is the village of Mansiche,
with delicious fruit and vegetables. Its Peruvian cucumbers are the
best in the kingdom. The plant on which they grow is like a pepper
plant; the leaves resemble tomato leaves. The cucumbers come in
many varieties and colors—small, large, round, the size and shape
of pears; some are long, also; they are purple, yellow, white, striped,
and in other colors; [they are] smooth and very thin-skinned ; they
taste very good, are juicy and refreshing, and are good for the
kidneys and the digestion. They eat them ripe, not as we do, and
they are only to be found in the Kingdoms of Peru.

1164. Near the city lie other villages, like that of La Magdalena,
Guafiape, and that of Las Granadas, up the valley on the way to
Otuzco. It has jurisdiction for 16 leagues S. along the coast, up to
the Rio de Santa, which separates this Diocese from the Archdiocese
of Lima; and for 100 leagues along the coast and plains to the N..,
up to the port of Paita and the village of Colan; in this stretch there
are grand valleys with large Indian settlements. Along the sierra
it has extensive provinces rich in silver mines, with cattle, sheep, hog,
and mule ranches; there are mills which manufacture cloth, blankets,
and grogram.

1165. Two leagues from the city is the port of Mal Abrigo, dan-
gerous because it is a rough coast; but that is where they ship their
products, viz, flour, sugar, and quantities of biscuit and preserves
which are put up for Lima, Panama, and other points. The country
is hot but healthy, with bright skies and salubrious breezes, and
although it never rains, it seems like a garden of Paradise because
of the irrigated gardens which surround all the houses and the city
itself ; in them they have all varieties of native and Spanish fruit,
so that the city is one of the pleasantest in the Indies.

1166. The town of Safa or Miraflores is 28 leagues N. of Trujillo,
and 5 from the sea. It is situated in a fertile valley abounding in
wheat, corn, vineyards, fruit, and all else necessary for human life.
It has a parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustinian
convents, and a hospital with other churches and shrines. The town
does a lively trade in sugar and cordovan leather.

CHAPTER IV

Other Features of the District of Trujillo [etc.] and Its Provinces.
1167. |The Indian village of Mansiche is a quarter league from the
city, with delicious vegetables and fruit, particularly Peruvian cucum-

394 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

bers; these are of many kinds and] varieties ; those from this village
[have the reputation all over the kingdom of] being the best in Peru,
[since they are among the best and most delicious]. The plant
resembles a pepper plant, but the leaf is smaller and more elaborate,
[in its color and the [ ] of its shape] is like a tomato leaf.
[The cucumber] is [there are] of many sorts—purple, [likewise
there are] yellow and white (Marg.: and of other colors), and they
are very smooth. They must be ripe when eaten, for when green
[they are worth nothing] they are no good; they come long, round,
and in [many] other shapes, small and large. They taste very good
when fully ripe; they are very juicy and refreshing, and are good
for the kidneys and digestion; you peel off the skin, which is very
soft and thin, and then eat it all. This fruit [I never saw in all of
New Spain and Honduras, or in the islands; it] only grows in Peru.

Near the city are other villages, like La Magdalena, Las Granadas
up the valley, and other [villages which I omit mentioning. |

1168. [It has jurisdiction over the plains [where it never rains]
for 18 leagues S. along the coast to the town of Santa, which belongs
to the Archdiocese of Lima; and 100 leagues N. along the coast to
the port of Paita and the village of Colan, and in the district are
[many] fine fertile valleys, and [in them] with large [and very
attractive] Indian settlements. Along the sierra there are extensive
provinces [very] rich [where there are many] in silver mines and
with cattle and sheep ranches, and mills where they manufacture
cloth, grogram, etc., [and in the district five cities of Spaniards and
one town, which will be described in their proper place.]] (Marg.
note: As was described in the preceding chapter.)

1169. In the district and jurisdiction of this Diocese there are
II Corregimientos, to 5 of which appointments are made by the
Council: Paita, and Paira, Trujillo, Safa, and Jaén de Bracamoros ;
and 6 whose incumbents are named by the Viceroy of Peru: Chicama,
although usually this is administered by the Corregidor of Trujillo;
Cajamarca, although since the Viceroy provided that this be given
to the [Ambassador, it is H.M. who makes the appointment ; Chacha-
poyas, Cajamarquilla, and Collay, Los Chillaos.] The city has Off-
cials of the Royal Patrimony and a Royal Treasury. [And in this
city] they make [large] quantities of biscuit [and in its valleys]
flour and preserves which are exported to Panama and other points.
[And the Corregimiento of Trujillo administers that of Chicama,
which belongs to the city for 5 leagues up its valley, where it gets
all the rest of its supplies as described, though the city has] its

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 395

treacherous harbor, the coast being rough, [which is named Mal
Abrigo, where they go to load the ships. ]

The country has a hot but healthy climate, with bright skies and
health-giving breezes, and although it never rains, it looks like a
garden of Paradise, on account of the gardens within the city and
around it, with many oranges, limes, citrons, and grapefruit, and
a thousand other kinds of trees and fruit.

[CuHap. Of the Town of Safa.]

1170. [Twenty-eight leagues N. of Trujillo, and five from the sea,
lies the town of Safa, otherwise known as Miraflores, in a fertile
and prolific valley, [and with much water and many amenities].
Here there is a parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, and Augus-
tinian convents, a hospital, and other churches and shrines. The town
is very [well supplied with excellent provisions, and is very] | (Note:
This whole chapter is deleted to this point in the MS.) active in
the commerce of sugar and cordovan leather, which are prepared
here [in quantities] and exported to Lima and other points; they
make [large amounts of] preserves, and in the valley they get [large]
quantities of wine, wheat, corn, and other Spanish and native cereals.
It has its port at Cherrepe, 5 leagues from the town; it is not good
for the coast is rough, but still they load the local products on the
ships there.

It has a Corregidor appointed by the Council; he administers also
the valley of Guadalupe, where there is a very holy image of Our
Lady with this title, much venerated and resorted to in these king-
doms. Five leagues away is the valley of San Pedro de Lloco; all
this country is fertile and prolific, and to the S. of Sajfia.

1171. Seven leagues to the N. it has the famous valley in which
lies the rich and delightful village of Lambayeque, [which is] the
largest [village] in all the plains of Peru. There are four curates
in the church for the instruction of the inhabitants and to administer
the Holy Sacraments. The place is abundantly supplied with fruit
and fresh fish, since they are not far from the sea; the Indians bring
it up on the double-quick. They have vineyards and olive groves at
this place, and very large, fine melons ripen the whole year through;
they usually sell them six for a real, and they assured me when I was
there that all the Indians had to do was to throw the seeds on the
sand and they would germinate in the luxuriant coolness. In all
these valleys they raise great quantities of cotton, and especially in
this; they work up a great deal here, turning out [great] quantities

396 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of blankets and candlewicks; the Spanish traders come in and buy
them for sale elsewhere. In this town and valley they make large
amounts of soap, which is exported to Lima and other points, and
very elaborate reed mats and palm-leaf hats, from all of which they
make a great deal of money. In this valley and that of Safa there
is much cattle, particularly goats, which feed on guaranga, which
is the leaf and fruit of the tree so called; the Spaniards call it
algarrobo (carob). The seed is white, and of the shape and almost
the taste of the Spanish carob beans. Half a league from Lambayeque
there is another very fertile valley with the village of Chiclayo [in it] ;
it has an elaborate and architecturally [very] interesting Franciscan
convent. There is a Corregidor there, appointed by the Viceroy ;
the town has the same interests and products as those just mentioned.

1172. There are many other very fertile valleys, like those of
Reque, Jayanca, Motupe, and others of great fertility and lively com-
merce. [As for the great productiveness of these valleys, they lie
along the river banks, and it must be borne in mind that] All this
country is irrigated. The villages are built in the valleys on the river
banks, with many trees about them; everything else is barren sand
dunes and uninhabitable territory, for it does not [ever] rain there.

1173. The village of the Olmos Indians is built in the midst of a
barren sandy waste, where it never rains. They get their water from
jagueyes, which are wells or pools, out of which they draw it. This
is a rich village for all the Olmos Indians are muleteers and keep
mules ; and when the ships arrive from the Spanish Main, they go
down with their mules and load them, charging 30 or 40 pesos each,
or what they can get, for the trip to Lima, which is 180 leagues ; and
they are so careful, skillful, and conscientious in their task that those
whose goods are being freighted, never worry about anything. As
all that country is sandy desert, they start traveling toward evening
and march all night, till they reach the jagttey or place or valley
where they plan to stop, and they stay there all day resting and the
mules feeding, till it is time to start traveling again; one travels with
more pleasure and comfort with them than with muleteers in Spain.

CHAPTER V

Of the City of Piura[llo] and Its District.

1174. The city of San Miguel de Piura, first named San Fran-
cisco de Buena Esperanza, was the first founded by Marqués Don
Francisco Pizarro, in the year 1531, in which he first entered that
realm ; and it was here that he dedicated and consecrated to God the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 397

first temple in that kingdom. Consequently, God has honored it;
for though it has not grown like others in those kingdoms, it has
taken the first fruits from them, for the whole Kingdom of Peru has
taken its name and title from Piura.

1175. The city will have a little over 100 Spanish residents, not
counting the service contingent. It has a parish church, a Mercedarian
convent and a hospital for the sick. There is a Corregidor, appointed
by the Council, with Officials of the Royal Patrimony. The city was
founded at Tangarara, but that was an unhealthy spot so they dis-
mantled it and moved it to where it is today, between two valleys, in
what is naturally a sandy desert. To the S., Trujillo is 90 leagues
away ; to the N., Quito is 140 leagues and Loja and Zaruma, 60 in the
same direction. One league from the city is the very attractive village
of Catacaos, where they grow excellent melons, with other kinds of
fruit and vegetables. All the Indians in this village are muleteers,
like the Olmos [and very good Indians]. Twelve leagues WNW. of
the city is the famous port of Paita, [where the Corregidor appoints
a representative], which is at 5° S. This harbor is [very] good and
deep, and the goal of all the ships coming from Panama, Nicaragua,
and New Spain, and point of departure of those going from Peru
to the Spanish Main. [This port is good, commodious, and safe].
The Indians are great fishermen, and so there is usually plenty of
fresh fish here, [many] jars of tunny made of swordfish, as good
and delicate as what we have in Spain, and of lisas (loaches?) and
other fish and many tollos (spotted dogfish), with which they furnish
fish to all the interior. It is a remarkable fact that there is no fresh
water at this port, for there is no river or valley there, and it never
rains; so they go to Colan, a village a league NW. of the harbor
and on the Rio de Colan, and bring the water back on floats [in
quantities of jugs] [for the village of] Paita. A few Spaniards live
with the Indians here; the village is built on a sandbank, the houses
are only a few bamboo poles stuck in the sand and at the best plastered
with a little mud on the outside—what they call bajareques—and
for roof some matting or a little dried dung. So the Spaniards who
come from Spain and have pictured in their imagination the riches
of that realm, where their fancy has paved the streets with bars of
silver and with silver reals, and they are eager to get to Peru and
see it, for with their burning desire to enrich themselves, they have
no other idea in their minds but wealth—when they reach this harbor
and see the tumble-down houses, their disappointment is immense,
and grows as they note the barren sandbanks and dunes; to all
appearance their anticipations are altogether unfounded. A thoughtful

398 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

guide who had been considering this and had come to meet a friend
arriving from Spain, on noting his discomfiture said to him: “Don’t
be cast down; you’re in the best country God has created on earth;
you see these poles and bamboos stuck in the sand; they look as if
they were worth nothing, but they’re all made of gold and silver ;
go and look at them and you'll see I’m not fooling you”—thus cheer-
ing him up by making him understand he should not be troubled
by what was the custom of the country, which required nothing more ;
that the country was the best and richest in the world. Everybody
who can disembarks at this port, so as not to endure the tedium of
the ships beating to windward with the bowlines hauled, one tack
to sea and one to landward; and with Olmos or Catacaos Indians
they continue over the plains and their valleys to Lima.

1176. There are alligators in the Rio de Colan, but those are the
last, for there are none in all the rivers and valleys of Peru, even
though it is hot country; I understand that the reason is that they
need not merely a hot but a damp climate, as is the case at Guayaquil,
and in all the rivers under the Equator, and in the New Kingdom
of Granada, Honduras, and a large part of New Spain.

The clothing of the Indians of the plains has become entirely
Spanish, and the Indian women wear a big black cotton Mother
Hubbard (saco grande) ; the well-to-do or the chieftainesses drag a
train a yard long after them, like canons in Seville or Toledo, the
wealthier, the longer, for that is their index of authority ; in general
they are very dirty, though all of them are good people and have taken
firm hold on the tenets of our Holy Faith.

1177. The Corregidor of Piura appoints two representatives in
the sierra, one in Ayabaca, which is on the border of the Province
of Los Calvas in the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court and Diocese of
Quito; he governs all that province, and that of Frias. He puts the
other in Huancabamba, which borders on the Province of Los
Huambos in the Corregimiento of Cajamarca.

In the Piura valleys there are excellent ranches and herds of
merino sheep, which live on guaranga or algarroba; they are the
fattest and best-flavored mutton in the world, and a sheep sells there
for 8 reals. In the sierra there are cattle and mule ranches; in the
Piura district they raise wheat, corn, and other cereals and fruit.
This whole country is very attractive.

1178. The Diocese of Trujillo extends along the sierra as far
as the farthest bound of the Province of Huamachuco, where it
borders on La Pallasca in the Province of Los Conchucos of the
Archdiocese of Lima; to the S. it extends to Ayabaca; and it runs

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 399

N. on the same N.-S. line over 120 leagues in this sierra. Thirty-five
leagues E. of Trujillo is the town of Cajamarca, capital of all the
provinces under the jurisdiction of the Corregidor appointed by the
Viceroy ; he is however appointed by the Council at present.

1179. Sixteen leagues to the N. is the Province of Los Huambos
[which is] curacies of Mercedarian friars; there are large horse
ranches there; [horses are cheap]. The Provinces of Niepos, San
Pablo, San Francisco de Contumaza, Cascas, Simball, Cuzmango,
de Jests (Marg.: This is where Don Juan de Avendafio has his
encomienda.) and others are [all] catechized by Franciscan friars.

1180. The Province of Huamachuco, 18 leagues S. of Cajamarca,
is an Augustinian priorate, with the curacies of Cajabamba, Santiago
de Chuco, El Obraje, and others; in the district there are large
cattle and sheep ranches [in abundance] and [much] native cattle
(llamas). This is all cold country, with some snow-topped sierras.
After crossing to the W. a stretch of puna (high tableland), [all
inhabited country, and mountainous], one comes to the springs form-
ing the river which runs down the Trujillo valley.

1181. Next comes the Province of Otuzco, thickly settled and rich
in cattle and sheep and with mule ranches. There are some silver
mines in this jurisdiction ; the whole country abounds in wheat [and
corn and many luxuries] and potatoes.

[Cuap. 6. Of the Town of Cajamarca and Its District. ]

CHAPTER VI

Of Cajamarca, etc.

1182. The town of Cajamarca la Grande is [36 leagues E. of
Trujillo] in the midst of the Cordillera, built on the W. side of a
valley which will be over 4 leagues long and in places over 2 broad,
running practically E. and W. This is cold country for it is in the
sierra in the midst of the Cordillera. It abounds in wheat, corn, and
potatoes, though the crops are occasionally nipped by the frost. A
small stream runs through the valley, and 1 league from the town
are the Inca’s Baths, so famous in that kingdom, where King Ata-
balipa was with all the nobles and chieftains of his court when Don
Francisco Pizarro, in December 1531, arrived at Cajamarca and
captured him, as is related by the historians of the Indies.

1183. At these baths there are excellent bathhouses and pools con-
structed by the Incas, all roofed over with the water in runnels, both
the hot as it comes naturally and the cold which they put in to cool

400 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

it, for it runs very hot, and that without there being any active
volcanoes in all this region. A harquebus-shot away is a lake of hot
water from these baths, and there is a tradition [and it is held to
be quite certain] that when the Indians saw what had happened, and
the Spaniards’ greed for gold and silver, [it is affirmed] they threw
into it great wealth of silver and gold vases and gold leaf ; and some
inquisitive persons, or avaricious would be a better word, have tried
to drain it into the river in order to search for that wealth and get
it out, but they were not successful for they lacked the means and
possibilities of doing it. These baths are very healthful and beneficial
to invalids ; I myself happening to be in poor health in the year 1615
took the cure here and God graciously restored my health; I was
on my way to the settlement of the Motilones and Tabalosos to
preach them our Holy Faith. From the baths to Cajamarca there is
a straight road, like a street or avenue, a league long, planted by
their orders with many poplars and other shade trees at very great
expense, because in the valley on account of the cold there are no
woods but it is all bare. The town of Cajamarca is very large and
extensive; the settlement has straight streets well constructed; in
my opinion it is the best Indian village to be found in the whole
Kingdom of Peru. There is a fine large convent here of Franciscans,
who give them religious instruction and administer the Holy Sacra-
ments. The Corregidor here was always appointed by the Viceroy ;
they gave the post to the persons who brought the formal notification
of the departure of the new Viceroy to succeed his predecessor ; at
present it is in the gift of His Majesty and the Council.

[Cuap. 7. Continuing the Description of Cajamarca. |

1184, There are many woolen mills here, where they turn out
[much] cloth and grogram; they belong to the encomenderos, [and
the Indians do all the work.] Over too Spaniards live in this town ;
there are many mercantile and trading establishments, for the place
is large and has an active commerce; [and] it is on the King’s High-
way through the sierra for all those coming from the New Kingdom
of Granada and from Quito with merchandise for Cuzco, Potosi,
and all the upland country. So the Indian community and Council
of this town maintains a very large, capacious, and well-built hostelry
in which to lodge all the muleteers and traders, with ample service
of Indians, innkeeper, and constables (Alguaciles) for the service of
the Spaniards who put up there. This is in the plaza, which is very
large; and on the other side is the Guairona, a group of fine large

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 401

buildings for more important travelers, where the Alcaldes and
Alguaciles take prompt care to provide them with everything needful
for their money; it is very well run. Next it is the [fine] residence
of the Corregidor, where he has many Indians who prepare and
make cloth for him which is called cumbe, very elaborate, with painted
figures, hunting scenes and other elaborate representations which are
highly prized and valued; they are made of wool, some of vicufa
and others of llama wool, with very elaborate fancywork in various
colors; Indian small boys do this work, and the instruments with
which they do this tightly woven and perfect embroidery of the
cumbi (!) are made of chicken and sheep bones well ground and
sharpened, and it certainly is most surprising to see them turn out
these cumbes and the other things they do.

1185. In this town there are many artisans of all sorts of profes-
sions; excellent scribes; singers and a choirmaster who instructs
them ; they repair every day like canons to the church to recite their
prayers, the lesser service of Our Lady; they assist at the Mass;
they have flageolets and [many] other musical instruments for the cele-
bration of divine service—a custom very general over all the Indies ;
usually those who officiate thus are always the sons of the leading
men and chieftains; they greatly appreciate this and consider it a
very high honor.

[Marg.: CuHap. 7. Continuing the Description of Cajamarca. |

1186. The house of the Cacique comes next to the Corregidor’s
and near the convent; there is only one street in between, and on it
is the room which King Atabalipa designated to be filled with gold
for his ransom, with the line drawn as a limit; the Cacique showed
it to me and in the apartment where that king was captured, the
room was roofless and the whole wall was built of stone slabs very
well cut; [the room] it might be 4o feet long, and the line drawn
on the wall, up to which he had promised to fill the room with gold,
was approximately a stade and a half from the floor, or as high
as a man of good stature could draw it with a poniard or a dagger.
[And] as Cacique Don Felipe remarked to me, that room remains
and will remain untouched, as a memorial of the imprisonment and
death of Atabalipa; it happened right after the entry of the Span-
iards, in December 1531, and his death took place in March of the
following year, 1532. The Bishop had the intention of appointing
a curate for the Spaniards here.

1187. In the district to the S. near the village of San Marcos a
powerful river has to be crossed, on its way to join the Rio de Los
Balsas, which is the one running through the Cajamarca valley, and

27

402 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

other streams which have emptied into it; they have built a rope
bridge over it, using reeds like withes; weaving quantities of them
together, they make two stout cables of the thickness of a man’s
thigh and a little longer than the width of the river. At a suitable and
proper spot along the river they tie them fast on the one side to
large trees or rocks, and then they adjust and fasten them on the
other side until the cables [of reeds or withes] are taut. On these
they build the bridge of many poles and reeds tied tight together
like hurdles or wattlework; they put two other cables a vara higher
than the first, which serve as railing; and they take many poles and
plait them together between the upper and lower cables, acting as
sides of a corridor, so that persons crossing will be safe. That is
the nature of the rope bridges; when people pass over them they
shake a lot, but they are very secure. The Indians have many other
kinds of bridges [and methods] for crossing streams, which will be
described in their proper places; bridges like ours, with arches and
cement, they never achieved, nor did they have them. Let this
account suffice for the Corregimiento of Cajamarca, adding that the
Incas had many storehouses on the highest points of most of those
ridges which overlook the valley around the town; today they remain
there unchanged; they used to store in them corn, potatoes, and
other food for their armies and the relief of the poor. There are
some silver mines in this district, like those of San Cristébal and
others, and cattle and hog ranches. All the deer and llamas have
bezoar stones in their stomachs.

1188. The eastern boundary of the Corregimiento of Cajamarca
reaches the mighty Rio de Las Balsas; it runs for almost 20 leagues
between very lofty sierras, deep down below them; even when it
is cold up on the uplands, it is very hot down there. They cross this
river on rafts made of several logs, usually made of the tree called
papaya (papaw), which is abundant on the banks of this rushing
river. To cross it, the Indian men and women carry under their arms
or on their shoulders one of these light raft logs; they put it in the
water and either hang on to it or bestride it, and in this way they
get across the river very safely. When I saw tiny Indian girls doing
this I was astounded, and I was glad I had seen it, being now
instructed for any similar need, and profiting by it on other occasions,
when I had to cross rivers. The above is a very ample jurisdiction
for the Diocese of Trujillo, and as for the rest, there might well be
another created, as has been requested for many years by the city
of Chachapoyas for itself and its provinces for their spiritual needs ;
they suffer through being so remote that no Bishop comes for visits

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 403

or confirmations; and if there were a Bishop in Chachapoyas, he
would bring the Province of Los Tabalosos over to the Faith; it
has over 18,000 Indians and they beg for priests ; and there are many
other adjoining provinces which could easily be converted.

(Marg. note: Chapter 7 should be inserted here from the following
page. )

1189. The jurisdiction of the Provinces of the city of Chachapoyas
begins at the Rio de Los Balsas, which is 32 leagues inland, over
rough but very fertile country with many rivers. From the village
of Las Balsas which is on the banks of this river, there is a 6-league
climb to the village of Cochabamba, which in times past was very
extensive and had very sumptuous buildings made of well-trimmed
cut stone; these were built at the command of the Inca kings. It has
a cool climate and is very fertile. Proceeding on this route one comes
to Leimebamba and a number of other villages, which however are
small; near Leimebamba on the way to Chachapoyas is the Province
of Cajamarquilla del Collay, for whose administration the Viceroy
of Peru appoints a Corregidor; the country is very fertile and
prolific, and they get out much gold over all its jurisdiction. They
raise much corn, wheat, and potatoes here, and many other products,
although the country contains few Indians at present, many having
died off and others gone over to the hostile region which they call
Los Aucaes. The whole province is heavily wooded and very cool;
there are a few cattle and llama ranches.

CuHaptTer VII

Of the City of Chachapoyas, and Features of Its District.

1190. The city of Chachapoyas is over go leagues inland from
Trujillo, to the E., and 32 from the Rio de Las Balsas. It was
founded by Marshal Alonso de Alvarado at the command of Marqués
Don Francisco Pizarro in the year 1536, where the village of Levanto
stands today, on a high and sightly spot. Later it was moved to
where it is today, in the Province of Los Huancas, after Alonso de
Alvarado had subdued those provinces, in which enterprise he was
greatly aided by Capt. Juan Pérez de Guevara. The city has an
excellent site and is attractive, with healthful and peaceful skies;
it has a springlike climate and is plentifully supplied with cheap and
excellent provisions. In its district they raise much corn, wheat,
potatoes, and other Spanish and native cereals; and since the climate
is favorable, they have not merely indigenous fruit in abundance but
also all the Spanish varieties, like almonds, figs, large and small

404 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

peaches, apples, and pippins; it has also very good water. The Indian
men and women of this region are the best disposed and the whitest
in the whole Kingdom of Peru. In its district it has many provinces
and settlements, like Camino de Las Balsas, La Magdalena, La Jalca,
Santo Tomas, and others ; there are very rich gold mines, particularly
those of Juan Pérez de Guevara, near Camino de Las Balsas, from
which great wealth of gold has been taken, but for lack of labor
these are not working, as is the case with many others all over the
district. There are some sugar plantations and [large] cattle and
mule ranches; the mules are exported to all the region of Lima
and the upland country. Toward the E. it has many settlements,
like Querco and others in its neighborhood, and at 36 leagues, the
city of La Frontera de Moyobamba, built in a [fine] valley with
a marvelous climate, with about 60 Spanish residents. This is a
country rich in gold; everywhere they raise much corn and other
food crops; it has cattle ranches; they grow [very] good tobacco;
in the woods the bees produce much wild honey and wax; the rivers
have abundance of excellent fish.

1191. Near this city are the Provinces of the Motilones and
Tabalosos. Gov. Alvaro Enrriquez del Castillo undertook their
conversion; he got together a large force for the conversion of these
tribes; I went along as Chaplain Major of the army which was
mustered at Chachapoyas by order of the Viceroy, the Marqués de
Montesclaros, in the year 1615. But it all came to nothing, because
of the opposition of envious and cantankerous persons, such as the
Devil usually chooses as tools on such occasions, to prevent the
execution or success of such enterprises in which God Our Lord
might be well served and many souls won over to His knowledge
and service. The Devil is very [evil], astute and invidious; he fires
the stone and hides his hand, rousing passions and creating appre-
hensions, as happened on this occasion, and on that of the year 1559,
when Gen. Pedro de Ursua set out on his expedition down the Rio
Marafion, to explore it and the provinces along it, at the instance of
the Marqués de Cafiete; the Father of Discord, possessing with
such unjust title [and unjustifiably] all those blind tribes, is afraid
he will be deprived of them, and as possessor, tries to create delay.
That is what happened to us; we spent many ducats, being over
200 men setting out with holy zeal in the service of God and His
Majesty and for the cure of those souls; in fact, I alone spent for
my part in church vestments and supplies and in supporting two
soldiers at my expense and in military stores, over 4,000 pesos, and
we all came out of it impoverished and disconsolate to see our holy

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 405

intentions nullified by these oppositions. It is what happened to Gen.
Ursua also [as I shall tell in the accurate account of all that hap-
pened to him, which was given me one day by a resident of Chacha-
poyas named Altamirano who was with them, when I finish the
description of the district of Chachapoyas and the Corregimiento of
Luya and Chillaos and Jaén de Bracamoros, which is what at present
is comprised in the Diocese of Trujillo; and Chachapoyas asks that
a prelate be located there in view of the need of one there and in
its provinces; with his coming many evils would cease and other
crying needs would be satisfied, and his presence would lead to the
pacification of many provinces and their conversion to the Faith. |

Cuapter VIII

Of the Description of the City of Chachapoyas, etc. [and Other
Cities. |

1192. The city of Chachapoyas has over 200 Spanish residents of
aristocratic origin ; [the houses are tile-roofed and it looks very much
like a city in Spain.] It covers a very extensive area, for all the
houses, which are [very] well built, have gardens within; and around
the city there are good outer wards where civilized Indians live,
many of them artisans; and near the city there are gristmills where
they grind wheat. There are Indian villages within sight and near
the city. It has an excellent parish church with two curates, two
excellent convents, a Franciscan and a Mercedarian; a [very good]
hospital named Santa Ana, where they care for the sick; and other
churches and shrines. All the people in this city are very fine; and
since it is so far inland in Peru, it is the court city for everyone
who travels or lives in those provinces. In this city they make much
point lace of henequen fiber, and [much] embroidery [because the
Spanish and Indian women in this city are among the best in Peru,
and avoid idleness.]| In this neighborhood great pains have been
taken with the bridges ; besides being well built and perfectly adapted
for crossing the numerous rivers, they are all covered, so that one
hardly sees the streams, and one could stop off and sleep in them in
case of need, so well built and located are they. On the route from
Leimebamba to Chachapoyas there is a river which sinks underground
a number of times and comes out again three or four times, like the
Rio Guadiana in Spain.

1193. This Corregimiento of Chachapoyas is in the appointment
of the Viceroy [and he puts a representative in Moyobamba.] The
whole country is very fertile and heavily wooded, with [many] sorts

406 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of animals and birds and fruit [both of the varieties mentioned and
another which has not been discussed and which grows nowhere else
nor is it known except in the district of this city; it is the queen of
all fruit in delicious flavor and sweetness] and the Chachapoyas
almonds, so famous and highly esteemed in all the Kingdom of Peru.
These almonds are larger and with bigger kernels than our Spanish
ones ; they are very tender to eat, very meaty, juicy, and sweet. The
trees which produce them are very tall, well-shaped, and with thick
foliage; and Nature makes this sweet and delicious nut all the more
appreciated by enclosing it in a burr larger and with sharper spines
than chestnut burrs; when it is ripe the burr opens and the almond
falls; it has other protection inside. There are other remarkable
[products and] things, and particularly a bird whose song sounds
like an organ, with a great volume of sweet and melodious music,
though it is a tiny creature. [And it has other songs, and there are
other unique features which I omit mentioning, in order to write
briefly what remains to be said about the other Corregimientos.
In all of them they gather much cotton. |

1194. Five leagues from Chachapoyas is the Indian village of
Luya; it has a cold climate; all its houses are the shape of a half
orange. This village is the capital of the Corregimiento of the
Province of Los Chillaos, in which the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor
for the administration of this region; it is very fertile and abounds
in corn, potatoes, and other products and root crops; it has many
cattle ranches and some of llamas, mule ranches, and the best stock
ranches in the whole Kingdom of Peru, for the Luyan horses have
a high reputation everywhere, notably the Castarrica horses of Juan
de Pinedo, among them the finest horses in that kingdom [which
have been taken to Lima for the Viceroys and other persons of
eminence. |

1195. In the Province of Los Chillaos there is a rock on which
are sculptured and engraved some representations of human feet,
[and they are] held in great veneration by the Indians of this province,
for they preserve a tradition handed down from one of their ances-
tors to another from time immemorial, that an Apostle passed through
there preaching to them and teaching them a law which should take
them to Heaven. Many friars and other ecclesiastics and Spanish
laymen who have seen them, have formed and maintained the opinion
that they belonged to the Glorious Apostle St. Thomas who went
through there preaching to them, and as a record of the fact that
what he preached to them was true, he left the soles of his sainted
feet sculptured and engraved; they support this by stating that if

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 407

other proofs are needed that he came through that country to preach
the Gospel, they are evident from the miraculous Cross of Carabuco
which was found in El Collao, with other allied traditions recounted
by the Indians of those provinces; since they were illiterate, the
memory of the time and the precise facts of this truth, has perished ;
but sufficient for its support should be the pious affection and Christian
devotion which this belief is responsible for, and the fact that the
Chillaos Indians and those adjoining them, wear clothes like those
of that period, which are likewise glimmerings to accredit their
opinion. [This must suffice; let me pass on to a brief account of
the Corregimiento or State of Jaén de Bracamoros, which on the
civil side belongs to the Circuit Court of Quito. ]

[CHap. 9. Of the City of Jaén de Bracamoros and Its District. ]

1196. The city of Jaen de Bracamoros is 35 leagues N. of Chacha-
poyas. Capt. Juan Porcel subdued it with its provinces of Chuqumayu
and Chachainga, and founded the city of Jaén, though later [with
the tyrannical acts and rebellions of Gonzalo Pizarro, the region
conquered was abandoned and dismantled. Later] Capt. Diego Palo-
mino came in and resettled it in the year 1549 [which was the year
following the defeat of Gonzalo Pizarro and the execution of justice
upon him and Carvajal his Militia Captain and the others who were
guiltiest ; and when the country had settled down and become tran-
quil, each of the captains went off on the expeditions or explorations
which fell to him, and that was the occasion for the founding of the
city of Jaén de Bracamoros by Capt. Palomino.] This city will
contain 80 Spanish residents, with a parish church and a Mercedarian
convent. The State has a Governor appointed by the Council; it has
had that of Zaguarzongo added to it, a State which belonged to
Commander Juan de Salinas, who subdued and pacified those
provinces.

1197. The city has a hot climate; there are many rivers carrying
gold in its district, for the country is paved with gold. It is the
residence of the Governor of these provinces. The whole country
is wooded, for which reason wheat is not grown; there is plenty
of corn and other products and root crops. In this province they
raise much tobacco; it is the tallest, best, and strongest in all the
Indies [and in fact has a high reputation all through them and every-
where is more highly esteemed and brings a higher price than any
of other origin; so that] With this city and its provinces I conclude
the jurisdiction at present exercised by the Diocese of Trujillo, 140

408 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

leagues away ; and for the country’s good and the strengthening of all
[these provinces], it would be [very just and] suitable to have a new
Bishop established in the city of Chachapoyas. His presence there will
lead to the conversion of many heathen provinces to the E., which will
be enumerated in the following chapter, dealing with the expedition of
Gen. Pedro de Ursua in the year 1559 via the city of Moyobamba
from the district of this city, described | Marg.: by Capt. Altamirano,
a resident of Chachapoyas, just as he gave it to me written in his
own hand] by one of the soldiers who went in his company, as
follows: |They raise much cotton here. |

CHAPTER IX

Of the Expedition Conducted by Gov. Pedro de Ursua down the
Rio de Los Motilones, at the Instance of Viceroy Marqués de Canete.

1198. It was in the year 1559 that Gen. Pedro de Ursua left the
city of Lima, capital of the Kingdoms of Peru. This officer had had
wide experience in much exploration, subjugation, and settlement
of regions in the New Kingdom of Granada and the Panama district
of the Spanish Main; his great experience, very noble birth, high
station and affability made him beloved and idolized by his soldiers.
The Marqués de Canete, who was Viceroy of Peru at that time,
having full information about his great ability and high reputation,
named him as General for the exploration and conquest of the
Provinces of Omagua and El Dorado along the Rio Marafion. This
account was written by Captain Altamirano, former resident of the
city of Chachapoyas ; he went down the Rio Marafion to the Atlantic,
suffered great hardships under the tyranny of the traitor Lope de
Aguirre, and got back to Peru to the city of Chachapoyas where
he had his home; he gave it to me, and gave me information and
explanation of everything by word of mouth.

1199. Gen. Pedro de Ursua left the city of Lima in May 1559
with 370 soldiers and a service contingent of over 500 Indians and
Negroes, and carpenters and ironworkers, to build his fleet in the
Provinces of the Tabalosos and Motilones over 300 leagues from
Lima and 100 from Chachapoyas. It is at 9° S. that the river rises
down which we proceeded to come into the Rio Marafidn. It took
till September 14 of that same year 1559 to build our navy, con-
sisting of 2 brigantines, 7 flatboats, 20 rafts, and some dugouts; then
Gen. Pedro de Ursua and all of us in his suite took to the river in
search of food for the soldiers and camp followers and the horses
we had with us.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 409

1200. A week before Gov. Pedro de Ursua started down the river,
on Our Lady’s Eve in September, Lope de Aguirre and Juan Alonso
de la Bandera and Lorenzo de Salduendo and Cristobal de Chaves
asked him where they were going; that if they were going after
silver and gold, no place in the world could have more than where
they were then, which was in the Kingdoms of Peru and offered
no difficulty, without going to search for it where they did not know
whether it existed or what might happen to them. Pedro de Ursua,
realizing what was in their minds, replied with a hearty laugh: ‘That
is fine, gentlemen ; this way you will have it with greater satisfaction
and in greater quantity, and will be able to be of greater service to
your friends.”’ The disaftected officers answered that what they said
was certain and well known, easier and more remunerative, and that
it was uncertain and doubtful where they were going. Pedro de Ursua
dissembled and wished no further argument with them. One week
after we had started down the river, at 200 leagues, for the strong
current had carried our fleet that distance, we came on the Rio de
Cocami, and Don Juan de Vargas, Lieutenant General of our Gover-
nor, with 70 men struck up that river in search of food for the fleet
and its men. It took him 25 days to go upstream [and he came down
in 8] to that settlement, which was the last reached by Gov. Juan
de Salinas ; 40 soldiers who had been in his expedition had come along
with us and told us that the Indians of this province wear elaborate
cotton clothing ; they have much corn and fish and game, both deer
and tapirs and other animals, and many game birds. The country
is uninhabitable, being very hot and subject to flood and with innumer-
able mosquitoes; so all the Indians wear fly-flaps or fly-fans of
many-colored feathers, very neatly made, for protection against
mosquitoes. We took two Indians from this settlement and carried
them along for interpreters, for they understood the interpreters we
had brought along, and knew the country better.

1201. We left this settlement and traveled down the river a week
without coming on anything of importance. We caught much fish
at this time, the river being smooth and very wide; we were carrying
along a large amount of corn which we had brought down from the
settlement of Cocami; on the beaches of this great river we kept
finding immense quantities of turtle and tortoise eggs, which we
took to eat and they needed no butter or oil, for they had it in them.
Then we reached a settlement of over 2,000 naked Indians who
called themselves Los Paltas; this will be 100 leagues down the
Marafion after leaving the Province of the Motilones, and Cocami.

410 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

The food they lived on was corn, cassava, fruit, and fish. We did
not stop at this settlement but went ahead.

CHAPTER X

Continuing the Description of the Maranon Expedition.

1202. After leaving this settlement we traveled for 2 days through
uninhabited country ; and since there were many of us, we were hard
put to it, for we were over goo persons, and we could not fish in
the river, which was now so narrow—it was 4 or 5 leagues—that
the currents were very strong, and we should have been much worse
off if we had not come so well supplied with provisions. Within
these 2 days we reached the Province of Cararo, as our Indian
interpreters told us we should within that time, and so it came about ;
and over 300 canoes put out to welcome us in the middle of the
river; those with fewest in them had Io and others 12 savages, all
shouting loudly “Capito! Capito!’ meaning Captain; and they made
Gov. Pedro de Ursua a great gift of over 50 canoes of fish, corn,
yams, and peanuts, and they did the same for most of the soldiers,
for they were very eager for the trade goods which the Governor
and the soldiers gave them. There in front of them all the harque-
bussiers fired a salvo for Gov. Pedro de Ursua, and many trumpets
and drums were heard on the river. Hereupon Lope de Aguirre
again remarked to Juan Alonso de la Bandera and Cristébal de
Chaves that things would certainly seem better in the plaza at Lima
than where they were there.

They carried the Governor off to lodge in a very good chief’s
cabin, and the force lodged in the other cabins which were very
good; the settlement was very extensive, of over 8,000 Indians.
The chieftains came all day long to visit the Governor, certainly
excellent people, of excellent disposition and very well-disposed ;
they were all dressed in fine, gay cotton shirts decorated with colored
embroidery after the fashion of Peru; they all wore in their nostrils
spirals of very fine high-grade gold, and plaques on their breasts
and little gold eagles and other valuable pieces of jewelry. The
soldiers begged the Governor that they might explore and subdue
that country, for with such nice and intelligent and orderly people
and such a rich and prosperous country, it stood to reason that all
the surrounding region was very rich and prolific country, for that
fine gold could not come from the Kingdoms of Peru; we were over
300 leagues down the Marafidn and 500 from the Rio de Los Moti-
lones from whose province we had set out and where we had built

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA AII

the brigantines and embarked on our voyage; that was impossible ;
it must be that the country inland was rich and prosperous and well
peopled, for that was what the Indians of this settlement of Cararo
gave the interpreters we brought along, to understand, and that that
gold came from the country inland, where there were large settle-
ments of people wearing clothing, very intelligent and very rich.

1203. Gov. Pedro de Ursua [at the end of 4 days broke camp and]
was unwilling to consent that they should explore, for he said that
since the interpreters and their story had so far been truthful in
everything, there was no reason to abandon the certain for the
doubtful, and stop for what we knew nothing about; but the soldiers
came back and told the Governor that it was the other course that
was uncertain, and not that, for they had it right under their eyes,
while they did not know where the other was, and they knew where
this was and they could see it well and they observed it was very
rich fertile soil for they could tell it by the signs. But with all the
arguing, the Governor was unwilling to explore that country, which
would have been very important to do; there was food there for the
camp for more than 6 months, for up and down the river banks for
over 4 leagues there were fields of corn and sweet yueca and the
country had an excellent climate and was never flooded. They had
much delicious fruit in great abundance, like Zamora figs, aguacates,
sapotes, jobos or plums, lugmas, mammees, and sweet potatoes in
quantity, and peanuts, a sort of cereal which grow in Peru on a
vine like chickpeas; they are like pine nuts, very sustaining and
good to eat.

CHAPTER XI

Continuing the Exploration of the Rio Marafion.

1204, At the end of the 4 days during which we were delightfully
entertained in this settlement, where the Indians devoted themselves
to us with gusto and solicitude, Gov. Pedro de Ursua broke camp,
to the great dissatisfaction of the soldiers, and we sailed downstream
for 8 days without striking any province or settlement of importance.
These good Cararo Indians gave us company for 2 days and their
nights, providing us with food and with what service was necessary ;
on the third day they left us and returned to their province. At the
end of the 8 days after our departure from the Province and settle-
ment of Cararo, we came upon another fine large settlement with
more than 6,000 Indians, who came out to receive us in the river
with 200 war canoes, with over 2,000 Indians in excellent war forma-

412 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tion guarding the settlement, and they began an excellent defense
of their village, in which four of our soldiers were wounded; but
when the harquebussiers began firing at them, since they had never
seen anything of the sort and thought it was thunder and lightning
from Heaven, they abandoned the village, and those on the river
fled, and so we took the village. It was built on some very high
bluffs, and to get up there from the river one had to climb over 100
steps in the staircases built on the bluffs. We found a very large
settlement, and off at its sides there were a number of enclosures
with over 4,000 turtles in them; they catch them in summer in the
river and put them in these enclosures to eat during the winter;
there was a great deal of corn in their houses, which was very wel-
come to us. We stayed 15 days in this settlement because there was
plenty for us to eat there. This tribe was naked but well organized.
Their weapons were poles with estolicas, which are like lance points,
and war clubs. We understood from the interpreters that within
12 suns we should come to Omagua, and they gave us to understand
that they would kill us, for there were a great many people there,
very intelligent and courageous; their country was rich in gold and
silver, but in general they made no use of it nor did they wear it,
except for their leader or king who wore as insignia a plaque of
very fine gold hanging from his neck; and we soldiers were much
amused to hear this from the interpreters and we all told each other
that we should come on the Province of Machifaro before that of
Omagua. The name of this settlement was Arimocoa. There were
many savannas or prairies here, i.e., meadows, and on them great
numbers of deer.

1205. We left this settlement at the end of this time, and sailed
2 days downstream, coming on another very large settlement where
they spoke the same language; they had hidden their food and run
away. We went ahead without stopping, having come well provided
from Arimocoa, and although we struck other settlements of little
importance, we did not stop at them. Ten days after leaving the
settlement of Arimocoa, we came on the Province of Machifaro,
which would be composed of more than 10,000 Indians; we disem-
barked here and Gen. Pedro de Ursua pitched his camp. On the
following day, after getting all the soldiers settled in camp—it was
84 (?) days since we had left the Province and Rio de Los Motilones,
where we embarked—he summoned Capt. Sancho Pizarro and
appointed him head of an expedition of 30 soldiers to go exploring
inland under commission from the Governor. And so within 1 hour
we were got ready and started out with Sancho Pizarro; I am telling

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 413

the truth, as in all else, for I was one of the 30 soldiers chosen to
go with Capt. Sancho Pizarro under the Governor’s commission.
Accordingly, having left the river and the place where the General
had pitched camp, we came upon some very broad and excellent roads
which were like those of the Incas in Peru, except for the side walls ;
we took the road most traveled and after having gone 4 leagues on it
we struck a tambo or tavern like those of the Incas; in it we found
two Indian women preparing cassava bread and other dishes, and
service Indians for the travelers coming from the Machifaro provinces
and others adjoining inland, to trade with those of other tribes. The
road went straight ahead, entering one gate of the tambo and going
out of the other; the whole neighborhood was thickly settled with
Indians. We took the Indian women and went ahead, following this
road over 30 leagues; every 3 leagues we found tambos of the same
style as the first, and around each of these tambos were fields of
corn and yucca, and other root and field crops for the meals and
provisioning of the traders and travelers who came and went from
the inland provinces to trade with the natives of the Machifaro
provinces and others adjoining; the barter medium was pottery and
fish, which was excellent in Machifaro Province, in exchange for
gold leaf and spirals and other native valuables, according to what
the Indian women gave us to understand. Proceeding farther inland
we kept finding rivers and watercourses of very cold and excellent
water, and many stones in them; and by the indications we saw and
the data the Indian women gave us, we were given to understand that
we were about to come upon the largest settlements that I understand
Christians had ever discovered; the one of the Indian women who
seemed the more intelligent took a handful of sand and gave us to
understand that just as it was impossible to count the grains and the
dust it contained, so it was with the great settlements there were
inland, and that if we went there we could not escape from their
hands since there were so many of them, and that the country was
very prosperous and rich, and had much of that metal which she had,
which was a piece of gold jewelry.

1206. Capt. Sancho Pizarro and all of us were much pleased with
our discoveries and such excellent indications of finding the richest
and most populous country in the world; but he did not dare go
farther ahead inland, for we were only 30 soldiers and we might
get into settlements such that we could not escape from them, not
even one to bear the news; besides, he had no commission for so long
a time, and we were not well provided with sandals; and so we
turned about to return with our captain at the end of the 30 days

414 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

that we had been out from the Province of Machifaro, which was
where we had left our Governor, and we took along with us four of
the Indian women we had found in the tambos, to have them ques-
tioned by the interpreters who had stayed at the camp, and to give
information about what we had seen and discovered to our Governor,
with desire and ambition to return at his request with a larger force.
It was 2 days after Epiphany, in the year 1560; and when we got
to the camp, which was in the Province of Machifaro, we went to
the cabin where we had left our Gov. Pedro de Ursua, to give him
an account of what we had discovered ; but we found him dead, and
Don Juan de Vargas also, his Lieutenant General, and two other
soldiers, and Don Hernando de Guzman chosen General, who had
been Gov. Pedro de Ursua’s Royal Ensign, and Lope de Aguirre
Militia Captain ; he was the one who managed everything despotically
with his treacheries and his accusations ; it was because of the Devil,
who saw that he was on the verge of being deprived of his grasp
on so many and such blind tribes as he held and still holds in those
vast regions; he entered the heart of this rebel traitor, like another
Judas, taking him as his tool for the murder of the General, so that
with his death everything should be upset, as it was upset, and he
should remain in unjust possession, as he had intended. Juan Alonso
de la Bandera was appointed Lieutenant General, and Lorenzo de
Salduendo Captain of the Guard of this Don Hernando de Guzman;
the other important camp offices were divided by the traitor Lope de
Aguirre among the conspirators. They dismissed the Indian women
we had brought, saying that there was no longer any idea of searching
for El Dorado and Omagua.

CHAP. 12 (sic)

Continuing the Description of the Marafon, and the Arbitrary
Acts of Lope de Aguirre.

1207. And so on the next day the rebel ordered us to leave the
Province of Machifaro, and off we went to find another place where
there should be food, and timber to build brigantines ; we had brought
along the horses in them, for the flatboats had gone to the bottom,
most of them. And so within 5 days after leaving the Province of
Machifaro, where the rebel left our murdered Governor, we came
upon another fine settlement of people who were orderly, wore
clothing, and were very intelligent. Here the interpreters told us
that in 10 days’ journey we could reach El Dorado or the Province
of Omagua, where there was more gold and silver than in Peru;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 415

if that was not true, they could kill them; and so Juan Alonso de la
Bandera put them in a bohio, which means house, and told them
to look out and see if what they said was true, for they had kept
saying it up to arriving here; and the interpreters said that if it
was not true, they could kill them. But as soon as Lope de Aguirre
knew that they were discussing exploration, he killed the interpreters,
and arranged to suppress the expeditionary pay we drew under Gen.
Pedro de Ursua; in fact, if anyone talked about exploring, the rebel
tyrant murdered him, without any additional cause.

1208. And so another route was discovered which would be shorter
to the sea; immediately after 4 days of navigation, we came on a
settlement which extended more than 3 leagues, with the houses
touching one another. It was occasionally inundated when the river
came down in flood, covering the country for 200 leagues and over ;
against that season they had other houses built in the trees like
magpies, with everything they needed to be able to live there while
the river is in flood; when it rains in Peru it drowns the country
for over 200 leagues, the land being level. The people were naked ;
there was much food in this settlement, with abundance of cassava,
corn, guamotes or sweet potatoes, yams, and other root crops in
abundance, and much fruit. Since there were plenty of people and
of logs in this settlement, they finished building the brigantines for
the voyage to the sea; and 15 days before they were finished, Lope
de Aguirre with eight Basque companions of his, plotted to murder
Lorenzo de Salduendo, Don Hernando de Guzman’s Captain of the
Guard, on the pretext that he was heading a movement against Don
Hernando de Guzman—an idea that had never entered his head.
And so the rebel Lope de Aguirre left his cabin where he lodged,
with his eight fellow conspirators, saying “Gentlemen and soldiers,
let him who wants to follow me, come along, for there is a great
evil brewing in the camp; they want to kill our leader.’’ And so the
soldiers went along after their tyrannical Militia Captain, and as soon
as they were near the lodgings of Don Hernando de Guzman and
his captains, the Sergeant Major stepped forward, a Basque by the
name of Martin Pérez de Arraudi, and said “Long live Don Fernando
de Guzman, and death to traitors.”’ And at the noise Don Fernando
de Guzman came out of his cabin with his captains to see the Militia
Captain and find out what he wanted or what the uproar was about ;
and Lorenzo de Salduendo came out with him, as his Captain of the
Guard ; and at 8 paces’ distance from this Lope de Aguirre and Don
Fernando de Guzman and Lorenzo de Salduendo, Captain of the
Guard, the Sergeant Major threw the dagger he was holding in his

416 ; SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

hand at the Captain of the Guard and although he was wearing a
coat of mail, it penetrated, and immediately Lope de Aguirre came
up and with a cruel sword thrust cut off his arm. And when Don
Fernando de Guzman saw his Captain of the Guard dead, he said:
“Militia Captain, why have you killed my Captain of the Guard with-
out having given me any reason why you did it?” Lope de Aguirre
answered him: “Lord and master, since I have killed Lorenzo de
Salduendo, who was my own blood relation and son and what I loved
best in this life, Your Excellency should understand that it was
suitable that he should die and that all shall die who harbor a similar
ambition, of killing Your Excellency.” Don Fernando de Guzman
replied to him that that was no reason; that it would have been proper
that as Militia Captain he should have given him, his General, infor-
mation of the crime that his Captain of the Guard proposed to commit,
and that he would give him over to him as Militia Captain if he
deserved punishment for it, so that the soldiers should understand
that this captain deserved to die and not come the way he did,
agitating the army ; that might lead to a barbarous death for everyone.
Lope de Aguirre replied that it was clear that His Excellency had
had little experience in such matters, and that since he had killed
Lorenzo de Salduendo, who was like his own son, His Excellency
should understand that he deserved the death he had given him, for
this Lorenzo de Salduendo had told Dona Inés de Atiensa about
it when he was in bed with her. And so at the time this poor Dona
Inés came to see Don Fernando de Guzman, this rebel Lope de
Aguirre summoned a certain depraved and infamous Antonio
Llamoso, for him to go at once and murder this Dona Inés, which
the criminal soldier did, giving this poor blameless lady several dagger
thrusts, to cover up his arbitrary crimes and treacheries.

1209. Don Fernando de Guzman wanted to kill Lope de Aguirre,
for he knew of his treacheries and cruelties, against which nobody
was secure; but he did not dare to and could not bring himself to
order it done; and a few days later, when they were on the brigan-
tines, which Lope de Aguirre had charge of, Lope de Aguirre began
scheming again, making friends and forming a bodyguard of 20
harquebussiers ; and when Don Fernando de Guzman learned of it,
he sent to have him called, and said to him: “Militia Captain, they
tell me that you have made yourself a bodyguard of harquebussiers.”’
The traitor answered him “They have told Your Excellency the
truth, for if I do not guard myself in order to guard Your Excellency,
who will guard him, since Lorenzo de Salduendo wanted to kill both
Your Excellency and me?” And with this reply he left him and re-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 417

turned to the brigantines and collected all the munitions there were,
almost 100 bars of lead each weighing 2 arrobas, 80 jars of refined salt-
peter and the same of sulfur; and this inhuman traitor secretly con-
spired with his confederates to murder Don Fernando de Guzman and
his captains ; and so he did, and carried it out 5 days after the above
conversation. The brigantines were ready to sail, a day before our
scheduled departure from this settlement, and also because we could
no longer stay there, the river having flooded it, as it was level and
low, and the river in flood for 200 leagues. So the despotic traitor
decided that that very night, at a quarter before the first watch, to
go where Capt. Diego de Montoya and Admiral Miguel Bovedo and
two other ensigns and other soldiers were quartered, on the bank
of an inlet, from and to which there was no access to the Militia
Captain’s quarters except by canoe; Gen. Don Fernando de Guzman
with the other captains and soldiers were quartered on the bank of
another inlet. The tyrant posted four harquebussiers at each of
these inlets, to guard the passage and if any soldiers wanted to cross
from one bank to the other, to seize them secretly and take them
to the brigantines.

CHAPTER XIII

Continuing the Preceding Recital; and the Death of Don Fernando
de Guzman.

1210. Of this enterprise of undertaking to murder Don Hernando
de Guzman, he breathed no word to anyone, nor did he confide in
anybody except his confederates and himself; but he gave the rest
to understand that Capt. Miguel Serrano de Caceres and Capt. Diego
de Montoya and Admiral Miguel Bovedo and Gonzalo de Ugarte
and other soldiers intended to murder Gen. Don Hernando de Guzman
and the rebel Lope de Aguirre himself, and make one of themselves
General, and rebel with the fleet ; and with his slanders he persuaded
over 50 soldiers that this was so, for the traitor was a very shrewd
and scheming person. After these falsehoods, he set out at a quarter
before the first watch and murdered Capt. Diego de Montoya and
five other soldiers, and returned to the brigantines, without the
possibility of any word getting to Gen. Hernando de Guzman, since
he had all the passage points held as has been described. And at
a quarter before the dawn watch he set out with 40 harquebussiers
and went to the cabin where Gen. Don Hernando de Guzman was,
instructing them to guard and respect the person of Don Hernando
de Guzman, since he was our leader and lord; but he himself went

28

418 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in with five of his companions and friends in his cruel and treacherous
deeds, all of them Basques; he told them that now that the captains
and several others whom he had ordered murdered, were dead,
including Father Alonso de Henao, the priest who was chaplain of
the expedition and to whom they made confession, they should do
away with Don Hernando de Guzman, and so they did, these sacri-
legious rebels. And having murdered all these persons, he went and
retired to the brigantines with his confederates, now over 80 harque-
bussiers, and immediately had a proclamation published in which he
ordered everybody to come and embark ; he who would not, could stay.
And he assembled all the camp and made them a speech, saying that
if they had killed Don Hernando de Guzman and the others, it was
because they had intended to murder him and his friends and start
a rebellion with the fleet; that Don Hernando was young and with
too little experience for an enterprise of such calibre and importance,
and as for another of his disposition, Don Sebastian, he saw that
he was lost ; and he meant never to see himself again in such a critical
position as that in which he had just seen himself. So he went on
board, and when they were all on the brigantines, he started navigating
his route downstream; he appointed new Captains, Ensigns, Militia
Captain, and Sergeant Major. He followed his course 12 days
without landing day or night, although passing in sight of numerous
settlements; but then we came on a large settlement, where it was
necessary to land to get food and some refreshment which we needed ;
and there this cruel rebel again started murdering, killing all the
captains he had appointed, and the Sergeant Major, stating that they
were organizing and carrying out a plot against him; and he mur-
dered also a Knight of the Order of St. John, by name Don Juan
de Guevara, a native of Murcia, and three other soldiers; it would
have been better if they had killed him, as many wanted to do but
did not dare accomplish ; for God so allowed it, in order that he might
be the executioner of them all.

CHAPTER XIV

Continuing the Previous Narration, with Other Cruel Deeds of
the Rebel.

1211. We left this settlement where he had perpetrated all these
murders and sailed for 10 days more without the tyrant allowing us
to land; and at the end of the 10 days we came on the first Carib
settlements, where the Indians killed two soldiers, because the plant
with which they anointed their arrows was such deadly poison that

a

WHOLE’ VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 419

a wounded man did not last half an hour; and the rebel Lope de
Aguirre killed three soldiers besides. After leaving this settlement
we continued downstream 12 days and then came upon another settle-
ment of these same Caribs. At this point since there were great
storms on the river, which raised huge waves, and there were too
many people in the brigantines, still the cruel rebel would not stop
to have another built, although the pilots kept telling and advising
him to do so, saying that with so many people on board, if they put
out to sea they would perish, and so they should stop off and build
another. But he did not like his pilots’ advice, because he did not
want his soldiers distributed in too many places; so he cleared out the
brigantines by putting ashore among those cruel cannibal Caribs
over 170 Indian men and women of those we had brought along from
Peru for our service, all of them Christians. On this occasion I
cannot tell or reproduce the violent reproaches which the Indian men
and women uttered and expressed ; weeping each cried to his master
“Ts this the reward that you give me for the 5, 6, or 10 years I have
served you in such and such’a battle and in so many wildernesses
and expanses of Peru, searching for the food for you to eat and
leaving my birthplace and my home to serve you?” and other laments
to break one’s heart ; two or three soldiers interpreted their Indians’
sentiments, and the rebel Lope de Aguirre ordered them garroted
immediately ; so everyone pretended to be satisfied, although he felt
otherwise, for it was a life and death matter.

1212. After leaving this settlement, where those poor Christian
Peruvian Indians remained for the cannibal feasts of the Caribs in
consequence of the rebel’s inhumanity, within 6 days we recognized
the ocean tide, which runs over 300 leagues up the river. In a settle-
ment there we put the brigantines in condition to navigate at sea;
for cordage and sails, we used the blankets left by the Indians, and
whoever had two shirts tried to give one of them. At this settlement
the inhuman butcher murdered Juan Lopez Serrato and Monteverde
and Juan de Cabanas. After leaving this settlement we felt the tide
more every day; from the time we first recognized the tide till we
sailed out of the river into the ocean, it took 28 days, for a number
of times the tide threw us back on the full all we had gained on the
ebb. This river is over 60 leagues wide; but it does not have many
arms, as some assert; I stifled my resentment at such tyranny as his,
and observed and noted with particular care. It has over 3,000 islands,
and if the brigantines we sailed had not drawn so little water—for
they needed only a little over a palm of water, and even so we touched
a number of times, and we would jump out into the river and push

420 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the boat free—certainly it was great compassion that God showed
to us, those of us who came off alive from such a dreadful den, with
such cruelties and tyrannies.

1213. Two days after putting out to sea we were still drinking
fresh water from the river; and after 16 days we made Margarita
and we went and made port 3 leagues below the port of Margarita.
And as soon as the people on shore made us out, they sent word
to the city, saying that we were French because as we were rowing
and our sails were made out of the Peruvian Indian women’s blankets,
they could not imagine what we might be if not French, although
we were still worse for them than if we had been French. And so
we beached the brigantines on shore, for they were of no further
use, for they were in a sinking condition. That would have been
about 4 in the afternoon, festival of the Magdalen ; and about an hour
later a man arrived from Margarita to see and find out who the
people were, coming in those brigantines ; and he came to the brigan-
tine of the rebel Lope de Aguirre and told him he had come com-
missioned by the Governor to learn and find out what nationality
they were. Lope de Aguirre answered him, saying that they were
soldiers, that they had left the Kingdoms of Peru with Gov. Pedro
de Ursua to explore the Rio Maranon and the Provinces of El Dorado
and Omagua, and that the Governor had died on that river and so
it was necessary that they should go and give word and information
to the Viceroy and Circuit Court of Peru how Gov. Pedro de Ursua
had died, and give an account of the country that they had explored
and of what had taken place there and that they had been through
great extremes of hunger and illness before arriving there, and that
what they wanted from that country was food and nothing else, for
they had at once to get ready to go to Nombre de Dios on their way
to render their account in the Kingdoms of Peru, and that although
they were poor travelers, nevertheless they possessed some gold and
silver sufficient to pay for what they needed there; and so Lope de
Aguirre took out a gold cup which had belonged to that poor little
creature, Dona Inés de Atiensa, and a silver pitcher and a scarlet
cloak with much gold trimming, and gave it to this man for himself,
and so he went off at once to the city of Margarita to bring the news,
saying that they were Spaniards and that they came from the King-
doms of Peru, that they had set out with a Governor to explore the
Rio Marafion, and that he had died, and that they had made port
there after great trials, sick and famished, and that they had no
intention of staying long in that country, but wanted to rest 5 or 6
days and satisfy their hunger.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 421

CHAPTER XV

Of What the Traitor Did in Margarita.

1214. That night Lope de Aguirre had all the people get out on
the beach, for them all to sleep there, and he issued special orders
that no one was to stir, not even to make water, for if they stirred
one step he would kill them, and so he and some 50 of his guard with
harquebusses and daggers kept watching us; and when the dawn
watch came, he took his soldiers and men back to the brigantines ;
and when it was 2 hours after daybreak the Governor of Margarita
arrived, Don Juan de Villandrando, and the Alcaldes and Alguacil
Mayor and other leading citizens to see Lope de Aguirre and his
people to escort them to the city and present them with what they had.
As soon as the Governor and the other citizens had arrived, he went
up on the brigantines. Lope de Aguirre had all the harquebussiers
below decks with their guns loaded and ready. The Governor inquired
who was the commander of those gentlemen who were there; the
rebel Lope de Aguirre came up to the Governor, knelt before him,
and taking his hands told him that he was the commander chosen
by all those gentlemen who had left Peru with Gov. Pedro de Ursua
to explore the Rio Marafion and Provinces of El Dorado, and that
Gov. Pedro de Ursua had died on that river, and that he must give
an account of what had been discovered and observed in that country,
to the Viceroy, Marqués de Caiete, who was then Viceroy of the
Kingdoms of Peru, and that all he asked of that country was food,
which was what he needed most, and that in any case he had the
wherewithal to pay for it. The Governor replied that his visit and
that of all those gentlemen was solely to escort them to the city and
put them up there and set what they had at their service, and so
he took Lope de Aguirre as his guest. And Lope de Aguirre kissed
his hands for this favor and at once said: “Gentlemen, take your
harquebusses and fire a salvo for the Governor and these gentlemen.”
And so they all took out their harquebusses; they would be 200 in
number, for as for their companions among the 370, the tyrant had
murdered and disposed of 100 on the occasions mentioned, after
having murdered the Governor at Epiphany ; and this inhuman crea-
ture had also murdered and disposed of the 500 Negroes and Indians
of the service contingent, cruelly killing many of them and leaving
170 at the mercy of the Caribs. And so they fired a fine salvo for
the Governor and the other residents, of all the harquebusses; and
as soon as they had fired the salvo, they all reloaded with powder and
shot, for such were the tyrant’s orders, as will be told in the following
chapter.

422 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XVI

Of the Cruelties Perpetrated by the Traitor in Margarita.

1215. As soon as they had reloaded, the traitor Aguirre stood up
in the midst of the brigantines and came up to the Governor and said:
“Governor, there is no reason why I should conceal anything from
you in connection with these matters, for you should have a clear
conception of them. We left the Kingdoms of Peru with Gov. Pedro
de Ursua to explore the Marafion and provinces of El Dorado; but
we killed him, for so it was fitting ; we did not want to work for the
King, who does not reward the man who serves him, but sends us
out judges who oppress us; how I should have liked to catch in my
jurisdiction some of these loose-robed scoundrels, to chastise them
for the evils and injustices they inflict on everybody. For this and
other reasons we have risen and rebelled against the service of His
Majesty ; perhaps he has the inheritance of our father Adam, which
forces us to serve him. I shall write this to him so that after this
example he will be more careful to reward those who serve him and
look at the judges he sends out; and we are not sorry or regretful,
nor shall we be while life is in us, that we have risen and rebelled
against the service of the King; perhaps he is more than just a man
like us established in that dignity, and perhaps with less title and
effort than in our case.” And having said this, he laid hands on the
Governor, and said to him: “Governor, it is inevitable that Your
Worship should be my prisoner, and these gentlemen who have come
with you, until I, with my own hand and my companions, take and
provide ourselves with what we need that is available in this island
and city.” And so they took them all prisoners and he ordered the
Militia Captain at once to go with 80 harquebussiers and take the city.
And so the Militia Captain went immediately and took possession of
the city and the fortress, and Lope de Vega and the rest of the army
at once took the Governor and the other citizens prisoners. And
the rebel asked the Governor what ships he had in the harbor, and
if there was someone about who would tell the truth, for if he did
not, he would die. The Governor told the truth, that there were only
two small boats anchored in the harbor, which were engaged in the
corn and fish trade; but 9 leagues from there there was a 200-ton
ship belonging to Fray Francisco Montesinos, the Dominican Pro-
vincial, who was converting by religious instruction some Indians
down there in Maracapana. And when the tyrant heard this he was
much pleased about the ship, for it was good for his projected
expedition; and he immediately appointed Capt. Diego de Mongiia

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 423

to go with 17 harquebussiers and capture this Fray Francisco Monte-
sinos’ ship, and told him to kill the friar and cut off his head and
pull off his skin to make a drum with, to see if a drum or box with
a friar’s skin would bring him good luck. And so with these orders
Capt. Diego de Mongitia with his 17 harquebussiers set out at once
in a boat belonging to a resident of Margarita by name Niebla in
which he went along the coast bartering and trading, and a Negro
pilot of this Niebla, who knew where this friar was. And at the
close of a day and a half’s navigation on the sea, God inspired him
and his soldiers, as they reflected on the rebel’s cruelties, evil deeds,
and treacheries ; and so they hoisted His Majesty’s banner and went
on to notify Fray Francisco Montesinos, and came to where his
ship was, and could have taken it if they had kept the same evil
intentions with which they had started out, for there was no resistance
whatever in it; all they found was two cabin boys stretched out on
the beach and two friars, companions of the Provincial. And they
told them how they had been sent by the rebel Lope de Aguirre to
seize that ship, and that the rebel was staying at Margarita and that
he had sent them in his place, for them to murder Fray Francisco
Montesinos, since he needed the ship to sail immediately for Nombre
de Dids and travel from there to the Kingdoms of Peru; he was
staying there with 200 harquebussiers (Marg.: plus 7o soldiers)
having captured the city and taken possession of it; and so we have
gone over to the service of His Majesty to bring word inland for the
Father Provincial Fray Francisco Montesinos to go out and get
people together and prepare to go to the mainland from there, so
that they might learn of the rebel’s cruelties and treacheries, and how
he had captured Margarita, so that they might make preparations
and take up arms to defend their country, for he was the most cruel
monster that ever mother bore. They sent the Provincial word at
once; he was 2 leagues inland but he came quickly and embraced
them all and put on his vestments and said Mass and distributed
the Consecrated Host among them all, giving them communion, and
took their oath on the consecrated altar that that was the truth, what
they had said and what they had done; and they said it was, for they
were not accustomed to tell lies but the truth in a matter to which
they attributed so much importance; and that accordingly they ren-
dered obedience to him in the name of His Majesty and his Royal
Judges and in his name, that he should give them what was necessary
so that they could go to give warning to the mainland and the other
settlements on the island.

424 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1216. On learning of the rebel, the Provincial decided to go to
Santo Domingo to bring word to the Circuit Court, so that a force
might be sent against him; and he thought that on the way it would
be opportune for him to anchor within sight of Margarita, so that
some of the rebel’s soldiers might join him. But the soldiers told
him to do no such thing; that the soldiers with the rebel Lope de
Aguirre were very stubborn and would not oppose the rebel’s will,
nor would they wish to do so. The Provincial held to his proposal
and came in sight of Margarita and anchored in its harbor and began
firing his cannon at the rebel and shooting Lombardy guns; and he
came out with all his force and banners flying, and began firing at
him with the harquebusses, and shooting from the fortress with
Lombardy guns. And as this cruel and inhuman rebel was not sated
with murdering people, he went out of the camp, leaving his Militia
Captain with his force, and came to the city and had the poor Gover-
nor of Margarita garroted, and the Alcaldes and Alguacil Mayor,
and six other residents of this city and island, and two of the leading
women; and the friar hoisted sail and went off to Santo Domingo
to give word to the Circuit Court. And the rebel Lope de Aguirre,
after having vented his cruelty, wishing to get away from there
before they should descend upon him, found it necessary to build a
ship again in order to leave [there]. It took 28 days to build it;
in that period he killed 13 more soldiers, and he put placards on
many of them, saying they were servants of the King, and on others,
saying they were useless and unprofitable. And after seeing that his
own men had been involved in depriving him of the ship, and that
the whole coast was roused, and that two ships of the fleet which
he had information were coming, might sink him, he decided to leave
for Borburata, 7 leagues from Nueva Valencia (Marg.: in the
Province of Venezuela), and the first port on the mainland, and so
he embarked with his troop in the ship he had built. I had kept
myself hidden in a farmhouse in order to see myself rid of the tyrant ;
it was a miracle I did not get caught, for it is certain he would have
showed me no more mercy than the others. The moment I saw his
ship put up sail, I came out as if I had been born that very day,
giving thanks to God that I was free of the tyrant and out of his
clutches after all these trials ; and poverty-stricken as I was, I exulted.
He left the city and island of Margarita in ruins, and plundered
the widows in their lamentations ; it would take a long time to recount
their misfortunes. He went off with his crew, stubborn though already
quarreling and discontented; and he anchored in the harbor of Bor-
burata, where they began to disintegrate, [each man starting out for

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 425

himself ; with the majority he went inland, as is told in other place]
chapters [of other books] of the book treating of the district of the
New Kingdom of Granada, since it happened that that was the region
‘where a force was raised against the rebel.

CHAPTER XVII

Of the Valleys Lying between the Town of Santa up to the City
of Lima, Belonging to the District of Its Archdiocese.

1217. The town of Santa, which is the farthest N. in the Arch-
diocese of Lima, lies 18 leagues S. of Trujillo and on the edge of
the Diocese of Trujillo. The town is built in a fine large valley in
9° S. They raise quantities of corn, wheat, pallares, kidney beans,
and other cereals and vegetables and fruit—grapes, melons, cucum-
bers, bananas; there is plenty of everything. There will be in this
town 100 Spanish residents and a few Indians, for they have fallen
off, as everywhere. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor here to dis-
pense justice and provide good administration. Many ships come to
its port to load local products—wheat, corn, and other cereals—both
for Lima and the Spanish Main. There is a parish church here and
a Franciscan convent.

1218. The Archdiocese of Lima is divided from the Diocese of
Trujillo by the large Rio de Santa, part of whose sources lie in the
Province of Cajatambo and in the mountain ranges near Recuay ;
it runs from S. to N. in the Huailas Valley, at the end of which it
becomes more imposing by the addition of another river which rises
in the snow-clad sierras near the Siguas mines; and running W.
through the Province of Conchucos, it separates the Archdiocese from
the Diocese of Trujillo through the sierra. Since this river
is so huge and rapid, there is no bridge over it; it is crossed
on rafts of gourds netted together, which serve as boats; the Indians
swim beside them and steer the rafts with the travelers and merchan-
dise on them. This famous valley in the days of the Indians’ heathen-
dom was thickly populated, as is proved today by the ruins of their
ancient buildings standing there, and the many large guacas to be
seen at present. These were their tombs, in which when they died
they buried together with the dead all their wealth in gold and silver
and the other valuables they possessed, and also food and chicha,
which was and is the usual beverage of the Indians of that kingdom ;
they made and make it in many ways, as will be described in the
following paragraph.

420 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1219. The Indians make their beverages in many ways in the Indies,
and especially in the Kingdom of Peru from corn and the molleberry,
which resembles that of the mastic tree in Spain. In the Kingdom
of Chile they make it from another small fruit growing on low trees ;
both tree and berry are like our myrtle; but this is the best beverage
of them all; it can vie with grape wine in color and flavor ; it is of an
excellent golden color and its flavor sweet and pleasant. The Chileans
make it with great care and neatness, as we do; it does not intoxicate,
clears up harmful humors, cheers the heart, warms the stomach, and
is excellent for the digestion.

What they make from corn, which is the grain of the Indies, is
prepared in many ways. The usual sort is called jora or azta; this
causes much drunkenness among the Indians and is a cloudy liquor.
To make it, they put the corn to soak and then wrap it up in some
matting or other covering and leave it some days until it has all
sprouted ; then they mash it very fine and let boiling water percolate
through the mass, and put it in their jars, jugs, or vessels until it
bubbles up like wine at the end of 2 days; and as soon as it has
effervesced it acquires a pungent taste and they drink it and use it
for their drinking bouts; when they build or plant, they make a
quantity, and give a ducking to all their relatives and friends, which
is the same as inviting them to the work and the celebration, and
so they carry out both operations, with a formal dance, festival, and
drinking bout.

1220. For the making of another kind, the old Indian women, the
boys, and as many as are available for it, chew the corn, which makes
a very loathsome liquor; it is to hurry it up and make it stronger ;
the process is the same as with the other. Another sort is made from
parched corn; this is the best tasting and clearest, made by parching
the corn; it is an excellent drink, healthful and refreshing; it has
almost the taste of good mead. The molle beverage is made like the
other; many people make a business of it and put up branches at
their doors so that the Indians will come to buy it. There is much
abuse in this, through their desire for gain, and many sins follow
it, as I wrote in my book “Luz y Guia del Cielo” (Light and Guide
to Heaven) on the seventh commandment, which I printed in the
year 1623.

1221. From the town of Santa it is 70 leagues to Lima, and in
the tract between along the seacoast on the plains there are other
fertile valleys, such as Huambacho, Upper and Lower Casma, Huar-
mey, and La Barranca. These are all fertile and prolific; they raise
quantities of wheat, corn, peanuts, pallares, kidney beans, chickpeas,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 427

and other vegetables and cereals, both of Spanish and native varieties ;
there are good sugar plantations, vineyards, olive groves; they grow
excellent melons and native cucumbers, which is a delicious fruit,
and other products, which are all shipped in boats for the Lima trade.

1222. Through the Barranca Valley runs another large and rapid
river, equal to the Rio de Santa. This has its rise to the E. in the
Provinces of Cajatambo and Canta. Beyond this valley one follows
the famous Huaura Valley, in which a town of Spaniards has been
established ; the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor to administer justice
here. This valley like the others is very productive of wheat and
corn, with the other cereals and vegetables of Spanish and native
varieties ; there are some sugar plantations, vineyards, and some olive
groves.

1223. To the S., 9 leagues before reaching Lima, is the fertile and
beautiful Chancay Valley, in which a[nother] Spanish town has been
established, with some Indians. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor
here for its good administration. It has vineyards, and some large
farms and estates of Lima residents. They raise quantities of wheat,
corn, peanuts, pallares, large beans, and all the other cereals and
garden crops of Spanish and native varieties.

CHAPTER XVIII

Of the Great City of Los Reyes (The Kings), Known as Lima,
and the District of Its Archdiocese.

1224. The town of Santa is 18 leagues from Trujillo to the S.;
that is the farthest point of the Archdiocese and city of Lima or
Los Reyes. It is so called because of the date of its founding by
[the Marqués] Don Francisco Pizarro, (Marg.: first with no second,
Knight of the Order of Santiago, whose valor and heroic deeds have
never been sufficiently praised;) he founded it in the Rimac Valley
on the day of The Kings (Epiphany) in the year 1533. It is 90
leagues S. of Trujillo, in 12° S., 2 leagues from the sea. It is built
on the banks and borders of its river which runs from E. to W. and
passes through the northern part of the city. It is built in the valley
in fertile level country, attractive and with pleasant and delightful
scenery, thanks to the numerous irrigation canals which they take
from up the river and which fertilize all the valley. From these
canals branch off smaller ones, two for each city block, which cleanse
all the city and water its farms, orchards, and gardens; most of the
houses possess gardens, and they have them along all the avenues

428 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

leading out of the city, which make it a very attractive place; they
are delightful, with abundance of delicious native and Spanish fruit.

1225. This famous city enjoys three springs. The first is its valley’s
spring, which begins in October and lasts till Easter, and for this
reason it enjoys the richest Lent in fruit, vegetables, delicacies, and
fish, in the world; the second is the sierra spring, at 8 or 9 leagues
from the city; and the third is the spring in another intermediate
region lying between the sierra and the plains, which is called in that
Kingdom in the native tongue Chaupiyunga, which means country
between cold and hot; so that this city is deliciously supplied the
whole year through with excellent fruit, both of native and Spanish
varieties ; there is abundance of them all.

1226. The city is a thickly settled capital and metropolis of the
Kingdoms of Peru, and residence of the Viceroy, Circuit Court,
Archbishop, and the Inquisition, which was founded at the same time
with that in Mexico, the Inquisitor General being Cardinal Don
Diego de Espinosa, Bishop of Sigtenza. The city will have between
9,000 and 10,000 Spanish residents, not counting the transients who
come here from all the Upper Kingdom, that of Quito and the New
Kingdom of Granada, from the Spanish Main, New Spain, Nicaragua,
the Kingdom of Chile, and other points; and without counting over
50,000 Negroes, mulattoes, and others of the service class, plus great
numbers of Indians, both natives of that region and others from all
over the Kingdom; many of them are artisans of all sorts of profes-
sions ; they live in the outer wards of the city, and all over it.

1227. It occupies the area of a large and populous city, marvelously
laid out. At present it is 25 blocks wide, from the Convent of
Monserrate through the city by the Plaza and Calle de la Inquisicion
up to El Cercado, and every day there are additional buildings, houses,
and streets. In width it covers over 14 blocks, from by San Francisco
to Guadalupe. All the modern streets and blocks are rectangular
and rectilinear ; each street is 40 geometric feet wide, and each block
400, and 6,160 in width, and from these figures it is 176,000 feet
in circuit. All the houses have generous plots and most of them have
fountains and gardens; and although the city has fine buildings, since
it does not rain the roofs are not tiled but flat.

1228. It has four plazas—the Plaza Principal, that of Santa Ana,
San Francisco, and San Diego. The Plaza Principal has a fine foun-
tain in the center ; this plaza is level and square; each side is 440 feet
long, and two straight streets start at each; there is one block by the
river and bridge, which is expensive and solidly built of cut stone, on
account of the collapse of the old building in brick, which the Marqués

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 429

Viejo de Camnete had erected in his time; it was reconstructed by
authority of the Marqués de Montesclaros, Viceroy and Governor
General of those Kingdoms.

1229. At the first corner of the plaza, to the E., are the Palace
and the Royal Apartments, where the Viceroy lives. These are
adorned with elaborate fenestration in cut brick and with splendid
galleries ; here are the halls of the Chancery, two for the Judges and
one for the Alcaldes dealing with crime, the Tribunal Hall (Sala de
Acuerdo), another for the Chief Auditor’s Office (Contaduria
Mayor), the Royal Treasury, the Death Record Chamber (Sala de
Difuntos), and that of the Indian Tax Office (Censos de los Indios) ;
the Paymaster’s Office, Factor’s Office, and Treasurer’s Office, and
the Consulate Hall; all these apartments are elaborately and expen-
sively decorated.

1230. This Chancery exercises great authority; the Viceroy pre-
sides over it, and in his absence its President administers the govern-
ment himself for the whole Kingdom and attends to the carrying out
of individual royal warrants. This post of Viceroy is so exalted and
majestic that it might be held by an Infante of Spain, were it a life
position; for every year he appoints to over 70 Corregimientos,
plus an infinite number of offices, the administrations of Indian
communal affairs, the Royal Treasury, naval and military judges,
mill inspectors, with authority equal to the King’s. He has a guard
of halberdiers and is accompanied by the city’s nobility whenever
he goes out. In church his eminent position is indicated by his bro-
caded seat of honor on a great rug in the center of the main chapel ;
at its sides are seated the members of the Chancery in high-backed
chairs, the City Council on benches, the chief functionaries of the
Palace, and the Chaplain Major of the Royal Chapel, who comes
to hear his confession; and the Deacon comes down from the altar
accompanied by the Verger and his ministers, to give him the Gospels
to kiss, to incense him as one does the King, and give him the kiss
of peace. And the whole Kingdom flocks to see him as they would
for the King he represents, and thus the city grows in numbers and
extent.

1231. At the other corner, opposite the Iglesia Mayor (Cathedral),
which is to the N., rise the apartments of the Council with the
Secretaries’ offices. This building has handsome corridors and gal-
leries. This side and the third, which is on the W., opposite the
Palace, are built up with porticos with stone columns and Doric
capitals and brick arches, with elaborate brickwork fenestration above

430 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

them. This plaza is a gay sight on festival days, for the square is
beautiful, so full of fine window work and rich ornamentation.

CHAPTER XIX

Continuing the Description of the Grandeur of This Remarkable
City.

1232. The Council of this city possesses much authority, for on
New Year’s Day it elects two ordinary Alcaldes and one for the
Hermandad, another for the water supply, an Attorney General
(Procurador General) and a Superintendent (Mayordomo) ; it has
no Corregidor such as Mexico and other cities have, and so its
authority is greater. It administers the function of Inspectors of
Weights and Measures (Fieles Ejecutores), two of the Aldermen
(Regidores) taking the staff of office each month, and it likewise
exercises the privilege of the Alferazgo Real (of the Royal Banner) ;
each year in turn one of the aldermen is elected to take out the royal
standard at Epiphany.

1233. The third side, on the W., opposite the Palace side, is built
up with porticos supported by stone pillars with Doric bases and
capitals and with much fenestration; they are occupied by shop-
keepers, hatmakers and silkworkers.

1234. The fourth side, on the S., is that of the Cathedral, which
terminates in the Archbishop’s residence. This basilica is Metro-
politan for the whole Kingdom of Peru. It is oriented N. and S.
and has three doors on the Plaza, the Gate of Pardon and the two
side entrances. Its architecture is marvelous, with Gothic vaults
supported by Ionic columns; it has five naves, three of them clear,
corresponding to the three doors on the Plaza; the other two with
(blank) chapels of the same order and excellent architecture. It is
over 300 feet long and 150 broad, with two towers at the corners
on the Plaza side, that of the three doors ; the clock tower has a large
number of bells; the largest weighs 110 quintals, and the clock bell
is very large.

1235. It has other doors: two above the main chapel (Capilla
Mayor) and two others connecting with the cymborium, or intra-
choral space. The high altar is placed as it is in the Cathedral (Iglesia
Mayor) of Granada, visible along the nave, which runs back from
it, and from all parts of the church. And although it is a recent
foundation, not only in that the time is so short since the city was
founded, but because it is only a few years since its construction was
finished, under the administrations of the Marqués de Montesclaros
and the Marqués de Guadalcazar, yet it has many chapels, most of

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them very fine, like that of Archbishop Don Bartolomé Lobo Guerrero
of happy memory ; this is at the upper end, corresponding to the high
altar, like that of the Kings in Seville. There is another on the Gospel
side in the transept between the two choirs, sacred to His Majesty,
for the burial of Viceroys, Counsellors, Chief Paymasters, Royal
Officials and Ministers of the King. Others have been assigned to
leading noblemen, for His Majesty has so ordained, that some should
be brilliantly decorated with altarpieces and should have chaplaincies,
notably the one which stands out in every respect, altarpieces, decora-
mon, etc. + this 1s the chapel of Capt. Hernando de Santa Cruz y.
Padilla.

1236. There have been six prelates in this sainted church, from
its foundation up to the time at which I write this book. The first was
Bishop Santillan, who was Bishop of all Peru. He was followed by
that most judicious man, Fray Jeronimo de Loaysa, who established
the fine hospital for Indian natives of Santa Ana. He was succeeded
by the sainted Archbishop Don Toribio Alfonso Mogrovejo, who
was zealous for the honor of God and the good of souls; he was a
great worker in seeking out and visiting his sheep, and for love of
them he was constantly absent from his church. He celebrated a
Council in the year 1583, at which were present all the Bishops and
prelates of Peru, Chile, Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres, the
Spanish Main, Quito, and Nicaragua; he presided, and they adopted
many blessed statutes in that new church, for the good of souls and
for their consolation. He died like a saint in the town of Safia and
left to enjoy the reward of his labors, amid universal sorrow; he had
directed his church in saintly fashion for 28 years. This sainted
prelate was followed by that mildest of men, Don Bartolomé Lobo
(Wolf) Guerrero (Warrior) by name, but an angel in appearance
and character; he had an agreeable and most placid disposition, and
his kindliness made his administration beloved. His successor was
Don Gonzalo de Ocampo, a hard taskmaster for his ecclesiastics and
not so popular ; he lived only a short time.

1237. Today the occupant of the see is that most worthy man,
Don Fernando Arias Ugarte. His virtue and fervor in the service
of God and his good example of his life during early years led to
his becoming Circuit Judge in the Charcas, and then at Lima; and
after holding other posts, he was elected Bishop of Quito, then Arch-
bishop of the New Kingdom of Granada—his own home, fortunate
to have such a son—and then Archbishop of the Charcas; at present
he is Archbishop of Lima, and may God grant him many years’
incumbency for His holy service.

432 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XX

Continuing the Description of the City of Lima and of Its Holy
Metropolitan Church.

1238. This holy church has five ranks of dignitaries: eight Canons,
six Prebendaries (Racioneros), six half-time Prebendaries, six Chap-
lains, and other ministers and functionaries, the whole with sufficient
income for their support. Besides these they have many chaplaincies
and sing Masses for the Confraternities and in especial for the Most
Holy Sacrament and for souls in Purgatory; in regard to this, there
was one year in which they said 16,000 Masses, at 8 silver reals each,
the only currency they have; for the Masses are innumerable that
are said in this holy church for the benefit of blessed souls.

1239. Services are held with great majesty and authority, by
priests of distinction, for in their chapter they have men who are
remarkable in letters, as professors and pulpit orators; in fact, His
Majesty has selected many Bishops from among them, as from a
nursery or plantation. Since this holy church is so large, it has four
curates with benefices, who, with the minor chapter, serve the
ciborium chapel, which has a remarkable altarpiece and decoration,
and also the Confraternity of the Most Holy Sacrament, which is
very rich; and since this is a matter of great piety, I would state
that in few centers of Christendom the Most Holy Sacrament comes
forth so well escorted, both by the priests (who carry crucifix wands
and maces, and wear pelisses and stoles with the insignia; they give
them 2 reals each time they attend, and they serve this holy church
with the 300 priests under obligation) and by people in general ; the
Confraternity supplies the candles and everything, and there is great
attendance and devotion on everyone’s part, at whatever hour of day
or night they set out, with the ministrils (tipstaffs) and flageolet
players (chirimias).

1240. Connected with this holy Confraternity is that of the slaves ;
on the first Sunday of each month they celebrate their holy day in
the presence of the Viceroy, the Circuit Court, and the city’s nobility,
with sermons by the best preachers, music, and a procession with
many candles through the naves of the church; it should serve as a
stimulus to devout communities, for their devotion to the Holy Sacra-
ment is admirable. Outside of this Cathedral, in all the convents of
friars and nuns, not only is a most solemn Mass said every Thursday
with many candles and much music, but on certain Sundays of each
month, now in one part of the city, now in another. But the most
admirable is the celebration of the Holy Sacrament and the octaves

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of Corpus Christi; almost all the churches and sanctuaries stage most
formal processions in competition through the streets, embellished
with tapestries and curious wealth of ornament, in rivalry with the
Cathedral, where the City Council displays its piety and religious
sentiment on the same day and during the octave, with sacred plays
most sumptuously presented outside the church on the whole stretch
of the perron along the church; it is a great spectacle to see the
arrangement of the seats provided for the Viceroy, Circuit Court,
Councils, University, religious orders, and noblemen, to see the sacred
play.

1241. Beyond all else, the magnificence displayed during those
8 days by every sanctuary rouses admiration, from the first of all,
the Cathedral, to the least in the farthest outer ward, where all day
long the Most Holy Sacrament is exposed under the magnificence
of much white wax in 24 4-wick tapers with over 80 I-pound candles
burning above them; the devout parishioners of every sanctuary, each
one commissioned for one day of the festival, vie one with another
in the lavish use of amber and other perfumes, silver trays, flower
boys, and a thousand other gewgaws with which they dress all the
altars and chief chapels, which become a starry heaven of light, or a
flowery spring.

1242. Besides the four curates who serve in the Cathedral, they
have others, substitutes, in the new Triana (suburb) which is the
ward of San Lazaro, a crowded village, quite like the Triana of
Seville, but which, being new, is not so well enriched with sanctu-
aries; and there is another for the Orphan Asylum; these remote
points could not otherwise be easily reached for the administration
of the Holy Sacraments.

1243. The parish has grown very rapidly in the number of the
faithful, and consequently has other curates in San Marcelo and San
Sebastian ; between them the whole locality is parceled out and they
all have their Angelus Chapels with their congregations ; and so one
must give thanks to God for the pious sacrifices offered for the souls
in Purgatory. In fact, with its celebration of the Most Holy Sacra-
ment and of the Immaculate Conception, this devoted city seems to
have outdone its possibilities. Besides these parishes it has other
sanctuaries with miraculous images, like that of Nuestra Sefiora de
Copacabana in the Alameda quarter, Nuestra Senora del Prado over
by El Cercado, Nuestra Senora de la Cabeza in Malambo, and Nuestra
Senora de Monserrate, where two Benedictine friars are always in
attendance.

29

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CHAPTER XXI

Continuing the Description of Lima; and of the Remarkable Con-
vents It Contains.

1244, This famous city has remarkable Dominican, Franciscan,
Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents. The Dominican is
sumptuous, with a building and cloisters of admirable architecture ;
the apartments over the cloisters each has its fountain in the center ;
the first contains excellent paintings with the life of the Patriarch
St. Dominick from the brush of Francisco Pacheco, famous painter
of Seville, and portraits of saints by that great master of painting,
Mateo Pérez de Alecio, the one who painted in Seville the San
Cristobal which is by the Lonja entrance. It has a most imposing
temple, all adorned above and on the walls of the three naves with
gold and paintings of this Alecio; they take them down for the
celebration of festivals, because the paintings in the chapels are
covered with taffeta canopies against the dust.

1245. The riches of its sacristy are worth over 300,000 ducats,
for its ordinary is of 15 chapels and altars, all equally adorned with
rich hangings and vestments; and it is a sight worth seeing when
all the priests, each from his altar, gather after the sermon and
walk out together, all alike in rich chasubles of one color and one
weave ; and although many prelates have contributed to this wealth
of adornment, the initiator was Fray Don Salvador de Ribera, former
Bishop of Quito, and the one who lavished wealth upon it was Fray
Don Augustin de Vega, who died when he was Bishop-elect of
Paraguay, and his brother, Fray Francisco de Vega, Candidate for
M.A., Provincial of that province.

1246. There is a chapel and Confraternity of the Rosary, very
devout and with large membership and wealth, provided with every-
thing ; every year they marry off seven or eight orphan girls. The
convent has over 250 friars; it maintains a college for students,
where they really teach letters; they have professorships in arts,
philosophy, and theology, as do the other religious orders, all as
flourishing educationally as any leading university in the world, with
public defense of theses, at which all are present in turn by invita-
tion. They have famous preachers and scholars, both among those
who have come over from Spain and among the natives of this
country, where the skies seem to induce brilliancy of intellect and
distinction of character. There is another very strict convent of this
same Order of Preachers, the convent of Recollects of La Madalena,
distinguished for their virtue and remarkable for the architecture of
their church and home.

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1247. The Order of the Seraphic Father St. Francis has its grand
convent, where Heaven would seem to have deposited sanctity, par-
ticularly in the estate of the lay friars, so near perfection is their
religious observance, as is the case also in the other convents, without
weakening in good example, and with remarkable continuity in choir
and other religious exercises. It has over 200 friars in residence.
It occupies a magnificent site, with cloisters and garden. There are
very great professors and preachers among them, and so extreme
is the devotion of the people to them that even though their church
is magnificent in its decoration, and all gilded and with frescos on
its walls and a sacristy rich in ornaments, if they wanted to imitate
Solomon’s temple and line it with gold plate, they would be able to,
for the devotion of the people goes out to them in every matter with
great fervor and charity.

1248. There is a splendid chapel of the Immaculate Conception,
to whose service and religious worship this Seraphic Order is de-
voted; it is impressively decorated with altarpieces, and provides
many chaplaincies and Masses; the most pious Confraternity of this
chapel marries off every year some g or 10 orphan girls ; and although
all the other convents have their infirmary quarters well cared for,
this has a unique cloister and apartments for them, like a convent
apart, with as much comfort for the poor sick friar as the wealthiest
citizen could have in his home, nor could the most lavish and exact-
ing person have such luxury and medicines, although each invalid
costs a considerable sum in reals for the nursing, though the nurse
will not accept as much as the people’s devotion gives him.

1249. This holy order has another convent, of Barefoot Friars,
across the river in Triana at the end of the Alameda, home of
acknowledged sanctity and a very devout retreat, where the pious
find persons on whom to expend their devotion, and the afflicted find
consolation. There is another convent of this order, Nuestra Senora
de Guadalupe, in the other part of the city, a college dedicated to
education; its beginnings are so impressive that it promises to be
one of the finest in the Indies, and able to vie with the most remark-
able in Europe.

CHAPTER XXII

Continuing the Description of the Remarkable Convents of This
Important City.

1250. The Order of the Glorious Doctor and Patriarch St. Augus-
tine has a splendid convent in the best part of the city. It has a
magnificent temple with three naves, with reredos imposing for their

436 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

architecture and combinations, wood carving and sculpture at all the
altars and in all the chapels, 17 in number, with the most sacred chapel
of the image of the Holy Crucifix of Burgos. They are finishing
the construction of their establishment; it has remarkable cloisters,
of rich architecture. There are more than 150 resident friars here,
distinguished professors and preachers among them; they seem in
these later times to embody the tradition of that famous preacher
Fray Pedro Ramirez Andaluz, who lived here; he seems to have
inspired his brethren with the spirit and remarkable manner of his
preaching and his literary talent, and it is no wonder, since they
have such a training school in the college of San Ildefonso, in which,
besides the regular courses, they have unique practice in literary
composition, being relieved of their choir duties, which in the large
convent are very exacting. They have another and recent establish-
ment, of Recollects, out in the farthest wards of Triana, quite neces-
sary at that point for the good of the poor and the slaves belonging
to the neighboring farms and estates, and for the workers who go
out into the country in that direction on the Malambo road.

1251. The Royal Mercedarian Order is finishing its sumptuous
church; its main chapel is the best of all the convents, and its first
cloister is excellent. They devote great care to education and have
distinguished teachers and preachers, and their popularity is such
that they carry the city along with them; in fact, the sacristy receipts
are Over 20,000 pesos annually. This convent and all the others in
the city have large incomes, to which the religious instruction dis-
tricts (dotrinas) contribute a great deal; the church authorities
assign many friars to them. They celebrate their festivals with great
devotion, particularly that of the Nativity of Our Lady. This, be
it said without giving offense, may vie with any religious celebration
anywhere; after seeing it, one has no desire to witness the greatest
festivals in Rome or Toledo or Seville, for the magnificence of its
display is such that no exaggeration can do it justice.

This sainted Order has another convent, of Recollect Friars of
Our Lady of Bethlehem, who enjoy a high reputation in the city for
their virtue, good example, and deep piety.

1252. The Order of the Company of Jesus maintains the college
of San Pablo, the house for novitiates and approbation candidates,
the residence in the Indian village of Santiago del Cercado, and the
college of San Martin. In all they have more than 200 brethren, and
although the good example set by this sainted Order is resplendent
in all the provinces of Christendom, it shines with special brilliance
in this city, preserving the original illumination of its first founders,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 437

particularly with the wisdom, sanctity, and high example of Padre
Juan Sebastian, whose memory will last for many centuries in that
Kingdom.

1253. The College of San Pablo has the lower Latin school and
the regular professorial chairs of Prime and Vespers, of Philosophy,
Theology, and Scripture. Its founders were Licentiate Juan Martinez
de Rengifo and Diego de Porras Sugredo, its distinguished bene-
factor ; and as the foresight of this Order is well known, they have
engaged in installing farms and limekilns to give them an income
for their building, and now that they have that enterprise established,
they are putting up a new church, and since this is the most modern
in construction, their good choice will give it the advantage over all
the other churches of that city.

1254. As regards the exactitude, neatness, and nice attention with
which they treat all details of divine service, it would appear that
they are supreme and carry off the palm. Their novitiate has a
marvelous church already finished ; its founder was Antonio Correa,
a noble and highly regarded personality in that city, where God gave
him much wealth, but better still, the inspiration to carry out during
his life and by his own exertions, this and other remarkable works ;
nor did he forget his native town of Valdemoro, where he left other
grand memorials, not only for his relatives but also for the benefit
of the poor.

1255. It is remarkable how much good this sainted Order accom-
plishes in its activities for individuals, which conduce to the universal
benefit of human souls, an acknowledged benefit to all social condi-
tions ; and besides the high opinion held by everyone in regard to its
pulpit and confessional, it has a congregation of priests to which
repair with exemplary confidence the Ecclesiastical Chapter, another
congregation of students, and another of laymen, comprising 800
men of every station in the republic; this can serve as a model to
all such organizations the world over, for it contains many persons
well known for their high virtues ; they visit the hospitals and prisons.
They have a contract covering Masses for the dead; everyone con-
tributes 8 reals for his quota which is the alms for one Mass, and
they have a fund; in fact, even before the dying member has expired,
the deputy for the month, who is one of the 12 directors, each serving
in turn, takes a certificate from the treasurer based on the book
recording the quotas for each one of the death Masses, and certifies
that he is not in arrears for Masses, for if he is they will not say
the Mass; he at once signs the draft on the Prefect and Father of
the Congregation, and at sight of this draft they turn over to him 300

438 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

pesos from the fund; the deputy chooses the church where he wants
the Mass said, and remains in attendance to the point at which the
Mass ends; each priest as he finishes saying the Mass for the deceased
member receives the alms and signs a receipt; and the deputy is
cleared on handing in the receipts.

1256. And on the first Sunday following, announcement is made
to the congregation of the death of a member to be recommended
to God; a statement is read that a Mass is owed him, the treasurer
takes it and gives it to the deputy ; the sum deposited is handed over,
and each deceased member receives at least 600 Masses; and in
their chapel which is admirably constructed and whose gold decora-
tion makes it a glowing coal, they pay him solemn honors with vigils
and a sung Mass with Deacon and Subdeacon officiating, and a
catafalque with an ample number of 4-wick tapers and white wax
candles, and many ordinary Masses which they say for him; and
on the anniversary and commemoration of All Souls in the church
of the Company, in the main chapel, they erect a catafalque specially
prepared with so much wax and magnificence that it looks like a
royal ceremony and not one of a private congregation.

1257. There is another congregation of boys in the decury; those
who have charge of them, like new Elishas, accommodate themselves
to the children and their spiritual condition, bringing them together
for them to learn the prayers and Christian doctrine; they have
doctors with their insignia of hoods and tassels; they give degrees,
and have horseback parades through the city, which are a fine sight.

1258. There is another congregation, of Indians, and another,
of Negroes; these all meet Sundays after noon in different chapels ;
there, after a few minutes’ reading in public of spiritual lessons,
they have their sermon; on some days the Father who has them in
charge invites others to deliver the spiritual discourse. And since
the slaves who hold the horses are many in number and stand out
in the street in front of the gates of the College of San Pablo, one
of the Fathers comes out and takes his position in a high spot and
preaches to them, so that they may not be deprived of good doctrine
and instruction. All these congregations, and particularly that of
the laymen who are under the protection of Our Lady of Expectation,
have their festival and communion every month; the Holy Sacrament
is exposed with remarkable lavishness of elaborate decoration.

1259. Every year they celebrate their festival and invite the Vice-
roy and the Circuit Court; and as a matter worthy of mention, I
shall speak of the most solemn Mass given by the Lay Congregation
in the year 1617 on the feast of the Immaculate Conception, the

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Prefect being Capt. Hernando de Santa Cruz. That was one of the
first in the world on which was spent over 30,000 ducats; it was all
planned, arranged, and carried out by this Prefect; and since there
is a special book written about this feast, I would refer to it in closing
the account of the congregations. This order maintains another
remarkable college, that of San Martin, which I shall describe in
its proper place.

CHAPTER XXIII

Continuing the Description, with the Nunneries of Lima.

1260. This city has six nunneries, famous and remarkable both
for their temples and for the large number of nuns, all of them
subject to the monastic rule with clausure. The convent of the
Encarnacion has nuns who follow the canonical rule; there are over
700 persons, counting the servants, maids, and white-veiled nuns.
This remarkable convent was founded by Dona Mensia de Almaraz
y Sosa, who was the wife of Francisco Hernandez Jiron, a man of
great force and talent; although it had slight beginnings, she was
seconded by some noblewomen of the first families in that city, and
it now has a large income in bequests and rentals. In this convent
and all the others of this city, nuns enter with a dowry of 2,000
assay pesos, which are a few maravedis more than a Castilian gold
crown (escudo. )

1261. The residence is well built and the area covered is so con-
siderable that if a servant runs away from her mistress, it takes
several days to find her, for it has streets and wards like a village,
and cells as perfect as a house with all its appurtenances and offices,
although they all sleep in the common dormitory. They have been
and are renowned for music, and it has held the first place with them ;
their discipline is remarkable, and their festivals most impressive ;
they have many during the year, especially at the Ascension of the
Virgin, on which occasion they lay aside their vestments ; the whole
year through they prepare new and ornate regalia for this festival,
which lasts 3 days; on the last they celebrate the Ascension and
Coronation. They outdo themselves in adorning the church, sur-
passing what is done in Spain, both in fragrance and in the choice
of the best preachers, music, and instruments ; and in particular each
nun seems beyond praise in the perfection of her adornment and
the fragrance of sweet perfume.

1262. The next in age and size is the convent of La Concepcion ;
they have white robes and blue mantles, with the insignia and image
of Our Lady, one on the breast and the other on the mantle at the

440 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

shoulder. They observe the Franciscan rule. It was founded by Dona
Inés Mufioz de Ribera, wife of Francisco Martin de Alcantara,
brother of the Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro ; by a second marriage,
she was wife of Don Antonio de Ribera, Knight of the Order of
Santiago, whose death, and that of a son, leaving her with great
wealth, led her, under God’s guidance, to build this convent for His
betrothed. This magnificent convent contains more than 500 nuns
and service personnel. Its temple is superb, with a ceiling all paneled
with gold flowers of marvelous workmanship ; this was finished while
Dona Rafaela Celis de Padilla was Abbess.

1263. Among the fine altars here, that of John the Baptist is most
sumptuous, the altarpiece and decoration being so rich that it can vie
without reservation with any other sanctuary in the world. In music
it competes on a par with the Encarnacion, and in individual voices
it has won the palm, and that in festivals as important and conspicuous
as that of the Incarnation, which is no slight praise.

1264. The third place is held by the convent of the Santisima
Trinidad, of the Order of St. Bernard, though it does not possess
such large revenues or property as the others. Its founder was Dona
Lucrecia de Sansoles, a woman of great force and discipline of charac-
ter, but severe and somewhat overzealous ; after her death they chose
a better location, and though their means were limited, her successors
in the administration have brought a splendid temple to completion.
It contains over 100 nuns; some claim their music is on a par with
that of the better convents.

1265. The convent of Santa Clara is a later foundation ; they were
aided by the zeal of the sainted Archbishop Don Toribio Alfonso
Mogrovejo; it was he who contributed the initial impulse, the funds,
and the personnel up to the death of Francisco de Saldana, a man
of excellent intentions and holy zeal, although from its foundation
he had already helped the sainted Archbishop all he could. This con-
vent contains more nuns than the Trinidad, and it would appear that
their music carries off the palm, since novelty is always popular.

1266. Next in order comes the convent of the Barefoot Nuns of
St. Joseph of La Concepcion, under the same Franciscan rule. Their
numbers are limited to 33 nuns, corresponding to the years of Christ’s
age. The founders were Dona Leonor de Ribera and Dona Beatriz
de Orozco, sisters of Rodrigo de Orozco, the great soldier, Marqués
de Mortara, and Dofia Maria de Orozco, founder of the convent of
La Concepcion at Loja in Peru, whom I confessed when I was in
that Kingdom, and about whose virtues many books could be written,
as in fact she herself has written them, on the revelations and other

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mysteries which Our Lord communicated to her. They were children
of Licentiate Orozco, Circuit Judge of the Charcas, where these
illustrious and sainted persons were born. This convent is a model
of sanctity and religious observance; it seems like Heaven, and so
does its temple, in the afflux of priests who usually come here to
say Mass, and in the neat arrangement of its altars.

1267. The last in order of founding, but not in size, is that of
Santa Catalina de Sena, of the Dominican Order and rule. Its
founders were the illustrious Licentiate Juan de Robles, cleric, and
Dofia Lucia de la Daga and her sister, widows and distinguished
women, of great virtue and worth. These ladies in the flower of their
age founded this convent with the large dowries which they had,
bringing after them, with their example, many women betrothed to
Jesus Christ. Before inaugurating their foundation, they had a fine
temple and house built ; it promises great increase.

CHAPTER XXIV

Continuing the Description of Lima, and of Other Features Which
Embellish It.

1268. No less godly, and in fact unique in the world, is the Con-
fraternity of La Caridad and its hospital, which embraces and com-
prises within itself monuments of charity. Within its enclosure it
has an admirable hospital for poor sick women, and a refuge and
seminary beyond compare for impecunious young ladies and girls;
they wear the Carmelite habit, with dark gray gowns and white
sashes, and the shield and insignia of the Virgin; they have a Direc-
tress in charge of them. Here they are educated in great virtue and
in retirement ; they leave this school and nursery or planting ground,
to get married or become nuns; and this noble hospital gives them
the dowry for that. I certify that in the presence of that nobility
and beautiful display of sanctity, under the most holy habit of the
Virgin Our Lady, when I was in that city it seemed to me the greatest
thing in the world.

Besides the above, this most sainted Confraternity supports a large
number of distressingly poor persons in their homes by distributing
weekly rations and alms with the utmost charity, consoling and visit-
ing the afflicted poor at the same time.

1269. This most sainted Confraternity escorts the bodies of exe-
cuted prisoners and buries them; and during the octaves of All Souls
they gather their bones from the highways and put them in coffins
covered with black velvet cloth in the Cathedral in the chapel of

442 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Las Animas. The curates of all the parishes gather with their crosses,
and all the religious orders and nobility of the city, notably the
Confraternity of the Prisons, who unite with them on this occasion,
being a sister organization and distinguished also. In solemn pro-
cession the two Confraternities carry the coffins to the church of this
organization and hospital of La Caridad; and there with music and
fine funeral services they give honorable burial to those who with
public infamy hung on the scaffold as an example to evildoers along
the highways, until charity exercised its mission.

1270. And since I am discussing the Confraternity of the Prisons
and Charity, although it goes under the title of San Pedro y San
Pablo (Sts. Peter and Paul), let me say that it has two public chapels
and sanctuaries, extraordinarily well attended every day by the city’s
faithful; these have countless treasures and riches for the soul,
granted by the Supreme Pontiffs to this Confraternity of Sts. Peter
and Paul; they have given it the privileges enjoyed in Rome by
Sts. Peter and Paul, St. John Lateran, Jerusalem, and Santiago, and
countless other indulgences and concessions, with a special pontifical
bull of exemption from secular and ecclesiastical judges, and the
faculty of appointing their own Judge Conservator over themselves.
and permission to their Prior who is their governor, and his Chapter,
to name chaplains, as is done on the day of the saints their guardians ;
on that day they elect Prior, Superintendent (Mayordomo), Attorney
(Procurador), and deputies, whose mission it is to give aid without
limitation of amount to all the poor Spaniards, Indians, Negroes, and
mulattoes in both prisons of this city and capital, with very ample
rations ; and that is not the least, for they inquire into their cases and
possible release, and cure those sick in body and soul, providing them
with preachers and persons to pray with them at night and teach them
Christian doctrine.

They pay salaries to two lawyers and two chaplains, an attorney,
a solicitor, and a doctor, surgeon, and apothecary; and in court by
royal warrant the members of this Confraternity have the right of
sitting as knights to defend the cases of these poor fellows; and so
the nobility of this city warmly support this Confraternity.

1271. Of no less importance for the education of girls is the retreat
and convent of the Carmelite Order, of the Glorious Virgin St.
Teresa, glory of our Spain, with the title of St. Joseph; it was
founded by Domingo Gomez de Silva and Catalina Maria his wife.
They wear the Carmelite habit and keep the Carmelite rule, and this
sacred Order is much sought after in this devout city. The daughters
of leading persons are educated in this retreat in great virtue and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 443

isolation and continual choral practice, more than if they were
Barefoot Nuns. It was originally established a league out from the
city on the road leading to Callao, with the shield and arms of
Nuestra Senora del Carmen; then they moved into the city, where
there is also another Carmelite convent next to Santa Clara and
very popular with the people.

1272. The Royal Hospital of San Andrés was established by the
piety of the Marqués de Canete, old Don Hurtado de Mendoza. It
can vie with the best in the world, for it receives without limit or
personal favor those ill with any disease, distributing them in dif-
ferent wards. Its wards, emplacement, and offices seem like a town.
It has an insane asylum at one side, and some act as servants, though
wearing tertiary habits. It has a large number of men and women
slaves for the service of the poor. Since the time of devout Marqués
de Salinas, Don Luis de Velasco, it has been better conducted, for
it was observed that the administrators appointed by the government
did not exercise the care and devotion which the hospital required.
Accordingly with the aid of the sanctity of that great man, as saintly
as wise, Padre Juan Sebastian of the Company of Jesus, there was
established a Confraternity of noble and wealthy persons in the city,
who elect their Superintendent (Mayordomo) and eight deputies
each year; two are in attendance each week in turn and experience
has shown how brilliant this Confraternity’s administration has been
in the addition of new wards; one Superintendent after another, in
pious emulation, has tried to leave a memorial in improvements of
wards, offices, infirmary, and wardrobe, which latter has to provide for
over 500 beds, and in comfort for the invalids, which is such that
any well-to-do person can be taken care of there in no less luxury
than in his own home; it is a fact that a remedy has been compounded
there costing over 200 reals, and it was handed out on the doctor’s
prescription, although it cost more than the care of many invalids
would take. On the spiritual side they have chaplains and confessors,
who live in the hospital itself, and if the Superintendent wishes to
reside in it, he has a very respectable apartment and quarters there.

CHAPTER X XV

Continuing the Description of the Splendid Hospitals of This
City ; and of Its Famous University.

1273. The famous Hospital of Santa Ana was founded by that
most devout churchman, Don Jeronimo de Loaysa, first Archbishop
of Peru, for the care of the Indians. It has an income of over 30,000

444 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

pesos; its administration is conducted like that of San Andrés. At
that same time the Marqués de Salinas, Don Luis de Velasco, aided
by the warm-hearted charity of saintly Padre Juan Sebastian of
the Company of Jesus, established a Confraternity like that of San
Andrés; they serve under the same arrangement, but with a larger
number of invalids, a women’s ward apart, and infirmaries so remark-
able that they surpass all praise; the beds are neat and clean and the
wardrobe so extensive that it can furnish what is needful for 1,000
beds; and as the Indians are used to their meals of Indian corn and
herbs, seasoned with aji (chilli) or pepper, they prepare them for
them after their fashion ; and even though there are so many of them,
particularly when they come down from the sierra and adjoining
villages into the hot country in the plains for the allotment of the
mitas (service assignments) for labor and cultivation on the land,
at the beginning of summer, the season when most are sick, they care
for each one with great solicitude and attention; the deputies are
present at their treatment, their dinners and suppers; they look after
both the food that is provided for them and the preparation of the
remedies prescribed for them.

1274, There is another hospital called the Espiritu Santo, in which
they take care of sick sailors, with a brilliant church and fine infirmary
wards. Its income is derived from the ships that enter and clear the
port; the hospital receives a share of the profits and freight charges
of these ships, and as there are many of them, this city’s port Callao
having an active commerce, the hospital benefits to the amount of
many thousand ducats a year.

The hospital of San Diego belongs to the Brethren of San Juan
de Diéds; they take care of convalescents and the aged, providing
them with the necessary sustenance. It was founded by two honorable
married citizens of this city ; although I cannot remember their names,
they are written in the Book of Life.

1275. The University and Royal Schools are so distinguished that
they need envy no other in the world, since they were established
by the Emperor Charles V, and later by Philip II, both of glorious
memory ; they enlarged, ennobled and enriched them, with the same
privileges as the University of Salamanca; they endowed the pro-
fessorial chairs of Prime with 1,000 assay pesos, and those of Vespers
with 600, per annum. The Prime chairs are in Theology, Scholastics,
Scripture, Law, and Canons; the Vespers, in the Institutes, the Code,
the Decretals, three in Philosophy, one in the Indian language for
the training of the priests who are to be parish priests or dotrineros ;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 445

before they are commissioned, they have to be examined and cer-
tificated by the Professor of the language.

1276. The Professors are in major part natives of the Indies and
especially of this city, where it would appear that the skies, as usually
in the Indies, train outstanding and unusual intellects in subtlety and
facility, so that in general they are very able and keen witted; this
is obvious from the professorial positions which they occupy and the
pulpits, where remarkable men distinguish themselves in their mastery
of science and oratory; but they are unfortunate in living far from
the eyes of His Majesty. For after all their labors, since there are
so few professorial chairs and so many candidates, and there cannot
be many lawyers, after having drudged and done brilliantly, and
having spent in attaining the degrees of Licentiate and Doctor, 3,500
pesos, they lose heart, unless they have private means, at seeing them-
selves unrewarded ; so the clerics take benefices and Indian curacies
in order to live, and many abandon their books and studies, and never
take their degrees.

1277. This University’s faculty is important, for it comprises
more than 80 Doctors and Masters ; the members of the Circuit Court
join them, for at the end of the year the fees amount to many ducats.
The lecture halls in the schools are excellent, and the chapel very
fine, but the most remarkable feature is the amphitheater, where they
hold the public functions and commencements; it is very large and
imposing ; the display at the granting of whatever degrees are given,
is also imposing. They invite the city’s nobility as an escort, and
meet at the house of the Doctor-to-be in a blare of trumpets, flageolets,
and bugles, with a banner which hangs from a window of the house
over a canopy on crimson velvet cushions and has the arms of the
University and of the graduating Doctor; these are likewise set up
in the theater erected in the Cathedral under the royal arms; they
remind and notify the invited guests and doctors, who form an escort
the evening before; the nobility follow the banner, then the Beadles
with their silver maces, then the Masters and Doctors with their
insignia, in order of age, closing with the Dean of the faculty and
the graduating Doctor ; and in this order they repair to the Rector’s
house, where the members of the Circuit Court await them; with
the Rector in their center, they continue in the procession, in order
of age. And in this same order the following day they parade till
they arrive at the Cathedral, where the theater and the stage have
been decorated and provided with seats; Mass is said for them, and
at its close after leaving the Cathedral, the newest Doctor of the

446 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

faculty delivers his burlesque invective, and the Chancellor gives him
his degree, just as is done at Salamanca.

CHAPTER XXVI

Of the Famous Colleges in the City of Lima.

1278. Of great value and usefulness in the youthful education of
the sons of this Kingdom are the three distinguished colleges in the
city of Lima—the Royal College of San Marcos, that of San Martin,
and that of San Toribio. Like nurseries or plantations, they turn
out young men who are an ornament to the religious orders, the
pulpits, and the professorial chairs, and they provide this noble
University with remarkable and admirable students.

1279. The College of San Martin was founded by the Viceroy
Don Martin Enrriquez, who gave it a large income. It has 200
students ; they wear dark gray gowns and red sashes. This college
and its students are under the charge of the Fathers of the Company
of Jesus; ordinarily 16 of the Fathers are in attendance, with its
Rector, and they train them well in letters and virtue.

The Royal College of San Marcos was founded by the Marqués
de Cafiete, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, to the honor of his
name ; he provided an income sufficient for the sustenance and instruc-
tion of the students, who wear dark blue gowns with bright blue
sashes with royal crowns embroidered on them, since it is a royal
foundation for the sons of pioneers and worthy persons.

1280. The College of Santo Toribio was founded by the saintly
Archbishop Don Toribio Alfonso Mogrovejo of glorious memory
(Marg.: and is patterned after the Colegio Mayor de Oviedo in
Salamanca, where he was a student). The collegians wear dark gray
gowns and purple sashes (Marg.: gown and sash being those of his
own college, and it has the same statutes and privileges). It is a
seminary, and the income for the support of its students was deter-
mined by the Council of Lima, which the saintly Archbishop cele-
brated in that city in the year 1583, with the attendance of all the
Bishops and Prelates of that Kingdom, the Spanish Main, Nicaragua,
Chile, Tucuman, and Rio de la Plata; the curates and chaplaincies
contribute to this income, which serves for the services in the
Cathedral, its altar and choir and other ministries appertaining, as
well as for the college exercises.

1281. Besides these colleges just mentioned there is another,
founded by the Catholic piety of His Majesty with the sanction of
the gentlemen of the Supreme Council of the Indies, for Indian boys,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 447

sons of the Caciques and native aristocrats of that Kingdom, in the
village at El Cercado, called Santiago, which comes right after the
last houses in the city. This is under the charge of the Fathers of
the Company of Jesus; they educate them and teach them good
manners, Christian doctrine, reading, writing, and music; this is a
very important medium adopted to succeed in rooting out idolatry
among this nation, and to give them greater knowledge of, and
affection for, the tenets of our Holy Faith.

CHAPTER XX VII

Of the Holy Tribunal of the Inquisition, and the Celebration of
an Auto-da-fé.

1282. Among the most remarkable features which distinguish this
city is the Holy Tribunal of the Inquisition, not only for its im-
portance and its rectitude, but also for the wide jurisdiction which
it enjoys, although after the constitution of the Tribunal of the Holy
Inquisition in Cartagena, it was deprived of all the Spanish Main
and the New Kingdom of Granada. But it does hold sway from
the entire jurisdiction of the Diocese of Quito down to the entire
Kingdom of Chile, and over the States of Tucuman, Buenos Ayres,
and Paraguay, an area on either side of over 1,200 leagues, over
which the power of its arm extends. Within this district its jurisdic-
tion includes 2 Archdioceses, those of Lima and the Charcas, and 13
Dioceses, those of Quito, part of Popayan, on the Spanish Main
Panama, Trujillo, Huamanga, Cuzco, Arequipa, Santiago de Chile,
La Concepcién, Chuquiabo or La Paz, Santa Cruz de La Sierra,
Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres; and it is held in so high
esteem in all those realms that in every city or village whatever
commissioner represents it is highly regarded.

1283. It has been most important, especially for the punishment
of many wicked new Christians who have penetrated into these king-
doms both via Brazil and the port of Buenos Ayres, and via New
Spain, the Spanish Main, and the New Kingdom of Granada; and
although all over Christendom this Holy Tribunal is esteemed and
reverenced, I can state with assurance that the Kingdom of Peru
leads them all; and as proof of my assertion I shall insert a descrip-
tion attesting the majesty, pomp, and grandeur manifested by this
sainted Tribunal in celebrating an auto-da-fé, which might be taken
as a model by many Kingdoms for the esteem due this Holy Tribunal,
which celebrated an auto-da-fé on the day of St. Thomas the Apostle,
December 21 ; the procedure was in the form described in the follow-
ing chapter.

448 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

[Cuap. 30. Of the Manner in Which an Auto-da-fé Was Cele-
brated by the Holy Tribunal of the Inquisition of Lima in Peru. |]

1284. On a stated day, and in particular in the city of Lima, it
was announced with trumpets, kettledrums, and flageolets, and with
the attendance of all the Familiars, Alguacil Mayor, Secretaries, and
other functionaries of this Holy Office, in front of the gate of the
Inquisition and Royal Apartments and at the point where the Lonja,
or Street of the Merchants, enters the Plaza Mayor, by the voice of
the town crier, for this date of December 21; and on that same day,
in all this district.

1285. After the announcement, they began setting up the stands;
on account of their size and the very high price of lumber in this
city, they cost a large sum of money; and so, for this and other
reasons, many years intervene between one public auto-da-fé and
another. These stands are put up in the Plaza Mayor in front of the
City Council building and at the same level as its corridors; they
will be 18 feet high, and are divided into two sections, one backing
up against this Council building and for the Tribunal, and the other
opposite and of the same size but some 50 feet distant, with a passage-
way between them. Each of these stands is 100 feet across in front,
and runs back 4o feet, in total circumference, with balcony railings
in the center on 10 steps, which will have a frontage of over 40 feet.
The seats for the Tribunal were elevated and at a distance of some
6 feet at the sides they built Io other steps, on the right and on the
left, arranged like half a hexagon and facing the Tribunal. This
was all covered with rich carpets and all the facade with rich tapestries
with a canopy in the center, and for insignia and shield the image
of a very devout crucifix. At one side of the entrance to the passage-
way was the pulpit; the other stand which was built opposite for the
penitents, was of the same proportions as that for the Tribunal, but
with higher steps and frontage.

1286. Below these they built two other sections and at the sides
between the ends of the two stands, they put up others, which were
occupied by the city’s nobility, the ministers’ wives, the city admin-
istration, and the gentlemen of the city; these sections were suitably
decorated for such persons and for protection against the sun they
hung ships’ sails from very high poles over the whole theater.

On the eve of the day appointed, all the friars of all the orders
gathered in the Chapel of the Holy Office; the procession set out
from there, with the Alguacil Mayor of the Holy Office at its head.
He carried a standard of rich brocade, and was accompanied by the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 449

city’s nobility; they followed the street leading to the corner by the
nunnery of La Concepcion, and from there down the Calle Derecha
(Straight Street) to the Plaza Mayor. The religious erders follow
in two choral groups, in order of age; the Familiars of the Inquisition
pass to and fro in the procession, in gala attire, and with the wands
of justice in their hands, both this day and the next. The procession
closes with the Prior of the Dominican Order, the Vicar General at
that moment; he was carrying a green cross, the insignia of the
Tribunal of our Holy Faith; and he was accompanied by the Inquisi-
tors up to the point where they leave the chapel to come out on the
plaza which has been formed in front of it; the friars chant in
melancholy accents the psalm which begins: “Domine, laudem mean
(sic) ne tacueris, etc.” (Psalm 109.)

In this order they mounted on the Tribunal stand, where, on an
altar which had been prepared, the insignia of our Redemption had
been set up and displayed, as if in triumph over the enemies of the
Lord who died upon it—the pageant of this day and the next fore-
shadowing the tremendous day of the Last Judgment. All the rest
of this day and the following night, Dominican monks furnished
guard, sentinels, and reverence for the Most Holy Cross; and since
during the night people of the lower classes who wanted to get seats
and the guards slept on the stands, they said several Masses at dawn,
so that, it being the day of the Apostle, there should be no break
in the services ; and in order to avoid confusion the Familiars of the
Inquisition who stood at the entrances to the inclined approach to the
stands for the Tribunal and the penitents, were supplemented by four
distinguished gentlemen of the city, who, with canes in their hands,
helped to prevent the populace from entering and to hold the seats
for members of the nobility who came to their places with tickets
from the deputy Inquisitor.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Continuing the Description of the Auto-da-fé.

1287. The Viceroy, Marqués de Guadalcazar, was devoted and
thoughtful in regard to religion and the esteem due the Holy Office ;
accordingly, to give more prestige to the auto and also for the better
protection of the city and to avoid the disorders which are apt to
occur on such days, he ordered four companies of infantry from
the city garrison to come into the Plaza Mayor at 4 a.m. and form
a squadron, and likewise that a company of the garrison’s light cavalry
and another of mounted field harquebussiers cover the flanks of the

30

450 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

squadron, and then police the city by squads. When these prelimi-
naries were attended to, the Cross left the Cathedral under a black
veil, escorted by the curates, and proceeded to the chapel of the Holy
Office, where another infantry company had been stationed with
harquebusses, their fusees lighted; and while the Cross was guided
through the same streets as the procession had followed the afternoon
before, the procession of penitents came out, beginning with those
cuilty of minor offenses; those next to the last wore the Benedictine
reconciliation habits, and behind them the effigies of those who had
been delivered to the criminal tribunal, the dead as well as the living ;
the latter wore vilifying placards indicating their crimes. Each of
these penitents had two escorts beside him, citizens appointed by the
Holy Office; on each side they were accompanied by four harque-
bussiers of the infantry company already mentioned. For such a
spectacle in these streets, there was an infinite number of onlookers
from all parts of the city and the neighborhood, gathered to see it
from windows, terraces, and scaffoldings; but these did not suffice,
and they filled the streets, interfering with the Alguacil Mayor who
was riding about on horseback, and who was aided by the Familiars
and soldiers in clearing the way and making room. On reaching the
Plaza Mayor, penitents and sponsors went up and took their seats,
the first on the lowest, and on the last at the top, the effigies and
those committed to the secular arm, under vaults adorned with flames
and horrible and terrifying figures.

1288. At the same time that the penitents’ procession began along
the street referred to, the Standard of the Faith proceeded from the
Holy Office up the Calle Derecha to the Plaza Mayor past the corner
by the Archbishop’s residence. It was preceded by a company of
mounted harquebussiers of the Royal Guard, and was followed by
all the nobles of the city; behind them came the University faculty
with its Beadles with silver maces in their arms, with all the Doctors
with their insignia, hoods, and tassels, and then the Rector.

Directly behind the University came the mace bearers of the City
Council with crimson robes and caps and silver maces ; each member
of the city administration was accompanied on his right by a Preben-
dary of the Cathedral, and in this order both Chapters proceeded,
the Dean and Alcaldes bringing up the rear. Behind them came
the Kings-at-Arms with silver maces on their shoulders, and then
the Alcalde of the Holy Office with the Standard of the Faith, two
gentlemen on horseback holding the tassels. Next in order were
the members of the Royal Chancery, beginning with the Alguacil
Mayor ; then the Alcaldes del Crimen and the Circuit Court Justices ;

WAHOER VOL.) (DHE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 451

and then the Viceroy, between the two Inquisitors, who on this day
outrank the Justices; the Viceroy, as representing the person of His
Majesty, bulwark of the Church, accompanies them; so when the
Inquisitors rode out on their mules, they had the Viceroy between
them. In this order they arrived at the stands; the Viceroy took
his seat in the center on a brocaded cushion, with another at his feet,
the Inquisitors beside him; then in order the Justices of the Circuit
Court ; on the last step, at the foot of the Tribunal, the Attorney and
his two escorts, holding the Standard of the Faith in their hands,
and the King’s Master of the Horse with bared sword, royal symbol
to indicate defense of the Faith. From this row down were seated
the Calificadores (Censors) and Consultores (Counsellors) and the
Prelates of the religious orders. The uppermost seats on the right
hand of the Tribunal were occupied by the Chapter of the Church,
and the remainder by the University faculty ; on the rows to the left,
the members of the City Council and administration.

[Cuap. 32. Concluding the Description of the Auto-da-feé. |

1289. On that same stand near the altar by the entrance to the
passageway they had put a desk with a rich covering, and on it a
small case handsomely decorated, containing the documents dealing
with those on whom penance was enjoined; nearby were the Secre-
taries’ seats, and in front of the Tribunal, with an aisle left in
between, the seats of the gentlemen and garrison captains.

After they had taken their seats in the order described, one of the
Secretaries took his place in the pulpit by the entrance to the passage-
way, and read aloud the Edict of the Faith to the Viceroy and
nobility and all other ranks in the republic, for them to swear
allegiance to the Faith and to aid the Holy Office; and all in a clear
loud voice said “Yes, I swear ; Amen” and made the sign of the cross.

Next they preached the sermon and at its end the auto began;
the Secretary called out and designated the penitent by name, whose
case was to be considered ; the Warden went to the penitents’ section
and called him; his sponsors and he went down the passageway, at
the center of which was a high stand; he stood there all the time
it took to have his case detailed; the same procedure was followed
with all the rest, until they came to those last in order, those of persons
released to the secular arm; they draw up the ordinance immediately,
giving notice of the penalty of the pyre; the guilty persons are put
on packsaddles on beasts of burden, and with the town crier beside
them, proclaiming their infidelity, they reach the place of punishment,

452 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

escorted by the infantry company which accompanied them in the
procession; the pyre and place of punishment, where the sentence
is carried out, is outside of the city. While this is in process of
execution, the rest of the penitents on the stand come down from
their seats and pass over to those on the Tribunal side; here the wax
candles which they carried unlighted in their hands in the procession,
are lighted, and the oldest Inquisitor, in surplice and stole, with wands
in his hands, and with the Cathedral choir intoning the Psalm
Miserere mei (Have mercy upon me, O God) absolves each of them
in accordance with the sentence, after each has taken the Levior
Vehementi oath. Then they take the black veil off the Cross they
had carried in the morning, and the procession returns to the Holy
Office, with Standard and escort in the same order as it came out.
On the next day those who are to be disciplined and flogged are
marched through the streets publicly, escorted to their disgrace by
the Alguacil Mayor, Secretaries, and Familiars; those who have to
go to the galleys are consigned at once to the Royal Prison as slaves
to the King, to be turned over to the galleys. And although in this
statement and description something has been told, yet the majesty
usually displayed in the auto-da-fé.is such that it outdoes any possible
account or exaggeration, however full this account may seem to
have been.

CHAPTER XXIX

Of the Port of Callao, Suburb of the City of Lima.

1290. The port of Lima, Callao, is 2 leagues distant from the
city, over an arid plain, for it never rains in those regions. The
harbor settlement is at the water’s edge and runs N. and S., with the
coast itself. The land and the beach on which it is built, is loose
gravel or small pebbles, used for ballast by all ships plying the
Pacific. The place is subject to destruction by earthquakes, on account
of the gravel, and so in order to give the houses strength of con-
struction they build large cement foundations. This place will contain
more than 700 Spanish residents, not counting the transients who
normally flock here in large numbers; there are two roads here from
Lima, every day crowded with people coming and going and with
troops of mules; then there are the visitors from the nearby valleys
and from the ships at sea entering and clearing every day. From the
valleys they bring down wheat, corn, sugar, and other local products ;
and the ships bring consignments of wine from the valleys of Ica,
Pisco, and Nasca, with the products of New Spain, Nicaragua, the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 453

Spanish Main, Guayaquil, and all the coast valleys of this Kingdom
and that of Chile.

1291. In addition there is a garrison of 500 Spaniards in 5 infantry
companies, and a large service contingent of Negroes and mulattoes,
slaves and free, and Indians, who come in and help both in the
harbor activities and the service of its residents, and in the trans-
portation of the merchandise and products referred to, charcoal, salt,
lumber, chickpeas, peanuts, kidney beans, pallares, poroto peas, and
many other kinds of cereals, for this port abounds in everything.
It lies W. of the city of Lima.

There is an excellent parish church in this place, well served, and
convents of all the orders, Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian,
Mercedarian, and Jesuit, each with 12 or 14 friars; they are all
abundantly provided with everything necessary for human life. In
addition there is a hospital of the Brethren of San Juan de Dids,
where they care for the indigent sick with great pains and charity.

1292. This port contains many shops and stores with their enco-
menderos; here are stored all the commodities which the ships bring
down from the valleys for the provisioning of the city of Lima,
e.g., from the valleys of Pisco, Ica, Ingenio, Nasca, and others, great
numbers of jugs of wine; from those of Cafiete, Barranca, Santa,
and others, wheat, pallares, peanuts, corn, chickpeas, and other cereals,
both Spanish and indigenous; salt, charcoal, and great amounts of
lumber are brought from Guayaquil, Panama, Nicaragua, and other
quarters for construction in the city of Lima, and other purposes ;
pitch comes from Nicaragua, and other products from other valleys
on the Peruvian coast, as, from those of Chicama, Huarmey, and
others, much sugar; from the Kingdom of Chile, cordovan leather,
tallow, and quantities of hemp and other sorts of cloth; cordovan
leather and other commodities imported from Quito and New Spain;
silk comes from China, and many other goods, which are both retailed
in Lima and distributed all over the kingdom.

1298. To the N. of the harbor of Callao there is a little stream
where the fleets and ships get their water ; there are 2 or 3 gristmills
along it for the provisioning of the port, where there are usually
many traders and merchants, on account of the active commerce
there, owing to all the trading ships which enter and leave [there]
every day; usually there are over 40 ships in this harbor, plus those
of the fleet which His Majesty stations here for its protection and
that of the Pacific.

The harbor is good, deep, and safe, and is free from shipworms ;
there are none here, for although it is only 12° from the Equator,

454 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the sea water is so cold here that they chill beverages in it. For
this reason ships last long in that sea; in fact, they exceed 30 or 40
years of use, both for the reason given and because the sea is calm;
that is why they can serve and navigate such a long time. The ships
stand close to shore, for the harbor is deep; furthermore, this harbor
has to its W. an island more than 2 leagues long, all of it a range of
hills, which shelters it from S. and SW. winds. Small boats come
in between the point on the mainland and the island; large ships,
from W. and NW. of the island; it is an open and very capacious
harbor, and free of shoals, of which there are none, as well as of
shipworms, as has been stated.

[CHAp. 34. Continuing the Description of the Port of Callao. ]

1294. The port of Callao is abundantly supplied with delicious
fish, caught both there and all along the coast ; every afternoon many
fishing boats come in, manned both by Spaniards and by Indians
and Negroes, loaded down with delicious varieties of fish, such as
pejerreyes, anchovetas, which are sardines, besugos (sea bream),
dentones (a kind of sparus), mojarras, and other species of very
delicate fish. For this reason fish sells very cheap; in fact, for I real
they give you a string of them weighing over 4 pounds. Accordingly
both in this specialty and in everything else, this place has an abundant
supply of cheap and delicious foodstuffs.

In the neighborhood are many farms and fruit orchards, raising
both Spanish and native varieties; fields of alfalfa, which is like
green barley, for mule and draught-horse fodder; fields of corn,
wheat, and other cereals; they have excellent melon fields. Between
the port of Callao and Lima there are likewise some vineyards and
olive groves, oranges, lemons, and good banana plantations, all irri-
gated by canals from the Rio de Lima, for in that country it never
rains ; and with the uniform climate of that region and the irrigation,
it is one of the most fertile and attractive spots in the world.

1295. In the district between Callao and the city of Lima there
are rich farms and cultivated fields with elaborate homes; 1 league
out there is an establishment and convent of the Carmelites, with
its insignia, built by Domingo Gomez de Silva, a virtuous man of
exemplary life, and dedicated and consecrated to Nuestra Senora
del Carmen; here he placed several girls clothed in the saintly habit
of Our Lady, who observed the rule with great strictness and isolation,
and repeated the Divine Office with great fervor, thus praising and
serving Our Lord, and edifying the faithful with their grand example.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 455

On the other road from Callao to Lima, a league out and opposite
the Carmelite establishment to the S., there is an Indian village called
La Magdalena, with many gardens or orchards of fruit trees, of
both Spanish and native varieties; this is a bit of Paradise in its
good location, verdure, and the bright skies it enjoys. Another league
from the village of La Magdalena to the S. there is another Indian
village called de Sulco; round about it are many farms and fields of
wheat, corn, and other cereals and vegetables, large plantations of
sugarcane with sugar mills, and some olive groves with other planta-
tions and cattle ranches.

CHAPTER XXX

Of the Forts and Castles at the Port of Callao for Its Defense.

1296. In the year 1615 the Prince of Esquilache came out to govern
the Kingdoms of Peru. The hostile Dutch had entered that ocean
that year by the Straits and had struck apprehension into that King-
dom and its ports and the ships on that sea. That was the last year
of the administration of the Marqués de Montesclaros ; they had been
living in great negligence, and the Kingdom was thrown into great
confusion because it had neither artillery nor munitions for its de-
fense. So the Prince of Esquilache set out to remedy some of the
crying needs and ordered two forts or bastions erected. One of them
is by the Hospital of San Juan de Dids and near the mouth of the
rivulet where the fleets take water, and is for the defense of the
harbor against enemies on that side. This bastion has seven bronze
pieces: two culverins, each of 110 quintals; the other five are half
culverins and heavy cannon; for the casting of them he had a quantity
of copper brought up from the Kingdom of Chile, from the mines
of Coquimbo or La Serena; this is the best that is known in the world,
both because of its high native quality and of the large amount of
gold it contains.

1297. The other fort or bastion he ordered built in front of the
Royal Apartments. This bastion contains a fortress with the major
part of its foundations provided with their platforms and orillons,
There are nine pieces in this fort: two culverins of 116 quintals, two
other half culverins of 80 quintals, and the cannon which was in the
galley; this is also 80 quintals; the other pieces are heavy cannon.
This fort and that of Covadonga, the one near the rivulet, have vaults
beside them with powder, balls, ladles, and all else appertaining to
artillery, so that they can clear the whole harbor and keep the enemy
from approaching or entering it.

456 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

The Royal Apartments have their vaults, in which are stored the
supplies, munitions, and other stores for the navy, which has Admiral’s
and Vice Admiral’s flagships. The San Pelayo has 4o pieces of
bronze artillery of 40 quintals and over; the San Joseph, which is
the Vice Admiral’s ship, has usually 32 pieces or more; there are
2 or 3 others, small galleons, the San Bartolomé, San Felipe, and
Santiago; these usually carry 18 or 20 pieces, and transport His
Majesty’s silver and private gentlemen to Panama, with other mer-
chant ships without artillery or defense, in consequence of the careless
security in which they have been living. Two or three other galleons
are left for the defense of the port.

1298. Later, since much apprehension was aroused by the corsair’s
fleet which roamed that ocean robbing its ships and ravaging its
coasts, in the year 1624 the Marqués de Guadalcazar built another
fort or bastion near the point on the open sea; it is called San Felipe
de Guadalcazar, with 12 pieces of artillery, among them 2 culverins
of 120 quintals, and the rest half culverins and heavy cannon. In this
fort there is a Warden and Lieutenant, with gunners and a garrison
of soldiers. Near this fort are the lagoons, where they catch quan-
tities of excellent lisas.

At the end of the island, he ordered another fort built, where there
is excellent artillery and soldiers to guard it and assist in the defense
on that quarter ; and there is another of the same sort at the entrance
to Callao, near the gristmills, for the defense of the harbor on that
side. There is another castle at the mouth of the Rio de Bocanegra,
to the N. of Callao and about half a league away, there being an
inlet there, at the mouths of the Rio de Lima and Rio de Carabullo,
which they call the Bocanegra. Thus the port and the city of Lima
are guarded by these forts and castles just described, and protected
from enemies.

Furthermore, in consequence of the enemy pirate’s incursion of
the year 1624, they built 3 galliots and 13 gunboats, each with a
fieldpiece or small-bored culverin in the bow, and a flatboat like a
pontoon arranged on heavy timbers, with 4 cannon, to inflict damage
on the enemy’s ships.

1299. In Callao there is a General, whose annual salary is 3,000
assay pesos, and five Captains, whose monthly pay is 90 9-real pesos
each; the Ensigns get 50, Sergeants 30, and the soldiers 20; there
are two Adjutants without pay. The Sergeant Major is one of the
infantry Captains, with the same pay as Captain.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 457

Here is accurate information arriving from Lima this present
year, 1629, and written in 1627: they advise me that there are 329
pieces of heavy bronze artillery, distributed as follows: in the forts
of Guadalcazar, San Pablo, the Hospital, Chuquitanta and Bocanegra,
185 pieces of reenforced bronze; the smallest weigh 60 quintals and
the largest 115; in the 2 galleons for the defense of the harbor,
72, 36 in each; the patache has 12; then there are 40 fieldpieces with
their charges, guncarriages, and other necessary equipment, and 20
pieces of 50 quintals each, in the gunroom.

There are 4,000 jars of refined gunpowder, each containing 30
pounds, and three mills where a large amount is compounded and
manufactured, of excellent quality. There are 32 municipal companies,
not counting 22 appointed by the Viceroy to enroll men, and 2 of
cavalry, besides 17 companies of infantry raised for a garrison by
the city’s residents, and 6 of lance and target cavalry. Besides these
there have been formed 3 companies of farmers, mounted, with
harquebusses ; another company is the Viceroy’s lancers; and there
are 3 of mulattoes and 2 of free Negroes, persons who are necessary
and important for the work; these have been attached to the 32 com-
panies, not reckoning on the 22 companies for which the Viceroy has
appointed Captains, each to raise 100 men, outsiders, from outside
the city. All of this has awakened them from their neglect, and the
city is well equipped for any emergency.

CHAPTER XX XI

Statement of the Provinces, Convents, Friars, Curacies, and Reve-
nues of the Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian, and
Jesuit Orders, in Peru.

1300.
Prov-
inces Convents Friars Curacies Revenues
Wominicans) o....-.. 3 48 604 105 75,575 Pesos of 8
reals
Eiraneiscansiecanc. sc 4 71 780 Tite cere.
Augustinians ....... 3 44 546 38 75,200
Mercedarians ....... 4 50 541 72 49,600
JESUITS ais cvsretlo saree 2 23 412 16 79,160
Hr Otalse 2 -Seeie sins weet 16 236 2,982 302 46,917 P? 4

1301. Summary of the amount of the alms in wine, oil, and medi-
cines bestowed by His Majesty in Peru on the Dominican, Franciscan,

458 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Augustinian, Mercedarian and Jesuit Orders; the amount in each
case, from which treasury, and the total:

Royal Domini- Fran- Augus- Merce- cee
Treasuries cans ciscans tinians darians Jesuit treasury
eimai tesiostes 5,397 p’ 4 5,230-4 3,518-7 3,446-4 2,0490-1 10,642 ps.4
Hiuamangas fe cca. 528 522 as eats 228 1,278
Cuzco a stemjaeies 088 2,010 1,074 1,016 650 5,738
ATEQUIpa veel a. 620 750 228 718 246 2,562
eam az Aner evel 305 459 603 312 270 1,949
IPOtOSi sees tee 1049-4 1,825-4 1,280 1,778 1,016 6,899
Pwanuco: se... 6 250 250 250 250 Tae 1,000
Ary low.- sits «chee 350 755 676 254 antes 2,010
Wojate wad sutsies 200 200 200 at sete 600
Guayaquil ...... 150 150 150 wae ae 450
@wmitowacora ise 622 832 612 400 250 2,716
Putas) 2.5 staan Stee sieves alot 150 a 150
(Chiles yea ages arse 307 175 sever 669 162 1,403
Buenos Ayres... .... 100 bee 100 100 300
Chachapoyas seem secs 220 aves Skee Boe 220
46,917-4

So that the total amount bestowed by His Majesty in alms to the
religious orders in wine, oil, and medicines comes to 46,917 pesos
of 8 reals each, plus 4 reals, in the items detailed in the above
statement.

CHAPTER XXXII

Explanation of the Following Statement of the Income for the
Viceroy’s Guard Taken from the Annual Payments of the Indians.

1302. Statement of the sums charged against certain repartimientos
of Indians to pay the salaries of the personal guard of Their Honors
the Viceroys of [this] Kingdom of Peru, levied in accordance with
a warrant of His Majesty dated December 28, 1568, in which it was
ordered that this should be taken for the creation of Io enrollments
annually for assignment to the Lancers and Harquebussiers, half to
one and half to the other; this amounts each year to 6,000 assay
pesos of 12} reals each; so the sum necessary for the pay of this
guard for the 10 enrollments mentioned, should be taken and levied
from the Indian tributes and repartimientos, which at present would
appear to be the following:

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

These 6,000 assay pesos of 125 reals each for the 10 enroll-
ments for assignment to the Lancers and Harquebussiers,
aMOUNttONO.375) CUGrent, S-heall peSOSic se). siciee ieee cicls ees cleo se

The tribute of the Yanacona Indians of the imperial town
of Potosi and the Provinces of the Charcas, which, one year
with another, amount to 6,000 assay pesos at 123 reals each,
WICh et SHO 4757 O-Leal epeCSOSes<ccotitis sakes ie ote ons Meee ane oe

The tribute of the Yanacona Indians of the city of La Paz
and its district, which amounts, one year taken with another,
{o42:000; 8-reallipesospmoresc.c ais cmamomeie seid docs coee

In the village of Calamarca, Corregimiento of Caracollo,
in excess (demasias) silver and miscellaneous commodities
from the Repartimiento of Capt. Juan Remon, 218 8-real pesos,
which are collected for the Royal Treasury of the city of La
LUZ a arate Lethe fost oy nape Cer eN a. trac ces elev aneuabare eth usin asks aha usa enusees aes

1303.

In the Repartimiento of Caquiaviri of the Corregimiento of
Los Pacajes, in the excess silver and miscellaneous commodi-
ties of Capt. Juan Remon, collected by the Royal Officials of
A AZ eats ceocesopatctavcayschcro apace eks Oe ep ncn ae

In the Repartimiento of Machaca la Chica (Machaca Ca-
chica ?), which is in this Corregimiento de Los Pacajes, in
silver and miscellaneous commodities to the account of the ex-
cess income of Juan Ramon (!), collected by these Royal
CO) FITTS erates reeves eh crihes oes Peke hehehe oh siete heals PENS A) rere eialoare

In the Repartimiento of Sorata, Corregimiento of Carecaja,
in the excess income of Capt. Juan Remon, collected by these
OVallig @ ficial Sew, meee eee tae rec cle note conkaie cs hexorskahittoa terse

In the parishes of Santiago and San Pedro outside the walls
at the city of La Paz, being the excess income of Capt. Juan
NEMO yer ere Arete roe Die oem icon eres ea ees

1304.

In the Repartimiento of Paucarcolla in silver and mis-
cellaneous commodities, 2,500 pesos collected by these Royal
Oilieial SAO pelea, wa zie eer csi ot eich Ris akc, eeaaiwic Meats. ele disse Gae'e

In the Repartimiento of Achamarca, which is in the district
of Condesuyo and collected by the Royal Officials of Arequipa,
witha the promtsom COMMOMItIES. 2.1.20. < come ence vaeceeees ss

Half of the Repartimiento of Los Lucanas and Andamarcas,
collected by the Royal Officials of Huancavelica, and worth...
In the Repartimiento of Ceymebamba, which is in the Corre-
gimiento of Cajamarquilla, district of Chachapoyas, and col-
lected by these Royal Officials in silver and commodities......

459

Pesos of 8 reals

9,375

95375

2,000

218

453

1,000

163

546

2,500

20,081

1,400

ps.

ps.

ps.

20,968

ps.

ps.

p°

ho

no

reals

reals

460 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

So that the appointments of this Foot Guard of Their Honors
the Viceroys of Peru [of this Kingdom], come to 27,776 pesos and
2 reals, 8-real pesos, according to the appointments above detailed.

1305. List and statement of the annuities (juros) imposed by
provisions of His Lordship the Viceroy Conde del Villar, by virtue
of His Majesty’s warrant at 5 mills (el V U) to the thousand
(millar), on this his Royal Treasury of the city of Lima; they are
paid out by it to the repartimientos and Indian villages of the
district of this Royal Circuit Court and to the Administrator General
in their name; below will be mentioned all those to whom the entire
current annuities have been paid up to the end of last year, 1607,
and the rest is due them from January 1, 1608, up to the present
day ; and the amount belonging to each village annually is as follows:

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 401

Assay To the Indians of Lurigancho, Guachipa, Reals
and Nana; they have an income each year
Olas OOmteal Semen eter tosileisvversctets screlorerele.sio%e 360 reals
To the Hananguancas Indians of the Jauja
Walley iS 4oereal Seeereysciciche foricteretsiaieis erste e1-rl 540 reals
To the Huringuancas Indians of the Jauja
Walley. 2) 160s Call Sey .ierepeccieforcnerereiciereielelaiels os 2,160 reals

To the Indians of La Magdalena, 540 reals 540 “
To the Mangas and Laraos Indians, 540

TOcAl Saher erode epspeete ees iste otal usr avacevetstahota wiave erencre, 540 “
The Indians of Huarca and Maranga, 720
Oa See een ote tne falsknetete seve) ete terolley esis 720°
The Indians of Vegueta, the same........ 720) ais
The Indians of Lunahuana, the same..... 720 eG
His Majesty’s Yauyos Indians, 720 reals.. 720) ine
The Lampas and Ocros Indians, 540 reals. 5AOn ur
The Chincha Indians, 360 reals.......... 300s
The Indians of Huamantanga, the same.. 300) sae
The Indians of Lafiasca, 540 reals....... 5AOM se
The Indians of Andahuaylas, 360 reals... 360)
The Indians of Machay, the same........ 260) ee
1306.
The Indians of Tarma, the same......... 360. =
The Indians of Jayanca, 900 reals........ goo “
The Hananguancas Indians of Jauja,
E252 TEAS e Bae ee coe a saie os Safes 6 Sus Sane 1252t5
The Huringuancas Indians of the Jauja
Walley. ro merenealsn gx. es. sre. selec sie ae 2,224 “
The Canta Indians) 1-368 reals.........- 1-30Cme
Topaz ts 5 2. The Guachipa Indians receive each year
ES pesos. 7 tOMINES 75 TANOS. 2 s..0:< </.15e1- oc 5s
Vso 1p 2 t° 5 ¢* The Hananguancas Indians of Jauja, 180
pesos 2 tomines 5 granos, assay, and 720
Teal Seema Mere iee he eee eee tieras eicieve Meher ss 720
14 p. The Huringuancas Indians of that valley
have an income each year of 14 assay pesos
FEA CANS A Reine Matec a acai ate re eiivinig © u's lornee 7200
60) p: 72 t° TOber: The Atunjauja Indians of that valley, 60
pesos 2 tomines I0 granos, assay, and 360
TEAL Sra e cre ie eae eters ewe ever o eisile aiaatveeucceae 3001) &
36 p. The Mancos and Laraos Indians, 36 assay
PESOSPAatided SOmteal Speers ayeels sicisteratels oforetercte © 180.
J2epu Zito 67 Si. The Ica Indians belonging to Don Juan
Dabalos de Ribera, 72 pesos 2 tomines 7
PGAMOSUASSAVE Le eteeioe x Helen tabs s lero. ofeva MHA

BOTADsi7 ite 2agTs 17,6254 reals

462 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1307, .
Reals
25 Di gut: 29% His Majesty’s Yauyos Indians receive an
annual income of 25 pesos 3 tomines 2
Cranos, Cassay' ace ee eee Oe
Ziipaeets zon The Lanpas, Ocros, Cacahuasi, and Pucu-
rucha Indians have an annual income of 31
pesos I tomin 7 granos, assay, and 252
TEAS res ok als SOT eee 252 reals
77. Gt 10 The Indians of Comas and Carabayllo, 77
pesos 3 tomines 10 granos, assay, and 252
Peal So Sinead alert ee A ae eae 202
53 p. 4- 6 The Indians belonging to Juan de Barrios,
53 pesos 4 tomines 6 granos, assay..........
I4 p. I- The Indians of La Barranca, 14 pesos I
fOMIM, ASSAY. ctor eccie:s Bere hie oe eva orate
The Indians of Lurigancho, 1,080 reals... 1,080 “
The Indians of La Magdalena, 50 current
PESOS). ee. aisre,ceae cw, Sma tus erslel nerpeker euecahelietehsecla ened 450) >
The Indians of Chuquitanta and Sciullay,
TAA TOAIS: (sc, chow. tm ryeneeitremeis ceo eaRe ene reer TAAy es
1308.
The Indians of Vegueta, 252 reals........ 202k ies
The Indians of Guachaca and Maranga,
300 Reals. cous Sak oot eee ante teria 360) a
The Checras Indians, 4574 reals.......... 457i “
The Indians of Lunahuana, 360 reals..... SO0lmn i
The Huamantanga Indians, 144 reals..... TAA
The Guanchoguailas Indians, 324 reals... BOA ae
The Mama Indians, 540 reals........... SAOm a
The Indians of the Pisco Valley, 144 reals. 144 “
360 — The Chocorvos Indians, 177 reals....... 1773 “
The Canta Indians, 360 reals:.....°......: 200) in
The Indians of Coayllo and Calango, 197
PEAS yen cayavovarsuctor onsets rads tere cenennncicrepe ele ore hate LO7 an =
To the Indians of Andax belonging to
Dona Lucta de: Montenegro. ss). 360. ye T0865 re
589 p. 5 to. 2 gr. 24,1564 reals

according to the above, which is presented in fuller detail in the

annuity (censos) book in the Royal Auditor’s office (Contaduria)

for the accounts of the year 1599, to which we refer, and we have

signed it in Lima on May 3, 1600.

Don Juan Manuel —_ Diego de Meneses Francisco de la Guerra
de Anaya y Cespedes (witness ?)

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 403

CHAPTER XX XIII

Of the Peruvian Courier Stages.
1309. Table of the villages, days’ journeys, and leagues, from this
city to the town of Potosi and city of La Plata.

From elimartorsanta Ines. so esses ee

on

rom Santa Ines'to Sicicayacne ae sse ets 5
Hrombsicicaya toy Chirrillosws. ons ses sass 5

Krom!) Chirrillosito: Hiuarochiri; 0320.0... 5
Eromptuarochiritojaujaeessensiet es oo: 20

leagues From Jauja Tambo to Huancayo......... a
Brom) EuancayotovAcos. case sacie es oda: 6
Hrom/Acos to Eluancavelicasa. acess oe « 9

From Huancavelica to Castrovirreina...... 14

ROMA COSatOm Esl COLsm a tomicioriis sieve ea 7
Hrom@leiContomeanCOk acre cele cers ciel store 8

75 From Parco to Saneano’s cases essing «nee os i
From Sangaro to Guamanga.............. 5

75

Patacones
(silver dollars)

So that there are in all 75 leagues, as appears, and 15 posts, with
the 2 up on the puna, which are not shown here; at a real every day,
each post amounts to 45 patacones I real per annum, and altogether
698 patacones which are expended.

1310.

From Guamanga to Tambillo.............
From Tambillorto: Valease sei «052 sce 2

Brom, Huancarina to Abancay...o25......
BromeAbancayato Curahtast.........-4-<.
From Curahuasi to Limatambo...........
From: Limatambo, to*Guzc0.... o... << s+ ««:-

ky
=
o
=}
~
Ee
~
a.
>
=n
=
2
a
yn
ar
fo)
-
=
_
Q
iy)
a
3
~
© CW AN AD AU

From Guamano (sic) to Cuzco there are 9 posts,
wich att real per diem amount to...<........ 416 patacones

”

Ty delet

404 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1311.
From Cuzco to Quispicanche............. 3
From Quispicanche’ to Urcos...2$....00.... 8
From Urcos to..Ouiquitana =. ..t4 see cee 3
From Quiquijana to Cangalla............ 5
From, Cangalla ‘to ‘Cachainsss.< sere vote te 4
From! (Cachasto, Aziguane... sent ciemceces 3
From Aziguane to Lurucachi............. 3
From Eurucacht to 'Chungara... 4. oe cee 7
From Chungara to Ayavitl.... 2:00.20 6
Brom’ Avaviri, to Pucards.c.eesmoccer ce 5
Prom -Pucara’ to. Nicaciove, ae.40c- sone 4
Brom Nicacio:to) uliacay ie na..es meee ee 5
From Juliacarto, Acalacoe.a.-s.6e eee 2
From ‘Acalaco: to Paucarcolla... ce so. ener 4
From) Paucarcolla to (Puno. -eee toes 2
From Puno to Chuctutoees.. vc eateieeee 3

So that there are in this district 16 posts, with 1,114 pat.
IO more between this apartment at Chucuito and
the city of San Marcos de Arica; at a real a day,

that comes to’ 1,173. patacones: ..heitevacea. ces 1,173 ‘pat.
1312.

198
From ‘Chucuito ‘to Acora:..s..2.. sens.) se 2
From. Acora. to: lavessa.. 2 eee eee 4
From Have stoi Juliics pass deel eeactoronr sce 4
FrompjulistowPomata: ssaeiecc emcee 3
Krom Pomatasto.Zepitasasstece sees sect 5
From Zepita to Huaqui<..3.2,.82. see none 5
From Huaqui ito’ Tiahuanacom 335-32: 3
From Tiahuanaco to ajar. so. onaudees 4
From aja toiChuquiagonss +e see eee 3

231

So that in this district there appear to be 9
posts which at a real a day come per annum to... 406 pat.

WHOLE VOL.

1313.

From Chuquiago to Calamarca........... 6
From Calamarca to Ayo Ayo............. 4
Kron AyO Ayo) tO) SiCasiCa. conse see «2 ee 7
HromeSicasicasto) Wal Vientillam. sec. ce ee 3 6
From a’ Ventilla to Caracollo..:. 022... 5
From Caracollo to Las Sepulturas........ 7
From Las Sepulturas to La Venta del Medio 6
From La Venta del Medio fo Las Pefas... 8
Fromi Las’ Penas to las Vizeachas: <7... 2. a,
From) as Vizcachas to’ La Wagunilla- 7. <- 6
From La Lagunilla to La Quebrada....... 4
From La Quebrada to Alcocalla.......... 6
BrompAllocalla, (ste); topPotosts sc. s...4-- 7

So that there are 13 posts in the above district,

which, at a real a day, total per annum.........
1314.

To go from La Venta del Medio to Chayanta.... 8
Bonita, EHrom Ghayanta to.la’ Ventilla....3.2..0... 5
Riatas, roma Ventilla to Pocoata.......... «.. - 3

Erommbocoata ator Miachaaaa.. ceess 2 oes - 3
Brom Machanto.Caracata. oes ice ese s-c 9
From Caracara to Moro Moro............ 5
From! Moro: Moro:to La, Plata...........-- 8

So that in this district there are 7 posts,
which at I real per diem, amount in a year

HO fee 3

31

ere te Ase he kere oi 216 p:

BAS p74 tS:

THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

586 p.4

2,481 p.4

3,595 P- 4

465

406

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1315. From this city to that of Arequipa:

Brom) MimattosPachacamac:. a...-.ceceetee
Krom Pachacamac to: Chilcan. 4. csesete cee
Brom’) ChilcastowMialaisa-).a.0es ota eerie
From Mala to the Tambo de Asia.........
From the Tambo de Asia to Cafete.......
Brom, Ganeterto: Chinchas -cnrsvsemiac eter
Brom Chincha sto (Pisco essere eee
From Pisco'to Vaillacumine:. Sai. ose ae
From: Villacury to leas... ese ccm
Krom ca’ to dea, Vientillacce.. cece
From La Ventilla to HHuayurice... s5..---:
From Huayuri to La Ventilla del Ingenio. .
From La Ventilla del Ingenio to La Nasca.
From: Ja, Nascarto Acatim: oq4- eee eee
From “Acari to Jaqul.a2.hcas eee eee
From. Jiaquisto. Atiquitpasmec: sence esl
From Atiquipa to. Chalanjeacrercniass recreate
Bron Chala? fol eAticott accents anaes
From Aticoto° Ungeolne-sa:wonseateeecee
From Ungolpe to Uncono.....-2.. ese. «60
Erom Uncono tox Gamana..ss sc cise sie rset
Bront Camana tox@uilcaeece ase ennai
From-<Ouilca toe Padraqiuts cnec es ciiereisertet.
From? Padraqui! to’ VitOne ne ane ss ei eieiene ers
Hrom Vitor to Arequipanc. s.caciees «cere

rar
Co Gh Oi Cnt WO Gm NP Grn Gr NO: ON G0 1G) CS tn

arene cans os

H
On
N

From Lima to Arequipa there are 157 leagues
and 27 posts, with 2 to be added in the desert,
which at $ real a day amount to 34 patacones
4 reals a year for each post, and all together, 931 p.

310
OI

1316. Down to Quito.

rom, lima, tos€arabavyllos «ccc ciclsie cre se ele
From) (Carabayllo to, Chancaye..ccisecs «+ ee
From: @hancay: to ‘Eiuautace.cs se os ooo ete
From Huaura ‘to: La Barrancaesc. secs -
From La Barranca torbluarmey....-......
From Huarmey to Casma la Alta.........
From Casma la Alta to Bonbacho (sic)...
From Guanbacho (sic) to Santa:......-..

931 Pp.

4,526 p. 4

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 467

Fromeoatita: tos Gianlaper« scl: sates ts Ware II
Krom) (Guatiape toy DBrujillo.y.i.c0..- sew - 7
Brommbruillontoyeaiianesnccn ee ence es 9
From Paijan to San Pedro de Lloc........ 7
From San Pedro de Lloc to Pueblo Nuevo. 4
Krom Pueblo, Nuevo: to. Satia’... (0. ...04.5% 5
From Safia to Lambeyeque............... 8
From Lambayeque to Morroco........... 5
Brom Morrocos toy, Sechura sas... sectasio eed 3
Prom Sechuravtoy ital y.tnnaece ieee oe 30
Eironaeeitica to vaitalcisy: toes mieten enna tetie 10

163

So that there are 163 leagues and 19 posts,
which, at ? real each per diem, and 34 patacones
4 reals a year, and 1 at 40, amount to 660 p.
MICAS SY a cies aie ac rape oe a tau Sythe! Lie lenene hegl 660 p.4 660 p.4

5;187 -p: 4

From Paita to the city of Quito.
1317. From Piura to Quito there are

30 posts, each costing II patacones and

2 reals per annum, which comes to

BO ite cha sessile cides Gate Malena B37 cp.
From Paita to Manta there are 8

posts; these are paid only on courier

days ; these 8 posts cost 10 patacones on

the days the courier passes through,

which happens 12 times a year, thus

amounting to 120 patacones:. 2 +./2;,.'s 120° p.
From Guayaquil to Riobamba, which

is where one joins the Quito King’s

Highway, there are 7 posts, and these

also are paid only on courier days ; each

courier trip through them costs 3 pata-

cones and the year’s trips will amount

NCO APD tester ans treaties, i Ais) mie dehe says a haite Ss 60 p.

517 P. 517 P.
So that the cost for the Chasque In-
dians for 1 year over all this kingdom
SUIS PUP OMS 704; MAataCOMES. «5 se sive codecs ee es 5,704 Pp.

468 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

1318. Statement of the guaranteed sums (fianzas) offered by Don
Diego de Carvajal in the following places and localities:

In the city of ‘Guamanga.:..%.'5. S20. 400 p.
Inthe: citysOf CuzcOrmsnmcac vests tne a 2,500 p
In'-the city-of Chiteuitoi.-).'.-. oftelrocts 100 p
In’ theveitysot (OL. sew ce s'est 500 p
Iin':thercitywofslarbaziwi-n ts siscctierctestatcle 600 p.
Inthe: city of Potosi. sc\2<.c.<.0sidtiowinn 2,000 p.
In::theicitysot Wea Platarcs aeiyerscictece stele 800 p
In the'city, obtArequipa::.):'-.<j4..-5 or 300 p. Patacones, which
Int thiscity ob Matias. ss. .43-2e ese 2,000 p. areof8reals each
excess 9,200 Pp. 9,200 Pp.

496 p.

[So that] Guarantees are given for the above 5,104 P.
places and localities, of 9,200 patacones, and there 3,000 P.
is an excess of 496 over what Don Diego de 8,104 p.
Carvajal is under obligation to pay each year.... 496 p.

1319. In the cities and localities where Don Diego de Carvajal
offers guarantees, some have the offices farmed out, and some
have administrative offices. Those with offices farmed out (arrenda-
miento) are:

Guamanga
Cuzco
Oruro
Potosi

Jai Plata

Those with administrative offices are:

Chucuito
at Paz
Arequipa
Lima

1320. The places and localities where there are communal expenses
(aprovechamiento) are:

In Chincha, they pay the Chasque Indian 34 p. 4..... 34 p. 4
In Ganete;: dos: cess sow dod overcitoustoitus siete tel oetevetanie eke 34 p. 4
Tn Tea sds sarc ce canescens eeete crete orieieiaicrhere 34 p. 4
Tnvla Nascasdotsee acetate eine ice tereketere 3A pa A
IneA cantvid oe acre ees aie tie retaie se mslcte ata eiette sae tees foe 34 p. 4
In; Huancavelica, itwOns se see bee oe eke: go p. 2
In Castrovirreina Ones .)-eane ecco ce cere 45 p: 1
In: Cochabamba mone sawciecrericteis cites inte rocelolvereree 45 p. I

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 469

CHAPTER XXXIV

Of the 15 Corregimientos and the Curates in the District of the
Archdiocese of Lima.

1321. The Corregimientos in the district of this Archdiocese are:
Fl Cercado, Cafiete, Ica, Yauyos, Jauja, Chancay, Canta, Santa,
Huarochiri, the city of Leon de Huanuco, Tarma, and Chinchaycocha,
Huamalies, Huailas Conchucos, Cajatambo, noting that the Corregi-
miento of the town of Santa, all it possesses on the other side of the
river to the N., belongs to the Diocese of Trujillo. These 15 Corregi-
mientos of the district of the Archdiocese comprise [112] 113 curacies
of clerics and 77 of friars, altogether 179 curacies, distributed as
follows:

1322. In the city of Lima and the Corregimiento of El Cercado
within it, 18 curacies, 12 of clerics: 4 in the Cathedral, 2 in the parish
of Santa Ana, 2 in that of San Sebastian, 1 in San Marcelo, another
in the port of Callao, another in Pachacamac, another in Lurigancho ;
5 friars, and 1 Jesuit Father; 1 in Surco, another in La Magdalena,
Franciscan, another in Surquillo, another in Late, another in Cara-
bayllo, Mercedarian, and in the Indian village of Santiago in El
Cercado, a Jesuit Father.

Corregimiento of Ica: 13 curates, 11 clerics: 2 in the town of Ica,
the others in La Nasca, in Palpa, in El Ingenio, in Hananica, in
San Juan, Pisco, La Magdalena de Pisco, Chunchanga, and another
for Spaniards in Chunchanga, a Franciscan Father in Lurinica, and
a Dominican in Umay.

1323. Corregimiento of Cafiete: 8 curates: 4 clerics, in the town of
Cafiete, Chilca, and Cala, Lunahuana, Pacaran; 4 friars, one Fran-
ciscan for the Indians of Cafiete, another in Coayllo, and Calango;
2 Dominicans in Chincha for Indians and Spaniards, although in this
village there is already another cleric as curate for the Spaniards.

Corregimiento of the town of Arnedo, and Chancay: 8 curates,
7 of them clerics: I in the town of Arnedo, another in Carrion de
Velasco, another in Huacho, another in La Barranca, another in
Pacho, another in iguari, another in El] Ancén; and a Dominican in
Aucallama.

1324. Corregimiento of the town of Santa: 8 curates, clerics: 2 in
the town of Santa, 1 in Huarmey and Guambacho, another in El
Ingenio de Valdés, another in Pativilca, another in Totopon, and
El Ingenio; and 2 Dominicans in Casma la Alta and la Baja, and
Moro, and Quiquis.

Corregimiento of Canta: Io curates: 4 clerics, in Canta, Paria-
marca, and Obraje, San Juan de Quibi, Atabillos; and 6 Merce-

470 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

darians, in Lampian, Pacaraos, Huamantanga, and San Buenaventura,
Cauxo and Bombon.

1325. Corregimiento of the Province of Jauja Valley: 15 curates:
8 Franciscans, in La Concepcion, San Jeronimo, Matahuasi, Comas,
and Andamayo, Apata, Orcotuna, La Ascencion, Sincos; and 7 Do-
minicans, in Huancayo, La Sapallanga, Cochangara, Los Chongos
Paucarbamba, Chupaca, Sicaya.

,

Corregimiento of the Province of Yauyos: 8 curates, Dominicans,
in the villages of San Juan de Viscas, Omas, Mancos, Hatun Yauyos,
Laraos, Aymaraes, Mancos, Guaneque.

Corregimiento of the city of Huanuco: 4 curates, 3 for Spaniards
and 1 for Yanaconas.

1326. Corregimiento of Huarochiri: 10 curates, clerics, in the
villages of Huarochiri, Chorrillos, San Lorenzo, San Damian, San
Juan de Matucana, and San Jerénimo de Surco, San Mateo de Huan-
chay, Carampoma, Chala, San Pedro de Casta, Mama.

Corregimiento de Huamalies: 8 curates, 4 clerics: in Pachasllacta,
Pariarca, Mancha-Huarigancha; and 4 Mercedarians, in Huacrachuco,
Los Banos, Jests Maria, Arancay.

1327. Corregimiento of Tarma, and Chinchaycocha: 21 curates, 15
clerics: 2 in Lima, and the rest in Ninacaca, Huancabamba, Ullcu-
mayo, San Juan de Los Condores, Michivilca, Chaupi Guarangas,
Yaros, Vicoypasco, Paucartambo, Carhuamayo, San Juan de Huariaca,
San Rafael and Mosca, Tapomichivilca; the 6 remaining curates are
friars: 1 Dominican in Acobamba; a Mercedarian in Caina; 4 Fran-
ciscans in Chupacos, San Cristobal, Mitimas, Queros.

Corregimiento of Cajatambo: 13 curates, 12 clerics: in Cajatambo,
Huailillas, Ocros, Machaca, Ticllos and Cajamarca, Collana de Lam-
pas, Mangas, Gorgor, Ambar, Cochamarca, Cajacay; and in Navan
and Barrio, a Mercedarian friar.:

1328. Corregimiento of Conchucos: 14 curates, 10 clerics: in
Corongo, Tauca, Huandoval, La Payasca, Siguas, Piscobamba, Llapo,
Llamellin, San Luis de Huari, Chacas and its Obraje (Mill) ; 2 Do-
minicans, in Santo Domingo de Huari, and in Huantar and Chavin ;
and 2 Mercedarians, in Collanapincos, and Ichopincos.

Corregimiento of the Province of Huailas: 19 curates, 11 clerics:
2 in Huaras, and the others in Recuay, Marca, Pararin, Cotaparaco,
Sucha, Pampas, Pira and Cajamarca, Chaucayan, and Minas de
Caras; and 8 Dominicans, in Yungay, San Pedro de Caruas, San
Ildefonso de Caras, Santo Domingo de Huailas, Macate, Mitimas,
Guasaticras, Santa Ana.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 471

CHAPTER XXXV [38, 36]

Describing the District of the Archdiocese of Lima.

1329. The Circuit Court [District] of Lima holds jurisdiction on
the N. over the Diocese of Trujillo, its boundary against the Circuit
Court and Diocese of Quito running along the Rio de Calva, in
4°20’ S. On the S. it comprises the Dioceses of Guamanga, Cuzco,
and that of Arequipa, in whose jurisdiction it borders or touches
on that of the Circuit Court of the Charcas in the Moquegua Valley
in 17°30’ S., over 30 leagues S. of Arequipa; the river flowing down
this valley from the sierra separates the jurisdictions of the Circuit
Courts of Lima and the Charcas [and the rest of the Diocese of
Arequipa, viz, the port of Arica and its jurisdiction, belong to the
Circuit Court of the Charcas. |

1330. The Archdiocese of Lima has nine suffragan Dioceses: on
the N., the Diocese of Trujillo, that of Quito, that of Panama in
the Spanish Main, that of Nicaragua in New Spain, district of Guate-
mala; to the S. it has Guamanga, Cuzco, Santiago de Chile, and that
of La Concepcion, which is what used to be La Imperial, and is the
fortified post which His Majesty possesses in that Kingdom [of
Chile].

1331. The Archdiocese has wide jurisdiction, along the seacoast
on the plains where it never rains, over 140 leagues, from the Santa
Valley, in 9° S., where it borders on the Diocese of Trujillo, to the
La Nasca Valley in full 15° S., where it borders on the Acari Valley,
which belongs to the Diocese of Arequipa. In the center of these
plains is the city of Lima, at 12° S. From Lima N. to Santa there
are very fertile valleys [which have been described, where] in which
they harvest great amounts of wheat, corn, chickpeas, peanuts,
pallares, kidney beans, and many other cereals, both Spanish and
indigenous, and many varieties of fruit, both Spanish and _ native,
like melons, cucumbers, which are excellent, and the other kinds
described; there are very good sugar plantations and mills where
much sugar is made, and some vineyards and olive groves ; and while
there are stretches of land in these plains that are uninhabitable
for the heat and lack of water, it is certain that where the rivers
come down out of the sierra through the valleys and settlements
[in them], this is the best bit of land that God has created on earth,
for lavish fertility [and enjoyment]. The greater part of the products
grown in these valleys is exported in ships and frigates to the port
of Callao for the provisioning and maintenance of the city of Lima.

472 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1332. Going S. from the city, one finds many valleys, like that
of Pachacamac 5 leagues distant, where the Indians had the greatest
sanctuary in those Kingdoms in the days of their heathendom; there
is much cattle raising and agriculture. Then comes the village of
Chilca, where they have neither running stream nor rain; but in the
depressions in the sand there are excellent grapevines, and the sand
is damp enough for them to plant corn in it, in the heads of sardines,
which they call anchovetas here, and the heads of other fish, of which
there are quantities in that sea [and along that coast, and they fish
for them, and get great hauls] and in this way they have excellent
crops. The Indians of this village of Chilca get their drinking water
from jagiieyes, which are the same as wells. Then comes the Mala
Valley which [likewise] has plenty of water; farther on is the town
of Cafiete, 22 leagues S. of Lima. It was founded by the Marqués
de Cafiete in the year 1560 in the Guarco Valley, where they raise
large amounts of wheat [and] corn with other cereals and fruit;
there are some vineyards, the valley being very large [and] extensive
and amply supplied with water. The town lies about half a league
from the ocean ; opposite is the village of Lunahuana, on the bank of
this imposing river; it is a pleasant excursion point, with excellent
Spanish fruit ; the quinces and pomegranates are very good. Beyond
this to the S. there is another small valley with a few vineyards;
then comes the famous Chincha Valley, so renowned in its prosperous
days for the large numbers of inhabitants and its great fertility.
Today there is only a [large] Indian village there and a few Spaniards,
with a Dominican convent; since they bring down the quicksilver
from Huancavelica here, His Majesty has stationed a Factor at
this point to supervise its [shipment and] export to the port of Arica
for Potosi, Oruro, and the other mines in the upland country.

1333. This Chincha Valley is 9 leagues from that of Cafiete; it is
5 to the port and town of Pisco, to the S.; the town is built at the
water’s edge. From there it is 12 leagues to Ica, through very fertile
valleys, where they produce over 800,000 jugs of wine [and when
I describe the Corregimientos I shall speak of their remarkable
features]. Fourteen leagues beyond Ica to the S. is the Huayuri
Valley, and next to it, other valleys thinly settled, with a few cattle
ranches along their streams. Eight leagues farther on is the valley
of El Ingenio (Mill) de La Nasca, where they produce over 70,000
jugs of wine which is among the best produced in that Kingdom. All
the vineyards are grouped in a tract stretching 3 leagues up the valley ;
the owners live beside them, each in his own personal establishment.
This valley is 12 leagues from the sea, to which they take their wine

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 473

for export through the port of Caballos; the Caballos export is for
Lima, but the greater part is freighted through the sierra on Ilama-
back for Guamanga, Cuzco, and other points. It is called Valle del
Ingenio (Mill Valley) because in the early days of the exploration
of that Kingdom they built a very large sugar mill there; for the
plantation work and the mill operations they had over 300 Negroes
and 500 Indians; it was a very large enterprise. But when they
began planting vineyards later, it fell off, and at present there is
nothing left but the name of it there. Beyond this valley is that of
Cajamalca, called of La Nasca, which is the last in the Archdiocese
and [along the coast] borders on the Diocese of Arequipa in the
Acari Valley, which is 18 leagues from La Nasca; on the sierra side,
[it touches] the Province of Los Lucanas in the Diocese of Guamanga.
In this valley they produce over 30,000 jugs of the best wine in that
Kingdom, although the valley is very short of water, and often when
the grapes are ripening they offer prayers to God for rain in the
sierra, so that their stream may have water enough to irrigate the
vineyards and crops. In this valley is located a town with Spanish
residents, where there is a parish church with a curate and a vicar
to administer the sacraments to the Spaniards and Indians and give
them instruction; it has likewise a small Augustinian convent.

1334. In the sierra it has several [very] rich and thickly settled
provinces ; with these and the plains there are 16 of the Corregimientos
in the [district of the] Archdiocese; Ica is the only one where the
Council appoints ; 15 have appointments made by the Viceroy. Nine
of them are: that of the town and valley of Hancay; Guara; Santa
in the plains; and that of the Province of Canta, all of which lie
to the N. of the city of Lima; that of Huarochiri, that of Jauja and
that of the Yauyos to the E. of the city; Cafiete and that of Ica to
the S., and El Cercado, which is close to the city. The other six
belong in the district of the city of Leén de Huanuco, and are: one
to which the Viceroy appoints, in the city; that of Tarma, and
Chinchaycocha, to the S. of the city of Huanuco; the Corregimiento
of Los Huamalies, that of Cajatambo, that of the Huailas Valley,
and that of Conchucos; all lie to the N. of this city of Ledén de
Huanuco.

1335. To the N. at 9 leagues from the city lies the Chancay Valley
where there has been a town ever since the days of the Conde de
Nieva; about 100 Spaniards live there, with [very] large farms
in wheat and corn; there are a few vineyards and olive groves. The
Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for the administration of this town
and valley; it is admirably supplied with everything necessary. It
has a parish church and Dominican convent.

474 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

In the Huaura Valley, which is rich in sugar plantations, farms,
and cattle ranches, there is another Corregidor.

1336. The town of Santa is 70 leagues N. of Lima, and is the last
coast city in the Archdiocese; here it borders on the Diocese of
Trujillo. It was founded by the Marqués de Cajfiete in the year 1561
in its splendid valley, where they raise much corn, wheat, and other
cereals. It has a reasonably good harbor, where its products are
exported, both for supplying the city of Lima and for Panama. It
has a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy [to govern it and its
district. |

1337. In the Province of Huarochiri, which is E. of Lima up the
river, are the villages of Carampoma and many others [of this
province and jurisdiction, where] There are large cattle ranches,
silver mines, and some milling enterprises. The Viceroy appoints
a Corregidor [in this province] for its satisfactory administration.
It abounds in excellent farm products and fruit.

Adjoining the Province of Huarochiri is the Province of Canta,
where there are excellent silver mines and much cattle, both of
Spanish and native varieties; it is richly supplied with everything.
The Viceroy appoints another Corregidor here [for its good govern-
ment and the protection of the Indians].

CuHaPTER XXXVI [37, 39]

Of the Splendid Valley and Province of Jauja.

1338. The splendid Jauja Valley lies almost 40 leagues E. of Lima,
in the heart of the Cordillera; it is 9 leagues long, [runs] N. and S.,
and at its widest point, a league across, more or less. It has a cold
climate, and raises large crops of corn and wheat. A river runs
through the center of the valley which rises up on the Bombon puna
(they call the very cold country puna in this country, in Chachapoyas
xalca, in Quito and New Granada paramo). Rising in these punas,
it flows through all this valley and passes through the Huanta Valley
close to Guamanga, running through the heart of the territory of
Peru; together with others, it becomes the Maranon. In this valley
there are 15 [very] fine large Indian villages, with two Dominican
priorates; one is Hatunjauja, the first in the valley going N. and
4 league away, where the tambo is today; here the city of Lima was
originally founded [but although this is such a grand valley, Marqués
Don Francisco Pizarro had the better idea to leave it one side for
the famous port of Callao]. This priorate has two villages under
it, Huaripampa and Yauyos. At the S. end of the valley is the other

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 475

priorate, in the village of Huancayo; it has under it the villages of
Sicaya and [that of the] Chongos, which is close to the sierra; both
are on the other side of the river, W. of Huancayo. Near the river
is the village of Sapallanga, where there is an excellent cloth and
grogram mill. At the end of the valley is the village of La Mejorada,
with another cloth and grogram mill which belongs to the nuns of
the Lima convent of La Concepcion. At the S. end of the Jauja
Valley is a small stream which separates the jurisdictions of the
Archdiocese of Lima and the Diocese of Guamanga; in the center
of the valley there are seven more villages, under the religious instruc-
tion of the Franciscans. On the E. side of the river are the villages of
Apata, Matahuasi, San Jeronimo, and La Concepcion, which comes
between them, and is a guardiania (seat of local superior), to which
the others are subordinate, and residence of the Corregidor of this
province and that of the Andes, appointed by the Viceroy. Opposite
this village on the other side of the river on the W. is the village
of Mito, which is a guardiania with two subordinate villages, Sincos
and Orcotuna.

1339. This Jauja Province and Valley is very fertile and prolific,
with abundance of excellent products. They make very good bacon
and ham here, ranking with the best in that Kingdom. [And rich
though it is, prices are very low for] A fowl costs 1 real, 20 eggs
are sold for a real ; everything is on the same scale. The Sierra King’s
Highway passes through the valley on its way from Lima and Quito
to Cuzco, Potosi, and all the upland country. It contains many
artisans of all crafts and many [Indian] silversmiths; these, with
tools very different from ours, manufacture and produce articles
of remarkable delicacy. They do not use hammers but their native
implement, a four-cornered piece of bronze, and with it they turn
out anything they desire; for bellows they use blowpipes. On all
the heights on the W. side of the valley rise many of the ancient
buildings erected by order of the Inca kings, some as fortresses and
others for the storage of corn, potatoes, and other provisions. On
the E. it has the hot country Andes, whose products are brought
to this valley, and where they get coca. This is a low tree with
leaves like myrtle leaves; the Indians value it highly ; with it in their
mouths, they do not feel hunger, thirst, or fatigue; in short, this
plant is for them what tobacco is for its devotees. I consider each
of them a vice and an abuse, while admitting that used temperately
and in moderation, they are wholesome. Along this stretch of the
Andes eastward there are great provinces to be converted to our
Holy Faith, extending to the provinces of Brazil, which are on

476 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the Atlantic along this parallel. All the villages in the Jauja Valley
have [very] fine well-constructed churches, with excellent towers
and bells. Many Spaniards live among the Indians in this valley.
To the N. on the Tarma road near this valley there is another small
one, which will be 2 leagues long and 4 league wide; it contains
some ranches with cattle, swine, and many llamas and merino sheep
[in abundance] ; this little valley runs E. and W. Round about here
there are many stray or wild llamas, the guanacos, similar to the
llamas, but with a muzzle which is darker colored and more nearly
black; these whinny almost like horses. There are likewise great
numbers of vicufias, which are another species of those animals;
they are more slender [and agalgados], with a white belly and wool
finer and softer than silk; they are of a clear gray color, approaching
that of lye-dried raisins. They live up along the snow and search
out the coldest places ; they move in flocks of six or eight, not more,
and are very timid and nimble creatures. When they see someone
passing [(they are very alert)] and take notice of him, they all
put their heads together and the male, who is their leader, sounds
the alarm and off he goes, the rest answer him and follow his exact
trail without veering to one side or the other and in file. After run-
ning a short distance, they stop and take another look; then off they
rush again, and so on.

CuaPTER XXXVII [38, 40]

Of Other Provinces and Valleys in the Archdiocese of Lima.

1340. Adjoining this great Province of Jauja on the WSW. is
that of the Yauyos. This is very rough broken country, with a good
climate, [very] fertile and prolific; they raise much corn, wheat,
and other cereals, with excellent fruit, both of native and Spanish
varieties. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor in this province for
its administration.

1341. W. of this province, on the [rainless] plains and only half
a league from the seacoast, 22 leagues S. of Lima, at scant 13° S.,
is the town of Cajfiete, in the splendid Guarco Valley. It was founded
in the year 1560, at the time when the Marqués de Cafiete was
Viceroy of Peru. The valley is wealthy and prolific; they raise
quantities of wheat, corn, and other Spanish and native cereals;
they have [excellent] vineyards and other plantations or orchards
of native fruit trees and those we have in Europe. [It has great
possibilities for] It is a large valley with excellent land and abundance
of water which they take in irrigation ditches from the large river

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 477

which comes down from Yauyos Province. All their products are
exported on ships and frigates to Lima.

1342. The town of Cajiete has too Spanish residents, with a parish
church, a Franciscan convent and a hospital. Most of the residents
of this town are farmers. In this whole valley there are numerous
ruins of ancient structures, especially along the river bank, where
the buildings demonstrate what a large population there was in those
days, as do the irrigation canals which they constructed to water
their crops. There are some cattle ranches in this valley, for it is
prolific and ample for every purpose. The Viceroy appoints a
Corregidor for this town, who holds attribution also for Chincha,
[which is 9 leagues S. of the town of Cafiete].

1348. The splendid Chincha Valley is in 13°20’ S., 31 leagues
from Lima. It was formerly [in the days of its heathendom] one
of the largest and most thickly settled in the whole Kingdom of Peru.
Its valley is one of the loveliest in all the plains country, but it is
[somewhat] short of water. The village of Chincha is built on the
N. bank of the river. It will contain 500 Indians; there is a Domini-
can convent there, which governs them and teaches them Christian
doctrine. The Spaniards number about 100, with a curate, appointed
by the Archbishop when I was in that Kingdom in the year 1617,
to administer the Holy Sacraments to them. There is a storehouse
[in this village of Chincha or rather, in its valley] there for the
quicksilver which they bring down from Huancavelica, and a Factor
appointed by the Royal Council who has charge of shipping and
exporting it to the port of San Marcos de Arica for the mines of
Potosi, Oruro, Berenguela, Porco, Lipez, and the others in the
upland country. This Chincha Valley was formerly thickly settled
and contained countless Indians, as is demonstrated by the great
ruins of ancient buildings still existing there, and by the accounts of
the historians, for they were rivals of the Inca kings of Peru. There
are [very] sumptuous guacas here, and so many buildings that it
distresses one to see such greatness fallen—as it happened to Xerxes,
when he went up to the summit of a lofty mountain and looked
down and reflected on the huge multitude he had in his army; he
burst into tears; and when one of his courtiers asked him “Why do
you mourn?”’, he answered “Because 100 years from now not a
single one of those whom you see here, will be alive.” One has the
same feeling in contemplating so many vast ruins, not only in this
lovely valley but in them all in Peru; when I went through them,
I was often deeply moved at beholding such grandeur now altogether

478 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

crumbled ; and the saddest thing is that they perished without having
known the true Faith, and that they were in the torments of Hell.

1344, The valley is very broad ; it contains many farms or ranches
of Spaniards and Indians. They grow quantities of wheat, corn, and
other cereals; they raise the largest and finest mates or pumpkins
to be found in all the Indies; in fact, some of them grow so large
that a half pumpkin, or sapallo, as they call them here, is like a large
basin or tub; some are so big that they do their washing in them;
and they carve and paint them with great skill. Up the valley are
vineyards; here they make the largest and best cows’-milk cheeses
[made] in the whole Kingdom. [and they are esteemed all over the
rest in its whole extent; from this valley the Corregidor takes the
title of Cafiete and Chinchas. This must suffice ; I shall now describe
the Corregimiento of Ica.]

1345. Five leagues S. of this Chincha Valley is the splendid
[valley] of the port of La Magdalena de Pisco, at 13°30’ S.; it is
thirty-six leagues from the city of Lima. It is within the hariedician
of the town of Ica, whose Corregidor appoints a deputy here. The
village will contain over 150 Spaniards, and [lies] at the water’s
edge. It is a [very] good harbor, and [many] ships put in to load
wine from its valleys and those of Ica, which are considerable. The
place is one of the richest to be found in all the Kingdom; it is
abundantly supplied with meat, [excellent] fish, bread, and all else
necessary for human life, with great abundance of fruit, of Spanish
and native varieties. It is a modern town, its settlement dating from
only 30 years back; most of the residents are [very] well off. The
parish church, which is named San Clemente, was founded by Licen-
tiate Rosill6, whom I knew there; it is [very] well built and served,
having two curates and many priests usually also in attendance, on
account of the great charity dispensed here. All these priests have
their special farms, where they go and say Mass on feast days.
[ Almost] All the ranches or vineyards have [very sumptuous] houses,
wine presses, and storerooms for the exploitation of their vines, and
there are chapels in all of them for the service contingent and in
particular for the Negro slaves; every ranch has a village made up
of them [for them to hear Mass and so] many of these priests in
attendance at Pisco get [very] good salaries for going to say Mass
at the ranches on feast days. There is a convent of Barefoot Fran-
ciscan Friars, which is outstanding, and would be considered remark-
able, excellent, and devout anywhere in the world. As this place was
growing when I was there [11 years ago], the Jesuits and other
orders were intending to build there.

WHOLE, VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 479

1346. Next the Spanish village is another of Indians, [very fine] ;
this is called La Magdalena, and gives its name to the port. It has
a curate who imparts religious instruction. It is a [very] wealthy
and attractive place. This port has a hospital of the Brethren of
San Juan de Dids for the care of the sick. When I was there a fund
was being raised for the establishment of a convent for nuns.

1347. This valley was originally given to the town of Ica and its
residents for their service, and for them to plant wheat in it and
whatever else they needed; later, by permission of the town, some
vineyards were planted along the river banks. At the present day
it is far superior in fertility and wealth to the town of Ica and its
establishments, although it does not enjoy the title of town or city,
being under the jurisdiction of Ica. The S. wind blows at this port
and in its neighborhood, as everywhere in the Kingdom; and since
there is a very tall mountain range 3 leagues from the port, which
forms a point out to sea, and the range is called Paraca, they call
the wind paraca also [since it comes from that quarter].

CHAPTER XXXVIII [39] (41)

Describing the Extent of the Pisco Valleys.

1348. The river flowing through this splendid Pisco Valley takes
its rise at the Castrovirreina mines, for it originates on those punas ;
and after it has enriched that city with its crystal-clear and silvery
waters, grinding its rich silver ore, in its mills, [over 20 in number],
it runs down to the W. to enrich its fertile valleys with its waters.

Of the vineyard [valleys or] districts belonging to this village of
Pisco, the nearest to the place is that [valley] of Cazalla, where they
produce more than 12,000 jugs of the best and most highly prized
wine [in the whole valley]. On the other side of the river toward the
sea is another district, small but also with vineyards and a sugar
plantation; they raise melons, watermelons, cucumbers, and much
wheat, corn, and other cereals, which make the place rich and
comfortable.

1349. The fertile Condor Valley starts 2 leagues from Pisco, to
the ENE. on the other side of the river. Here there are very large
vineyard districts ; over 100,000 jugs of excellent wine are produced
here alone. Among the winegrowers or vineyard owners, some raise
more than 3,000 (Marg.: 30,000) jugs a year, and so many are
very substantial, and on every farm they have a Negro village for
the exploitation of the vineyards. [And it is to be noted] that every
Negro costs at least 500 pesos, and 600 [50 more or 50 less, according |

480 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

if he is of a good tribe and well built. (Marg.: There will be in
this valley 10,000 Negroes for the care of the vineyards.) Three
leagues beyond this district is another, on the same side of the river,
where they produce over 50,000 jugs of wine; and on the other side,
not much beyond the upper Condor district, is that of Chunchanga,
5 leagues upstream from Pisco, where there is a village composed
of Spaniards, Negroes, and Indians; in this district they produce
over 100,000 jugs of wine [and it is to be remarked that in all this
country it does not rain]; it is all irrigated. Two leagues beyond
this district up the river is another, called Umay, [very] fertile and
prolific; here they produce much wine on both sides [of the river],
and they dry figs in such quantities that a quintal sells for only 16
reals. Four leagues beyond Umay is the fine fertile valley of La
Quinga, which is in the Chaupiyunga, which means land of the best
climate, between hot and cold. Here they gather more than 1,000
quintals of figs, [among] the best and most highly esteemed in that
kingdom, for while a quintal of other figs sells for 16 reals, these
are worth 50 the quintal. Besides all this, they raise much corn, wheat,
and other cereals in abundance in this valley, which makes the [very
fertile] region rich and prosperous. There is likewise a tradition
that the Spaniards planned to build the city of Los Reyes in this
valley near Umay, after they had abandoned Jauja, and they did
establish themselves here for a few days before continuing to where
Lima is at present; I have seen the site and the buildings, and some
of them were still standing.

CHAPTER XXXIX (42)

Of the Villacuri Sinks (Depressions) and Others in the District.

1350. Besides the vineyard districts above described, planted beside
this large river, they take much excellent fish and crayfish from it,
and have built extensive irrigation canals to water their vineyards
and fields; these are most abundant and prolific in their yield, to
such a degree that one of these stocks or vines produces more grapes
than six of those in Spain; and the higher and stronger the vines
grow, the more prolific this land of promise seems in every respect.

1351. There are other varieties of vineyards very different from
these just described, 2 leagues from Pisco. Here they produce more
than 5,000 jugs of wine in the sinks or depressions where there is no
stream and it does not rain, nor has rained nor will rain—the well-
known peculiarity of that country; but the fact is that among those
broad, parched, sandy deserts there are [some] sinks and depressions
whose freshness moistens the sand in them; they have planted grape-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST I NDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 481

vines there and these have produced with such prolific abundance
that it is the foremost grape district in the world, and the wine made
from them is the best and evenest, and so brings a higher price than
any other. This is the way they grow these grapes: as it never rains
there, the earth produces a finger or two of alkali (salitre) on top;
they remove that, and the occasional trees growing on those plains ;
the majority are a desert tree called guarangos ; we call them algarro-
bos, because their beans look like carob (algarroba) beans, although
they are white; they have about the same taste; besides alfalfa,
which in [the whole Kingdom of Peru and especially] in the plains
they grow for mules and horses, they fatten them also on algarroba
or guaranga; [then] with the leaves of this tree [which they gather
and make great piles of], as soon as they have removed the alkali,
they guano (guancar) all the soil, which means they manure it, and
so it is fertilized and yields in such great abundance that it is a
blessing of God. In all these little depressions there are also many
very nice fruit trees—pomegranates, quinces, figs, apples, and all
other Spanish varieties; with nothing but that fertilization, the cool-
ness of the sand, and some dampness which is communicated from
distant rivulets along subterranean veins and the porosity of the sand,
they yield with great abundance. It is worth noting that when the
rivers are full and come down in flood, these depressions where the
vines grow, are not very moist and cool; but when they dry up and
lack water, these sinks are very fresh and damp and even have a
little water. The reason in my opinion is [surely] that when the
rivers come down in flood, the water rushes along roily, muddy, and
full of sediment, and so with its speed and sediment, it does not
percolate through the sand and the veins of the earth and pass on
to these remote sinks. And the reason why they are damp when the
rivers are low is that they flow wiihout flood violence but gently
and, as they say, al amor del agua (borne along downstream), and
the water itself though scant is clear and crystalline, so that it per-
colates through the subterranean veins and passes on to these sinks
in greater volume. There are many other reasons I might adduce
to reinforce this truti, but this must suffice for the explanation of
a fact so unprecedented and which seems contrary to reason.

CHAPTER XL [41] (43)

Of the City of Ica and Its Fertile Vineyard Valleys.

1352. Five leagues from Pisco on the Ica road are the Villacuri
sinks, where the rebel Francisco Hernandez Jiron crushed Pablo de
Meneses and His Majesty’s forces, because they had killed the scouts

32

482 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

who had gone in their pursuit, Capt. Lope Martin and three other
soldiers, in the year 15 (sic). Excellent vineyards flourish in these
sinks also, although it does not rain in this region and there is no
way of irrigating [vineyards] them, the Rio de Pisco being 5 leagues
away from them, and the Rio de Ica over 6; but by treating the soil
in the same way as in the others, they produce more than 4,000 jugs
of the best wine grown in the whole kingdom.

1353. The town of Ica is 12 leagues S. of Pisco and 48 from Lima,
at 13°30’ S., 9 leagues from the sea, on which it has its port of
Morro Quemado, from which the bulk of its wine is exported to
Lima and Arica, although some is freighted to Pisco for shipment.

The town was founded by (Marg.: N.B.: Valverde)
on a sandy plain beside a small stream, whose crystal-clear waters
make the place one of the best irrigated in the Kingdom and keep
its valleys moist and well fertilized. It rises in the sierra, Province
of Los Chocorvos in the Diocese of Guamanga, at its eastern frontier
point ; its waters come dashing down full of delicious fish and cray-
fish. The town has an attractive and pleasant location; its skies are
clear and bracing, and the land ranks high for fertility among all
I saw in the Indies; everything that is planted yields in great abun-
dance the whole year long; the river water is very soft and whole-
some. The town is built on its N. bank; it has over 200 Spanish
residents, plus 8,000 or 10,000 Negroes whom they have for the
care of the vineyards, and many Indians, both from outside (whom
they call Yanaconas) and from two villages near the town, those
of Lurin and Hanan, whose religious instruction is in the hands
of the Franciscans. There is an excellent parish church with two
curates and a vicar, and [very good] Franciscan, Augustinian, and
Mercedarian convents, with other good churches and a hospital where
they treat the indigent sick.

1354. They produce more than 400,000 jugs of wine in its valleys.
Adjoining the town and running N. and S. is the vineyard region
or valley of Garganto, where they make large amounts of wine; it
has many vineyards or chacras, as they call them there. On the other
side of the river to the E. is the extensive Chirana Valley with large
establishments, each with a farmhouse and a winery where they pre-
pare the wines. A league S. of the town, in the midst of large groves
of guaranga trees, is the valley or vineyard district of Ica la Vieja;
and 2 leagues S. there is another valley, small in comparison with
the above, which is called Santa Lucia. ENE. of the town, toward
the Sierra, lie the valleys of San Martin, [of Valrica] and others
nearby, which I will not enumerate, to avoid being too prolix. In

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 483

these they grow this large amount of wine referred to; much is
carried on llamaback through the Province of Los Chocorvos to
Castrovirreina, Huancavelica, Guamanga, and other points. Between
the valley of San Martin and the town there is another valley or
vineyard district which is called San Juan, from an Indian village
close beside it; there also they produce much wine.

1355. This town has an abundant supply of fruit, of both Spanish
and native varieties, the whole year round; they are all of delicious
flavor, on account of the excellent soil, climate, and water ; excellent
melons grow throughout the year, and are among the best produced
in that kingdom; fine large watermelons; and native cucumbers,
which are [much] better and more wholesome than ours. They grow
much garden truck: pumpkins of Spanish origin and the big ones
which they call sapallos there; eggplant, white cabbage, sugarcane,
aji or pepper; in fine, not to weary the reader, this town is one of
the finest tracts of land in the whole world. Up the valley toward
the sierra, before the vineyard district begins, they raise [and harvest |
much wheat, corn, and other cereals and vegetables; and from these
uplands and thereabouts they draw off irrigation canals from the
river—the large one, called the Chirana canal, which waters a num-
ber of valleys and vineyard districts, and other irrigation ditches of
less volume than that mentioned. The grapes begin ripening about
Christmas, and it starts raining about that same time; but it is in
Lent that they are most solicitous about water, when the grapes are
already ripe; at that time plenty of water comes down the river,
and they irrigate the vineyards to give the grapes full [ripeness and]
maturity ; the vintage comes by the end of March, usually by Holy
Week.

CHAPTER XLI [42] (44)

Continuing the Theme of the Preceding Chapter.

1356. All these grapevines grow tall, much like those artificially
trained. The viduefio is a black grape; it bears very heavily. Most
of the vineyards have avenues looking like very tall forcing walls;
at times they form vaults of the vines themselves, or make a sort
of pyramid of them. Their way of handling the grapes to make
wine is very different from what I have seen in Spain, although
agreeing with it in some respects. They cut the grapes; then, having
spread large mats next the house or wine press, they keep them there
in the sun for 2 or 3 days, to wither the green stems. Some then
throw them in the press just as they are; others, who work more
carefully, have large bags of coarse linen or melinge; they fill them

484 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

with grapes, tie them up at the top, and then throw them in the press,
treading the grapes in them; in this way no skins or seeds get out
of the bag, nothing but the must; and so, although all the grapes
are black, the wine comes out white, with an excellent delicate flavor ;
most of it is very fragrant and so strong that you can put 2 pints
of water in a pint of wine and it does not lose its strength and
authority. I might describe other brands of wine and their prepara-
tion, but this will serve as a description of their method.

1357. There is a Corregidor in this town, appointed by the Council ;
he puts a representative in the port of Pisco, which already has pre-
tensions of being a city and throwing off the jurisdiction of Ica.
This [is certain, that the village of Pisco] is one of the best and
wealthiest in the whole Kingdom, and keeps growing every day,
thanks to the extensive commerce it enjoys and the numbers of ships
which put in to load wine. [The Corregidor] sets another deputy
in the Nasca Valley. The town of Ica is all tile-roofed, with excellent
buildings, many mercantile establishments, grocery stores, and a
tambo, like Pisco. There are two fine glassworks there, one in the
town and the other in Ica la Vieja, thanks to the abundance of the
raw material for its manufacture and the [large] amount of wood
for the furnaces.

1358. The land in this region is so good that though the river has
very little water, the valley is one of the largest and best in the whole
Kingdom of Peru; for besides all that has been mentioned, there
are [also] many groves of fig trees, pomegranates, quinces, and
other delicious fruit. It has four potteries which produce plenty of
jugs for all the vineyard owners, and their proprietors are the
wealthiest and the persons most in demand. Each jug treated
with pitch to hold wine, sells for 3 or 34 reals, and even up to 4;
and in addition to these, many vineyard owners have potteries and
baking ovens on their ranches for the bottling of their wines. Ships
loaded with pitch come up to these valleys, clearing from the port
of Realejo in Nicaragua; and ordinarily, in spite of the duties and
the freight they have to pay, they make large profits, for while the
pitch sells at Realejo for 20 or 24 reals [at the most] a quintal, it
brings at the lowest in these valleys 14 or 15 8-real pesos, and since
it is an essential commodity and large quantities are used, some have
made many ducats in the trade.

1359. The land is very fertile and the climate delightful; and for
this reason, as soon as one leaves the valleys and the vineyard dis-
tricts, one finds extensive woods of guarangos or algarrobos, im-
penetrable at many points. Much cattle roams about in them, with

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 485

goats, hogs, and sheep (or llamas), as well as many savage wild
animals; they live on the beans which fall from the trees, and their
meat is excellent and well-flavored. On the Nasca road there are
5 leagues of these woods, so thick that the highway is the only way
to get through them, and one sees nothing but woods and sky; note
that where they are, it never rains nor has it ever rained. [And
after leaving the guaranga woods, there are 9 leagues] and at the
end there is a puquio or jagtiey where they get drinking water. The
9 leagues following, up to the Huayuri Valley, are all sandy desert,
and they usually start out in the evening to cross them during the
night, for the great heat during the day is apt to kill many of the
animals, and one has to be a very good driver or expert in following
the route or take a guide, for it often happens that people get lost
in these sandy wastes, as was my lot in the year 1617, when I saw
myself in dire straits because my guide had given out. Some who
have long experience of this stretch [are used to] carry corn and
water along to give to their mules or horses at the halfway point,
so that they may not get overtired and collapse, as many have.
1360. Fourteen leagues S. of the town of Ica is the Huayuri Valley ;
it is small and very sandy. It is not visible until you get into it, and
it seems impossible that in the center of these sandy deserts there
should be this valley with 2 big vineyards and others smaller in it;
they get over 20,000 jugs of wine out of it, of the best [and most
refined] quality produced in Peru. The watercourse passing through
the valley carries water only in the winter, in floodtime; when it
gives out, it is all absorbed by the sand, but never fails in the puquios
or wells, either for drinking or for irrigating the vineyards. Two
leagues farther on [beyond this valley] is another stream which they
call the Rio Grande, with another little one beside it; there is an
Indian village there, and right beyond is the stream of El Ingenio
already referred to, where they produce more than 70,000 jugs of
wine; five leagues farther is the Rio de la Nasca. Although all these
rivers have no water in the winter, in summer, which is floodtime,
they are very dangerous. La Nasca is 72 leagues from Lima, at
14° S. All these rivers, and the Rio de Ica, empty into the sea near
the port of Caballos. [This must suffice for the Corregimiento of
Ica and its valleys; their extent and wealth are such that they pay
large sums in tithes to the Archdiocese of Lima. Now we are to treat
of the jurisdiction of the Corregimientos of the city of Leon de
Huanuco, all of which belongs at present to the Archdiocese of Lima. ]

486 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Cuapter XLII (43)

Of the City of Leon de Huanuco el Viejo.

1361. The city [of Leon] of Huanuco [de Los Caballeros]
(Marg.: el Viejo) is 60 leagues E. of the city of Lima. It was first
founded by Gomez de Alvarado at the instance of Marqués Don
Francisco Pizarro in the year 1539 on a wide and attractive plain
with beautiful views, although without one tree because of the cold
climate in that region; there were large buildings there of excellent
stone construction, royal country palaces of the Inca kings, and a
fort, all of hewn stone and 2 stades high, like a well-planned strong-
hold, which would hold over 4,000 men; all around were many out-
buildings, beginning with two galpones or halls, each large enough to
contain a racecourse, and with many doors; this must have been
where the Indian chiefs and lords were lodged, when visiting the
kings; at present they are used for stabling cattle. Between these
two large halls one enters a square plaza, fenced in; opposite these
two gates there were and still are two other gates, well built of hewn
stone, with the insignia of the kings, and a slab on top over 3 varas
long and well carved, serving as an arch for the gates; these gates
stood opposite each other and Io feet apart. Farther on is another
enclosed plaza, very well laid out, with two other gates, one in front
of the other; then another plaza like the preceding, with two other
gates beyond, of the same hewn stone. From outside, all the gates
could be seen, and many apartments and private rooms, all in hewn
stone, and some baths; doubtless this was where the king lived ; and
there were other large buildings, with a wall encircling all the settle-
ment. To see such elaborate ruins rouses pity and compassion, con-
sidering that all those who built them were lost souls, not having
known God. The city was established here for some 2 years, but
was abandoned on account of the wars which ensued, and the cold
climate and the lack of wood. This valley has a level stretch over
8 leagues long, with large cattle and sheep ranches today; where the
city was established there is at present a tambo or tavern with a few
Indians to run it for the accommodation of travelers, since it is on
the King’s Highway; and this site keeps the name of Huanuco
el Viejo.

CuHapTEeR XLIII [44] (45)

Of the Founding of the City of Le6n de Huanuco.
1362. Later, Capt. Pedro Barroso, acting under orders of Don
Francisco Pizarro, founded the city where it is today, 15 leagues S.

ee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 487

of Huanuco el Viejo, at 10°30’ S. On the road leading from the
old to the new site, at the 7-league post, stands the tambo of Lliclla,
in the cold country ; at 1 league, there are a number of ruined villages
of the ancients; among them, and on those hills, there are many of
their tombs, like low towers, with their doors facing E.; on each
little tower, at top and bottom, numerous dead Indians were seated,
sitting up there untouched by decay, since it is always cold in that
locality and the winds are keen, and it has been that way ever since
the times of their heathendom; it would seem they had been put in
those tombs yesterday ; I [venture to] write this, having myself seen
them [in many places]. Beyond these villages and tombs is the village
of San Juan, a Mercedarian curacy; then comes a river which is
crossed by a bridge, and on whose banks there are two small villages,
where the climate is better. All this jurisdiction belongs to the
Province of Los Huamalies. Four leagues farther on is the tambo or
tavern of Mito, at which another jurisdiction starts; and proceeding
down a lovely valley, one comes after four leagues to the city of Leon
de Huanuco.

1863. In the year 1542, on September 16, 2 leagues out of Gua-
manga on the Cuzco road, Licentiate Vaca de Castro fought the battle
of Chupa which is so famous, against Don Diego de Almagro; many
fell on both sides, but His Majesty’s army won, and Don Diego was
later executed. At the end of that same year, in Cuzco, as is related
by the historians and in particular by the Inca Garcilaso, part 2 of
his “Commentaries,” book 3, folio 103 ff., and by the others, the
affairs of that Kingdom having been straightened out and the Gov-
~ ernor having sent out many officers on new expeditions (Marg.: and
Licentiate Antonio de Leon tells of them in his Bibliotheca), he sent
Capt. Pedro de Puelles to the Provinces of Huanuco to reestablish
and rebuild this city. He did this early in the year 1543, building
and peopling the city in a very attractive, fertile, and beautiful valley
between lofty sierras [15 leagues S. of where it was originally
founded], and since Gov. Vaca de Castro was a native of Leon,
he gave it the name of Leon de los Caballeros. Nearby runs a
large river which is one of those giving rise to the Marafion; it starts
up in the Bombon punas, and is joined by the Rio de Mito and others.
This valley is always warm and in consequence is very fertile; the
whole year through they keep planting and harvesting wheat and corn
there, so that while wheat is being sowed in one field, it is springing up
in another, heading up in a third, and in another it is being harvested
and threshed, an astonishing fact, due to the excellent soil and climate
and the abundance of water provided by their rivers for the irriga-

488 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

tion of the crops. They have abundance of fruit in good season,
both native and all sorts of Spanish varieties, and in such fashion
that the trees bear fruit the whole year through and there is never
any lack; and they assured me when I was there in 1616 that accord-
ing as they prune the quince bushes and grapevines, they can regulate
the production of the fruit, of which they have great amounts, as
well as of apples, pippins, peaches, etc. For this reason they put up
the finest preserves in this city in all the Indies, and the roof tiles of
Huanuco, made from their gourds, are famous.

‘CHAPTER XLIV [45] (46)

Continuing the Description of Huanuco.

1364. The city is very healthy, and though it is hot, God provides
a noon breeze which regularly purifies the city and has never failed
a single day since its founding. The city will contain 100 Spaniards,
with in addition 400 mestizos and ordinary rabble. The area of this
city is ample enough for a very large city; at its start they put up
very fine buildings in long blocks, and villas where they have lovely
gardens with many varieties of native and Spanish fruit trees and
oranges and lemons. The founders of this city all belonged to the
nobility and for that reason it was called Ledn de los Caballeros ;
at the start they had large incomes, and today the city has them in
its jurisdiction, which is considerable. The city has a Corregidor,
appointed by the Viceroy. In view of the needs felt by this city and
its provinces, where there are many candidates for confirmation,
His Majesty has been petitioned for a long time to give them a
Bishop; for lack of one the city has been going downhill and is
almost abandoned; this is the reason why the encomenderos’ families
usually live in Lima and spend and eat up their incomes there, to the
loss of this city. That would all be remedied if His Majesty would
give them a prelate of their own and would order the encomenderos
to reside there ; his coming would facilitate and reestablish everything,
and the Panataguas Indians, who are heathen and warlike and do
much damage in that region, would be brought by his presence to the
knowledge of our Holy Faith; and a convent of nuns could be built
there, to keep the daughters of the city from leaving home; and they
likewise are a serious expense to their fathers. The city has an
excellent parish church and Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and
Mercedarian convents, all excellent and well built; a hospital for the
care of the indigent sick with over 4,000 pesos income; and other
churches and shrines of Our Lady of Guadelupe and of San Sebas-
tian ; and there are many mercantile establishments and grocery stores.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 489

1365. The city governs a large district, with many very rich
provinces in it, like those of Chinchaycocha and Tarma on the S.;
to the N. are Huamalies, Pincos, Cajatambos, Guares, Huailas,
Conchucos, Piscobamba and others of less importance; they bring
in Over 40,000 pesos income in tithes, and form five Corregimientos,
in the appointment of the Viceroy. So for the reasons tabulated,
this city’s wish should be heard and His Majesty should graciously
grant them a prelate; then it would be better administered, many
existing evils would be remedied and inconveniences obviated, if
nothing more than that the highland Indians of these provinces should
not have to go down to Lima, where they are sure to catch the valley
sickness, from which very few escape; and many would abandon
their idolatries. (Marg.: In the district of this city there are excellent
silver mines, those of Nuevo Potosi and others ; there are large cattle,
sheep, mule, and hog ranches, and mills for weaving cloth, blankets,
coarse cloth, and grogram.) [This must suffice for the city of
Huanuco, to let us give some account of the Corregimiento of Tarma,
noting that the city has in its jurisdiction excellent silver mines, large
cattle and sheep ranches, and cloth, grogram, and blanket mills, the
mines of Nuevo Potosi and others. |]

1366. From the city one goes 7 leagues toward the Province of
Chincha Chocha (sic) along a pleasant valley, which keeps narrowing
up to the tambo of Ambo, about which are a few Indian villages
with a good climate, named Cairan, Huacra, and others. Traveling
south one passes some ravines and comes to the tambo of San Rafael,
7 leagues S. of the city, where there is an excellent cloth mill. A
league and a half to one side of San Rafael is the village of Huariaca ;
it is already cold in this neighborhood, and 5 leagues farther S. is
the tambo of La Quinua, where the cold is intense; 4 [leagues]
beyond is the village of Ninacaca in the Province of Chinchaycocha,
in the midst of the Cordillera. The province is very cold, and level ;
it has [in it] a lake which is more than 1o leagues in circuit, and which
is the source of the river running through the Jauja Valley. The
province contains the villages of Ninacaca, Pasco y Pisco, Carhua-
mayo, and that of Los Reyes, which is the capital and the largest,
San Juan de los Condores, San Pedro de Cacas, and San Miguel,
all very cold. The village of Los Reyes is 5 leagues S. of Ninacaca;
8 leagues E. is Paucartambo, down a valley with good climate ; there
is an excellent mill here belonging to Don Fernando Tello de Soto-
mayor, its encomendero, where they turn out excellent cloth, grogram,
and blankets. This place has a temperate climate and they raise
excellent fruit; nearby are sugar mills, and to the E., many heathen.

490 SMITHSONIAN. MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1367. The Province of Chinchaycocha is very cold, so much so that
not a single tree grows in the whole of it, and no corn or wheat is
raised ; all they get is a root crop, shaped like a turnip or a loaf of
bread (hogazuela), which the Indians call macas. This grows only
in this province and it is so fiery that the Indians assured me that
wherever it is planted, it leaves the ground exhausted for 30 years
and of no use for raising crops. Although this province is so cold,
it has a large population; the houses are all round like a vault; the
Indians build them this way on account of the cold. They raise
many llamas in this country and Spanish merino sheep; the Indians
make use of their dung for their fires; they shut the doors tight and
the smoke gathers up under the roof and it becomes like a sweating
chamber. Although this is a dirty and wretched sort of life, this
province is very rich and provides for its necessities from those
adjoining.

1368. Near this province is that of Tarma, more temperate and
agreeable ; they raise much corn and wheat here. This whole province
is under the religious instruction of the Dominicans. It contains
Acopampa, near which runs a pleasant rivulet; next comes Santa
Ana de Pampas, and a league farther on, the village of Tarma, which
is large and very attractive; this is the residence of the Corregidor
of these provinces, appointed by the Viceroy. There are two woolen
mills in this village, where they weave and turn out grogram; one
belongs to Don Juan de la Cueva, its encomendero, and the other
to the Indian communal organization. This village is a Dominican
curacy; it has a springlike climate and is rich and abundantly sup-
plied with excellent bread, fruit, meat, and fish. [This relates to
what is comprised in the Corregimiento of the Provinces of Tarma
and Chinchaycocha, omitting other villages of less importance. |]
The Province of Jauja [already described] is 8 leagues S. of Tarma.
From Tarma one returns to Huanuco, which is 30 leagues N.; and
6 leagues N. of the city, going up the valley, the Province of the
Huamalies begins.

CHAPTER XLV [46] (47)

Of the Province of Los Huamalies, and Other Provinces.

1369. In the Province of Los Huamalies, which is one of the
good, thickly settled provinces in this jurisdiction, the Viceroy ap-
points a Corregidor for its satisfactory administration. It is very
rich and has a large population, with large cattle and sheep ranches,
mills turning out cheap cloth and blankets, and a few silver mines.
In its district lies the ancient settlement of Huanuco el Viejo; on

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 491

the E. it has many heathen Indians to be converted to the Faith.
Almost W. of this province, across the rolling plains, lies the Province
of Cajatambo, which has a large population and much cattle, with
a few woolen mills where they make some grogram and _ blankets.
The province has an abundance of excellent cheap products; it is
governed by a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy. On the N. it is
bounded by the Province of Huailas.

1370. The Province of Los Conchucos contains La Payasca, the
town on the boundary of the Diocese of Trujillo and Corregimiento
of Cajamarca ; Corongo, and other large villages. The whole province
is thickly settled. There are a few woolen mills in it, producing thin
and coarse cloth and grogram; they turn out excellent stuff, for the
wool is very fine quality. The Viceroy appoints inspectors (admini-
stradores) for these mills, as he does for those of Quito and La
Payasca. This Province of Los Conchucos is fertile and prolific, and
is much cut up by mountain ranges.

1371. In the jurisdiction of this province are the silver mines of
Siguas, with rich silver ore and mills in which it is ground and
refined. A range of the high snow-capped Cordillera runs N. and S.
through this region; on its western incline is the lovely valley and
Province of Huailas, as will be stated in the following chapter; on
the eastern slope of the Cordillera is the village of Piscobamba, which
is the capital of this Corregimiento, with many others lying in this
district.

1372. Beyond Piscobamba is the Province and village of Huari,
which is under Dominican religious instruction, and the villages of
Yaquia, Huantar, and Chavin, where in the year 1616 I gave the
Indians an iron punch for cutting out the Host, with an inscription
in Hebrew characters. This whole country is very fertile and belongs
to the Corregidor whom the Viceroy appoints in the Province of
Conchucos. Near this village of Chavin there is a large building of
huge stone blocks very well wrought; it was a guaca, and one of the
most famous of the heathen sanctuaries, like Rome or Jerusalem
with us; the Indians used to come and make their offerings and
sacrifices, for the Devil pronounced many oracles for them here, and
so they repaired here from all over the kingdom. There are large
subterranean halls and apartments, and even accurate information
that they extend under the river which flows by the guaca or ancient
sanctuary.

1373. They have information that in the guaca there is great
wealth and treasure in gold and silver and precious stones besides,
and many have tried to reach this treasure. By the just judgments

492 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of God they have not come upon it, for the fabric of the building
is enormous, a huge ruin with many gates and a great subterranean
labyrinth; and yet they say that the real and genuine gate which
gives access to the treasure, lies across the river to the E., with its
entrance concealed by a slab or rock, and up to the present day
they have not been able to locate it. The province has a good climate
and produces large amounts of food crops and fruit.

1374. Two leagues S. of Huari a bridge spans a large swift river
which separates the Province of Huari from that of Pincos, which
is under Mercedarian religious instruction. Near the bridge there is
a woolen mill belonging to the descendants of Licentiate Gaspar de
Espinosa, who served His Majesty in the early days of the explora-
tion of the Indies, having been President of the Circuit Court of
Santo Domingo in Hispaniola; afterwards he subdued many prov-
inces and established some villages in the district of Panama and
was of great assistance in Peru; his great authority and tact led
to his acting as arbiter at Cuzco of the»controversy between the
Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro and Commander Don Diego de
Almagro, which might have been composed had he not died just then ;
the death of so wise and courageous a man was a great loss to His
Majesty and all the pioneers.

1375. From the woolen mill one climbs a long grade to the tambo
of Pincos, passing to the right on the W. the riverside village of
San Marcos, a Mercedarian curacy. From Pincos one travels 7
leagues over very rough, cold country to the tambo of Taparaco,
which belongs to the Province of Los Huamalies; from there, 4
leagues of bad road over the slopes of a sierra, keeping on one’s
left a deep river which comes down from the snowfields. At the end
of these grades one crosses another river by a bridge and comes to
a wide plain covered with cattle and llamas; at the end of it there
are large buildings, with the tambo of Huanuco el Viejo, from which
we return over the same road to describe the Province of Huailas.
All these provinces are between 9° and 11° S.

CHAPTER XLVI [48] (47)

Of the Province and Valley of Huailas and What It Comprises.

1376. The Province of the Huailas Valley runs N. and S. from
Hatunhuailas, its northern boundary point with Conchucos Province,
to Recuay, its southernmost village on the border of the Province
of Cajatambo; on the E. it is bounded by the Provinces of Huari
and Piscobamba, with high snow-capped sierras in between; to the

on iia

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 493 |

W. it borders on the plains and Casma. This province is over 20
leagues long; at its narrowest point the valley is a league across, and
at its widest, 2 or 3 leagues. A large river with a powerful current
runs through it, passing out of it on the W. at the town and valley
of Santa.

1377. The valley contains seven fine Indian villages, besides others
built on heights of side valleys. All those on the N. slope have a
delightful springlike climate ; Hatunhuailas, which means Big Huailas,
is the first ; its climate is temperate to cold ; then comes a small village ;
2 leagues farther on, Caras; then Yungay, and 2 leagues beyond,
Caruas. Dominicans have these in charge ; Yungay is a priorate, and
the Prior’s residence; it is at the foot of a high snow-clad sierra
which has rich mines of low-grade gold ore containing silver. This
village is the residence of the Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy
for the proper administration of this province. These are one and
all of marvelous climate and great abundance of fruit, poultry, fish,
and everything necessary for human existence.

1378. In the village of Caruas there are silver mines from which
great wealth has been derived, and still is. The village of Caruas
itself is 4 leagues up the valley and is the largest in it; it has an
excellent situation and good streets, and is an encomienda of the
Conde de Lemos; he has a good woolen mill there in which they
work up blankets, cloth, grogram, and other textiles. Besides this
there is another of the same sort belonging to Don Luis de Castilla,
and other mills in the other villages in the province. This village
has a cold climate; there are two priests here to instruct the Indians
and administer the Holy Sacraments to them and to the Spaniards,
of whom there are many living among the Indians in all the valley
villages.

1379. Four leagues S. is the village of Recuay; this is very cold
and inclement; they cannot raise fruit, corn, or wheat as is possible
in all the rest of the province, but only potatoes and quinua. They
possess large sheep and llama ranches and rich silver mines, all the
region being paved with this metal. When I was there there were
two establishments ; the ore averaged 4 marks to the quintal, which
means great wealth. Outside the villages the whole province is cov-
ered with ranches and farms. This province falls within the district
of Ledn de Huanuco, which is petitioning for a Bishop; at present
it all belongs to the Archdiocese of Lima, which extends 140 leagues
N. and S. over the plains, from Santa to the Nasca Valley, where it
borders on the Diocese of Arequipa at the Acari Valley which belongs
to this diocese, as will be told in the following chapter.

494 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CuHaptTerR XLVII [48] (49)

Of the Diocese of Arequipa and Other Valleys and Hills along
the Coast in Its District.

1380. Eighteen leagues S. of La Nasca are the valley and village
of Acari, the first in the Diocese of Arequipa; and although for
over 550 leagues along the coast there is no rain—1.e., from Tumbes
down to the city of La Serena in Chile [at 32° S.]—in some districts
a very fine dew falls, which they call gartia in that kingdom. Since
the land is of such excellent quality, during the season when this
fine garta falls much excellent grass springs up on some stretches
and the meadows are covered with flowers; at this time they drive
down for fattening [on them] great numbers of cattle, mares, mules,
goats, hogs, etc. Fifteen leagues along on the road running from
La Nasca to the Acari Valley, a range of hills (lomas) begins and
almost reaches this Acari Valley, which will be over three leagues.
When the grass begins drying out, which period lasts 3 or 4 months,
they drive the cattle back to the sierra, till the next season. Thus
the residents of this valley avail themselves of these hills for their
cattle. The village [in this valley] will have a little over 100 Indians
and some 40 Spaniards who live there among them and have their
farms and plantations there. It has the same climate as the other
plains localities. The valley is wide and well supplied with water ;
they raise much corn, wheat, kidney beans, pallares, peanuts, chick-
peas, and other cereals, and quantities of fruit: excellent melons,
native cucumbers, bananas, and other fruit; they make flour, which
is exported to the Nasca Valley and the Ingenio Valley; there is a
large demand and an excellent sale for all their products. Ordinarily
this river has plenty of water. It rises in the Provinces of the Lucanas
and Parinacochas. The village is about half a league from the sea.
There are some groves of trees in the valley, and many remarkable
constructions of the ancients which have lasted to the present and
will stand just as they are forever, for as it does not rain [ever] on
these plains, they take no harm. All the houses in this village are
built bajaraque style, i.e., of stakes or canes plastered with mud,
as in all the villages of the plains Indians in this kingdom. As for
roofs, some houses have nothing but a few mats on top to keep out
the sun, or banana leaves, and others are thatched with straw. On
the other side of the river rises a long high ridge of nothing but
sand, sloping upward for over a league. [And near this valley there
are other small ones of less importance, of which I make no special
mention. ]

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 495

[Cuap. of the Hills of Atiquipa, the Chala and Chaparra Valleys,
and Other Matters, etc. |

1381. Twelve leagues S. of the Acari Valley is the [valley] of
Chala, where they produce [some very good] olive oil and olives
ranking among the best in the whole kingdom, and also some wine.
Before one reaches it, at the very end of the valley by the sea, rise
the Atiquipa lomas [which are the best and most extensive in the
whole kingdom, and even though on all the seacoast of this kingdom
it never rains, in a few localities, this gartia above mentioned, or very
fine drizzle, falls, and they call those localities hills (lomas), and
those belonging to the Chala Valley, each 3 leagues long, are] which
are the best in that kingdom; the whole year through they pasture
great herds of cattle, cows, mules, mares, goats, and sheep, and they
breed them in great numbers; there are springs and watercourses
on them all the year [which is not true of other lomas] so that the
cattle have excellent facilities for watering. On these lomas there
are some establishments and farms with gardens and orchards of
Spanish and native fruit trees, excellent fig and olive groves; they
raise much corn, wheat, and other cereals on them. Many persons
have enriched themselves breeding cattle on them, since they are
superior to other localities. These lomas rise right by the sea and
run more than 2 leagues inland.

1382. The Chala Valley is about 3 leagues up the valley from
these lomas ; it is very short of water. Its river comes from the rolling
uplands of the Province of the Parinacochas. There are a few vine-
yards in it, but what has made it famous is the olive groves which
they have planted and continue planting there; they bear so plenti-
fully that a very small number of olive groves yield large amounts
of both excellent oil and olives; ships come to their port on the sea-
coast to load them for Lima. There are a few Indian fishermen
[who have much success catching excellent fish for all the region
round about and inland]; they have excellent lisas and pejerreyes,
and other kinds. This valley borders on the Province of the Parina-
cochas, which belongs to the Diocese of Cuzco. Five leagues S. of
[the valley of] Chala is the Chaparra Valley, between very lofty
sierras ; a river flows through it which comes down from the Province
of the Aymaraes, which is likewise in the Cuzco Diocese. On the
banks of this little river there are a few vineyards; there are a few
Spaniards living here, as also in the Chala Valley [of the Chala and
Chaparra Valleys]. The water in these two rivulets never reaches
the sea, because the little there is, is used up in irrigating the vine-
yards, olive groves, and cultivated fields; if any is left over, it sinks

496 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

down into the earth’s center, avoiding the intensity of the sun, which
is very great in those parts.

1383. From these valleys it is 14 leagues along the seacoast south-
ward to the valley and village of Atico. On the way there are a few
fishermen for this coast is rich in fish, which they catch for the
sierra provinces. Along this coast there are also many sea lions,
which come out of the water onto the rocks, and make loud noises
at night [which would scare one not in the secret; one would think
they were calves or some other animal]. In the Atico Valley there
is a small Indian village one-eighth of a league from the sea; they
are fishermen and catch large amounts of fish which they salt and
carry up into the sierras. There are a few vineyards and fig groves
in this valley; when I went through there, at Christmas time, they
had excellent early figs. E., on this same parallel, is the city of Cuzco,
capital of these kingdoms and court city of the Inca kings.

1384. From the Atico Valley it is 15 leagues to the Camana Valley ;
at 5 leagues there are some lomas called Sina, with a little Indian
village on them. In this district one travels right by the seashore ;
a short distance out there are islets or rocks covered with seals. When
they have had their fill of fish they come out of the water and climb
up on the rocks or islets and stretch out in the sun like herds of pigs
and bellow like calves. They are remarkable creatures, for though
they are shaped like fish, in their movements, muzzle, teeth, and
skin they resemble wolves, and are even more savage; what would
naturally be hands, feet, and tail, is fins, as with fish. They climb
up on the rocks hoisting themselves with their fins in great peace and
tranquillity, never quarreling or biting each other, whether large or
small, and in great numbers. At night they come out on land, bellow-
ing loudly; and as people usually travel at night in that country on
account of the sun, anyone who heard such loud cries without knowing
what it was, would be greatly scared and alarmed. In fact, when
I passed through that stretch and heard such loud roaring, I asked
the guide who was conducting me, what it was; without that, I
should have been disquieted. From this village it is 4 leagues farther
to the Rio de Ocofia, which is rather large; there is a small Indian
village on it, cut in two by the river, which is a convenience for
travelers. This valley contains some vineyards and fig groves, and
many buildings erected by the ancients. At its inception it [this
valley] was thickly settled, but was decimated by war and pestilence.
[In this valley] they plant their farms to corn, peppers, sapallos or
pumpkins, and other crops, for there is abundance of water. When
the river comes down in flood, they have rafts to ferry travelers across.

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 497

They are all fishermen, having the sea close by [and excellent fish].
There are very good crayfish in the river, and they made me a present
of them, for I said Mass for them when I went through; these poor
fellows never hear Mass, for it is impossible to have a priest there,
and so when they can, they go over to Camana.

Cuapter XLVIII [49] (50)

Of the Town and Valley of Camana, and the Valley of Los Majes.

1385. From the Ocofia Valley it is 6 leagues to the town and valley
of Camana. This [town] was originally established on a high point
on the N. side of the valley, but that was found to be unsuitable,
so they dismantled it and went to another site nearer the sea. But
in the year 1599 such a mighty earthquake came that the sea with-
drew and retreated a long distance and then returned with such a
furious onslaught on the land that it penetrated far inland and ruined
most of the town and laid waste the vineyards, so that they never
bore again and dried up. After this calamity they went and rebuilt
S. of the river, where it stands today, in a pleasant level spot among
groves of trees. It has a hot climate; the houses are all of bajareque,
i.e., poles or [wild] bamboos stuck in the ground and plastered with
mud ; they are thatched with straw. The town will contain 70 Spanish
residents and a few Indians; there is a parish church and a Merce-
darian convent. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor in this town for
the administration of justice. This is a very extensive valley, and they
produce over 30,000 jugs of wine; they have sugar plantations and
mills; the sugar is exported to Arequipa; they produce much cane
syrup, and raise [much] wheat, corn, chickpeas, and other cereals
of Spanish and native varieties ; they grow [much] fruit and excellent
melons; and in the river, which is large [and full], there is good
fishing and abundance of crayfish; so the town is plentifully supplied,
both from the river and the sea nearby, which provides much fish
also. There are many cattle and mule ranches; [its fertility gives
many possibilities] ; they fertilize all their crops with guano from
sea birds, as I shall explain when I come to treat of the Arica district.

1386. Twelve leagues up the river is the famous Los Majes Valley,
one of the most prolific in the kingdom. They produce abundance
of excellent wine, which they export to the Provinces of the Aymaraes,
Collaguas, Condesuyos, and others adjoining; they make the largest
and best raisins [in this valley] in the whole Kingdom of Peru.
But in spite of the fertility of this valley, they have a terrible plague
and tax in many varieties of mosquitoes; to torture people in the

33

498 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

daytime there are jejenes (gnats) and rodadores (rollers), which
stick tight and bite so that it burns. As a defense against such a
terrible and unceasing visitation, they have their house doors made
of cane so skilfully laid and intertwined that the light comes through,
but the mosquitoes, tiny as they are, cannot enter. At night they
have the long-legged (zancudo) mosquitoes, which not only distract
one with their buzzing but bite savagely; it is with such torments
and troubles that they enjoy the fertility of their valley.

1387. From the town of Camana it is 24 leagues to the city of
Arequipa, and 13 to the harbor of Hilay, which is the chief port
of Arequipa; it is 18 leagues from the port of Hilay to Arequipa.
Accordingly, on leaving Camana for Arequipa, one travels 5 leagues
along the seashore when it is low tide, and at times on the top of
a sandbank along the water’s edge. In this region they get excellent
catches of lisas and other fish which they salt for the sierra and
the Provinces of Arequipa and of Cuzco, inland. At 5 leagues one
leaves the sea and travels E. inland, ascending through some very
good lomas, where large numbers of cattle are pastured in season,
although all this country is deep in ashes from what fell in the
eruption of the volcano in the Province of Los Ubinas, 16 leagues
from Arequipa, in the year 1600; since it caught all this country
close by, the voleano caused more devastation here than elsewhere.
Apart from this detail I will say that when I was in that region,
which was in 1617 and 1618, the inhabitants gave me information
about it. These lomas produce more than 3 leagues of excellent
thick grass, where large numbers of cattle are pastured, as has been
described in the case of the others. Beyond these lomas come 6
leagues of uninhabitable sandy desert and ashes, in which lie great
numbers of dead oxen, cows, bulls, horses, mules, sheep, and goats,
dried up in the ashes and the sand; when they passed through, the
sun is so intense and there is no water, so that they gave out and
perished ; this is an ordinary occurrence before reaching the Siguas
Valley, [very fertile, and abounding in vineyards and other fruit,
and crayfish]. One passes some deep caves, and one sees nothing
till right on them, though it is all level country, and then there is
over a league of steep downgrade till one reaches the [valley and]
river. Although this is not very wide, there are many groves and
orchards of fruit trees and figs, and vineyards, which come in sec-
tions, wherever the deep river has offered a suitable location for
planting them; the distance between them is such that sometimes
the next one is visible, sometimes it is half a league off, more or less,
according to the availability of the site. On all of them there are

Eevee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 499

houses and wineries for the vintage and wine making, and some have
ovens to bake the jars used for the wine. The tar for pitching them
is imported from [New Spain, shipped at] the port of Realejo
in the Province of Nicaragua, from Amapala and other ports [of
less importance for this product. Usually] In these valleys a quintal
of pitch sells for 30 reals at 8 to a peso, whereas it costs only 3 reals
there. The vineyards and farms in this valley run from near the
sea, where the Rio de Vitor empties into it, up to the end [of the
valley], over 10 leagues up to the heights of the sierra in the Provinces
of Los Collaguas and Condesuyos. On all these farms they have
[their] fruit and vegetable gardens, with tracts in alfalfa [which
is a plant which they have in the Kingdom of Valencia, which is
almost exactly like clover, and usually grows the whole year through],
which they plant all over the plains in Peru as forage for beasts of
burden. In this valley they will produce more than 70,000 jugs of
wine. All these vineyards are very different from those in the valleys
of Ica, Pisco, Nasca, and the rest of the lowlands; there the vines
are a stade high, like those artificially trained, and here they are low
boles, like those in Andalusia [a little higher than those in Castile. |
The viduefios are all black, as has been previously stated, but they
have a few mollar (seedless?) and other varieties, although in small
numbers, for it is the black type which has proved best in that king-
dom. This [Siguas] valley is hemmed in on both sides by desert
dunes of sand and ashes, and the wind keeps blowing them from one
side to the other.

1388. From this valley one travels over 5 leagues of level country
through these ashes and sand dunes just mentioned to the Vitor
Valley. This also is deep, for the river drops into some caverns
toward the earth’s center. This is the river which runs past the city
of Arequipa [which is 7 leagues from this point, where the river
broadens out] and renders its country rich and prolific; [in this
valley] they have very fertile and extensive vineyards, which widen
out touching one another ; they get over 100,000 jugs of wine, because
at this point the valley where the vineyards are planted is very wide.
They have excellent establishments and storehouses to keep their
wine, [many vessels and] ovens where they bake the jars and the
jugs; there are [besides] good orchards of fruit trees and figs.
All these plantations and those in the Siguas Valley belong to resi-
dents of Arequipa, and when the volcano erupted they were burned
up and devastated. This river joins the Rio de Siguas near the sea
by the harbor of Hilay, which is the port of the city of Arequipa,
18 leagues W. of it [and 13 S. of Camana]. From the Vitor Valley

500 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

[to the city of Arequipa.] there are 7 leagues of sand hills, ashes,
and a few ridges, all uninhabitable until one reaches the city in this
Vitor Valley. In all that country grapes and other fruit begin to
ripen by Christmas time, and as the river is in flood at that time and
it is hot, there are multitudes of mosquitoes, gnats, and rodadores
which are very troublesome by day; they stick to one’s face and bite
so savagely that in several localities I have seen people’s skin com-
pletely altered. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for this valley.

CHAPTER XLIX [50] (51)

Describing the City of Arequipa and Part of Its District.

1389. The city of Arequipa lies 150 leagues S. of the city of Lima.
It was founded by the Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro in the year
1534, 18 leagues inland from the sea on the banks of the Rio Vitor,
which renders it fertile, pleasant, and abundantly supplied. It lies
to the S. of the river in a level [valley] and has one of the best cli-
mates in Peru and indeed in the whole world. In that country they
call this climate chaupiyunga, which means between cold and hot;
it is very delightful and temperate, equable the whole year through.
On its E. border it has a range or volcano which rises very high,
like a sugar loaf, and its slopes come down to the site of the city;
it is 2 leagues from top to bottom [but this is not the one which
erupted, for it contains no fire.] On its peak the heathen used to
make their sacrifices in the days of their paganism. Near it on the
N. is another sierra almost as high as the volcano; the Rio de Vitor
runs between them, from E. to W., making the whole country rich,
fertile, luxurious, and delightful. When it rains the volcano and
sierra are covered with snow, but in the city itself, built on their
slopes to the W., it does not rain and there is no change of tem-
perature or of season.

1390. The city will contain 300 Spaniards, not counting Negroes,
Indians, and other servitors. The city covers a very wide and exten-
sive area, for the houses are large and they all contain within their
enclosures, orchards and gardens with all the native and Spanish
varieties of fruit trees, so that it seems a bit of Paradise. They have
excellent pears, pippins, apples, large and small peaches, and other
Spanish fruit in abundance; the height of their season is Christmas
time. All the year they have pinks, roses, white lilies, and all sorts
of Spanish flowers. It occupies the area of a very large city; the
buildings are excellently constructed, with tiled roofs. There is a
Cathedral, for it is the see for the Diocese, which was separated

i

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 5ol1

and carved out of the Diocese of Cuzco in the year 1610, on account
of the wide jurisdiction of the latter, and for the lack of episcopal
visits in the days of the Marqués de Montesclaros; and as this is
new country, every day requires a new remedy, until things get
settled. At present it has wide jurisdiction and it is desirable that
another Bishop should be appointed for Arica. The first Bishop
installed over this church was Archbishop Don Fray Cristobal
Rodriguez, who had held that office in Santo Domingo; he was on
his way to this church when he died, having entered his Diocese at
the town of Camana, 24 leagues from the city. Master Perea of
the Augustinian Order was immediately promoted to this post; he
began his incumbency in the year 1619 and still governs his church,
with his Prebendaries and dignitaries who serve it. There are
Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit con-
vents, all excellent and well supported; there is an [excellent] nun-
nery of Santa Clara, a hospital for the care of the sick, and other
churches and shrines. There are many runnels of water in the streets,
drawn both from the Rio Vitor and other streams flowing from the
villages and valleys which lie near the city to the S., for the cleansing
of the city and the irrigation of its gardens, orchards, and vegetable
plots. In fine, this city is one of the most attractive in the world,
and seems a bit of earthly Paradise [in its delightful lavishness] ;
it is full of flowers and fruit the whole year through. It has a fine
attractive riverside district, with many orchards or chacras of fruit
trees—pears, peaches, apples, and other Spanish and native varieties ;
in fact, when I was there it seemed to me the foremost and best
in the world, for its excellent site and climate and the pleasant waters
that it has in view of the city. Round about it there are many Indian
villages, at a distance of 1 or 2 leagues, more or less, in lovely fertile
valleys, down which flow streams of sweet and crystal-clear water.
Besides the gardens and orchards which it possesses, they plant and
reap much wheat, corn, chickpeas, horse beans, and other Spanish
and native cereals. The chief harvest is at Christmas time. I reached
the city at that time and saw a pile of wheat on a threshing-floor
made up of nothing but the heads, which is all they [cut and] reap,
as they have no use for straw in that country; at the hour of Vespers,
I saw two groups of Indian men and women come in for the opera-
tion, singing and joking, many of them barefooted; at the best they
wore ojotas, which are a sort of sandals; and by Angelus time they
had the pile of wheat threshed and winnowed, and a heap [of wheat]
amounting to more than 100 fanegas—a sight which roused my
admiration. I saw this at the close of the year 1618. Besides this,

O02 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in

the city has in its outer wards many houses thatched with straw for
the poor. There are [many] merchants and shops here; they make
large amounts of knitted woolen stockings, which sell for 4 reals a
pair. Furthermore, on the other side of river to the N., and ac-
cessible by a [fine] stone bridge, the city has an [excellent] Indian
village called Santa Ana, a Dominican curacy. This bridge carries
the highway for Camana, Lima, and all the lowland country. This
city has a Corregidor appointed by the Council for its satisfactory
administration; in the district of the Diocese there are eight Cor-
regidores. Three of these are appointed by the Council—that of the
city of Arequipa, and for Arica and Collaguas; and five by the
Viceroy—Camana, Vitor, Condesuyos, Ubinas, and Moquegua. Near
the city there are many Indian villages and provinces, such as Chiqui-
guanita, Quimistaca, the Province of Los Collaguas and those of
the Condesuyos and Ubinos, for the service of the city and its resi-
dents ; they come in by weekly drafts, according as they are notified ;
the Corregidor of Arequipa makes the assignments [to the residents],
for them to perform their tasks and their duties.

1391. Near the city to the ENE. is the Province of Los Conde-
suyos, with many villages and a large population ; there are excellent
gold mines there, and many llama ranches. The Viceroy appoints
a Corregidor in this province for its satisfactory administration.
These Indians come in by mitas for the service needs of the city,
for they belong to its jurisdiction and are assigned to its residents.

CHAprer bt [s51) (52)

Continuing the Description of the District of This City, ete.

1392. Next this Province of Los Condesuyos lies the extensive
Province of Los Collaguas, which is all thickly settled [with people
and many villages]. The Council appoints a Corregidor for its
satisfactory administration. His residence is in the village of Yanqui,
which is the capital of this province. It contains large llama ranches,
which make it very wealthy; it is well supplied with corn, potatoes,
meat, and fish; it has excellent silver mines. This province belongs
to the Diocese of Arequipa, and its inhabitants are apportioned to
the Arequipans and are under obligations to provide personal service
[to its residents] for their mitas; [and it belongs to the Diocese
of Arequipa, like Los Condesuyos; in these provinces it borders on
Cuzco to the E., on the Diocese of Cuzco. In the Vitor Valley and
its vineyards the Viceroy appoints another Corregidor; but I cer-
tainly do not know what his function is except to extort money

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 503
more legitimately; furthermore his jurisdiction extends as far as
the port of Hilay, which belongs to the city of Arequipa and is 18
leagues W. of it.]

1398. Near the port of Hilay there are very good lomas where
they fatten mules and other stock at the proper seasons. There are
many olive groves, among them the Olivar del Monte Carmelo,
where I said Mass in 1618 on the day of the Presentation of Our
Lady; and at the instance and pious inspiration of myself and its
owner, I blessed it and we gave it this name to the honor and glory
of Our Lady of Carmen.

1394, The Province of Los Ubinas is ESE. of Arequipa; and
although the Viceroy used to appoint a Corregidor there for its
satisfactory administration, since the eruption of its volcano [of this
province] which laid it waste [and many of its villages] in the year
1600, they have been subordinate to the Corregidor of Arequipa.
From the city one can see the sierra and the volcano, which are
covered with snow at times [and the Cordillera, which runs N. and
S. for over 1,500 leagues, from Santa Marta to the Straits]. Running
W. from them are several dry and uninhabitable ranges, on which
grow only a few thorny bushes which they call cardones. On leaving
the city for the sea, which is to the W., one takes a road running
WSW. and reaches a village 2 leagues from the city; one sets out
from here toward evening to spend all night crossing a 12-league
desert, over terrible uninhabitable sandy wastes between mountain
ranges. Since this is so difficult and parched, with nothing but [much]
sand and ashes, for there is a puquio or well only at the start, and
farther on one with only a little brackish water in it; great numbers
of oxen, cows, mules, horses, sheep, and goats have perished on that
road ; in fact, when I went through there, I saw over 8,000 head of
stock dead and dried up in the ashes and sand. I paid my tribute
also with a male and a female mule; I had to abandon them when
they collapsed in this desert and perished, and I saw myself in great
straits for the she-mule on which I was riding, started to give out.
After crossing this dreadful desert, one comes to some fine large
lomas, covered with thick cool grass; these will be 3 leagues from
the sea, and there is much cattle grazing on them [as on those already
described]. There are olive groves on them, which yield large amounts
of oil and [excellent] olives; the chief one is that of Los Almontes
[which is of great importance to the city]. On the coast there are
extensive fisheries and they catch large amounts of fish which is
salted for exportation into the sierra and all the country around
Cuzco, etc.

504 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

1395. From these lomas one travels 5 leagues S. to the Rio de
Tambo. In this valley there were once along the banks of its river
[very good] sugar mills, mule and cattle ranches, vineyards and other
plantations ; but when the volcano up in the Province of Los Ubinas
erupted, [16 leagues from Arequipa] 12 leagues upstream from the
sea—this volcano was a low ridge in the center of a sierra and in
the year 1600 it ejected so much fire and ashes that it [the ashes]
spread over 200 leagues in every direction and fell on ships sailing
out at sea [and is to be seen today] ; at present there is much [ashes]
after all this lapse of time over 150 leagues, as I myself saw when
traveling over those plains—accordingly, when the volcano erupted,
I was assured by trustworthy residents of that region that the Rio
de Tambo which runs near [where] the volcano [was], was full of
great red-hot pumice stone which burned up and consumed all the
farms and the cattle and that it carried the pumice stone out to sea
and for more than 2 leagues round about [where it empties into
the sea] it roasted all the fish in the sea and that great quantities
of dead and roasted fish appeared on all those shores and it was
a special mercy of God that they caused no pestilence, [the scavenger
birds of that country] the condors and buzzards [which are im-
portant for the country’s sanitation] making short and thorough
work of them.

1396. And they likewise assured me that when the volcano erupted,
it caused such a huge earthquake in that country that it ruined many
houses and caused extensive damage [and with these earthquakes
lasting 7 days and the depth of the fiery ashes raining down, they
thought that the end of the world and the Day of Judgment had
arrived; and it caused such a horrible darkness throughout that
district that for the space of 7 days they never saw the sun and
could not tell whether it was day or night; even with lights in their
houses they could not see one another, remaining terrified and
demoralized, with the cinders raining down constantly and many
houses catching fire and falling in; and in this terrible tribulation
they all confessed their sins, feeling sure that the final end had
arrived, and it was such that] only at the close [of the 7 days] of
the period described in the following chapters, they began to get
the light of the sun and to see, as Noah did from his Ark, how
God was looking with merciful eyes upon them. It left the whole
country, crops and stock, burned up and devastated and some villages
in the provinces were destroyed; the land remained scorched and
burned, and nothing could grow for a long time, its fertility having
been impaired ; the adjoining provinces which came to their aid, were

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 505

unable to support themselves; and so until the land recovered, I was
assured that the women sold their jewels to keep alive, since the
land had been left so exhausted and sterile. But now it has come
back and is as fertile and prolific as ever. All the charm of Arequipa’s
luxury and perfect climate is counterbalanced by its liability to
tremors and earthquakes. Besides what has been mentioned, there
was an earthquake in 1599 where the sea rushed inland [having first
withdrawn from the coast] and ruined many farms and part of the
town of Camana; and the great shock referred to when the volcano
in Los Ubinas erupted. There was another in the year 1582, in
which perished, to enjoy eternal life, Santa Teresa de Jests, a nun
of my Holy Order. [She was like a Spanish apostle and had the
courage of a man, illumined by the light of the Holy Ghost; she
founded anew the Order of the most devout Barefoot Carmelite
Nuns. The earthquake in this year of 1582] This temblor did
enormous damage, wrecking the city of Arequipa and other places
in its neighborhood. And in 1618, there was another at the city of
Arica, on which occasion I myself was present; the sea drew far
back and then rushed in again, bursting its normal bounds, and on
its way it carried off a whole row of houses in the city of Arica,
which were near the sea.

CuapTer LI [52] (53)

Another Account of the Great Earthquake from the Volcano of
Los Ubinas de Arequipa, and of the Length of Time the Storm
Lasted.

1397. After writing the above account of the volcano of Los
Ubinas, which is at the headwaters of the Rio de Tambo, some
16 leagues from the city of Arequipa, I was given the following
description by Pedro de Vivar, a soldier in His Majesty’s Castilian
Guards, who was present in the city of Arequipa; on that occasion
they pulled him out of a buried house, almost suffocated by the
huge amount of ashes which had fallen on it. He wrote just how
everything happened; it runs as follows. [Our Lady of Atocha
wrought a miracle in his case, as will be seen in her church. |]

1398. On February 18 in the year 1600, at 9 o’clock of a Friday
night, heavy shocks began which continued on each other’s heels till
6 o’clock of the following Saturday afternoon. The ground shook
so hard that people did not dare to go into their houses, for fear
they would fall on top of them. On that same day, which seemed
to them the day of awful judgment, they went to glorious Santa

506 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Marta, the protectress against earthquakes in that city, and carried
her statue in procession to the parish church, which is now the
Cathedral of that diocese. On Saturday at 6 o’clock in the afternoon,
as has been said, all the region of the upper air or the heavens was
obscured by a very black cloud and it began raining very fine sand
in enormous quantity, a thing which terrified people, who had never
seen or imagined such an unprecedented phenomenon. That white
sand rained down till midnight, with some dark gray; it stopped for
a while, but only briefly, and then started in again raining down
harder, until Sunday morning; by then the ground was covered
with } vara (8 inches) of sand and ashes. That same night there
were great thunderclaps and thunderbolts, continuous one after the
other ; the thunder was hoarse, such as never had been heard before.
All night long there were loud cries and lamentations from the Indians,
Spaniards, women, and children, begging God for mercy. While
the tempest was raging, a hermit who was out doing penance in the
desert, came back to seek refuge in the city; and in this terrible
tribulation, he strode naked, with a holy Christ in one hand and
a stone in the other, striking himself hard with it; he visited all the
churches and begged God for mercy, that He would take pity on that
city ; he was followed by a great crowd, which overflowed the churches
and followed his every movement; but the darkness was such that
they could not see each other, though they carried lighted lanterns.

1399. On that Sunday at half past one in the afternoon it grew
so dark, up to 3:30, that it was impossible to see sky or land or one
another. At that moment the Jesuit Rector preached a sermon,
urging them to contrition and sorrow at seeing God offended, and
that those were sure indications of the Judgment. At this sermon
and before the present spectacle, all the people broke out into great
lamentations and mourning, begging God for mercy and for remission
of their sins, whereupon he brought out a very holy Christ and
encouraged the afflicted, telling them that the humble and contrite
in heart might hope for His divine mercy.

1400. It grew brighter at 3:30 in the afternoon, and then they
exposed the Holy Sacrament and took it to the plaza in a procession ;
the whole city escorted His Divine Majesty in procession, and many
priests delivered fervent prayers on that occasion. On the Monday
succeeding, it came off bright, though the ashes kept falling. On
this day Father Fray Domingo Pérez, the Dominican Prior, preached
on the steps of the parish church to the whole city; some were on
their knees, others confessing their sins and others lamenting them,
all of them covered with the falling ashes; they were so panic-

i Ph a ig ee aS ieee

WHOLE, VOL: THE: WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 507

stricken that they did not expect to see the next day alive. In their
procession they also carried a very holy Christ from the Dominican
convent, and the most sacred image of Our Lady of Copacabana ; the
friars walked along reciting the litanies, and an Indian kept blowing
a hoarse trumpet, and all implored God for mercy.

On the Tuesday following, the 22d of that month, the sun came
out, somewhat veiled by the ashes and sand which kept falling ;
nobody knew what was the origin of such a phenomenon; some said
it was sea sand, others that it came from some volcano, others that
it was universal throughout the world, which was coming to its end.
But they did not dare leave the city, afraid of perishing in the
country. All the products of the soil perished, and all the vineyards,
where the grapes were already ripe; the sand and ashes which fell,
covered them up.

The Indians went about consulting soothsayers and wizards, and
with lack of faith kept saying that the world was coming to an end,
and that since they were dying, they should eat and drink up all that
they possessed. The Corregidor improved matters somewhat by
arresting some of the demoralizers. On the succeeding Wednesday
the sky was clear and no ashes fell; on Thursday it was cloudy and
the sun did not come out, which caused panic and sickness at heart
among all the afflicted.

Cuapter LII [53] (54)

Continuing the Account of What Happened at the Eruption of
the Ubinas Volcano.

1401. On the following Friday, which was the 8th day of this
trial, it was very cloudy and overcast, and one had to light a lamp
to see; on Saturday there was no dawn, which caused great alarm
and distress among the people for the darkness was overpowering,
from Friday afternoon till 10 a.m. Sunday, and it rained huge
quantities of ashes, and the people were panic-stricken and disheart-
ened, for during all that time it had been darker than the blackest
night; a great tempest raged all this time; people were overcome
with fear and went about the streets with lanterns bewailing their sins.

On that day a solemn and devout procession started from the
Jesuit convent, of Jesuits with 12 priests with 12 reliquaries con-
taining valuable relics and bones of saints; the priests all went bare-
foot ; the procession visited all the churches. Then another procession
left the Dominican convent; they carried a very holy Christ of the
Expiration and the image of Our Lady of the Rosary and that of

508 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

glorious San Jacinto; this also was escorted by the whole city; they
marched with the greatest difficulty because of the huge amount of
ashes which had rained down and which kept falling and miring
down; a further great affliction was that all these processions took
place at the time of that deep darkness, from which there was no
escape.

1402. On Sunday, February 27, another procession left the Augus-
tinian convent; they carried a very sacred image of Our Lady of
Grace, and a very holy Christ. This procession went to the Jesuit
convent, and the Augustinian Prior, Fray Diego Gutiérrez de la
Merced, preached a sermon. Another procession marched to the
plaza; they carried the image of Our Lady of Consolation, with
great solemnity and prayerfulness; all the religious orders escorted
it to the parish church, where it remained, as well as glorious Santa
Marta.

Monday was very dark, and it did not grow light till toward noon.
They said that on that day the volcano of Omate, or Los Ubinas,
erupted, which is 16 leagues from the city. On that day it grew
dark at 4 p.m.; this lasted 2 hours, and then it cleared up somewhat.
On Tuesday the sun was visible though shrouded by mists and ashes
which kept raining down; the following days were rather light,
although the sun did not appear till the following Saturday, when
they took out the images of Our Lady of Consolation and glorious
Santa Marta and St. Francis in procession; and seeing that it was
rapidly growing dark and much ashes kept falling, they all went back
and visited the stations, as on previous days. This darkness was
intense ; it lasted till Sunday when they were singing Mass, and Our
Lord was pleased to let it clear up. Then they celebrated a Novena
of sung Masses, the Mercedarian friars before the most sacred
image of Our Lady of Consolation, which is most highly venerated
in that city, and miracle working; they kept it in the Franciscan
convent. And now they began to learn of the blessings they received
through her intercession with God Our Lord.

1403. The whole city joined in this great Novena before this most
holy image and glorious Santa Marta and it cleared up, although
every day ashes kept pouring down; during these tempests they took
the Holy Sacrament and the other images and put them in the church
tower, which was very strongly built of stone and mortar, for fear
that the church might fall in because of the heavy shocks.

The volcano threw out great quantities of red-hot pumice stone
on the 15th day of the storm, burning up and annihilating an Indian
village which was nearby; it was like night there all those 15 days,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 509

with no dawn or light to be seen. The Indians had gone off into the
sierra at the beginning of the disturbance; it is said that many of
them used to worship up there and sacrificed there to the Devil,
offering up to him at times Indians whom they threw into the crater
for him to swallow them.

1404, It is stated as a certainty that many of the Indians talked
with the Devil; the padres who instructed them, weaned them (by
their counsels and their chastisements) from such wickedness; but
they were such great sorcerers that they said the Devil had told them
that the volcano was about to erupt, and as it came to pass later,
they say that five of them hanged themselves at the instigation of
the Evil One; if they had not done that, there would have been
great calamities and tribulations among them. In some directions the
ashes traveled over 600 leagues, for some fell in Nicaragua; they
burned up and laid waste the whole country, and great numbers of
stock perished. A stream of fire ran down the Rio de Tambo, roasting
fish in the sea for a distance of over 2 leagues from its mouth. It
caused other frightful damage over all that region; the cattle which
survived the tempest itself, perished later of hunger, for the ground
was buried in ashes a vara deep, varying according to the localities,
and so they had nothing to eat. This tempest lasted till March 15,
having started on the 18th of February. May Our Lord be glorified
for all His works. [Although the land was left so exhausted and
sterile, it has nevertheless already recovered and is as rich and prolific
as before; but all the charm of abounding fertility and delightful
climate possessed by Arequipa, is counterbalanced by its liability to
shocks and earthquakes; besides those already mentioned, in the
year 1599 when there was a tidal wave with the earthquake, and
that of the volcanic eruption of 1600, and another in 1582 which
nearly leveled and ruined the whole city, and others which have
occurred less important and destructive, in the year 1618 there was
another earthquake, in which, at the city of Arica, the sea backed
off and withdrew, and then rushed back and overflowed ... . near
the sea.] (One line illegible ; cf. end of {| 1396).

Cuapter LIII [54] (55)

What the Cause and Origin of Earthquakes May Be.

1405. In my opinion the reason why earthquakes are so common
in the Indies is that in large part they are caused by the heated vapors
which are produced in the bowels and cavities of the earth. Together
with the sulfur which is also generated in those regions, they form

510 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the stuff with which the fires of the volcanoes are kindled and fed.
Thus greater cavities and empty spaces are created down there;
and as these vapors find no easy outlet, and that is not their center,
they are restless and violent, and this restlessness and violence at
times cause them to burst forth at the weakest point. Thus on account
of this violence and restlessness, when there is an earthquake it is
instantaneously perceived and felt by a roaring sound underground,
which is the result of the agitation of these vapors. This can be
clearly appreciated from the analogy of powder set underground in
a mine; when it is set off, it bursts forth and carries along with it
whatever it meets; or by the analogy of an acorn or chestnut placed
whole in the fire; the air between the kernel and the husk becomes
heated, and seeing and feeling that it is agitated by the fire, it
violently bursts the husk, and makes the familiar noise. In like
manner the vapors produced in the bowels and cavities of the earth,
burst forth from it in order to get out, and keep searching for the
weakest point or breathing hole for exit, until they find it. Thus it
was observed in the year 1586 on July g that an earthquake ran
along the coast for 160 leagues, and over 40 inland; that was the
great quake they had in Lima, although it did little damage since
it came in the daytime. Then there was that of the year 1619, on
the Thursday after Ash Wednesday, at 10:30 a.m.; that destroyed the
city of Trujillo at that hour and traveled so easily and violently
that it reached Lima before 11, a distance of nearly 100 leagues
from Trujillo. At that day and hour I was in the silversmith district
of Lima and felt it, and everybody rushed in flight from their houses
into the street; within 4 days we learned of the great damage it
had caused, and the plea for aid from the Viceroy, since the shock
had so completely ruined it.

1406. Furthermore, if another cause of earthquakes is sought, it
is to be found in the volcanoes, of which there are many in the Indies,
and more particularly in those regions; for in the Kingdom of Peru
near Quito rise Tunguragua, Pichincha and others; there is that
of Arequipa; and many others of less importance scattered through
the country and on the heights near Arica, Sacama [and others],
and those in the Kingdom of Chile in the center of the Cordillera
Nevada and [the many to be found] in Guatemala, Honduras, and
Nicaragua, as already described.

1407. These regions and provinces where they have these volcanoes
are the ones most afflicted and damaged by earthquakes. Besides
those mentioned, there was one in the Kingdom of Chile so violent
that it blocked the large deep Rio de Valdivia, which can receive

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 511

200 deep-sea galleons in its harbor; the quake was so severe that
besides other great damage caused in the Kingdom, it overturned a
mountain ridge and threw it across this large river. This dammed
it up and for a considerable time it was unable to follow its course
to the ocean; it formed an inland sea which caused great damage
and flooded out many settlements in the district, while its bed down
to sea dried up. Then its powerful current burst forth with great
violence across country and it rushed in furious vexation down to
the ocean ; there were some ships sailing by the harbor, and its furious
violence was such that it carried them several leagues out to sea.
In the case of another earthquake which occurred at Quito, another
volcano erupted, and the filthy mass of red-hot rocks and pumice
stone which it cast out, dammed a large river which flowed nearby,
so that its current was blocked for a period of 3 days, until the water
ran over, and carrying ahead most of the mass, cleaned out and
resumed its channel. In Nicaragua there were such great shocks
caused by the volcanoes which they have in that province that in
the year 1606 the Leon volcano thundered and roared violently
and at the same time caused such terrible quakes that the very earth
lifted itself over a stade above its former level and was left all
full of cracks, openings, and caverns; it ruined and destroyed that
city, and I have already remarked that the earth seemed desirous
of swallowing them up. In Guatemala the proximity of its volcanoes
has caused terrible quakes, which it would take too long to describe ;
the same is true of Mexico City and Puebla and all that region,
occasioned more by the volcano and sierra of Tlaxcala than by any
other.

1408. A possible cause of earthquakes might also be found in the
fact that along the seacoasts cracks and hollows in the earth get
plugged and choked by the dampness from the water and thus the
hot vapors produced in the bowels and cavities of the earth, might
issue forth. But that does not seem to be a sufficient reason, for
it does not apply equally everywhere; that might happen in Spain,
but there are no volcanoes or earthquakes there, as there commonly
are in the Indies, for the reasons given, unless the following is the
principal cause and reason.

In the Indies they do not have wells, as in Spain; these might
easily obviate their affliction; or at least by opening up wells in all
localities in the Indies, there would be more breathing holes and
fewer earthquakes. This must suffice for this subject, so that we
may continue with regard to the jurisdiction of the Diocese of
Arequipa.

512 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1409. From the Rio de Tambo one travels 5 leagues to Los Sauces,
where Don Pedro de Peralta, a resident of Arequipa, has a large mule
ranch on the lomas [on the coast] by the sea; every year he brands
over 200 mules. Near this establishment there are other lomas on
which there are excellent olive groves with mills which produce
much oil; the largest are the Jesus olive grove, and farther on, that
of Amoquinto, together with many others on the lomas of all that
coast, as far as the Hilo Valley, where there are many olive and fig
groves and vineyards. Licentiate Perea who lives on his establish-
ment down there almost at the water’s edge, takes in every year over
6,000 pesos from oil alone. This valley has no water because it dries
out, and if there is a little in some localities, it occurs in [a few]
depressions and notches where they cannot utilize it; this holds up
to 12 leagues inland, [where the valley] widens out into a great plain
in which two small rivers unite, coming down from [their sources in]
the heights of the sierra of the Province of Chucuito; [after thread-
ing different cafions], they join in this famous Moquegua Valley,
whose patroness against earthquakes is the glorious martyr Santa
Catalina. The town of Santa Catalina [San Francisco de Esquilache]
is built here; it will contain [with its valley] 80 Spanish residents,
who live in homes on their farms and vineyards. The river in this
lovely valley separates the jurisdictions of the Circuit Courts of Lima
and the Charcas, for all the valley and the vineyards on the N. side
of the river, which flows from E. to W., belong to the Circuit Court
of Lima; for this district the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for its
satisfactory administration and the dispensing of justice. In this
district they produce over 30,000 jugs of wine. On the other side
of the valley, to the S. of where the town is built, is the valley church,
under the patronage of Santa Catalina. There are a few vineyards
there; it comes under the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court of the
Charcas. The Governor of Chucuito appoints a representative here,
for it belongs to his jurisdiction. Besides all the above, this valley
is highly productive ; they raise excellent quinces here, large and small
peaches, pippins, figs, and other fruit of Spanish and native varieties,
and [very] good melons. There are sugar plantations and mills, and
down the valley, many farms with fields of wheat, corn, chickpeas,
kidney beans, pallares, and other cereals, and much aji or pepper is
raised in this valley, and everything brings a good price because of
the great demand for its products on llamaback for the Province of
Chucuito, and all the upland country. They get excellent crayfish
in this valley, and it is well supplied and rich in everything, and seems
a Paradise.

i

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 513

CHAPTER LIV [55] (56)

Of the Wide Jurisdiction of the Diocese, and Its Need of a Bishop.

1410. The Diocese of Arequipa has very extensive jurisdiction ;
in fact, merely along the seacoast plains from the Acari Valley, 70
leagues N. of Arequipa, [its boundary against the Archdiocese of
Lima], to the valley of Pica [which comes before] and Tarapaca on
the S., [12 leagues], which is the last point within the jurisdiction
of Arica, distant [from it] over 40 leagues to the S. and its [coast]
boundary with the Atacama deserts, limit of the district of this
diocese, it is 180 leagues. Along the sierra it contains the Provinces
of Los Collaguas, Condesuyos, Ubinas, and others, with large settle-
ments and rich tithes, for [all] the country is [very] wealthy. But
the Bishop cannot manage to pay episcopal visits and hold confirma-
tions, as he is under obligation to do, nor can he meet other needs.
For a long time the city of San Marcos de Arica, 65 leagues S. of
Arequipa, has been requesting a Bishop [to be given it] to meet the
needs it experiences [in this respect] and because it is new country
and every day brings up something which requires a solution.
It is possible to divide it up, and it is desirable to do so, for the
reasons advanced by the city [and I shall explain some of them].
If the division be made, the line [on the coast] should be along the
Hilo Valley, which is 36 leagues S. of Arequipa, passing up the
valley through Moquegua, which is 40 leagues S. Thus the juris-
diction of Arequipa would run to the line referred to, limit of the
Circuit Court of Lima, since the river running through the valley
is the boundary. Then the southern part of the valley will belong
to the new Diocese which should be located at the city of Arica, and
each will be manageable and have sufficient income and be better
administered, and other requirements would be met which are well
known and which I myself verified, having traveled, observed, and
considered with special care when I was in that country, and I noted
everything and looked into it, with a desire for its improvement.

1411. From the Moquegua Valley and the town of Santa Catalina
[San Francisco de Esquilache] it is 13 leagues down to Locumba.
From the settlement of Moquegua one passes down the valley 3
leagues among many farms in wheat, aji, and other crops and vege-
tables, until one leaves the valley and travels S. for 10 leagues over
an uninhabitable desert of sand and ashes, arriving in the Locumba

_ Valley. This is formed by two rivers which come down from the

:
|
;

sierra and unite near a little Indian settlement, where the church
stands and all the residents of the valley come to hear Mass on feast
34

514 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

days. This valley is [all] full of farms with fields of wheat, corn,
and pimentos; they all yield abundantly, for the land is very fertile.
[And] the valley, although it contains few Spaniards, is very rich,
because of the high price and great demand for the products [of this
region.| There is another village higher up, toward the sierra. The
curate of this valley says two Masses every feast day. The Spaniards
in this valley live remote from one another, according to the location
of their farms; no vineyards or olive groves grow here because their
water passes over alum and sulfur deposits; were it not for this
character of the water, the valley would be much richer, with vine-
yard establishments, for the land itself is good [but they cannot raise
them with this water]. There is only one vineyard; that is excellent ;
it brings in over 20,000 pesos every year to its owner, on account
of the high price and great demand for wine in that country. This
vineyard was planted by Capt. Garcia de Castro at a spot in this
valley where there is a well [which they call puquio there] of sweet
water, and they irrigate the vineyard from it, and all sorts of Spanish
and native fruit trees; certainly that spot is a bit of Paradise; his
heirs have the enjoyment of it today. Along the whole seacoast in
this region there are excellent lomas like those already described ;
there are [many] olive groves and oil presses and much cattle on
them, and the muleteers for the traffic from Arica to Potosi take
their mules down here at the proper season. [And I would note that
in these valleys and the others from Camana on, the wheat and corn
is manured (guano’d), and they usually harvest 500-fold. |

Cuaprer LV [56] (57)

Of the Valleys of Sama, Tacna, Lluta, and Others, etc.

1412, From this Locumba Valley it is 5 leagues S. to that of Sama.
[All these rivers and valleys of the Peruvian plains run from E.
to W.] This is an extensive valley with many Spanish residents,
almost all of them wealthy and important. Although there is plenty
of water here, it [runs over] alum [beds], and so they have no
vineyards or olive groves, but they raise large amounts of wheat
and corn; and although the land itself is so rich and the conditions
so favorable, when they manure the corn they have raised 1,000
fanegas from a single one. In this and the last valley they raise
quantities of pimento, which they call aji here; in the two they har-
vest about 200,000 baskets [of aji] which are carried on llamaback
to Potosi, Oruro, and all the sierra country, and bring in great wealth.
In this valley there are more than 50 Spanish residents living on
their farms. From here to the city of Arica it is 12 leagues.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 515

1413. On the heights and headlands of this valley there are two
[fine] Indian villages, called Tarata and Putina; they have a good
climate, run [excellent] cattle ranches, and raise [much] wheat and
corn. Five leagues from this valley to one side of the road is the
village of San Pedro de Tacna, which is nine leagues from Arica,
and through which they carry all the wine going up to Oruro and
La Paz through the Province of Los Pacajes. They bring the wine
from Arica up here on muleback, and shift it here to Ilamaback.
It is a large Indian village, [very] wealthy and with much traffic.
The Corregidor of Arica appoints a deputy here. But [rich as it is]
it is a shame that the curates and missionary friars (dotrineros) take
so little care of their church; they have not provided it with doors,
and the appurtenances are wretched, so that there is hardly enough
to say Mass with, and yet their curacy is worth every year over
4,000 or 5,000 pesos. This is because they need a Bishop, the present
one being so remote. ‘There is much that could be said on this subject,
but this note will suffice. There are a few Spaniards living in this
village, because of the lively business activity and the [great] richness
of the country.

1414, This valley is short of water, and yet contains many fields
of wheat, corn, aji, and other cereals, although none of the valley
water ever reaches the sea or the village. Up the valley there are
[very] good vineyards, where they produce over 8,000 jugs of wine.
From this village [of Tacna] to the city of Arica, it is 9 leagues;
1 league before reaching the city, one comes to the Chacalluta Valley,
right on the ocean’s edge, where its river flows in [from this valley].
This is very fertile, and for more than 16 leagues up the valley they
sow and reap much wheat and corn; it yields abundant and prolific
crops as described, when fertilized with guano. The best part of
the valley is the 7 leagues from the coast up [valley] to the tambo of
Huanta, on the road to Potosi; here they have many farms operated
by Spaniards with [many] Yanacona Indians and Negroes; they
cultivate broad fields of wheat, corn, and other cereals. In the midst
of the valley is the Indian village of Lluta, 4 leagues distant from
Arica. In this valley they have no vineyards or olive groves except
as mentioned, the water being full of sulfur and alum. The valley
has plenty of water and groves of trees; the King’s Highway from
Arica to Potosi passes through it; it is 6 leagues to Huanta; then
it climbs the Cuesta Blanca (White Grade) and reaches Copataya,
where the climate is already chilly, in the sierra, 20 leagues from
Arica. From there one goes to Cosapa and Los Berros, Titiri, and
Achoroma in the Province of Los Carangas; this brief account must

516 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

suffice, and we shall pass on to the description of the city of Arica
and its valley and district.

CuHapTer LVI [57] (58)

Of the City of San Marcos de Arica, Its Situation and Other
Features of the Country.

. 1415. The city of San Marcos de Arica is built on the Pacific
coast by the water’s edge, 210 leagues from the city of Lima at
19°20’ S. It is a modern foundation; Gen. Don Ordofio de Aguirre
established it in the year 1600 on a pestilential and unhealthy site.
It was under the shadow and shelter of a high headland or bluff at
the water’s edge, and enormous numbers of sea birds keep dying
there; they are innumerable on this coast, and much fish and many
seals die there too; and as the climate is hot, they decay at once
before the vultures eat them up, and poison the air passing along the
bluff and then through the city, so that the site is unhealthy. If they
had only settled a musketshot away from where it is, on the other
side of the Chimba or watercourse on a broad plain, to the left of
where the shrine of Santa Lucia stands, it would be one of the largest,
best, and most comfortable cities of all that Kingdom; the site is
extensive and level, high above the sea; boring down only a stade,
one can find water and dig wells, which would enable them to main-
tain excellent orchards and gardens; and they would likewise be free
from the earthquake shocks which usually prevail in that region.
The present site of the city is not only unhealthy but leaves no room
for expansion. The city will contain 100 Spanish residents, plus
numbers of Negroes and Yanaconas occupied both in service in the
city and on the farms which the residents own up the valley; there
are also many transients arriving and departing by sea and land.
It is a place with lively trade, a harbor, and a stopping place for all
the upland country ; many ships put in with cargoes of Spanish mer-
chandise, Huancavelica quicksilver and wine from the valleys; and
it is here that they bring and load the silver which comes from Potosi,
Oruro, Porco, Berenguela, Lipas, Chichas, and all the upland country,
and the Pacific fleet comes [here] to take it to Lima; and all the
ships coming up from the Kingdom of Chile stop off [here] for it
is a good safe harbor. There is a fort [here] at the water’s edge
with four small pieces of artillery and a few stone-mortars. It would
be wise for His Majesty to put more artillery here for the protection
of that city and port, for it is the first in the Kingdom of Peru as
one comes up from the Straits, and it is of the utmost importance

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 57

that this city and port be secure and adequately defended. There
is a parish church, a Mercedarian convent and the shrine of Santa
Lucia. The residents keep over 1,000 mules in great herds for the
transportation of goods to Potosi, the Charcas, and all the upland
country, and to bring back the silver to the port; they have large
flocks of llamas also, and they are all needed, for the traffic is great
and the way long and part of it through desert country [and the
country very rich] ; so people flock here from all sides.

1416. There is a Corregidor here, appointed by the Council, and
Royal Officials ; and since there is so much traffic and transportation,
and it is so remote from Arequipa and far more so, the Provinces
of Tarapaca and Pica, in which no Bishop has ever been seen since
the original discovery, the city has been long petitioning for [the
appointment of] a Bishop, to meet the needs felt by [it and] its
provinces ; in fact, as has been said, they have never seen a Bishop,
and the Indians, rather than go as far as Arequipa for dispensations,
never go through the marriage ceremony; there is much idolatry
because of the lack of a Bishop and the indifference of the priests.
I am an eyewitness of this and did something to help out by visiting
in the year 1618 the Indian villages of Lluta, Socoroma, Putre,
Tocrama, Lagnama (Tagnama?), Lupica, Sacsama, Timar, Codpa,
Cibitaya, Isquifia, Pachica, San Francisco de Umagata, Santiago de
Umagata, Chapiquifia, and Azapa; they lie in a district over 70
leagues long, some in hot valleys, some in the sierra, and at a distance
from each other; most of the natives living within the jurisdiction
of Arica on those uplands are intelligent; but thanks to the lack of
prelates, the priests or curates who had charge of them, neglected
them, and they were Christians only in name. I made wattle doors
for all their churches; I baptized many advanced in years, women
who had borne children and young men who were fully grown;
I burned down one village by the name of Isquiliza because most
people there were idolaters. There were many who had not gone
to confession once in their lives, and others who had not for Io, 12,
or 20 years. If there were only a prelate in Arica, the curates would
be more apprehensive and conscientious. Forty leagues to the S. it
contains the Tarapaca and Pica Valleys, which are rich in wheat,
corn, wine, and quantities of fish. The Province of Atacama might
be united with them; it runs up that same coast as far as the Mo-
quegua Valley mentioned above. The Corregidor of Arica appoints
four deputies in this district: one for the Locumba and Sama Valleys ;
another in Tatacana; another for the upland villages described above ;
and another for the Tarapaca and Pica Valleys. On the other side

518 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of the Chimba the city has vineyards and olive groves with a few
vegetable gardens. A stream with little water in it flows through
this valley, rising in the heights of Copataya and coming down from
the sierra in some deep ravines which here they call guaicos. The
two Umagata villages lie between very high bare sierras; they have
a marvelous climate, grow [much] wheat and corn, and take mar-
velous crayfish, which are to be found in all these plains rivers; and
although it is hot country, there are no alligators after the Rio de
Colan, which is near Paita.

1417. Coming down from these Umagata villages, one crosses the
river many times and emerges on wide plains; if there were only
water for the sowing and irrigation of its crops, it would be the
finest valley in Peru. Three leagues before reaching the city, one
comes to the Azapa Valley; there are [very] good vineyards here
and olive groves and presses for making oil, of which they produce
quantities ; they make over 8,000 jugs of wine. They irrigate these
in general from a few pools left by this wretched river, and there
are many controversies among the residents over their exploitation ;
they raise much wheat, corn, aji, melons, native cucumbers, and all
sorts of vegetables, which yield abundantly. Coming down the valley,
1 league before reaching the city one finds other pools with [very |
good vineyards and olive and fig groves [all yielding abundantly].
They grow wheat and corn and get excellent crops; in this valley
one fanega of wheat has produced 1,000-fold, sowed in clusters and
fertilized with guano. The olives in this valley and city are [much]
better than the best Spanish ones. These two valleys are a bit of
Paradise, with their prolific fertility; the vintage comes at the end
of Lent. Then the valley becomes dry, up to near the city; there,
right at the salt water’s edge, there is another pool welling up from
this wretched river. This is the celebrated totoral (cattail slough)
of Arica, a patch of cattails as large as a plaza, which God has pro-
vided there for their comfort; the ships depend on them for the
packing of their wine, etc. [with them], all the troops of beasts of
burden are fitted out with them for the arrangement of their loads
for Potosi and they make panniers [out of them] for the llamas to
carry wine and quicksilver in them; in fine, these cattails meet many
needs.

CuapTer LVII [58] (59)

Of the Excellent Mines in This District.
1418. [One line illegible]. There is in this country a mine of
wealth which meets every requirement ; many have grown rich from

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 519

it and from the traffic in it. The fact is that in this country all the
wheat and corn and other crops are guano’d, i.e., fertilized with
guano, both before and after planting, in order to bear abundantly
and profitably. The explanation is that 4o leagues from this city,
near Tarapaca and within sight from shore, there is a small barren
island to which repair many frigates to load soil from this island ;
it is yellowish white, smelling like shellfish, and not very heavy ;
they call it guano and bring it in frigates to this city and all the
ports and valleys and sell it by the fanega; it usually sells for 12
or 14 reals a fanega, and all the farmers buy it for their crops and
the Indians freight it on their llamas. In fact, they would rather
go without eating than without buying their guano, for with its use,
a fanega of grain usually yields 300, 400, or 500 fanegas, but without
it, yields no more than with us. So they put guano on all their plant-
ings and in this way a farmer gets more from 10 fanegas in those
valleys than from 100 with us; it happened that a certain Gonzalo
de Valencia sowed 8 almudes or celemines (pecks) of wheat in
clusters, as one plants beans; he put guano on them and harvested
1,000 fanegas. And since so much has been taken from that barren
island, some say that it is soil that God put there for that purpose,
and others that it is the excrement of sea birds, which are so abundant
along that coast that they cover the heavens; the Indians who cannot
get out there, go and hunt for it among the cliffs along the shore;
but it has enriched many who have made a business of it with their
frigates.

1419. There is another mysterious and indispensable mine of wealth
in this country, as follows ; wherever you may be on these uninhabit-
able deserts, if you clear off four fingers of sand, or somewhat
more—and this applies to all this city’s jurisdiction, together with
Locumba, Sama, and that whole country—you find salt mines and
slabs of salt, very white and good, and enough to supply the whole
world.

1420. There is another mysterious mine in this country for the
relief of the poor, which is the following: in the months of February
and March, huge shoals of fish, small and large, come in from sea—
sardines, which they call anchovetas here, pejerreyes, tomollos,
mojarras, and many other varieties of fish—and are pursued by
other larger fish, like young whales (ballenatos), of which there are
many along that coast, and other big fish, swordfish and seals. In
their flight from these large fish, the shoals come in toward the coast,
almost jumping along on top of the water, and under the water;
that attracts quantities of sea birds, like gulls, tropic birds, fishing

520 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

eagles (guaraguaos), pelicans, and others which obscure the heavens ;
they also devour and pursue these shoals; so, seeing themselves
pursued by the large fish in the sea and the birds up above, they
dash up on the coast beyond the water line in such quantities that
for 2 or 3 leagues the shore is covered with these fish, and boats
can be loaded with them. Then the poor people come down and
many of the natives and gather great numbers and dry them in the sun
both to keep and to take up into the sierra. I saw this myself the
year I was in that city and they assured me that it occurred regularly
every year without fail. Apart from this, the city is well supplied
with delicious fish, and some Spaniards have grown rich from the
fish trade alone. The Indians also kill those redoubtable sea lions
and skin them; they sew the skins and fasten them up tight and then
blow them up with air, and with two of them they float a raft; these
are their boats and with them they go 3 or 4 leagues out to sea to
fish in great security and return loaded down with fish; when I saw
this I was astonished and I gave thanks to Our Lord, who is to be
glorified in all things.

1421. On this coast there are some very large birds, to be found
also all over Peru, but those in this region are much larger, and
different ; they call them condors; there are black and mottled ones;
they are so large that from one wing tip to the other it is over 16 feet.
They are very savage and most of them have very tall crests, like
those of roosters. They come up to the savage sea lions, which are
sometimes larger than yearling calves; they lie stretched out in the
sun, and are clumsy on land, having no feet, but supporting them-
selves on their fins when they come out on land; and although they
have very large and fierce teeth and tusks, these savage birds lay
siege to them and they make skillful passes at their eyes and gouge
them out; and so in their fight with them, they kill and eat them.
The eggs they lay are a little smaller than ostrich eggs.

1422. All these remarkable things are to be found in the district
of this city, with many others worth regarding which I forbear men-
tioning in my desire to avoid prolixity. The city is well supplied with
excellent meat and poultry. The bread ranks among the best to be
found in that Kingdom and is very palatable; it has to be eaten
fresh, for it gets a slight flavor of guano, though not enough to be
unpleasant. It has many varieties of excellent Spanish and native
fruit, and marvelous olives, which are gathered in the valley; at 6
leagues from the city in the valley which comes down from Codpa,
to the S., they have vineyards. Six leagues farther is the Rio de
Camarones (crayfish), so named from the quantity they get from it.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 521

Six leagues beyond to the S. is the vailey of Matorral; it is again
six [twelve] from Matorral to Tarapaca, and twelve to the Pica
Valley, which is as far as the jurisdiction of Arica at present extends.
This all belongs to the Diocese of Arequipa, and for the reasons
given and because this port and city have so many visitors
and for the better discipline and the confirmation of its residents,
it is desirable that this city be granted a prelate. That would meet
many requirements, as the city remarks; since it is new country,
every day brings need of new remedies and discipline until everything
gets settled. With the presence of a spiritual shepherd, the Indians
will be better Christianized and instructed, and will embrace the
principles of the Faith with greater love. I assure the gentlemen
of the Council who direct the affairs of that realm with their laudable
desire to be fully informed in all matters in His Majesty’s service,
that if they had traveled, seen, and considered these matters, they
would doubtless regulate them as I indicate in this book.

Cuapter LVIII [59] (60)

Of the District of the Diocese of the City of Guamanga
(Ayacucho) and of the Provinces It Contains.

1423. After finishing the description of the Diocese of Arequipa,
which is along the seacoast as has been stated in the preceding chap-
ters, we must return over the same plains to the Archdiocese of
Lima and start on the sierra road which can be reached from the
Nasca Valley, crossing the Provinces of Los Lucanas and Vilcas,
as will be told in its proper place; from Lima one passes through
the famous Province and valley of Jauja, over the King’s Highway
to the sierra.

1424. The city of San Juan de la Vitoria de Guamanga is 80
leagues SE. of Lima, on the Cuzco King’s Highway. It was founded
by Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro in the year 1539, on account of
the great distance between Lima and Cuzco without a single town
or city of Spaniards; for this reason Mango Inca, son of Huayna
Capac, with a large number of Indians attacked the Spaniards travel-
ing from Lima to Cuzco, causing great damage and killing many
of them; and although Capt. Villa Diego set out with 30 Spaniards
in pursuit of the Inca, the whole Spanish force was killed by the
Indians in a sierra. And after the Inca had made his raids and his
forays, he retired with his Indians into the Viticos or Vilcabamba
Mountains; this locality was impossible to storm and was so rough
that the Spaniards could not penetrate without great effort, risk, or

522 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

harm; and there was no remedy for it except establishing a Spanish
settlement and garrison.

1425. He founded and established the city of Guamanga at an
Indian village of the same name close by the great Cordillera of
the Andes; and after he had established the settlers there and appor-
tioned among them the Indians of the provinces which he designated
as its district, Don Francisco Pizarro tried by every possible means
to bring the Inca to submission and put an end to these great losses
and murders ; but the savage would never agree to any of the proposals
made to him; and so the Marqués decided to make war on him and
force him to fight. He named his brother Gonzalo Pizarro for this
task ; and although he pressed him hard on various occasions, Mango
Inca made loud professions of desiring peace, but deceitfully, to see
if he could arrange for better opportunities of carrying out his
attacks ; he sent word to the Marqués, seeing that he was hard pressed
by Gonzalo Pizarro and his men, and asked for peace under certain
conditions which he formulated.

1426, At this news, Don Francisco Pizarro set out quickly for
the Yucay Valley with the desire of repressing Inca Mango Capac
Yupangui; he sent him word from there that he was waiting for him,
to settle the conditions of peace and give him full satisfaction ; and
to put him under greater obligation he sent him a present of silk
clothing, a white pony, and other valuables, with two of his own
servitors whom he sent as ambassadors; and as the Inca never had
any intention of being friendly with the Spaniards, for he said they
had taken his country away from him and tyrannized over it, he
killed the envoys and withdrew to Viticos, making a mock of Don
Francisco Pizarro, who felt it keenly, and in revenge killed one of
the Inca’s wives whom he held captive, although she was not at fault.

Later, some of the Spaniards deserted to the Inca, where he was
up in the mountains, recklessly devoting himself to gambling;
one killed the Inca, as the histories relate, but the Indians killed
them; but for a time in this respect the country stayed peaceful and
undisturbed.

CHAPTER LIX [60] (61)

Of the City of San Juan de la Victoria de Guamanga, of Its
Situation and Marvelous Climate, and the Valleys It Contains in
Its Neighborhood.

1427. After the campaigns against the Inca Mango Capac had
ended, and the whole country had quieted down, the residents of the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 523

new city of Guamanga realized that the site and location where it
had been established, was not suitable, so they moved it to where it
stands today. For this they chose a level spot with a brook running
through it with sweet and crystal-clear waters, and they built their
city on its banks, having transferred it from the other site. Toward
the N. it has some low ranges or hills which might almost serve as
its walls; you cannot see the city until you get near it. Its climate
ranks among the best and most delightful in the Kingdom of Peru;
it is always springtime, with cheerful skies and healthful breezes;
it is in (blank) degrees S.; the temperature is equable, highly con-
stant, and (continued in 1429).

1428. In the following list are tabulated all the encomiendas and
tributary Indians, the old people, boys, and women in all the prov-
inces of the districts of the cities and Archdioceses of Lima and
Charcas, and the Dioceses of Trujillo, part of Quito, those of Gua-
manga, Cuzco, La Paz, and Arequipa; I would remark that the
Indians paying tribute are those between the ages of 18 and 50;
after 50, they are exempt from tribute.

(The rest of folio 76 is blank, and folio 77 is lacking.)

1429. (continuation of 1427) healthful, without annoyance from
the sun or heat or cold, because there is no excess of any of them.
All the buildings and houses in this city are very sumptuous, among
the finest in Peru; the houses all have large portals and are built
of cut stone and brick, of excellent architecture. The city will con-
tain 400 Spanish residents and mestizos, plus a large service con-
tingent of native Indians, Yanaconas, Negroes, and mulattoes ; there
are two outer wards; one is administered by Dominicans and the
other by priests. This city has an excellent Cathedral, residence of
the Bishop of this city and its provinces, which lie between the
Archdiocese of Lima, almost directly N. of it, and the Diocese of
Cuzco, which is to its S. It was carved out of them and constituted
in the days of the Marqués de Montesclaros in the year 1610; their
jurisdiction was too extensive, and such an arrangement was desirable
because these new countries needed a satisfactory administration. The
first Bishop whom they had in this city was Don Fray Augustin de
Carvajal, of the Augustinian Order ; after his death he was succeeded
by the Inquisitor Verdugo, who governs that church at present, with
its priests and prebendaries to serve it.

1430. The city contains excellent Dominican, Franciscan, Augus-
tinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, and an excellent nunnery
of nuns of Santa Clara; there is a hospital for the care of the indigent
sick, and in addition, other shrines and churches. This city is at

524 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the halfway point of the King’s Highway of the Incas, between
Lima and Cuzco. Within a 5-league circuit it has very fertile and
prolific valleys with a hot climate; in them there are vineyards, pear
orchards, pippins, apples, quinces, peaches, figs, and all the other
Spanish and native varieties of fruit, in great abundance. These
valleys are delightful resorts and much frequented, as, e.g., Yucay,
1 league from the city, and Vifiaca, 3, with excellent vineyards and
orchards of these fruit trees just mentioned; at I league from the
city there is a riverside district with gristmills. There are many
settlements in the neighborhood, such as Huamanguilla, 4 leagues
off, and La Quinua and others, all very fertile; all over these valleys
there are many people living on farms where they sow and reap
much wheat, corn, and other cereals ; there are many cattle and sheep
and hog ranches; almost all this area described lies to the ENE. of
the city.

1481. In the district of this Diocese there are seven Corregimientos ;
two are in the appointment of the Council: that of the city of
Guamanga, and that of Castrovirreina; and five under the Viceroy:
a Governor of the quicksilver mines of Huancavelica ; the Corregidors
of Sangaro, Huanta, Vilcas, the Province of Los Lucanas, and that
of Los Chocorvos, in which lie the mines of Castrovirreina; he is
usually aggregated to the Corregidor of the mines.

The Corregidor of Guamanga, appointed by the Council, has juris-
diction over the 5 leagues round about, including all the Indian villages
in this district, in which there are many cattle, sheep, and hog ranches,
and fields of wheat, corn, and other crops and cereals. The place
is full of transients, being on the King’s Highway, with an active
trade and abundance of excellent supplies.

CuHaptTer LX [61] (62)

Continuing the Description of the Diocese.

1482. In this district, besides what has been mentioned, much wine
is produced in the valleys and much is brought in on llamaback from
the valleys of Ica, Ingenio, and Nasca, which lie to its W.; and on
the cold puna in between there are many llama ranches, etc.

1433. Five leagues ENE. of the city is the famous Huanta Valley,
with a marvelous springlike climate the whole year through, so that
it seems a bit of Paradise on earth. E. and W. it is 7 leagues long,
with a large river running straight through it; at the end of the
valley it enters the Andes, and by its junction with the Rio de Jauja
it becomes a mighty stream, and with other affluents swells the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 525

Maranon and empties into the Atlantic. The valley is a league and
a half wide, or over.

1434. In this excellent valley there are many farmhouses with
vineyards, gardens or chacras, and cattle ranches, since the region
is marvelously fertile and has excellent climate and weather. The
village of Huanta lies here; it has a mixed Spanish and Indian popu-
lation, and is the residence of the Corregidor appointed for the
Province of Sangaro by the Viceroy. This village has an active trade
and is much frequented both for its fertility and good climate and
because it lies on the King’s Highway from Lima and other provinces
to Cuzco, Potosi and all the upland country. In this valley and
village one finds abundance of all the Spanish and native varieties
of fruit mentioned, the whole year through, on account of its excellent
climate; grapes begin ripening about New Year’s. One league E. of
here is another Indian village with the same climatic conditions,
named Lorococha, and three leagues E., near the Andes, up in the
high cold sierra country, lie the mines of Hualla; these have rich
veins of silver, but all those who work them are poor; although the
ore is very rich, they cannot enrich themselves because there is
no one to provide them with aid and capital, and yet the ore is very
rich. In the jurisdiction of this Province and Corregimiento of
Sangaro there are many other Indian villages, like Julcamarca, 6
leagues WNW. of Huanta and near a mysterious hill of rock salt
which God created in that region; one must give thanks to Him
in His Providence for this supply for all those provinces. There
are many other excellent valleys with many cattle ranches and corn,
wheat, and potato farms, with other products and cereals of excellent
quality. This account must suffice for the Corregimiento of Huanta
or Sangaro, and we shall go on to describe that of Vilcas.

1435. Starting S. from Guamanga on the Cuzco highway, one
turns W. and travels 9 leagues most of the way through cold country
to the village of Putica in the Province of Vilcas, with a good climate.
From here it is half a league downhill to the village of Cangallo,
which has a hot climate and is plentifully supplied with meat, fish,
and Spanish and native farm products. This is the residence of the
Corregidor of these provinces, appointed by the Viceroy; there is
a Royal Treasury here. Near this village runs a large river which
flows through the whole Province of Vilcas; it rises in the Choc-
loccocha lakes by the Castrovirreina mines and its waters run two
of the ore mills at those mines; then it traverses this province and
by its union with others becomes a mighty stream and swells the
great Rio Marafidn, emptying into the Atlantic under the Line.

526 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Opposite the village of Putica, half a league uphill, is the village of
Carmenga; half a league farther down to the WSW. is the village
of Huancarma, with delicious fish and fruit. At this village they
cross the river on rafts made of many bundles of bamboos fastened
together; they put their freight on them, the passengers have to
lie down flat, and the Indians swim alongside and push till they reach
the other bank of the powerful stream.

1436. Next comes another village named Chircamara; a league
and a half beyond this is that of Qialla (sic), and a league farther,
that of Colca, and farther on, Cayara, and half a league from there,
a woolen mill for grograms called Chilmero. Half a league beyond
this mill is the village of Hualla; another half league brings one to
Tiara; 2 leagues farther on is the village of Canaria, on the other
side of the river; this is the largest of the whole 11. These are all
built within sight of the river of this Vilcas Province; there are
other smaller villages which I pass over, scattered inland. The whole
province is fertile in food crops; there are cattle, sheep, hog, and
llama ranches here. It is 10 leagues from Hualla, the last village
in Vilcas Province, along the highway to Aucara, which is in the
Province of Los Andamarcas, Soras, and Lucanas. The Corregidor
of these provinces resides in Aucara; in their villages there are five
curates who administer the Holy Sacraments to the Indians. On the
other side of the river to the S. lie the villages of the Province of
Los Soras, and that of Hatunsura, capital of the province and the
point where the Diocese of Guamanga borders on that of Cuzco.

1487. Four leagues from Aucara, in the midst of the cold puna,
lies a little Indian village of salters, called La Sal (salt), because
they make fine white salt from salt springs, boiling it in jars; that
is where those provinces get their salt. It is a miracle if these poor
Indians abandoned there in the desert, ever see a priest; I, though
an unworthy minister of the Lord, being desirous of pleasing Him
by preaching His Divine Word over those vast territories, carried
with me all the appurtenances for saying Mass. I reached that
village on Shrove Tuesday at night in the year 1617. At my arrival
they were overjoyed; I said Mass for them with due formality, and
I ministered to their spiritual needs, and they assured me that it was
over a year since they had heard Mass, and many years since on that
feast day they had had Mass or received ashes; and I baptized the
Indian children and grown boys who should have been christened
many months or years earlier.

1438. From this village it is 14 leagues of desert country traveling
W. crossing the uninhabitable puna; when I went through it snowed

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 527

so hard that on that desert one of my mules and an excellent saddle
horse were frozen to death. On these cold wastes there are nothing
but miches, a sort of huts for the shepherds, where they look after
large herds of llamas; over these punas roam countless numbers of
wild llamas which they call cimarron, the vicufas and guanacos.
I suffered many trials in these deserts in my efforts for the spiritual
relief of these Indians, who live up there like brute breasts, without
knowledge of the Faith, and many of them still in their idolatries.

1439. After crossing these 14 leagues of desert, one reaches the
village of Hatunlucana, capital of the province. From this village
to the Nasca Valley, the last in the Archdiocese of Lima and where
large amounts of the best wine in the Kingdom are produced, it is
16 leagues of desert, all of it cold country until one reaches Tambo
Quemado, 4 leagues before Nasca, where the climate is already spring-
like. Four leagues N. of Hatunlucana is the village of Puquio, with
two curates; near this is another named Santiago; these belong to
the Corregimiento of Los Lucanas. The river which rises in these
provinces passes into the Acari Valley, which is in the plains country
along the coast in the Diocese of Arequipa; along the sierra it borders
on the province of Los Parinacochas, the westernmost of the Diocese
of Cuzco; on the N. the Province of Los Lucanas adjoins that of
Los Chocorvos, in which was founded the city of Castrovirreina,
in the Indian language called Chocloccocha, of which I shall write
in the following chapters.

CHAPTER LXI [62] (63)

Of the City of Castrovirreina, of Its Founding, and When Its
Mines Were Discovered.

1440. The Marqués de Cafete, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza,
being Viceroy of Peru, was notified and informed of the silver mines
discovered in the year 1590 in the ranges known as San Juan del
Griego and La Trinidad. He commissioned Don Pedro de Cordoba
Mexia, a Knight of the Order of Santiago, to establish a town and
call it Castrovirreina and apportion 2,000 Indians from the adjoining
provinces for work in the mines and for service in the city and do
all else necessary for its permanence. He searched for the best loca-
tion and decided on one in a plain called Coycapaleca, which in the
Indian tongue means union of two rivers. Having celebrated the
formalities necessary for its founding he parceled out the home sites
and named the Aldermen, taking possession of it in His Majesty’s
name on July 22, day of the Magdalen, in the year 1591. From

528 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

then on it was a town up to the year 1594, when, on August 8, the
said Viceroy designated it as a city of Spaniards, in conformity with
a warrant of King Don Philip II of glorious memory, issued at
El Pardo on November 8, 1593, confirming the name it bore, and
that is why it is called Castrovirreina. It was built in the Province
of Los Chocorvos in the district of the Circuit Court of Lima; on
its escutcheon it bears the lakes bordering the ranges where the silver
mines are. No excise duties (alcabala) are paid here, thanks to a
grant issued by the said Viceroy on August 8, 1594, to run 6 years,
but it is still in force. It contains 100 houses, a main street and other
side streets; there is a plaza, with the church and the Royal Apart-
ments on it; but all the buildings are made of adobe, low and straw-
thatched.

1441. There are two tribunals, that of the Governor and that of
the Royal Officials. As officials of these courts there are an Alguacil
Mayor and simple Alguaciles, and the Secretary of the Council, who
is also Public Secretary and Recorder (Escrivano de Registros).
The Governor is concerned with the city administration and also
with the theory and practice of the mines which extract the ore and
the mills in which they treat it, and in seeing that the Indians come
to them from the various provinces and that they are well treated
and paid, as is provided by the Viceroys’ ordinances; they keep
improving them as seems advisable.

The offices of the public functionaries carry no salaries; they are
salable and transferable; they were instituted when the city was
founded. The post of Alguacil Mayor was sold for 16,000 8-real
pesos; he appoints his subordinate Alguaciles. That of Secretary
went for 3,000 pesos. They elect the Royal Ensign (Alférez Real),
four Aldermen, a Confraternity Alcalde, and a City Attorney on
New Year’s Day; they are approved by the Governor. The city
keeps as its own the correduria (brokerage tax) and mojoneria
(demarcation fee), and they bring in a little over 180 pesos income
every year; this privilege was granted by the Viceroy on July 20,
1593. It is 70 leagues from this city to Lima.

1442. In the year 1610 there were 86 residents of this city, not
counting transients; 26 were married. In the number were 3 Portu-
guese and 20 foreigners—11 Genoese, 7 Corsicans, I Savoyard,
1 Levantine; 6 of them were naturalized (compuestos) by per-
mission of the Viceroy.

The chief business of this city is its mines and smelters; but the
owners are in debt for more than their value; they are sustained
by hopes for the future, and the same is true of those who contract

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 529

with them. There are eight businessmen dealing in Spanish and
native merchandise, who live there on the plaza, not to mention others
who come up frequently for business transactions.

1443. The city lies in 11°47’ S. The town and quicksilver mines
of Huancavelica bear N. 13 leagues; 9 leagues WNW. lies the
Province of Los Huachos which is annexed to the Corregimiento
de Los Chocorvos and attached to this State. Twenty-two leagues
SW. is the port of Pisco in the plains country on the seacoast; and
the town of Ica is 24 leagues S. To the SE. is the village of Santiago,
capital of the Province and Corregimiento of Los Chocorvos; and
the city of Guamanga is 24 leagues ESE.

CuapTer LXII [63] (64)

Continuing the Description of the City of Castrovirreina and Its
District.

1444, The silver mines are N. of the city, which has a jurisdiction
of 20 leagues round about; its boundaries are as indicated above.
It is all rough, cold country ; all it has is a kind of grass called icho,
like esparto grass; but 4 leagues away there are some woods where
there are plenty of trees growing among the rocks which are called
quinua, characteristic of the puna; they bear no fruit and are only
good for firewood and charcoal. Since the city lies high up and is
windy, its climate is very cold, most severe from June to September ;
it is very healthy.

Two streams run near the city, enclosing it between them; they
rise 2 leagues away and originate in the snow and the pools formed
when it rains, which is the period between December and March.
They are utilized by the mills for the grinding and washing of the
ore; and even when they are in flood they do no harm to the city
or the mills. These rivers finally empty into the Pacific by the port
of Pisco.

1445. There are six lakes in this neighborhood. One is at the
highest point of the La Trinidad range, 3 leagues from the city.
This discharges at two opposite points, S. and N.; to the N. it runs
into two other lakes in succession, one after the other; these two
lakes are more than a league in circuit; they are fresh water, but
contain no fish, being quite frigid. They are fed by watercourses
coming from the snow as it melts; they all flow toward the river
passing by the city, where the mills are built. These waters run W.
to the Pacific. Others in these same mine ranges, and lake waters
also, flow to the Atlantic, and there are two silver mills built on
them, those of Ayala and of Francisco Conterino.

35

530 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1446. They grow potatoes, which are like ground truffles; ocas;
macas, which are like small turnips; and ollucos; these are all root
crops. Their manner of cultivating the ground is as follows; they
use a small plow, which the Indians call taclla; they carry it in their
hands and drive it in with the right foot to penetrate the ground.
These roots come to 20 or 25 to the fanega; they cannot grow wheat,
barley, or corn, for the land is too cold, although there are some
ravines nearby, at a quarter league and a league, where they do very
well, downstream by the river passing by the city and others near
at hand; they raise cabbage, garlic, lettuce, peaches, and frutilla de
Chile, which is their strawberry, but larger and better. They get
wine from the Ica and Pisco Valleys, and Umay, and the Governor
regularly apportions Indians for the transport, so that the city may
be provided with wine, flour, and other necessary foodstuffs. Six
arrobas of flour usually sell for 6 or 7 pesos; corn the same; an
arroba of beef cost 4 reals in the year 1610; at present it is worth
less ; a sheep sells for 8 reals; 22 ounces of bread, I real; a cuartillo
(quart) of wine, i.e., half an azumbre (3 gallon), 3 reals, and so on
for other supplies, so that the city is well provided all the year with
the products and fruit coming up to it from the valleys.

In the year 1610 there were four cattle ranches, four sheep ranches,
five of goats, and one of mules, and a few farms. On these ranches
there were 1,600 cattle, 5,000 sheep, 12,000 goats, and 400 brood
mares. At present there are many more, for they breed well and
multiply rapidly. Each head of cattle was worth 10 8-real pesos;
a goat, 10 reals; a sheep, 6; an unbroken mule, 45 pesos; they are
all cheaper now.

CHAPTER LXIII [64] (65)

Of the Mines and Mills in This City, and How They Manipulate
thes©re:

1447. In the San Juan del Griego and La Trinidad ranges, over
50 principal veins of silver have been recorded, and on them, more
than 400 mines each 60 varas long and 30 wide. Those of San
Augustin and Santa Lucia are very rich and good, not to speak of
many others, all silver mines; there are some garnet and lead mines,
at a distance of from I to 12 leagues.

In this district there are no salt or saltpeter deposits. There are
20 Spanish superintendents employed in the mines, and 1,560 Indians,
as will be observed in the table following. The ore is all treated with
quicksilver in the following manner: the 13 mills are all run by

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 531

water power and none by horse power; the ore is freighted from the
mines to the mills on llamaback; the mills have water enough to
grind ore all the year ; in a year each can grind 25,000 quintals of ore.

1448, The ore is ground in the mills, and is then passed through
a coarse wire sieve, coming out like wheat flour. Then they roast
it in ovens to get rid of the dross contained in the ore—sulfur,
galena (alcojol), antimony, and other impurities in it. Then they
are ready to have the quicksilver amalgamate with the silver. Ex-
perience has shown that these ores have to be handled differently
from those at Potosi. They take it to the troughs directly from the
ovens, and then add a little water and salt which has been ground
and sifted, and quicksilver, and they keep adding water little by
little so as to form a muddy mass; they keep kneading it like dough
' with their feet in these same troughs; every 3 days they repeat the
process and keep adding salt and quicksilver according to the need.
Then they put it in a vat and wash it with a beater run by a water
mill called a labadero. After this washing the silver is amalgamated
with the quicksilver; they put it in coarse sacking and squeeze it
hard to get the quicksilver out, which leaves the silver like dough.
Then they make cakes of it, one like a sugar loaf, and arrange two
earthen jars, one above and one below; they put the silver above a
perforated plate between the two and apply fire to the upper jar;
that releases the silver, for the quicksilver goes through the perfora-
tions and drops into the lower jar, which has a little water in it. That
leaves the silver pure and free from it, and whiter than snow. Then
they carry it off to be melted into bars, the Assayer grades it, and
then they take it to the Royal Officials for the deduction of the royal
20 percent impost.

1449. Taking one year with another, they get annually from
36,000 to 40,000 marks of silver from these mines. At the beginning
the ore yielded 2 or 3 silver marks from each quintal, each mark
being of 11 ounces; there is other ore yielding 4 marks, more or less.
Now in general they get better results than at the start, for they have
come to a better knowledge and understanding of the processes.

On each of these veins His Majesty has a recorded mine; these
are rented out and from these leases His Majesty will receive an-
nually on the average 1,500 assay pesos. The Alcalde Mayor, who
is the Governor, has charge of these mines, with an Overseer (Veedor )
and a Protector of the Indians, all appointed by the Viceroy.

1450. When the Marqués de Cafiete commissioned the establish-
ment of this city and its mines, he assigned 2,100 Indians to them,
and ordered that each should receive a daily wage of 23 reals, plus

532 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1 real for every 6 leagues he had to travel to come to the mines and
to return home; the 24 reals were to be paid to the Indian and the
real for his coming and returning and the } real should be deposited
in the fund for the payment of salaries which he prescribed in his
decree, as follows:

For three priests, clerics, whom he named as curates, two for the city

and one for the ranges, each 800 assay pesos a year salary (de sinodo).... 2,400
Foran Overseer, Soocassay: pesos: a cyeats as avis mae eevee et eae 800
For.a Protector of the Indians, 600. assay -peSOS. <2. .cs «200 ey cemacine 600
For the Paymaster of this Royal Treasury, 300 assay pesos........... 300
For the hospitals for the care and comfort of the sick Indians, 800 assay

PESOS TS sapsreachs area ors crore Sreiele ise SS ore ie ote oO ene Cee eee 800
Hor theidoctoriG00%assay pesos ss acca ee eee ree eee 600
In addition, this treasury pays salaries to the curacas, who come from

their provinces as captains of the Indians whom they bring down from

there: this. comes each year to 1,000 assay, peSOSe) a1aceeieto es cieee e rerls 1,000

Cuaprer LXIV [65] (66)

Continuing the Description of the Preceding Topic.

1451. The 4 real which is applied to the salaries is called the grano,
and so the treasury into which it is paid is called de Granos. Of the
1,560 Indians assigned (repartidos) to work in the mines, their
masters take as many as are necessary for the mills and the handling
of the ore, i.e., in each mill there are ordinarily engaged 40 Indians
and I or 2 Spaniards.

Each year they bring in over 15,000 quintals of fine salt for the
treatment of the silver ore. Each quintal costs 8 reals, and 3 real
is paid to His Majesty for each quintal at the salt works. The Indians
on forced labor (mita) earn 23 reals each day; and the mingados,
who hire themselves out to free-lance miners (aventureros), get
4 reals.

1452. In the Royal Treasury, besides the Royal Officials, there
is an Assayer appointed by the Viceroy. This Treasury receives a
1} percent impost, the derechos de cobos formerly assigned to the
Crown; Io percent instead of the royal 20 percent on the silver from
the mines, this Io percent being a grant from the Viceroy to the
residents and miners in this city; and although he made them this
grant in the year 1611, His Majesty has extended it. These imposts
on the average come to 20,000 assay pesos a year; the mine leases
bring in 1,500; the payments on the sale of the quicksilver which

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 533

His Majesty brings down for them from Huancavelica, 15,000 assay
pesos ; the sale of salt, 600 assay pesos; all of this in an average year
will amount to 36,000 assay pesos, which is the sum received by the
Treasury. Out of it are paid: to the Governor, a salary of 600 assay
pesos ; to each of the Royal Officials, 800 assay pesos ; to the Assayer,
500 assay pesos; to the Corregidor of Guamanga, 2,000 assay pesos,
paid him by virtue of his titles. Every year the occasional and
extraordinary expenditures of this Treasury will amount to 100
8-real pesos, in paper, ink, books, and repairs of the Royal Treasury
and in the smelting. In an average year His Majesty’s net receipts
will be 32,000 assay pesos, the sum turned over to the Viceroy each
year.

1453. The parish church in this city is dedicated to Our Lady of the
Snows, and there are two others on the ranges dedicated to San
Augustin and San Juan. The church in this city counted 86 Spanish
parishioners in the year 1610, plus many transients and the Indians.
These churches are served by three curates, as has been remarked ;
there are four Confraternities: one of the Holy Sacrament, one of
Our Lady, one of the True Cross, and another of Las Animas (souls
in Purgatory). Every week, on Monday, Thursday, Friday, and
Saturday, there is a Mass sung by the confréres. With the 800 pesos
salary paid by the Treasury of Los Granos, and the contributions
(pié de altar), each curacy is worth 2,000 assay pesos. The Bishop
of Guamanga nominates the curates, and the Viceroy appoints them
for the royal patronage. There are three hospitals, one of them in
the city; they were founded by the Marqués de Cafiete, with the
title of Royal Hospitals ; they care for the Indians who come to work
in the mines and fall sick, and for other poor invalids. Their income
is derived from the 800 assay pesos assigned them in the Treasury
of Los Granos, plus 450 8-real pesos in annuities levied in silver and
deposited in this Treasury against Indians who have run away or are
missing; since they had long failed to appear, Viceroy Don Luis
de Velasco ordained that their masters should pay an annual sum
for them and that the income should be credited to these hospitals.

They collect in alms for these hospitals every year about 400 pesos.
Each hospital has its infirmary. The city hospital has 24 beds, and
those out on the ranges, 12 each regularly, with additional ones if
needed, as ordered by the administrator, viz, the City Council, which
appoints the Superintendent. The income is distributed under its
direction for the care and comfort of the patients and whatever else
is necessary ; this income has increased and keeps increasing.

534 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1454, The allocation (repartimiento) of the Indians who come to
this city and its silver mines for service periods, is as follows:

From the Province of Los Aymaraes, 456 Indians... 456
: i “ “Los Andamarcas, 147 Di So eee
- s et eee eOSH SOLAS: 14 hye ts 14
s “4 Cu - ParinasCochat 254 ty eee eed
s “© Los Pomatambos, 185 Sete TOS
* | “* Condesuyo del Cuzco, 104 ey 104
# “ “Los Condesuyos de Arequipa, 380 x 380
“s a - “Los Chocorvos, 20 3 20

1,560

Table showing the system followed in paying the Indians their
daily wage, by days, and also by days, the amount allocated to the
Treasury of Los Granos as its share of the salaries paid in there.

To To
Days Reals Pesos Treasury Days’ Reals Pesos Treasury

21 57-3qS. 7pS-I-Iq. 5rs—Iq. 31 85-Iq. I0ps.5rs.1q. 7-345.
2 60-2qs. 7ps—4-2qs. 5 -24q5. 42 II5-2qs. 14 ps.3-7 qs. 10-2 qs.
23 63-1 q. 7 ps.-7-I q.

5 -34q5. 53 145-3. 4s. 18 ps.—I-3 qs. 13-I q.
24 66- 8 ps.-2 6 - 64 176- 22 ps.— 16—-
25 683qs. S8ps—4-3qs. 6 -Iq. 75 206-Iq. 25 ps.—6-I q. 18-3 qs.
26 7I-2qs. S8ps-7-2qs. 6 -2qs. 86 236-2qs. 29ps.—4-2qs. 2I-24q5.
27 74-1 q. QOps.2-Iq. 6 -34q5. 97 266-3 qS. 33 pS.—2-3qS. 24-1 q.
28 77- 9 ps.-5- Ti 100 275- 34 PS.-3- 25-
29 79-3498. 9ps-7-3q48. 7 -Iq. 108 207- 37 Ps 27—

7

30 83-2qs. I0ps.—2—2 Qs. —2qs. 1290 354-3qS. 44psS.2-3qs. 32-1 q.

CHAPTER LXV [66] (67)

Of the Province and Corregimiento of Los Chocorvos, District of
the City of Castrovirreina.

1455. In this Province of Los Chocorvos there are eight Indian
villages: Santiago, San Juan de Huaitara, Sangayayco, Santiago de
Quirahuara, San Francisco de Querco, La Concepcion de Laramarca,
San Juan de Cordoba, San Francisco de Ocobamba. These were all
converted and established in the days of Don Francisco de Toledo;
they speak the Lengua General del Inca (Quichua). In this Province
of Los Chocorvos, which means brave people, there was in the year
1610 an encomendero on second life tenure; he had a goat and sheep
ranch with to Indians under provision of the Viceroys, each with
wages of 24 pesos a year. It was the Conde de Villar who made

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—-VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 535

the original grant of this encomienda. There were in this province
535 tribute-paying Indians. Each pays a tribute of five 8-real pesos
in ropa de abasca (Basque cloth?), hogs, sheep, corn, potatoes, and

cotton cloth; the name of the encomendero is Don Juan Fernandez
de Cordoba.

One piece of ropa de abasca is worth 2 assay pesos and 4 tomines.
Each hog, I assay peso and 4 tomines.

Sheep, the same.

The fanega of corn, I assay peso and I tomin.

The fanega of potatoes, 4 assay peso.

One piece of cotton cloth, 1 assay peso and 6 tomines.

1456. All this converted into terms of cash means that each Indian
pays five 8-real pesos. There are 2 clans (parcialidades) in this
province, governed by 2 principal caciques and their subordinates;
one clan contains 445 tributary Indians, and the other 290. There
are also foremen (mandones) who collect the taxes. There were 645
married persons; 90 unmarried; old men and women exempt, 666;
widows, and unmarried women 50 years old or more, 180; children
and boys up to 14, 939. It is 9 leagues from these villages to the
Corregidor’s residence. This province contains community property
of 30,000 sheep, and the community receives a tax laid in Ica on
the Villacuri sinks, i.e., vineyards, with an annual income from it
of 172 g-real pesos; the whole community income will amount to
from 4,000 to 5,000 8-real pesos.

1457. In this province there are two community treasuries, each
clan having its own, with three keys to each; one is kept by the
Corregidor or his representative, one by the principal cacique, and
the other by an Indian Alcalde. The community money is deposited
here, and this money is paid out in the salaries of the curates and
the Corregidor, by whose hand it is distributed, and in fines for
Indians who have run away or have died, and in the salaries of the
caciques and in payment of the tribute and the encomenderos, and
in payments to the miches, who are the shepherds of the community
flocks.

1458. The jurisdiction of the caciques over the Indians consists in
making them present themselves for their mita, and pay their tribute.
The Indians occupy themselves in cultivating their crops, breeding
cattle, and weaving cloth for their garments. The village of pocee
is the capital of the Province of Los Chocorvos; it lies in 14° 7 Se
and is 14 leagues from Castrovirreina. This province is all rough
country but without forests, except that there are a few trees in the

536 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

ravines—alders, willows, and lugmos(?). The climate is equable the
whole year, neither cold nor hot. Medicinal herbs grow there, like
chilca and guamanguaca, which are used as remedies for impotence
(frialdad; chills and fever?). The second village is Huaitara; a
large river runs through it, which rises 12 leagues away and is fed
by the ranges where the mines are, and by the snows. Its high-water
period is from December to March, but it is always a considerable
stream. Another river flows past the village of Santiago; this rises
in a spring 8 leagues away ; the Indians irrigate their chacras or fields
from these streams. There are pejerreyes in these rivers, and excel-
lent crayfish. They grow all sorts of Spanish vegetables, and native
fruit like paltas (aguacates) and pacaes; Spanish figs, oranges, and
other excellent fruit.

On their cattle, sheep, and hog ranches there was an annual increase
of 18,000 head; there are mule and horse ranches also, and they have
poultry, quail, vicufias, guanacos, deer, and tarugas (furciferine
deer) ; this is another species of deer, shorter and stockier, and it
has the best bezoar stones.

There are two curacies for the eight villages in this province,
occupied by two clerics nominated by the Bishop of Guamanga and
confirmed by the Viceroy for the royal patronage; one has three
villages, the other, five. One usually lives in the village of Huaitara,
the other in San Juan de Cordoba. Each receives 500 assay pesos
salary (de sinodo), and contributions (el pié de altar) bring in 200
assay pesos for each.

CHAPTER LXVI [67] (68)

Of the Province of Los Huachos, the Villages in Its District, and
Its Special Features.

1459. In this Province of Los Huachos, there are eight Indian
villages: San Cristobal de Nucayca, which is the capital; La Con-
cepcion de Arma, La Asuncion de Tantara, San Francisco de Cocas,
San Pedro de Guacara, San Juan de Huangasca, Santiago de Chavin,
and San Pedro de Cacara. These were located in their settlements
in the days of Don Francisco de Toledo; they speak the Lengua
General del Inca (Quichua). In the year 1610 they formed an
encomienda in first life tenure; the incumbent was Don Juan de
Barrios. There were 572 tribute-paying Indians in this province;
each paid as tribute 2 pesos and I tomin, and 9g assay granos, at
123 reals each, in silver, plus 1 peso in cloth, llamas, corn, poultry,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 537

and potatoes; the values of these contributions in kind were estab-
lished by the Viceroys in the following price scale:

One piece of cloth of abasca, 2 assay pesos and 4 tomines.
One llama, 2 assay pesos.

A fanega of corn, I assay peso and I tomin.

A fanega of potatoes, 4 assay peso.

Hens and chickens, 9 assay granos each.

This repartimiento and province contains 12 clans, which are
governed by their curacas and camachicos; these are all subordinate
to one principal cacique and his second in command. Of these tribu-
tary Indians, 395 were married and 177 unmarried; of boys and
young men up to 17, there were 786; and 1,651 women of all ages
and conditions, plus 170 exempt old people.

1460. It is 9 leagues from the village of San Cristobal to Castro-
virreina. This province receives an income of 1,000 pesos collected
as an impost (censo) on the city of Guamanga, and go from its
encomendero. The system of the communal treasury is similar to
that in the Province of Los Chocorvos; it is located in the village
of Tantara, the residence of the chief cacique; the excess of the
tribute is deposited in it, and from this fund are paid out the salaries
of the curates and of the caciques, construction expenses of the
churches and hospitals, and salary of the Corregidor; out of the
imposts (censos; fines?) are paid the tributes for the dead and those
who have run away, until there is a revision of the list.

The Indians’ manner of life and occupations are the same as in
the Province of Los Chocorvos. The country has a good climate ;
all of it is rough, with high ranges and deep ravines; the ranges
contain silver mines. The village of San Cristobal is at 11°53’ S.
A river runs near it which rises 8 leagues away up on the puna,
and empties into the sea by the village of Chincha. This river swells
at the same season as indicated in the preceding chapter. They
irrigate their plots from it, and get pejerreyes, bagres, and excellent
crayfish in it.

1461. There are two clerical curates for the eight villages in this
curacy, each with four villages under his charge; one resides in the
village of San Cristobal, the other in that of Guacara. They receive
319 assay pesos salary, and the contributions will bring them each
in 200 pesos. There are no hospitals in this province, and although
each Indian pays 1 tomin for hospitals, the money is deposited in the
communal treasury ; when they fall sick, the priest or the Corregidor,
together with the others who hold keys, take from the treasury

538 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

whatever is necessary for their care and comfort. This 1 tomin
amounts each year to 71 assay pesos and 4 tomines. This account
of these provinces must suffice ; we must avoid prolixity.

Cuapter LXVII [68] (69)

Of the Town of Huancavelica and Its Quicksilver Mines.

1462. Thirteen leagues ENE. of the city of Castrovirreina, on the
same puna, lie the town and the quicksilver mine site of Huancavelica ;
the city of Guamanga is 30 leagues distant, to the ESE.

1463. To reach Huancavelica from Lima by the Sierra, one travels
through the Jauja Valley, and then through a cold mountain country
to the tambo of Acos, which is 7 leagues from Jauja; there are many
buildings there from the time of the Incas. From this tambo there
is a climb of about a league over a bad road, up to the view of the
river which runs through the Province of Jauja; at this point the
road passes some extensive caves, and then goes downhill for some
2 leagues; when it crosses the river by the Angoyaco bridge, which
is built of stone and spans the river with one single arch, the tem-
perature is already delightfully springlike. There is a small Indian
settlement on the river bank. At this point one leaves the King’s
Highway, which continues to Guamanga, Cuzco and all the upland
country, and takes the right-hand road leading to Huancavelica.
It is a climb of over 2 leagues to the village of Huando, which belongs
to the Province of Los Huancas. After this come 5 leagues of cold
puna; then the road goes down over a hillside which brings a lovely
valley into view, in the midst of the puna; it is here that the town
of Huancavelica is situated.

1464. Near this valley in which the town is built, rise some high
ranges, in which the rich quicksilver mines are located; these are
thick layers of this ore, already exploited by the Indians in the days
of their heathendom in order to extract the minium or vermilion,
which the ancients revered as a sacred color; some Indians called it
llimpi, others ychma. The Indians exploited these ranges at the com-
mand of their Inca kings, without knowing or realizing that this
other metal existed there; they merely extracted the vermilion to
paint themselves with it, as in other ages the Romans also made use
of it for their triumphs and celebrations, as well as for painting
Jupiter’s face; and they held it in high esteem, as Pliny says, and
imported it for that purpose from Spain; and in Ethiopia the kings
and governors anointed their faces with it and their gods and idols.
The Indians so used it in their festivities and to make themselves

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 539

appear more dashing and gallant; and when they went to war, they
painted themselves so as to appear braver and fiercer in their war
paint and impress their enemies with their greater ferocity; and
it was for this alone that they exploited the ore, without appreciating
the wealth it contained; or if they did know about it, they made no
use of the metal, either because they did not know what it was good
for, or because they were afraid of its bad effects, which are usually
felt by those who have much to do with it.

1465. The Spaniards also never arrived at this realization for a
long time, not until the year 1567, when Licentiate Lope Garcia de
Castro had succeeded the Conde de Nieva after his death, as Gov-
ernor. A Portuguese named Enrrique Garcés, who was an expert
in such matters, saw this red ore, or vermilion, recognized it and
knowing that it was always associated with quicksilver, went up to
the mines with this idea, tested the ore and got quicksilver from
his assay. That was how quicksilver was discovered here ; immediately
there was a rush from many quarters to exploit it for export to
Mexico, where they used quicksilver in all their mining processes
(for up to that time the process was not known in Peru) and many
got rich from it; and at the report of such wealth, many flocked in
from all sides.

1466. And so when Don Francisco de Toledo entered on his term
as Governor, he ordered the town of Oropesa or Huancavelica to
be built at the foot of the range in a valley between two ridges, in
the year 1569. The rich deposits of this range have made it grow
and keep growing ; there are over 400 Spaniards living here as regular
residents (here comes a blank page) and though there are very rich
mines of this ore in that range, and many tunnels and caves made
by the Indians of old in taking out their Ilimpi, ychma, or vermilion—
I myself have seen many of these great tunnels or pits—the richest
of all, which they call La Descubridora, was discovered by a Huanca
Indian, a native of the village of Acoria belonging to the encomienda of
Don Amador de Cabrera, a resident of the city of Guamanga. Since
the village of Acoria is so close to the Huancavelica range, this
Indian, Nauincopa, also knew the ground well [living so near it and
having trodden it often since it was reputed to be so rich, among
others] he found this mine, and notified his master of it. Don Amador
de Cabrera filed on it and gave it the name of the Los Santos mine.
This is a layer of very tough black flint; they hack away at it with
picks and crowbars and get it out with very great effort [and it is
of such remarkable size that it measured over 42(?) varas across
and more than 80 long]. All the ore is very rich, and the vein turns

540 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

down, and the deeper it gets the more it broadens out, so that in
the cavity which has been hollowed out within the mine, where they
are working to extract the ore, there is room for from 3,000 to 4,000
Indians, [such is its size and capacity. |

1467. Amador de Cabrera had a controversy with the Fisc over
this mine, and won a writ for its exploitation; later, His Majesty
bought it for 250,000 ducats; but considering he had been cheated,
Cabrera again brought suit over it; in fact, all those who know and
can estimate its wealth, say that it is worth over a million; it is an
astonishing thing that there can be a mine worth such an amount.
Much of my account is from my own observations, which I made
with special particularity when I was at those mines; and part I have
taken from Very Rev. Father Joseph de Acosta, who wrote a learned
and minute account. At the rumor and report of this wealth of
quicksilver, many Indians and Spaniards rushed in from all sides
to take part in exploiting them; among them was a certain Pedro
Fernandez de Velasco, who, up in New Spain, had used quicksilver
on their ore; he offered to treat the Potosi ore with quicksilver, and
made the test when Don Francisco de Toledo was governing Peru,
in the year 1571; he was successful and it was the salvation of the
mines, because with this process they got [infinitely] much more
silver than by smelting, and gained not only in the valuable metals
but also in the excavation (desmontes), for the quicksilver gathers
up all the silver, even if the ore is very low grade, and that is not
the case with smelting. Accordingly, from the time that the Potosi
mines were discovered in the year 1545—they were filed on under
the date of April 21 of that year—the ore was treated with fire for
a period of 26 years up to 1571, without any knowledge or realization
of the quicksilver process before that year. Taking one year with
another, they extract over 10,000 quintals of quicksilver; much is
filched and sold underhand (debajo de la cuerda), as they say; they
are worth to His Majesty each year more than 400,000 assay pesos,
without reckoning in the profit from the quicksilver at Potosi, which
is another great source of wealth. This must suffice, and we will
describe some of the properties of quicksilver.

CuapTer LXVIII [69] (70)

Treating of the Preceding Theme, and the Properties of Quick-
silver.

1468. This metal has no form and consistency like the others but
is liquid; but even so, it is heavier than any of the rest except gold;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 541

for all the others, even a piece of iron or steel, float upon it without
sinking, as I have myself witnessed, like a straw on water; gold
alone sinks in it. Its best and most characteristic peculiarity is its
affinity for gold wherever it scents it; it assimilates it from among
other metals, seizes it and unites with it, so that fire alone with its
powerful force succeeds in breaking up the union and amity, and
it leaves the gold transformed into vapor and smoke, as if regretting
that the fire has forcibly severed it from its beloved friend the gold,
for whom it so yearns. So those who reduce the ore with quicksilver
and are acquainted with its characteristics, in order to escape and
save themselves from the fatal results of its use, and avoid quick-
silver poisoning, use gold as an antidote; they choose it as godfather
so that they may take no harm. So when they have to deal with
quicksilver and fire, they usually take a gold piece, say a castellano,
and pulverize and swallow it; and as whatever mercury enters the
system as vapor by the mouth, nose, ears, and eyes, settles in the
stomach, feeling gold near, it leaves all else for the shelter and
embrace of its friend, gold; and thus the individual escapes any
harm it might cause him, and he evacuates it later, combined with
the gold, by the ordinary channel; and then the fire again dissolves
the union.

1469. Next after gold it yearns for silver and embraces it, though
not with the haste it shows for gold; but it separates it from the
other metals with which it has combined, and nothing but fire will
force them apart, as has been described. Quicksilver shows no affinity
for other metals; in fact, it rather drives them off, corroding and
perforating them, for it yearns only for the good and highly esteemed
and embraces it, and scorns and drives away all that is not. For this
reason they ordinarily put it either in clay vessels or in dressed
sheepskins or other animals’ skins, for it bores through vessels of
copper, bronze or other metal, and ruins them. Hence Pliny called
it a poison for everything, for it eats into them and spoils them;
but in itself it is so scatheless that besides its faculty of moving
about, which was responsible for its ancient name of argentum vivum
(quicksilver), even though it be divided up into a thousand tiny
drops, they combine again and form one whole just as if they had
not been separated ; and while it segregates gold or silver from copper,
it serves also to unite them, for they use it for the process of gilding.
And besides all these characteristics mentioned, the thing which most
surprises about it is that while it is one of the heaviest substances
in the world, in a twinkling it becomes one of the lightest, i.e., vapor,
in which form it rises when decomposed; but though it is now so

542 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

light, at the loss of heat it cools off again and immediately changes
into the heaviest substance in existence, its liquid form, for it coagu-
lates and drops down again, becoming quicksilver ; but if they apply
fire to it, it turns again into vapor at once—an extraordinary and
unique transmutation of such a light substance into such a heavy one.

CuHaptTer LXIX [66] (71)

Continuing the Preceding Theme, of the Characteristics of Quick-
silver.

1470. The ancients did not appreciate all these characteristics of
quicksilver, for Pliny, in book 33, chapter 6, says that mercury yearns
only for gold, and embraces it alone ; but experience has demonstrated
in our own day that the widest use for quicksilver and its greatest
service is with silver; for such great wealth has been derived from
silver at Potosi and the other mines in Peru that in the 59 years
during which silver has been extracted by the quicksilver process,
from the year of 1571 up to the present year of [1628] 1630, from
Potosi alone the quicksilver process has yielded more than 600
millions in silver, not counting what has been treated in other Peruvian
mines, and from a much earlier period from all the mines in New
Spain; so that I infer that the greatest use of quicksilver has been
with silver.

And so at the rumor of the rich deposits of mercury in the days
of Don Francisco de Toledo, in the years 1570 and 1571, they started
the construction of the town of Huancavelica de Oropesa in a pleasant
valley at the foot of the range. It will contain 400 Spanish residents,
as well as many temporary shops of dealers in merchandise and
groceries, heads of trading houses, and transients, for the town has
a lively commerce. It has a parish church with vicar and curate, a
Dominican convent, and a Royal Hospital under the Brethren of
San Juan de Dios for the care of the sick, especially Indians on the
range; it has a chaplain with a salary of 800 assay pesos contributed
by His Majesty; he is curate of the parish of San Sebastian de
Indios, for the Indians who have come to work in the mines and
who have settled down there. There is another parish on the other
side of the town, known as Santa Ana, and administered by Domini-
can friars.

1471, Every 2 months His Majesty sends by the regular courier
from Lima 60,000 pesos to pay for the mita of the Indians, for the
crews are changed every 2 months, so that merely for the Indian
mita payment [in my understanding of it] 360,000 pesos are sent

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 543

from Lima every year, not to speak of much besides, which all crosses
at his risk that cold and desolate mountain country which is the puna
and has nothing on it but llama ranches.

Up on the range there are 3,000 or 4,000 Indians working in the
mine; it is colder up there than in the town, since it is higher. The
mine where the mercury is located, is a large layer which they keep
following downward. When I was in that town (which was in the
year 1616) I went up on the range and down into the mine, which
at that time was considerably more than [100] 130 stades deep. The
ore was very rich black flint, and the excavation so extensive that
it held more than 3,000 Indians working away hard with picks and
hammers, breaking up that flint ore; and when they have filled their
little sacks, the poor fellows, loaded down with ore, climb up those
ladders or rigging, some like masts and others like cables, and so
trying and distressing that a man empty-handed can hardly get up
them. That is the way they work in this mine, with many lights and
the loud noise of the pounding and great confusion. Nor is that
the greatest evil and difficulty; that is due to thievish and undisci-
plined superintendents. [The fact is that] As that great vein of
ore keeps going down deeper and they follow its rich trail, in order
to make sure that no section of that ore shall drop on top of them,
they keep leaving supports or pillars of the ore itself, even if of the
richest quality, and they necessarily help to sustain and insure each
section with less risk. This being so, there are men so heartless
that for the sake of stealing a little rich ore, they go down out of
hours and deprive the innocent Indians of this protection by hollowing
into these pillars to steal the rich ore in them, and then a great section
is apt to fall in and kill all the Indians, and sometimes the unscrupu-
lous and grasping superintendents themselves, as happened when
I was in that locality; and much of this is kept quiet so that it shall
not come to the notice of the manager and cause the punishment of
the accomplices. There is much that might be said and animadverted
on this theme, but the little I have noted [to tell] will indicate how
much more needs to be corrected.

1472. A small river runs from N. to S. along the E. side of the
town, and on the opposite side [of the river] there is a mysterious
fount or spring of very beneficial hot water; I bathed in it and
recovered my health. All the water from this spring turns into stone
when it cools off, and if they want to make molds so as to turn out
the stone as they desire, they can do it easily. The whole town is
built and constructed of this stone. If any animal drinks this water,
he dies. The town has this rich range of mercury ore on its WSW.,

544 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

and is built at its foot. To the E., and opposite the mercury range,
there is another high range with very rich silver mines, with another
[range] to the E. with rich tin mines, and to the W., others with
copper ; these are all in an area of half a league.

Cuapter LXX [67] (7 )

Of the Manner of Handling and Treating the Mercury Ore.

1478. This is how they extract the mercury. On the other side
of the town there are structures where they grind up the mercury
ore and then put it in jars with molds like sugar loaves on top of
them, with many little holes, and others on top of them, flaring and
plastered with mud, and a channel for it to drip into and pass into
the jar or place where it is to fall. Then they roast the ore with a
straw fire from the plant growing on the puna, like esparto grass,
which they call ichu; that is the best sort of fire for the treatment
of this ore. Under the onset of this fire it melts and the mercury
goes up in vapor or exhalation until, passing through the holes in
the first mold, it hits the body of the second, and there it coagulates,
rests, and comes to stop where they have provided lodging for it;
[but] if it does not strike any solid body while it is hot, it rises as
vapor until it cools and coagulates and starts falling downward again.
Those who carry out the reduction of this ore have to be very careful
and test cautiously; they must wait till the jars are cold before
uncovering them for otherwise they may easily get mercury poisoning
and if they do, they are of no further use; their teeth fall out, and
some die. After melting and extracting the mercury by fire, they
put it in dressed sheepskins to keep it in His Majesty’s storehouses,
and from there they usually transport it on Ilamaback to the port
of Chincha (which is 5 leagues N. of Pisco), where there is a vault
and a Factor appointed by the Royal Council, and he has charge of
it there; then they freight it on shipboard to the port of San Marcos
de Arica, from which it is carried by herds of llamas and mules to
Potosi. In the treatment of the silver they use up every year more
than 6,000 quintals, plus 2,000 more derived from the ore dust, 1.e.,
the silver and mercury which was lost and escaped from the first
washing of the ore, made in vats.

The way they handle this is as follows: every year they burn over
300,000 quintals of this ore dust in ovens, which are made in Tarapaya
and other places; out of it they get a large amount of very high-
grade silver together with the mercury referred to; and since when
I deal with the district of the Archdiocese of the Charcas, I shall

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 545

tell what I know about the mines of Potosi and their processes, this
statement must suffice with regard to quicksilver and the district
of Huancavelica. The Viceroy appoints a Governor here for the
administration of justice, to see that the complement of the mita of
Indians coming to work in the mines, is full, and to supervise the
smelting.

1474. From Huancavelica it is 30 leagues to Guamanga. One sets
out for the King’s Highway, which lies to the E., and passes between
sierras and slopes to the apartments and tambos of Picoy. From
there one proceeds to Parco; here are other apartments of ancient
Indian times, which today serve as tambo or tavern for travelers.
This is on the ridge of a high sierra. On the way there is a short
desert stretch which they call the Pucara, which means stronghold
or fortress. Here God in His Divine Providence created so many
cliffs of alabaster and other valuable stone in so many shapes that
from near at hand they resemble men in armor on horseback, and
other likenesses of saints and, in short, of as many effigies as can
be imagined, so many did Nature create here, with many other strange
and wonderful things. In fact, when I went through that locality in
the year 1616, I was astounded as I contemplated with attention the
first wonder of the world (in my judgment), which God created
in that spot, so that He might be glorified there by His creatures,
and I gave Him infinite thanks for it. In connection with it there
are many pyramids and battlemented towers formed out of those
same cliffs, so that from a distance it looks like a city with fine
buildings and towers; and it may rightfully be given that name and
title, for in that same spot, in these very cliffs, there are very large
caves and caverns, which people can live in; and in particular, near
the road and beside a small watercourse there is one of such remarkable
size that it might serve by itself as a fortress. It is more than 200
cubits high, and over 300 paces in circuit, and under it there are such
large caves and hollows that well over 100 men and 50 horses could
find place there; they regularly put up travelers there during the
rainy season, and it serves as a refuge against the rains; and the
muleteers also regularly stop off there with all the merchandise they
are carrying, for it not to get wet; all they are transporting, they
put there. This region is all cold country, about which there is much
that might be said.

1475. From here one goes on to Parco, and from there to the
Huanta Valley, in which lie the Sangaro apartments which serve at
present as tambo for travelers. From there it is 5 leagues to the
city of Guamanga. Off to one side, and a league away, is the Vifiaque

36

546 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Valley, where there are huge ruins of proud and very ancient build-
ings. The Indians have a tradition that they date from before the
Incas and they said that they were built by white people with beards,
and some even say that there was a slab there with many letters
carved on it. Of these buildings, worthy of everlasting memory,
there were many in those Kingdoms and in those of New Spain,
like those which stood in the province of Yucatan where the city of
Mérida was founded, and that was the reason they gave it that name;
and those of Gracias a Dids in the Province of Honduras. These
we are perfectly certain were not the work of Indians, although
in the days of the Incas in Peru and of the Motezumas in Mexico,
very sumptuous ones were erected, together with others existing in
the Kingdoms of Peru. These rouse much speculation as to when
they could have been built, and though in this respect it would appear
that they belong to many different ages and centuries, since those
who inhabited those regions had no written language, these works
were consigned to oblivion, and there is nothing but the ruins to
prove that those buildings were in existence. We are the more con-
fused and puzzled in that we do not know when or how they were
built, at what date or by what people; and that would all be trans-
mitted to us with truth and certainty by the nice and discreet artifice
of letters. And since this subject needs much discussion and thought
as to who the people could have been who built them, and where they
came from, I shall tell what I can deduce, with divine favor, on
another occasion, and shall now proceed with the description and
follow the route from Guamanga to Cuzco. Along this road lie the
hills and the plain of Chupa [on the Cuzco-Guamanga road] where in
the year 1542, on September 16, took place the bloody battle between
His Majesty’s forces, under the command of Vaca de Castro, and
those of Don Diego de Almagro, on which occasion His Majesty’s
army lost over 300 Spaniards and among them Gen. Pedro Alvarez
Holguin with many other gentlemen; and almost as many more died
in Don Pedro’s army, as is recounted by the historians.

1476. Eleven leagues this side of the city of Guamanga are the
famous buildings and apartments of Vilcas, which was the center
of the Incas’ empire, for they say that it is exactly as far from
Quito to Vilcas as it is from Vilcas to the farthest limit of the Incas’
conquests in Chile, which was up to the Rio de Maule. These buildings
in Vilcas are at present in a ruinous state, like the others in that
Kingdom. The Inca Yupangui ordered them built in connection with
the Temple of the Sun. Those who succeeded him kept adding to
their size and decoration with the riches which they offered. The

|

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 547

temple was all built of beautifully cut and laid stone slabs, set one
upon another without any mortar, so that it appeared to be one piece.
There were two great portals for entrance; there were two stone
stairways very well constructed, with 30 steps; and within there
were apartments for the priests and the servitors who officiated there
and who looked after the Mamaconas, who were very pious nuns.
The statue of the Sun which they had in this temple, was very rich in
gold, and much was buried, and there were many jewels of high
value in its adornment. We have information about the Indians
engaged in the service of this temple and castle, in which the Inca
had established a Governor of his own family and with such authority
that he was respected and obeyed like his own royal person; there
were 40,000 Indians apportioned for this in their mitas, and merely
for the gates of the temple and the palaces there were 40 doorkeepers.

Cuapter LXXI [68] (73)

Concluding the Brief Description of the Diocese of Guamanga.

1477. Where these buildings stood there was a plaza on the top
of a mountain, which they regularly kept very clear. To the E. of
it stood a shrine (adoratorio, teocalli) of the Inca lords, very nicely
built of stone and surrounded by a low wall. From this shrine
another terrace proceeded, like a passageway and likewise enclosed
by a wall; and at the end of it there was a stone slab, very well cut,
11 feet long and 7 wide, which was the spot where the Incas sat
when they came there to pray; they say that it was covered and
adorned with many gold jewels and precious stones of great value.
Here they kept buried great treasures in gold and silver and other
valuables, as was their custom. The Spaniards found a great deal
and carried it off, but the greater part is still buried there underground.

Back of this shrine stood the castles or royal palaces of Tupac
Inca Yupangui and other [very large] buildings and a settlement
containing over 1,000 houses which served as warehouses or maga-
zines in which to keep supplies of provisions, weapons and munitions
of war, and for storage of the clothing and other tribute which were
offered and brought in by the adjoining provinces, subject like colonies
to these palaces, for it was like a capital of the Kingdom. On the
other side, along a low ridge, there was another large settlement for
the same purpose. In the center there was a large plaza and in the
middle of it a seat where the Inca or Governor took his place to
witness the festivals, dances, and other celebrations. It certainly
rouses one’s compassion and regret to see such elaborate magnificence

548 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in ruins, and to think that the unfortunates who ordered it built for
their aggrandizement and their good polity, and those who, in obedi-
ence to their superiors, constructed them, never attained the knowledge
of our Holy Faith and are therefore in Hell. [God Our Lord in
His Divine Mercy grant us grace to serve Him and escape it. ]

1478. Seven leagues farther, on the Cuzco road, is the village of
Uramarca ; at the end of it one crosses the large Rio de Vilcas by
a rope bridge with very thick cables made of withes which they call
bejucos (rattans), like willow withes; these are anchored and fixed
very tight to some walls on the one side of the river, and to others
made for the purpose on the farther side, and stretched taut ; every-
body crosses by it. The river at this point will be as broad as the
Genil at Ecija, i.e., over 150 paces. To the W. lies the Province of
Los Soras, and to the E., the Andes and the Provinces of Viticos,
where Mango Inca Yupangui ensconced himself and from which
his followers sallied forth to raid the Spaniards. That was why they
founded and settled the city of Guamanga, which is the limit of the
district of the Diocese of Guamanga; here it borders on the Province
of Andahuailas, which belongs to the Diocese of Cuzco.

CuHaptTer LXXII [69] (74)

Of the District of Andahuailas, and of Other Provinces in the
Diocese of Cuzco.

1479, Beyond Uramarca, on the King’s Highway to Cuzco and
in its district, is the Province of Andahuailas, which the Indians in
ancient times called Andabaylas. The natives of this province and
its tribe had been very brave and warlike with all the neighboring
and adjoining provinces of other tribes; they called themselves
Chancas, and had as tradition an amusing extravaganza about their
ancestors, who, they said, were born and had their source in the Lake
of Chocloccocha which lies close to some of the mines where they
founded the city of Castrovirreina when Don Garcia de Mendoza
was Viceroy; they gave it that name for his wife, Dofia Teresa de
Castro. Leaving aside the fiction of their origin in the lake, it is a
fact that these Chancas were very valiant warriors in their day;
they went and conquered many tribes, and sought out new territories
to settle and colonize for the perpetuation of their name; and when
they reached the extensive province of Andahuailas, which was
thickly settled with members of the Quichua tribe, they conquered
it; and since it had a good climate and soil and fertile fields for
their crops and animals, they colonized it and made their home there;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 549

but since they were near the imperial city of Cuzco, the headquarters
and court of the Inca kings, lords at that time of that empire, they
had great fights and battles with them; and they went with a large
army to surround and capture Cuzco by force of arms. Their pre-
sumption so startled the Inca Yaguarhuacac that with all his Incas
and fellow citizens, he abandoned the city, since they felt they were
no longer secure there; and if the Chancas had speeded up their
campaign, they could have captured it and become the masters of
that empire. But it seems that they had about the same experience
as the famous Hannibal the Carthaginian; he proceeded victorious
and triumphal through Italy and blockaded Rome, and if his good
fortune had held, he would have triumphed over Rome and all the
Roman Empire. But fate was adverse; he raised the siege and the
Senate followed him up; Scipio went over into Africa, blockaded
Carthage and did not raise the siege until he had laid waste the city
with fire and sword and beheaded all its citizens. The same thing
happened to the valiant Chancas ; not having followed up their victory
with speed, they were later beaten by the Inca Viracocha; but they
were treated with greater humanity by the Incas than the African
Carthaginians were by the Romans, for the latter were deprived of
their wretched lives, their city, and their republic with great cruelty
by the Romans; the Chancas were merely conquered and made their
vassals by the Incas, who visited them in their provinces, honored
them and restored them to their territories, thus acting far better
than the Romans. Hannibal, the famous Carthaginian general, after
his misfortunes, rather than see himself ordered about and triumphed
over by the Romans, went off to foreign realms.

1480. But Ancoallo, the famous general of the Chancas, after the
defeat of his tribe, although restored to his territories and honored
by the Incas, rather than be ordered about by them and by their
governors, expatriated himself and abandoned his country, taking
some of his men with him; he won great victories over the Tarmas,
Chinchas, and other tribes, and went up into those wild mountains
where he continued to bring under his rule all the tribes he came
upon, fleeing from the authority of the Incas, until in the interior
of that extensive region he found fertile, rich, and suitable country,
which he colonized. Many of the Indians say that this was on the
banks of a large lake, on which and round about it there are large
settlements, very extensive, of which Casas Blancas (White Houses)
is the court city and capital; these have a large population. The
country is very rich, with many traders and much commerce, and
many silversmiths among them. There is a tradition that this tribe

550 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

started in by the Province of Chinchaycocha and went on down
through Paucartambo and then proceeded over those rough moun-
tains and deep rivers, and that their descendants have it all under
their sway today. Besides the story of their origin in a lake, they
say that their father was a savage lion, and they hold and worship
the lion as a god, and they have him on their insignia, and in their
solemn feasts they are accustomed to dress themselves in lions’ skins
to show their bravery, as one can remark any day in their festivals.
Leaving them in their territories, I would say that the Province
of Andahuailas comes 40 leagues before Cuzco; it is extensive, has
many villages, bright skies, and a marvelous climate. The land is
very fertile and produces wheat, corn, and other cereals in quantities,
with abundance of native and Spanish fruit; it has rich pasturage,
with large ranches of llamas, cattle, sheep, and hogs, and is prolific
in everything. It was a thickly settled province, but the civil wars
among the Spaniards reduced its population greatly.

1481. They were faithful servants of His Majesty on many occa-
sions, notably when Licentiate Pedro de la Gasca led all His Majesty’s
forces against Gonzalo Pizarro; they toiled and suffered much at
that time. The province is extensive ; some of its villages are Chuqui-
bamba, Utunsulla [4 line illegible] and others. There is a Corregidor
here, appointed by the Viceroy to provide satisfactory administration
and for the dispensing of justice. Chalcumarca and Suramarca were
Andahuailas fortresses of Ancoallo’s the famous general of those
provinces [Here several lines deleted, duplicating description of
Parinacocha in {| 1486].

1482. From Andahuailas to the Rio and valley of Amancay, or
Abancay as the Spaniards call it, it is a g leagues’ journey to Cuzco.
To the E. are the Provinces of Curapampa, Cochacassa, Quinualla,
Tacmar, and others near the Cuzco King’s Highway; farther inland
is the great Cordillera and the Andes, where there are very rough
mountains and deep rivers; among them is the Province of Vilca-
bamba where Prince Mango Inca took refuge. The country is very
uneven, hot, with very rugged mountains and forests. This province
contains the very rich Vilcabamba silver mines; a town of Spaniards
was established there and named San Francisco de la Victoria. It is
25 leagues ENE. of Cuzco, and the residence of a Corregidor
appointed by the Viceroy for its satisfactory administration and the
dispensing of justice. It abounds in corn and all else necessary for
human life.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 55!

Cuarter xxl | acs)

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Cuzco.

1483. On this same parallel to the W., between Amancay and the
Province of Andahuailas, are the Provinces of [Los Cotabambas,
Cotaneras, and others of the Quichua race; they are rich in llamas
and fields of corn, potatoes, and other products and root crops, and
have large settlements, with a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy
for the administration of justice. Near this province is that of
Guamampalla; to go from there W. to the plains one must cross
30 leagues of cold desert puna, uninhabitable, with nothing but
vicufias and guanacos; this desert is called that of Huallaripa, where
there is a very rich range of silver and gold ore. Returning to the
Cuzco King’s Highway, one travels 9 leagues from Andahuailas to
the Rio and valley of Abancay, where there is a bridge like the
others, for the river is deep. Along its banks is the Amancay Valley,
which means White Lily Valley, from the numbers of them there,
[quite] like our Spanish ones, but without their fragrance. This
valley is hemmed in by sierras, and though a little one, is fertile and
prolific, with much native and Spanish fruit, and corn, wheat, and
other cereals. On this river in the year 1537, Commander Don Diego
de Almagro captured Capt. Alonso de Alvarado, from whom are
descended the Condes de Villamor; he was going to Cuzco to be
General of the army of Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro, as is related
by the historians who have recounted those civil wars.

1484, Eight leagues beyond Amancay is the large Rio de Apurimac,
which passes through depressions in the land, and in these bottoms
there are little valleys with Spanish and native fruit. These dales
were colonized by the Inca Yupangui; he had Indians come up from
the Nasca valleys for them, since the river runs in deep cuts where
it is hot, and the sierra Indians could not live and farm in such hot
country, for it was at once fatal to them. That was the reason the
Inca had them brought up from the plains and valleys of the Nasca
region, which have the same climate. These transplanted Indians
are called Mitimaes.

1485. Between the Rio de Amancay and the Rio de Apurimac,
to the E., is the Province of Yanaguara; its first village is Piti.
It is over 20 leagues long and 15 wide; there are more than 30
villages in its district. W. of this province lies that of the Aymaraes,
with 15 leagues in between of cold desolate puna, uninhabitable and
with nothing on it but a few cabins which they call miches; the
Indian shepherds live in them, taking care of their flocks of

552 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

llamas ; at present there are also large flocks of Spanish merino sheep
with very fine wool; there are guanacos, vicufias, a few ostriches,
and vizcachas, which are like rabbits in form and color, except that
they have large tails; they move about among the rocks with much
grace and agility. At the end of the desert, which is where the
extensive Province of Los Aymaraes begins, there is a high ridge
called Musanca, which at times has served as a fortress for the
Indians.

1486. The large Province of Los Aymaraes, whose capital is the
village of Guaquirca, is very broken country with high mountain
ranges. Most of the villages are built on the slopes of the sierras,
and when it is a day’s journey from one to another, just with the
descent and the climb, one can nevertheless look and hear from one
village to the other. The province is thickly populated and is rich
in mines of silver, gold, lead, and other metals; in the ravines there
are large valleys, where they raise much wheat, corn, potatoes, and
all the Spanish and native varieties of fruit and cereals; they have
large ranches of all sorts of cattle and livestock. The province is
more than 30 leagues long and over 15 broad; it has a Corregidor
appointed by the Viceroy for its satisfactory administration and the
dispensing of justice. On the W. it is bounded by the Chaparra
Valley and the plains of the Diocese of Arequipa; on the S. by
Los Collaguas and Condesuyos of that same Diocese; on the ESE.
by the Province of Omasayos and others; on the N. by the extensive
Province of Los Pariguanacochas, which the Spaniards call Parina-
cochas. To the N. of the Province of the Aymaraes, one crosses the
Coporuna desert, where there are snow-clad ranges and at their peak
a beautiful snow pyramid, whose unique beauty made it an object
of worship to the heathen Indians. Then comes the extensive
Province of Los Parinacochas, which means province with a lake of
flamingos. This is very large, fertile, and prolific; they raise corn,
wheat, potatoes, and all the other native and Spanish cereals and
fruit, and have ranches of all kinds of livestock. The country is
very irregular, like that of Los Aymaraes, with rich silver and gold
ore bodies all over the province. Adjoining it are Allca, Taurisma,
Cotahuasi, Pumatambo, and others. The Viceroy appoints a Cor-
regidor for its satisfactory administration. On the N. it is bounded
by the Provinces of Los Soras and Lucanas of the Diocese of
Guamanga ; on the W. by the Chala valleys, the Atiquipa lomas, and
other valleys.

1487. To the ESE. of the Province of Los Aymaraes lies that
of Los Omasayos, whose chief village is Chirirqui. This province

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is thickly settled and rich in llama ranches, and at present they have
large ranches also of our Castilian sheep. Its boundaries run with
those of the Aymara province and many others. The Viceroy appoints
a Corregidor for its good government. On the E. it is bounded by
the desolate deserts of the sierra and the cold puna, where the only
living things are the vicufias, guanacos, and other wild animals;
beyond is the Province of Yanaguara. On the S. it is bounded by
Los Collaguas and Condesuyos.

1488. ESE. of this province, and between it and the Rio de
Apurimac is the Province of Los Chumbivilcas. This is extensive and
thickly populated, with quantities of all kinds of livestock. It is 20
leagues long and over Io broad. On the W. it is bounded by the
Provinces of Los Condesuyos and Collaguas. It is provided with
everything necessary for human life. In its district they raise
quantities of potatoes, quinua, corn, and much native and Spanish
fruit. It has a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy for the dispensing
of justice; he resides in the village of Velille.

1489. From the Rio de Apurimac one proceeds to the royal palaces
of Limatambo, crossing the Vilcaconga Sierra, where Don Diego de
Almagro had a battle with the Indians and scattered them before he
made his entry into Cuzco. Two leagues farther on is the Sacsahuana
Valley, which lies between high sierras; although small, it is prolific
in wheat, corn, and other cereals and Spanish and native fruit. It
was at the head of this valley that Gonzalo Pizarro and his few
followers were defeated, the majority of his force having passed
over to His Majesty’s army which was commanded by Licentiate
Pedro de la Gasca; this was on April 9 of the year 1548. It was
here also that Don Francisco Pizarro ordered that Atahualpa’s
General, Calicuchima, should be burned. This valley once contained
sumptuous buildings and many places for recreation, to which the
lords and many people from Cuzco came for their diversion. At
present they raise wheat and corn with other cereals and root crops ;
residents of Cuzco have cattle ranches here, and sugar plantations,
with a few mills. It is 5 leagues from the Sacsahuana Valley to the
imperial city; part of it is paved highway (calcada) and part of it
is up and down slight grades before reaching the city.

CHAPTER LXXIV ~( “)

Of the Imperial City of Cuzco, Court City and Capital of the
Kingdoms of Peru; of Its Splendors, and Its Founding.

1490. The imperial city of Cuzco, which was another Rome for
those southern regions in the days of its heathendom, was founded

554 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

(Marg.: in the year 1030, so far as I have been able to learn the date)
by the Inca Mango Capac, the first Inca King. Giving out that he
was child of the Sun and that he had come down from Heaven,
with the Queen his wife, they left the great lake of Collao, called
Titicaca, as is related by the Inca Garcilaso, book I of his “Com-
mentaries,’ folios 16 and 172. When he had reached the Cuzco
Valley, which is a plain surrounded by sierras, and had realized by
portents that it was the site on which he should build, he began to
teach the Law of Nature and publish it abroad to all those savage
tribes, showing them how to live orderly lives; and thus he brought
many to allegiance to him and to his civilized manner of living, and
the Queen his wife did her part to the same end. So they kept
adding many people to their settlement and their system, and he
built the part of the city which is known as Hanan Cuzco, which
means Upper Cuzco; and the Queen built Hurin Cuzco, which is
Lower Cuzco.

This city continued to be embellished by its kings with great
temples, fine walls, and substantial buildings; it had four water-
courses which irrigated its valley. It has a cool, temperate climate,
which neither tires nor tries one; its brilliant atmosphere is always
the same, trending rather toward cold and dry than toward hot and
moist ; for this reason meat keeps a long time without spoiling, and
the city is free from all kinds of annoying creatures.

1491. In its great days the city was divided into two parts by the
east-bound highway, which they call Andesuio; the northern part
they called Hanan Cuzco, 1.e., Upper Cuzco, and the southern, Hurin
Cuzco, i.e., Lower Cuzco. The first houses built were on the slopes
of the Sacsahuaman hill, which rose to the NE. of the city, and on
the crest of that hill. Later, the Incas built a famous fortress there,
which was [later] almost completely dismantled by the Spaniards
after their capture of the city, in order to build their houses in it.

1492. Besides being divided into 2 parts, as has been described—
Hanan Cuzco and Hurin Cuzco, separated by the Andes highway—
the city was subdivided into 12 wards. The first was named Coll-
campata, which means narrow path (andén) ; it was here that Inca
Mango Capac built his royal palace, which afterward belonged to
Paullu, son of Huayna Capac; there was a great shelter (galpon)
there which served as assembly place for rainy days; it was there
that the Indians celebrated and solemnized their festivals.

1493. The ward which came second, going E., was named Cantut-
pata, which means flower border (andén de flores), because of the

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flowers there, like our pinks in Spain; the plant on which they grow
is like the buckthorn such as they have in Andalusia.

The third ward, continuing within the enclosure toward the E.,
was Pumacurcu, which means lion beam, because it was in this ward
that they kept the lions tied to beams, which had been brought from
the Andes as presents for the Incas.

1494, Next to the foregoing is the Tococachi ward; that means
salt of the nostrils (? sal de ventana) ; it was here that they built the
Franciscan convent.

Immediately following this, as one turns S., is the fifth ward,
Munaycenga, which means love the nose (? ama la nariz).

1495. In the sixth place, as one continues turning somewhat
toward the S., is the Rimacpampa ward, which means talking plaza,
for it was here that public proclamation was made of everything that
belonged and pertained to good government, so that everyone should
know it. The road to Collao known as Collasuyo started at this plaza.

The seventh place was occupied by the S. ward, Pumachupa, which
means lion’s tail, because this ward tapers to an end between two
watercourses which finally unite, or else because it was the last ward
in the city and there were lions there. Here the city has grown west-
ward more than 1,000 paces and the village of Cayaucachi, which
was formerly at that distance from the city, is at present within it.

1496. Next to the last on the W. comes the Chaquilchaca ward,
the starting point of the Condesuyo highway ; near it were two under-
ground conduits of excellent water piped here from time immemorial ;
they called them Colquemachiguay, which means silver serpents,
from the water and the twisting of the pipes. On this side the city
reaches Chaquilchaca.

In the ninth place as one makes the circuit of the city from W.
to N., comes the Picchu ward, [which was] outside of the city.

Next to it in circuit is the ward named Quillapata, which is like-
wise outside the city; that means tenth place.

1497. The large Carmenga ward follows in the same circuit to the
N.; this is the starting point of what they call the Chinchaisuyu high-
way, to all the lowlands, Lima, Quito, and all the other provinces
lying to the N. Along the crest of the Carmenga ridge there were
numerous turrets arranged at intervals so as to keep track of the
sun’s movements and declination, a matter in which they were very
solicitous and precise.

1498. Beyond Carmenga as one turns E., comes the ward called
Huaca-Puncu, which means or signifies the gate of the sanctuary or
temple. A watercourse entered the city by this ward, running from

556 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

E. to W.; then it followed a long, wide street through the main plaza
of the city and after crossing the whole city in a southerly direction
trending somewhat to the W., it flowed out by the ward called
Pumachupa. They called the point where the stream entered, Huaca-
puncu, on account of the Temple of the Sun and the House of the
Virgins, and its point of issue, Lion’s Tail, to indicate that the city
was all one sanctuary, in which such sacred ordinances were promul-
gated and observed, not only in the city but in all the wide and
far-flung empire it kept under its sway and allegiance. This Carmenga
ward adjoined that of Collampata, with which we began the descrip-
tion of the 12 wards comprised in the circuit of the city; they were
segments of it, and in them all the caciques and potentates (curacas)
of all the provinces and tribes within the empire had their residences
and settlements for their visits to the court, and where they kept
their children for their training in the excellent education and state-
craft of the Inca kings and their courtiers.

1499. Four main highways left the city for the four parts of the
empire, following the four winds. The one which issued toward the
N. for Lima, Quito, and the other lowland provinces, was called
Chinchaisuyu. The one which left to the W. for the Provinces of
Aymaraes, Collaguas, Condesuyos, and Arequipa, they called
Cuntisuio, and the Spaniards Condesuyos. The one which started
S. toward Collao and all its provinces, going to La Paz, the Charcas,
Potosi, and all the upland provinces and the Kingdom of Chile, they
called Collasuio, and the Spaniards, the Collao Highway. The road
running E. they called Antisuio, and the Spaniards, the Andes
Highway.

1500. Corresponding to these four roads, the Inca kings had divided
their empire into four parts for its satisfactory administration, and
in conformity with this plan they kept locating the tribes which they
brought under subjection. It was the first king, Mango Capac, who
inaugurated this; and so for the tribes conquered to the S., they
established a ward or suburb connected with the city, and similarly
for the other quarters of the compass; according to the location of
the provinces of the conquered peoples, they established residences
for them for their visits in the court city, so that they might have
their own homes and section in which to live in harmony with their
ancient usages. This was carried out with such orderly system that
if one contemplated the 12 wards in which dwelt so many peoples,
foreign and widely separated by all the distance between Pasto and
Quito, and Chile, etc., over an expanse of more than 1,000 leagues,
one found that each nationality and province had its abode by itself

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 557

in the place and section prescribed for it by the governors and
ministers whom the Inca kings maintained in the city for that pur-
pose; and thus the city comprised the whole empire.

CuapTer LXXIII [72] (75)

Continuing the Description of the Imperial City of Cuzco.

1501. Each nationality followed the usages of its own country and
kept the customs [and ways] of its ancestors, and so they were
easily recognized by the insignia and tokens they wore on their heads
and by their use of their own costumes which the kings expressly
allowed them to keep so that they might be recognized and not be
confused. Furthermore they governed with great consideration and
were obeyed, respected, and worshiped by all their vassals; and for
that purpose, although each tribe and province kept its native mother
tongue, the Incas so managed that they all learned their language,
which is commonly called the Lengua General, because it is generally
spoken in the whole Kingdom of Peru; it is current among all those
tribes whom they conquered, for a distance of over 1,500 leagues,
being spoken from Popayan to Chile and Tucuman, and they con-
ducted their administration and government in it, and were beloved
and obeyed by their vassals, even in countries and regions so remote.

The main city abode of the Incas of the blood royal, and the homes
of their kings, stood inside of the 12 wards or suburbs of their
vassals. I shall describe this as concisely and clearly as I can, and
to that end I would say that the Sacsahuaman ridge rises to the N.
of the city and that a watercourse flows down from it from N. to S.,
through to the last ward, which is called Pumachupa (Marg.: Mango-
Capac). This stream separated the city from the wards or suburbs,
and the principal streets ran N. and S.

1502. Near this ridge the first king, Mango Capac, built his royal
palaces. A street ran down from there which today is called the
Calle de San Augustin; it ended at the Plaza Rimacpampa, where
they proclaimed and published abroad everything that concerned
good government, so that all should be cognizant of it. From there
four other streets ran crosswise, E. and W.; the Incas of the blood
royal lived on them, segregated according to their ayllos or ancestry ;
although they were all descended from the first king, Mango Capac,
they had nevertheless their distinctions in their filiation by this or
that king in their immediate ancestry; thus every male descendant
of the blood royal was called an Inca, and each woman a Palla.

1503. On this same Calle de S. Augustin, on the upper part of
it, is the nunnery of Santa Clara; farther downtown, where the

558 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Cathedral stands, were the houses and royal palaces of the Inca
Viracocha, eighth Inca king. There was also a beautiful shelter
(galpon) there for the celebrations of the Indians on rainy days;
this was where the Spaniards lodged and kept together when they
entered that city, in readiness for what might befall. N. of the
Cathedral were the palaces of Capac Yupangui, fifth Inca king;
these were called Hatun Cancha, which means big ward. S. of these
was another quarter which was called Pucamarca—red ward; this
belonged to King Tupac Inca Yupangui, father of Huayna Capac,
and was where he had his royal palaces. Adjoining them to the S.
was another very large ward where many nobles lived, descendants
of the Incas and lords over vassals. Near this ward in the same
southerly direction was the Plaza known as Intipampa, Sun Plaza,
in front of the Temple of the Sun; the Incas came here with the
gifts and offerings they made him, and it was here that the priests
of their heathendom accepted them; they presented them before the
image of the Sun. This ward where this temple stood was named
Coricancha, which means gold ward, because of the quantities of
gold in this temple, with its many other riches in silver, precious
stones, and many other valuable jewels. Next to this ward came that
of Pumachupa, which was already suburban and the southernmost in
the city.

1504. In order to continue with the clearness I postulated for my
description of this city of the Incas, it is necessary to go back to the
Huacapuncu ward, or the Gate of the Sanctuary, which was N. of
the city’s main plaza. On its S. it had the Ward of the Schools
established by the Inca King Roca. This was called Yacha Huaci
and was their university, where lived the learned Amautas and the
Harauec, who were poets who taught the sciences. Near here, and
next to the Plaza Principal, King Inca Roca built his royal palaces,
which were called Coracora; that meant house where much grass
was. Inca Roca was the sixth king of that empire, and his royal
palaces were to the E. of the plaza.

CHAPTER LXXIV [73] (76)

Continuing the Preceding Theme.

1505. W. of Coracora—the palace of Inca Roca—and with the
university and schools in between, Inca Pachacutec, son of Inca
Viracocha, built his royal palaces, known as Cassana, which means
wonderful for its grandeur; these were beautiful structures in
admirably hewn stone, and were the largest built by the Incas. Like

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 559

those built by Inca Roca, his great-grandfather, they had side doors
by which they could go over to the schools to learn from the pro-
fessors, and to teach also, for these two kings were great legislators,
in their laws and idolatry. Close by Cassana there was a handsome
shelter built at the command of Inca Pachacutec, utilized only for
the celebration of their festivals on rainy days and so capacious that
it held over 12,000 persons; this was where they built the Franciscan
convent. In front of the Cassana palaces was the main plaza, called
Huaicapata, which means festival plaza; this is the principal square
of the city.

1506. At the S. end of the plaza, across the stream and opposite
Cassana, stood the royal palaces of Huayna Capac, father of Huascar
Inca and of Atahualpa, who was captured at Cajamarca by Don
Francisco Pizarro and his companions. Those palaces were named
Amaru Cancha, which means ward of big snakes; at the present day
the Jesuit Convent stands on this site.

1507. In the ward running FE. and W. next to the plaza and named
Rimacpampa, where the nobles lived who were of the Inca blood
royal, stood the royal palaces of King Sinchi Roca, second king of
that empire, and immediately after them, those of his son Lloque
Yupangui, the third king, and in front of them to the S., those of
Mayta Capac, the fourth king and son of Lloque Yupangui.

1508. The royal palaces of Yaguar Huacac, seventh emperor of
that empire and father of Inca Viracocha, stood likewise in the
eastern quarter which runs across the city, near where the Cathedral
is today and near where they had the shelters in their main plaza
where they celebrated their chief festivals dedicated to the new moons
of certain months; in order not to fail to hold the festival in case
it rained, they had shelters for that purpose.

1509. When the Indians surrounded the Spaniards in this imperial
city and tried to burn them out, they burned it all up except for the
shelters of Cassana, Collcampata, and Amarucancha; as regards the
fourth shelter, where the Spaniards were located and which served
them as a fort, at the point where the Cathedral stands today, they
shot countless fire arrows at it and although they landed in the straw
with which the shelters were thatched and it caught fire in many
places, nevertheless through God’s mercy, in His divine secrets and
infinite mercy, they all went out, for His Divine Majesty had already
ordained that the Gospel should be preached to those blind heathen,
so that they might emerge from the blindness in which the Devil
had so long kept them deceived. Together with these shelters referred
to, they spared the Temple of the Sun and that of Chosen Virgins

560 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

from the holocaust. Near the Virgins’ Convent were the royal
palaces of Inca Yupangui, father of Tupac Inca.

1510. On the W. side of the watercourse there were no royal
palaces, but it was all occupied by nobles and other citizens. The
plaza named Cusipata was in this quarter; that means plaza for
festivals and celebrations; the Mercedarian convent is built to the
S. of it, and the Franciscan convent near the Carmenga ward, toward
the S. There was much other magnificence and many other splendid
buildings in the imperial city of Cuzco, but I omit mention of them,
for I do not possess sufficient information, and shall proceed to tell
something of the glories of the Temple of the Sun, which was the
Holy of Holies of those heathen; whoever desires to see and learn
more details should go to Inca Garcilaso, Father Joseph de Acosta,
and other historians who have described its grandeur.

CHapTtER LXXV (74)

Of the Temple of the Sun, Its Description and Magnificence.

1511. It was Inca Mango Capac, the first king of that empire, who
commenced the conquest of those savage tribes and their conversion
to his false religion, giving them a civilized way of living and laying
the foundations of that imperial city, queen and mistress of so many
far-flung nationalities. He boasted and prided himself greatly, claim-
ing to be child of the Sun, who had sent him to uplift them out of
the blindness [illegible] and the brutish manner of life which were
theirs, and to teach them a more civilized way of living, like human
beings, by giving them laws for their conduct and government.
Accordingly he built and consecrated a house for his father the Sun
in the southern quarter of the settlement which he had begun; and
the later kings, his sons and descendants, kept enriching and adorning
it with unbelievable treasures, like no other sanctuary the world has
ever known. The one among these rulers who most embellished
it with proud and sumptuous structures was the great Inca Yupangui,
father of Tupac Inca; besides erecting the edifice itself in hewn stone
accurately and admirably laid, he adorned it with gold plaques and
rosettes and with many precious stones of inestimable value. The
temple was very high; its framework was of very valuable woods
artistically carved, with occasional sheets of gold leaf which produced
an excellent harmonious effect. It was thatched with icho, as is usual
with the Indians in that Kingdom; this is the straw which grows
out on those cold heights which they call puna, like esparto grass.
At the top of the temple under the roof and running all around it

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 561

outside, there was a frieze (cenefa) of gold plate to buttress and
adorn the temple; it was a good vara wide and was carved into the
semblance of a crown.

1512. On the main facade of the temple, looking E., stood the
image or statue of the Sun, made out of a huge slab of gold; his
countenance was round with rays, just as he is seen in the sky. It was
so gigantic that it filled the entire facade from wall to wall. On either
side of this image of the Sun lay the bodies of former kings, arranged
in the order of their antiquity, and their sons, so well embalmed that
they looked alive; they wore their former insignia and were seated
on golden thrones resting on gold slabs. Their faces were all turned
toward the people below except for Huaynacapac alone; he was
in the center below the figure of the Sun and faced him, as was
proper for his most beloved child, and his back was turned to the
people. When the Spaniards entered that imperial city, they hid
them all together with uncountable treasures, and of them all, only
three kings’ bodies have been found, and two queens’.

1513. All the other walls of the temple were faced and covered
with gold plaques, from the roof to the ground. The main portal
of the temple was to the N., although the principal chapel was to
the E. The temple had other less important doorways; they were
all lined with sheets and slabs of gold. On the site of this temple
stands the church and convent of the Glorious Patriarch Santo
Domingo. That image and statue of the Sun fell by lot at the capture
of that imperial city by the Spaniards, to a valiant pioneer by the
name of Mancio Sierra de Leguisamo. They say he was a great
gambler and that he gambled it away in one night, which gave rise
to the saying: he gambles the sun away before it rises.

CuapterR LXXVI [7 ] (75)

Of the Cloister [Square] of the Moon and Other Planets, and the
Garden of the Sun.

1514. By the Temple of the Sun there was a cloister around the
upper part of which ran a gold frieze (cenefa) a vara wide, made
of a sheet of gold worked into the form of a crown. Round about
the interior of the cloister were arranged five large chambers; these
were square and divided up and covered over in the shape of
pyramids. The chamber nearest the Sun chapel was that of the
Moon, his sister and wife. This and its doors were all lined with
sheets of silver, like those in the Sun Temple. The Moon’s counte-
nance was like a woman’s, made of one great sheet of silver; this

37

562 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

covered the entire facade. They came in to pay obeisance to her
as to the Sun’s wife and the mother of the Incas, and they offered
prayers to her; they called her Mamaquilla. On either side of her
were the bodies of former queens arranged in the order of their
antiquity ; Mama Ocllo, mother of Huayna Capac, was in the center
in front of the Moon, with her face turned toward her, as was proper
for the mother of such a son.

1515. The second chamber or chapel, next to that of the Moon,
was dedicated to the planet Venus and the seven Pleiades and other
stars. They called Venus Chasca, which means with wide curly
locks; she was page for the Sun, because she always moves near
him; the Pleiades and other stars were handmaids and attendants
of the Moon, and for that reason they had their chapel and chamber
next their mistress, whom they escort at night. This chamber was
also completely lined with sheets of silver, and the ceiling covered
with silver stars, in imitation of the starry heavens.

1516. Next the chamber and chapel of the planet and stars, came
that of lightning, thunderbolt, and thunder, which are all included
in the one word Yllapa, which means all three ; they are differentiated
in meaning by the accompanying verb; when one says “Did you see
the yllapa?” lightning is meant; “Did you hear the yllapa?” thunder ;
and when one says “The yllapa fell and did such and such damage,”
the thunderbolt is meant. Accordingly they respected them as servants
of the Sun their father, and built a chapel for them to stay in.

1517. The fourth apartment or chapel they dedicated to the rain-
bow, which they called Cuychu, for they perceived and realized that
it proceeded from the Sun, and so they adopted it as their escutcheon,
chevron, and coat of arms, setting great store by it, since they were
children of the Sun. This whole chapel was lined with sheets of
gold, on which the rainbow was painted in a most natural manner,
with all its colors, and so large that it extended from one wall to
the other.

1518. The fifth apartment or chapel served as a sacristy, where
the High Priest had his headquarters, as well as the others who took
part in the temple ministrations and the service of the Sun. This
was likewise lined and decorated from top to bottom with slabs and
sheets of gold. The High Priest was called Villacumu, which the
Spaniards write Villaoma; this meant soothsayer or wizard. He
interpreted to the people his consultations with the Sun and all the
other nonsense and mystifications which seemed good to him, and
carried it all off; they were always of the Incas’ blood royal. All

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 563

their deceitful ways of sacrificing and hoodwinking the people may
be seen in Inca Garcilaso, in Father Acosta, and other historians.

1519. Besides the magnificence already described, and the majesty
and splendor of the temple, there were 12 doorways leading from it
and the chambers or chapels of the moon and stars, etc., to the cloister.
Ten of them were lined with sheets of gold; only the two of the
moon and stars were silver-lined, thus being different and distin-
guishable from the others. For its majesty and splendor the temple
had a garden with everything such a garden could have of the most
remarkable abundance in the world, but all the herbs, plants, and
flowers were manufactured with great accuracy out of gold and silver,
like those to be found in all the royal palaces of the Incas. The trees
were full of fruit, in gold counterfeit; there were animals large and
small, serpents, lizards, tigers, lions, guanacos, vicufias, and many
other animals and small creatures, as well as human figures policing
and cultivating the garden, so that it seemed like a forest with all
this diversity of animals; there were even ostriches there; and they
were all fabricated out of gold and silver. There was a very remark-
able field of corn with golden ears, blocks of wood, and other curiosi-
ties of the same nature, which demonstrated the majesty and
sovereignty of their god. There were many other temples patterned
after this magnificent one, over the whole empire and built to worship
and honor the Sun and to pay homage to their kings. These were
all decorated in the same fashion with great lavishness. I saw most
of them in ruins, when I was in that Kingdom; but I omit any
further description, to avoid prolixity.

Craprer cx VIL |. (76)

Of the Convent of the Virgins Dedicated to the Sun.

1520. In the majesty and grandeur which those kings enjoyed in
their heathen days, it seemed suitable to them that their father the
Sun, whose children they were proud to be, should have chosen
maidens consecrated to him alone as his wives. Accordingly in the
ward which they called Aclla Huaci, which means House of the
Chosen Virgins, they built it near the House of the Sun, between
the two streets which lead from the Plaza Mayor to the Dominican
convent, which is where the Sun Temple stood; these streets run
N. and S. The front of the Convent of the Chosen Virgins over-
looked the Plaza Mayor, and its rear extended to the street running
through from E. to W., so that the convent formed an island at this
locality just described.

564 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1521. Between this convent and the Sun Temple there was another
large ward which came out on the great Sun Plaza called Intipampa.
These nuns or chosen virgins had no definite number; the rule was
that they had to be daughters of the Inca kings or of their legal
relatives ; none could be illegitimate, for the Sun could not be offered
as a bride, a woman who was not a legitimate child. There was
likewise a dispensation for any woman who was extremely beautiful ;
they brought her in from any part of the empire to be the Sun’s
bride, and her excellent beauty made up for any lack of high birth.
They had to be virgins, and so they put them in the House of the
Chosen Virgins in early girlhood.

1522. There were Mamacuna, who were the elders and ancients
in that profession and cloistered existence. They were the ones who
governed the house as Superiors or Mothers for them all, for the
word mama in the Indian tongue means mother, and cuna is the
plural form of the word meaning all; and so they gave them this
name of Mamacuna, Mothers or Superiors of all; for from their
long residence they knew what was professed, what was to be observed,
and what instruction should be given the new arrivals. They were
cloistered in perpetuity, with no parlor or other place where anyone
might see them or speak to them, not even their own parents; for
they said that once that the virgins were handed over to their father
the Sun, no one else might see or speak to them, for that would be
showing slight respect to their god.

This convent had its main entrance or canonical gate, through
which the nuns-to-be entered, and the Queen or Coya; her daughters
and she came in to visit them on the part of the King and herself ;
for although the King might go in and visit them, he would not
do it, either for the good example or to prevent other Incas or lords
whose daughters were there, from asking for an exception that they
might visit them; they were very devoted to their false religion.

1523. In this Convent of the Chosen Virgins there was a narrow
passageway which ran through the entire building ; there were many
rooms and cubbyholes opening on it which were used for service,
cooking, and all else needful for attendance on the Chosen Virgins ;
women gatekeepers were at the doors of all these rooms; beyond
them were the living quarters of the Chosen Virgins, consorts of
the Sun. Their chief occupation, for which they were consecrated,
was to go at stated hours and pray, as chosen and beloved consorts
of the Sun, for the good health and long life of the Incas and the
preservation and increase of their territories, for which they were
solicitous; and they used the time which was available after these

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—yv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 565

cares, in spinning and weaving the raiment worn by the Inca. This
was all in fine vicuna and malton wool. The shirt came down to
his ankles, after their custom; this was called uncu in the classical
language, cusma in the corrupt. For a cape they wore a square,
two-breadth blanket ; some were plain and others richly embroidered
in colors; they called these yacolla. He wore also a large purse,
like a muleteer’s wallet, passing under the arm like a sword belt, in
which he carried his cuca leaves, or coca, as the Spaniards call it.
They also made the Ilautu, which was a sort of narrow rectangular
belt like a thick rope, and which he passed four or five times around
his head; it had a red tassel and constituted his crown, extending
from one temple to the other.

They likewise made the garments worn by the Coya, or Queen,
and her daughters, and everything which was offered to the Sun
as a sacrifice, and many other remarkable things woven from finest
cumbi, but it is not necessary to enumerate them.

1524. At the start of this passageway referred to, where the main
door stood for the service personnel of the house and the workrooms,
there were 20 porters to look after it and take and carry consign-
ments to the second door, where they were received by the serving
women, damozels, or ladies in waiting to the consorts of the Sun.
Among these were 500 daughters of nobles or Incas of the charter
given by the first Inca, Mango, to his first collaborators in the con-
quest. These damozels had another system of lodgment or segrega-
tion of their own; they likewise had their Mamacuna, who governed
them like a Mother Superior ; they were chosen from the oldest and
most experienced of those who had grown up in that same ministry,
This must suffice as an account of the House of the Chosen Virgins,
consorts of the Sun.

CHAPTER LXXVIII [81] (77)

Of the Cuzco Fortress and Its Incredibly Huge Stone Blocks.

1525. Among the marvelous works which were created by the Inca
kings to immortalize their names were not only those in their imperial
city, with so many royal palaces of admirable architecture and the
Temple of the Sun with its gardens, but other works, forts, and
temples in all the provinces of their far-flung empire, as e.g., those
in Quito, Latacunga, Tomebamba, Cochabamba on the Rio de Las
Balsas, in Huanuco, Tiahuanaco, the Pucara, Tampu, and many
others, whose ruins and remains I saw and contemplated when I
was in that Kingdom. But the greatest, proudest, and most sump-

5606 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

tuous, in which they displayed to the full their valor and puissance,
was the fortress (which they built for the safekeeping and the
majestic boast of their most opulent city, queen and mistress of so
many provinces and nations as were subject to her) on the Sacsahua-
man ridge to the N. of the city, at whose slopes the settlement com-
mences. At this point the ridge is very high, steep, and hard to
climb, for which reason the fortress is impregnable, and the city
is well protected and secure on this quarter.

1526. The huge size of its stone blocks is incredible, were it not
that the fact is attested by the testimony of so many who have seen
them and of the historians who have not exaggerated in their accounts
of them; and it is the more astounding when one considers that the
Indians had no iron or steel instruments with which to cut the stone,
nor contrivances or mechanisms to draw them along, and that in
addition most of the roads were rough and many of the great blocks
in the fortress hewn and transported from quarries 15 leagues from
the city, and at the least 5, crossing the Rio de Yucay, which at that
point is as wide as the Genil at Ecija or the Jarama on the Aranjuez
highway.

1527. The construction of the fortress was highly accurate, and
many of the stone blocks were so large that their incredible size made
the work of construction marvelous; they seemed more like pieces
of a mountain than stone. Some of them were over 40 feet long,
20 wide, and 6 thick; and though they were not of the same size,
they were so neatly joined and dovetailed one with another that it
was hardly possible to see or make out the line of union. And while
the ancients counted as the Seven Wonders of the World, the Egyptian
Pyramids, the Walls of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes, the
Mausoleum of Artemisia, the Cretan Labyrinth, etc., if the construc-
tion of this fortress had been in their day, and they had had knowl-
edge of it, they would have given it the first place among them.
In fact, it seemed more like the work of magic than of human
forces and industry, for they had no mechanism, no cranes or pulleys
to help them out, but everything was done by the exertions of human
beings, whom the kings summoned hither from all the adjoining
provinces.

1528. These boulders described above were drawn along by a huge
force of men, who dragged them with thick cables over very rough
roads and grades; it cost them enormous effort, and particularly in
the case of the Piedra Cansada (Accursed Stone), called Saycusca
by the Indians. This was a rough cube of immense size, surpassing
the largest in the fortress; it has a hole at one corner passing com-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 567

pletely through it and coming out at the other corner; they ran the
cable through this to drag it; the Indians said that these openings
by which they pulled it, crawling along, were eyes, and since a red
blotch had been formed by the action of water and dust, they said
it had wept blood. But the truth is what their historians relate, that
at a time when 20,000 Indians were engaged in dragging it along
and steadying it on the grades, on one of them when a large number
were going ahead keeping it headed straight, and most of them
holding it back from behind, either because of its great weight or
of bad management of those [in the rear], it was too much for the
strength of those holding it back and rolled away from them, killing
over 3,000 of those in front; so for this reason they can more truth-
fully say that it wept blood. Nevertheless they got it to the upper
plain, near the fortress; but it stayed there, either because of the
death of Huaynacapac or because it had killed or exhausted so many
Indians; and that is why they give it that name. At present it is
almost below the ground level. It so happened that as soon as the
Spaniards captured the country, since this rock or headland was
so famous among the Indians, their thirst for buried treasure led
the Spaniards to think that there must be some underneath it; so
they dug all around it and made a great hole; and with its huge
weight it dropped into it, thus bringing to naught the avaricious
efforts of the Spaniards.

1529. [Tupac] Inca Yupangui, Huaynacapac’s grandfather, began
the proud construction of the Sacsahuaman fortress. Since the posi-
tion was so strong on the ridge side, he built only on the side toward
the city, constructing a thick wall over 200 fathoms (brazas) long,
in five sections, as seemed needful to him. Although the stone blocks
were of different heights, their general level came out very even,
for they set them and joined them all together with such admirable
accuracy that they had no need of mortar. This wall was not only
very strong, but the stones in it were curiously carved.

CHAPTER LXXIX [82] (78)

Of the Three Walls and Three Towers of Sacsahuaman.

1530. On the other side of the ridge there is a plain, lying higher
and above that of the city, for which reason the crest of the ridge
is reached with greater ease and less effort on that side. So King
[Tupac] Inca Yupangui ordered three walls built on that quarter,
over 200 fathoms long, in the shape of a crescent; these continued
till they united and joined with the wall built on the city side, so that

.

568 “SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Sacsahuaman was now entirely encircled with walls and became an
extremely strong castle or impregnable fortress, which could not
be entered at any point, although in itself the position was not so
very strong.

The three walls were all of huge rough stone blocks, separated
by intervals of some 25 or 30 feet from each other, running up the
ridge and with level stretches, some artificially made and some taking
advantage of the hillside, and with trenches, so that those inside could
fight without being hit. The first surpassed the others in workman- |
ship and strength, for it appears that the Inca wanted to exceed the
limit and manifest his power in this, by constructing it of the largest
and hugest boulders; in strength and size it far surpassed the others.
They left the stones rough, just as they had been brought, and so
placed and joined them one with another that it seemed as if Nature
had created them for that purpose; their rough projections combined
with each other to form an excellent decorative pattern. In fine,
I would say of this construction that all exaggeration falls short of
its true praise, for when one reflects upon the size and strength of
the wall, and the formidable boulders of which it was built, even
when gazing upon it, it seems impossible that human labor could
have fashioned and formed it.

1531. Each circuit or wall contained a central gateway with a
huge rock of proper size and shape on it to serve as a portcullis,
opening and closing the entrance with admirable ingenuity. They
called the first Tiupuncu, which means the sand-bank door, for there
was a sand flat there and sand in that language is called tiu. They
called the gateway in the second wall AcaHuanapuncu, for the master
architect who built it was named Acaguana (sic). The third they
called Viracochapuncu, for they had consecrated it to the god Vira-
cocha, for him to protect the fortress and look after it, just as Inca
Viracocha had freed the city from the furious attack of the Chancas.

1532. On the crest of the ridge, beyond the three walls, there was
a long emplacement on which stood three forts or castles arranged
in a triangle. They called the most important one Mollomarca, which
means the round fortress, because that was its form and shape. In it
there was a fountain admirably sculptured, with excellent water
brought underground from afar. This was the fortress in which the
kings lodged when they came up to visit it and rest there. This was
all decorated with sheets of gold and silver, and on them, great
variety of animals, birds, and plants very naturally fashioned out
of gold and of inestimable value; this served as tapestry. There
were likewise many gold and silver table services for the kings, and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 569

many other treasures, as in the Sun Temple and the other royal
palaces.

1533. They called the second fortress or castle Paucarmarca, and
the third Sacsamarca. They were square and full of apartments and
living quarters for the soldiers who were there in garrison to guard
the fortress. These were Incas of the privileged class, for other
nationalities were excluded. There was a Captain General of the
blood royal who was Warden of the Fortress; it had also the other
usual military functionaries and subordinates, who kept the weapons
and the fortress bright and clean; there was everything necessary
there for the sustenance and clothing of the soldiers.

1534. Beneath these castles or towers they had created an equal
establishment underground, by means of which one fort communi-
cated with another. There were so many avenues and passageways
crossing one another, so many doors and living quarters inside all
the apartments, and such large and elaborate gateways, that this
establishment covered a great area underground. It was laid out
with such system that the Cretan Labyrinth and all its artifices were
not superior to this creation. Once a short distance within it, no
one who entered could be sure of getting out unless he was very
familiar and experienced and for this reason besides the necessity
of carrying a light, they had to fasten a cord to the main entrance
of this establishment and carry the ball in their hand, letting it out
so that it might guide them later for their exit without losing their
way, which was inevitable without this guidance, on account of the
elaborate scheme of the inner lay-out, which was designed with
admirable elegance and skill. They say it was designed by Inca
Hualpa Rimachi, master architect ; his successor in the construction
was Inca Maricanchi, the third was Inca Acaca Huaguana, and the
last was named Calla Cunchuy, in whose day they brought down
the Piedra Cansada. [Five lines illegible. |

1535. The whole lay-out of that famous fortress and its walls
was designed by the great Inca Pachacutec Yupangui; it was begun
by his son, Inca Yupangui. During the entire period of its construc-
tion, which took over 50 years, there were usually more than 20,000
Indians occupied; by command of the Incas they came from the
provinces of their realms to work there. Furthermore there were
many architects and skilled artisans engaged in the construction.
Those who built the most were Tupac Inca and his son Huayna Capac
who finished it and then died in the year 1523; he was succeeded
by his son Huascar Inca, who was killed by the officers of Atahualpa

570 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

when Don Francisco Pizarro entered that Kingdom with his com-
rades in the year 1531.

CHAPTER LXXX [83] (79)

Of the Monarchy of the Incas, Their Conquests and the Dates
of Their Reigns.

1536. According to what I have been able to investigate and dis-
cover in the tales and confused accounts of the Indian quipos, which
are their annals containing their governmental ordinances and the
statement of their deeds, Mango Capac, first King of the Incas, left
the Lake of Titicaca with his wife and sister the Queen, at the com-
mand of his father the Sun (according to the fabrication and fable
which they relate) in the year 1025. He preached the Law of Nature
to those savage tribes, teaching them a civilized manner of life in
communities and elevating them from the savagery in which they
were living like brute beasts ; he showed them how to till the ground
and to do all else as reasonable human beings should. He spent
5 years doing this and finally reached the valley and site which had
been ordained for him by his father the Sun. He devoted a year
there to uplifting the savages who lived thereabout, preaching to
them and instructing them, and in the year 1031 he founded the
imperial city, mother and fatherland of so many kings and emperors
of those austral regions; like another Rome, ennobled by such sons,
she was queen and mistress of so many nationalities whom she brought
under her sway by her arms, and by her laws she kept and main-
tained them for a period of over 500 years in peace and good
government,

1537. After founding the city, King Mango Capac, for its further
ennobling, established the converts to his doctrine and teachings in
over 100 villages round about: to the N. in the Xaquixaguana
(Marg.: Sacsaguana) Valley (i.e., Sacsahuana) and its region, 20;
to the W. toward the Condesuyos Highway, 30; to the E. along the
Rio de Paucartambo, 13; and to the S. along the Collao Highway,
40 villages. Beginning at the salt beds a league from the city, scene
of that cruel battle where Fernando Pizarro routed Don Diego de
Almagro, the villages were established along the Rio de Yucay ; these
were Tambo, Muyna, Quéhuar, Huarac, Cavina, and many others,
as far as the Urcos Valley, which is 6 leagues from the city. After
he had taught them to till and seed the ground, he gave them some
laws and ordinances, with great privileges, especially to the founders
of the city; he made them Incas by privilege and ordered that they

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 571

should have their ears pierced; they are the ancestors of the nobility
and gentlemen of Cuzco, the so-called “‘orejones” (big ears). Many
of the villages established by Mango Capac grew and increased only
to be destroyed and laid waste by the tyranny of the officers of
Atahualpa, and those that remained [they] were transferred to larger
settlements by the Viceroy Don Francisco de Toledo.

1538. Inca Mango Capac governed the realm and city which he
had founded and converted, over 40 years, according to the best
historians of those ancient days; he died in the year 1071, leaving
as his legitimate and universal heir Prince Sinchi Roca, his son by
the Queen Mama Oclla Guaco, his sister and wife. In addition he
left over 100 sons and daughters by other wives and concubines ;
he charged them to observe his laws and his good administration,
and to see that their vassals were well treated ; and then he took leave
of them, saying he was going to rest with his father the Sun, who
was calling him.

1539. King Sinchi Roca began reigning that same year of 1071,
and after inspecting his Kingdom, he subdued to the S. the Provinces
of the Canas and Canchis and Puquinas, as far as Chungara, 20
leagues farther than his father’s conquests. Others say however that
he subdued also Omasuyo, Cangalla, Asillo and Azangaro, Huancané,
Pucara, and to the E., 40 leagues ESE. from Cuzco, the Province
of Caravaya. And having governed his realm and what he had con-
quered in peace and wise administration for 34 years, he died in the
year 1105, leaving as his universal heir Prince Lloque Yupangui, his
legitimate son by his sister and wife Mama Cora, not to mention
over 130 other sons and daughters whom he left, both by his legiti-
mate wife and nieces as well as by numerous other concubines whom
he had; he charged him to treat his vassals well, as their father the
Sun had enjoined upon them. This Sinchi Roca built the fortress
of Pucara.

Cuap. About Lloque Yupangui, Third King of Cuzco.

1540. Lloque Yupangui, third king of the great city of Cuzco,
succeeded King Sinchi Roca his father in the royal title in the year
1105, and as soon as he had paid the last rites to his father, he
inspected his Kingdom, attended to the needs of his vassals, and
instituted reforms in the Province of Los Canas. Having done this,
he went to Collao, where he subdued the Provinces of Ayaviri, Atun-
colla, Collasuyo, Chucuito, Ilave, Juli, Pomata, and Zepita, and began
the conquest of the Province of Los Pacajes. On returning to Cuzco,

572 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

he ordered the erection on the Carmenga ridge of some turrets at
intervals for the observation of the sun’s declination; he made great
achievements in philosophy ; and having executed other famous deeds
and buildings in his Kingdom and having adorned the Temple of
the Sun, he was succeeded after a reign of 36 years by Prince Mayta
Capac, his legitimate son by his Queen Mama Cava, his sister and wife.
He had also more than 100 other sons and daughters, legitimate and
out of wedlock. He died in the year 1141, and was laid with his
ancestors beside the Sun his father.

1541. Mayta Capac, fourth king of the Incas and of the imperial
city of Cuzco, after paying the last honors to his father, inspected
all his empire and disciplined the governors throughout it in order
to ensure good treatment of the Indians, for his chief solicitude
was to look out for the good of his vassals. After doing this he
went down to Collao and subdued Tiahuanaco; he had rafts made
to ferry across the outlet of the great Lake of Chucuito. He subdued
a large part of the Province of Los Pacajes, a work begun by his
father. He conquered Cayaviri, which defended itself bitterly against
him; and he subdued Caquingora, Huarina, Mallama, and other
settlements. Then he went W. to the Province of Chuna, which is
built on a mountaintop; and because they shot poisoned arrows,
he inflicted cruel punishment on them, burning them alive; but those
who were guiltless he settled in the Moquegua Valley, 5 leagues from
that locality.

1542. After this settlement just described, he turned E. through
Collao, near the Province of Omasuyo, and conquered the Provinces
of Larecaja and Sangavan, which are over 50 leagues long, and
brought these provinces into his empire. He had a bloody battle with
the natives of the Province of Huaicho, who made a valiant defense
until they were conquered. Then he went to the Chuquiabo and
Caracato Valleys, which he conquered with ease as far as Caracollo
and the Province of Paria, in which lies the town of Oruro with its
very rich silver mines.

1543. Having conquered and subdued these provinces, he returned
to the imperial city of Cuzco, where he rested from the conquests
he had achieved and devoted himself to wise administration looking to
the good of his vassals. He set out to conquer the western provinces,
and for that purpose ordered the building of a famous bridge of
wicker cables over the great Rio de Apurimac; crossing over this
with his army, he immediately conquered the Provinces of Los
Chumbivilcas, Velille, Aclla, Taurisma, Cotahuasi, Pumatambos, and
Parinacochas; he subdued the Provinces of Los Condesuyos, and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 573

in the Arequipa Valley he established the villages of Chimba, Suca-
huaya, and others. In these provinces he brought under his sway
an area over 100 leagues long N. and S., and over 15 leagues across
from E. to W.; and having increased his empire by more than 300
leagues and having spent over 30 years in his campaigns and in the
administration of his Kingdoms, he was succeeded by the great Prince
Capac Yupangui, his son by his sister and legitimate wife the Queen
Mama Cuca. He left many other sons and daughters, legitimate and
out of wedlock, over 100 in number. He died full of the trophies
of victory in the year 1171, and was set with his fathers in the House
of the Sun. [And because—three words illegible]. In the following
chapter we shall relate the campaigns of the great Capac Yupangut.

Guaprer XOX xres4q (C2)

Of the Conquests of Capac Yupangui, Inca Roca, and Yahuar
Huacac, and Their Administration.

1544. After the great Capac Yupangui had fulfilled the solemn
rites of his father’s funeral, he made a personal inspection of his
Kingdom, like his predecessors, to see to the well-being of his vassals
and to relieve their necessities. Then he set out to build the Huaca-
chaca bridge over the great Rio de Apurimac, by which he crossed
with his army to the Provinces of Yanaguara, Aymaraes, and
Omasayos, their neighbors; he established order there, and then in
the second campaign he waged, he brought under his sway the
Cotabambas, Cotaneras, and Guamanpallas of the Quichua tribe;
in this last province he crossed a branch of the Rio de Amancay,
where the fort of Chuquinga stands; it was there that Marshal Alva-
rado was defeated by the rebel Francisco Hernandez Jiron. This is
all gold country.

1545. In his third campaign he brought under his sway the Acari
Valleys down on the seacoast, which contained over 20,000 Indians.
His son Prince Inca Roca went along with the army for practice in
valor ; all these kings did this to set a good example for their sons,
so that they should know how to conduct war and administration.
They subdued the valleys of Chala, Atico, Ocofia, Camana, and many
others along the coast, and since there were some who committed
the unpardonable sin, he had them burned alive and their houses
sowed with salt, so that only the memory of their crime should survive.

1546. He made his fourth campaign to the S., to the farthest
bound of Collao with its large villages in the Province of Paria,
and brought them under his sway, and two caciques or kings of whom

574 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

one was named Cari and the other Chipana. These were very
courageous, and their rivalry led to cruel warfare between them;
they were the lords of Porco, Ata, Moromoro, Macha, and Caracara,
up to the snow peaks of Tapacari; and there were other provinces
which he subdued and brought under his sway.

1547. On his fifth campaign he first built a bridge of woven straw
over the Outlet by dint of industry; that was the largest that had
been built up to that day, as will be told in its due place. He subdued
the Provinces and settlements of the Charcas, Chayanta, Totora,
Sipesipe, and Chaqui, and to the E., Chamuru, Sacasaca, where coca
grows, and other provinces. He ordered irrigation trenches built to
water the fields and cultivated ground, and thus did his vassals a
great service.

1548. He had many bridges built, so that his vassals could cross
the rivers without risk; and when he had established order in those
provinces he returned to his court, where he was well received. And
after he had rested from these campaigns and attended to admin-
istrative matters and the relief of his vassals, he set out again, to
conquer Amancay and Curahuasi. From there he traversed the
Cochacassa desert, which is 20 leagues across, and subdued the
Provinces of Los Soras, which were large and well peopled; Aucara,
Los Lucanas, and the Nasca valleys on the western plains. After
the conquest of so many large provinces in the 40 years of his reign,
he was succeeded by Prince Inca Roca, his son by Coya Mama
Cariyllpay, his sister and wife; he had in addition over 80 other sons
and daughters, legitimate and out of wedlock. He died in the year
1211, mourned by all his vassals, and was set with his fathers in
the Temple of the Sun.

1549. Inca Roca, the sixth king of the Incas, after assuming the
red tassel which was like crown and scepter, and after accomplishing
the last rites for his father, went and inspected his Kingdoms, to
see if his governors administered and upheld his vassals in justice,
and to comfort them with his presence and to bestow rewards upon
them, which they observed as a custom and indeed as a law and
precept of their first father Mango Capac, who said that it had been
enjoined upon him by his father the Sun, and he left this mandate
and injunction for his descendants. He returned to his imperial
city and at once ordered that a famous woven cable bridge should
be thrown over the Rio de Apurimac (at the point where the Lima
King’s Highway now crosses it), and traversed it with his army,
going on to the Rio de Abancay; from there he brought under his
dominion the villages of Tacmar, Quinualla, Cochas, Curapampa, and

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 575

others lying to the E., as far as the Province of Vilcabamba. He
went on to the Chancas, a warlike people occupying the Province of
Andahuailas, whom he brought under his sway together with the
tribes of Hancoallu, Utunsulla, and Uramarca, with the Province of
Vilcas. From there he crossed to the Province of Atunsulla and
Sulla, which is where the modern Huancavelica stands; and after
these so successful campaigns, he returned to his court, where he
took up the administration and the just treatment of his vassals.

1550. Second campaign: he sent his son Prince Yahuar Huacac to
the E. and subdued the Provinces of Paucartambo, Challapampa,
Pillcupata, Abisca, and Tuno, which are the villages where they
gather the coca so greatly prized by the Indians.

1551. After this campaign he went in person to the Provinces
of the Charcas, taking the prince his son along with him, and sub-
dued the valleys of Chunguri, Pocona, Misque, Moromoro, Sacaca,
Machaca, Caracara, and on that quarter extended his empire over
50 leagues to the N., and as much E. and W. Then he returned
victorious to his court, where he was received with celebrations and
rejoicing ; and he lived there in quiet and leisure, administering his
realms. He founded the university in the imperial city and estab-
lished Amautas there to teach the sciences; he promulgated many
laws for the well-being of his vassals; and after reigning over 50
years, he left as his successor Prince Yahuar Huacac, his son by
Queen Mama Micay. (Yahuar Huacac said that the Sun was not
a god, since he is always in constant movement, and he stated other
great truths; he had knowledge of the real God.) He left more
than 100 sons and daughters, legitimate and out of wedlock; he died
in the year 1261, was mourned by all his Kingdom, and was placed
with his fathers in the Temple of the Sun.

1552. King Yahuar Huacac, seventh king, after attending to the
solemnities of his father’s funeral and assuming the red tassel, gov-
erned his Kingdom in perfect peace and quiet, without venturing to
go out in person on new campaigns, for he had received an omen
in that he had wept blood as a child, according to the story told by
his people; in fact, the name Yahuar Huacac means weeps blood.
However he sent his men off to war under his brother Inca Mayta
as General, and from that time the latter was called Apu Mayta,
this new title meaning great lord. In the first expedition he made
he conquered all the plains country, from Arequipa to Atacama;
in the second he set out to subdue the large Province of Los Carangas,
Los Lipes, and Chichas, and to bring them under his sway. He did
not attempt any more campaigns but devoted himself to governing

576 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

his vassals. Since his son Prince Viracocha was unruly and rude in
character, he sent him off to the Chita pasturage, a league E. of
Cuzco, where he busied himself tending the flocks of the Sun with
other shepherds. There in his dreams Viracocha had a vision of the
rebellion of the Chancas, coming to seize and besiege the city of
Cuzco. Inca Yahuar Huacac left in flight with his Incas and fellow
citizens; but Prince Viracocha the shepherd went forth in defense
of his city against the Chancas, having got together a large force
of Indians, and defeated the enemy. That was about the end of this
reign, for after the victory the son ordered his father the King to
build royal apartments in Muyna and he lived there the rest of his
life dispossessed of his Kingdom; he ruled altogether more than 30
years and left many sons and daughters, like the other Incas. He
died in the year 1291 or thereabouts, his son Inca Viracocha having
already ruled for several years.

Cuapter LXXXVII [85] (81)

Of Inca Viracocha, Eighth King of Cuzco, of His Deeds, and of
Other Kings Who Followed Him.

1558. Inca Viracocha, the eighth king of the Incas, after the victory
over the Chancas assumed the tassel at the age of 23, while his father
was still living but had retired at his command to the royal palace
that he had ordered built for him in the Muyna Narrows. His father
had outlawed him to Chita when he was 19, and he stayed there
tending the flocks of the Sun for 3 years; in the fourth he went out
with his dream and with it, like a valiant soldier, he won the great
victory of Yahuarpampa, which means field of blood, on account
of the quantity spilt in that hard-fought battle, which lasted 8 hours
and in which over 30,000 Indians died, 22,000 on the side of the
Chancas, and 8,000, of the Incas. Inca Viracocha, who was given
this title by his uncle, was bidden by the vision to build a temple
in the village of Cacha, 16 leagues from Cuzco on the Collao High-
way, in honor of his god Viracocha, as is told at length by the Inca
Garcilaso, book I, folio 121. After he had inspected his Kingdoms,
he first subdued the Provinces of Los Carangas, Ullaca, Lipes, and
Chichas, which his father had meant to conquer; and having set
governors in them, he returned to his court. Then he set out toward
the N. on his second campaign and brought under his sway the
Provinces of Huaitara, Pocra or Guamanga, Sangaro, Parco, Picdy,
and Acos. After subduing these provinces, he built for their benefit
a great irrigation channel from Parco, 12 feet wide and more than

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA B77

120 leagues long, with which they watered the fields for their crops
and their flocks. He had another built for Los Condesuyos, which
crossed the whole territory of those provinces and was over 150
leagues long. These works were unique and unparalleled in the
world, and there have been few kings on earth who have conferred
such benefits upon their vassals as did these, or who were so tenderly
and passionately loved by their vassals; but it was all justified by
their works. Besides these and other heroic deeds, Viracocha erected
fortresses and temples all over his empire and thus greatly ennobled it.

1554. After rest and repose from the works and campaigns he
had carried out, he set out on his third for the Provinces of the
Charcas, Amparaes, and Chichas ; there they came to render obedience
to him from the Provinces of Tucuman, and he sent delegates down
there to take possession and to see that they were instructed and
disciplined in his false religion. While in Los Chichas, he was
informed that the great Huncoallo had gone off with over 10,000
of his men and had entered the rough mountains of Paucartambo
in the Province of Chinchaycocha. Viracocha returned to his court
and governed his empire in perfect peace and tranquillity, looking
after the welfare of his vassals. He built the sumptuous structures
of Tambo, Yucay, and many others throughout the Kingdom. He
ruled over 60 years and added 11 provinces by his campaigns to
the empire; and he died full of the trophies of victory at the age
of 84, in the year 1351. He was succeeded as King by Prince
Pachacutec Yupangui, his son by Queen Mama Ocllo, his sister and
wife; he had over roo other sons and daughter, legitimate and
illegitimate. His death was mourned by his whole Kingdom and he
was set and placed in the Temple of the Sun with his ancestors, and
honored by his subjects as a god,

CHAP. About Pachacutec Yupangui.

1555. Pachacutec Yupangui, the ninth king of the Incas, observed
funeral rites for King Viracocha his father, assumed the tassel and
then inspected his Kingdoms; that was the first thing those kings
did, to look after the welfare of their vassals and relieve their
necessities. Then he left his court with a large army for the N. and
subdued the great Province of Jauja, belonging to the Huanca tribe.
For its preservation in untroubled peace, he cut it up into three
sections ; the first was named Jauja, the second Marcavilca, and the
third, Sapallanga; he left governors for them and went on to the
Province of Tarma and subdued it, with other settlements to the E.

38

578 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

From there he went on to the Province of Chinchaycocha and
Bombon, very cold country, which he brought under his sway with
ease. The marriage ceremony in this tribe was merely a kiss which
the bridegroom imprinted on the bride’s forehead. On his return
he conquered the Province of Los Chocorvos ; they were very warlike
and he had several encounters with them before he brought them
to submission.

1556. This is the province in which the city of Castrovirreina was
founded, the silver-mine center. He subdued the Province of Ancara,
and then spent 3 years in a personal inspection of his Kingdoms,
to see that the governors were comporting themselves properly and
not oppressing his vassals. Then he left his court for the N. and
after traveling over 150 leagues subdued the Provinces of Huamalies,
Pinco, Huari, Piscobamba, Cajatambo, and Huailas, where he burned
some sodomites who lived there, so that the penalty might cause
reform and bring discretion. Then he went on to the great Province
of Conchucos ; this is rough country and the Corongos and Pallascas
Indians were very warlike, so it cost him much effort to subdue them.
Then he went on to the Province of Huamachuco, and the good
Cacique Huamachuco came out with his Indians to receive him
peacefully. Farther on, he subdued the large and warlike Province
of Cajamarca and those of Cuzmango, Simball, and Niepos and
Chongos, and having made all these provinces acknowledge his rule,
on his return to his court he brought the Provinces of Canta and
Yauyos under his sway. He was received with great joy at his court,
where he passed several years absorbed in the government of his
Kingdoms and his vassals; he rested from his wars and he added
other grand structures to his imperial city.

1557. He made his third campaign in the valleys over toward
Chinchasuio, having sent Prince Yinga Yupangui his son ahead with
a great army; he subdued the Ica and Pisco Valleys; in the great
Chincha Valley the natives were very warlike; their king was named
Chincha; he made a valiant defense in many battles but was finally
defeated by the Incas. Here he put up a sumptuous temple to the
Sun; and his father King Pachacutec having sent him reinforcements,
he subdued the Lunahuana valleys and the great Guarco Valley,
which is where the town of Cafiete stands today; and Chilca and
Mala, which belonged to the powerful and warlike King Chuqui-
mango, on those plains, so that cost many years of war; the Incas
established another city there, calling it Cuzco, until they brought
them to submission; and as a trophy for this victory, the Inca built
by the waterside a famous fortress, and other remarkable edifices.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 579

1558. This campaign lasted 4 years; then, after governors had
been appointed in the recent conquests, Gen. Capac Yupangui, brother
of King Pachacutec, went over into the Pachacamac valleys, taking
with him into the war Prince Inca Yupangui, his nephew.

1559. In the Pachacamac Valley there was a proud and wealthy
temple dedicated to Pachacamac, that is, the Creator, although it
contained other infamous idols, such as foxes, fishes, and others
of the like. In the Lima Valley there was another temple with a
talking idol, by whom the Devil replied to all the questions they put
to him. These two important valleys, with that of Chancay Huaman,
i.e., La Barranca, and two others, belonged to King Cuysmancu,
a powerful lord; the Inca won them over in peaceful and brotherly
fashion, on friendly terms, and Cuysmancu became their vassal
under the conditions proposed. This is where the city of Lima stands
at present, court city of the Kingdoms of Peru. On account of this
idol referred to, who spoke often and answered all the questions
they put to him, the valley was called Rimac—the speaker—and the
Spaniards call it Lima.

When these campaigns were over, they returned to Cuzco, where
they were welcomed with festivities and rejoicing. Then Inca Pacha-
cutec gave his army a respite from wars and campaigns, and busied
himself for the period of 6 years with the administration of his
Kingdom and in the erection of many sumptuous buildings ; he lined
the Temple of the Sun with sheets of gold and adorned it with much
other wealth; he conferred distinction on the university, promul-
gating many excellent laws for the wise administration of his realms.

1560. After doing all this, he appointed Prince Inca Yupangui his
son General (of a large army which he ordered raised) and sent
him along the sierra up to the Lima region, from which he descended
to the plains on the fourth campaign of his reign, from La Barranca
to where the city of Trujillo is built; near there stood the great city
of Chimu; King Chimu was king and lord of all the valleys of
Huarmey, Casma, Guambacho, Santa, Huafape, and the Trujillo
Valley. He waged bitter war with this king and his vassals, and
after a long time he brought them under his sway. In this region
he subdued over 130 leagues of territory N. and S. and won more
Kingdoms and provinces than any of his predecessors; he was a
great legislator and ruled over 60 years. He had over 300 sons and
daughters, legitimate and out of wedlock, and some state that they
were more than 400 in number. He was succeeded in the Kingdom
by Inca Yupangui, his son by Coya Mama Huarque, his sister and
wife. He aggrandized the imperial city with sumptuous buildings ;

580 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

(Marg.: he left the plans for the fortress and walls of Cuzco, en-
joining their construction upon his son;) and he uttered many sen-
tentious sayings, worthy of such a great king. He died in the year
I4I1I and was lamented by his whole Kingdom; he was embalmed
and set beside his ancestors in the House and Temple of the Sun.

CHAPTER LXXXVIII [86] (82)

Of Inca Yupangui, Tenth King of Cuzco, and His Successors.

1561. The new King Inca Yupangui, tenth king of Cuzco, after
paying the last honors to his father and assuming the tassel, made
a personal inspection of his realms to see and relieve the necessities
of his subjects and vassals. He decided to try a difficult campaign
toward the E., and had many rafts made, on which he put 10,000
warrior Indians. These embarked on the great Rio Pilcomayo, and
subdued the tribe of the Chunchos, who were established on its banks.
Then they proceeded to the Province of Los Mojos, a country very
rich in gold; there those Inca soldiers settled down and married
into that tribe; later, their sons and descendants wanted to come
out, in the days of Huayna Capac, grandson of that king; but when
they got news of the death of their king and the entry of the Span-
iards into those realms, they stayed there. Later, he set out to subdue
the savage and barbarous tribe of the Chiriguanaes; but since their
country was very marshy, with high mountains, he left them in
degradation, for they seemed to him too bestial to be capable of the
improvement he planned for them.

1562. Having returned to his court and inspected his Kingdom,
he sent an expedition to Chile, in which 6 years were consumed ;
they subdued the valleys of Copiapo, El Huasco, Coquimbo, that of
Chile, from which the Kingdom takes its name, and down to the
Rio de Maule, where he had serious battles with those natives; he
appointed governors for them, and they sent him gold, very fine
feathers, and other valuables. When he had governed his Kingdoms
in perfect peace for over 30 years, he started the fortress of Cuzco
on the Sacsahuaman ridge; he inspected his Kingdoms and relieved
the necessities of his vassals with great attention; he charged Prince
Tupac Yupangui, his son by Coya Chimpu Ocllo, his sister and wife,
with the observation of his laws and the kind treatment of his vassals ;
he enlarged his realms some 500 leagues: on the S. from Atacama
as far as the Rio de Maule, almost 300 leagues; and on the N., over
150, from Ica up to the Kingdom of Chimu. He died full of achieve-
ments and trophies in the year 1441, leaving besides his heir over

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vVAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 581

250 children, legitimate and out of wedlock; he was mourned by all
his Kingdoms, and set in the Temple of the Sun with his forebears ;
they offered sacrifices to him there as to a god, so reverently was
he respected and canonized by his subjects as a saint.

CHap. Of Tupac Inca Yupangui, Eleventh King.

1563. Tupac Inca Yupangui, eleventh king of the Incas, succeeded
his father Inca Yupangui in the reign; and when they had paid him
the last honors and the whole Kingdom had lamented him for an
entire year, which was their custom, he at once assumed the red
tassel in token of possession, and spent 4 years in personal inspection
of his realms. Then he raised a large army and went with it to
Cajamarca, from which point he set out to subdue the Provinces
of Huacrachuco, Chachapoyas, and those which it comprises, viz,
Pias, Cunturmarca, Cajamarquilla del Collay, where they get quan-
tities of gold, Papamarca, so named for the great amount of potatoes
(papas) raised in that district, Raymi Pampa, Suta, Levanto, Luya,
Chillaos, Pracamurus, Muyubamba, Cascayunca, and others. These
were hard to subdue, the country being very rough and the Indians
brave, defending their country with courage; they wore as insignia
slings around their heads, like garlands. He conquered and subdued
them after many battles which he won over them, and left them
peaceful; he set governors over them to inculcate his laws and cus-
toms and govern them in perfect peace. Then he returned to Caja-
marca, and went on from there to the Province of Los Chongos,
which borders on Los Huancabambas and Cascayunca.

1564. The inhabitants of the great Province of Huancabamba
were very bestial and obtuse; they had no form of government and
ate human flesh. He subdued them, made villages for them, gave
them laws, and forbade under heavy penalties the eating of human
flesh. From this province he went on to those of Cajas and Aya
Huacac and Los Calvas, which he conquered and brought under
his sway. He left there some of his Incas to govern them and teach
them their manner of life according to law and ordered government,
and then returned to his court, where he was received with great
festivities and rejoicing. After devoting several years to the wise
administration of his Kingdoms and vassals, he put 20,000 Indians
to work on the fortifications of Cuzco and its walls; leaving that
in charge of his ministers, and having conferred many honors and
rewards on his vassals, he got together a large army for the conquest
of the Provinces of Huanuco and those adjoining.

582 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1565. Having left the affairs of his court in good form, and
having entrusted the administration of the Kingdom to one of his
brothers, he set out with his army for the Provinces of Huanuco.
The Indians there were warlike and savage, but he conquered them
and settled them in villages, for they had none. He built a famous
temple to the Sun in that province, and a House of the Chosen
Virgins, which he made the mother house for the Kingdom; he put
over 30,000 Indians there to serve them and collect the tribute for
the Sun and his consorts ; that was one of the finest and most massive
buildings erected in those Kingdoms, as is shown by the ruins of
the [illegible].

CuHapTer LXXXIX (87)

Of Other Conquests Made by Tupac Inca.

1566. Then he went on to the N. up to the Provinces of Aya
Huacac and Calva; his wars with them and their subjugation cost
him over 8,000 Incas. He subdued the Province of Los Paltas; the
Paltas’ ideal of beauty is to have the head flattened with a board.
From this province they brought that excellent fruit (1.e., the palta,
aguacate) to Cuzco, to the hot valleys, where they planted it. He
subdued Garruchamba, Saraguro, and Giron, and other provinces.

1567. Then he went ahead and subdued the large Province of
Los Cafiaris; the great Inca Tupac himself took part and taught
them his laws. Next to them was another province with a vile and
degenerate tribe called Quillacu; when he saw how degraded they
were, he imposed a heavy tribute of lice upon them, so that they
should clean themselves up.

1568. In the Province of Tomebamba he built a famous Temple
of the Sun and House of the Chosen Virgins, with other splendid
buildings which he adorned and enriched with much gold, silver,
and precious stones, emeralds, turquoises, and others of value; he
made those royal apartments the capital of a Kingdom, to which
they repaired with their tribute from all the adjoining provinces,
which are rich in gold ore.

1569. From this province he went on with this army to the Prov-
inces of Tiquisambe, Chanchan, Quesma, Pumallacta, Zaguarzongo,
Tiucassa, Cayambe, Urcollaso, Chimbo, Puruaes, and others; he
brought them under his sway and gave them teachers and governors,
to inculcate his laws and govern them in peace.

1570. He went on toward Guayaquil and subdued the settlements
of Pimocha, Jipijapa, Picoasa, and Huancavilcas, who sent him gifts

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 583

and begged for someone to teach and discipline them in his laws
and religion. These provinces lie where Puerto Viejo stands today.

1571. After completing these campaigns, he sent his son Prince
Huayna Capac out to subdue Los Sigchos, Mucha, Latacunga, Mulalo,
after first conquering the Provinces of Los Puruaes, Chambo, Ambato,
Pilileo, Patate, Quero, and many others; and after bringing them
under his sway, those of Pansaleo, Quixos and all those in that region
subject to King Quito. His conquests included these provinces and
those of Otavalé, Carangue, Uyumbicho, Yumbos, Zangoyqui, Aloag,
Aloasi, Machangara, Chillo Gallo, Zambeza, Cingondoy, Tisaleo,
Alangasi, Hatunchillo, Cumbaya, and others subject to King Quito;
here he had great encounters and battles before he subdued and
defeated them after King Quito’s death. To the E. he subdued the
Province of Los Cofanes, and farther to the N., Los Pastos, with
the Carangues, who were brutish and cruel cannibals. He had great
battles with them before subduing them; he gave them and the other
provinces governors and teachers to show them a manner of life
under law and order. After making all these conquests of so many
provinces, which had taken him over 5 years, he came to the imperial
city of Cuzco, where he was received by the King his father and
the court with great joy and celebrations.

1572. Tupac Inca Yupangui reigned over 40 years; he conquered
many large provinces, he administered and inspected his realms and
vassals, he built many temples and sumptuous edifices in all of them,
and embellished his imperial city with royal palaces; he had a large
part constructed of the fortress and walls of Sacsahuaman, which
his father had started; he enjoined upon his son, Prince Huayna
Capac, the observance of his laws and kindly treatment of his vassals ;
and he paid high signal honors to those who had served him well. He
died in the year 1481 and was succeeded in the Kingdom by Huayna
Capac, his son by Queen Mama Ocllo. He enjoined upon him also
to make the Huancavilcas of Puerto Viejo pay dear for the treachery
and perfidy they had committed in murdering his captains who had
gone there at their request to teach them his laws and religion. He
was mourned by his entire Kingdom, for he had been a good king
and very considerate with his vassals. He uttered many famous
sayings, and among them, this, that the Sun could not be a god, for
he neither had any freedom to leave his regular course, nor did he
fail to be in perpetual movement. Besides his heir, he left over 200
sons and daughters, legitimate and out of wedlock, by his wives and
concubines. He was embalmed and set in the Temple of the Sun with
his ancestors.

584 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

e

CHAPTER XC [88] (84)

Of King Huayna Capac and His Conquests and Vicissitudes [of
His Successors].

1573. Huayna Capac, twelfth most powerful monarch and emperor
of the Incas, laid aside the yellow tassel which was the princes’
insignia, and assumed the red tassel, in token of possession of royal
power; he fulfilled all the honors and solemnities of placing his
father in the Temple of the Sun, spending an entire year in those
formalities, as was customary for a king’s funeral rites; and then
he set out on an inspection of his realms, to remedy abuses which
might exist, and to promote universal justice and well-being for his
vassals. While engaged in this he received word of the birth of his
first son; thereupon he came at once to the court to celebrate his
birth and give him a name; and for the joyous occasion he ordered
a gold chain made with each link as thick as a man’s wrist and 350
paces long, as was related by the Indians of those days and is stated
in their writings by the historians—a jewel of incredible magnificence,
and on a par with other achievements of his.

1574. Accordingly when. he had celebrated the festivities for the
birth of the prince his heir, he ordered an army of 40,000 men
raised and with it went down to the plains to the great city of Chimu.
From there he started campaigning and brought under his sway the
valleys of Chicama, Pascamayu, Safa, Chiclayo, Lambayeque, Allanca,
Reque, Motupe, Olmos, Catacaos, Colan, and many others, as far
as Tumbes; these valleys were thickly settled with people who became
devoted and obedient to him; he appointed teachers among them, to
inculcate his laws and govern them and uphold justice. Then he
went to Quito and spent over 2 years ennobling that Kingdom with
sumptuous temples and splendid buildings; he had great irrigation
canals made, drawing water from the rivers to irrigate the fields for
their crops and flocks.

1575. After doing this he ordered a large army raised and went
with it to the Sullana valleys down by the sea; from there he sent
a summons for submission to the natives of Tumbes, who paid their
allegiance to the Inca. Chunana, Chintuy, Collonche, Laquall, and
other valleys were likewise brought under his sway. In Tumbes he
built sumptuous temples to the Sun and to his Chosen Virgins,
adorning them with great wealth of gold and silver and other precious
things. After doing this he chastised the natives of the Huancavilca
tribe for the treachery which they had wrought on the officers and
functionaries of his father, and then subdued the Indians on the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 585

island of Puna; he brought them into the Inca Empire and left
teachers with them to instruct them in his laws, and other officers
and functionaries for their wise administration. But they treacher-
ously drowned them all in the sea; when King Huayna Capac learned
of this perfidy, he returned to the island with an army and dealt out
exemplary punishment to the culprits, to serve as an example to
others.

CHAPTER XCI (89)

Of Huayna Capac’s Campaigns, and of the Royal Highways Which
He Built.

1576. At this time the Provinces of Chachapoyas rebelled against
this valiant King, and for the ingratitude they had shown in murdering
his officers and governors, he set out to inflict cruel chastisement
upon them; but this was averted by the prayers of a Chachapoyan
matron, the stepmother of a wife of his father Tupac Inca, and the
humility of the culprits, who repented of their crimes and professed
reform. So he pardoned them and left governors with them to
discipline them in observing his laws; and they were good and
obedient vassals thereafter.

1577. After pacifying these provinces, he went on to those of
Manta, Charapoto, Apichiqui, Pichunsi, Sava, Pellansimiqui, Pampa-
huasi, Saramist, and Pasado, which lies under the Equator. And
when he had brought them under his sway, he reflected that the
country beyond was all lofty mountains and the natives savage and
unable to profit by the benefits he would bring them, for they were
so brutish that they had no houses nor individual wives and children ;
so he decided to go no farther, thinking it would be a loss of effort ;
and so when he had regulated these conquests, he returned [to
Quito] to Cuzco, for it seemed to him that anything further would be
a waste of exertion.

The Province of Carangue, whose natives were very savage canni-
bals, rose in rebellion in order to continue their cruel and brutish
way of life. They killed the officers and functionaries of the Inca,
and ate them up. When the Inca learned of the rebellion and atro-
cities of these savages, he was deeply moved and ordered an army
raised to wage war upon them with fire and sword. He subdued
them and ordered severe chastisement for all the culprits, who are
said to have been over 2,000 in number, so that it should serve as
a deterrent for some and an example for others; so he ordered that
they should be beheaded on a lake which lies in that region, and
so in memory of the chastisement they called it Yahuar Cocha, which

586 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

means blood lake, for it became red with the blood of the culprits
beheaded.

1578. He built the two famous highways through the sierra and
through the plains, which are called the Inca’s Highways. For that
of the sierra he had mountains leveled and cast down and ravines
filled up so that they should be even and the highway should run
smoothly over the peaks and heights of the mountains. Furthermore
he ordered cabins built at intervals of a league one from the other
over the entire distance of the highway for the couriers, who were
absolutely necessary for the speedy transmission of any news over
such a vast and far-flung empire. These were normally occupied
by Indians appointed by the elders for that special purpose; these
were called chasques, and each ran the league that fell to him with
the message or information for the Inca; thus in less than 8 days
they ran with a message more than 500 leagues. Besides the above,
there were royal apartments at stated intervals, where the royal
family lodged when they went traveling, and round about them many
buildings which served for the storage of foodstuffs and other pur-
poses. Most of these buildings serve the Spaniards at present as
tambos or taverns, for they come at the intervals of the day’s journeys
which they make.

Over the plains he built another similar highway, like a broad
straight avenue with walls at the sides built very carefully of adobe
bricks (tapia) ; these too had royal apartments at intervals. At the
present day one can see the ruins and the construction of these
buildings, and part of the highway is still standing, but much of
it is wrecked and other stretches are choked with guarango groves.
These were achievements worthy of such a wise and magnanimous
king ; it would have been very sensible to have taken more care of
the roads, for their preservation, for that would have been to the
advantage of the Spaniards; but as no one looks beyond his own
private interest to the general good, it is all going to ruin.

1579. This wise and powerful King ruled over 42 years, during
which he subdued many provinces and tribes and chastised some for
having rebelled, as being barbarous and ungrateful. He uttered many
wise sayings, and had knowledge of the true God, and that the Sun
was not God. He knew of the coming of the Spaniards and enjoined
upon his subjects that they should be loyal and obedient to them, for
the Law which they would teach them was better than the law of the
Incas. He had more than 200 sons and daughters, legitimate of their
blood royal, and illegitimate. His successor was Huascar Inca; but
with his consent he established another Kingdom for Atahualpa, his

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son by his wife or concubine the daughter of King Quito, of whom
he had been [husband of the mother]. This partition of the King-
doms was the complete ruin and destruction of that great monarchy,
and the end of those kings; but Our Lord arranged it in His Divine
Providence so that the preaching of His Gospel might penetrate those
countries which the Incas had been instructing in the Law of Nature
and so preparing them for that of Grace. Huayna Capac died at
Quito in the year 1523; they opened and embalmed his body and
took it to the imperial city of Cuzco, to the Temple of the Sun,
where he was laid and worshiped by his subjects as a god. His heart
and entrails he ordered buried in Quito, for the love he bore that
Kingdom, which he had conquered. His death was mourned and
deeply felt by all the Kingdoms of his vassals.

CHAPTER XCII (Marg.: 86)

Of Huascar Inca, Thirteenth King of Cuzco, and of His Death.

1580. After paying the funeral honors and solemnities to their
father Huayna Capac in the year 1523 [1623], the two new Kings—
Huascar at Cuzco, the legitimate successor, who assumed the red
tassel in token of possession, and Atahualpa at Quito, in his new
parasitic Kingdom—lived in peace for several years, attending to
the wise administration of their Kingdoms and vassals, each in his
own Kingdom. This tranquil period lasted for 5 years; at the end
of that time, Huascar reflected upon the mistake he had made in
consenting to the formation of the new Kingdom of Atahualpa’s, in
his desire to obey and please his father; that was contrary to the
laws, statutes, and practice of the great Inca Mango Capac and his
descendants, the Kings of Cuzco; there were tribes to subdue in
that quarter, and he could not do it, because of the boundaries set
for the new Kingdom; and since the new King Atahualpa had been
appointed for the reasons given, it was only right that he should
recognize him as his superior and the greater monarch, with some
vassalage and feudal tribute. He held a meeting of his Council on
this subject, and with this end in view despatched an Inca relative
of his on this embassy ; Atahualpa received and listened to him with
much humility and pleasure, to all appearance.

This gave the incentive for the rebellion which he had been astutely
and shrewdly nursing for the ruin of his brother and the destruction
of his Kingdom. He replied to the ambassador that it was only right
to recognize and obey the great Huascar Inca as supreme lord. Upon
this reply, they despatched a courier in all haste to the King, who

588 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

received the news with much satisfaction. Meanwhile the ambassador
remained at King Atahualpa’s court in Quito to conclude the negotia-
tions and solve any problems which might arise in connection with
them. Huascar renewed the attribution of royalty given by his
father to Atahualpa, on condition that he come to Cuzco within a
certain time limit to pay him allegiance and sign a compact attesting his
loyalty and fidelity.

1581. Atahualpa, crafty one that he was, determined to carry out
his wicked scheme, and imparted it to the captains of his Council;
he manifested much pleasure in complying with his brother’s desires
in every respect, for the good will he bore him; but he again appealed
to His Majesty that in order to confer greater solemnity upon the
ceremony of the oath of allegiance and the commemorative honors
he wished to pay to the great Huayna Capac his father, he would
give him permission that his vassals might come with him from
every province of his state to celebrate the rites with him, according
to the usage and customs of Quito, and its provinces. Huascar
generously granted everything that Atahualpa requested, whereupon
both were pleased and satisfied—Huascar in his noble simplicity,
and Atahualpa because he was well started on his scheme to deprive
the innocent King of his Kingdom and his life, together with all the
Incas of his royal blood.

Atahualpa issued orders (for the greater assurance of the am-
bassador) that these provisions thus formulated should be made
public over all his Kingdom, notifying all the vassals in his provinces
that they should go to the imperial city of Cuzco to pay allegiance
to the great monarch Huascar their lord, and render the last honors
to his father; and on the other hand he directed his captains to be
provided with weapons, entrusting the secret commission to two
Militia Captains, Challcuchima and Quisquis, whom he appointed
Generals. He ordered them to proceed in scattered groups along the
road the better to disguise their purpose, and to unite near Cuzco
to attack Huascar and his court, catching him off guard ; for otherwise
Atahualpa did not have the forces necessary for open opposition
to his brother.

1582. This covert and disconnected army, on its way to the im-
prisonment and murder of their legitimate King and his courtiers,
was well and hospitably treated along the road by the King’s orders,
for Huascar had so enjoined upon all his provinces. But the Gov-
ernors and old officers of his in them, when they saw such crowds
passing, were disquieted, for they knew Atahualpa’s natural inclina-
tions and ambition; so they sent frequent warnings to the Inca for

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 589

him to be on his guard, for such crowds and so much material for
Atahualpa’s oath of allegiance and funeral tributes to his father were
neither good indications of loyalty, nor were they necessary.

At all these warnings and notifications of his officers and vassals,
the innocent and unsuspecting Huascar awoke to his danger, although
too late to prepare for defense against the evident menace of 30,000
veteran enemy soldiers, of long experience in warfare; for although
from his teeming city and the 100 villages adjacent to it, founded
by the great Mango Capac, he could get together 100,000 warriors
for its defense, yet in this unexpected crisis he had for the occasion
neither time, good counsel, nor warning. But since he could help
himself out from the city and these villages, he ordered all the prov-
inces of his empire warned and notified; but since they were so
remote, they could not come to his aid in time. Accordingly he set
out from the city without even 10,000 of those he might have gathered
together inside it, when he should have repaired to the fortress, where
he could have been safe until the arrival of aid from his provinces ;
he joined forces with 30,000 troops coming from the W., from the
Provinces of Condesuyos ; but through the lack of good counsel and
preparation, and through the keenness of his enemies, he was defeated
and captured by them, as will be detailed in the following chapter.

CuapTer XCIII (87) (Marg.: 90)

Of the Battle Waged against King Huascar by the Troops of the
Rebel Atahualpa, of His Imprisonment and Death, and the Fate of
Those of the Blood Royal.

1583. Good King Huascar Inca was afflicted and overwhelmed
with grief, unprepared as he was for the unexpected treachery of
Atahualpa; he could have taken refuge with his followers in the
asylum of his fortress, impregnable both because of its site and its
thick walls, and there in security he could have awaited the aid he
had ordered to come from all the provinces of his empire to overcome
and chastise the rebels and the treason of Atahualpa. But here also
he lacked good counsel, and knowing that the enemy had already
crossed the Apurimac bridge and were shamelessly laying waste the
country and killing its inhabitants, he set out from the city to the
W. along the Condesuyos Highway to join forces with some 30,000
troops who were coming to his assistance from those provinces.
But these were mostly raw recruits, tired out and off their guard,
after the haste in which they had marched to his aid. So Atahualpa’s
rebels, not to lose the favorable opportunity Fortune had laid in

590 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

their hands, and thinking there was danger in delay, when the large
forces Huascar was expecting should be assembled, set out with great
haste and alacrity in pursuit of the poor bewildered King; and 2
leagues W. of the city they unexpectedly overtook and attacked him,
just as he was joining forces with those troops of his who were
arriving tired out with the haste of their march. These were the
conditions under which they valiantly defended the just cause of their
King. The bloody battle lasted all day, with great losses on both
sides; but the rebels won and took cruel advantage of their victory
on the losers; poor King Huascar was captured and put under guard
by the rebels.

This battle took place at the end of the year 1528; some say that
it was only 1 league from the city, on the Quepaypa plain. Certain
it is that if King Huascar had retired with his followers to the
fortress to await aid from his vassals—for it was in view of similar
occasions and purposes that the kings of that empire had built it—
the traitors could not have carried out their evil purpose; but they
were 30,000 chosen soldiers, and experienced in warfare.

1584, With the great victory they had won, and the capture of
good King Huascar Inca, they were greatly puffed up and rejoiced ;
they sent word as quickly as possible to the rebel Atahualpa that they
had the King captive and in their power, and issued orders immedi-
ately that this should be made known and published all over the
empire, both for their warlike (aucana) renown and to cause the
armies which might come for aid from the provinces notified, to
be dissolved at the news of their victory and the imprisonment of
the King. In this way they thought that they could indulge more
at their ease the cruel tortures and murders they were about to
perpetrate upon those of the blood royal, and the other governors
and functionaries of the empire.

When the rebel Atahualpa had learned of the victory, he reflected
that he could not reign in accordance with the statutes and practice
of the Kings of Cuzco, for they had to be legitimate successors of
the blood royal by father and mother ; and since he was not, he could
only achieve the kingly station by murdering and exterminating all
those of the blood royal; it was likewise desirable and needful to
destroy the opposing forces. So he pretended that he wished to
restore the Kingdom to his brother Huascar; and in order to settle
upon the terms which should ensure tranquillity and wise administra-
tion on the part of both, so that in future there should be no
disturbance or disorder, he ordered that all over the empire they
should summon the Incas of the blood royal, the Governors, Captains,

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA ie

and other officials, to come to Cuzco for this purpose; and when
they came in from the nearer territories with a desire for peace and
tranquillity in the empire, and he got them all together, he ordered
them murdered in the most savage manner.

1585. The same course was followed by the instruments of his
cruelty, fit disciples of such a master, imitating their leader; they
murdered with savage and diverse torture as many as they could
find of the blood royal, without sparing a single person; they even
made martyrs of women and children, indulging the licentious ex-
cesses which war brings in its train and especially such a rebellious,
cruel, and treacherous war as this. This murderous and arbitrary
persecution lasted some 23 years; and they kept poor King Huascar
Inca prisoner, until at the behest of the savage rebel, who was likewise
prisoner already at the hands of the Spaniards, he ordered his
officers to kill him, having tried to use other pretexts with the
Spaniards, which did not avail him.

These contentions arose for the reasons given, but not without
Divine Providence, for thus that most opulent heathen monarchy
of the Incas, which had begun with the first Mango Capac in the
year 1031, and had lasted 500 years in its wealth and magnificence,
had seen those kings subdue so many tribes and civilize the savage
and untutored natives with their laws, in harmony with the Law of
Nature, in order that they might the more easily receive the Evan-
gelical Law, so similar to it. Accordingly Don Francisco Pizarro
entered that most opulent and far-flung empire in the year 1531
with only 160 Spaniards; he underwent and suffered unbelievable
hardships in his explorations, as the histories relate; and after
traveling over wide wastes and parched sandy deserts, he climbed
the sierra and came to the great valley of Cajamarca, where he had
information that the powerful insurgent King Atahualpa was staying
with all his court in company with all the lords and caciques of those
extensive realms, and with 70,000 soldiers, conducting a cruel and
very bloody war with the legitimate lord and king of that empire,
Huascar, whom he was already holding imprisoned, having captured
him by cunning treachery, and having cruelly put to death all those of

the blood royal, executed by his order and command [4 words
illegible].

CHAPTER XCIV [87] (91)

Describing the Imprisonment of Atahualpa, and Other Matters.
1586. It was when Atahualpa was flushed with these victories and
this magnificence and power in the year 1531, that he was met by

592 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Don Francisco Pizarro, who had only a few companions but was
more aided by Heaven’s favor and Divine order than by his own
strength. With his few Spaniards he attacked this proud rebellious
King, accompanied by the multitude of his subjects; he killed many
of them, captured him and put him in chains, and shut him up in
a strong room which the savage offered to cram full of gold if they
would free him—a room I saw many times when I was in that
Kingdom. And together with this offer and while still a captive of
the Spaniards, he decided to keep the imperial power and sent word
to kill the unfortunate natural lord of that country. This they carried
out by bringing him under guard into the jurisdiction of the Province
of Huamachuco, some 12 leagues before reaching Cajamarca, and
they drowned him in a river not far from Cajabamba, thus disposing
of him without burial. This took place at the close of the year 1531,
shortly after the rebel was captured; and that was the end of the
legitimate empire and monarchy of the Incas, at the completion of
500 years from the beginning of their reign.

1587. This dynasty began with the great Mango Capac, first King
of the Incas, in the year 1031. He reigned 40 years, and was suc-
ceeded by his son Sinchi Roca, who reigned 34. Lloque Yupangui,
son of Sinchi Roca, reigned 36 years; he was succeeded by his son
Mayta Capac, who reigned 30 years. Capac Yupangui, son of Mayta
Capac, reigned 4o years; Inca Roca, son of Capac Yupangui, 50;
Yahuar Huacac, son of Inca Roca, 30; Inca Viracocha, son of Yahuar
Huacac, 60; Pachacutec, son of Viracocha, 60; Inca Yupangui, son
of Pachacutec Yupangui, 30; Tupac Inca, son of Inca Yupangui, 40;
Huayna Capac, son of Tupac Inca, 42; his son was the unfortunate
Huascar, who began his reign in the year 1523, and died at the
order and command of the rebel Atahualpa his brother, in the manner
described, in the year 1531.

But God in His Divine Providence had so ordained it [there], in
order that His Holy Gospel might be preached in those regions so
far distant. He had permitted the discord between the two Kings
to grow; it had been sowed by the Father of Discord, who had been
so securely established over those blind peoples, and he had his
scratching for his pains, for he was deprived of them and cast out
at the introduction of the Holy Gospel. By natural means it would
have been impossible for so few Spaniards to win so great an empire,
without God’s having ordained it by the means described.

1588. The rebel King Atahualpa paid the penalty immediately and
without delay for the cruelties he had perpetrated on his brother and
his relatives; God sent messengers of justice (alguaciles), viz, the

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 593

Spaniards, who captured him in his home country, just as he had
his brother. (This was not without the command of Heaven, in
return for the cruel death he had ordered inflicted on those of the
blood royal, and many other servants of his King, and on the people
in the villages founded by the great Mango Capac in a 5-league circuit
round about the imperial city of Cuzco, who were servants of the
royal house). The Spaniards drew up a charge against him, and
he was sentenced to death; but he was fortunate in having become
a Christian and having received the water of Holy Baptism. Later
he was publicly beheaded in the plaza, in March 1532. This was
Divine justice, for in its execution these few Spaniards took him
captive when he had with him more than 70,000 warriors and also
many lords and caciques who accompanied him, and over 30,000
Indians in his service.

CHAPTER XCV [81, 82] (90)

Of Some of Those of the Blood Royal Who Escaped the Cruel
Tyranny of Atahualpa and His Ministers.

1589. Those of the blood royal who escaped the cruel murderous
tyranny dealt out by the rebel ministers of the cruel Atahualpa,
were three sons and two daughters of King Huayna Capac: the first
and eldest was Paullu, son of Huayna Capac and of Anascolque,
daughter of Guacapille Apu, chief lord of the Province of Huailas,
who was lawfully married according to the heathen rite to King
Huayna Capac, twelfth emperor of the Incas; Titu Inca and Mango
Capac, legitimate sons of Huayna Capac. Two Nustas escaped also—
the word means Princess Royal; they were likewise legitimate chil-
dren, and after their baptism were christened, the one Dofia Beatriz
Coya and the other Dofa Leonor. Dojfia Beatriz married a Spanish
gentleman by the name of Martin de Bustinza, who was a Govern-
ment Paymaster (Contador) in that Kingdom; they had three sons
named Bustinzas, and another named Juan Sierra de Leguizamon;
they have a few descendants.

1590. Dona Leonor, daughter of King Huayna Capac, was twice
married to Spaniards; her first husband was Juan Balsa, one of the
original pioneers; they had a son by the same name, and he has
descendants today. After the death of Juan Balsa, she married as
her second husband another gentleman by the name of Villacastin ;
they likewise left several children. Prince or Infante Hualpa Tupac,
legitimate brother of King Huayna Capac, also left a daughter,
mother of the Inca Garcilaso, who wrote the “Royal Commentaries”

39

594 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and finally, weighted down with years and leaving a reputation for
virtue and sanctity, died in the city of Cordova in Andalusia in the
year 161 (sic) and is buried in the Holy Church of that city.

1591. The three legitimate sons of King Huayna Capac, brothers
of King Huascar Inca, who escaped from the cruel tyranny of
Atahualpa and his minions, were Mango Capac Inca, Yupangui the
Elder, Titu Inca, and Paullu Tupac Inca. Paullu Inca was united
in lawful marriage with the Princess Royal Toto Usica, a descendant
of King Inca Roca, who founded the heathen University of Cuzco.
After the Gospel had entered that region, they were all baptized,
together with their mother Anascolque, wife of King Huayna Capac ;
he was christened Don Cristobal Paullu Inca, and was a very loyal
and important servant of His Majesty; she took the name of Dona
Catalina Toto Usica, and her mother, Doha Juana Anascolque.

1592. Paullu Tupac Inca Yupangui, after his baptism, was grateful
for such a great privilege, and manifested it not only before God,
being an excellent Christian, but to His Majesty, whom he served with
loyal fidelity on all occasions, aiding the Spaniards in their campaigns ;
the first time was with Commander Don Diego de Almagro to the
Kingdom of Chile in the year 1536; and although the High Priest
Villahuma deserted the expedition in order to return and stir up
the Indians of Peru to revolt, nevertheless good Don Cristobal Paullu
kept on in the Commander’s company and was of great service in
pacifying the Indians. And after his return from Chile and his
brother Mango Capac, to whom Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro
had given the King’s red tassel, had risen in rebellion, this Commander
Don Diego de Almagro, desiring that the Indians should quiet down
and raise the siege, conferred the red tassel and royal insignia upon
Don Cristébal Paullu Inca in the year 1537; and since he was son
of their King Huayna Capac, and natural lord of those realms, he
was obeyed and he succeeded in lifting the siege of the city. He
likewise won over many provinces of El Collao and Los Carangas,
which had risen against the Spaniards, and many other provinces in
- the Charcas, for he was always a good Christian after his baptism.

1593. For these and many other services, and because he was son
of King Huayna Capac, Marqués Pizarro gave him the income from
the Provinces of Atuncana, Auri, Mohina, Callanca, Manaries, Guajo-
bamba, Gualua, and many other villages, for the emperor to confirm
him in them. Later he aided Gov. Vaca de Castro in the civil wars,
Spanish and Indian; he established the shrine of San Cristobal,
which is at present a parish in the city of Cuzco, and brought many
of the Indian nobility and of his own blood over to the Faith; he

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was the first to be baptized, and countless Indians followed his
example. He suffered great hardships in the service of His Majesty ;
he was cited when with Gen. Diego Centeno in the battle of Huarina ;
and he went later as far as the Jauja Valley to receive President
Gasca, and he accompanied him constantly, until Gonzalo Pizarro
was captured and executed in Sacsahuana. It would have been im-
possible without his aid to achieve peace in that Kingdom; he had
great authority with the Indians and they respected him highly as
their King and natural lord. His wife Dofia Catalina Toto Usica and
he had a lawful son, Don Carlos Inca, who inherited all his income ;
he married Dofia Maria de Esquivel, a noble lady native of Trujillo;
they had as legitimate son Don Melchior Carlos Inca, whose god-
father was the Viceroy Don Francisco de Toledo; Dofia Maria Arias,
wife of Martin de Olmos, Knight of the Order of Santiago, was
his godmother. This Don Melchior Carlos Inca was a Knight of
the Order of Santiago; he died in Alcala de Henares in the year
1610, leaving as his sole heir Don Melchior Carlos Inca, who is at
present living as a resident of this court city in dire poverty; he is
the only remaining descendant in the direct male line, of those Inca
Kings of Peru.

CHAPTER XCVI [82, 83] (90)

Continuing the Story of Those of the Blood Royal Who Escaped,
and in Particular, of Kings Huascar Inca and Mango Capac His
Brother, from Whom the Marqués de Oropesa Is Descended.

1594. In addition, Mama Varcay, wife of Huascar Inca, rescued
from this tyrannous persecution her daughter Coya Cuxi Varcay,
who later married Sayre Tupac Inca, son of Mango Capac, to whom
Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro had given the royal tassel, since
as eldest son of Huayna Capac, he was next in line to Huascar Inca.
Sayre Tupac came down out of the mountains with his wife at the
instance of the Marqués de Cafiete, Viceroy of Peru, and they were
baptized in the year 1558. They had a daughter who later married
Martin Garcia de Loyola, and their daughter is the Marquesa de
Oropesa, who is great-granddaughter of Kings Huascar Inca and
Mango Capac. Titu Inca left no successors. Many others escaped
from that cruel tyranny; Inca Garcilaso deals with them more in
detail in his ““Royal Commentaries,” book I, folio 261.

1595. Many others of the blood royal escaped, and among them
another daughter of King Huayna Capac; after she became a Chris-
tian she took the name of Dofia Inés Huayllas Nusta, which means

596 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Princess Royal. Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro had a daughter by
her, who was called after his name Dofia Francisca Pizarro; she
married her uncle Hernando Pizarro, and they have left descendants.
(Marg.: Ancestors of Don Francisco Pizarro, who married the
sister of the Conde de Pufo en Rostro; their son is Don Juan
Pizarro, who petitions for remuneration for such great services.
The noble knight Fernando Pizarro had previously married, in
Medina del Campo, a noble lady of that city, who married Hernando
de Orellana; their son is Don Fernando Pizarro, Knight of the Order
of Calatrava, of the Council of Ordes. He is beneficiary of the suc-
cession (Mayorazgo) and all the services of Marqués Don Francisco
Pizarro and his grandfather Hernando Pizarro, who was of such
service in those Kingdoms in their conquests, in company with the
Marqués his brother; he suffered great hardships with remarkable
courage and aided [the Marqués his brother] in supporting the
burden of such great cares in the administration, expansion, and
preservation of such great realms as those conquered and won with
such courage at the expense of his own resources and those of his
friends.) They left successors ; after Hernando Pizarro’s death, this
lady married a gentleman named Martin de Ampuero, a resident of
Lima, by whom she had many children. Marqués Don Francisco
Pizarro had a son whom he called after his own name, by a daughter of
Atahualpa who took the name of Dona Angelina after her conversion
to Christianity. They took him and a son of Gonzalo Pizarro named
Don Hernando Pizarro, to Spain, but both died soon afterward.

1596. Mango Capac, besides his son Sayre Tupac, who was
christened Don Diego Sayre Tupac after his conversion, and was
the grandfather of the Marquesa de Oropesa, left a second son,
Prince Inga Tupac Amaru. After the death of his brother, who died
3 years after his baptism, in the year 1561, he had retired to the
rough mountains of Los Antis, which the Spaniards call Andes.
The Viceroy, Don Francisco de Toledo, imitating the Marqués de
Canete, tried to lure him out with promises he made him, just as
his brother Don Diego Sayre Tupac had come out; but Prince Tupac
Amaru declined for various reasons which influenced him and the
members of his council, considering what slight retribution his
brother had received, and also how short a time he had lived with
the Spaniards; so he decided not to come out.

1597. When the Viceroy who had so desired to lure this prince
out of the mountains and bring him to Cuzco, saw that he was not
accomplishing his purpose, he sent Martin Garcia de Loyola with
soldiers to make war upon him and bring him in by force. And

i ie on the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VvAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 597

he did bring him to Cuzco; but there the Viceroy, who had been a
great governor in every respect, failed to show Christian mercy ;
he was ill advised, brought the innocent prince to trial, and unjustly
sentenced him to death by decapitation; and although the innocent
prince begged for mercy and appealed from the decision, asking to
be sent to His Majesty in Spain, and was supported in this by all
the nobitity and the religious orders in that Kingdom, the Viceroy
would not grant it, and so after he had been baptized, he was beheaded,
to the deep regret of the Spaniards and the Indians at the Viceroy’s
great heartlessness. [And the noble knight Fernando Pizarro].

CoArTER ce Vill if) (Coa)

Of the Imperial City of Cuzco, and Its Grandeur and Majesty
since Its Occupation by the Spaniards.

1598. The imperial city of Cuzco, another Rome for those austral
regions, mother and home of so many kings and monarchs, won and
governed with her arms and laws all those Kingdoms and tribes
which for a period of 500 years she held subject to her heathen sway.
But at their end God Our Lord illumined her with the light of His
Holy Gospel, bringing her sons and subjects up out of the darkness
of heathendom, through the spirit and invincible courage of Marqués
Don Francisco Pizarro and his brothers and friends; thus he gave
God so many souls, and His Majesty so many and such opulent
Kingdoms.

Cuzco lies 140 leagues SW. of the city of Lima, at scant 15°S.
Its climate has been described ; it is abundantly supplied with cheap
and delicious food supplies—wheat, corn, potatoes, all sorts of Spanish
and native cereals, abundance of fruit, cattle, sheep, hogs, and llamas,
vineyards, sugar plantations with splendid mills producing large
amounts of sugar and excellent and delicious preserves, with greatly
appreciated “‘orejones” (dried rings) of peaches, the best in the
world, quite different from the old-time “orejones” of Cuzco—the
Incas by privilege of the kings of those heathen days, from whom
are descended the “orejones”’ who live in Cuzco today, knightly gentle-
men of acknowledged nobility.

1599. The city has a large population, with over 3,000 Spaniards,
many knights and nobles, encomenderos, descendants of the earliest
pioneers in that Kingdom, together with many other Spaniards of
honorable, distinguished, and middle class, and mestizos, sons of
Spaniards and Indian women, here called Montafieses, from among
whom have arisen very valiant and courageous warriors, servants of
His Majesty who suffer great trials at all crises—all these form a

598 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

very illustrious republic. In this imperial city there is a large Indian
population, nobility and commoners, comprising over 14,000 resi-
dents, not counting many others who come in from the adjoining
provinces to render service in the city, plus large numbers of Negro
slaves and mulattoes whom the city residents keep for their service
in the city and on their farms, for they have cattle ranches, sugar
mills, vineyards, and fields of wheat, corn, and other cereals and
crops, and troops of mules for traffic to Lima and other points.

1600. This imperial city has a very fine Cathedral, one of the best
in the Kingdom, with a Bishop and Prebendaries who reside there
and serve it, together with beneficiaries, curates, and other clerics
for the administration of the Holy Sacraments. There are very
sumptuous convents—the Dominican, where the Sun Temple was;
two Franciscan, the principal one in the center of the city, and
another, of Recollects, near the San Cristobal ridge ; Augustinian and
Mercedarian, all with many friars and courses in Arts and Theology.

There is a handsome Jesuit establishment with large revenues,
built where the royal palaces of Huayna Capac stood, known as,
Amaru Cancha. Here they teach Latin and the other sciences. There
are two excellent nunneries, one, Santa Clara, under the direction
of the Franciscan friars, and the other, Santa Catalina, a foundation
of nuns who came from Arequipa when they had that great earth-
quake in the year 1600.

Cuapter XCVIII [9 ] (95)

Continuing the Description of the Imperial City of Cuzco.

1601. This noble and imperial city contains besides the Cathedral,
seven parishes, whose curates administer the Holy Sacrament to
their parishioners. These are: the parish church of San Cristobal,
founded by King Paullu Inca when he was baptized with Queen
Dofia Catalina Toto Usica; that of San Sebastian; Santa Ana, San
Blas, Nuestra Sefiora de Belén, and Santiago, which is the parish
of the Indian silversmiths; and the Indian General Hospital is also
a parish, and one of the finest hospitals in all the Indies. It was
founded in the year 1555, at the time when Garcilaso de la Vega
was Corregidor of that imperial city. This hospital has large revenues
for the comfort and care of the poor sick Indians, with over 300 beds.
One of the reasons for its establishment, besides the great consolation
afforded the poor invalids, was that that gift represented some
recompense in satisfaction of the great debt of the Spaniards to the
Indians. The first day they began asking contributions for its estab-
lishment, the residents of the city gave 34,200 ducats, and within a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 599

few days the sum passed 100,000; so it has become very important,
and is notable for the pardons and indulgences granted by the Pontiffs
to those who aided by their contributions such a holy work, and to the
Indians who might die there.

1602. When they began building this splendid hospital, Capt.
Garcilaso de la Vega was the Corregidor of the imperial city; and
he put under the foundation stone a doubloon with the two faces
of the Catholic Monarchs, which was considered in those days a
rarity in Peru, for although they have the greatest wealth in the
world there, they have never minted gold coin, nor do they now.
Diego Maldonado the Rich, a native of the city of Salamanca, on
that same occasion put a silver bar under the foundation stone, and
so it commenced. Many other residents contributed with their gifts,
both in the imperial city and all over the Kingdom, and not only for
the building but for the comfort and care of the invalids, so that at
present that hospital is one of the finest charitable works in all the
Kingdom; and it not only confers distinction on this famous city,
but it is a parish church within it, administering the Holy Sacraments.

Furthermore there is another excellent hospital, where they care
for poor Spaniards, in distress and sick. It has an excellent college
with students in sash and gown, founded by the Bishop of that
imperial city, Don Antonio de Raya, so that impecunious sons of
that country might study the sciences. There are other seminaries,
churches, and shrines, all heartily supported by the charity and piety
of the residents of the city, Spaniards and natives.

1603. There are many shops of merchandise, both of residents
and of transients, who come there in numbers because it is a place
with active trade, and is the halfway point on the King’s Highway
between the city of Lima and all the upland cities and provinces—
Potosi, Charcas, Oruro, and the city of La Paz and the Provinces
of Collao; for these localities this imperial city exports much sugar,
preserves, and other luxuries, by troops of mules, and from its tribu-
tary country, quantities of coca, which large troops of llamas carry
out every day, besides much other merchandise.

In this imperial city there are many artisans of all crafts—some
of them Spaniards but the majority Indians, very skillful and accurate
in their professions: carpenters, tailors, shoemakers, etc., in large
corporations, and a great number of Indian silversmiths, after their
fashion, for they do not use hammers like ours, but bronze contrap-
tions shaped like dice, six- or eight-pointed, with which they shape
every piece of silver given them to work at, with great accuracy and
finesse, and the same with gold. These artisans have the parish of

600 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the Glorious Apostle Santiago, patron of Spain, as he was likewise
of this city which he favored with his presence, aiding the few
Spaniards to capture it when it was surrounded by a multitude of
heathen. This city has many fertile and prolific valleys in its neigh-
borhood, producing many kinds of native and Spanish fruit of high
quality. The Spanish residents have their farms and country places
in these valleys, with vineyards, sugar plantations, fruit orchards
and cattle, sheep, hog, and llama ranches, with many mules and
horses for their service ; in the rivers there is abundance of delicious
fish, and the region supplies all else that is necessary for [human] life.

CHAPTER XCIX [93] (96)

Continuing the Description of Other Provinces in This District.

1604. The Diocese has very wide jurisdiction over a large popula-
tion in extensive provinces, thickly settled and rich in cattle, mines,
and other valuable possessions. From N. to S. it runs from Uramarca
and the Province of Andahuailas, where it borders on the Diocese of
Guamanga, to the Province of Paucarcolla in the S., where it touches
the Diocese of La Paz, and where the jurisdictions of the Circuit
Courts of Lima and the Charcas meet; this is more than 130 leagues.
From E. to W., from the Andes and the Vilcabamba Mountains and
the eastern hot country provinces, where it borders on vast heathen
regions, to the Provinces of Aymaraes and Parinacochas on the
plains to the W., where it touches the Diocese of Arequipa, it covers
more than 100 leagues.

1605. In the jurisdiction of this Diocese there are 18 Corregi-
mientos ; 2 of them, that of the city of Cuzco and that of the Andes
of Paucartambo, are filled by appointment of His Majesty in con-
sultation with his Royal Council of the Indies; and in 16 the Viceroy
of Peru makes the appointment: Andahuailas, Abancay, Cotabambas,
Vilcabamba, Parinacochas, Aymaraes, Omasayos, Chumbivilcas,
Velille, Quispicanche, Yucay, Canas y Canches, Cabana y Cabanilla,
Taraco, Asillo and Azangaro, and Carabaya.

[Crap, Of Other Provinces, etc.]

The Abancay Valley, which is very fertile and prolific, is between
the Rio de Apurimac and the Province of Andahuailas ; the Viceroy
appoints a Corregidor for its wise administration and the dispensing
of justice.

1606. Seven leagues from the city of Cuzco to the E. begins the
Province of Los Andes of Paucartambo, with the villages of Challa-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 601

pampa, Pillcupata, Abisca and Tuno, where they raise and gather
the best and most highly valued coca in the Andes. To reach these
and other villages one goes down a 5-league grade which is terrifying
to look at; the road zigzags down it like a spiral, now going one
way, now the other, which is the only method possible. His Majesty
appoints a Corregidor for these Andes in consultation with His
Royal Council, for its wise administration and for the dispensing
of justice. All this country is abundantly supplied with meat, fish,
and fruit. The trees which produce coca are very handsome and
well shaped, with leaves almost like myrtle leaves; they grow leaves
the whole year through; in drying them they try to have the dry
leaf keep a deep green color, for that is much the better and brings
a higher price. They make up baskets of them, like those along the
river at Seville in which they carry apples, plums, and other fruit;
they load them on llamas to be freighted to Potosi, Oruro, and other
points, where they sell them to the merchants and traders for the
Indians, and make large profits.

1607. The Yucay Valley is 4 leagues ENE. of Cuzco—a delightful
spot with sweet, fresh breezes and delicious soft water; it has a
uniform climate, neither cold nor hot; there are no mosquitoes, flies,
or other annoying creatures. It lies between two sierras; on the E.
it has the Sierra Nevada, or Cordillera, which crosses or runs through
all that Kingdom; from its melting snows and the springs on its
flanks flow streams of crystal-clear water, with which they irrigate
the valley’s farms. They raise quantities of corn, wheat, and other
cereals; they have fine large sugar plantations and mills in which
they make quantities of excellent white sugar; there are many gar-
dens and orchards with all kinds of Spanish and native fruit, and they
raise very good vegetables. They have excellent vineyards, from
halfway down the sierra, which has large groves and forests, and
on the slopes near the valley, excellent pasturage, on which much
cattle graze; there are deer (ciervos), guanacos, and other wild
animals. The other sierra bounds the valley to the W.; next it runs
the large Rio de Yucay, with gentle current; it has abundance of
fish, and there are many egrets. This valley brings health and joy
to Cuzco residents; many of them have country places there, and
invalids go there to recuperate and convalesce. In the days of the
Incas it was their garden and Paradise; they had sumptuous build-
ings there, and it was their Aranjuez for their pleasures and recrea-
tion. In fine, I would say that this valley is a bit of Paradise, and
any exaggeration of its praise would fall short of the reality. The

602 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for it and its district, for its wise
government and the administration of justice.

1608. The Corregimiento of Quispicanche comes next to the
Yucay Valley, along the King’s Highway from Cuzco to Collao and
Potosi to the S. In this district lie the villages of Lluyna; Urcos,
which is 6 leagues from Cuzco; and farther on, the village of
Quiquijana, over a road made rugged by the mountains between
which the Rio de Yucay flows; this is crossed by a bridge like the
others. Next come the Indians of the Cavina tribe; all these villages
were founded by the great Mango Capac. The Viceroy appoints a
Corregidor for the administration of justice in this district.

1609. Next to the Corregimiento of Quispicanche and along the
same King’s Highway, comes the Province of Los Canches. These
are very reasonable Indians, unassuming and great workers; for
their mita (forced labor) they go to Potosi, which is 200 leagues.
They have large llama ranches, and wear native costume, like the
others, made of llama wool; they have good fields for their wheat,
corn, potatoes, and other cereals and root crops. Next comes the
Province of Los Canas (Marg.: Canas y Canches) comprising Atun
Cana, Chinquana, Oruro, Cacha, which is 16 leagues from Cuzco
and in which Inca Viracocha had a temple built to the god Viracocha,
called Ancocagua. In it there was a stone idol the height of a man,
with clothing almost like that of the Apostles, with a beard, and a
diadem on his head, and tied at his feet an animal with sharp claws ;
hence some maintained that it was the likeness of the Apostle St.
Bartholomew, who had gone through those regions preaching. The
. plains of the Collao begin at this province and continue for many
leagues. The Province of Los Canas contains vast level meadows
which they call savannas or pampas, and they have great numbers
of llama and sheep ranches on them, on account of their wide pas-
turage. This is very cold country and yields no crop but potatoes ;
they wear their native woolen costume and on their heads, a coiled
black scarf. The tombs of the ancients rise in the fields; they are
like turrets; they all have doors facing the sunrise, and contain the
bodies of those heathen, whole and dried up, and looking as if they
had just been laid there, whereas it is over 100 years since heathen-
dom disappeared. The reason is that the country is of an even cold
temperature and the air is dry and keen. This will be true of all the
other Collao and upland provinces; that was the way they buried
their dead in the days of their heathendom. The chief village in these
provinces, and the seat of the Corregidor whom the Viceroy appoints
for them, is called Tinta.

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 603

CHAPTER C [94] (97)

Of the Corregimiento of Cabana and Cabanilla, and Other Re-
markable Things.

1610. (Marg.: Of the district of the Circuit Court of the Charcas.)
Directly adjoining the Corregimiento and Province of Los Canas
on the Potosi King’s Highway, is the Corregimiento of Cabana and
Cabanilla, between that of Los Canas and the Province of Paucarcolla,
to the S. The Corregimiento contains 23 villages: Cabana, Cabanilla,
Vilque, Mafiaso, Orurillo, which is the seat of the Corregidor appointed
by the Viceroy for this province; Atuncolla, Juliaca and El Pucara
which is 4 leagues from Ayaviri and 45 from Cuzco. This word pucara
means stronghold; there were great, proud buildings there, with
many stone statues in the likeness of men and other creatures, very
neatly worked. It was at this pucara that the rebel Francisco Her-
nandez Jiron was defeated in the month of October of the year
1554; during his rebellious career, as is narrated by the histories
of those times, among the victories he won, the chief were that of
Chuquinga, in which he defeated Marshal Alvarado, and that in
the Villacuri sinks between Ica and Pisco, over Gen. Pablo de Meneses.

1611. This good fortune of the rebel general, which so puffed up
both him and his men, did not daunt the courage of the valiant loyal
captains and soldiers in His Majesty’s forces, or deter them from
pursuing him more than 200 leagues, suffering great trials, fatigues,
and hardships over those uninhabitable wastes, hot and parched with
thirst in the plains, and deep in snow and short of food in the sierra;
but they finally boxed him up in the Pucara—the stronghold of
E1 Collao—where he was vanquished with his rebel officers and men,
many of whom were executed ; and since his defeat gave the country
peace and quiet for a while, and [many] some of those who gave
good service were never explicitly mentioned, the historians not
having had full information about them or having made only vague
reference to them, I have made this brief digression in the desire
to leave their names immortalized as a reward for the valor and
faithfulness of their service, and to set them down here. Among
those who served well, were outstanding and distinguished them-
selves on all dangerous occasions, were Francisco Cajas de Espinosa
and Hernando de Cifontes, who had been Royal Paymaster (Conta-
dor) of the Province of Santa Marta. He was a native of Seville,
son of Pedro de Cifontes, Knight of the Order of Calatrava and
General of the Fleet which sailed from Seville for Santo Domingo
in or about 1532; he died in Santo Domingo and was buried there.

604 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

His son Hernando de Cifontes, after having served in Flanders until
his appointment as Cavalry Captain, and later as Royal Paymaster
(Contador) in Santa Marta, came down to the Kingdoms of Peru,
which at the moment were in a turmoil and convulsed by the rebellion
of Francisco Hernandez Jiron. Here he served His Majesty valiantly,
accompanying his forces against the rebel across the plains; and
as there was no certain information about the projects he was enter-
taining, Cifontes volunteered to go with Capt. Lope Martin in
company with Francisco Cajas de Espinosa and Joannes de Villareal
to spy out the enemy’s camp. On the road they met a troop of the
rebel army and fought with them; Capt. Lope Martin and Joannes
de Villareal were captured and beheaded by the rebels in their camp.
Francisco Cajas de Espinosa, although his horse fell on that occasion,
got away by good luck and alacrity; and Hernando de Cifontes,
thinking himself lost, dashed almost through the midst of the enemy
and concealed himself in the dense guarango thickets in the valley
along the Rio de Ica, near the village of San Juan, and so escaped
from this mortal danger.

1612. Thereafter he continued with His Majesty’s forces, following
the rebel across El Collao, until they besieged him in the Pucara,
where he fortified himself and defended himself valiantly for several
days, during which they had lively encounters with each other, in
which Capt. Hernando de Cifontes won great distinction. Finally
the rebel was overpowered and forced to take flight; then also he
followed him up, in company with Gen. Pablo de Meneses and other
officers, until, in the village of Yauri, he personally captured and
handed over some of the rebels. Three of those most deeply impli-
cated were executed; the others were turned over to this Hernando
de Cifontes, in view of the great confidence they had in him, until
he delivered them in the village of Quiquijana. Then he went ahead
in search and pursuit of the rebel until he was caught and executed.
And since it would appear that I have deviated from my chief pur-
pose, which is, to describe the provinces, in that I have just related
the deeds of these so valiant knights whose memories deserve to
be immortalized, let me say that the villages of Urcosuio and Ayaviri,
which belong to the Corregimiento and Province of Cabana and
Cabanilla, are the last within the jurisdiction of the Circuit Court
of Lima and where it touches that of the Circuit Court of the
Charcas ; the Dioceses of Cuzco and of La Paz meet at the Province
of Paucarcolla.

ee EE ON

“ell. aa Ss Mee ee

a a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 605

Cuapter CI [94] (98)

Continuing the Description of the Provinces of El Collao, Belonging
to the District of Cuzco; and of the Rich Gold Mines of Caravaya,
Which Belong to That of the Circuit Court of La Plata.

1613. From the village of Ayaviri in the Province of Cabana and
Cabanilla, another road starts more to the E. for Potosi and other
upland provinces. This is called the Omasuyo road and runs E. of
the great Lake of Titicaca; and at the village of Asillo the road
branches off to the E. which goes to the Province of Caravaya, where
there are very rich mines or washings of loose nugget gold of high
quality ; its chief villages are Sandia, Para, and others.

In this Province of Caravaya there are two Spanish towns estab-
lished, besides other mining camps. The chief town is San Juan
del Oro, which is the usual residence of the Corregidor appointed
by the Viceroy for the dispensing of justice, for wise administration,
and for supervision of the mines; the town of Santiago de Buena-
vista is 22 leagues farther E. The Viceroy appoints also in this
province a Paymaster (Contador) and a Treasurer, each with a
salary of 500 gold pesos, and an Alcalde Mayor for the mines with
a salary of 250 gold mine pesos. This province and the mines of
Caravaya are 30 leagues E. of El Collao, and over 60 from Cuzco.

1614. The way they get the gold in this province is to dig out for
the washing a large amount of that earth; they make large reservoirs
of water which they call cochas, and in connection with them, they
have some contraptions (artificios) set on mats where the water
is held back; and when they have everything ready, they open the
reservoir or cocha, and the water, rushing out with great force and
violence, carries away all the earth that has been dug up in front
of it, and the gold, being heavier, goes to the bottom. That is the
way they get the gold in this province, and it is of the highest and
finest quality to be found in the Indies.

Through this province, which is all paved with gold, runs the
Rio de Inambari, in which they wash and take out quantities of
alluvial 18-carat gold; the miners and the other people who live
there, to provide themselves with supplies and all else necessary for
the mines, go out to the village of Asillo, and by another road to
that of Huancané, which is 15 leagues S. of Asillo; in these two
villages they exchange and buy practically all the gold taken from
the Caravaya mines.

1615. On the W. this province is bounded by that of Asillo and
Azangaro, which is in the wide territory of El Collao. All the villages

606 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in this province, such as Asillo, Azangaro, Oruro, and others, are
very rich and large. In its district they raise great numbers of llamas
and Castilian merino sheep and cattle. No crops are grown in this
province except potatoes, for it is very cold all the time; but it is
abundantly supplied with everything necessary for human life through
having hot valleys close at hand, from which they bring everything
up to it. The Indians wear their native woolen costume, and the
Indian women likewise, except that on their heads they wear as a
covering a black woolen bonnet which they call a panta; this is over
half a vara high and terminates in a sort of a crescent; that is the
usual headdress of all the Indian women in FE] Collao. In this province
the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for its satisfactory government
and the administration of justice.

To one side of this province, before reaching Paucarcolla, there
is another, whose villages are Taraco, Pusi, Saman, and others;
their climate is the same at that just described ; they have large Ilama
and sheep ranches. The Viceroy appoints a Corregidor here for the
dispensing of justice and for its wise administration.

Book V

Of the District of the Circuit Court of the Charcas, With a
Description of All Its Provinces; the Products of the Soil, Native
and Spanish; the Rich Mines of Potosi, etc.; the Cattle Ranches;
Its Cities and Towns and Their Founding; the Governorships and
Corregimientos to Which His Majesty Makes Appointments in Con-
sultation with the Royal Council of the Indies, together with the
Prelacies, Dignities, and Prebends; the Corregimientos in the Ap-
pointment of the Viceroy of Peru; and the Other Features Worthy
of Mention.

CHAPTER I

Of the Provinces of Chucuito and Paucarcolla of the District of
the Diocese of La Paz.

1616. The Province of San Francisco de Paucarcolla is bounded
by the villages of Ayaviri and Urcosuio of the Province of Cabana
and Cabanilla, at which point the Circuit Courts of the Charcas and
Lima meet. This province has nine villages: San Francisco de
Paucarcolla, which is 5 leagues from Chucuito; San Francisco de
Tillaca; Puno; Icho; and Coata, all of whose residents are Uros
Indians ; they spin llama wool from which they make such a quantity
of sacks (costales) which people come and buy for freighting on
llamas, that merely for this commerce in sacks, this village of Coata
takes in every year Over 200,000 pesos, which is great commerce and
riches. The other remaining villages in this province are Capachica,
Vilque, Moho, and Huancané, all well off because of their large
flocks of llamas and sheep. Between this province and that of
Chucuito there are some rich silver mines which fall within the
jurisdiction of this province, although the Corregidores appointed
by the Viceroy for their wise government and for the dispensing of
justice, have had certain controversies and lawsuits over the
jurisdiction.

1617. The Province of Chucuito comes right next to that of Paucar-
colla, which bounds it to the N. This Province of Chucuito is the
leading one in El Collao. It is cold country, with abundant pasturage
for cattle. It has all its villages on the banks of the great Lake
Titicaca, commonly called Lake Chucuito. This is over 80 leagues
long and on every side its banks harbor wide provinces; it can be

607

608 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

called a sea with full propriety, for although this great lake is far
inland, it is so deep that it measures 70 or 80 fathoms in depth,
or more, and it has many islands which usually are covered with
birds which go off fishing and live on the fish in the lake.

1618. On the principal island in this lake, which has over 2 leagues
circuit, there was a famous and very wealthy Temple of the Sun,
for those heathen said that this was where their first King, Mango
Capac, started out to found the great city of Cuzco and win over
all those tribes in such a vast territory to a civilized and reasonable
way of life; for the Incas said that they were children of the Sun,
and so they consecrated that spot to him and built him that sumptuous
temple which was the greatest sanctuary which they had in those
provinces.

Many large rivers enter this great lake, and only one issues from it;
this is its outlet to the S. and forms another large lake in the Province
of Paria, which is more than 30 leagues in circumference; no river
or other outlet from this has ever been discovered or recognized.

1619. The chief village on the great Lake of Titicaca is Chucuito,
the residence of the Governor appointed by His Majesty in consul-
tation with the Supreme Council. From Chucuito to the village of
Acora it is 2 leagues; from this to lave, 4; from Ilave to Juli, 5.
At Juli the Jesuit Fathers have a sumptuous convent and church,
and keep the Indians well catechized and instructed. From Juli to
the village of Pomata, which is a Dominican priorate, it is 2 leagues ;
from there to Sepita, 7 leagues, and to the Outlet (Desaguadero),
2 more; that is the last village in the Province and State of Chucuito.
This is thickly settled, has a cold climate, and is rich in cattle. This
whole province and those adjoining consist of wide plains and pas-
tures without a single tree in them, because of the constant cold
weather there. This Province of Chucuito, besides the above, pos-
sesses in the west on the plains part of the rich Moquegua Valley,
about 40 leagues away; the Governor appoints a deputy there.

1620. The large river which issues from the great Lake of Chucuito
is the size of the Guadalquivir at Cordova, and is called the Desa-
guadero (Outlet). On its banks stands the last village in the State,
called Desaguadero and peopled by Uros Indians, very savage and
uncivilized. At this point there is a bridge (paga; probably for paja,
i.e., straw bridge) over this same river made of many bundles of
icho, reeds, oats, and cattails, which in that country they call totora;
horses, mules, llamas, and everybody cross by it, and it certainly
is a mysterious thing that with material as light as straw and so
little foundation, since it lies upon the water, one can cross with

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 609

such security. The one who originated this bridge was Capac
Yupangui, fifth King of Cuzco, in the year 1160. Its groundwork
consists of four cables made of rushes, cattails, and other straw;
each is as thick as a man’s thigh; two are fastened and secured on
one bank of the river and thrown across the stream; each will be
over 150 paces long, for that is the width of the river. They tie them
tight on the other bank and then strew large thick bundles of these
rushes, cattails, and icho, which they fasten and tie to the cables,
so that they will unite and form one body. On this foundation they
set the other two cables and fasten them to the thick bundles and
the other cables; then they lay great quantities of small sheaves of
these reeds and icho on them and interweave them one with another
so that several form a mat, and in this way it is made quite safe.
It is over a yard and a half thick, 12 to 14 feet wide, and some
150 paces long, which is the width of the river. Every 6 months
the Indians of the region whose business it is, renew it.

CuHaPTer II

Of the Province of Omasuyo and the Holy Relics Preserved There.

1621. On the other side of the lake to the E. as one goes toward
Potosi, next the Province of Asillo comes the extensive Province
of Omasuyos, in which the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for its
satisfactory administration. Its chief village is Omasuyo; then come
Los Ancoraynes, Huacho, and Tiahuanaco, which contained those
proud and magnificent buildings. Near the village there is a ridge
or artificial hill, where they began their construction ; beside it stand
two figures of remarkable size and elaborately carved, with broad
vestments like those in the Old Testament, and with a sort of diadem
on their heads; these must have been idols. Near these figures there
was a massive and very ancient wall and other constructions built
of stone blocks of remarkable size and carved in different ways.
They say that the Inca Kings of Cuzco got their inspiration from
these ancient buildings for the construction of their proud buildings,
walls, and fortress in Cuzco, for in this latter there are stone blocks
over 38 feet long, 18 broad, and 6 thick. The Indians have a tra-
dition that these buildings date from many centuries before the
Incas reigned. Here in Tiahuanaco there are other noteworthy
memorials of those days, but I forbear writing of them in order to
tell what there is today in this Province of Omasuyo.

1622. The village of Carabuco is very famous in that Kingdom
for that miraculous Cross, which the Indians considered to date

40

610 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

from many ages past. They said that they had received a tradition
from their ancestors that a man of divine origin, child of the Sun,
had brought or set it on that spot. That might be, according to
appearances; and the Indians of ancient days reckoned by their
quipos, which is their mode of reckoning, that some one of the Holy
Apostles had passed through there preaching the Holy Gospel to
the natives of those regions, and had left it there for a sign as testi-
monial and memento; and as these tribes had no written language,
nor any histories but their quipos, with the long passage of time
the certainty or actual facts of the event, have been forgotten. There
is much that might be written about this, did it not lead us from our
purpose; let it suffice, for the greater assurance and veneration of
such a sainted relic, to mention the miracles which God has wrought
by its means among these new Christians to confirm them the more in
our Holy Faith.

1623. The village of Copacabana also belongs in this fortunate
province ; here stands that mysterious and miraculous image of Our
Lady of Copacaba (sic), marvelous sanctuary of that country. Chance
was, as the Indians of that province relate, that in that village lived
an Indian sculptor, a good and sincere Christian ; among other images
he had made this miraculous image of Our Lady, and took it along
with others, to sell his handiwork at some fairs, which they call gatu
there. But whether this image was not well made, or through Divine
Providence and the just judgments of God, he found nobody to
buy it—His Divine Majesty having ordained for His greater glory
and that of His Most Holy Mother, that that most holy image should
remain in its own place, where it was made, in order to work miracles
through it for the conversion of those tender Christians, to be a
comfort and recourse for them in all their afflictions and necessities,
and that the sight of the mercies which He showed them by its means,
should finally abolish the idolatries which still prevailed among some
of them.

The good Indian, seeing that he could not sell the image, product
of his handiwork, in the numerous places where he had taken it,
brought it back to his village; and reflecting on certain cares which
were besetting him, he resolved to place it in the church in his village,
and so told Her, saying: “Mother of God, I am only a poor Indian ;
I cannot accomplish anything more; You are powerful, according
to what the Fathers and Christians tell us, and can make Yourself
very lovely and beautiful, as You are in Heaven; may God Your
Son and Our Lord work in this country with us through You many
miracles and mercies.” And when he had finished this conversation

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 611

with the most holy image, he placed it with all due reverence in his
village church, which at that time was very poor, and lighted a small
lamp before it, praying that She would comfort him and his through
Her intercession.

1624. God, who is admirable in his Saints, wished to demonstrate
it, and did in this most holy image; though placed in humble sur-
roundings in this church, its lamp began overflowing with oil just
when there was need of it for illumination, because they had none
then in that region. With that beginning, devotion to the image
started to grow and spread through all the region; the Indians with
lively faith had recourse to it in all their necessities ; and God showed
His accustomed mercies to them by the means of this holy image,
working many miracles to the good of the Indians, giving them
health in their illnesses, healing the halt and the maimed, giving
sight to the blind and life to the dead.

In fact, so lavish were its boons that the Indians, who soon realized
its charities, and that they were not given with niggard hand or
grudgingly, when their llamas were sick, and it might be some of
them already dead, used to bring them in before the most holy image
and put them there, saying: “Lady, I have no other wealth or
strength with which I might serve You, but these; give them back
to me, so that I may better serve You.” And God, who makes use
of many means for the calling of His own, suiting them to each
one’s capacities, would heal and revive them through the means of
His Most Holy Mother; for besides His own glory, and the calling
of the heathen, He desires that His Mother be reverenced and re-
spected on earth. Thus faith was established in those new Christians ;
and since many books have been written about the countless miracles
which God Our Lord has wrought through the intercession of His
Most Holy Mother, I shall mention only one, which happened to
a Spaniard named N. Escoto ; this was of the following general nature.

1625. This Escoto had a few llamas, with which he tried to make
a living; and when he was crossing the Outlet, he saw almost all
his stock lost and drowned. In this trial and tribulation he called
upon the name of this most holy image, begging its favor in this
affliction; and he promised that if it would free him from it, he
would share all the profits he should make from them, with Her
Most Holy [Divine] Majesty for the decoration of Her church and
that that the Jesuits had started building. God Our Lord who harkens
to the cries of His own in order to better demonstrate His marvels,
and for the exalting of His Most Holy Name through the intercession
of His Most Holy Mother, freed this devout Spaniard from his

612 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

affliction, and brought his flocks from ruin to salvation. The grateful
and fortunate fellow at the end of his trip, realizing the benefits
he had received, at the same time acknowledged the profits he had
made in such good company, and thus in his gratitude he started
the manufacture of a lamp for Her costing 100 silver marks, and as
things continued to go well with him, thanks to his excellent judg-
ment and energy, he has made a lamp for Her which is the largest
yet known in Christendom; it is made of over 1,500 silver marks,
and since it is so large and there is nothing that can hold it up
if one tries to carry it, it is set upon pillars; it is the greatest marvel
of its kind in the world; it is of such great size that 16 men can
easily find room within it. Its chain links are as thick as a man’s
wrist ; round about it are as many candlesticks to hold tapers as the
year has days. They assured me that it cost over 25,000 pesos; and
I conclude by saying that there is no human tongue which can count
the miracles which God Our Lord has wrought and works through
the medium of this blessed image, nor any pen, swift though it be,
that could write them out. Where this most holy image stands, is
the convent of the Glorious Patriarch and Doctor of the Church
St. Augustine.

The village of Huaqui is the last in this province; the Incas had
royal apartments and palaces there. At this point this province and
Corregimiento is bounded to the ESE. by the Chuquiago Valley,
in which the city of La Paz is built; to the S., by the Corregimiento
of Caracollo, and Sicasica, which is the end of the Province of
El Collao.

CHAPTER III

Of the City of Nuestra Sefiora de La Paz, and Other Provinces
in Its District. [Six words illegible. |

1626. From the village of Tiahuanaco it is 7 leagues to that of
Viacha, along the King’s Highway for Potosi, leaving on the right
many villages in the Province of Los Pacajes and Caracollo. From
Viacha one leaves the Highway to the right and reaches the village
of La Laja; from there it is a short day’s journey to the Chuquiago
Valley. After Licentiate Pedro de la Gasca had defeated Gonzalo
Pizarro in the battle of Xaquixaguana or Sacsahuana and had dealt
out justice to him and his followers, as is amply narrated in the
histories, he sent out Capt. Alonso de Mendoza with commission
and authority of President Gasca; and in the year 1549 in the name
of the Emperor he founded in the Chuquiapo Valley the city of

|

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 613

Nuestra Sefiora de La Paz, known as Pueblo Nuevo. It is in 17° S.,
100 leagues to the S. of the imperial city of Cuzco, and 100 again to
the N. of the city of La Plata. The city has a marvelous springlike
climate with clear skies and air, and very delicious water. Nearby is
a lofty snow-clad range, in which it is stated that the Indians, at
the time the Spaniards came in, hid everything that was contained
in the rich Sun Temple and in their palaces in this valley ; the whole
country is rich in gold and in the early days they took a great deal
out, the ore there being high grade.

1627. The city will contain over 200 Spanish residents, not counting
the service rabble. It has a Cathedral with a Bishop and Prebendaries
who reside there and serve it. This Diocese was carved out of the
Archbishopric of the Charcas and the Diocese of Cuzco in the year
1610, in the days of the Marqués de Montesclaros ; their jurisdiction
was too large, and a Bishop was necessary in this city, for a new
country has need of new remedies. It has Dominican, Franciscan,
Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, a hospital for the
care of the indigent sick, and other churches and shrines. His
Majesty, in consultation with his Royal Council, appoints a Corregidor
for the city, and Officials of the Royal Patrimony. This valley grows
abundance of Spanish and native products—melons, sweet potatoes,
and sugarcane, from which they make sugar and excellent preserves.
Near the city is the Indian village of Oyune and others.

1628. In the district of this city and Diocese there are six Corregi-
mientos and one State; two of them, the State of Chucuito and the
Corregimiento for the Spaniards of the city of La Paz, are in the
appointment of His Majesty in consultation with the Royal Council
of the Indies ; five—Paucarcolla, Omasuyo, Larecaja, Caracollo, and
Sicasica, and that of Los Pacajes—are in the appointment of the
Viceroy of Peru. All these provinces are thickly populated, and
have large flocks of llamas and sheep. The principal foodstuff grown
in the Provinces of El Collao is potatoes, which are like ground
truffles; the Indians make chuno out of them by exposing them to
the frost so that they freeze and dry and then they make a kind of
porridge (mazamorra) out of them, which is highly thought of in
that Kingdom and is a much-prized food. In the valleys within its
district they raise quantities of corn and some wheat; there are also
a few vineyards.

1629. The Province and Corregimiento of Larecaja has the Chu-
quiabo Valley at its back, and on the E., the Yungas of Coroico,
hot country with sugar plantations and presses, where they make
quantities of sugar, syrup, and very good preserves. On that side

614 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

it is bounded by Los Chunchos. This Province of Larecaja is very
rough country, with many villages; the village of Ambana is on
one mountainside, and opposite on another is that of Chuma; it is
4 leagues journey from one to the other, but people’s voices in one
village can be heard in the other, and they can talk across ; in between
the two villages is a tiny valley down in the depths; this is called
Copani; they have their farms and gardens there, with abundance
of native and Spanish fruit; but to reach this valley from either
village they have to go down a very steep slope for 2 leagues.

1630. Next comes Sangavan, with the villages of Itata and Moco-
moco, and farther E., the Pelechuco Valley, where the Indians of
the Province of Omasuyo have their gardens and farms with fruit
and delicacies, which they take out to their province. In it they raise
some wheat and plenty of corn, which is the source of supply for
most of the provinces of El Collao, since it is so abundant and rich.
It has many other villages, and 14 leagues to the E., the valley and
village of Camata, which is its easternmost, and the boundary with
the mountains and Provinces of Los Chunchos. In this Camata
Valley they get an excellent crop of coca. The village and Indians
are rich; they are the encomienda of Pedro Alonso Carrasco. The
climate is hot. All the houses in Camata are two stories high; at
night they sleep upstairs, but live downstairs in the daytime. The
country is thickly wooded and forested, with tigers, lions, tapirs,
and other savage animals. One enters this Province of Larecaja
by the villages of Huacho or Carabuco of Omasuyo Province; it has
a Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy.

1631. The Province and Corregimiento of Caracollo and Sicasica
is bounded on the N. by the Province of Omasuyo. It contains the
villages of Viacha, Ayo Ayo, where there were royal apartments of
the Incas, and Sicasica, from which it is 11 leagues to Caracollo.
This is built on the wide prairies and plains in which the Province
of El Collao terminates. There is also the village of Calamarca, and
others. This is all very cold country, like that described, and with
wide pastures with flocks and herds, and on the plains, numbers of
turrets, which are the tombs of the ancients, with their doors toward
the sunrise. In this province there are fine, deep valleys with de-
lightful climate, where there are vineyards and where they get
quantities of wine, corn, wheat, and Spanish and native fruit. The
Viceroy appoints a Corregidor here for its satisfactory government.
This is bounded on the W. by the Province of Los Pacajes, on the
S. by that of Paria and Oruro, and to the ESE. by the Cochabamba
Valley.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 615

1632. Adjoining the preceding is the Province of Los Pacajes,
which is one of the best in Peru, with large llama ranches, among
the best in that Kingdom. It has large villages, such as Huarina,
where Gonzalo Pizarro gave battle to Diego Centeno, and through
the skill of his Militia Captain Carvajal defeated and overthrew
him; Cayaviri, Mallama, and, near the heights of Tacna and Arica,
the villages of Calacoto, Caquingora, Callapa, Julioma, Curaguara,
and others. At this point it is bounded on the W. by the plains and
valleys of Locumba, Sama, and Tacna of the Diocese of Arequipa;
oni the S:, by the Province of Los Carangas; to the ESE., by ‘the
Provinces of Paria, the Cochabamba Valley, and others. It is all
cold country like the preceding; and besides the tame cattle, the
frozen deserts are traversed by great troops of guanacos, vicufias
and ostriches, vizcachas, and other animals and birds. They get corn
and other foodstuffs from the hot valleys and the plains. The province
is very rich; like the others, it contains great tombs of the ancients,
and since the country is usually cold and the winds keen and pure,
the bodies are preserved without decay. The Viceroy appoints a
Corregidor in this province for its wise government and the dispensing
of justice. This is what is comprised within the district of the Diocese
of La Paz; it borders on the Archbishopric of the Charcas.

CHAPTER IV

Of the Province of Paria in the District of the Archdiocese of the
Charcas.

1633. The Province of Paria adjoins those just described, of Los
Pacajes and Calacoto. It is flat country with a few low ridges, and
contains in its district large villages, like Caponota, Toledo, Challa-
collo, Aullagas and others not necessary to enumerate. It contains
large ranches of llamas, sheep, and swine, in such quantities that
the Indian communities in the villages of this province have an
Administrator appointed by the Viceroy at an excellent salary, as
he does in other provinces below Lima, Conchucos, and others, and
in the territory of Quito, woolen-mill inspectors; there are many
such positions filled by the Viceroy.

1634, In this Province of Paria on the plains along the banks of
the large river, Outlet (Desaguadero) of the great Lake of Chucuito,
and on other smaller ones connected with it, there are great flocks
and ranches of llamas and sheep which they water there. On what
they call the Paria bank they make large quantities of sheep’s-milk
cheeses, which are the best in all the Kingdom; these are exported,

616 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

as are also fine wool fleeces, and bring in a great deal of money;
they go to Oruro, Potosi, Lima, and all over the Kingdom. This
province contains the other lake, which lies below that of Chucuito,
and is called the Lake of Paria or Aullagas. There is no known
outlet to this lake, but it is considered certain that some springs
which give rise to the rivers flowing into the valleys of Tarapaca
and Pica, are derived from this lake.

1635. The houses in this province and the great majority of those
in the Indian villages in the sierra and the cold country, are round
and vaulted on account of the cold, as I wrote in connection with
the Province of Chinchacocha. On all the plains, besides domesticated
cattle there is abundance of wild animals, such as guanacos, vicufias,
ostriches, etc.; there are many turrets, which are the tombs of the
ancients, as I have described elsewhere. The village of Toledo in
this province is an Augustinian curacy, and that of Challacollo, which
is across the Outlet River (Rio del Desaguadero), 3 leagues before
the town of Oruro called San Felipe de Austria. This village of
Challacollo is very large and rich. The Indians here belong to the
Uros tribe ; they are very primitive and brutish ; before the Spaniards
took over that country, they roamed like savages without any settled
habitation over those plains, rivers, and the Lake of Paria, living on
the roots of what they call totora, a species of cattail; the Spaniards
settled them in villages, but because they have so little sense and
discipline, they have no individual private property. Their community
is very rich; it owns large ranches of all kinds of stock, and in the
Cochabamba Valley, large farms and fields of corn, wheat, and
potatoes; these establishments are managed by the Prior of the
Augustinian convent in that village, and the produce is all stored in
the convent and they give them whatever is necessary, for if they
did not treat them in this manner, I understand this tribe would
perish, since they cannot govern themselves or keep or preserve a
single thing; in this way they have a superfluity, and the convent
likewise. They have large herds of swine which pasture along the
banks of the lake on its roots and fish; they make much bacon and
ham from them, and export it to Oruro and other points; and they
also take out of the lake large quantities of fish which they sell in
that same town.

This village has an excellent hospital belonging to the community,
for the care of the sick, with a Spanish surgeon at a very good salary
to look out for them. In this hospital they have many luxuries and
all necessities for the sick; but they are so unintelligent that if asked
if they are men, they reply: “No, Uros.” This brief account must

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 617

suffice for this province, which has a Corregidor appointed by the
Viceroy to administer justice, etc.

CHAPTER V

Of the Silver-mining Town San Felipe de Austria.

1636. In this Province of Paria, mines were discovered, and at
the news of their richness, miners flocked in from many quarters to
work them. On account of this wealth in the year 1607 they estab-
lished the town of San Felipe de Austria, called in the language of
that country Oruro. It lies on a level prairie 2 leagues from the
tombs near the Pié de Gallo ridge, which has provided very rich
veins of silver, and still does. Nearby are the very rich mines of the
San Cristébal range and others, from which great wealth has been
derived, and still is, abundantly, in spite of their not having had
mita (forced labor) Indians, but only mingados, i.e., hired ones;
in fact, every Indian mine laborer (barretero) earns 12 pesos every
week, and night workers get double. At the news of this bonanza
so many Spanish miners and traders flocked in from every side in
a short time that a very large and extensive community and settlement
was constituted, with more than 1,000 Spaniards, and the Indians
have built up large settlements in the suburbs of the town, which
form two excellent dotrinas or curacies. These are the Indians who
work in the mines; they are all well off in consequence of the high
wages they get; and although in the year 1618 Prince de Esquilache
gave these mines 500 Indians so that they might be exploited with
better results, they were induced to leave through the objection made
by Potosi, 40 leagues away, that since Potosi was more distant and
remote, they would have profited more if the Indians had been given
to them (?). The wealth that has been derived, and still is, from
these low ranges, is enormous, for the ore is very rich and easy to
handle. The town has some 20 mills to grind the ore, among the
tombs which are 2 leagues away near the Potosi King’s Highway ;
there are others at Sorasora and on the bank of the Lake of Paria;
they bring the ore there on llamas, of which there are great numbers.
They use the mercury process, although there are some smelting
furnaces.

1637. The town is built on a plain near the Pié de Gallo ridge.
It has a parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, Merce-
darian, and Jesuit convents, and an excellent hospital for the care
of the indigent sick, kept by Brethren of San Juan de Dids. It has
two other parishes of Indians who settled here at the report of the

618 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

richness of the mines. It has a Corregidor and Officials of the Royal
Patrimony appointed by His Majesty in consultation with the Royal
Council of the Indies. Twelve leagues away within its district it has
the old mines of Berenguela, from which much wealth has been
derived, and those of Colquiri recently discovered, which give promise
of great richness.

1638. The town has a cold climate. It is very well supplied with
provisions; from Arica via Tacna they import quantities of jugs of
wine, and Spanish goods come up the Potosi King’s Highway as far
as Choroma, where the road for this town branches off to the left
from the Potosi highway and proceeds to Corquemarca, which is
the chief village in the Province of Los Carangas. From there one
goes to Toledo, a village in the Province of Paria, and from Toledo
to Challacollo, 7 leagues, crossing the Outlet River (Desaguadero)
by boat. There is abundance of meat; an excellent merino sheep
sells for 12 reals; they have Paria and Cochabamba hams, the best
there are. The plaza in this town is very well supplied with bread,
meat, fish, and fruit; there are many merchants’ shops. The houses
in the town are thatched with the straw they call icho—I do not know
whether to call it the custom of the country or because they lack
wood, for there is not a tree in all this country, it is so cold; they
have to cart all their wood in, as they do flour and corn meal, which
they call vilcaparo and out of which they make the Indian beverage
called chicha; this provides a large business, and so does the coca
which they import from the Andes, and the pepper called uchu which
they bring up from the Locumba and Sama Valleys. This brief
account must suffice, to enable us to describe the Cochabamba Valley,
which is 30 leagues E. of this town.

CHAPTER VI

Of the Famous Cochabamba Valley and Its District.

1639. In the Cochabamba Valley, which is over 5 leagues long and
24 wide, the town of Oropesa was founded in the year 1571, in the
days of Don Francisco de Toledo, the same year in which they began
to use the quicksilver process on the silver ore at Potosi. This town
of Oropesa is called Camata in the Indian tongue, and is the capital
of this valley. It will have 300 Spanish residents and many Indians,
living in this town and on its farms scattered over all the valley;
among the residents many are of noble descent, from pioneers or
knights. It has an excellent parish church with two curates, Domini-
can, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Mercedarian convents, and a very

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WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 619

wealthy hospital run by the Brethren of San Juan de Dids. The
Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for this town and valley for the
administration of justice. There are other villages in the valley,
with farms and gardens and their homes on them, where they have
Negroes and Yanacona Indians, with yokes of oxen for the plowing
and cultivation. They raise quantities of corn, wheat, and other
Spanish and native cereals; it is irrigated by channels running from
the river. Their chief crop is in August, the coldest period in that
country, although the climate is temperate. They harvest such quan-
tities of wheat, corn, etc., that this valley supplies the mines of Potosi
and Oruro, which is 30 leagues away, all the adjoining provinces
and Chuquiabo; there is such abundance that merely the wheat and
corn crops bring in to this valley from the points mentioned above,
over a million 8-real pesos every year.

1640. The farms in this valley under cultivation are very large,
the soil being good and rich; many of them are worth 40,000, 50,000,
or even 80,000 pesos. Spanish fruit does well—large and small
peaches, apples, pippins, pears, quinces, figs; they have excellent
strawberries and other native fruit, and all sorts of Spanish vegetables.
This valley is bounded to the E. by the very rough sierras and moun-
tain peaks of the Andes, in which live countless heathen tribes. There
are in this valley three other fine villages: Santiago del Pago, Sipesipe
and Tiquipaya, where there are excellent salubrious hot springs in
which many invalids take the baths to recover their health.

1641. Two leagues from this valley is that of Sacaba, equally
temperate and fertile, and producing large amounts of corn and
wheat. Five leagues farther is the Cliza Valley, which is full of
farms, wheat and corn fields, and vineyards. These both belong to
the Corregimiento of Cochabamba. In that quarter it is bounded
by the Pocona Valley, which is in the district of the Diocese and
Corregimiento of Misque.

1642. W. of Cochabamba on the Oruro highway lies the village
of Capinota, 10 leagues from Cochabamba, but in its district. It is
a large village with many Indians, and an Augustinian curacy; it
has a fine vineyard, from which they make quantities of wine. The
Padre in this curacy gives the Lima Augustinian convent 4,000 pesos
every year to help in the building operations of the convent and
college. Leaving Capinota on the way to Oruro, one enters imme-
diately a ravine threaded by the river with its endless windings ; here
stand the mills which they call Arque, where they grind all the
wheat and corn of the district of Cochabamba; they call the corn
meal vilcaparo. Next come the Berenguela mines, which belong in

620 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the jurisdiction of Oruro; they are 12 leagues farther on. This
canyon which starts at Cochabamba, extends nearly to Oruro, which
is its eastern bound.

CHAPTER VII

Of the Province of Los Carangas, the Town of Porco and the
Pilaya and Paspaya Valleys.

1648. The Province of Los Carangas is one of the largest and
finest in Peru; it comes next to the Province of Paria. It contains
large villages, like Corquemarca, which is the capital of this province
and the residence of the Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy; it
is on the Oruro highway; others are Huaillamarca; then 5 leagues
to Curaguara, and 5 again to Totora; Andamarca and Tulco, where
there are very rich silver mines, from which they have taken large
amounts of pure silver, and if they had not struck water, they would
have been the richest mines in the Indies. This village and the mines
lie near the King’s Highway running from Arica to Potosi, to the
left, 2 leagues from the tambo of Titiri. This province contains
many other villages, which are very rich, as well as the curacies,
on account of the large llama ranches it contains; these llamas are
the best and sturdiest to be found in Peru, and for that reason are
worth more than those of the other provinces. The King’s Highway
from the port of Arica to Potosi runs through the center of it. This
province provides the largest mita for Potosi, but they have all fallen
off, for the villages have shrunk and the Indians are exhausted.

1644. On the N. it is bounded by the Province of Los Pacajes;
on the E., by Porco and Potosi; on the S., by that of Atacama; and
to the W., by the Arica and Tarapaca Valleys. It has a cold climate ;
the land is flat, with a few ridges; besides flocks of domesticated
llamas and sheep, there are large numbers of wild and escaped stock,
like guanacos and vicufias ; vizcachas, which are like rabbits ; ostriches,
partridges, geese, and other species and varieties of birds. It is very
healthy country ; the only crops are potatoes, quinua, and ocas; corn
and fruit are brought up from the hot valleys; scattered over the
fields and plains rise heathen tombs like those already described.

1645. The Corregimiento of the town and mines of Porco adjoins
this Province of Los Carangas on the E.; Porco is 7 leagues from
the imperial town of Potosi. This mining establishment is the oldest
in Peru; it was worked in the days of the Incas; it has yielded great
quantities of silver, and still does. This is a Spanish town, and the
Viceroy appoints a Corregidor for the administration of justice in it.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 621

It has many villages and valleys in its district such as the villages
of Ulaba, Chaqui, Puna, and others, and the valleys of Mataca,
where they get much wheat, corn, and wine; and the Orincota Valley,
its boundary against the Province of Tomina. They get over 200,000
jugs of wine in that valley, and make quantities of sugar. On the S.
it is bounded by the Province of Los Lipes, and on the E., by the
imperial town of Potosi.

1646. The Orincota Valley of the Corregimiento of the town of
Porco adjoins the valleys of Pilaya and Paspaya; these contain two
villages of Spaniards and extensive vineyards; the Viceroy appoints
a Corregidor here for the dispensing of justice. Eight leagues up
the Paspaya Valley, the Jesuit Fathers own some large establishments
with vineyards and wheat and corn fields; they raise quantities of
corn and get over 8,000 jugs of wine, and have large herds of cattle.
At this point these valleys border on the Corregimiento of Tarija
and Chichas.

Cuapter VIII

Of the Rich and Famous Potosi Range, and When It was Dis-
covered.

1647. The famous Potosi range, so celebrated all over the world
for the great wealth which God has created unique in its bowels and
veins, lies in the Province of the Charcas, 18 leagues from the city
of Chuquisaca, which was later called La Plata, on account of the
great richness of this range. It is in the midst of the Cordillera,
and since that is high-altitude country, that region is usually colder
than Germany, so much so that it was uninhabitable for the native
tribes. It is scant 20° S.; on account of the cold, not a fly, mosquito,
or [any] other unpleasant creature can live there ; there was no living
thing on that waste but guanacos, vicufias, ostriches, and vizcachas,
which are characteristic of that cold country.

1648. The Cordillera, at the point where the Potosi range stands, is
bare and treeless, with occasional plains, which in that country they
call pampas ; but there are a few ranges in the region, [7] 5 leagues
to the E. of the old Porco mines. The outline of this rich hill is like
that of a pile of wheat or a sugar loaf, handsome and well propor-
tioned, standing up and lording it over the others, as if their prince.
It is almost deep red in color, and is over half a league high, the
ascent covering more than a league, with a steep grade but all
negotiable on horseback over the roads and paths which climb up it ;
at the top, it forms a round summit; its circumference along the

622 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

base of the slope is over a league around. At present it is all hollowed
out and shored up, on account of the great amount of ore they
have taken out from the veins in its bowels and center, and the long
tunnels they have bored from the sides to get the ore out with less
labor, though it remains considerable, for there are veins they have
followed and keep following, for over [200] 300 stades inward;
it was to facilitate these operations that they have made those tunnels
on many sides of the hill. It is joined to another lower ridge which
they call Guayna Potosi, meaning Young Potosi.

1649. This marvelously rich range was discovered at the beginning
of the year 1545, 14 years after the discovery of that Kingdom by
Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro and his comrades. The first to
discover it was an Indian of Chumbivilca Province, which is at one
side of Cuzco, by the name of Hualpa, who was at the Porco mines.
He spoke of it to another native, from the Province of Jauja, which
is up above Lima; this man was a servant or Yanacona of a Porco
miner named Villarroel. He told his master about it, and he went
over to verify the richness of the range; when assured of it, he
registered his claim on April 21, 1545, staking it on the vein which
they have named Centeno ; staking (estacandose) is the same as taking
possession of the extension in varas permitted by the law to those
who make the find, so that they can work it as their own, registering
it before His Majesty’s officials for the proper payment of the 20
percent impost; then they discovered the vein called Estafio (tin),
very rich in ore, and late in August, the Mendieta vein. The first
vein, discovered by the Chumbivilca Indian, was 300 feet long and
13 broad; it had a great outcrop above ground the height of a lance,
half silver, and in parts all virgin silver with flukes projecting out
from the hill level.

1650. These four chief veins were on the E. side of the hill, running
N. and S. into its depths toward the slopes. They had other branches
springing from them, like those springing from the trunk of a tree.
On each of these principal veins there were different mines divided
up between many proprietors or miners; by law, the largest mine
cannot run over 80 varas, and the smallest, 4. The rich vein had
78 mines on it; the Centeno, 24, and the others rather more. These
ore veins in general run between two cliffs which stand like sentries
over them, and are called Caja (strongbox). They do not always run
even, but in some places rich and others poor; they break open the
cliffs or cajas to get it out, although they are the hardest of flint
in some cases. They call the rich ore tacana; it is almost amber
colored ; it comes also red, ashy, and other colors.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 623

These ores were treated by smelting for 26 years, because the
Spaniards in that Kingdom knew no other method; they used it
from the discovery of the richness of that range in 1545 until the
year 1571, when, in the days of Don Francisco de Toledo, they began
treating the ore with mercury, the benefits of which had been dis-
covered in the Huancavelica mines, as has been noted in its proper
place.

1651. The way they smelted these ores was in little ovens which
the Indians set up on the tops and slopes of the sierras and moun-
tains; they fed them with wood or charcoal and when lighted they
glowed under the draft of the wind the Indians call guayra, and
so they called these ovens guayras; every night over 6,000 flamed on
those ridges and mountains under the fresh wind blowing through
them ; it was a pleasant sight to see so many lights at night; it looked
as if there were bonfires all over the hills, and gay celebrations, and
so it surely was for the Spaniards, with the Indians getting out the
silver for them. They even had rogations, Masses, and other pious
acts for God to send them wind for their guayras, just as sailors
do when there is a calm at sea for a wind to help them on their
course. In this smelting they used the rich ore and dumped in soroche,
which is plumbeous, so that it would melt and liquefy better. Thus
the slag separated off under the flame, the lead melted, and the silver
swam or ran on top of it, until the heat consumed it and the silver
was left, which kept on refining and purifying itself until it became
liquid and pure; they used tin also in the process. Smelting could
not get all the silver except at too great effort and cost; so they did
not smelt low-grade ore, the residue and the discard (desmontes)
for the reason given, it being too difficult and the cost more than the
profit, until the quicksilver process arrived ; that gets it all (varrelo),
and so all grades of ore, rich and poor, and whatever discard and
residue there was, were treated, and are treated, with it, better and
more easily ; and yet at the present day there are many guayras on
the Potosi range and its neighborhood, operated by poor miners and
Indians.

CHAPTER IX

Continuing to Describe the Magnificence of the Potosi Range;
and of the Indians There under Forced Labor (Mita) in Its
Operations.

1652. According to His Majesty’s warrant, the mine owners on
this massive range have a right to the mita of 13,300 Indians in the

624 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

working and exploitation of the mines, both those which have
been discovered, those now discovered, and those which shall be
discovered. It is the duty of the Corregidor of Potosi to have them
rounded up and to see that they come in from all the provinces
between Cuzco over the whole of El Collao and as far as the frontiers
of Tarija and Tomina ; this Potosi Corregidor has power and authority
over all the Corregidors in those provinces mentioned; for if they
do not fill the Indian mita allotment assigned each one of them in
accordance with the capacity of their provinces as indicated to them,
he can send them, and does, salaried inspectors to report upon it,
and when the remissness is great or remarkable, he can suspend
them, notifying the Viceroy of the fact.

These Indians are sent out every year under a captain whom they
choose in each village or tribe, for him to take them and oversee
them for the year each has to serve; every year they have a new
election, for as some go out, others come in. This works out very
badly, with great losses and gaps in the quotas of Indians, the villages
being depopulated ; and this gives rise to great extortions and abuses
on the part of the inspectors toward the poor Indians, ruining them
and thus depriving the caciques and chief Indians of their property
and carrying them off in chains because they do not fill out the mita
assignment, which they cannot do, for the reasons given and for others
which I do not bring forward.

1653. These 13,300 are divided up every 4 months into 3 mitas,
each consisting of 4,433 Indians, to work in the mines on the range
and in the 120 smelters in the Potosi and Tarapaya areas; it is a
good league between the two. These mita Indians earn each day,
or there is paid each one for his labor, 4 reals. Besides these there
are others not under obligation, who are mingados or hire themselves
out voluntarily : these each get from 12 to 16 reals, and some up to 24,
according to their reputation of wielding the pick and knowing how
to get the ore out. These mingados will be over 4,000 in number.
They and the mita Indians go up every Monday morning to the
locality of Guayna Potosi which is at the foot of the range; the
Corregidor arrives with all the provincial captains or chiefs who have
charge of the Indians assigned them, and he there checks off and
reports to each mine and smelter owner the number of Indians
assigned him for his mine or smelter ; that keeps him busy till 1 p.m.,
by which time the Indians are already turned over to these mine
and smelter owners.

After each has eaten his ration, they climb up the hill, each to
his mine, and go in, staying there from that hour until Saturday

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 625

evening without coming out of the mine; their wives bring them food,
but they stay constantly underground, excavating and carrying out
the ore from which they get the silver. They all have tallow candles,
lighted day and night; that is the light they work with, for as they
are underground, they have need of it all the time. The mere cost
of these candles used in the mines on this range will amount every
year to more than 300,000 pesos, even though tallow is cheap in that
country, being abundant; but this is a very great expense, and it is
almost incredible, how much is spent for candles in the operation
of breaking down and getting out the ore.

These Indians have different functions in the handling of the silver
ore; some break it up with bar or pick, and dig down in, following
the vein in the mine; others bring it up; others up above keep separa-
ting the good and the poor in piles; others are occupied in taking
it down from the range to the mills on herds of llamas; every day
they bring up more than 8,000 of these native beasts of burden for
this task. These teamsters who carry the metal do not belong to the
mita, but are mingados—hired.

CHAPTER X

How They Grind and Treat the Silver Ore.

1654. The mills to grind the ore are run by water, like water mills
(acefias) or gristmills; for that purpose they have around the range
or at some distance from it I6 reservoirs; the most remote, called
Tavaconunio, is 3 leagues off. In these they collect the water which
falls in the rainy season; the mills are all built and arranged in order,
and when the grinding is to start, they let the water into a channel
passing from one to another, for as soon as it issues from one, it
goes into another ; the whole Potosi range is like that. Most of the
mills have two heads (of water?), with great heavy stone hammers
which pound the ore, the ones rising and the others falling, just
as in a fulling mill, until the ore, hard as flint though some of it is,
has been reduced to meal; then they sift it through sieves set up for
that purpose; in 24 hours they will sift over 30 quintals.

They set great store on the water in these reservoirs; as soon as
one is empty, they start on another, for although they are all divided
up and apportioned, they are arranged in such a way that each dis-
tributes its water to the first mill, and from that on in order. This
Potosi range is the larger ; most years, when the water gets low, they
have processions and prayers for rain to fill the reservoirs; and
according as the year is wet or dry, they run the mills a longer or

4l

626 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

shorter time, to grind the ore. The Tarapaya range is the shorter ;
the mills there grind with the water of a stream on which they
are built.

1655. After grinding and sifting the ore they dump it into con-
tainers for the furnaces and saturate it with brine, using for every
50 quintals of ore, 5 of salt, more or less, according to the quality
of the ore, for it to eat and consume it, or part of it, and scour it.
Then they put the mercury in, so that by this arrangement it may
better embrace and combine with the silver, and shorten the process,
and bring about a union of the mercury with the silver, having thrown
salt in with it; they knead it twice a day with their feet, just as they
do clay in the making of tile or brick, and they remix with mercury
twice a day; then they put the containers on furnaces and start the
fires underneath in small ovens, so that the heat may cause the mercury
to amalgamate more quickly with the silver.

Although the ore all comes from one range, the mines and the ore
are usually of different grade, and so different materials are necessary
for their treatment; for some they put in salt and lime, and iron or
copper ground up in water, for which processing they have some
small mills; in others, they put lead and tin; other ore—the negrillo
(stephanite )—is first roasted in ovens for its grinding in the mills.
Thus in some cases they use all these materials, in some, many, and
in some, fewer, according to the need and to the grade of the ore;
if low, the quicksilver is hampered in its union and amalgamation
with the silver. With all this preparation and solicitude, in one case
it may come to 20, in others more or less; with the fire or heat they
apply, and these materials mentioned, the quicksilver absorbs the
silver within 8 days.

1656. At the moment which seems right to them, according to the
ore and the treatment given it, the mercury having already absorbed
the silver, they dump this ore into large tubs with water running
into them. These have a device with paddles or wheels in continual
motion inside the tubs, so that the ore dust is carried off by the
running water, and the combined mercury and silver, being heavier,
goes to the bottom and settles there in the tubs. The rest of the
ore, which was not well washed in these tubs or other puddling
operations, they finish refining, until the silver and mercury alone
are left, without any dust. This lump, which is soft as dough, is
put in a linen cloth and squeezed hard until they press out and
separate all the mercury they can from the silver. Then they put
the lumps of silver which have had the mercury squeezed out, into
clay forms or pots shaped like sugar loaves, with an aperture at the

WHOLE VOL. - THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 627

end of the narrowest point, and set them in ovens specially made
for the purpose; when they start the fire, the mercury goes out
through the hole as vapor or smoke, but nothing is lost, thanks to
the preparation made.

After the fire has severed the mercury from his friend the silver,
the cone (pifia) of pure silver comes out the size and shape of a
loaf of very white sugar, for silver looks very white and spongy.
Each cone is usually of 40 silver marks, slightly more or less; that
is the ordinary product from one container; but if the grade and
richness of the ore permit, they may get two cones, as happened at
the beginning when the rich range was first exploited; the same
is true of certain new mines; but ordinarily it is only one. They
make up a bar by melting two together. The silver refined by the
mercury process is so fine and white that it is always above the 2,380
grade; and to make it fit for use by the silversmiths, they reduce
the grade to the 11 dineros and 4 grains which is the legal sterling
standard, by addition of copper or other alloy.

CHAPTER XI

Of Other Processes Used to Extract the Silver from the Ore
Dust, and of the Quantity of Mercury Used Every Year.

1657. The silver which is extracted and collected from the ore dust,
is much finer than that which they get first from the ore; it is the
most delicate part that runs off with the mud and ore dust in the
first washings and rewashings of the ore in the tubs. Of this dust,
which contains much silver that has passed through and escaped the
mercury process, they treat every year more than 300,000 quintals,
roasting it in more than 200 (700?) furnaces maintained for this
purpose on the Potosi and Tarapaya ranges. Thus they recover a
large amount of silver, which will amount each year to over 300,000
pesos ; this is the finest and highest-grade silver of all that is handled.
Together with it they recover more than 2,000 quintals of mercury
carried off with it in the ore dust; this amount, plus over 6,000 more
brought from the Huancavelica mines, is used up every year at
Potosi alone in the reduction of the ore and the silver.

After this silver has been run into bars, the Assayer takes a bit
from each and weighs it by itself to see what grade it is. He puts
each bit of silver into a receptacle made of ashes from ground burnt
bones, cast in a mold, each with its label; these are like the little
molds used by the silversmiths in casting silver or gold. These jars
or molds are used for the assay sample and when they take it for
the assay, His Majesty collects his royal 20 percent.

628 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

They assay them in a jewelers’ furnace at his direction; the
indications are easily recognized. He applies a very hot flame which
melts the metal contained in each mold; and if the silver contains
copper, tin, or lead, the intensity of the flame makes it go up in
smoke and disappear, leaving the silver purified and very fine. When
it is in this state, even though liquid and molten, and the jar is
turned upside down, not a drop falls out; by this and by its color,
the Assayer knows when it is refined. Then he takes the jars from
the flame and with a very accurate balance reweighs each sample
or bit by itself; and according to the shrinkage or loss in weight,
he determines the grade of each bar; if it has lost little or nothing,
its sterling quality is recognized ; and the others are graded according
to the loss or shrinkage shown by the bit or sample. This assay
and weighing is done where there is not a breath of wind or other
interference that can affect the accuracy and precision of the weighing,
for on that depends the determination of the grade of each bar.
They always take the assay of many bars together; otherwise it
would be a very hard and tiring operation. After doing this, each
bar is graded and marked according to the bit taken from it, with
certainty, so that by this test they know the grade, price, and value
of each bar.

1658. This is the way in which its fineness and standard are known.
Before becoming a bar, it passes through and suffers great torture,
for in their covetousness for it, men go where it is ever since they
have made acquaintance with it; they bore into the bowels and center
of the earth, bursting open the strongboxes in which Nature created
it, given it for its defense and preservation. To get it out, much
suffering is endured; they carry it off to the mills where they grind
and pound with heavy hammers the rock and ore in which it took
form; then they sift it, and after sifting it they dump it into troughs
or containers with lime, salt, iron-water (agua de hierro), and the
other materials mentioned, to scour it; according as is required,
they knead it and tread upon it many times, going over it all again,
and then they set that ferret, mercury, upon it, for him to search
out and appropriate the silver in all the mud in which it lies; then
they put the flame to it to help the mercury; and after the amalga-
mation, they wash it in tubs, as has been said. Then when the mer-
cury and silver are clean, they give it the water-cure torture (tor-
mento de toca), separating the mercury from the silver; for this
they put that dough or putty of the two amalgamated metals into a
linen cloth and garrot it hard, squeezing the mercury out; and since
not all of it comes out, they apply fire to it, and thus they get it

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 629

completely alone, severed from the mercury and from the earth which
created it. And now that it has become pure, they again torture it
with fire to make it into bars; it goes through so many tortures that
the Holy Ghost uses it in the comparison with the righteous: Malachi
III: 3, “And he shall purify the sons of Levi, and purge them as
gold and silver”; and Ecclus. II: , “Like silver purged of earth,
purged sevenfold.”

So huge is the wealth which has been taken out of this range since
the year 1545, when it was discovered, up to the present year of
1628, which makes 83 years that they have been working and re-
ducing its ores, that merely from the registered mines, as appears
from an examination of most of the accounts in the royal records,
326,000,000 assay pesos have been taken out. At the beginning when
the ore was richer and easier to get out, for then there were no mita
Indians and no mercury process, in the 40 years between 1545 and
1585, they took out 111,000,000 of assay silver. From the year 1585
up to 1628, 43 years, although the mines are harder to work, for
they are deeper down, with the assistance of 13,300 Indians whom
His Majesty has granted to the mine owners on that range, and of
other hired Indians, who come there freely and voluntarily to work
at day’s wages, and with the great advantage of the mercury process,
in which none of the ore or the silver is wasted, and with the better
knowledge of the technique which the miners now have, they have
taken out 215,000,000 assay pesos. That, plus the 111 extracted in
the 40 years previous to 1585, makes 326,000,000 assay pesos, not
counting the great amount of silver secretly taken from these mines
to be registered in others paying only Io percent tithes, the silver
in the 20 percent impost, the currency circulating in those Kingdoms,
the silver plate and vessels of private individuals, that in the churches
in the form of chalices, crosses, lamps, and other vessels for decoration
and use in divine service, and that that has been taken secretly to Spain,
paying no 20 percent or registry fee, and to other countries outside
Spain, and to the Philippines and China, which is beyond all reckon-
ing; but I should venture to imagine and even assert that what has
been taken from the Potosi range must be as much again as what
paid the 20 percent royal impost.

Over and above that, such great treasure and riches have come
from the Indies in gold and silver from all the other mines in New
Spain and Peru, Honduras, the New Kingdom of Granada, Chile,
New Galicia, New Vizcaya, and other quarters since the discovery
of the Indies, that they exceed 1,800 millions.

630 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XII

Of the Inspectors and Administration on the Range for the
Exploitation of the Mines, and the Salaries They Receive.

1659. For the controversies and lawsuits which arise in the mines
between their owners and proprietors; to oversee the way in which
they are worked and if they are shored up according to the ordi-
nances, for such there are; and to settle grievances of the Indians,
an Alcalde Mayor, entitled de minas y serro (of the mines and the
range) is appointed by His Majesty in consultation with his Royal
Council of the Indies. He gets an annual salary of 1,500 assay pesos,
plus the fees he receives on the discovery of new mines, for measure-
ments and for inspections.

Besides the Alcalde de minas, there are four Supervisors
(Veedores) appointed by the Viceroy of Peru; these act as assistants
to the Alcalde Mayor, using his wands of office. They receive 500
assay pesos each, as aides of the Corregidor and this Alcalde Mayor,
at whose orders they all are.

1660. The Corregidor of the imperial town of Potosi receives
every year a salary of 3,000 assay pesos, paid him at the Royal
Treasury in Potosi; he gets in addition 500 mine pesos for the
inspection of the range; 500 more for the inspection of the old mines
in the town of Porco, in consideration of his supervising responsi-
bility there, and of his providing 600 mita Indians for their working
and the smelting; for this he has a warrant from His Majesty, for
although there is a Corregidor there, appointed by the Viceroy, entire
responsibility for the Indians and everything pertaining to the mines
come under the charge of the Corregidor of Potosi. In the district
of the Circuit Court of the Charcas (not counting the States of
Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres), he is a Lieutenant Captain-
General for the Viceroy, and for this extra office they give him 1,000
assay pesos in Indians disposable (Indios vacos), i.e., their pay. The
first one nominated by the Viceroy was Don Francisco Sarmiento.
The Corregidor of the imperial town enjoys other great privileges.

CHAPTER CUTL

Of the Imperial Town of Potosi and Its Magnificence.

1661. The imperial town of Potosi was originally started in 1545,
the year in which that enormously rich range was discovered. At
the news, many Spaniards and Indians flocked in from every quarter
to exploit its ores and enjoy its richness. It lies 340 leagues SE. of

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 631

the city of Lima, 200 S. of Cuzco, and 100 from La Paz, at 20° S.:
and although it is within the Tropic and the Torrid Zone, all that
country was uninhabitable for the cold; but by virtue of the richness
of its range, it is the largest settlement to be found in all the Indies.
It begins at the slopes of the range, chiefly at Guayna Potosi. This
town is over 2 leagues in circuit, and at the least it covers more
ground than Seville. With all its suburbs the town will contain more
than 4,000 Spanish residents—mine and mill owners, merchants and
other traders who live permanently in the town—not counting many
transient traders and other Spaniards who are free lances and are
called in that Kingdom soldados honrados (honored soldiers), and
the truth is that many of them are lost souls; it would be better if
they would work or try to make a living some other way, for they
are the chief cause of the troubles that are apt to arise in that
Kingdom.

1662. The Council of that town is made up of 30 Twenty-fours
(veinticuatros), as they call their Aldermen. Some of these offices
in recent years have sold for 18,000 assay pesos. Each year they
elect from the Council two regular Alcaldes for the town, and two
for the Confraternity. The Alguacil Mayor bought his wand for
112,000 ducats. The Treasury of the Royal Patrimony has three
Officials on its rolls, Contador (Paymaster), Treasurer, and Factor ;
each one gets a salary of 2,000 assay pesos, and each of them has
a functionary to assist him, with a salary of 300 assay pesos. In the
city of La Plata they appoint a representative with the title of Con-
tador, and he collects the income accruing to His Majesty in that
district.

The Corregidor *has authority also over the city of La Plata,
where they receive him on his visit before he goes to Potosi. He
used to appoint a representative at this city of La Plata, but because
of controversies which arose when Don Gabriel Ortiz de Sotomayor
was Corregidor, the Viceroy ordered this privilege withdrawn.

1668. There is a mint, where they coin large amounts of silver
in pieces of 8 reals, 4, and 2, a few sencillos (1-real pieces) and
some half reals, which are the smallest coin minted. All this currency
coined in the Potosi Mint circulates in the entire Kingdom, in Chile,
Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres; Nicaragua and also in the
Spanish Main, where it is brought by the traders who go down there
to buy merchandise coming from Spain, and much gets to Spain
which is coined in that mint, for there is no other in Peru. It has all
the officials necessary for its purposes, like other mints, although
this is the richest of all. It has an Assayer who is a very high official,

632 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

with a voice and vote in the Council; his office brings him in an
income of 6,000 ducats annually, plus many perquisites. Accordingly,
although this site is desert, as has been said, it is nevertheless the
largest settlement in the Indies. It stretches out in suburban wards
and tribes of Indians, over slopes and ravines (which they call guaycos
here), and there will be over 80,000 Indians in them, not counting
women and children. Some have come to live and settle down here
because it is so rich, and they earn an ample living, working on the
range in the mines and mills and other activities; there are likewise
artisans of every craft, and their variety of merchants and traders;
and others who were assigned to the mita from distant regions, from
all the provinces around Cuzco, and the entire Collao, have also
settled down here, for they say that here they are free from the
vexations which might be inflicted on them, and when their turn
comes for the mita, they are there at hand, ready to take part in it.

1664, This country is normally very cold, a consequence of its
high altitude, its situation in the midst of the Cordillera and within
the sphere of other snow-clad ranges, from which the tomahabe
winds blow from May till the end of August. These are very cold,
and you hardly can sprinkle your house before it freezes. The other
months (when this tomahabe wind no longer blows) are more
temperate, but always cold. Accordingly for 6 leagues around Potosi
no crops or trees can grow, and there is no grass on the range, the
earth of which is dark reddish in color, and in places like burnt ashes.

In the neighborhood of Potosi, once these 6 leagues are passed,
there are valleys with a marvelous climate, with vineyards and all
kinds of Spanish fruit and many native, sugarcane, melons, cucum-
bers, quantities of Spanish vegetables. In these valleys, just as in
all the rest of the country, the plazas are full of every sort of
supplies—bread, meat, every variety of fruit God has created in the
world, the whole year through, and in great profusion, so that one
cannot ask for more. The merchants’ shops are full of silks, woolen
and linen cloth and everything else necessary for ordinary and full
dress, with nothing that is lacking or left to be desired, for silver
brings it all.

1665. Their canchas, which are like taverns, serve as shops and
are full of jugs of wine; every year they sell over a million and a
half of this specialty alone. For pepper, which they call ucho and
which comes up from the valleys near Arica; for coca, which is the
plant the Indians use; and for chicha, which is the Indians’ beverage
or brew and is made from corn; for these three commodities, which
are mainly for the use of the Indians, over 2,000,000 ducats are spent.

‘
:
i
i.

;

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 633

In this town they consume: in sheep, each selling at 12 reals there;
cattle, of which great numbers are brought up from the provinces
of Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres; swine; and many llamas,
which are the commonest article of food among the Indians; for
more than 800,000 ducats annually.

This makes no account of the sugar, preserves, fresh fish caught
in the nearby rivers, and dried fish, some of which is brought from
Arica and large amounts from Atacama, Tarapaca, and other points ;
there is large consumption of all these, as of everything else in this
Babylon.

CHAPTER XIV

Of the Churches, Convents, Curacies, and Hospitals in the Im-
perial Town of Potosi.

1666. The parish church of this imperial town is very rich and
well served; it has three curates and one vicar, and two sacristan
priests, who serve in place of another curate; these are for the
Spaniards. There are also over 60 clerics here without benefices ;
they live on the pittance given them for saying Mass, at 2 reals,
at 8 to a peso, each, which is the ordinary fee given there; and they
are not equal to the demand. The church has many very rich chapels
and Confraternities, a large corps of musicians, a very rich sacristy
with remarkable and expensive decorations. It has many lamps, and
among them one worth more than 30,000 pesos ; the monstrance used
for the day and octave of the Corpus is worth over 50,000; and
there are many other very rich and valuable articles which enhance
its magnificence, but which I pass over in order to treat other topics.

It has five splendid wealthy convents, Dominican, Franciscan,
Augustinian, Mercedarian, and Jesuit, which last is a very rich and
important foundation. With the parish church there are 16 parishes
or curacies, thus arranged: 12 for clerics, each worth from 6,000
at the peak to 5,000 and 4,000 at the lowest; these are curates or
dotrineros of Indians, and each curate in his dotrina has his assistant,
and some more than one. The clerics’ dotrinas are: San Martin,
San Juan, San Pablo, San Sebastian, Santa Barbara, Copacabana,
Santiago, San Benito, Los Carangas (which is one of the richest),
San Bernardo; they are installing another at the mill of Don Pedro
de Ulloa. There are two under the care of Dominican friars—San
Pedro and San Francisco ; two others are catechized by Mercedarians ;
these are La Concepcion, which is also one of the richest, and San
Cristobal. These are the curacies in the imperial town of Potosi.

634 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1667. It contains two hospitals in which they care for the indigent
sick, both Spaniards and Indians. Both are excellent and wealthy,
but one is one of the best in the Indies; the richest and most im-
portant residents of the town have a Confraternity, and so they serve
the hospital and the invalids as Brethren and look after its well-
being and its progress. Each year they elect a Superintendent and
other necessary officials, and they spend annually in the service, care,
and comfort of the patients, more than 50,000 pesos, not counting
the large donations to be added to that. Its income is over 30,000
pesos, part of which comes from the theaters (casas de las Comedias),
which bring in every year more than 12,000 pesos. In addition, there
are other churches and shrines, and other large donations are collected
in the town and go out to many other localities ; but those who support
all this elaborate structure of the wealth of the range, are in a state
of exhaustion and distress, both on account of the heavy expenses
they incur in working the mines and reducing the ore, and in other
inevitable expenditures, for all costs are high and the mines are
very deep and worn out. And so to uphold this mechanism and
keep it from falling at a blow, His Majesty might come to their
aid and favor them, which would redound to the profit of His
Majesty’s Royal Patrimony, as I shall explain in the following chap-
ter, which deals with the great losses suffered in the Potosi ore mills
in the year 1626, a disaster unprecedented since the discovery of
that range; with this I shall conclude the description of the magnifi-
cence of Potosi.

CHAPTER XV

Of the Damage Caused by a Flood in the Potosi Ore Mills in 1626.

1668. Besides the heavy responsibilities carried by the residents,
and their indebtedness for many ducats to His Majesty and private
individuals in their extraction and reduction of the ore which has
enriched so many Kingdoms and monarchies with its silver, they
were dealt a heavy blow in the year 1626 by a flood, caused by the
bursting of one of the reservoirs maintained by that town for the
ore grinding; the statement which was sent from there, written by
the Factor Bartolomé de Astete de Ulloa, is of the following tenor:
Corregidor: Sunday March 15, 1626, at 1:30 p.m., the Caricari
reservoir burst on the island side, opposite the Rio Panga reservoir,
and broke through 22 yards of cutwater; and the speed and violence
with which the water reached town were such that the damage it
caused was irreparable; it was so violent that one saw mountains

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 635

of water coming down, higher than the tops of the tallest houses,
and they carried some along for a considerable distance. The damage
started with the property of Diego Ximénez, which is leased by Diego
de Padilla; to try and detail the losses incurred, would transcend the
brevity desired for this dispatch. The number of persons drowned
would appear at the present moment to reach 350; so far it has
been impossible to locate all the missing, who are numerous, both
Spaniards and Indians; and the exact figure is not yet known.
1669. The mills it ruined, or damaged, are as follows:

The mill of Diego Ximénez, completely.
That of Sancho de Madriaga, completely.

” —” Dofia Mariana Maldonado, badly.
Capt. Bartolomé Ximénez Vera, badly.
Alonso Falguero, badly.

Francisco Pérez Guillén, one head down.
Don Antonio Seron, completely.
Salvador de Campo, completely.
Don Gaspar Mufioz, slightly.

Juan Guillén, completely.

Alonso Merlo, completely.

Francisco Guillén, completely.
Antonio Garcia Vasquez, completely.
Don Antonio Ossores, completely.
Licentiate Ibarra, completely.
Jeronimo de Sierra, completely.

That of Hernando Carrillo remained standing, but it carried

off the houses and the people living in them.

” ” Antonio de Rueda, completely.

” ” Bernardo de Urefia, completely.

” —” Domingo de Roa; one head gone, the other badly
damaged.

” ” Andrés Aguado, completely.

Manuel de Guevara; one head gone, the other and the
houses badly damaged.

” ” Pedro Nujfiez de Cabrera, completely.

” ” Lorenzo de Vera, completely.

” ” Francisco de Voeda, completely.

” ” Pedro de Verasatigui, completely.

” ” Jerdénimo Lopez, completely.

” ” Bartolomé Fernandez de Angulo, completely.

636

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

That of Pedro Garcia Rueda, badly damaged.

”

”

”

”

Alonso Cabezas, badly damaged.
Alonso Benitez, badly damaged.

1671. Those remaining which can operate after some repairs :
That of

”

1672.

”

Don Francisco Cabeza de Vaca, untouched.
Jeronimo Cano, one head.

Don Pedro de Andrada, one head.

Simon de Peralta, one head.

Pedro Ballesteros, one head.

Diego de Padilla, three heads.

Mateo de Torres Naranjo, two heads.
Alonso Benitez, one head.

Estéban de Arsidia, one head.

Martin de Ormaechi, one head.

Francisco Guillén, one head left.

Don Juan de la Cueva, one head.

Don Gaspar Munoz, one head, slight damage.
Domingo Sobrino, one head.

Don Pedro Chamorro, one head.

Juan de Paredes, one head.

Diego de Albiz, two heads.

That of Don Miguel de Roa, one head.

Lic. Pedro Ballesteros, unharmed.

Pablo Mexia de Leon, two heads.

Juan Rosel, two heads.

Luis Sanchez Bejarano, two heads.

Cristébal Ortiz, one head.

Francisco de Ubiedo, one head.

Juan Sanchez Mexia, one head.

Pedro Julian, one head.

Pedro Rodriguez de Varas, one head.

Alonso Mufioz, carried off by flood.

Pedro de Herrera, one head.

Don Pedro Ossores de Ulloa, two heads.

Hernando de la Concha, two heads, one badly damaged.

Juan de Villapalma, one head.

Francisco de Navageda, one head.

Isidro Garabito, one badly damaged, and he was carried
off by the flood and is missing.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 637

1673. The other heads from the Tarapaya are unharmed. This
deluge was over, or the greater part of it, by 5 p.m., although it was
not possible to get across that night, until what was left in this
Caricari reservoir had finally drained off. One should have seen the
Indians and Spaniards carrying away the dead and mutilated bodies
along the bank, and the Cofradia (Confraternity) de la Misericordia
gathering them up with great sympathy and with the great com-
miseration of all of us who remain living, although the catastrophe
and the number of the dead were so great that we could not attend
to them as we should have liked to. They say there is much treasure
buried under the banks, which will all be lost or ruined; we have
no recourse but to pray God for succor, for this town’s residents and
refining superintendents (azogueros) are ruined and prostrated. The
loss is reckoned at over 4 millions in ore, quicksilver, and buildings.

Copy of a letter written about the lamentable catastrophe by this
same Factor to the Consignee General (Depositario General),
Jeronimo Lopez de Saavedra.

1674. “I nearly decided not to inform Your Grace of the lament-
able catastrophe in this town, but on account of its magnitude and
because I did not want the courier to leave without a letter for Your
Grace, I will summarize the calamity (? al rebiare el caso ; abreviaré?)
On Sunday the 15th current, the Caricari reservoir burst; they say
that at that time people heard and saw some subterranean tremblings
and other presentiments. Certain it is that God ‘wished to chastise
us, it may be for the offense given Him by the multiplicity of our
manifold sins; but leaving miracles aside, the reason might be that
that side of the reservoir, which was considered safe, had dried out
on account of the long drought, and cracked under the great pressure
of the water; considering the location of the break, it might have
destroyed the whole town; but Divine mercy always prevails over
Divine justice.

“Tt rushed straight down the stream bed and destroyed and carried
off all it found in its path. The damage was enormous, so much so
that it surpasses 4 millions in buildings, ore, and quicksilver, not to
speak of 350 fatalities, and many others who must be buried. Not
all the mills suffered, and some only in part. (?Ni algunos en todo).
Those completely ruined will be 20, and those badly damaged, over 15.
Accordingly, with all the respect and affection which I have for
Your Grace, I am so overwhelmed that I must close. I affectionately
beg His Excellency to be so good as to take pity on this unfortunate
town, both at this present moment and with His Majesty, inasmuch
as the same reason impels to this succor; for if it is not given, His

638 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Majesty will lose a large sum due him; it is a bitter fate for them
to lose their property and their lives and (God forbid!) their souls
in his service; and if there were no other consideration, other things
being equal, appearances alone and reasons of state would demand it.
Furthermore, Your Grace holds this town in particular affection ;
may this so righteous cause plead for itself; I would venture to
assert that in this act Your Excellency will have rendered more
service to the Majesty of Heaven and earth than in all else you
have done.

“In subsequent couriers (chasques) I shall continue informing
Your Grace of what comes to light in respect to damages. Your
Grace will pardon the brevity of these lines, which nothing but my
respect for you could induce me to pen. The statement accompanying
this (which is what I have set above) Your Grace will kindly show
to His Excellency, for it is accurate. God guard Your Grace. Potosi,
the 17th of March, 1626. Bartolomé Astete de Ulloa.”

CHAPTER XVI

How Part of the Damage May Be Repaired, not only in the
Imperial Town of Potosi but in All the Monarchy.

1675. The mine owners and directors labor under great expense
since the mines are so deep in the center of the earth and the ores
they extract and treat are so poor. Accordingly they are, in general
and in particular, involved, poverty-stricken, and burdened with debt ;
and with the bursting of the Caricari reservoir and the flood it occa-
sioned, they have been completely ruined and can no longer work
them and pay His Majesty and private persons what they owe them.
If they are as laboring men to uphold this structure and keep on
exploiting the mines under the heavy expenditure incurred in mining
and in refining the ore, His Majesty might easily and graciously aid
in enabling them to hold and carry the burden, etc., not only to the
benefit of them all but also to that of His Royal Patrimony, and
that of all his realms and vassals, by giving silver its real and deserved
value in the Indies at the moment and when it is assayed and His
Majesty is paid his royal 20 percent; this would be in conformity
with what it costs to get out the ore and reduce it; some reward
is due the miners in return for such excessive labor and to bestow
upon the world this precious metal which constitutes man’s nobility
and wealth. This would revivify the Indies and Spain in new pros-
perity. One need only set the value of the silver mark (the 20
percent having been deducted) ‘at 77 reals instead of 65, increasing

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 639

each mark 12 reals. Six of these should go to increase His Majesty’s
Patrimony, and every mark should pay this additional sum; and six
should go to benefit the miners. Assisted and encouraged in this
manner, not only will they themselves be cheered and the better
able to keep on and exploit the mines, and thus free themselves and
pay His Majesty the large sums due him, but many others will be
inspired to work large numbers of mines existing in those Kingdoms
but abandoned because of the heavy expense and absence of profit
they incur in working them. Thus it may well be, since at the present
moment many are abandoning mines and ceasing to exploit them,
and His Majesty loses the royal 20 percent and his revenues are
falling off, if His Majesty grants this, as lord of the silver harvest,
that his royal revenues will increase by many millions of ducats
to the benefit of his Royal Patrimony and of all the vassals in
his Kingdoms, and to the loss or disadvantage of foreigners, as
Capt. Thomas de Cardona, His Majesty’s Chamberlain (Maestro
de la Camara), has been pointing out for many years; in fact, there
are many articles and treatises on this subject, from [1602] 1603 on,
which may be read and pondered; I printed a memorial upon it in
the year 1623; and it is discussed and completely proved by Capt.
Pedro de Castro, a man of great experience in this specialty and
who has lived many years in Peru, and by others who have written
on this topic. The same proposal would apply to the pifias and other
forms of silver subject to the royal 20 percent impost, and would
strengthen this argument. This would put an end to many losses and
abuses, and would lead to universal benefit ; under the present system,
those who are engaged in working the mines and disemboweling the
earth to bring out metal from its center, are laboring without reward,
falling deeper into debt every day and unable to pay and reimburse
His Majesty and individuals the sums they owe. This brief summary
of this subject, on which much might be said, must suffice; I omit
further discussion, so as to remain within my project and continue
with the provinces and Corregimientos in this district.

CHAPTER XVII

Of the Province of Chayanta and Other Valleys and Provinces
in Amparaes.

1676. Between the imperial town of Potosi and the city of La
Plata, at one side in the direction of the Chuquiabo highway or the
city of La Paz, lies the Province of Chayanta, 6 leagues from this
city of La Plata. This is very rich and well peopled by Indians with

640 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

herds of llamas and sheep. The first village as one leaves the city
is Moromoro; then comes the village of Chayanta, capital of this
province ; nearby are the villages of Macha, Caracara, Copoata, and
others; and to one side of Potosi lies a fertile valley, abounding in
wheat, corn, and other cereals, and native and Spanish fruit; the
settlement here is the village of Tinquipaya, with a large Indian
population. The valley is covered with farms and ranches with all
kinds of stock. This province contains also the Pitantora Valley,
which is one of the best and most prolific in wheat, corn, stock, and
the usual products of the other valleys. The jurisdiction of this
province extends to Potosi; the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor here
for its satisfactory government and the administration of justice.

1677. For the region of the city of Chuquisaca or La Plata and
for all the villages and valleys round about it, which are, properly
speaking, the Province of the Charcas and are called Los Amparaes,
after a village in it by that name, the Viceroy appoints a Corregidor
for its wise government and for the dispensing of justice. All the
Indians of this province attend to the service needs of the city’s
residents ; these Indians are assigned by this Corregidor to the resi-
dents. It contains excellent fertile valleys, full of farms with large
flocks of llamas and sheep and with great numbers of cattle and
swine, and ranches of mares, mules, horses, and goats.. There are
delicious fish in all the rivers. The Mojotoro Valley is 2 leagues from
the city and the pleasure resort for its residents; there are cattle
ranches there, and in this valley and others round about it, besides
a large production of wheat, corn, and other cereals, there are ex-
cellent vineyards, sugar plantations, and all kinds of Spanish fruit,
like pears, large and small peaches, quinces, apples, pippins, figs,
and plums, together with all the native sorts; they have melons,
cucumbers both Spanish and native, which latter are the better, and
all kinds of Spanish vegetables. The Corregidor of this province
usually resides in the city.

1678. This Corregimiento of Los Amparaes is bounded by the
frontier Province of Tomina. To reach it, one leaves the city where
the San Diego convent stands, which is occupied by Franciscan
Recollects. It is 7 leagues from the city to the first village in the
Tomina jurisdiction; it is named Tarabuco. At one side of this lies
the village of Presto, built in a splendid valley, which was the
encomienda of Martin de Almendras Holguin. This valley is thickly
dotted with llama ranches, vineyards, fields of wheat, corn, and other
cereals, Spanish and native fruit, and a few cattle ranches. From
Tarabuco to the town of Tomina it is 12 leagues, all lined with

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 641

country places and farms belonging to Spaniards, with vineyards,
fields of wheat, corn, and other cereals, and large llama and sheep
ranches. Tomina is a Spanish town, and capital of the province;
it is the residence of the Corregidor appointed by the Viceroy for
the satisfactory government of the province and for the administration
of justice.

1679. From Tomina it is 6 leagues to San Juan de Rodas, another
Spanish town, and 6 again to San Juan al Villar, a Spanish village.
From FEI Villar it is 7 to the Rio del Pescado; here are fine, fertile
valleys, with vineyards, sugar plantations and mills, and plenty of
Spanish and native fruit. All this is frontier country with the
Chiriguanaes, and not safe, for every day they make a thousand
raids, murdering the Spaniards, Negroes, and Indians on the farms
and carrying off their women. Twelve leagues into the mountain
country of these savage Chiriguanaes, Capt. Andrés Manso had
settled ; and for lack of reinforcements, they were all of them mas-
sacred. In the year 1615, Capt. Ruy Diaz made a new settlement
there, the land being good and fertile and the climate favorable ;
he lived there 3 years, but no aid was sent him; he got out alive
but they killed many [of his] people. This district has very rich
silver and gold mines, for the whole country is paved with them;
but they are not exploited for lack of labor and for the constant
insecurity caused by these cruel savages. There is abundance of
excellent fruit; they pick cotton here, the climate being hot. And
since one enters the Diocese of Santa Fé de la Sierra through the
jurisdiction of this Archdiocese via the Ayquile Valley, 19 leagues
from the Charcas and 6 from Misque, it was at this spot... .

CHAPTER XVIII

Of the Diocese of Santa Fé de la Sierra, Known as La Barranca,
and Its District.

1680. The town of Misque and Rio de Pisuerga, also known as
Las Salinas, is built in the fine valley from which it takes its name,
20 leagues from the city of La Plata. It was founded by Don Fran-
cisco de Alfaro on September 19, 1603, in the days of the Viceroy
Don Luis de Velasco, Marqués de Salinas, in deference to whom it
was given this title of Villa de Salinas; it has for an outer ward
the village of San Sebastian de Misque. The parish church is named
after Santa Ana; there are Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustinian
convents, and a hospital of San Juan de Dids called Santa Barbara.
The parish church has two curates, each receiving 700 assay pesos

42

642 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

salary ; those in Misque and Ayquile get 500; the curate of Pocona,
800. The first Bishop was Don Antonio Calderon, who had been
Bishop of Panama.

At 4 and 5 leagues from this town are the springs which give
rise to two rivers called Rio de Vivehama and Rio Tintin; on these
there are four gristmills with two millstones each. These two rivers
run independently for some distance and unite near the town; they
then cut through the Cordillera and empty into the great Rio de
la Plata.

1681. It contains over 200 Spanish residents and more than 500
Indians, not counting many other persons scattered through the
valley and living on their ranches and farms. The Viceroy appoints
a Corregidor for all this valley and that of Pocona, which adjoins
that of Cliza in the Corregimiento of Cochabamba, for their good
administration and the dispensing of justice. It contains prolific
vineyards which produce over 100,000 jugs of wine; great amounts
of wheat, corn, and other cereals are grown and shipped to the
imperial town of Potosi. They have large cattle, sheep, and llama
ranches; and since it has a marvelous and delightful climate with
excellent water, fresh breezes and bright skies, this town and valley
are the usual residence of the Bishop of Santa Fé de la Sierra, it
being in his jurisdiction; he is suffragan to the Charcas.

1682. Nine leagues from the valley and town of Misque is the
Pocona Valley, adjoining that of Cliza in the ditsrict of Cochabamba.
This Pocona Valley contains in its villages and district more than
1,000 Indians, and many Spaniards. It has excellent vineyards pro-
ducing much wine, and quantities of wheat, corn, aji, and other
cereals, which are taken up to Potosi. They raise large amounts of
excellent Spanish and native fruit in the valley and much garden
truck ; there are large cattle, llama, and sheep ranches, and throughout
the valley many farms and ranches occupied by Spaniards. Toward
Los Yungas, which is hot country where they raise and pick the
Indians’ precious coca, there are very rich silver and gold mines,
for this whole mountain region is paved with rich veins of those
metals. It was in this Pocona Valley that the first pioneers and
explorers of Tucuman and Rio de la Plata joined forces; their head
was Nicolas de Heredia; they were returning to Peru with Lope
de Mendoza, Militia Captain of Diego Centeno, when he was fleeing
from the rebellious violence of Francisco de Caravajal, Militia Captain
of Gonzalo Pizarro; and after the battle they fought, he caught them
separately in Pocona and beheaded Lope de Mendoza and Nicolas
de Heredia and sent their heads to Arequipa, as is related by the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 643

histories of that period; he executed some and acquitted others.
It is 12 leagues from this Pocona Valley to Cochabamba, all lined
with farms, vineyards, cattle ranches, wheat and corn fields; this is
the Cliza Valley, which divides the jurisdictions of the Corregimientos
of Misque and Cochabamba, and the Archdiocese of the Charcas
from the Diocese of Santa Fé de la Sierra.

1683. Nineteen leagues from the city of Chuquisaca or La Plata,
and 6 leagues before reaching Misque, is the Ayquile Valley, to the
E.; this is where the road branches to go to Santa Fé de la Sierra.
This valley is very fertile and prolific ; they raise quantities of wheat,
corn, wine, and other products, which are taken to Potosi and the
Charcas; it has an excellent climate and delicious water. From here
it is 3 leagues to the Laibato Valley, equally temperate and fertile
and with the same products, but short of Indians, for which reason
the fields and vineyards are cultivated by Yanacona Indians and
Negroes. Going E., one travels 4 leagues to the Omereque Valley,
which is prolific and lovely, with fresh breezes, excellent water,
and bright skies. They produce more than 100,000 jugs of wine and
quantities of wheat, corn, and other cereals. Many Spaniards live
in this valley on their farms and ranches; it is thickly settled because
of its excellent climate, mild air, and soft water, and since the soil
is fertile, it is a bit of Paradise.

1684, From here it is 7 leagues to the Chilon Valley, far more
fertile and prolific than the last mentioned, and with marvelous
climate and water. It contains large plantations with vineyards,
sugarcane, and sugar mills [with a large output]; they make quan-
tities of wine, and harvest abundance of wheat, corn, and other
Spanish and native cereals; they likewise grow wonderful fruit,
from which they put up excellent preserves; abundance of potatoes
and other root crops and vegetables; and this splendid valley has
large cattle, sheep, and llama ranches. All these products and those
of the other valleys are shipped out to Potosi, Charcas and other
adjoining provinces.

CHAPTER XIX

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Santa Cruz and of
the Splendid Valleys Contained in Its District.

1685. Traveling E. from this famous valley on a straight line for
the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, one covers 7 more leagues to
the valley of Santa Maria de la Guardia, which is much larger than
those just mentioned. In this valley in the year 1615, Capt. Don

644 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Pedro de Escalante founded the town of Santa Maria de la Guardia
at the instance and with the commission of the Marqués de Mon-
tesclaros who was then Viceroy of that Kingdom. The valley is very
fertile, abounding in everything, with fine skies and soil, marvelous
climate, healthful and temperate breezes, and gentle waters which
flow down from gold beds. It contains many farms with vineyards
and sugar plantations; they produce quantities of jugs of wine and
sugar in abundance; from the excellent Spanish and native fruit
grown in the valley, they put up large amounts of delicious preserves.
They raise much wheat, corn, and other cereals, excellent melons,
native cucumbers, sweet potatoes, and other root crops and vege-
tables ; and in the river running through this lovely valley they catch
quantities of delicious fish. It contains large cattle, sheep, and llama
ranches; all the farms are worked with Negroes and Yanacona In-
dians, the natives having fled inland among the heathen; if there
were only people to work and exploit these valleys, this would be
the most fertile and attractive country in the world.

1686. The Pojo Valley is 6 leagues E. of that of Santa Maria
de la Guardia; it has the same fertility and abundance of wine, sugar,
wheat, corn, and other cereals, fruit, and delicious fish, as the last.
There are many farms and cattle ranches here. This was likewise
settled in that same year of 1615 by Capt. Don Pedro de Escalante.

1687. Seven leagues beyond the Pojo Valley, on a straight line
with Santa Fé and San Lorenzo, is the Valle Grande, which is larger
than those last described. It is very fertile and abounds in wild fruit:
it contains much wild and cimarron cattle, the offspring of those
brought into the Cordillera in the days of Don Francisco de Toledo,
when they started pioneering and settling that country. This lovely
valley is not cultivated, for lack of settlers. It contains countless
deer, cimarron cattle, tapirs, and many other animals of various
sorts, much feathered game, paujies, turkeys, pheasants, partridges,
quail, ostriches, and many other birds and animals impossible to
enumerate.

1688. The Saguaypata Valley lies 2 leagues nearer San Lorenzo,
after the Valle Grande. It has a hotter climate than those just men-
tioned ; it is very fertile and abounds in wild fruit. Here they grow
and gather the Indians’ precious coca. There is much large and
feathered game, as in the last valley, with great numbers of jabalies
(pecearies) and many other animals. The whole mountain environ-
ment of this valley is paved with very rich silver and gold ore.
On the E. is the Cordillera of the Chiriguanaes Indians, who are one
of the largest tribes in those vast expanses; today they persist in

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 645

their heathendom. To the W. of this valley is the Yuracarees tribe,
and next them, farther inland, that of the Zimbues, otherwise called
the Mojos, which is also a widespread tribe.

1689. Five leagues beyond this Saguaypata Valley to the E. is the
Rio Bermejo, in uninhabited country. It is given this name (Red
River) because it runs over gold ore, and the earth over which it
runs is red, and so the river water gets this color. Seven leagues
beyond this is the tribe of the Urucuries Indians. Here, in the days
when Don Martin Enriquez governed Peru as Viceroy, in the year
1585, the Indians of this tribe sprang out from ambush and attacked
(dieron una guasavara) Capt. Don Pedro de Salazar who was
traveling past with Dofa Maria de Mendoza and Dona Elvira de
Chaves, daughter of Gov. Nuflo de Chaves; and of the 32 Spaniards
in his party, they killed 17, including this Doha Maria de Mendoza,
grandmother of Donia Elvira, who was herself wounded in the leg
by an arrow; God freed the others miraculously from that horde of
savages, thanks to their bravery and especially that of Capt. Pedro
Alvarez Holguin, who was wounded on that occasion. Five leagues
from this spot and tribe are the gallows (Horcas) called de Chaves,
after those which this gentleman had set up for the severe chastise-
ment he wrought on those savages, for their treacherous act and others
they had perpetrated or attempted; he gave orders for many of the
rebels to be hanged there, to serve as a warning and example to the
rest, and teach them to live with circumspection. This country has
wonderful land and skies with a good climate and pleasant breezes ;
it is so fertile and prolific that it seems a bit of Paradise; it is full
of all kinds of livestock and of game like deer, tapirs, peccaries,
rabbits, and many other animals, and of feathered game such as
turkeys, paujies, pheasants, ostriches, which cover those plains, quan-
tities of partridges as large as domestic fowl and the same shape
and color as those in Spain, and other smaller ones; quail, pigeons,
turtledoves, and other delicious birds. In this country there are vast
plains which they call pampas, which pass out of sight in the far
distance and form horizons round like those at sea; they call the
clumps (montes) in them islands (islas), and use them as guideposts,
so as not to get lost in such extensive plains. The pampas are
covered with an infinity of hogs and other animals such as just
described.

1690. From these Horcas just referred to, it is 5 leagues to the
city of San Lorenzo. This is where they moved the city of Santa
Cruz la Vieja, which was abandoned because it was unhealthy;
it likewise received the settlement of San Francisco de Alfaro. This

646 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102 ~

city has an excellent situation with a very good climate, heathful
breezes, and bright skies, with good water. It lies in 20° S. The city
will have some 300 Spanish residents with a few Indians. It contains
the Cathedral for this Diocese, which was detached in the year 1610
from the Archdiocese of the Charcas, which had far too wide juris-
diction; but the Bishop usually lives in the town of Misque, this
city being so far inland, isolated from Christian intercourse among
so many savage tribes. It contains Mercedarian and Jesuit convents
and other shrines, and is the residence of a Governor appointed by
the Council for its satisfactory administration and the dispensing
of justice. Its climate is hot, but not oppressive; within its district
near the city it has large sugar plantations with 25 sugar mills, turning
out a large quantity, which is taken to Potosi. They raise much native
and Spanish fruit, from which they make very delicious preserves
which are exported to Peru. Large quantities of excellent homespun
linen are produced in the city ; they harvest much corn and rice; they
make excellent bread from the corn; wheat is not grown here. Large
amounts of wild honey and wax are derived from trees in the woods ;
they are the work of a sort of very small stingless bee.

CHAPTER XX

Continuing the Description of the District of Santa Cruz de la
Sierra.

1691. From San Lorenzo to Santa Cruz de la Sierra la Antigua,
it is 30 leagues; at 20 leagues there is a ridge all made of copper,
with over one-fourth of it gold; it would be great riches if there
were people to work it and get it out. And 15 leagues E. of San
Lorenzo there is another ridge, where the Rio Piray empties into
the Rio Bermejo, which is all silver; but this lack of settlers leaves
this wealth untouched; furthermore it lies near the Chiriguanaes,
a warlike and savage tribe. From San Lorenzo toward the Cordillera
where the Chiriguanaes Indians live, it is 18 leagues to the first
village, which is named Yaparo ; then 3 to Tendi, and 2 to Coyayagua ;
all this country is thickly populated with this tribe and many others
who, poor wretches, lack knowledge of our Holy Faith.

1692. From this village of Coyayagua it is possible to go to Tarija
and Los Chichas by the Cordillera which runs through Tomina, the
same one which extends to the villages of Chiqueaca, Tanipa, Con-
dorillo, and Quev6, and the Rio Grande, which is settled by Tobas
Indians ; they carry only one arrow, and at their necks a knife made
out of teeth of the palometa fish; they hardly feel they have defeated

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 647

their enemy even when they have cut off his head with this, as if it
were a cutlass. From this Coyayagua to the Rio there are more
than 200 Chiriguanaes villages, covering the whole slope of the
Cordillera.

1693. To the NE. the plains are covered with countless Indian tribes,
like the Chaneés, the Curiaguanos, the Capayjoros, the Tamocosiés, the
Quivechicosies, and many others impossible to enumerate ; and over to
the E. are the Itatines, who are the typical Chiriguanaes. They border
on Brazil and on many other tribes, in whose territory there are
great navigable rivers. The first villages are 100 leagues from Santa
Cruz la Vieja, which was founded by Gen. Nuflo de Chaves in the
year 1561, during the term of Don Francisco de Toledo, Viceroy
of Peru. He came 200 leagues through warlike Indians from the
city of Asuncion in Paraguay with a large force of soldiers and
noblemen whom he had taken from there; and he pacified and settled
the country. The first explorer of this country was a reprobate
soldier, who had to flee for his crimes; he escaped from Peru and
settled down among these Indians. When they were distressed with
drought, he made a cross and went out with it in a procession, and
God sent them heavy rain, which was the means of the conversion
of those Indians; from that time on they held the Holy Cross in
great veneration and had recourse to it for all their necessities and
trials, and so they all kept crosses in their houses ; that was why they
named the city Santa Cruz. But for the reason given and for others
brought up by Don Francisco de Alfaro, Circuit Judge of the Charcas,
who came to inspect it and the country adjacent, it was dismantled,
‘to the great distress of the poor residents, who were removed to a
settlement among the Chiquitos Indians; this proved unsuitable, so
they were moved again and taken to San Lorenzo, 30 leagues from
the original site. They left all those plains full of cattle which today
have run wild and cover the fields for a distance of over 80 leagues,
up to the first Itatines village, thanks to the rapidity with which they
have multiplied. The junction of those large rivers has kept them
from progressing farther. These Indians profit by the cattle, keeping
them close to them and the poor Spaniards who lost them, far away ;
in fact, these latter were forcibly taken away to settle at San Fran-
cisco de Alfaro ; that was dismantled and most of the settlers perished,
through the fault of the administrators; the few who were left,
rather than perish, returned to the city of San Lorenzo, where they
live at present.

1694. There is a tree in this country like a peach, producing a
fruit the size of a plum which they call tarumaes; they pickle it and

648 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

serve it like olives; it tastes very good. There is another fruit called
obos; the tree is like an orange tree and the fruit like limes, with
a smooth sweet taste having just a touch of sour. Pineapples, mam-
mees, bananas, and papaws grow in abundance. There is another
fruit called guaparu which grows on large, tall trees, higher than
plum trees; this fruit grows out of the trunk of the tree in bunches
with the same taste and appearance as grapes. They have coconut
and date palms, oranges and other unusual fruit impossible to
enumerate. In the woods there are countless monkeys; many sorts
of pheasants (pavas), with handsome and highly prized feathers in
their crests; large quantities of deposits of wax and honey in the
trees in honeycombs they call lichiguanas; they have quirquinchos,
which are armadillos, and much else. This Diocese lies inland, as
has been stated, between the Dioceses of La Paz and La Plata; on
the E. it is bounded by the Diocese of Paraguay; there are however
many hostile Indians in between.

CHAPTER XXI

Of the City of La Plata and Its Founding.

1695. The city of La Plata, called Chuquisaca in the language of
the Indians native to the site, was founded by Capt. Peranzules on
April 16, 1540, and named Villa de la Plata, under a commission
from Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro, Knight of the Order of San-
tiago, explorer and conqueror of those realms; this was authenticated
by Antonio Picado, Administrative Secretary of those Kingdoms,
under date of January 20 of that year. It kept the name of Villa
de la Plata up to October 19, 1555; on that same day it began to be
called the city of La Plata, as is stated in the Council records for
that year, without any other evident reason or patent, but rather,
it would seem, by provision of the Viceroy Marqués de Cafete, Don
Hurtado de Mendoza; in the documents he sent out, he called it
villa (town) until on March 10, 1557, he called it ciudad (city) and
the Viceroys have kept on so calling it, and so have the royal war-
rants. Although at the start there were only a few Spaniards here,
and humble buildings, it has grown in every respect.

1696. It was established in the Province of the Charcas, so called
from the Indians living there; the Spaniards called it New Castile,
as is shown by a writ of this Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro. In
matters both civil and criminal it is under the Royal Chancery which
has its seat there, having been established in the year 1561; this has
a President who receives a salary of 5,000 assay pesos and five Asso-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 649

ciate Judges (Oidores) who are likewise Alcaldes de Corte, and
an Attorney (Fiscal), each with a salary of 4,000 assay pesos, paid
by the Royal Treasury in Potosi.

1697. It has two Relators and two Sergeants-at-Arms (Porteros),
each with a salary of 500 assay pesos paid by the Royal Treasury
in Potosi and from the cash penalties set by the court; a Chaplain
named by the President for the Circuit Court, with 800 assay pesos ;
a Solicitor (Solicitador) for the Royal Treasury and an Alcaide of
the Court Prison, at 500 assay pesos; an Appraiser (Tasador), 300
pesos ; an Assessor (Repartidor), 300 pesos; a Counsel for the Poor,
250 pesos; an Attorney for the Poor, 100 pesos. The office of
Alguacil Mayor de Corte was auctioned off at 55,c0oo ducats, but
they put it up to 70,000, which has given rise to a lawsuit. The offices
of Chancelor and Registry, 4,000 assay pesos; that of Receiver
General of Fines, 9,500 assay pesos; two Court Secretaries at 4,000
assay pesos each; the posts of Receivers, at 3,500 assay pesos; those
of Attorneys (Procuradores) have gone for 4,000 assay pesos. There
are usually more than 12 lawyers (abogados) at this Royal Circuit
Court; everything has augmented since this description of the city
in the year 1610 was so made out at the order of the then Viceroy,
the Marqués of Montesclaros.

1698. This city is laid out in square blocks, each 560 varas square ;
the streets are straight. In the year 1610 there were five streets
8 blocks long, and eight cross streets each 6 blocks long; the streets
are each II varas wide (hueco). At present there is a greater area,
for the city has kept growing. The main plaza, which is at the center
of this city, is a square of 648 varas, where eight streets debouch ;
its four sides divide them in two. It has four smaller plazas, in
front of the Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, and Mercedarian
convents. The city is so built that E. and W. run across it crosswise,
from corner to corner.

1699. In the year 1610, this city contained 704 houses, as follows:
68 tall first-class houses, some better than others; 249 low but well
built; in them there were 146 shops, 30 of merchants, [64] 74 of
artisans of all crafts, and 42 pulperias in which general supplies are
sold at retail. In the 2 parishes of San Lazaro, which is an outside
ward to the E., 217 houses of poor Spaniards, mestizos, and Indians,
and of San Sebastian, which is to the N., 196 houses of the same
class of people, most thatched with straw but some tile-roofed.

1700. In the Royal Apartments there are two halls for the public
hearings of the Royal Circuit Court, and another where the verdicts
are read and where Mass is said for the President and Associate

650 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Justices. There is also an apartment where the royal seal is kept,
and the record book of the decisions and decrees of the Circuit Court,
and the principal apartment, where the President lives; nearby is
the Court Prison.

CHAPTER XXII

Continuing the Description of This City of La Plata.

1701. This city has a handsome and sumptuous building for its
Council Chamber. It has the coat of arms given it by Viceroy Marqués
de Cafiete, Don Hurtado de Mendoza in the year 1559—two ridges,
the right-hand one high and the other low, at its foot, signifying
the Potosi range, which is famous the world over for its richness,
with five veins of silver ore running from top to bottom, and at its
highest point, a gold cross; on the low ridge there are six guayras,
as the Indians call the little furnaces in which they melt the silver
ore; at each one stands an Indian dumping ore into these guayras.
The other ridge, which is to the left, stands for the Porco range, so
named (Pig) because of its great richness and its silver ore. These
ridges and the settlements built on their slopes, belonged to the
jurisdiction of this city, and the Council sent out an Alcalde from here
to dispense justice, since one ridge was only 5 leagues from the other.
Between the two ridges is a royal eagle with a crown, resting on two
columns set on these ridges, representing the insignia of the Em-
peror Charles V of glorious memory, in whose time it was discovered
and settled. In the other quarterings under these two ridges, stand
four castles and two lions, without any indication of their meaning
in the legend. In between the castles is an armed hand with a white
flag and on it a red Jerusalem cross. The shield has 10 heads for
a border; these are the heads of 10 rebels, who rose against the
royal crown in these provinces; this city defeated them, at its own
expense, and cut off their heads.

1702. The offices of Alguacil Mayor de Corte and de la Ciudad,
of Chancelor, Registrar, Receiver General of Fines, 2 Council Secre-
taries, 8 Receivers, Alférez Mayor (Ensign-Major), Depositor
General, both with voice and vote in the Council, 4 posts of Public
Scribe (Escrivanias), 2 provincial and 2 public in thé city; another
for the Council, and public ; another of the Juzgado Mayor de Bienes
de Difuntos (Registrar of Wills) ; and 17 posts of Regidor (Council-
man )—these are all offices acquired by purchase and transferable;
they have no salary other than their rights and perquisites, except
that the chapter members of the Council get a salary of 15,000

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 651

maravedis, which is paid them out of city revenues; the Alférez
Mayor gets 30,000 maravedis.

1708. The provincial judicial administration is carried out by the
Associate Circuit Justices (Oidores), who are likewise Alcaldes de
Corte in turn, 2 months at a time; the one in charge of deceased
persons’ property holds office for a year, to suit their own con-
venience ; there are ordinances for this. The Tribunal of the Holy
Crusade consists of a Subdelegate General, one Associate Justice (the
oldest), and the Attorney of the Circuit Court, with a Paymaster
(Contador)—the one resident in the city—a Notary, before whom
the cases are brought, and an Alguacil who carries out the decisions of
this tribunal.

The Council of this city consists of 20 chapter members, Council-
men, with voice and vote in the Council, and 2 regular Alcaldes
(Alcaldes Ordinarios) elected by the Council at the beginning of
each year ; an Alguacil Mayor of this city, and 2 Inspectors of Weights
and Measures (Fieles Ejecutores), at which the chapter members
take turns of 4 months each. The Alcaldes elected by the Council
are confirmed in office by the President of the Circuit Court, and
in his absence the oldest of the Associate Justices in residence, as
well as two Alcaldes de la Santa Hermandad (Holy Confraternity),
[23 lines deleted] a City Attorney General and a City Superintendent
(Mayordomo) ; these are all persons outside the Council; from its
own number it elects an Alcalde de Aguas (Water Commissioner) ;
these are all received and admitted into the Council.

CHAPTER XXIII

Continuing the Description of the City of La Plata and Its
Convents.

1704. There is a public fountain in the Plaza Mayor of the city,
and 3 others in the small plazas of San Francisco and San Augustin
and on a public street, not to mention other outlets distributed through
the city’s convents and more than 50 in private houses; this all is
brought by aqueducts from a spring at the foot of a ridge called
Churuquella, on whose slopes the city’s buildings begin. The city
contains many gardens of flowers and fruit, the latter called chacras ;
they are in the suburb of Guayochapa.

1705. This city is at scant 20° S. Its climate is excellent, being
temperate with a tendency toward the hot and dry, but without
unpleasant heat or cold, the atmosphere being dry; but it is subject
to storms with thunder and lightning, which do much damage. The

652 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

temples in this city are the parish church, entitled La Concepcion
de Nuestra Senora, which is one of the wealthiest, most richly
decorated, and best served of churches. It has two beneficiary curates
and the dignitaries and Prebendaries named in the catalog of the
Dioceses. The convents are Dominican, Franciscan (named for San
Antonio), Augustinian, another of the Mercedarians, the Jesuit con-
vent named for Santiago, and that of the Franciscan Recollects
entitled Santa Ana, which is a very fine and elaborate building at
the entrance to the city on the road from the town of Tomina; these
all have many friars and give courses in Arts and Theology. There
is a convent of nuns called Nuestra Sefiora de Los Remedios, of
the Augustinian Order. There is a college and seminary, with blue
sashes ; they are collegians [four words illegible] under the protection
of Santa Isabel. There is a hospital known as Santa Barbara, which
is likewise a parish, and they administer the sacraments there.

1706. In the year 1610 there were usually in this city more than
1,100 men and 1,500 women; at present there are more, for the city
has grown and this reckoning is only of those resident in the city,
but many mestizos and quadroons come into the city, not to speak
of travelers, those here on legal business, and the traders who come
and go. In the Indian parishes there are 300 paying tribute, plus
300 others too old or too young; there will be over 1,000 Indian
women; the married persons, both tribute-paying and old persons,
are 400 in number. In the city there are Indian artisans of all crafts,
silversmiths, tailors, shoemakers, silk weavers, chairmakers, car-
penters, and potters, as well as Yanaconas and other transient men
and women, over 1,500 of all ages. There are mulattoes and zambaigos
(Indian and Negro half-breeds), 140 in number, some of them
married; 32 are slaves; of Negro men and women, slaves and free,
1,300 persons; 300 will be married.

There are in addition 23 foreigners in this city, Italians, Corsicans,
and Flemings, traders and dealers here.

The office of Alguacil Mayor in the city was sold for 26,000 assay
pesos; that of Alférez Mayor, for 10,200 assay pesos; Depositor
General, 10,000 assay pesos; those of Procuradores (Attorneys),
for 4,000; Councilmen, at the beginning for 2,000 assay pesos, later
for 4,000, 5,000, 6,000, and 7,000 assay pesos; the post of Council
Secretary, 15,000 ducats ; Public Secretary, 11,000 assay pesos ; those
of Provincial Secretaries, two for 7,000 assay pesos and the other
for 12,000; that of the Juzgado Mayor de Bienes de Difuntos (Pro-
bate Court), 34,000. All have a higher value and rating at present,
for the city has grown larger and more important.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 653

CHAPTER XXIV

Continuing the Description of This City, and in Particular, of
the Foundation of Its Hospital and the Income It Enjoys.

1707. The city keeps as its own the brokerage fees (correduria)
of the Exchange (Lonja), the gauging fees (mojoneria) and the
office of Commissioner of Weights and Measures (Fiel de Peso y
Medidas) ; the public announcement (pregoneria) of all the offices
which are auctioned off (se arriendan), and the slaughterhouse (carne-
ceria), which is leased out. It is the owner also of some shops and
houses (solares) and plots of land, which are rented out. This all
brings the city in each year 7,000 current pesos, 500 more or less.

The leases it has on houses and shops are because the land was
given to it, for when the city was founded, they were designated
as the city’s own by the Council for leasing ; the same is true of the
land it lets out on lease; as for the brokerage fees of the Exchange,
the gauging fees, the announcements, and the fees for weights and
measures, they are a gracious gift of His Majesty to the city; the
slaughterhouse was built with the city’s own funds. The city is 320
leagues from Lima.

1708. The founding of the hospital took place in the year 1554;
Bartolomé Hernandez, a native of La Mancha in the Kingdom of
Toledo, established it in the following manner. This Bartolomé
Hernandez with great charitableness used to take in poor sick Span-
iards and Indians and keep and nurse them in his home. In that
year of 1554, it pleased God to take this holy man into His rest;
in his will he left 2,000 current pesos from his property for his
executors (who were Father Pedro Calero of the Dominican Order
and Father Leonardo de Valderrama, curate and vicar of the holy
church of this city, which then was a town) to invest, and with the
income to continue the care of the indigent sick. The executors
invested it, and from this beginning and with other contributions and
bequests which were made, this income kept growing, and was still
more greatly increased when in the year 1573 the Viceroy, Don
Francisco de Toledo, designated a mine on the Potosi range, two-
thirds of the profit from which was to go to the poor patients in the
Potosi hospital, and the other third to those of this hospital. These
mines were leased to Alonso de Torrejon for 4,866 assay pesos, and
the third accruing to this hospital was leased out in 1576; and with
this and other contributions and bequests, its annual income was
increased by the figure of 4,250 current pesos in the year 1610,
raised by an annual tax on the income of the residents of the city,

654 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

plus a ninth part and a half of the tithes of this holy church ear-
marked to it each year; and with the daily contributions, it has come
to have an income of over 16,000 pesos.

There is only one ward (enfermeria) in this hospital, in the shape
of the badge of San Juan de Dios (tao), and in the transept it
forms there is an altar where Mass is said; and in the main ward,
in the right wing of this tao, there are 14 beds for Spanish patients ;
in the left wing, 19 for Indians; and in the center, 16 beds for
mestizos, Indians, mulattoes, and Negro slaves, for whose care their
masters give contributions to this hospital; and at the end of this
main section, there are 6 beds in alcoves, where they apply mercury
ointment to victims of tumors (syphilis), for all kinds of poor patients
are treated in this hospital.

1709. The hospital has a Manager (Administrador) who is like-
wise Superintendent (Mayordomo), who collects and distributes its
income; he is nominated by the Archbishop of this city and the
President confirms him in his title, by virtue of royal patronage.
This Manager gets an annual salary of 400 assay pesos, his living
apartment in this hospital and food for himself, one servant, and
a mule.

There is a doctor [and surgeon] with a salary of 500 assay pesos,
a chaplain who is the curate of this hospital, with living quarters
in it and a salary of 600 assay pesos; the surgeon gets 350 assay
pesos; the barber and the man-nurse, each 250 8-real pesos; it has
some Yanacona Indians who care for the patients and attend to all
their needs. The holy Metropolitan Church of this city has an
excellent choir, with singers, seises (dancing choirboys), and players
on reed and all other musical instruments. The Bishop received, in
the year 1610 when this description was drawn up by Don Jeronimo
Maldonado de Buendia, from his share of the tithes accruing to him,
20,000 assay pesos and 14,000 from the funeral 25 percent; the
revenues have gone up greatly, for since that time many vineyards
have been planted in the valleys of its district, notably in those of
Pilaya and Pispaya, so that the tithes have much increased.

CHAPTER XXV

Continuing the Description of the Chief Features of This City’s
District, and of the College.

1710. The Seminary and College in this city gets an income of
3 percent on the salary of every Indian missionary chaplainship
(dotrina) in the whole Archbishopric, and every post of chaplain,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 655

and Confraternity head, and on hospital income, all of which brings
in annually 5,000 current pesos. Furthermore, from the Arch-
bishopric’s tithes the half of a ninth and a half, which at present
amounts to over 5,000 pesos, the tithes having greatly increased.
It gets also a tax on the incomes of the residents of the city, which
produces 300 pesos, so that at present, as reckoned above, its revenues
come to 10,300 pesos a year. With this money the collegians and
seminarians are fed and lodged from the age of 18 to 25; they study
Latin in the Jesuit College, and Arts and Theology in the Dominican,
Franciscan, and other convents. The seminarians wear dark gray
gowns with black cloth mangas, with scarlet caps and sashes. They
go by fours to the Metropolitan Church weekdays, and on feast days
all together. It is imperative that a university should be established
here.

The Indians living in this city speak the Quichua language, which
is the lingua franca of the Incas; others speak Aymara, and others
Puquina, each according to his origin; there are also other special
dialects in other villages.

1711. The general occupation of the residents of this city is farm-
ing and cattle raising, and transporting supplies to the town of Potosi
and bringing back from there merchandise and other commodities
lacking in this city, and in the native cloth business for Indian men
and women; this is in sashes (fajas) with which they swathe their
waists, and which are called chumbés, and in a sort of footwear
made out of colored wool, like yoke pads (rollos), with bowknots
(lazadas) fastening them to rawhide soles; the Indians call this kind
of footgear ojotas. They sell wool dyed in different colors, and
bricks (panecillos) of wild cochineal with which the Indians make
varicolored dyes by combining it with various plants they use for
that purpose. They sell also wooden vessels stippled in different
colors and called queros, in which the Indians drink their chicha
beverage, and many other native products, as well as Spanish mer-
chandise, with which this city is very well supplied, and which make
its residents very prosperous.

1712. To the E. this city has 25 leagues of settled country, up to
the towns of Tomina and San Juan de Rodas; then comes the Cor-
dillera of the Chiriguanaes Indians and other countless tribes over
to the Atlantic, more than 800 leagues of mountains and mighty
rivers. To the W., the Pacific is 100 leagues distant. On the S. there
are 36 leagues of settled country of varying climates, and from there
on, the territory of Tucuman, up to the wildernesses of the Kingdoms
of Chile. To the N. it has 4o leagues of settled country, up to the

656 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

town of Oropesa, which is built in the Cochabamba Valley. From
there toward the E. and the Atlantic come over 1,000 leagues of
different savage tribes scattered over great forests and rivers.

1713. This city has jurisdiction in different directions over 20
leagues, more or less. It borders on the towns of Potosi, San Felipe
de Austria, Oropesa, and Salinas, Tarija, Paspaya, and Tomina, all
Spanish settlements. The town of Potosi is 18 leagues to the W.,
and Oruro is 47 in the same direction; the town of Oropesa is 40
leagues off; that of Salinas del Rio de Pisuerga, 20 to the N.; that
of Tomina, 20 again, to the E., and that of Paspaya, 30, and Tarija
26 leagues to the S. Almost all the country in this district is very
rugged and the major part mountainous; all that is under cultivation
is very fertile.

1714. A league from this city forests begin and continue to the
hotter valleys and depressions, where the trees and woods are larger.
Various kinds of trees grow in them; the best and most valuable
are cedar, molle, cinchona (quinaquina), tipa, soto, tarco, walnut
(nogal), alder, willow, algarrobo (carob), palm tree, ceiba (silk
cotton) which the Indians call cufiuriyuruma, vilca, uruche, mara,
sutarpo, ayayanta, and tuisumo.

CHAPTER XX VI

Continuing the Description of the District of This City, and in
Particular of the Variety of the Trees and Their Timbers.

1715. Of all the trees listed in the preceding chapter, the only
fruit trees are: the palm, which bears coconuts; the walnut, very
tough-shelled nuts; the carob, carob beans like the Spanish ones but
different in being white and sweeter; the molle bears bunches of
what are like small grapes; when ripe they are red and the Indians
make a kind of wine out of them which they drink. The cinchona
tree likewise produces pods like the carob; the other trees do not
bear fruit.

1716. Out of cedar they make planks and frames for house doors
and windows, tables, boxes, and other things ; from the tipa, cinchona,
soto, yayanta, tarco, and carob, joists, braces, and beams for houses
and the Potosi ore mills; from the walnuts, planks, etc., as from
cedars; from the molles, cogs for the gristmill wheels; from the
willows, hoops for sieves and small boxes for preserves, and charcoal
for gunpowder; and they get much else that is useful from these
and.many other trees that they have.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 657

1717. From the quinaquina tree (cinchona) they get a liver-colored
resin which is very fragrant and healing ; with its vapor (sahumerio),
chills (frialdades) and head colds disappear; and with this resin
mixed with oil they cure wounds and sores, and the oil which is
pressed out from its seeds has the same virtue and is more efficacious.
The quinaquina is a very handsome tree, and its wood is very fra-
grant and tough; the color of the wood is white with tawny streaks.

1718. The molle also yields a white resin which is good for curing
chills; [which] given in pills, it acts as a purge. They make decoc-
tions of its leaves to use as lotions for chills and swellings on the
legs, and they are very efficacious. Its bark is excellent for strength-
ening and cleaning the teeth.

1719. The tipa tree yields a red resin with which they tighten and
strengthen the teeth. The tarco tree is very medicinal in its flowers,
which are purple and very handsome, the shape of white lilies, but
growing in clusters; [from them] they make preserves which are
very helpful and curative for syphilis tumors; water boiled with
wood from this tree has the same virtue, as well as the dried leaves;
powdered, they are a grand remedy for curing every kind of sore,
no matter of how long standing; and this powder boiled in water
is good for curing piles, used as a lotion.

1720. With the vilca tree they tan leather, as with sumac. This
tree bears pods which have small, round seeds inside; these are an
effective purge for all sorts of humors, and are the usual purge used
by the Indians. The uruche tree serves the same purpose as the
cork oak in Spain, being very light. From the sutarpo tree they make
dishes for the table, painted trays (bateas) and other things. The
leaves of the tuisumo tree are used to bring tumors quickly to a head,
and to get rid of leg swellings; its bark stops or relieves aching back
or front teeth, and strengthens them, killing caries. From the carob
they make excellent charcoal, which the Indians call taco; the juice
of its bark and leaves is an effective remedy against snake and spider
bites, and the bites and stings of other poisonous vermin.

CHAPTER XX VII

Of the Bezoar Stone of the Vicufia and Its Virtues, and of Other
Stones, Roots, and Herbs of Medicinal Value, To Be Found in the
District of This City.

1721. The bezoar stone of the vicufia, of which I have made men-
tion several times in other chapters, is very effective against poison
and other heart affections and the tabardillo fever, and so they

43

658 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

administer this stone in potions and saffron plasters. There are also
in this district mines of a stone useful in pain in the side, the bladder,
the blood, and the milk; and another which looks like stone alum,
the color of verdigris, which has medicinal value for all kinds of
sores and syphilitic humors.

1722. There is a root called contrahierba which is an effective
remedy against the bites of snakes and other poisonous vermin, so
much so that when powdered and drunk in water or any sort of
cordial, it produces a cure without any bad effect from the bite. The
saltwort (paico) counteracts cold humors. Water boiled with the
snake-plant (?vibora) and drunk is effective for pains in the side
and for obstructions to free passage of the urine, and plasters made
of the plant itself, for bringing tumors to a head. Chuma, which is
a kind of spiny thistle, when sliced and roasted and laid against the
sore spot on the goitre (goza) relieves the pain and dispels it; the
Indians make use of the juice of this plant in their superstitions ;
they drink it and lose consciousness, and say that they see all that they
desire. There is another plant which is all little spines, called
chuquicanglia; its vapor stops the pain of headaches and megrims.
The root of the guay plant, when powdered, is an effective remedy
for every sort of pain, and it knits and strengthens any broken leg
or arm bone. There is another plant which grows a sort of ground
truffles on its roots; these are an excellent purge and are used like
mechoacan; they call it Robles’ purge, because one of his Indian
women knew about it. The chamico plant is very medicinal; it has
a white flower like the white lily; this produces a round fruit larger
than a pigeon’s egg, thickly covered with tough spines; inside it
has a black seed which the Indians use as a purge, and in particular
against witchcraft; with its leaves they cure scrofula (lamparones)
and any sort of swelling and tumor; and if they administer this seed
as a potion in wine, water, or other liquid, the persons go to sleep
for as long as they plan in regulating the size of the dose; the anti-
dote is to rub the nostrils with a little strong vinegar, which wakes
them up.

1723. The corvincho plant resembles a thistle, and has a white
and yellow flower, which produces a small gourdlike fruit with a
black seed in it. This is a powerful purge for choleric humors; the
leaf and bark of this plant have the same effect. Its root powdered
and drunk dissolves any stone in the bladder. The pincopinco (pingo-
pingo) plant boiled in water has the same virtue as sarsaparilla; the
Indians use it for their syrups and in various diseases.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 659

1724. The chucochuco plant applied wet to any wound, cures and
cicatrizes it at once. The ucochacora plant is also called ucucha,
which means mouse; they say they die if they eat it; water boiled
with it is a potent remedy for consumptives. The yuralmaycha plant,
with its leaves boiled in water, relieves pains in the side and is an
efficacious remedy against the tabardillo fever, melancholia, and
heartburn; women in childbirth drink this water and lose the after-
birth immediately. Powdered, it is used to knit and heal broken
bones in legs, arms, and elsewhere.

1725. Of Spanish medicinal plants they have rosemary, fennel,
marjoram, rue, maidenhair fern, ceterach, mint, hierba de Santa
Maria, celery, parsley, balm-gentle, coriander, pennyroyal, camomile,
nettles, common cress, vervain, roses, pinks, sweet basil, gillyflowers
in white, yellow, purple, and of every sort, sweet marjoram, borage,
artemisia, lilies, white lilies, pimpinel, watercress, clover, poppies,
carrots, lettuce, cabbages, radishes, turnips, onions, and garlic, the
virtues of most of which are well known.

1726. Of Spanish fruit they have quinces, pomegranates, large
and small peaches, apricots, plums, figs, quantities of grapes, pears,
melons, cucumbers (but the native kind is better), all kinds of
pumpkins and squashes, eggplants, artichokes, oranges, citrons, grape-
fruit, limes, lemons, ciuties, and bitter oranges. Of native fruit
there are three kinds of guavas; pacaes, which are a sweet fruit
and easy to. digest; native cucumbers; bananas; palta (aguacate),
a delicious and wholesome fruit ; pineapples, a fragrant and exquisite
fruit, but phlegmy; passionflower (granadilla), whose Indian name
is tintin and which is very delicious; jiquirna, which is a root like
a large turnip, very juicy, sweet, and cooling; hung up, it will keep
a long time; frutilla de Chile, which are like strawberries and
resemble tree-strawberries but are better; there are round pumpkins
which are called zapallos; there is another fruit like a cucumber,
called achocha, and many other varieties of fruit impossible to
enumerate ; tomatoes and peppers of many sorts, which the Spaniards
call aji and the Indians ucho.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Of the Crops Sowed in the District of This City, Both Spanish
and Indigenous, and of the Rivers in This District.

1727. In the neighborhood of this city they plant wheat, barley,
chickpeas, large beans, kidney beans, lentils of both the Spanish and
native variety, corn, quinua, which is a small grain which they use

660 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

in stews, potatoes, ocas, manioc, peanuts ; these are all cultivated as in
Spain, with plows and yokes of oxen. But some Indians follow their
ancient method and turn the earth with sticks about a stade long
with a point like a spoon at the bottom and with a crosspiece about
a foot long fastened with straps, as on a stilt; with the right foot
they bear on this crosspiece to turn the earth with the long stick,
using both hands and casting the earth one side, and that is the
way they plow and cultivate; they call this plow taclla; then with
other short sticks like dibbles, called caucanas, they weed their plots.
There is plenty of everything for the supply of the city and its
region, and much is carted off to the imperial town of Potosi.

1728. Just outside the city runs a watercourse called Quirpinchaca
and another passes through the center, which runs full of water when
it rains; it is called Churuquella, and there is a bridge for going
across it from one side of the city to the other in the rainy season,
which is from October to April, the same as in Spain; that is the
most temperate period of the whole year, although in the city the
temperature is almost always equable.

1729. The rivers nearest the city are the Cachimayo, which is
24 leagues away, and rises 15 leagues off, in some springs gushing
out of the Caracara Sierra. There are excellent shad (sabalos),
armados, bagres, cachuelos, and other fish in it, which are caught
for disposal in this city and the town of Potosi.

1730. The Rio de Pilcomayo takes its rise 40 leagues from this
city, in some snow-clad ranges bordering on the trading posts and
tambos of Las Vizcachas and La Lagunilla. It runs within 5 leagues
of the city and has the same plentiful supply of fish as the last.

1731. The Rio de Mojotoro is also 5 leagues away from the city,
and it sweeps around it at this remove until it reaches the Mojotoro
Valley, which gives it its name, although it runs through other
valleys. The Cachimayo and Pilcomayo Rivers unite 6 leagues from
this city and enter the Provinces of the Chiriguanaes; and when
they have been joined by other rivers and streams coming out of
canyons, they form the famous Rio de la Plata.

1732. The Rio de Mojotoro unites with other rivers 10 leagues
from the city and empties into one they call the Rio Grande, which
enters the Provinces of the Chiriguanaes and many other savage
tribes, and after flowing more than 1,300 leagues to the NE., empties
into the famous Rio Marafion. These rivers rise in the period from
November to March, their freshets coming in January and February,
and low water in August and September.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 661

1733. These rivers confer benefits in having many gristmills on
their banks for wheat and corn, and in supplying the irrigation
ditches for the numerous vineyards, gardens, and chacras, or fields
of wheat, corn, chickpeas, and other crops, in the valleys through
which they flow. Both the Cachimayo and Pilcomayo Rivers have
stone bridges on the King’s Highway running from this city to the
town of Potosi, and there is no other crossing except by fording
them. The Rio de Mojotoro has no bridge over it, being a variable
stream ; although it has great floods at times, one can cross as soon
as they subside. There is another river, 10 leagues from this city
on the highway to the towns of Salinas and Oropesa in the Cocha-
bamba Valley, which also has no bridges, although it is a considerable
stream ; in the winter it is crossed by a boat kept there by a Spaniard,
and in the dry season it is forded without risk.

CHAPTER X XIX

Of the Variety of Bees Which Make Honey, in the District of
This City, and of the Different Kinds of Birds and Game To Be
Found There.

1734. This city and its neighborhood are well provided both with
syrup, through having nearby some sugar mills and crushing plants
where quantities of sugarcane are ground, and with honey, since
there are five species producing it. Some are black and round, called
linchupa by the Indians ; they deposit their honey a stade underground,
first building a layer of yellow wax on the bottom, about a finger
thick, on which they heap many small olive-shaped wax cells in
which they deposit the honey. These bees sting so that the wound
hurts and festers.

1735. There are other bees, larger than the last, and called tocto
by the Indians, black and yellow in color. These deposit their honey
in holes they make in trees; this is better than the other ; these sting
like the last. There are other black bees, as large as the last, which
the Indians call yao. These build hives as large as Peruvian wine
jugs, of a dark gray pulp which looks like brown paper, on the
ground at the foot of bushes or small trees; they deposit more honey
than the others, but it is not as good. These sting a great deal. In
the State of Caracas and Guiana, the Indians call these bees matehey ;
they work the same way there.

1736. There are other yellow and black bees longer than the pre-
ceding; the Indians call them lichiguana. These build their hives
in the top of the highest trees, the size and shape of a man’s head, and

662 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

deposit their honey in it; the honey is excellent, with only a little
wax ; these bees do not sting.

1737. There are other bees as large as medium-sized olives, yellow
with dark gray wings; the Indians call them guancoyro. They
deposit their honey more than a stade underground in a cool place,
first making a layer of wax, on which they pile up wax cells, out
of which the honey is taken. This is better and sweeter than the
others; it has a medicinal effect and is more highly esteemed than
the rest. The sting of these bees causes pain and inflammation lasting
over a month.

1738. From right outside the city one finds three kinds of par-
tridges. The largest are called guaycos by the Indians; the medium-
sized, picasas; the smallest, yutos. They have francolins, pigeons,
turtledoves in great numbers and hunted with falcons, nets, and dogs ;
there are falcons, sparrow hawks, eagles, red owls, hoot owls, barn
owls, woodpeckers, linnets, swallows; chiguacos, which are like
thrushes ; oritos, which are parrots; quintis, which look as if gilded,
with very handsome variegated plumes; the tacataca, which is dark
gray with red crest and aigrette; yuros, which are yellow and white
birds the size of thrushes, and sing sweetly; the taracchis are black
and dark gray, of the same shape; the palco is all red, yellow, and
black; they say that its song indicates rain. There is another called
tiquitiqui, all red, the size of a thrush; it sings sweetly three times
a day, in the morning, at noon, and at twilight, in the topmost branches
of the trees. There is a bird of prey like an eagle which the Indians
call aleamari; the turkey buzzards are called auras, and the Indians
call them sucara; these are larger than ravens; one remarkable thing
is noted in regard to them, that although there are great numbers
of them in the cities and settlements, and they are very common
everywhere, the eggs and young of these birds have never been found
nor can they be. These birds are so useful in the Indies that they
are a secondary cause of healthfulness, for they eat up every dead
animal and all offal which might corrupt the air. These birds’ sense
of smell or instinct is so developed that no matter in how remote a
spot or how far away from them a dead animal may be, they
immediately get on its trail, and they have been the means of bringing
to light many hidden deeds of this nature.

1739. The condors are of such remarkable size that they are
usually 4 varas in spread from one wing tip to the other. It is a
very savage and harmful bird, and devours a good share of the newly
born calves; three or four of them will tackle a calf; one will peck
it on the hind quarters, which makes it bellow and at that instant

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 663

another condor seizes its tongue and tears it out, and so they kill
and eat it without its mother being able to protect it.

CHAPTER XXX

Of the Animals Living in the District of This City, and Other
Matters.

1740. The varieties of animals found here are: a small kind of
deer, and up in the Caracara Sierras, which are bare and cold, there
are vicunas and guanacos. These are animals unique in the world for
it is not known that they exist anywhere else than in the cold frozen
territories of Peru. They have dark gray wildcats as large as a
medium-sized dog; the Indians call them oscollos; they are great
thieves and catch hens and other birds. There are others somewhat
smaller which the Indians call caraviuchaque; these hunt poultry
at night. The females have a pouch in which they carry their young
after birth until they are grown, and they will let themselves be
killed rather than open this pouch for any purpose except to give
their young food. There are skunks (zorras; lit. foxes), called
anatuia by the Indians ; when they are pursued, they merely discharge
their urine and the stench is so pestilential that it forces their pur-
suers to give up.

1741. There are very ferocious tigers which the Indians call oto-
rongos and which do much damage among the cattle. There are dark
gray lions called in the Indian language poma; there are others
which are thought to be ounces, and are called lilisti; they have a
head like a horse’s, are very savage, and do great harm among all
sorts of stock and with human beings. They have many kinds of
bears, and some called ant bears. There are foxes like dogs which
do harm to sheep, goats, etc., and in the fields, eating corn in the
milk; they are called atoc. The vizcachas are the color, size, and
shape of a rabbit; the only difference is that they have a big tail.
There are cuyes, which are the rabbits of that country; they have
famous ferrets, which the Indians call siqui. In the district of this
city there are many cattle and sheep ranches, farms with mares,
mules, and hogs; and especially in the Mojotorio (sic) Valleys, as
well as in others, for there are abundant supplies everywhere, it
contains llama ranches; these are the sheeplike animals which carry
the wine, (es; ?), corn, wheat, flour, wood, and all else required
for the provisioning of the city. And since in preceding chapters
I dealt with the temples of this noble and loyal city, and the college
and seminary there, I would add that the Archbishop of this city

664 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

appoints a cleric of high character and education to be its Rector;
he has an annual salary of 400 assay pesos and a living apartment
in the college, with two daily rations for himself and a manservant,
and 4 reals’ worth of hay every day for the mule.

1742. In the Jesuit College there is a Lector for the instruction
of the sons of that country; on his account this college is given
annually 1,000 assay pesos by the Royal Treasury in Potosi, by virtue
of a royal warrant which they hold to this effect. There is also a
shrine of San Roque as one leaves the city on the Potosi highway.

CHAPTER XXXI

Of the District Comprised within the Archdiocese of This City,
and the Jurisdiction of the Circuit Court Located There.

1748. This Archdiocese holds a very wide and rich jurisdiction,
extending from N. to S. over 160 leagues, from the Province of
Paria, where it borders on those of Los Pacajes and Caracollo in
the Diocese of La Paz, down to the farthest bound of the Province
of Atacama, where it is bounded to the S. by the Copiapo Valley in
the Diocese of Santiago de Chile. From FE. to W. it covers 200
leagues, from the Province of Los Carangas, its western boundary
against the villages of Arica in the Diocese of Arequipa, to the
Omaguaca Valley and Province of Los Chichas on the E., which
border on Jujuy in the Diocese of Tucuman.

1744. Within this district it contains very large and wealthy prov-
inces, which are: on the W., those of Los Carangas and Paria; to
the WSW., those of Los Lipes and Atacama; on the NE., the rich
Cochabamba Valley; near the city, the Provinces of Amparaes,
Chayanta, and others; to the E., those of Los Chichas, Tomina,
and Tarija, the rich Pilaya valleys and the town of Paspaya, where
they produce large amounts of wine, and others producing wine,
wheat and other cereals, and there are sugar mills and large cattle
ranches, all of which bring in abundant tithes to the Archdiocese.

1745. They have very rich silver mines in the district: those of
Potosi 18 leagues away, so renowned all over the world; those of
Oruro, 47 leagues distant; those of Porco, 5 leagues from Potosi;
those of Valmisa, again 5 leagues; those of Berenguela, 12 leagues
from Oruro; those of Colquiri; those of Tulco in Los Carangas;
those of Usloca in Los Lipes; those of Alota, Tupiza, and Turque,
not to mention other very rich mines in the district. From these
comes the major part of the silver arriving in Spain; and there are
many others for the whole country is paved with it.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 665

1746. There are in this district 12 Spanish settlements: the city
of La Plata, the town of Potosi, the town of Porco, that of San
Felipe de Austria called Oruro, that of Oropesa in the Cochabamba
Valley, the town of Tomina, that of San Juan de Rodas, EI Villar,
Tarija, the town of Paspaya, Berenguela, San Vicente en Los Lipes,
and other Spanish settlements, forming 14 Corregimientos. Two
of these are in the appointment of His Majesty, in consultation with
the Royal Council ; these are Potosi and Oruro, and also the Alcaldia
Mayor of the Potosi mines. Eleven are filled by the Viceroy: Los
Amparaes, Chayanta, Tomina, Tarija and Chichas, Los Lipes, Ata-
cama, the town of Porco, Paria, Carangas, Cochabamba, Pilaya, and
Paspaya. The Archdiocese of the Charcas has five suffragan dioceses :
that of La Paz known as Chuquiabo, that of Santa Cruz de la Sierra,
that of Tucuman, that of Paraguay, and that of Buenos Ayres.

1747. The Circuit Court located in this city is the last in Peru.
It has very wide jurisdiction: N. and S., from the Moquegua Valley,
where it touches the Court of Lima, to the Copiapo Valley, which
is at 27°20’ and belongs to the district of the Circuit Court of Chile;
along the sierra, likewise N. and S., from the Province of Paucar-
colla in El Collao, where it borders on the villages of Ayaviri and
Orcosayo in the Province of Cabana and Cabanilla, which are in
the Diocese of Cuzco and the Circuit Court of Lima, and then
running through the Provinces of El Collao to the end of those of Los
Lipes and Atacama, more than 200 leagues; E. and W., from the
Pacific at the Moquegua Valley (for Arica belongs in the Lima
Circuit Court) as far as Buenos Ayres on the Atlantic, 600 leagues,
and the same to the city of Asuncion, capital of the State and Diocese
of Paraguay. Accordingly it comprises in its district those of the
Archbishopric of the Charcas, the Diocese of La Paz, the Diocese
of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, San Lorenzo or Misque, the Diocese of
Tucuman, the Diocese of Paraguay and the Diocese of Buenos Ayres,
and other States and Corregimientos among them which will be
described in their proper place.

CHAPTER XXXII

Of the Province of Atacama and the Remarkable Things in It.

1748. The Province of Atacama is 80 leagues WSW. of the city
of La Plata, on the Pacific coast; it is the last plains province in
Peru. On the N. it is bounded by the Tarapaca and Pica Valleys,
from which it is separated by 40 leagues of desert; on the E., by
the Province of Los Lipes, 30 leagues away ; on the S. by the Copiapd

666 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Valley in the district of Chile. The first village in this province is
Tocompsi, as one goes from the Province of Los Lipes; then comes
the village of San Pedro de Chiochio, which was converted by Capt.
Pedro Alvarez Holguin; from there it is 28 leagues to the port of
Cobija on the Pacific; on that coast there are the ports of Tocopilla,
El Morro, and others.

1749. The Corregidor of this province resides in Atacama la
Grande, which is 14 leagues from Chiochio in a straight line toward
Chile. From here to the village of Toconado in the same valley it
is 6 leagues, and so flat that the one village can be seen from the
other. Tocompsi is 7 leagues toward Chile from Toconado, and is
the last in this province. In its valleys they raise wheat, corn,
algarrobas, potatoes, and grapes, cultivated by the Indians, and there
are besides orchards of Spanish and native fruit trees in the tiny
depressions in the midst of those uninhabitable sandy wastes, like
the Catarbe Valley which is very cool and delightful, and all under
irrigation ; that of Toconado, Tocompsi and others.

1750. On the coast of this province there are no valleys, for the
water in the rivers does not reach the coast, being absorbed in those
desert wastes of sand. The Indians along the coast have no food
crops; they are fishermen and live exclusively on fish and shellfish
of various kinds, which are excellent; there are oyster beds there,
from which they get food also. These oysters grow many fine pearls,
but they are not gathered because the district is so remote and labor
so scarce. On this coast there is a lofty headland on which the sea
beats and in which there are veins of green stone; when ground
up and drunk, this is a potent remedy for urinary troubles and it
consumes bladder stones.

1751. On most occasions when enemy ships have come through
the Straits into this sea and run up the coast within sight of land,
they have reached this region; but since its Indians have no habita-
tions except the shelters they make out of sea lions’ skins for shade
from the intensity of the sun, and which they leave when they want
to go elsewhere in their search for shellfish which is their chief
sustenance, the enemy have not stayed or even landed there.

1752. The Indians on this coast dress in sea lions’ skins and make
their boats or rafts out of them, on two skins blown up with air;
they go out to sea on them to fish, for off that coast there are extensive
fisheries of conger eels, spotted dogfish (tollos), lisas, dorados, arma-
dos, bagres, jureles, tunnies, octopi, and many other kinds of fish,
which they salt down and which are carried by great troops of
llamas to Potosi, Chuquisaca, Lipes, and all those provinces of the

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 667

upland country, for that is the principal commerce of that region,
and many have grown rich in it.

1753. All the Indians on this coast, besides their food of shellfish
already referred to, have as their chief food and drink, whale oil,
and they kill many whales, which are abundant on that coast, to get it.
The way they fish or hunt for them is curious and shrewd. There
is abundance of copper in that province, and with it they make
prongs or spears shorter than bullfight spears and fasten them to
short shafts secured by tying them to their wrists with sea-lion
leather thongs; then they go out hunting whales. These generally
sleep off that coast from midday on for 2 or 3 hours, in the most
peaceful and profound slumber on top of the water, and covering
the head from the sun for their sleep with a short fin they have
over the heart. Then when the Indian has spied one asleep, at which
they are very expert, he goes out to it on his sea-lion skin raft,
which he can utilize without the possibility of losing it, and reaches
the sleeping whale; he gives it a harpoon thrust under the fin, where
its heart is, and immediately drops into the water to escape the
whale’s reaction ; for when it feels the wound it is furious and bellows
loudly and dashes the water high in the air in the wild and angry
struggles which the pain causes; then it starts off bellowing toward
deep water, until it yields to mortal fatigue. Meanwhile the Indian
has recovered his raft and returned to shore to watch and locate the
point off the coast where it is dying, and they remain on guard till
they see it stop. Then all that clan and group of relatives who have
been carefully watching, go there at once together with all their
friends and neighbors for the feast; they open it up on one side,
and some stay inside gorging and others outside for 6 or 8 days
until they cannot stand it any longer for the stench. Meanwhile they
fill all their containers (which are mostly made of sea lions’ intesttmes )
with slices of the whale’s blubber, which the sun’s heat melts and
turns into oil; that oil is their usual beverage. These sea-lion bags
or containers are sometimes so large that each one will easily hold
an arroba of oil. And as the Indians usually go inside the whale for
their feasting on it and anoint themselves with its fat, their hair
comes out red as gold or a burning candle; and as they are tanned by
the intensity of the sun in that hot country, it is a strange thing to see
their black figures and appearance (acataduras) and their hair red.

1754, On all this desert and inhospitable coast there is no tree
or headland in whose shade one might take refuge from the blaze
of the sun. There are great numbers of wild and stray dogs there,
which live on the shellfish; and as they have no shelter or refuge

668 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

from the virulent fury of the sun, all of them, from the tip of the
muzzle to the point of the tail, and all over the back, have lost their
skin and are all sores under the fiery heat of the sun; and the only
way they can live in those uninhabitable deserts is to have the nights
and the period before sunrise for their comfort and repose.

1755. The last village in this Province of Atacama is called
Tocompsi. From here it is a day’s journey to the Pajonal (Bulrush
Swamp), in which there is a jagiiey or well of water to refresh the
traveler; there is no other in that desert, which produces very fine
bloodstones, milkstones, emeralds, piedras moradas (purple stones),
turquoises and other sorts of green, yellow, and variegated stones
and other very fine varieties, so that one thanks God for having
created them. Certainly it is great wealth, but little benefit is got
from it, since it is so remote and isolated in that uninhabitable waste.

1756. There are hills of pumice stone, and in this region appear
the mountains of Gilboa (Gelboé) and the people of that country
so call them, for neither rain nor dew falls there, nor is there any
memory that it has in the past. Those who die in that region, dry
up without corruption and become mummies. From this Pajonal to
Copiapo it is 14 leagues along the coast on the direct S. road to
Chile ; this is in the district of Atacama.

Six leagues from the Pajonal there is a tiny bright green depression
full of couch grass (grama) ; with its cool attractiveness, this invites
the traveler who has passed over 6 hot leagues of desert, sandy
wastes, to stop and rest, for it is a necessary sleeping place if one
is to continue over the rest of the sandy desert ; this is all paved with
salt, as in the territory of Arica, and even more so, as is the case with
other dry plains along the Peruvian coast.

1757. This dale is called Hatunllulla, which means big liar, for
it greatly deceives the chapetones (newcomers) or novices who travel
through here, in their ignorance of the country, unless they have
some Indian for a guide or someone else who knows the game.
These latter take a nap after eating and let the mules rest in the
grama some 4 hours; then they take them out to a high bluff and
tie them up there till they have to start, to avoid the sad fate which
has befallen many who took no guide and lay down to sleep in the
coolness of the dale, with their mules hobbled, and were all drowned.

1758. The fact is that 6 leagues E. of that locality there are some
high snow-clad ranges, in 26° S. Under the powerful heat of the
sun the snow melts and the water comes down off the snow banks
with a furious rush and in great volume; and as it is only after
the evening coolness and the rising of the breeze that this melted

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 669

snow water comes down, it is after midnight that a great wall of
water arrives and flows for 2 or 3 hours; it carries along everything
before it. This can be counted on as a regular thing for every dawn,
and it lasts the time mentioned; and as those who did not know
the country have suffered by it, they have given this tiny valley the
name of Hatunllulla, which means big liar and deceiver. From here
it is 5 leagues to the Algarrobal, and from there 3 to Copiapo, which
is the boundary point of the Circuit Courts and the Archdiocese and
Diocese of the Charcas and of Santiago de Chile. This must suffice,
and we shall turn back and describe the Provinces of Los Lipes
and Chichas of that Archdiocese, where it borders on that of Tucuman.

CHAPTER XXXIII

Of the Provinces of Los Lipes and Chichas.

1759. The Province of Los Lipes is 50 leagues WSW. of the city
of La Plata; on the W. it is bounded by the Province just described
of Atacama. This province raises few crops; the Indians live in
tiny valleys where they grow cafiahua, which is a cereal like hemp-
seed ; they live on this and small fish which they catch in a lake in
the Alota Valley, which takes up a large part of it. This province
is very rich in silver mines, for it is all paved with it. It is 5 leagues
from the Alota Valley to the chief mining site in this province, a
Spanish village called Lipes; from here it is 9 leagues to the Tupiza
mine site, and 13 from there to that of Turque, and 14 to the mining
camp known as San Vicente, on the road toward the Province of
Los Chichas and Tarija, which is the boundary. Besides the silver
mines with which this whole province is covered, there are mines
of lipis (copper sulfate), which gives the province its name, and
of lodestone.

1760. Since this whole province has large uninhabited districts,
it is all covered with game, like guanacos, vicufias, deer, vizcachas,
and other animals, which also form the food of the Indians. This
is the last sierra province in Peru toward Chile; coastwards it is
bounded by Atacama Province, as has been stated; to the WNW.
by the Pica and Tarapaca Valleys of Arequipa Diocese; on the E.
by the Province of Los Chichas and the villages of La Quiaca and
Omaguaca in the Kingdom of Tucuman. In this Province of Los
Lipes, the Viceroy of Peru appoints a Corregidor for the administra-
tion of justice.

1761. The Province of Los Chichas, like that of Los Lipes, is very
rich in silver ore. On the W. it is bounded by the valleys of Pilaya

670 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and Paspaya, from which it is 36 leagues to the Spanish town of
Tarija; halfway is the Sinte Valley, in which many cattle ranches
have been established, and there are large vineyards, fields of wheat,
corn, and other cereals, and abundance of fruit. The river running
through this valley, besides furnishing delicious fish, carries quantities
of gold, which they can wash wherever they look for it.

1762. The town of Tarija is the residence of the Corregidor whom
the Viceroy appoints for it and the Province of Los Chichas. The
Tomatas Indians come in for the service of the residents. The
Corregidor appoints a representative in the village of Viloca, which
is a mining camp in the Province of Los Chichas, which contains
many small villages; the principal ones are Santiago de Cotagaita
and that of Talina. There are other silver mines in this province,
for it is all paved with those ores. There are large cattle ranches
here, and it is well supplied with provisions, although much comes
in from Tucuman, which adjoins it and the Province of Los Lipes.

1763. Leaving Potosi for Tucuman, one goes 9 leagues to the
town of Espiritu Santo de Cayca, an Indian village, and then down-
stream to the Rio de Tocopalca, which is rather large and where
there is an Indian village by this name. Six leagues farther on is
another small village called Los Flamencos ; it is 3 leagues from there
to Santiago de Cotagaita, which is a frontier post against the Chiri-
guanaes Indians. From there one goes to the Tupisa mining camp,
and 6 leagues farther, to the village of Talina, which is the last in
the Province of Los Chichas, and the boundary with the great Prov-
ince and Kingdom of Tucuman. All this region described is in
the Archdiocese of the Charcas.

CHAPTER XXXIV

Of the District of the Diocese and State of the Provinces of
Tucuman.

1764. All this journey above described from Potosi on is rough
country with many mountain ranges; the fields are full of vicufias,
guanacos, deer, vizcachas, tortoises as big as tubs, and much other
game, as far as the village of La Quiaca, which is the first in the
Diocese and State of Tucuman. From here one passes into the
Omaguaca Valley, which is [100] 90 leagues from Potosi. Omaguaca
is an Indian village; the valley is fertile and abounds in wheat, corn,
potatoes, and other native and Spanish root crops and fruit; it is all
covered with small Indian villages and Spanish ranches as far as
the volcano, which is 6 leagues from Omaguaca. This is very high,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 671

and since its eruption it has been casting out and still ejects large
amounts of stone and very ill-smelling gas and black slime. Between
the volcano and the city of San Salvador de Jujuy there are some
large rivers which flow with great turbulence, like the one running
through the Omaguaca Valley; that from the volcano; the Rio de
Leon, which is very pleasant and attractive; the Rio de Los Reyes,
and the Rio de Tobar, which run within a district of 3 leagues.
Between this Omaguaca Valley and the city of Jujuy there is great
abundance of deer; ostriches; partridges as large as hens, and also
like the Spanish ones; the ones have red beaks and feet, the others,
dark gray; and many other animals and birds which cover the plains.

1765. The city of San Salvador de Jujuy stands at 23°30’ S. ina
broad, level, and pleasant valley on some bluffs over the river running
close to the city ; another river flows on the other side, and they unite
in front of the city. It will have 100 Spanish residents, mostly
muleteers, who freight flour, corn, cheese, and other foodstuffs to
the Chichas and Lipes mines; they have mule and cattle ranches,
and drive their stock to Potosi. There is a parish church here, and
Franciscan and Mercedarian convents. It has a few settlements
or parishes of Indians, apportioned to the residents of the city.
To the N. and S. it is bounded by large heathen provinces. At this
city the rough country ends and the great plains of the Tucuman
provinces begin; they surround it for more than 1,500 leagues. Carts
drawn by yokes of oxen travel from here as far as Buenos Ayres
and Paraguay, which is over 400 leagues.

1766. From Jujuy en route for the city of Esteco, one reaches
the Rio de Perico at 5 leagues; then the road passes through flat
country which is wooded, hot, and damp, for 5 leagues more to the city
of Salta la Nueva, otherwise known as Lerma, with a few Spanish
residents; Salta la Vieja is 2 leagues away. On leaving Salta for
the city of Esteco, one crosses two large rivers, one of which is near
the city; a league beyond this is another called the Rio de Siancas ;
on this stretch there are very fierce and crafty tigers. On coming
out of the woods, one arrives at the Urefia ranch; round about it
are a few small settlements. Two leagues before reaching the city
there is a large and rapid river to cross, called Rio del Pasaje; two
other small rivers have to be crossed between this and the city. On
this journey of 33 leagues between the city of Jujuy and that of
Esteco, there are countless wild cattle and game.

1767. The city of Nuestra Sefiora de Talavera de Madrid, in the
Indian language Esteco, is at 27° S.; it has a hot, damp climate,
which generates countless unpleasant creatures. There was another

672 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

settlement 7 leagues off which Gov. Alonso de la Ribera transferred
here in his time; they are also called Las Juntas. The city will have
250 Spanish residents, with a parish church, Franciscan, Mercedarian,
and Jesuit convents ; in its district are a few Indian villages or settle-
ments. The residents of this city have large cattle and mule ranches,
and most of them are teamsters. They have soap factories which
make large amounts of soap which they take to Potosi, with other
native products, cotton cloth and candlewicks.

1768. To the WSW. it is bounded by the Provinces of the Diaguitas,
warlike natives; this is forested and mountainous country, all paved
with veins of silver ore. To the N. it borders on the provinces
known as the Chaco, in which country it is reported that there are
large heathen settlements rich in gold and silver and abounding in
foodstuffs; hence that province is much coveted, and many have
desired to subdue it, and have tried and set out to do so, for they
feel sure that exploration will reveal in that quarter another kingdom
as important as that of Peru, judging by the information they possess
and the report current of the wealth of that country.

CHAPTER XXXV [25]

Of the City of San Miguel del Tucuman, etc.

1769. The city of San Miguel del Tucuman, from which this
Kingdom takes its name, lies more than 50 leagues S. of the city of
Esteco. It has as many as 250 Spanish residents ; its climate is very
hot and damp. It has in its neighborhood some Indian parishes in.
which are produced quantities of cotton cloth, canopies (pabellones),
bedspreads, and other elaborate products. There are mule and cattle
ranches in this district and it contains very fragrant and valuable
timber, and on its plains countless numbers of wild cattle. It is at
29° S. and occupies a pleasant site on the slopes of very high moun-
tains. It has an irrigation canal with which its vineyards, gardens,
and fields are watered ; on one side of it runs the Rio de la Quebrada
de Calchaqui, as well as others coming down from the Sierras. In
this country there are huge sluggish snakes over 4 fathoms long and
as large around as a man’s body; they are slow moving, and the
little progress they make is with many pauses; but God provides
them meat, as with all His creatures. Since they are so ponderous,
they cannot chase their game, and so Nature gave them a faculty of
attraction, so that if a turkey or other large bird is perched on a
tree, no matter how high it may be, and the snake succeeds in seeing
or perceiving or hearing it, by merely turning its head and breathing

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 673

toward it, it makes it come down from where it is, fluttering and
squawking, until it comes to the snake’s mouth; thus it satisfies its
hunger or at least ministers to its necessities.

1770. The same thing happens when game passes within its pur-
view or perception; with its breath it makes it approach, stumbling
like a drunken person and uttering loud cries, until it gets to the
snake’s mouth and is mauled and gobbled up, however large it may
be; such is the power of attraction which Nature gave it. When
other sources fail and it feels the need, it goes to the nests of the
ostriches, which are innumerable in that country, and swallows 10 or 12
eggs or as many as it needs. Since these are so large and the shell so
hard, it cannot crush them in swallowing and so it climbs up into
a tree, out on one of the lowest and thickest branches, and lets itself
drop belly down on the ground ; the shock of landing breaks the eggs,
and thus it satisfies its hunger and fulfills the instinct Nature pro-
vided it with; so our Creator should be glorified in all things.

There is another variety of snake which is long and slender, and
very harmful and noxious. This has a bone or prong at the end of
its tail like a spear head; they live in the trees and when a person
passes underneath they spring on him and try to throw two or three
coils around his body, squeezing and incapacitating him, and immedi-
ately try to pierce his groin with the tip of their tail, which is very
strong and sharp, so as to burst his intestines. The usual safeguard
against this is to carry a knife and when the snake coils about one,
to cut it in pieces and thus escape from the danger. God sees to
it that they are found in only a few places, and in those, people live
on their guard against them and travelers are warned about them.
I did not see them myself but I was assured of all this by persons who
have seen them.

CHAPTER XXXVI [26]

Of the City of Santiago del Estero, and of Other Things in Its
District.

1771. Eighty-five. Eighty (sic) leagues E. of the city of Esteco,
at 29° S., lies the city of Santiago del Estero; the whole way is level,
forming horizons like those at sea over the great pampas or plains
which they have in that country; most of the way is dotted with
cattle ranches ; there are great numbers of cattle, not only domesticated
but escaped (cimarron) or wild, as far as Paraguay and Buenos
Ayres ; there are countless ostriches, herds of deer numbering 1,000
or more in places, partridges small and large so stupid and unso-

44

674 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

phisticated that men traveling in the carts which do the freighting
in that Kingdom, or on horseback, catch them with slip nooses on
the ends of canes or sticks; there are turkeys, pheasants, quail,
pigeons, turtledoves, rabbits, tortoises, turtles, and other animals
like pigs, which they call tatuus (armadillos) and quirquinchus
(armadillos), which are all covered with scales and are so quick,
when they see somebody, and have such strength in snout and forefeet
that in an instant they dig a hole underground and brace themselves
so that even if they hear (oigan; for sigan; follow up?) them, they
cannot be pulled out by the strength of two or even four men; but
the task is made easy by running a small stick or something down
the anus; and by pulling all together on that; the animal loses its
strength and lets itself be drawn out easily. With regard to all these
animals and birds, be it understood that they occur in all these
provinces plentifully, and so repetition will be avoided.

1772. The city of Santiago del Estero contains the Cathedral for
these provinces, seat of the Bishop and Prebendaries who reside
there and serve it. The city will contain 400 Spanish and mestizo
residents, apart from the service Indians and Negroes. It has
Dominican, Franciscan, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, with a
hospital and other churches and shrines. It is the residence of the
Governor of those provinces, appointed by His Majesty in consulta-
tion with his Royal Council of the Indies; he is Captain General and
apportions the Indians who become available (vacan).

The city is built on the banks of a large river, and has a hot, dry
climate; it is 250 leagues from Potosi, In the city and the villages
of its neighborhood and district they manufacture quantities of cotton
cloth, canopies, bedspreads, chumbés, hats, alpargatas, grograms, and
other products. Its large river is full of shad (sabalos) and other
delicious fish, and on its banks are many gardens with Spanish and
native shade and fruit trees which yield abundantly; they have all
kinds of Spanish vegetables, and a few vineyards; this is all watered
from an irrigation canal.

The water of this great river is so health-giving that many bathe
in it to recover their health; and what is harmful everywhere else,
is wholesome here; for if a person arrives exhausted and in a
perspiration and wants to lose his fatigue and come out restored and
well again, a bath in it will refresh him and leave him energetic and
well; the same is true right after dining or eating supper; if one
feels a little indigestion, a mere bath in the river will cure it and

leave him well.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 675

1773. In its district it has fine large Indian villages or parishes
(reducciones), for that is the name they give Indian villages in that
Kingdom. On the road to Paraguay, 12 leagues to the ENE., is
the village of Estaile, and 14 leagues farther, that of Yuquiliguala,
built on the banks of a river called El Salado. In these they weave
much cotton cloth, etc., as in the city. Along the river banks upstream
there are in all this neighborhood many parishes of Indians from
the neighboring tribes. In this direction the Diocese and State hold
jurisdiction as far as Paraguay, over 80 leagues, up to the Rio Ber-
mejo, which belongs in the Diocese of Buenos Ayres and is the
boundary.

1774. It is almost all uninhabited country, without a watercourse,
and only a few wells or artificial cisterns where they store rain water
and travelers drink of it; there are some reservoirs of rain water
also for the cattle. The whole country is quite level, as has been
noted, with a few patches of woods and algarrobo thickets. In these
trees and underground quantities of honey are deposited by tiny bees
smaller than flies and very tame and unsuspicious. On these wastes
there are great numbers of all the game already mentioned and small
ant bears with snouts over a foot (media vara) long; they stick out
their tongues into ants’ nests and so feed on them. There are wild
or escaped (cimarrones) mares and horses in such numbers that
they cover the face of the earth and when they cross the road it is
necessary for travelers to wait and let them pass, for a whole day
or more, so as not to let them carry off tame stock with them; the
same is true of cattle. It is all like that as far as the Rio Bermejo,
where the Tucuman jurisdiction ends.

1775. Leaving Santiago for Cordoba on the Buenos Ayres road,
one comes to the village of Manogasta at 5 leagues ; in this and others
in the neighborhood they weave cloth, etc. One continues along the
banks of that great river, with small villages on both banks; and
at 20 leagues from Santiago another large river, called El Salado,
has to be crossed on rafts of the reeds called totora. Five leagues
beyond the Salado is the village of Acuna, where the Rio Grande
turns northward; a little farther on it sinks underground and forms
some lakes where there are many white egrets (garzas de martinetes)
and other water birds. That large river is seen no more; it must
run into the great Rio de la Plata.

676 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER XXXVII [27]

Of the Cities of La Rioja, Londres, etc.

1776. The city of La Rioja forms a triangle with those of Santiago
and Cordoba, in a southerly direction 54 leagues from Cordoba,
It is built on a level and placid plain, with bright skies and a hot
climate. This city has more than 2 leagues of orange groves, as
well as the other Spanish and native fruit trees. As one comes into
the city, since the orange trees, as a result of the country’s even
climate, are always covered and loaded down with blossoms, this
entrance to the city for that distance of 2 leagues is a lovely cheering
sight, with the trees loaded with fruit the whole year round, and
the great freshness and verdure; but what aids to make that spot
seem the terrestrial Paradise or a bit of Heaven is the fragrance,
sweetness, and perfume of the orange blossoms; from them they
make in that city quantities of orange blossom perfume and other
exquisite preserves.

1777. The city will have 250 Spanish residents; there is a parish
church and Dominican and Franciscan convents; in the year 1623
the Jesuits had the intention of erecting one. There are many vine-
yards around the city and they make much wine, which forms the
principal commerce of the city. For watering the vineyards and
gardens as well as the fields of wheat, corn, sweet potatoes, and
other root crops and cereals, a large irrigation canal provides for all,
drawn from a river which runs near the city; other smaller ones
run out of this for the service of the city, which is a bit of Paradise.
In the city and the Indian villages or parishes of its district, which
are peopled with civilized Indians, they make quantities of cloth
from their large crops of cotton. In its neighborhood it has many
cattle and mule ranches, and its plains are full of wild cattle and
horses, like all that Kingdom.

1778. Some 4o leagues from La Rioja, to the S., Capt. Juan Pérez
de Zorita founded in the year 1557 (1057 in MS) the city of Londres.
It has a hot climate, and is only a small settlement, with some parishes
of Indians of the Diaguitas and Juries tribes, as most are in the
Province of Tucuman. They have cattle and mule ranches and weave
quantities of cloth and the best canopies, bedspreads, and Indian
blankets in that Kingdom, in different colors; they dye them with
indigo, cochineal, and other dyes found in those provinces. While
the rivers in the Kingdom of Peru usually run from E. to W., from
the Sierras and the Cordillera to the Pacific, those in this Kingdom
run from W. to E., and they all flow into the great Rio de la Plata.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 677

In the district of this city, as in the majority of the whole Kingdom
of Tucuman, they gather quantities of algarroba (carob beans),
which is a very wholesome and nutritious food for the Indians ; they
make bread out of it, and wine too. There is much escaped or wild
cattle, as has been noted in other chapters.

CHAPTER XXXVIII [28]

Of the City of Cordoba in New Andalusia, Province of Tucuman,
and of What It Comprises in Its District.

1779. From the city of Santiago del Estero it is 85 leagues E. to
the city of Cordoba, which is the largest and best in this State. One
travels 30 leagues along the bank of the Rio Grande de Santiago,
as far as the parish of Acuna; farther on there are a few settlements
and ranches along the road up to the parishes of Torreblanca, El
Totoral, and others belonging to the residents of the city of Cordoba;
in these there are a few factories of woolen serge (jergueta), coarse
woolen cloth (sayales), grograms, hats, and Indian blankets.

1780. The city of Cordoba is at 32°30’; it has a good climate,
with a winter in which it snows, and a summer delightful for being
cool. The provinces round about it were subdued by Capt. Juan de
Tejeda Mirabal, Capt. Jeronimo de Bustamente, Gen. Don Pablo
de Meneses, and Captains Juan de Burgos and Alonso de la Camara,
and other captains and noble knights (Marg.: In Caltaqui, Capt.
Juan Pérez de Zorita) ; and when they had pacified all those provinces,
they founded the city in the year 1557 (1057 [1054] in MS; 1547?)
on a plain by the bank of a large river; and to secure it against
floods, strong walls have been put up on the river side.

1781. The city will have 500 Spanish residents, with many service
Indians and Negroes besides. All the construction is of remarkable
stone architecture; the streets are very straight, and it occupies the
area of a large city. It contains an excellent parish church, with
Dominican, Franciscan, and Mercedarian convents, and two wealthy
Jesuit establishments, the novitiate and that of the professed Fathers ;
this has a famous college on the university model, with courses in
Latin, Arts, and Theology, and they grant all degrees. There is
another college with ordinarily 40 collegians with blue sashes. It
has three convents of nuns: one of Santa Catalina de Siena, under
the regular rule; another of Barefoot Carmelite nuns, named Santa
Teresa de Jesus; this was established in the residence of Gen. Don
Pablo de Meneses, by a [daughter] granddaughter of his, daughter
of Capt. Juan de Tejeda. The convent of Santa Clara was founded

678 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

outside the city by a sister of Tristan de Tejeda, and is the most
modern. There is a hospital for the care of the indigent sick; it is
poverty-stricken, and such a pious work ought properly to be assisted.
As one leaves the city there is a shrine of the glorious San Roque.

1782. The country abounds in wheat, corn, chickpeas, and other
cereals, and root crops like potatoes, camotes (which are sweet pota-
toes), achiras, and others; they have all kinds of Spanish fruit, such
as pears, large and small peaches, albérchigo peaches, apricots, quinces,
pomegranates, figs, mazard cherries, oranges, citrons, grapefruit,
lemons, frutilla de Chile, and other fruits; there are numerous vine-
yards, with all varieties of vidufio vines with white and black grapes ;
there are many roses, pinks for almost all the year, and other fragrant
flowers. The gardens, flower beds, vineyards, and fields round about
the city are watered by irrigation from a large canal derived from
the river more than 2 leagues above the city; every year it is cleaned
out by over 400 Indians and Negroes, for it fertilizes their fields
and crops; it flows later through Santo Domingo; many other chan-
nels branch off it for the city’s supply and service, and then it runs
through the center of the city plaza, where there is a small tower
like a fort.

1783. There are two horse-power gristmills (atajonas) inside the
city, and some water-power gristmills outside for grinding wheat ;
it has some looms (telares) where they weave and finish colored
blankets, which are the ordinary clothing of the Indians; near the
Franciscan convent there are many algarrobos, which are green the
whole year and full of carob beans; the city is plentifully supplied
with everything necessary for human life and has fine meadows where
they raise all kinds of livestock. It is a busy commercial center,
being a junction point for all that country, for Tucuman, and Buenos
Ayres, and the necessary passage point for the Kingdom of Chile,
from which much livestock comes via the Province of Cuyo, such as
sheep and goats being driven to Potosi; much cattle comes from
the city of Santa Fé.

1784. The principal business in this city of Cordoba is its great
mule ranches and the quantities of cloth manufactured in the Indian
villages in its district, over 40 in number, such as those of Don Pedro
de Cabrera, Juan de Tejedo, Quilambe (which is 12 leagues off in
the sierra) and Liquiman, Costasacate (which is 8 leagues away on
the Buenos Ayres road) and in the same direction 20 leagues from
the city, Rio Tercero, on which is the parish of Don Rodrigo de
Guzman, and other settlements on the banks of that same river; on
the banks of the Rio Cuarto, 30 leagues toward Chile, there are other

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 679

parishes. In the majority of these there is much cotton, and they
use this and wool for the manufacture of coarse cloth (sayales),
serge (jerguetas), high-grade cloth (lienzo), hats, blankets, and other
textiles for Indian wear.

1785. The river running by the city has many kinds of delicious
fish, such as mojarras, bagres, shad (sabalos), dentudos, and others.
The sierra begins some 2 leagues from the city; in it there are many
valleys with other parishes, where they raise much wheat, corn, and
other cereals and vegetables; there are silver mines; it abounds in
everything. On all those plains and pampas there are many stray
horses and mares, guanacos, and deer in such numbers that they
cover the earth; these latter have very good bezoar stones; many
ostriches, partridges, quail, pigeons, doves, armadillos (quirquinchus),
and so many other animals and birds that it would be an endless
task to catalog them.

CHAPTER XXXIX [29]

Of the Boundaries of the Diocese and State of Tucuman.

1786. The State of Tucuman is bounded on the [W.] N. by the
Province of Los Chichas in the Archdiocese of the Charcas; in that
quarter it begins with the Omaguaca Valley. On the W. it borders
on the Kingdom of Chile, although there are large heathen provinces
in between the two Kingdoms, still to be subdued. On the ENE. it
is bounded by the Rio Bermejo, the city of Asuncion, and the
Provinces of Paraguay, and on the S., by the provinces and tribes
which are yet to be conquered, down to the Straits. From NE. to
SW. it is nearly 300 leagues long and in some parts 100 leagues wide,
in others less. In this Diocese and State there are eight cities estab-
lished: Santiago del Estero, called Trapalanda in the Indian lan-
guage, and the capital of that kingdom; to the NW., the cities of
Esteco and Jujuy, where the Rio Bermejo rises; it is joined by
many other large streams running between the volcano and Esteco,
and still others, so that it is a mighty river when it enters the Rio
de la Plata, which it swells considerably. The other cities are San
Miguel, La Rioja, and Cordoba.

1787. The city of Salta or Lerma lies between Jujuy and Esteco;
it has only a few residents although it is rich in fertile land and
lovely valleys plentifully watered. In its neighborhood are also the
Calchaqui Valley, the villages of Casabindo, Sococha, Cochinca,
Moreta, and the tribe of the Apamatas and other large heathen
provinces. If the few Spaniards there could find it possible to

680 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I02

subdue and convert them, thus making travel safe for those coming
from Peru to that Kingdom, it would be an important achievement ;
in fact, it should be energetically prosecuted and that settlement
should be charged with the task, favors being granted to those going
on the expedition ; thus those tribes would be converted to the Faith
and the country would be very rich.

1788. Much heed should be paid also to the city of Londres; this
is established in the Quinmibil Valley over toward Chile, in the
neighborhood of the Diaguitas Indian tribe; all its ranges are paved
with silver and gold ore and the Londres district itself has a mar-
velous climate and very fertile meadows and valleys with vineyards
and abundant yields of corn and wheat, and all kinds of Spanish
fruit. An increase in its population would bring these tribes into
the Faith and would connect the Kingdoms of Peru and Chile more
easily with those of Tucuman and Paraguay.

1789. On the slopes of the mountain ranges of Tarija and Chichas,
to the E., the plains of Paraguay are situated or start, near the Rio
Bermejo; it is quite necessary that a Spanish settlement should
be put here; in between there are large provinces of reasonable
heathen Indians to be brought into the Faith; with the fertility of
that country, it would be very rich, and a road could easily and
quickly be opened to Buenos Ayres, abandoning the great detours
which are made through Tucuman.

CuaptTer XL [30]

Of the District of the Diocese and State of Paraguay.

1790. Going from the State and Diocese of Tucuman to Paraguay,
one passes through the cities of Rio Bermejo, 34 leagues beyond
which is Siete Corrientes, at which the city of San Juan de Vera
has been built, and which belong to the Diocese and State of Buenos
Ayres.

1791. At Siete Corrientes one goes on board rafts built of dugouts
on the Rio del Paraguay, which empties at Siete Corrientes into
the Rio de la Plata. This Rio Paraguay is very constricted and deep ;
at this point it will be over } league wide, and so deep-sea galleons
can sail up here. It is 70 leagues upstream from Siete Corrientes
to Asuncion; the river passes through flat country and runs very
gently ; its banks are all covered with woods and handsome groves,
a delightful sight, so that it appears a bit of Paradise; there are
countless birds in them, of variegated and beautiful colors, and
singing in sweet harmony; there are many sorts of parrots, macaws,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 681

muytus, which are very large and handsome turkeys; herons both
white and of other colors, with very fine aigrettes on their heads;
other birds sky-blue in color and very handsome, called maynimbi ;
and the mysterious macangua[y] bird, which is the size of a small
cock, with a crest, and variegated in white, gray, and other colors,
and they say it lives on vipers. Its method of killing them to eat
is to perch on guard in a tree to watch till the viper comes out to
eat or sun itself ; when it sees it, it dashes in to fight with it, shielding
itself and parrying with its short wings and aiming blows at its eyes
until it puts them out and kills it; and if by chance the snake succeeds
in biting or stinging it, it sets off at once and picks and eats the
herb called macanguaca, which combines the name of the bird and
of herb, which is ca in the Indian language of that country; and
after eating this it returns to the fight until it kills it. The herb
resembles maidenhair fern, except that its leaves are arranged like
a cross; it has very great efficacy against poison, whose effects are
instantly counteracted by eating this herb.

1792. The river is very full of fish; there are shad (sabalos),
dorados, pacts, which are round and snub-nosed like rays; curubis,
which are long and pointed like a needle and scaleless; patis, which
are like dogfish, without scales and with flesh yellow as saffron;
palometas, and abundance of small crayfish which they call piquiras,
and which are so plentiful that with a sieve and a bit of bacon by
moonlight one can catch quantities of them; they are very wholesome
food and the recourse of many poor people.

1793. In that river there is a sort of lizard about a vara and a
half long, spotted all over with yellow and dark gray; it is called
yacarete in the Indian language; it has a very strong musky smell
and is very harmful. In those forests there are tigers, ounces, and
bears with tails so long that when it rains they cover their heads
with them; and there are other curiosities in that country such that
it is impossible to describe them or refer to them.

Cuapter XLI [31]

Of the City of Asuncion, Capital of the Diocese and State of
Paraguay.

1794. The city of Asuncion was founded by Captains Juan de
Ayolas and Juan de Salazar Espinosa by order of Gov. Don Pedro
de Mendoza in the year 1536, on some tall bluffs on the banks of
the great Rio Paraguay. They go down from the city to the river
for water for the city service by paths down the bluff. The city

682 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

was built in the plain on these bluffs because of the river floods, and
although all those plains or pampas may be covered, they never reach
the city on account of its lofty site. It lies in 25° S. and has a hot
climate, although with winter and summer, the reverse of in Spain.

1795. The city will have over 650 Spanish residents, of whom
250 will be encomenderos de Indios; there will be in the city 11,000
mujeres de manto, as was stated on the authority and testimony of
the curates’ lists in the year 1623. This city is the residence of the
Bishop and of the Governor who is appointed by His Majesty in
consultation with his Royal Council of the Indies. He is Captain
General over all the district and apportions the Indians who become
available and are newly converted in all those regions, in which there
are still many tribes and provinces to subdue.

1796. There is a very fine Cathedral with three naves, all built
of urundey wood which is very valuable and the best to be had in
all the Indies, very fragrant and hard. It is all very elaborately
wrought and finished. The roof is of palm-wood shingles, each
2 or 3 yards long; these are better than clay tiles, being lighter and
not liable to crack and lasting 50 years before needing renewal ;
it has a wooden bell tower with four bells. This church has very
rich and costly ornaments, sent to it by the Emperor Charles V
of glorious memory when it was built. That church is very well
served, the Bishop and Prebendaries being in attendance, and _ its
orchestra.

1797. It has Dominican, Franciscan, Mercedarian, and Jesuit con-
vents, the latter also maintaining its college and seminary, where
the sons of this country study. This and the Mercedarian convent
stand on the Plaza. Besides the Cathedral there are two parishes;
one is named Nuestra Senora del Rosario and has a curate for
Spaniards; the other parish is named San Blas; it is for Indians
and has a curate to catechize them and administer the Holy Sacra-
ments. There is a hospital for the care of the indigent sick, and
two shrines at the entrance to the city, one dedicated to San Roque
and the other to Santa Lucia. It has a house for orphan girls which
was established by a sainted lady named Francisca de Bocanegra ;
here are gathered together over 100 women, young orphan girls,
widows, and married women, who in great retirement and with pious
example support themselves by their industry and labor and with
a few contributions which are given them.

1798. The site of the city is marvelous and superb, with a fine
view, since it is up on a height, from which one can see on the other
side of the river wide plains and fields bare of trees and covered

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 683

with numberless herds of cattle, mares, horses, deer, ostriches, and
many other kinds of animals and feathered game. Along the river
bank where the city is built there is much woods and tall timber.
The city has a marvelous climate, more hot than cold, although they
have winter and summer. Near the city there are many vineyards
from which excellent wine is made, and near what they call the Cruz
de Pantaleon there are iron mines.

1799. In the district of this city there are 200 sugarcane grinding
mills to produce sugar, and a Jesuit establishment with millstones
to grind wheat. There are many kinds of Spanish and native fruit—
oranges, citrons, grapefruit, from which delicious marmalade is
made ; they harvest abundance of wheat, corn, barley, sweet potatoes,
many varieties of mandioc, whose nature I shall explain in another
chapter, yucca, jicamas (which they call bacucu), bananas (platanos),
which they call pacobas and in Brazil, bananas; pineapples (pifias),
which they call ananas; ambaybas, which are a fruit the shape of
one’s hand and tasting like a dried fig; the tree producing this fruit
is larger than a fig tree, and its leaf, in color like a friar’s gown,
is much larger than a fig leaf. There is another fruit called guambé
which is of the shape and size of an ear of corn, and is as sweet to
eat as a lump of sugar; the plant it grows on is like an artichoke,
but somewhat larger, and its leaves are much larger than grape
leaves. There are many other kinds of wild fruit, impossible to
enumerate.

1800. Round about in its neighborhood, the city has many Indian
villages, like Elita, a Franciscan parish with 500 Indians; Yaguarén,
with 400; Los Altos, Tobati, all reasonable Indians; Tuyabacoba,
which means old man without a face; Yuti, a village of over 600
Indians, catechized by the Jesuit Fathers; Guarambe, and many
others.

1801. Across the river and opposite the city are the tribe of the
Guaycurus, a degenerate and indolent people; they go naked, they
neither sow nor reap, they live on game and fish, and are great shots
with their arrows. The Jesuit Fathers have them under their charge
and work hard with them, but since they are such a worthless race,
they accomplish little, for this savage tribe, besides being so indolent,
have no habitations beyond a few mats, which they take along to
another spot when they so wish; and though the country where they
live is bare, with no woods or forests, they are hard to overcome,
for when it rains the whole country is flooded, since it is very flat
and has no watercourses, so that it all becomes a sea and they travel

684 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

many leagues over it in dugouts; when it stops raining, it dries off
immediately. This country is full of cattle.

Cuapter XLII [32]

Continuing the Account of the Customs of the Tribe of the Guay-
curtis, and Other Features of the District of the City.

1802. The Indians of this Guaycurt tribe are very warlike and
savage, and have greatly molested the peaceable Indians in the region,
nor have the Spanish residents been able to help matters. When
they are not on the warpath they wear as a sign of it a net over
their head like a coif; they act like stallions with mares with their
young women, to debauch them, and for that reason each has his
home or eStablishment off by himself. When they go to war and
want to show they have fought bravely and killed their foes, they
have a barbarous custom, initiated by the Devil and a bestial practice ;
it is as follows: to prove that a young man has been courageous,
for which reason they entitle him a warrior, and to make him con-
sidered and respected as such they hold an assembly before the
cacique their leader, and all the men of the tribe, and he chooses
two sponsors from among the bravest; a quantity of their beverage
has been provided, and they have a formal drinking bout. Then
they put the new warrior who is to receive this title, before the
cacique, with his sponsors beside him; and after having given him
a long talk about the dignity of the title of warrior which they are
bestowing upon him, and drinking a toast to his sponsors, they pierce
his penis with a very sharp-pointed bone from a ray, and run it
through; and squeezing out that blood, they anoint and wash his
face and breasts with it, as a sign of the bravery he will have to
demonstrate and of the title of warrior which they confer upon him;
and then the cacique sets him beside him, to honor him and drinks
his health. Thus he is made one of the warriors and given the title
of brave. They carry out this barbarous custom at all lunar con-
junctions. They go naked, with nothing but a tendon from a horse
or a deer attached to the left wrist, for their bowstring, and with
another tied around the waist. They part their hair into plaits
(? tresquilan a carreras) and paint themselves with different colors ;
they pierce the tip of the nose and insert a feather of a parrot or
other bird ; they pierce the ears and the lip also, and from these holes
they suspend numerous stones of different colors; they likewise put
on a sort of diadem with different sorts of colored feathers, for their
festivals and drinking bouts.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 685

1803. When their cacique or lord dies, some of the bravest warriors
volunteer to die with him. After the death they get together a large
amount of wine, which they make from honey which is plentiful,
and then carry the body to a pleasant spot and neighborhood, already
prepared ; and there before the dead body they carry out their drink-
ing ceremonial; and when they are exhausted with the celebration
and are intoxicated, they beg others to suffocate them so that they
can keep their master company, to serve him as counselors; and
when they bury him, they put them at his side; then they at once
kill an equal number of boys and lay them at their feet, for them to
serve them there; and they set beside them their bows, arrows, war
clubs (macanas) and bolas with rope, and food and drink for the
journey ; and after doing this they cover over the vault or cave and
leave them.

1804. When the sons of caciques are to be formally named, which
is the same as being christened, the Indians first go off to war and
bring in captive some of the enemy’s boys. They put these in front
of the cacique’s son and set a stout cudgel in his hand, with which
he gives it to the wretched boys on their heads and necks until he
kills them, repeating “My name is N.” This custom has been so
ingrained by the Devil that when Don Francisco de Alfaro, Circuit
Court Justice of the Charcas, was on a tour of inspection of those
provinces, the Jesuit Fathers, who were charged with the catechizing
of that parish and who wished to give greater solemnity to the cere-
mony with the Justice’s presence, persuaded the cacique to have his
son baptized, a boy some 13 years old. His godfathers were the
Justice and Diego Marin Negron, who was the Governor, so they
gave him the name of Don Francisco de Alfaro Diego Marin Negron.
These Indians belonged to an army captain, one of the original
pioneers in that country, named Alonso de Cabrera.

1805. The Indians went back home; and reflecting that the name
was too long and that he had not been properly christened, they
went off to war and brought in six boys. Then they renamed the
cacique’s son in the manner above described, giving him a cudgel
with which he killed the boys, repeating “My name is Alonso de
Cabrera,” after which they came greatly pleased to inform the padre
who catechized them, that they had now given the cacique’s son a
better christening and had named him Alonso de Cabrera, because
the other name was too long, and they told him what they had done.
This must suffice for this savage tribe, in order that we may continue
with the description of the Diocese in the following chapter.

686 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Cuapter XLIII [33]

Of Other Provinces and Tribes, and of the Maracayt, from Which
They Get the So-called Yerba Santa of Paraguay.

1806. Upstream beyond the Province of the Guaycurtts is the
Province of the Payagua tribe, bordering on the Guaycurts; they
are usually on the water, have the same customs in every respect as
their neighbors, and go naked. The village of Maracayt is 60 leagues
upstream from the city; these are tame Indians and do household
service in the city of Asuncion; it is here that they prepare the herb
which is the usual remedy in that country; it is 60 leagues from the
city of Asuncion, and is a large village with more than 700 Indians,
good and intelligent people; they are farmers. The village of Jujuy
comes before this; it is built on the river bank and will have 200
Indians, farmers ; it has the same hot climate. Then comes the village
of Terecafié, 7 leagues inland from Maracayt, and the village of
Guirapariya, with over 500 Indians, at 4 leagues’ distance.

1807. In Maracaytt they gather the yerba santa, which grows in
those wide plains between the Rio Paraguay and the Rio de la Plata,
on damp ground. The tree is the size of an orange tree and the leaf
like an orange leaf but thicker, very moist, round, and without a point.
The tree is very brittle, so much so that it can be broken easily
anywhere, no matter how thick the branch. They collect large amounts
of this leaf or herb and it is worth many ducats; it is exploited by
the Spanish residents of Guaira and Villa Rica and all that country.

1808. This yerba santa, as they call it, is very cooling and purga-
tive ; it is taken in a large amount of hot water, which causes vomiting
and gets rid of phlegm and bile. Those who take this remedy lead
very healthy lives in that country and live many years. The natives
of that country esteem it highly, as the Peruvian Indians do coca,
and smokers, tobacco.

1809. The city of Guaira is built beside the Rio de la Plata 30
leagues from Maracaytt; it will have 200 Spanish residents. It is
hot and heavily wooded country; cattle do not breed here, and so
they bring their table beef up from Paraguay. In that country cows
grow hair a palm long, and bulls lose their bellow; horses die off ;
there is no salt. In this country they raise mandioc, corn, kidney
beans, and other vegetables. It is very wretched country; there is
abundance of tapirs (dantas), deer, hogs, and fowls, with which
the Spaniards eke out a pitiful and wretched existence. It is go
leagues from Asuncion, on the Rio de la Plata, 4 league from the
Falls, which they call Salto, at the narrows of the Rio de la Plata,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 687

that wide, deep river ; its least breadth is a league, and at the Salto,
it is compressed between 2 cliffs so close that a stone can be thrown
from one to the other.

The water falls between these cleft rocks so deep into the abyss
that the mist which rises can be seen and made out from 10 or 12
leagues away. The Indians in this region are of the Guarani tribe,
and good domesticated people; they serve the residents of this city
and gather quantities of cotton, from which they make cloth for
wearing apparel.

1810. From this city of Guaira it is 70 leagues to the ENE. over
country all of it wooded, toward the Brazilian province of Sao Paulo,
to Villa Rica (rich), or rather, Pobre (poor), which is 200 leagues
from Brazil. Villa Rica has the same climate as the city of Guaira
and the same products and misfortune—in fact, greater, since in
that wretched country with the extreme poverty of the Spaniards
living there, they have no priest to administer the Holy Sacraments,
and so they are like savages without a country, never hearing Mass,
and their children go 7 or 8 years without being christened. Rather
than live this way, it would be preferable for the Bishop either to
appoint some priest for them or else have the settlement abandoned.
The Spaniards living here are so poor that their only clothes are of
cotton and they wear palm-leaf hats, for no Spanish merchandise
ever gets here, and they haye nothing with which to buy any. They
gather some wax and honey from the trees and make a few hammocks.

1811. Fifteen leagues from Villa Rica there is a large, high moun-
tain range which has a large deposit of stone coconuts; these have
much fine rock crystal inside, blue, white, purple, ruby, and other
colors. The outside of these coconuts is fine flint; the rock crystals
inside are worked to a diamond point; when they are ripe, at the
proper moment, the coconut bursts with a loud noise which it makes,
and breaks the stone. Thirty leagues from this range and thirty
from Villa Rica, forming a triangle with the two, is the Tambo,
del Hierro (Iron), so named from the quantity found there and
exploited for the State. The Indians in this neighborhood and at
Villa Rica belong to the Guarani tribe. These villages and this tribe
border on the Brazilian sertao and warlike Indians; the Portuguese
raid the natives from there and carry them off captive for their service.

1812. The city of Jerez is 80 leagues inland to the W. of the city
of Asuncion, on the road to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. It has a good
climate and will contain 60 Spanish residents. They have large cattle
ranches with many Indians and parishes of various tribes, such as
the Tapaguasts, Payzunoes, Arrianacosies, Socorines, Xaqueses,

688 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Guaxarapos, Chirigones, and other tribes. Sugarcane and much other
fruit grows there ; the country has a good climate. They gather great
quantities of wax and honey in the woods; most of that country is
supplied with wax from this place and its jurisdiction. Its parishes
under peaceable régime are Yputtt, Guarambaré, and Los Litatines,
who are great farmers; they serve this city. The above is what is
comprised in the district of this Diocese and State; there are four
cities with Spanish residents in the district, as already described—
Asuncion, La Guaira, Villa Rica, and Jerez; and besides the prov-
inces and tribes already subdued, there are along its borders countless
others to be brought into the Faith.

CHAPTER XLIV [34]

Of the District of the Diocese and State of Buenos Ayres.

1813. From the city of Asuncién to go to the district of Buenos
Ayres, one turns back and goes downstream from Siete Corrientes,
where the city of San Juan de Vera has been established, with as
many as 40 Spanish residents, on some bluffs above the Rio de la
Plata. This place is called Taraguir6 in the Indian language, which
means newt, but it is also generally called Siete Corrientes (Seven
Currents), because the city is built on a lofty bluff which has seven
points, which form seven eddies with the union of the rivers here,
and so they have given it this name.

1814. The Indians who serve the Spaniards in this little city are
of the Guarani tribe, living along this same Rio de la Plata. Some
of them are peaceable, but most are warlike. They go naked, are
indolent, live on game and fish, and have no covering but mats in
their settlements, for the excellent climate of that country makes
everything possible.

1815. The city of San Juan de Vera has a hot climate and an
excellent site, built as it is above the Rio de la Plata. It belongs
to the Diocese of Buenos Ayres, from which it is a little under 300
leagues distant; it has a Franciscan convent. They raise wheat, corn,
and mandioc, which is a root from which they make a fair flour; the
plant looks like elder (sauco). To grow it they put a bit of the stalk
or stem underground, and within 3 months it is ripe. In preparing
it for eating, since its juice is poisonous, they first put it in water
to soak and lose the poison; after that it is good food and has a
delicious taste; from its flour they make porridge and baypi, which
is a kind of soup, and other dishes and stews.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 689

1816. They have potatoes and some kinds of Spanish fruit, but
the soil is so rich that in order to get fruit and have it ripen, they
beat (apalean) the trees or bore into them, otherwise it all goes
into growth and the fruit is knotty. The chief commerce of the
residents of this country is in hides and in a large carting trade with
Tucuman and Buenos Ayres; this is the border point for the Dioceses
and States of Paraguay and Buenos Ayres.

1817. From this city of Siete Corrientes it is 34 leagues in the
direction of Tucuman to the city of San Jeronimo del Rio Bermejo.
This is built half a league from the river toward Tucuman, and is
the boundary where the Dioceses and States of Tucuman and Buenos
Ayres meet. The river is deep and narrow ; it comes from the valleys
of Jujuy, at the very beginning of the State of Tucuman; many
other rivers empty into it, so that it is a large stream here, but its
water is brackish and not drinkable ; it has quantities of delicious fish.

1818. The city of San Jeronimo del Rio Bermejo is at 26°40’ S.
It is built on a high and prominent plateau, and will have too Spanish
residents, with a Franciscan convent and a parish church with a
friar as its curate for the administration of the Holy Sacraments.
It belongs to the Diocese of Buenos Ayres, from which it is 220
leagues distant, and the same from Santa Fé. Twenty-five leagues
from this city there is a large river which rises in Peru in the district
of La Paz and the Charcas and is called Pilcomayu; it sinks under-
ground in this region and comes out again some 6 leagues from
Rio Bermejo. When it is the rainy season in Peru it reaches such
a high flood stage in this region that in Holy Week or some 15 days
before or after, according as Lent comes early or late, since the land
is flat, it floods it for over 100 leagues, and 30 at its narrowest
point; this freshet lasts usually some 2 months, and makes a sea
out of all this country. They go all over it in boats catching quantities
of fish which come up from the Rio de la Plata and spread over
all this country ; these are shad (sabalos), dorados, palometas, which
are larger and broader than mojarras and have two rows of teeth;
they are delicious fish; there are many other kinds, which make up
their fish harvest, besides what they get of what is stranded in the
ponds and pools when the river returns to its bed.

When the flood is over, the land stays full of water and spongy ;
they sow wheat, corn, and other cereals, cotton, melons, watermelons,
which grow very large, fruit and vegetables, so that with this flood,
like that of the Nile, they get an abundant harvest, and it is God’s
providence for them, for in that country they have very little rain.

45

690 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1819. There are a few settlements in the district, the principal
ones being Yastato and Los Ojomas, who are peaceable, and others,
apart from many tribes which are yet to be converted. In this city
and its district they make quantities of cotton stockings, canopies,
bedspreads, and other elaborate and highly esteemed products ; there
are many herons from which they get fine aigrettes. They gather
much wax and honey; although the country is flat, there is much
woods and forests; they get quantities of algarroba, from which
the Indians get their vintage of wine, which is an agreeable drink.

CHapTerR XLV [35]

Continuing with the District of the Diocese and State, as far as
Santa Fé.

1820. Returning from Rio Bermejo to Siete Corrientes, it is a
journey of 120 leagues to Santa Fé through a wilderness, although
there are a few Indian parishes ; but the natives do not render service,
and for that reason, since most of the Indians are usually in revolt
and on the warpath, the ordinary route to Santa Fé is down the
Rio de la Plata, which is 2 or 3 leagues wide at Siete Corrientes,
and so are the bluffs; and as for the marshes and overflowed land,
they are 15, 20, or 30 leagues across. It is wooded and cool along
the banks of this mighty river, and the forests are a very delightful
and cheering sight.

1821. Along the banks there are settlements of warlike Guarani
Indians, and a few that are peaceable. On the Tucuman side as one
travels to Buenos Ayres, there are vast plains they call pampas, on
which there are occasionally patches of trees, but very few. The
plains are inhabited by Baguales Indians, a naked tribe, for the
climate allows of everything; at the most they wear a deerskin.
These go on the warpath and at other times live peaceably, as best
suits them; they are apportioned for service (encomendados) in
Buenos Ayres, but they are no good.

1822. Over these pampas rove countless numbers of cattle, mares,
and horses, for the most part cimarrén (stray) or wild; ostriches,
which cover the earth; if an industry could be created in their plumes
and trade be built up in them, great quantities could be exported to
Spain, for they are excellent and of many colors, and many people
would prosper in the trade. There are herds of deer covering the
earth, and all sorts of game, for a distance of 70 leagues between
Las Corrientes and Santa Fé. Along the banks of the river there
are many other tribes living there, such as the Carcarafias, Quirondas,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 691

Camis, Quivalsas, Calchines, Mecoretas, Mepenes, Canas, and other
tribes, all naked and savage in their customs and their reasoning ;
they wear skins and live by hunting and fishing.

CHAPTER XLVI

Of the City of Santa Fé and Its District.

1823. The city of Santa Fé is built on a high bluff on the Tucuman
bank of the Rio de la Plata; the city has a marvelous location. It
will have 150 Spanish residents ; the Governor of Buenos Ayres keeps
a deputy here. It has a parish church and Dominican and Franciscan
convents. In its district they raise abundance of wheat, corn, and
other cereals, with all kinds of Spanish, and some native, fruit. There
are many vineyards, from which they make quantities of wine ranking
among the best in that country; it is very delicious, abundant, and
cheap.

1824. Opposite the city there is an island in the river 3 leagues
long, on which the residents keep the mules and horses for their
service, with other possessions of importance. There is much cattle
in the district, from which the residents make quantities of hides
which they export to Spain, and much is taken to the city of Cordoba
in Tucuman, which is 60 leagues away, and to Potosi; a cow is
usually worth 2 reals in this country, and if one buys a lot, it costs
less. There are large mule ranches.

1825. Near the city there are a few Indian parishes for its service,
and the tribe of the Calchaquies, who are a warlike people, and go
naked ; they keep those plains and the river banks covered with their
cabins (habitaciones) and overflow and spread over all of it. Next
them come the Baguales tribe and others.

1826. That whole country is covered with wild cattle, ostriches,
and capybaras, which are like water hogs; they have them only in
those parts of the Indies. They always live in the water, but come
out also on land to feed and to sleep; the females menstruate. There
are large numbers of seals. Almost all this country is bare pampa,
although there are patches of woods. Near Santa Fé are the Provinces
of Uruguay, Tape, and Viaza, people who wear clothing, and who are
all farmers and good people; Don Francisco de Céspedes, Governor
of Buenos Ayres, tried to subdue them.

1827. The journey from Santa Fé to Buenos Ayres is 85 leagues
and is made by river. The farther side of the river is occupied by
Guaranies, with a few peaceable parishes. The journey is also made
overland in large carts (carros) or long, narrow carts (carretas)

692 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

with oxen over those plains; at 30 leagues from Santa Fé on the
road there is an Indian parish called Los Chanas ; these are peaceable
and in service. All this country is covered with cattle.

CHAPTER XLVII [37]

Of the City of Trinidad and the Port of Buenos Ayres.

1828. The city of Trinidad and port of Buenos Ayres is 60 leagues
from the sea up the river, which is another 60 leagues wide at that
point. The city has more than 200 Spanish residents; it is built on
a high plateau on a bluff over this same Rio de la Plata. The Cathedral
is situated in this city, with a Bishop and Prebendaries who reside
there and serve it; it has a Governor appointed by His Majesty in
consultation with the Royal Council of the Indies; there are Domini-
can, Franciscan, Mercedarian, and Jesuit convents, a hospital, and
other shrines; there are Officials of the Royal Patrimony. This
city and port is the usual goal of ships from Angola with Negroes,
from Brazil and elsewhere; speaking generally, they have to put
in here, for in that part of the world there is no other spot where
they can take refuge and stay. And so for the relief and good
administration of all those far-flung provinces and for that port,
it would be highly desirable that a Circuit Court be established here,
either by taking one Justice from each court, or by transferring here
or to the city of Cordoba the Circuit Court of Santiago de Chile,
since it is not essential in that Kingdom, and the distance here is
so great from the Charcas. That step would remedy many evils and
put an end to great abuses which the poor suffer because they cannot
afford such a long journey to appeal for justice; and under the pro-
tection of the Circuit Court that country would be better settled and all
the tribes to be subdued would be converted and that country would
be very rich and tranquil.

In that district they raise much wheat, corn, and all kinds of
Spanish fruit; there are vineyards from which some wine is pro-
duced, but it is also imported from the Province of Cuyo. The
country is full of game—partridges, rabbits, quail, pheasants, turkeys,
guinea hens, deer, ostriches, and many other animals and birds.

1829. On the other side of the Rio de la Plata, which is called in
the Indian language the great Parana, and the Indians themselves
Paranas, they border on the Charrtas tribe. This is very large and
widespread ; they go naked, some covering themselves with deerskins.
Sometimes they are at peace and other times at war, as best suits
them. When a ship drives on the coast and is wrecked, they capture
the people on board, and with great caution and secrecy (so that

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 693

the Spaniards shall not learn that they are kidnapping them) they
sell them off to the Guarani Indians for a dog or a knife or glass
beads or axes.

When a marriage is to take place they call a meeting at an ap-
pointed place, and the cacique orders everyone to come to where
they are to marry off the bride with his arrow and bow, and to bring
a pelt or other article as a present, each according to his means;
and when they have gathered, the cacique goes in first to enjoy the
bride, and then the others in due order, each presenting what he has
brought toward her dowry, and the last of all is the husband; and
with this barbarous and bestial procedure, they are duly married.

They have another savage custom: when father or mother or some
close relative dies, as a sign of grief and mourning they cut off a
finger or toe joint, cutting off as many as they have lost relatives
by death, until they may even get completely maimed in hands and
feet, and those who have cut off the most joints are held and respected
as the most honored.

1830. Some 16 leagues from the city there is another tribe of very
barbarous Indians called the Pampas. These have never been pacified
nor can they be brought to listen to reason. They go naked; their
country is flat; they are great shots with rope bolas, spears, and
arrows. It is their custom, when a marriage is to take place, for the
young man to take a fagot of wood to his future father-in-law’s
home and lay it at the door and then retire and hide where they
cannot see him, but he can see if they pick up the fagot; and if they
take it inside, that means that the marriage and matrimonial cere-
mony is a fact, and he goes at once to his father-in-law’s home without
further formality and takes the bride as his own; but if they do not
take in the fagot, off he goes, for they do not want him. These
barbarous savages have the custom, when father or mother or son
dies, of skinning and eating him; they stuff the skin with straw and
keep it as a memento, saying that they cannot keep him better than
inside themselves, nor give him a better resting place.

They neither sow nor trade; they are unconquerable for their
country gets flooded; when it rains, it all becomes a sea; and so,
although they are so near the city, for this reason and their great
bestiality, they have never been subdued. If they catch any Spaniard,
his sad fate is to be put in a corral or cage like a pig to be fattened
and eaten. There are many other very savage tribes in those regions,
impossible to enumerate.

1831. From this city to that of Cordoba, which is the boundary
with the Diocese and State of Tucuman, it is 120 leagues of level

694 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

road. At 6 leagues is a river called the Rio de Lujan; 3 leagues
farther, [another called] the Rio de los Arrecifes; but for all the
rest of the 120 leagues there is no other river or spring; travelers
drink at wells dug by hand, from day’s journey to day’s journey ;
there are a few tanks for the cattle. There are some ranches and
Indian parishes near the cities; all the rest of the way is uninhabited
but all those plains are covered with escaped (cimarrones) mares
and horses in such numbers that when they go anywhere they look
like woods from a distance ; it is the same with cattle in some places.
There are countless deer, guanacos, partridges, quail, and ostriches,
for all those plains have such wide pasturage and excellent climate
that everything prospers and multiplies exceedingly. This must
suffice for the district of Buenos Ayres; we shall now treat of Chile.

TABLE

Of the Repartimientos (Allotments) by Provinces and Corregi-
mientos (with the Tribute-paying Indians) Existing in the Districts
of the Cities of Lima, Huanuco, Trujillo, Chachapoyas, and Piura.

1832. In the Corregimiento of El Cercado which is in Lima, in
the Indian villages of its district, there are 6 curates: 2 clerics, 2
Franciscans, and 2 Mercedarians. Each Indian pays a tribute of
5 assay pesos every year, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Me: Gross Net

payers people chos) Women _ tribute tribute
Surcomes ieccsecmee 192 61 147 284 965 536-7t
La Magdalena. :.<... 89 =. 26 50 156 444-7t-8 I51-5t-I1
Guateaymarca ...... 60 =613 44 133 292-48 136-2t-1
Manchay titer cts: 12 10 6 29 60 53-4t
Guanchoguaylas .... i oO 3 12 B59 Aa. oe OR he ee
(ati: avec PS chtiog 31 9 30 78 =155 26-7t-2
Pocorucha saeco: 6 3 7 17 30 10-1
Eiuiancayo. tayece sci 45 6 377 62 247-48 123-4
Chuquitanta, ...:2-% 20 10 23 36 110 9-6
Comascarvaillo .... 20 3 8 24 55 5-6
@acahuast wasn oe 9 5 4 17 40 24
Pachacamace rar. 70 17 55 72 358-5-3 126-3-3

Warigancho™ «n= hs BT iy SERAON Lerie er MM peceretey a cnstcror ye IN Ou ay MNmnN telogelete
482 163 414 922 2,703 pS. 7 1,204 ps. 3-5

So that from this Corregimiento the tribute comes to 2,793 assay
pesos 3 tomines and 5 granos; the Corregidor and curates and other
expenses are paid out of this sum; there remain for the encomenderos
1,204 pesos 3 tomines and 5 granos.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 695

1833. In the Corregimiento of the Ica Valley and its villages there
are 7 clerical curates and a few Franciscans. Each tributary Indian
pays 4 assay pesos and 7 tomines, and I tomin more for their hos-
pitals; they pay this in silver and produce.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
iElananica wrest ¢ 371 50 308 403 1,723-2t-5 938-1t-3
rite 11 Cals ate ee) isieters 374. 90 237 #2607 1,761-It-II 1,086-7
(Wintayarererccis cc. os 31 9 12 2608 I32=5=10 Mes eerie
bate rNiascaless satcee:s: 328 48 163 384 1,491-2-6 792-7-5
Pisco y Condor..... 185 51 114 341 QOI-7 5560-7

1,289 248 924 1,761 6,010-3t-8 3,374-6-8

In the repartimientos of this Corregimiento there are 6,010 pesos
3 tomines and 8 granos; deducting what is paid to the curacies,
Corregidor, caciques, and other expenses, there are available 3,374
pesos 6 tomines and 8 granos.

1834, In the Corregimiento of the town of Arnedo or Chancay,
there are 8 repartimientos, which usually contribute like the others,
with 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Ghecras@nsan ese 927. 376 1,107 3,327 3,286-3-2 1,841-22
Mucallama (sl. Fis < 123 26 12 217 604—4 37-7-10
BarranGar me acces ee. 169 47 118 348 707-6 337-7
IViestetaiin es chet dyclers 52 9 77 118 = 248-3-8 80-4-7
Guplyge steer eels 79). 24 84 177, 375-2 220-4
@hancay Martie. 22 10 18 27 1O7—4-8 ta es
IRR Vo yoocobenee 273). 33 T40 5260 1,322-2-2 841-1-8
Giupiliiniy eos) sete ss a Be 5 7 Tata e Y we e

1,648 525 1,761 4,751 6,666-3 3,354-I-3

1835. In the Corregimiento and Province of Canta there are 5
repartimientos and in them 8 curates: 4 clerics and 4 Mercedarians.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Hiuamantanga 3... 631) ©2560) 11.038) 42:311 21223 1,3909-4-I0
Gantae sents e ers nscts 782 284 1,084 2,785 2,826 1,359-6-4
fHananpuchas’ ..:... 425 150 /7II I,31I 2,522-7-4 1,017-7-A
iEuronpichas 7)... ..«. ZAAW A TOS = | 6337 769 «=: 83I-I 435-1
Atabillosaees seis ee 353) 15 580 1,188 1,225 619-4

2,435 969 3,750 8,364 9,628-4 4,831-7-2

1836. In the Corregimiento and district of the town of Cafiete
there are 5 repartimientos and in them 6 curates: 3 clerics and
3 Dominicans.

696 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Lunahuana 7h. .. 320 62 169 498 1,590-2 584-4
Ghinchagee: ences 316) \ 72° 257: pb 7ke et. 382-4 596-t-9
Chileaymara, =.=... - 142 32 123 232 686-3-6 360-6-4
Coayllocalango .... 250 91 267 583. 1,156-1 505-2
GuarcoW ane cece: GS iasielee m! Mention SOV eRe Bete clan ae ecroreretere
1,033 257 81o 1,884 4,815-8 2,136-5-I

1837. In the Corregimiento and Province of Huailas there are
5 repartimientos. In that of Huaras and that of Marca the Conde
de Lemus has 1,228 tribute-paying Indians; in accordance with the
rate each Indian pays 2 assay pesos and 7 tomines and something
more, out of which are paid the curates, justices, caciques, and other
expenses ; they contribute 1 tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Eliatlas weyers 1,859 716 2,092 5,985 5,577 2,738-7-6 gr
ReCWay "iiasc eis nie are 1,766 668 2,200 6,315 5,666-4-1 1,714-5
Eluarase take oclsniolts 606 233 640 1,796 1.501-4 747-t-2
IMRAN Cae a hpthotieren eine 582 188 669 1,713 1,710 469-6-1
Mitimas de Recuay.. 105 99 JII2 352 £315 66-5-6

4,918 1,899 5,773 16,161 14,860 53737-9-3

1838. In the Corregimiento and Province of Los Huamalies there
are 15 repartimientos and in them 8 curates: 4 clerics and 4 Merce-
darians. Each Indian pays a tribute of 3 pesos and 4 tomines in
assay silver, and 1 tomin more for their hospital; out of the gross
tribute are paid the curates, justices, church-building expenses,
caciques, etc.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Huamalies de Mocodn 228 117 240 401 779 327-6
Huanuco Ovas ...<. BO melo 19 605) F117, 62
Mancharbe. saeco 188 105 502 380 705 320
GacaSiogecun sue ae 351 104 324 #836 1,100-4-3 527——3 gr
Huaorachuco ...... 244 109 160 194 853-7-0 510-t3-7
Iicho Hluanuco™.. sce 370 136 461 1,085 1,453——2 893-6-3
HI Eiuancasiee cree 317. 106 200 £549 1,245-6 690-5-7
Wanastias aut cern 57 II 61 138 = 143-4 71-7
Pachas. Mascanga... 1049) 0840230) | 427701670 272-1-6
Haneyungas (?) ... 74 4 17) 00 YS) 8200 174-5
Pariafcalogsth «c.ess 2045) OO UR227 SA 7a 1743 381-6
AANEY UNEASE) sce cnet 166 25 TO2 Fo S5O SOL 301
Huariguancha ..... 148 113 I92 460 505-5-4 181-I-4
Araneay, (aod smocienee 48 I 27 78 ~=«168 38-5-6
Other Aneyungas .. 50) 22 20 97. += 236-2 129-5

2,604 1,049 2,857 5,832 9,607-2 4,900-5

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 697

1839. In the Province and Corregimiento of Conchucos there are
8 repartimientos and in them 14 curacies: 10 of clerics, 2 of Domini-
cans, and 2 of Mercedarians. Each Indian pays tribute at the rate
of 3 assay pesos and 4 tomines, and 1 tomin for the hospital, every
year, in products of the soil.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Conchucos (formerly

iRardave) iy sees. sr 867) 283) 1,373 -3}177 °3}251-2 1,960-2

Conchucos of Mori.. 755 200 1,109 2,790 2,831-2 1,642-2
Allauca-Huari ..... 720) +232 1,000" 2}073) 3'075 1,813-6
lle) JERE Sooaceas 659 306 664 1,888 2,369-4 1,372-2
Riscobamba, sn... .. 476 195 480 1,607 1,591-4 826-4
Allauca-Pincos ..... 303 150 286 750 1,375-4 703-5
Iicho=Pincos)... 5.5. 365 90 500 1,019 1,277-4 666-4
Sigtasy asses 161 50 447 342 538-1-4 166—3

4,396 1,512 5,058 13,646 16,309-5t-4 gr 9,151-I-3

From the gross is subtracted the cost of the curates, justices,
caciques, church-building expenses, and others noted.

1840. In the Province and Corregimiento of Tarma and Chinchay-
cocha there are 13 repartimientos and in them 18 curacies: 14 of
clerics, 2 Dominicans, and 2 Mercedarians. Each tribute payer comes
out at 3 assay pesos I tomin and 5 granos, and 1 tomin for their
hospitals.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Chinchaycocha ..... 2,176 866 2,351 5,680 6,982 4,217——6
Wagiiae jes oate sce 991 256 1,426 3,076 3,716-2 1,976-2
RYiaA TOS chen eyerciaiaite w ctors 462 241 517 1,264 1,506 Q17-5
Chauquiguara ...... 427. 240 508 1,268 1,455-7 840-7
Giupacospemcdscec. + 508 232 456 1,609 1,767-3-4 700-4-5
Mam O! ayes isiagcteders e's © 310 132 325 # 442 I,017-I-I1 372-5-8
Eimamaltesa ees 5I 43 66 168 165-6 II-5
Yamamates: 2.1...) \- 134) 1) 26 147, 412 469-3 241
Other Huamalies ... 153 82 159 477 492-3 286-7
WachaSsrrqaccrie cies 112 77 133) 6335 360-1-6 155-0-6
IMitiIMaS I seaside is « 142). 952 IIQ 301 471-6-9 230-3-0
@ther VWachas =.;..-. 1360 71 I3I 345 413-3-9 132-6
(Gating eee pee ale 72 AS 106 205 23I-7—5 72-3-5

5,675 2,385 6,534 15,672 19,135-3t-O 10,174—6

1841. In the Corregimiento and Province of Jauja there are 7
repartimientos and in them 19 curacies: 10 of Dominicans and 9g of
Franciscans. Each tribute payer comes out at 4 assay pesos and I
tomin for the hospital.

698 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102
Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute

Hatunijiatijae es. ac. 761 375 955 2,016 2,910-2-5 1,357-4

Turin seluancag.j.es 2,607 1,607 3,470 8,806 9,383-7 5,030

Hanan Huanca ....- 1,203 794 1,847 5,145 5,13I-6-5 2,332-6

Mitimas Mancos and

Wards iar seule csi < 31 13 46 125 120-4-7 49-7

Mitimas de Chaclla. 47 27 53. 179 160-5-3 90-2

Mitimas de Mama.. Tae e385 60 1906 275-6-5 84-1

Mitimas de Gorocheu II9 44 178 370 458-2-9 214-5
4,780 2,895 6,609 17,737 18,449-4-5 95759-5

1842. In the Province and Corregimiento of Huarochiri there are

3 repartimientos, and in them 10 curacies, all of clerics.

Tribute Old

payers people
@hacllas<e.niccsereee 854 203
Miatriavete science 551 1092
Hiuarochini io...e.. 1,481 474

2,886 869

Gross
Women _ tribute

2,309 3,229-I-6
1,047 2,249-7-6
4,936 6,093-1-4
8,382 11,572-24

Boys
1,105
387
2,206

3,608

Net
tribute

1,746-5-6
850-5
3,246-1-5

5,852-4-1

1848. In the Corregimiento and Province of Cajatambo there are
12 curacies of clerics and 2 of friars. Each tributary pays at the rate
of 2 pesos 7 tomines and 9 granos of assay silver, and I more each
year for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Ada aia mser ss Sea 1,756 441 2,628 5,952 5,513—1I 3,548—1 gr
OerOS ach sicccweaes 560 1904 551 559 1,661-7-2 522-4
Aambar) Sin earns 469 O7 367 1,161 1,771-5-6 1,022—4-0
Cayjatambo*? 22... es: $29— 310) 1,221 (2975 ST 1,742-4
eamipas teste ree tne 200 339 1,459 2,700 3,034-5 1,590-—7

4,814 1,390 6,226 13,147 15,995-I-9 8,431-5-5

1844, In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Yauyos there are
8 repartimientos and in them 8 Dominicans who catechize them, and
1 cleric. Each tributary pays at the rate of 3} silver assay pesos,
and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Mancos Laraos .... 1,027 289 1,509 3,523 4,00I——-2 gr 2,126-4-5 gr
Colpaschunga Macas 1,243 427 1,697 3,351 4,842-4-2 3,003-I-2
Mitimas de Huaro-

Chiri? (hs. baes ecco 127, 46 150 412 444-4 179-2
Mitima, Chaclla\~.2., @iG «32 6166.0" 3207) 485 243
Mitimas Mancos y

[araos' ?sec.ee ee 34 10 57-139 TIO 48-6
Mitimas de Macma.. 26 5 32 60 56 24
Mitimas Yauyos .... GA O23 TOS 247-2250 156-4

2,631 832 3,726 8,052 10,107 5,871-5-7

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 699

1845. In the Corregimiento of the town of Sana and its valleys
there are 10 repartimientos and in them 10 curacies of clerics who
catechize them. Each tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos 3
tomines and I grano, and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Lambayeque. ....... 1,065 400 1,313 3,016 3,738-1-4 1,947-6-2 er
MMACTIIINICY wactcieletesi-'</0.< 613. 213 700 1,650 2,153-4-4 1,029-6
MULIMO Vis inteuefe'e'e «1s «6 5's 279 100 327 773° # 950-2-4 375-7-7
METMENALE |... 2) sees 224 21 210 291 769-7-3 245-7-9
WAV ANCA N cere ie sversic eye's 355 140 383 875 1,276-2-11 390-2-8
IMOtUpe? Sec% oe shcces.0 248 82 184 474 &868-2-11 275-6
IPEQCO EN Jains beoomaee 7822 86 178 =. 287-5 124-1
IRenachit pitieeriacie.< 160 44 #185 341 # £519-6-6 169-4
@lmOst Pasepncseccte oa. 305 6 392 818 1,058-1-8 530-1-8
GOPIZy waraciisiciens aye 13 4 24 54 57-4-4 14-4-4

3,340 1,032 3,804 8,470 11,679-6-7 5,109-7

1846. In the Corregimiento of the Chicama Valley, 5 leagues from
Trujillo, there are 12 repartimientos and in them 14 curates: 2 of
them clerics, 4 Franciscans, 3 Dominicans, 4 Augustinians, and 1
Mercedarian, with the salaries indicated for them in the tax rates;
each tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos 4 tomines and 14
granos, and 1 tomin for their hospitals.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Ghicamatwe sy. secs 447 175 £42618 1,232 1,549-6-3 580-7-9 er
Chimohuanchaco ... 246 113 306 657 #861 366-7-6
Pai anes e cireice II0 = 40 22 236 412-4 None left
Jequetepeque ....... FAG, (225. |) O34) 11/303): 1,081 1,069Q—2-6
GhEDSMI Yara eis creieieieye > Hurts 46 118 208-6 43-3
INIOKOL sia voce aceroe 32 4 22 51 III-6-9 9-3-8
IMIGCUPE Vecrsisie sro ies TiS Sires aretire Ve Seton Be tersiske BARA sha
Cherrepe. sicscsc hele O25 24 51 16Il 333 87-5
FREGUCE Stohr s ieee eres 404 248 380 817 1,397-I-4 790-I-9
Gallanea sees cesses 302 105 303 622 1,129-2-10 303-4-I
Cinto and Chiclayo. 348 .... .... ...- 1,206-4-10 555-5-0
Golliquel asses: 4 ole 381 136 356 901 1,338-6 754-I-2

3,115 1,082 2,738 6,248 11,001-7-4 4,660-3-11

1847. In the Corregimiento of the town of Santa there are 9
repartimientos and in them 7 curacies: 3 of clerics, 3 of Dominicans,
and 1 Mercedarian. Each tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos
and 6 tomines, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

700 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
MGyGi piri. Macey: 220. | 78) 235) "578 o) B50-0 342-3
Eluahmeyaiaaieree veehc 135 39 120 258 652-4-9 100-—2-10
Guambachor.......- 8 6 68 149 254-6-6 30-3-3
GasmarAltam sa. 2... 39 7 43 01 I40-5-5 102-6
IMochey Guess spose. 45) 12 12) 20 168-6 106—8
Guananpechao ..... 162 12 172 «257 607-2-4 42-6-8
CasmambBayaensss - 36 6 30 34 T3250). . 0) Maes (5)
Mancay anew ctvec ace 9 2 9 19 Bgnce Or aaa
INepenat ier isteeis 5. 20 I 17 34 52-4-4 24-4-4

753 163 700 1,551 2,004-I5 gr 763-7-2

1848. In the Corregimiento of Cajamarquilla del Collay there are
5 repartimientos and in them 6 curacies served by clerics. Each
tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos and 4 tomines, and 1 for
their hospital. Out of the gross are paid justices, church-building
expenses, caciques, and other expenses in conformity with the other
Provinces and Corregimientos.

Chilchos
Cajamarquilla
Collay
Buldibuchioprax
Leimebamba

eee ewer sense

eee eee

ee eee eee reese

Tribute Old

Gross

Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
100)—Sls 58 86 113 2909 71-1-8
306 183 383 1,160 1,071 443-4
ASD TL7S 53730 O77 loa 8290—3
109 6-590 «129s 246 394-3-8 164-3-6
421 119 368 605 1,472-7-I 513 I
1,387 536 1,339 3,191 4,815-5-2 2,021-2-2

1849. In the Corregimiento of Luya and Chillaos in the district
of the city of Chachapoyas there are 24 repartimientos, and in them
g curacies: 6 of clerics, 2 of Mercedarians, and 1 Franciscan. Each
tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos, and 1 tomin for their

hospital.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 7OI

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Gtiymalle testesc sw. «i 64 37 93 273 206-5-9 54-7-6
WWiatmone sree setetaissn oss 1752 (520 St40") 13280 524-6 135-3510
Conga tetas ccs 63017 24 85 1886-6 61-1-8

288-2-8 47-1-9
MEAUV A ere svssehecaissl a, a:e-sis-+ 96 53 124 386 230-6-3 98-2
Eiuamocho.-... 0. +- Ji AO 50 145 246-2 114-I-4
Quemalolto ........ Ve Mee 66 151 276-2 129-1
Contlap sa0.de0 0s 5+ 85 45 104 253 373-6 76-2
Timurbamba ....... II5 49 99 6258 8552 136-7-8
Gasmaleeeme ces. 184 126 256 512 185-4 93-3
204 90-5

Chachaslebamo ..... 53) 3 70) eI7On eTAs 61
Abia bts Ayres aia. sic 60 1936 68 196 672-7-6 251-7
Colcamarallaucono . 44 18 49 I19 235-5-10 103-6
alae ey tees cyaeaye tela a2 ie 222. Ol 1225 O12 96 51-2
Quistanchochoscono . 69 34 04 240 78 39
IDE Kear) ator omiaroite 22 9 10 56 =. 520 204
Gulquimanges..--..- 26 I 2 45 114 56
Gomacochay =: as...- 160 39.25 13906 3384—s«a178-4 93
@ther Bacuals.....- 38 8 22 64 405 165
IERIE. Gosnoeeonen 51 7 45 172 78 35
Ghocoylacoca’ 1.5... Teale, Se ee) ee ne eel ne a at rence:
@eSttyay ised oes <0's ss 24 3 20 4I 159 71-1
Tiapolloachuca ..... 227 53. I50 £132 60-4
GhisgomBajaue. .....- 44 16 AQ 132° 135 60-4
Wiamitamescrr sie son's chs 45 5 44 ODE eee: as ctor

1,989 739 1,876 4,829 6,224-2-6 2,480-1-8

(The explanation of the above confusion must be that somehow the tribute
figures for Jalca, Chocoylacoca, Yanta, Bagua, and others got misplaced. I have
tried to follow the MS exactly rather than to correct.—C. U. C.)

1850. In the Province and Corregimiento of Cajamarca there are
Q repartimientos and in them 24 curacies: 13 of Franciscans, 7 of
Augustinians, 3 of Mercedarians, and 1 cleric. For the salaries
indicated for them, each tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos
I tomin and g granos, and 1 tomin more for their hospital; and
among those of Cajamarca, where a new census was taken in I6I1,
it was found that there were 2,524 tribute-paying Indians assigned
(encomendados) to the Condes de Lemus for their lives and one
more life to be designated by them; and the 3 Guarangas in Caja-
marca which had belonged to Gov. Juan de Salinas, were assigned
to the Condes de Altamira, and in the new census taken, it was found
that there were 1,726 tribute-paying Indians.

702 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102
Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Cajamiancare ca... 2,523 2,845 7,599 8,100-7—-4 5,305-6-7 gr
The 3 Guarangas... 1,477 1,677 4,119 4,800-2 ' 3,172-7-6
Huamachuco’ 5.2... 1,087 2,519 5,863 6,374-4-10 3,620-4
Eluambosterrci.s sees 692 823. 227 2,206-3-5 1,232—I
Mitimas de Safia.... 136 161 307 437-5-5 206-6-4
Mitimas Chilcos and
Leimebamba ..... 40 160-5 49-7
Mitimas Chachapoyas
and Bracamoros .. 24 ee 75-16 46-6
6,879 2,758 7,975 19,205 22,155-5 13,694—4

1851. In the Corregimiento and district of the Provinces of San
Miguel de Piura there are 28 repartimientos and in them 13 curacies:
11 of clerics and 2 of Mercedarians; each tributary pays at the rate

of 4 assay pesos.

Tribute Old
payers people

Eluancabamba) ene. 420
AvyabaGa «sis nais assis. 234
Frias Chalaco’ <.... -. 93
Chincharasontor .... 45
Parina and Cosio... 48
Mechatomecomo ... GSOmerte
IMalacar a ctyenireieeae Oi
Miaticora. v.ts. «iss. 4
Narinoala ccc.) 145
Menon}; aceon wanes 40
Camacho masta: ae 14
Sechura and La

Punta x ec nee 40
Miecache tear ete sterstere 31
Moscalaqui)o.cietes. 10
Marcavelica ....3.. 16
Colants accuse 30
WanG@hira:fcccen neers 17
Piuatra’ os. Sateen. 45
Maneararay.i esc. 9
Castillo: issn aches 16

1,542

Sechura and Muneli. 72
Amotape: We) 02/51. 9
Pattalasillaaeaeacs setts 27
WatonGtarnw seoste: 18
Solaniak con serteic.c cuss 60
AuUmDEST waciieettyecte 12
Malingas and valley. 3

Boys Women
1,453

Gross
tribute

eeeeee
eeeeee
sewers
eeeeee
eeeeee
ee eee
eeeees
ee ecee
ee eee
ee eeee

eee eee
peewee
eeecee

yeenee

ee eee
yeeeee
eeweee

eee eee
eee eee
ee eeee
0 6! a 10. '9, 0
ee eeee
eeeeee

see eee

Net
tribute

864—6 gr
485-7-4
140

8 50,'e) 0! 60

eee eee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 703

1852. (Marg.: 94,857 tribute payers) General recapitulation of
the tribute as verified by the general inspection of what is mentioned
in the districts of Lima, Huanuco, Trujillo, Piura, Chachapoyas, and
Guayaquil: ninety-four thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven’
Indians paying tribute ; they paid three hundred and fifty-two thousand
eight hundred and thirty-eight assay pesos and four tomines,’ in
silver and products of the soil.

At present there are fifty-nine thousand three hundred and fifty-
eight * tribute payers, with the six hundred and fifty-four of those
in Moyobamba added in.

There has been a falling off of thirty-five thousand nine hundred
and seventy-four * tribute payers from the number existing at the
time of the general inspection, and there has therefore been a drop
of one hundred and forty-one thousand one hundred and seventy-one
assay pesos and four tomines.’

DISTRICT OF THE CITY OF GUAMANGA

1853. In the Corregimiento of the Province of Los Lucanas in
the district of the city of Guamanga there are 3 repartimientos and
in them 15 curacies: 14 of clerics and 1 Dominican, with the salary
indicated in each tax list; each tributary pays at the rate of 4 assay
pesos and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
SOnrasS mpc oe eset 1,074 903 2,248 6,048 7,028-2-5 3,081-5-6 er
NucanaSweceerr nace 1,736 658 2,212 5,817 6,050-3 2,771-3-7
Andamarcas. 2)... 1,530 517 1,132 3,844 5,056—1 2,712-2-6

5,240 2,078 6,132 15,745 18,134-5-6 9,305-3-7

1854. In the Province of Los Angaraes, included in the State of
Huancavelica, there are 4 repartimientos and in them 5 curacies of
clerics with the salaries indicated for them in the tax lists. Each
tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos 5 tomines and 8 granos,
and 1 tomin each besides for their hospital.

* 94,857 tribute payers.

* 352,838 pesos 4 tomines.

®* They now pay 203,859 pesos 7.
* 60,359 tribute payers.

° 141,161 pesos 4 tomines.

704 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Angaraes de la Viera 627 301 739 2,517 2,235-I-2 816-7- gr
Angaraes de Vendesu. 661 225 6096 1,836 2,280-7 1,208—1I
ttraillayagenree.s scr ote 707 162 475 1,253 2,22I-6-11 1,348-7-I1
@alamatcaee. sce. 89 =. 36 86 185 322-5-7 183-4-10

2,084 724 1,906 5,791 7,060-4-8 3,555-3-10

1855. In the Corregimiento and Province of Los Chocorvos in-
cluded in the Corregimiento of Castrovirreina there are 4 reparti-
mientos and in them 4 curacies of clerics with salaries according to
the list. Each tributary pays at the rate of 3 assay pesos 5 tomines
and II granos.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Huachos Chocorvos. 577 170 £786 1,651 1,84I-I-1I O1I-6-1
Huaitatay irewseaenn 771 279 953 2,207 2,721-2 1,361
Quiguares Orejones. 172 99 148 407 631-1-6 387-7-7
PRUAtIS Vcowices ge teers 160 120 217 691 588-3 211-4-6

1,680 668 2,104 4,956 5,781-2-7 2,872-2-2

1856. In the Corregimiento and Province of Zangaro and Huanta
there are 5 repartimientos and in them 9 curacies of clerics. Each
tributary pays at the rate of 3 pesos 3 tomines and 8 granos, and
1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Ounwamees see eee 689 183 450 1,441 2,695-4-4 1,207-5
Gavinast Senet 71 24 83 187 264-10 76—-I-I
Partial aceeieciee 1,431 357 926 1,042 5,489-3-8 3,460-6-8
AngaraéS 2.ie..sas< 473 237 330 1,004 1,806-4-8 800-3-2
WavaGalase eee 300° “160! (S10) “TerS0: T7448-6, y Saeeere

3,206 970 2,317 5,844 11,404-3-6 5,544-4-4

1857. In the Province and Corregimiento of Vilcas there are 7
repartimientos and in them Io curacies of clerics with the salaries
assigned them in the lists. Each tributary pays at the rate of 34 assay
pesos and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Hanan: Vilcase . ee. 625 273 611 1,480 2,30I-1 1,348-3
Palres\ scene 546 204 521 1,303 1,074-7-4 1,273-5-II
lini) \Valcasive- a. 418 203 525 1,204 1,575-5-8 810-3
Owichudseencee see 1,734 772 1,642 4,665 6,376-3-I0 3,686-5
Tanquigues: <25.00e. 516 194 462 1,335 1,850 992-1
iPaomanrcae eae ee 385 129 262 813 = 1,440-4 670-2-6
MOOST ene oto 207 114 220 657 &#666-5-5 179-3-2

4,431 1,889 4,243 11,547 16,194-5-3 8,960-3

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 705

1858. From the general inspection of Viceroy Don Francisco de
Toledo it resulted that in the repartimientos of the 5 Corregimientos
of the district of Guamanga there were twenty-two thousand one
hundred and sixty-two tributary Indians; these 22,162 paid a tribute
every year in silver and products of the soil eighty-four thousand
two hundred and fifty-four assay pesos and six granos—84,254 pesos
6 granos.

In the latest reinspection there were sixteen thousand five hundred
and forty-two tributary Indians—16,542. They pay in tribute fifty-
nine thousand five hundred and seventy- (sixty-, MS) six pesos
and 6 granos, by the tax list—59,576 pesos 6 granos.

There is a loss of five thousand six hundred and twenty tribute
payers.

DISTRICT OF THE CITY AND DIOCESE OF AREQUIPA

1859. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Collaguas, district
of the city of Arequipa, there are 5 repartimientos and in them
16 curacies ; 8 are catechized by clerics and the other 8 by Franciscans.

Each tributary pays at the rate of 5 pesos and 10 granos, and 1 tomin
for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
VYanqui Collaguas .. 3,215 1,223. 2,220 3,734. 19}243-6 8,223-1-7
leaniy Collagiay <..\er:. 978 416 797 2,107 4,549-5-10 3,105
Collaguas de Picado 992 370 860 2,202 4,547-7-1 3,067-2-9
Half, ofi@abana..... 556 168 671 567 2,523-5-6 1,396-5-8
@Othershalt=s....5... 362 102 373 #49956 1,848-7-1 1,061—-I-2

6,103 2,279 4,921 9,566 26,713-2-2 16,853-3-2

1860. In the Corregimiento of Los Ubinas there are 10 reparti-
mientos and in them 4 curacies of clerics. Each tributary pays at
the rate of 4 assay pesos and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
\iotiES Nonceenooeoos 380 160 339 914 1,870 QOI-5
IROCOSSINrac,ccis ners cre 378 123 689 440 2,233-7 1,486-I-I1
Carumas de Bueno.. 162 70 262 574 ~ 881 467
Other Carumas ..... 140.047 4167) , 446. 750 362
Cochtitiay Geese eee. 14 I 16 25 G7
Omate ec ieieis croye sie. S2m nT 7; IOI 192 440 215-4
Quinistacas, .<..500. 00. - 33... 143).. 202. .533-4 179-2
ATCT eee erecta cre 82 30 04 238 440 207
Cheque Mitimas .... 16 3 iy, 33 65-4 45-4
MOratate ci vere cies TI) 20) M1207 F270. 7 400 118-4

1,470 513 1,057 3,425 7,749-1-7 3,982-4-11

46

700 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1861. In the Province and Corregimiento of Condesuyos there are
12 repartimientos and in them 9g curacies of clerics. Each tributary
pays at the rate of 5 assay pesos and Io granos, and I tomin more
for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Chuquibanbaluque .. 321 II9 412 1,341 1,659 1,046-2
The other half...... 245 88 238 808 1,144-6 641-7-6
Arones Andaray ... 264 68 135 626 = 1,381-2 664
Arones and Anasqui-

GAIAS aaron eetels. ote 351 109 319 973. 1,792-6-8 1,041-2-8
Pamipacolcai ence. ct 530 175 638 1,719 2,478—8 1,569-6
Wiiralco® scdjcn ace nnt 368 120 373 1,188 1,888 1,264-6
Anda caste cease 418 152 446 1,148 2,323-1 1,545-I
@hachasivs.-tac cise: 416 115 406 496 2,060-6 1,342—I1
Chipaleas. 2astc0 ces 125. (481 *10y4 +2825 S701-4) 305-2
Machanguay ....... 174. 47 2153 530 983-5 703-1
Achanquillo ....... 102 38 4117 347 # 550-5-6 223—6
AWehamarcaet sine ee 138 84 I91 565 639—6 231—2-6

3,452 1,263 3,533 10,029 17,602-7-4 10,578—I gr

1862, In the Corregimiento of Camana and Majes there are 13
repartimientos and in them 6 curacies; 5 are administered by clerics
and 1 by a Dominican friar.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Mayes ‘Cosus oc ceecre 59 ~— «3 30 ©6110 )=—-265-6-3 128-1-2
Mayes Uraca, se ccs 32 6 21 53.) LOZ=T=T) 1 a eae
IA CAPI: Ocke terery aoetane ot 240 47 «104 247 1,180 50I-I-9
Delatorre Camana.. 20 3 8 20 40 _ 17-2
Pampanico asec « 21 4 9 33 95 60
Qutlcay sss er ote. 26 24 10 23 TOTP Math) Te Pee
Ocofia del Rey..<... 10 4 2 6 CON]. “Wiemhis eee
Ocofia de Pacheco... 14 7 25 10 FRie) de teeters
Caraveliatico 2.2... ISr-) (6 189 531 1,086 462-1
Atiquipal ete: cies ee 46 16 32) 102) , 220 58-1
Chapatra “Wsicaecees 58 II 35 87. =. 206-8 80-3-8
Molleguaca ........ 28 B 26 63°") (332=1=00 ewan san
Mitimas. de*la’ Nascaw 58.0) sesso eee, Be eO4=Al 198-4

777. 199 491 1,285 4,013-6 1,485-6-7 gr

1863. In the Corregimiento of Arica and its rural communities
(anejos) there are 5 repartimientos and in them 8 curacies, ad-
ministered by clerics. Each tributary pays at the rate of 5 assay pesos
2 tomines and 2 granos, and 1 real more for their hospital.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 707

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Miatasand tArica. 45°" .65 °° 15 84 92 357-4 1774 gr
Tarapaca and Pica.. 950 121 o81 2,035 4,585 3,058-3t
Inkl ko gidatieabaoee te 50 18 22 109 260-4 153-4t
RAC AMA: Ee vetcteras.e-s.50s 525 50 403 979 2,551-4-4 1,624-2-4
Finlabayay secieiccs ei 166 IQ 100 231 873-1 221-7-4

1,758 223 1,680 3,446 8,636-5-4 5,235-I-I1

1864. In the Corregimiento of Caracoto and Vitor there are 21
repartimientos and in them 11 curacies: 2 of clerics, 4 Dominicans,
1 Franciscan, and 2 Mercedarians. Each tributary pays at the rate
of 45 assay pesos, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Garacotons. ccc -ck o 2AS* "AA 247) 442 188 761
NWitliminas: “ein. sc 52 6 65 142 219-4 165-4
Guayparuminas .... 12 I 10 37 45-4 31-4
WittOtinsiiaccrcattiiets ose 30 5 32 67," 150 138
G@hileteers eters seins 25 9 26 60 126 82
VWarabaval meee css - LT7. 19 TOMA 27 643-2 461-2
Copoataw ore. oa. aes TI3"' 20°" 1367" “253°,) 583-4) 307-4
Chichuaguasacache.. 36 T, 26 87 185-4 129-4
@ropones elses cece: 62 6 57. 102 321-4 210-4
@iihhuata pre ecisciye or 113, 18.124, ,\277 583-4 385-4
iPaucanpata sce oe. 127) 7 123 168 233 564-2 352-2
Bocavaya Quispillan. 82 8 84 206 440 304
Guyane scctetsts ses IOI E22) TOR mee lew So 356
Golanigesesraetesia AOE Cae sony, ose elo 147
Cuguivayasciee-c 90 8 87. 7224. 378 236
Chimba de Cornejo... 441 21 403 937 2,340-2 1,773-2
Chimba de Arequipa 141 [4,) 122 288)" 733-2 531-2
Chimba de Tiyavayo 1,059 52 869 2,243 5,588-6 4,354-6
Collaguas de Picado 181 II 192 421 946-2 708-2
Those of Retamoso.. 159 9 59 312 828-4 613-4
Weleietehis) 5 ananenee 286 841 304 205 1,273-4 031-4

3,518 334 3,420 7,168 17,852 13,029

The Indians in this district have fallen off greatly in numbers as
a result of the eruption of the volcano, and are all hard put to it.

DISTRICT OF THE CITY OF CUZCO

1865. The feudatory residents of the city of Cuzco and the others
stopping (estantes) and dwelling there and in that district, in the
year 1610 were found to own property appraised altogether at eight
million one hundred and two thousand five hundred 8-real pesos ;

each million is understood to be ten times one hundred thousand

708 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

pesos. This valuation was made at the instance of the Viceroy
Marqués de Montesclaros and is signed by the Aldermen (Regidores)
and Deputies of the City Council.

In the Province and Corregimiento of Collasuyo or Azangaro and
Asillo, there are II repartimientos and in them 8 curacies adminis-
tered by clerics, with salaries as indicated in the tax list. The Indians
pay their tribute in products of the soil, like others, and 1 tomin
for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women. tribute tribute
Chupaukiecscooseters 306 40 301 833 1,876-6 1,364-6
PRMD Ghat wien lt strctsre 1,097 250 648 861 6,072-2-8 4,131-6
MRaracow etteceace ace 707 “O20 S43) 915757 8 3773 2,508
Samal, Lystssis acess 1,031 81 867 2,008 4,566-2 2,998-2
Achayad. (ack hidleas a goste 262 42 257 658 1,204-4 864-4
Caminacaieetn eae! --- 120, 15 72 3590 715-4 477-4
Caquixanaye.s .c..20. 353 57 +702 #548 1,800 1,302
Azangaro Ps e.teces 985 212 783 1,856 5,770-2 4,170-2-7
WN sillO* iackiieciseweys 935 167 1,000 2,203 5,312-5 4,001-5
Other Azangaro.... 190 39 201 629 1,061-7 802-7
Curahuce- sic seee. ac 112°, 12... FIT). -286. 4348-4 202-4

6,254 1,007 5,965 12,088 32,591-3-8 22,914——7

1866. In the Province and Corregimiento of Urcosuyo and Atun-
colla there are 18 repartimientos and in them 14 curacies of clerics.
The Indians pay tribute like the others, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute

Atancolla “225.5 sens 601 36 5096 1,152 2,649-2 1,533-2
Matiosso: “esac. e. + 764 84 #517 1,024 3,024 2,007
Caracoto, We. tsc eo BIO" 1530) 224i ee 844s eT, 527; 1,169
Cabana. sik cnt ec 623 145 643 1,632 2,797-4 1,795-4
Cabanillamen oscars 674)" 73r'C O17 1,527' | 2005-6 2,512-7
Ihampal Setcckirceserse 984.04. 783° 4,721 | 63,1353 173-3
Nicacio: he decs on 269 49 @ 305 +#«4«2618 1,021 686-4
Ayaviri and Cupi... 718 140 942 2,003 3,862 2,430-4
Oruro twisskekaastt 831 262 743 874 5,248—o 3,515-2-4
INtUHOAw ccmck cose: 605 306 550 1,269 3,200-4 2,240-4
AN@ara. acc coeieetonc 145 22 113 225 +==716-2-3 483-5
Pucara: <,. ssnco ces 246 78 272 693 = 1,258-6 825-2
Quiliacay WWike<eeccteecs 487’. ‘56 374: ' 1,520) 2,510 1,661-4
lelalliyn secocecoeecs 205 36 275 «648 1,019 756
IMacarive sane ee cere 225° 56 155 504 1,131 891-7-2
Umachiri’ y520 2 250 »\'972°)» 3031 °788)4 2,138 SII
Ancoayllo- ite eer 801) 20 906 2290 8465-1 346-1
Ullacaches .cetatees 87 5 60 128 1926 116-6

7,913 1,569 7,568 18,379 37,677-7 25,956-2

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 709

1867. In the Province and Corregimiento of Caravaya there are
6 repartimientos and in them 6 clerics: 2 in the mining camps paid
by the miners and 4 in the Indian villages with salaries according
to the tax list (tasa). The tributaries pay as in the other provinces,

and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old

Gross

Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute

@heccacupivis...... 448 125 528 1,499 2,288 1,497
Chia and Saroma... Asi ie 46 T2001 3i2 168
(COMENENEY Gon Goeaoe 205 38 206 775 1,772-1-6 1,264-5
VIDAL Ou chateieyivels, cnc, el o's 18 2 12 32 102-4 65
Ollachesteay. 600s" « 54. 25 48 140 436-4 269
(Avyapatal tessres oxen FAs 1d 77. 165 478-4 253-4
Capacopaimeesmossue- 122. 17. 159. 200, 788-4 385

585 108 638 1,518 3,890-7-6 2,405-1

1868. In the Province of Canas and Canchis and its Corregimiento

there are 18 repartimientos and in them 12 curacies of clerics with
salaries as in the list. Each tributary pays as in other provinces, and

I tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
@heceacupitee...cci.. « 448 125 528 1,499 2,288 1,407
Gongalllavierc sc. ccs 104 33 188 278 549-4 318-4
Gombapatanc.. 3... 16%, 45 “108... 380°, .730 447
Combapata and Chi-

TATICAY ere eccceiecs oo 400 118, 48 e135 (423, 607 308

Misi taurcereriere cre cterere G7a,- 243). 675,.11,072) 3/521 2,306
Gachay writes «ss ee 303 155 538 1,358 1,980-4 1,394-4
@harracache! 2... .. IOI 57 68 172 554-4 260-4
Siciatin sega ess ass 447 160 485 1,174 2,362-1-3 1,747-2-4
Sunucacheiiac.c. cess AIT. “TIT 388 995 2,091-2 1,647-2-4
Marangani) ........ 120.) 30), 147. 360 549 396
ian Ocaempyeeieie ee 713 235 743 1,809 3,414-5-I0 2,342-5-2
an euiSupayy.ccstese' 2COMmeTS Sues (305 eet O73 1.204) 850
ILEKKOR ENE. Suodaneaoe 227 OF TSO), | 6234 1,053 754
@hecostipaties-e. si. 449 166 443 943 2,606-1-8 1,9049-6-4
Bichih tad css sec eres 1,139 457 1,269 2,636 5,210-2-6 3,905-6-4
BYU tlt cyte ccics 801 367 760 1,642 4,082-7-6 2,056-0-4
Gopacaque: Bis 32 a6... 155 104 170 430 # 737-4-9 304—7
iancobabhary «sn cic «\s0 28 = 228 59 160 162 OI

6,787 2,580 7,419 17,027 33,855-3-6 23,746-1-1

1869. In the Province and Corregimiento of Quispicanche there
are 30 repartimientos and in them II curacies administered by 8

710 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

clerics and 3 Dominicans, with the salaries assigned them in the list.
Each tributary pays as in the other provinces, and 1 tomin more

for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Huascarquiguar del

REY aera Severs etiwis tg 57 10 55 192 287 192
Quispicanche ....... 182. 50441344, ¥ 640 j4020 626
Onisuaressieo....... - 321 99 127 640 1,527-4 949
Bapresi aes wader: vercvac 433 215’ 529 1,089 2,006-2 1,211-2
WACOS) Fis EG Favcecc ibis 279). 97, 275 — “i576 STeAAO 1,078
MAO! Sete sas cisicie 196 61 184 234 1,014-3-3 700-7-9
Sangatara st sciee oe 199 77 #4«+%134 +558 940-6 499-1
Gollanata ere. .ace LOO. 34) T5GNe) SoZ 874 573
A COS Ey. naires ovens 227 94 «+289 #4668 +=#1,167-1 805-3
Munaypatal?.. 00... 61 15 81 1921270 171
Pampachulla ....... 68 21 64 88 346-2-6 183-4
Hatuncaymana ..... 117 ,. 47 (330 ..42% . 580-4 403-4
Pomacanchi and

EMUAQUI Meciecels os 435 138 400 1,299 2,214-4 1,445-4
Pumachapiv see... TAO) 70m | G2 5o2™ 007, 465
INCCAPIA, fadeiseemris [7 W3T 105 313 867-4 570-4
Yaocata and Huarra-

CHAPE ciseceenaies 59 «oI 44 152 265 164
@hachacay ta aseecs. 15 7 20? 59 74 51-4
AGehay 1c sehen ba. ete ZOE cote Nee va eal Re 117 80
Ocongate "2 4.<%6.60 <0 82 19 86 157 378-7-1 248-5-2
Conotambo ........ 104 64 109 281 542-1 271-1-6
Quintillacta ....... 30, al 28° Fe) 153-2 96-3-9
CoscOxaaeasacies 24 24 30 SI I10-1-8 43-7
Salloe 7.40 ¥aaoueee- 202), 743" 330) 646) * 028 579
Wuenas coe acco 106 =. 33 76 208 538-4 360-4
Mohinateme seer ser 142 15 140 242 «708 495
Wreourcomee. seer 28 I 17, 61 132 93
Yanamanche and Hu-

ASCAL ceSetaieinns ©. 230s 83 38) - 10r) 213" “42r=4 254-4
Cabinas7cy cen sen 2IQ)? 1 (87 223) 248) 1.023 674-2
Other Cabinas -... .. 212 59 #4265 #&«©«2662 «1,045-4 750-4
(Cuchoar.esc eee 65 50 65 99 397-6 132

4,491 1,521 4,579 11,188 21,892-6-6 14,577-I-I

1870. In the Province and Corregimiento of Paucartambo of the
Andes of Cuzco there are 13 repartimientos and in them 6 curacies
of clerics with salaries indicated in the lists. Each tributary pays
at the rate of 3 assay pesos and 6 tomines, and I tomin more for

their hospital.

Tribute Old
payers people

Gross
Boys Women tribute

80 185 459 630

; arias 189-4
37 28 II3 +400
66 389 ©6882. «1,668-4
70 336 ©: 824_sé“, 610

7 10 35 55

12 2 19 60
I II 7 31-4
I 4 II 45-4-8
175
45
47

5 2 15 45

WHOLE VOL.
Paticartambo 2). :.).. 228
Pitumarca and

Wchosieechieae ase’ 3On elas
AmparaeSitaiciacs.s oe 82
Caycay Yovay ..... 358
Tononocolquepata .. 323
Gallancatiyen seston «<< I2
Vitoparischusa ..... 12
Rancarapaweeerm ale. 8
Marcapatage...... s 12
(Ganeheon oadocosone a0me.
Wallusavaerrisscisie <r TOMmee
ViataCaweercis ces sce. TOPs cise
Tononocarbamba ... 5

1,024

275 967 2,365 4,915-1-8

THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 7a

Net
tribute

269-2

142
82-5-4
1,106-4
950
35-4
11-4
17-2
25-7-4

eee eee

1871. In the Corregimiento of the Yucay Valley there are 24
repartimientos and in them g curacies: 8 of clerics and 1 Franciscan.
The tributaries pay as in the other provinces.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Maras? eptatrcierctee Sots 271 69 466 348 1,245-3 922-3
IVICA? Sst cc's 3 0's 500 141 368 973 2,405—8 1,490-2
Cupirpongoy. / so... 266 32 302 #688 1,096 730
Gollaseuee sce as. TOD clociedh peccisenl vente 47 36
sRambow semcine sc sies s 5I 40 33h 125) 245). ae eee
Wlaresi eran mide is «3 bic 104; » 67 © 1605 470... OFS 700
IMacingaenrpacee | ccs 22 13 22 43 92 62-4-6
Calcatiecemeiae ce 378 189 340 1,056 1,830-7 1,049-3
IRMGUISES) cissocie sc <cie 140 54 87 286 690 386
MEIN VT He nto ce ot 66 27a Tt 41 a 169 99-3
RomacOrcoy cece css 1 ye v2 176° 330) 530 380
Chimbopata ~.....:. 35 5 40 gI 159 I116-6-5?
Guataumia’ oaths. cr 48 8 3611 4126) 1! #220 166
Omaytaxay (?)i vs... “250 26. 267° )..670.)1,150 855
Masca de Otalo..... BOE Gi ce eekee, Leiner 80 57
Caquiaxaxaguana .. 296 123 240 573 1,308-5 007
Amaybamba tees 22 6 14 36 TOSS UL | ee
Sayrecachaiee. «sc LT Abe eine phe tere eitxee 44 28-2
Huaillabamba ...... 36° II 19 85 164 QI
IAmaybamba: 2+ <6 6. BOM ioe tas castes, Ueber III 68
ampallastay... ...- 251 (65 3268" 605 164 869
iPalpacallarmes ese... Lie ats ooh anctelae Naveee 68 47
Sondor eyceees cack ae 23). ah cle elles) Naitets 150 132
Pett Lon elo eh ate locates 192) - 46) «155° 220° Sor 525

3,213 920 3,032 6,909 14,898-2-5 9,783——II gr

712 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1872. In the Corregimiento of Abancay there are 23 repartimientos
and in them 8 curacies of clerics. Each tributary pays as in the other
provinces, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
AAD AVA ira ato seie eis ae 121 83 #61 458 # £»587-2 309-2-2
ADanCay ia.ccce.000 00% 200 103 178 #518 #950 448
Ghorosemeaae en cciscas 43 3 35 89 197 gI
Curahuasi de Juan
(Gonesi est cotence 160 72 198 303 9774-6 470-4-10
Curahuasi de _ Cis-
TIEFOS, foreresoretetersicrsiate 23 8 LY 52 115 33-3
i EeOn ico si See oases 202; 177 343. 1030" 1,171 803
Mayromac ~cciecr ni Doin aici mma tie ts Penta III 72
Sacsahuanal-c<scesac 210 37 47 344 840 612
Gurahuast 22% ssieess.< 26° 10 33 74 100 60
Alpasondor ........ 26 6 40 65 117 77
Pampaconga: ....¢.4 701 Nik 81 234 348 237
Sallauparcos ....... 40 19 44 80 189-4 12I-I-4
IPICOY pysidoleske se ant 21 II 16 49 100 48-4
Connow Wacces eso. TSU eps-cce 8 Bee Maes 70 41
Chuyant : i cceawdas ss 143 64 156 347 .676—6 454—2
Mollepata.’ cis....... 51 15 30) 0) L100%W 243-2 160-6-6
OlfovGuanca ss. «css: my versie si cho Semmens 24 18
Puqulura hst.o.csa2 229). 86° 236°" “7367 11,077. 725
Chincha and Puquio. 312 147 361 864 1,520-7 774
Pantipataitn. aes 130) 73). JOD. +-4209 | -Gaz 425
Caillaracatesae ccs =. re 22 8 34 59 98 66
Canco and anejos... 686 2906 786 1,057 3,156 2,245-5-4
Pumahuanca <...... 348 86 462 980 1,611 1,085
3,447 1,316 3,443 8,864 14,727-8 9,387-5-2

1873. In the Corregimiento and Province of Cotabambas there
are g repartimientos and in them 15 curacies: 7 of clerics and 8 of
Augustinian friars. The tributaries pay as in the other provinces,
and r tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross ; Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Gotanerasy cscs see: 438 1180 484 1,343 2,233 1,525-7
Huaillamisa ....... 44. 24 46 135 224 123-5
Cotabambasi. ..cntecs 1,341 182 1,412 4,237 7,193-I-II 5,128-5-4
Omasayossiccceeacns T5157. 557% 432 4,123) 6,270—-5-10 4,458-5-4
Haquira Yanaguaras 777 278 037 2,270 4,304-3-I0 2,835-5-5
Piti Yanaguaras ... 603 250 746 1,864 3,842—~4 2,7290—4
Naray Yanaguaras . 330 117 406 947 1,956 1,267-4
Yanaguaras Malmay-
MAS) “Riots cissters dere 406 153 528 1,413 2,310-4 1,462
Huancollo and Cha-
CAL A oe 253 148 251 £650 1,4I5-1 883-5

5,439 1,889 5,242 16,982 29,738-2-11 20,414-5-5 gr

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA JS

1874, In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Aymaraes there
are 8 repartimientos and in them 14 curacies: 11 of clerics and 3 of
Mercedarian friars, with salaries according to the list. The Indians
pay as in other provinces, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Collana Aymara .... 2,785 1,147 3,446 8,836 12,592 8,932
Maypeaylloj ea... «6 < 1,896 1,156 2,149 5,195 8,542-0 5,964-6-8
Cayao Aymara ..... 874 243 829 2,744 3,756 2,600
Challhuancay o3..62- 446 268 500 1,297 2,025-6-8 1,370-6-8
Mudca and Payraca. 329 186 360 908 1,491-5 959-5
@uichuasa.. +. .5< 2. 755 774 1,236 3,113 3,361-4 1,992-4
ANNIE Boagogode 197 148 529 4529 #8 803-1-8 542-7-8
Huamanpalpas ..... 339: 213 1,354 1,354 1,507—4 841-7

7,021 4,135 9,225 23,976 34,169-6-1 23,204-5

1875. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Chilques there
are 27 repartimientos and in them 9 curacies: 4 of clerics and 5 of
Mercedarian friars. Each tributary pays at the rate of 4 assay pesos
6 tomines and I grano, and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
@machawieee ce eee ee 311 1390 ©6©63348~—S 859_—s«d,,745-2-8 932-5-6
ELUANUGMITO: os ae e's «< 161 ye 142 302 705 481-2
Corcamarasaca ...5 74, 17 4100 276 339 224
Curimarcave. 202. 20 3 22 36 04 67
Ganchat -Aaecres.o- «21 47 8 CA TOs) 220 157
sbantarcallarerac.cc. 26 I 20 24 117 79
Wnchutrcoeses.....: « Ch TRU An. Mere ee 99 66
COLOrowee ees ces nee 7) 81 36 =. 305 251
ESKApItOmettte teres. <= = 62 18 TAP ATSON =. 285 198
IMia'sca'si ttiateren ic ola eke 196. 130° 207 567 #920 537-1-6
Pacanitampo cuca. ce TOE) O50) 205, 12335 855-6-9 541-6-9
Cayaotambo ....... 181 82 Ir 433 854-3 444-3
Coleanpata eas. 6 < 245 68 216 541 1,139-4-9 605-7-9
(Ncchae senna ses 623 224 575 1,508 2,951-4-9 1,976-4-9
Billpintomeeeeacse ss. 263 115 417) | 795) '1,600=7 1,015-7
Cauraulpo ieeeaca.i a 18I 100 253 536 8406 348-2
MRantareesaes.c oicve erev0'eke 49 12 34 88 224 134-3
Suticuchucho ...... 109 70 6r 266 513-6-7 212-6-7
Cayaptambo \....... 2058 45 196 §=©369 )3)— 950-4 560
(Capi Marcie ered creceisie:s 31 4 26 80 ‘41 08
Pinca scmias cisters.« 3's 27 3 22 62 148 109
Micheachucho ..... 130/59 20 TE20) 1442" 1647 446
Cajapucdtaes cas .< s.: 261) 15 16 75 170 84-7
Coyaneo! see -ccic os =e 65) 25)" 101 173. 305-1-6 132-2
Collanatambo ...... GOW! BOO ears 1) 42509) 04 24=1 225-7
WMbocoachietece ser cece 17 5 32 32 75 54

3,586 1,312 3,723 8,650 17,146-7 10,214-4-6

714 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1876. In the Corregimiento and Province of Chumbivilcas there
are IO repartimientos and in them 12 curacies: 8 of clerics, 3 of
Dominicans, and 1 Mercedarian, with the salaries indicated on the
lists. Each tributary pays at the rate of 5 assay pesos 3 tomines, and
1 more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Llusco Aymara..... 842 331 864 1,473 4,523-4 3,184-3
Capacmarca, .25.-.- 278 128 373 828 1,608-4 1,045-2
IM pay wcrrelteere eee II 8 17 33 58 29-6-7
AIO age reactors ati ere 630 223 430 1,430 3,373-4-4 2,449-I-4
PeCHann Dt. Ao Sceahalesc 283 146 224 2,013 1,396-6-9 540-6-7
Cotahuast "2. 6. <5. 302 78 369 ~=#=517 1,479-7-9 570-5-I1
Wielilleet sks acc QI5 401 980 2,174 5,20I—6 3,535-1-6
INTICOVO Setters ots 'e.clesers 198 65 245 £232 1,059-2 833
TeivitaGas wcn.re «ccc 479 233 640 1,408 2,484-1 1,539-5-3
Caratupay wacieces ners 663 216 743 41,719 3,537-4-7 2,420-5-7

4,601 1,829 4,804 11,836 24,812-5-6 16,068-5-5

1877. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Parinacochas
there are 4 repartimientos and in them 14 curacies: 7 of clerics and
7 of Dominicans. Each tributary pays at the rate of 5 assay pesos
and 2 tomines, and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Parinacocha, .2..<.- 1,481 524 1,462 2,871 7,806-2-7 5,139-I-6
Pumatambos ....... 1,407. , 450. 1,227 35153) 7.585 4,602
Guaynacotas) 2.2.0 1,013 360 637 2,307 5,307 3,105-5-2
Collana. Wy a.eeeeees 1,003 380 1,080 3,160 5,265-6 3,122-4

4,904 1,714 4,406 11,274 25,964—7 15,969-2-8

1878. In the Province and Corregimiento of Andahuailas there
are 6 repartimientos and in them 11 curacies of clerics with the salaries
indicated for them in the lists. Each tributary pays at the rate of
3 asSay pesos 5 tomines and 4 granos.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
HMuancarama, ..o-5.. 317. 192 347 1,057 1,459-5-5 1,053—5
Andahuatlas' esse. 3,130 1,019 3,127 9,110 12,507-5-7 7,043—3
Gayaracas sacaceer te G2) 147, 4385) 1.055). e106 684
Ongoy hie nce eee 160 ~=QI 62 256 5096-2 292-7-4
Onipa wSertaeh cee 206 70 200 597 745-4 521-5-6
@cobamba pe e-.s ace 213) 165 164 4II 744-2 478-2

4,347 1,584 4,344 12,486 17,231-3 10,072-7-6

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 715

1879. The converted Indians residing in the parishes of the city
of Cuzco pay for religious instruction and other expenses 7,689

assay pesos.
Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Culcura Emarasaya. SO) LO 75 170) . 290 187
Arapa Antamachay. 142 39 115 206 7086-3 483-5-3
Gaya ee aeios sues 57 Aneto 64 162 280 180
Uro and Camana... 51 13 A301 271 05250 160
Wanacotamescracis.... 61 9 61 163 300 192
PumamarCae a... a. - 145°) 9.35 157300)" 715 460
GCACHONAE EHH larelaa ere < 44 II AAW Shot eee 2r5 140
@HOCOMS sae iecine. oss 49 II 33 TA = T45 45-7
Hiuancarlara.....:. 17 5 24 57 80 54
Sayllawenceheeecc. ot 30 18 63 48 165 81
Parish of the Hos-

pitalst ery eiewes * LOO/ ire tisy\ pescteuy Cs Sane 540 304
Parish of Belén..... AZCR ree tke! = ee a EO 875
Panishwotesanta Anal 250u sicee, secs) \ etc 774 578
Parish of San Cris-

CODA A tiem okie wae Tega oot rg Ua Se eee te tT 323 1,923 1,023?
Rarishvot oa blas.s | 504) s.0<° «com sade) (O02 1,172
iPanishmotsoantiagOss SIO! aes. « ssscu, snee 057 693
Parish of San Sebas-

ELAM persis 5.5) oF TO 2s cock iy afer: hacen? -AOO) NY 1h My git Pecan.
San’ Jeronimo ...... QAM ate theirs, s FD ah tents

248 1161 679 1,538 10,937-6-3 6,718-4-3

1880. At the general inspection of Viceroy Don Francisco de
Toledo there were in the repartimientos of the 15 corregimientos
of the district of the city of Cuzco sixty-seven thousand five hundred
and fifty (Marg.: 67,550) Indians paying tribute. Each year they
paid in currency and kind three hundred and twenty-four thousand
four hundred and ninety-two pesos, seven tomines, and one grano
(Marg.: 324,492-7-1), Los Aymaraes being taxed at the rate of
64 assay pesos, and Los Uros at 35. But at present by the latest
reinspections they pay in the other currency and kind three hundred
and twenty-three thousand three hundred and seven pesos, six tomines,
and nine granos (Marg.: 323,307-6-9). According to the reinspec-
tion there is a drop of one thousand eight hundred and ninety Indians
paying tribute; by the latest reinspections there were sixty-five
thousand six hundred and sixty tributaries (Marg.: 65,660).

DISTRICT OF THE DIOCESE OF LA PAZ

1881. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Pacajes there
are Q repartimientos and in them 12 curacies of clerics with the

716 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

salaries indicated on the lists. They pay tribute as in other provinces,
and I tomin more for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Gallapa vate. sere - 1,224 239 1,836 3,512 8,534 5,306
BigepMachacan ees. =. 1,310 270. 1,751 3,461 8,528 5,699
Little Machaca..... 802 186 922 2,400 4,978 1,738
Caquiaviri Anansaya 829 219 1,177 2,319 5,105 3,923
Caquiaviri Deunsaya 684 183 963 1,960 4,233 3272
Wilachialuaeae ca Sets snyere 855 144 1,705 870 5,195 3,855
ELUAQUIN {ae eer seicies < 1,286 167 2,697 1,650 6,064 3,415
Miahtwanaco) oc... 868 222 1,780 1,459 4,099 3,619
Caquingora) 20.2.5... 1,615 386 2,484 4,503 9,043 7,511

9,473 2,016 15,315 24,233 57,979-6 38,338

1882. In the Province and Corregimiento of Caracollo there are
Q repartimientos and in them II curacies of clerics; 5 belong to the
Archdiocese of the Charcas and 6 to the Diocese of La Paz. They
pay tribute according to the assessment in the adjoining provinces,
and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
INVOAY Oust meee: 457 92 732 1,416 2,825 1,665
Calamarcas sae... 3904 84 876 78 2,344 1,384
Garacollomea ac osece 853 162 2,209 1,064 5,043-2 3,586-2
SICASICAw arileehio ie 572, 117 1,350. 740) 33532 2,284
SUED face siens cee 104 49 278 107°‘ 1,803-4 1,206
Ghaper ssa oe ane 19 5 26 53 104-7 68-3
Yanacacha Chuare.. 93 20 188 £183 ~«# 865 574-7
Ghapiss ca.eorroe. 06 5 123 93 929 567
Chapis de Oyune.... 548 242 648 1,491 3,324-4 1,877-4
Quichuas"de(Oyune. Soek ences. ee tes ler ene. eieiciests

3,172 776 6,520 5,716 21,760-1 13,207

1883. In the Province and Corregimiento of Paucarcolla there are
7 repartimientos and in them 7 curacies of clerics. Each tributary
pays at the rate of 65 assay pesos, and I tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys’ Women tribute tribute
Capachica: R..ca 23: 1,303 245 1,038 2,774 6,567-4 4,693
PAIN; shod sealer cress 983 225 1,065 2,132 4,870 3,421
Eluancane> Je) ec ceies 753 193 806 1,642 4,163 2,581
Paticancollauy. severe 1,003 205 1,059 2,319 5,082 3,005
GOatamiccecheouen nie AAS 27) 207. 9 7345 e627, 1,104
Mohoyconima ...... 585 I51 649 1,383 3,03I-5 1,850
Walauetdicwcsinaacrines 325 55 273 + #24609 1,680 1,129-2

5,400 1,401 5,187 11,593 27,023-I 17,784

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 7M.

1884, In the Province and Corregimiento of Omasuyo there are
II repartimientos and in them 12 curacies: 8 of clerics, 2 of Augus-
tinian, and 2 of Mercedarian friars. The Aymaraes pay at the rate
of 6 pesos 7 tomines and 9 granos each, and the Uros, 4 pesos, and
I tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

Payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
WAala tec yeio seteaiciss 8 3s 752 116 608 065 4,634 3,390
Otmmnaquitaras.....- 106 9 62 158 371-6 246
Felarinialy myaealrs «<6 < 1,419 325 1,516 2,644 7,990 5,535-4
Hachacache®.'...05... 1,713 278 1,545 3,152 9,441-4 7,062-4
WAVE ect nee ceiciearie’% 107) 3 193 403 792 484
Ancoraymes ....... TEA 1 S5 223 0 O22 650
@opacabanaye.c:-. 1,041 75 1,186 2,643 5,240 3,750
Fiuancascotsceass +s 70 29 186 155 455-2 379
Garabucon ees cose -c F274 1530) s7IS) 12770 035771 2,789
ttcataiiie pas cei cs 1,227 214 1,315 2,042 7,103 4,946-4
EltiatchOmee ieee eres. 529 198 528 1,211 2,306-2 2,018-2

7,932 1,858 9,009 15,463 40,725 31,260-6t

1885. In the Province and Corregimiento of the Larecaja there
are 8 repartimientos and in them Io curacies of clerics. Each tribu-
tary pays at the rate of 6 baskets (cestos) of coca, and 1 tomin for
their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Songochechallana and
Ghacapays J... 55:05 457 65 454 963 3,638-2 1,643-2
Characanecalixana,
Mocomoco and
@manatae sacs cs- 680 213 1,541 1,177 4,778-1 2,376?
Gamata vas oeiscseees:s 160 34 41,183 213 = 1,570-4 865-4
(AGM ball dewester.rorse taro 350 58 £358 684 1,042 621
Larecaja and Usadea 229 66 320 #8637 = 1,516 916
PAA Ata cic syetaie'e' esi sie 4I 6 44 123 260 I5I
itlabayal Jace. ssc. 34 3 30 73, 226-4 139
VYungaside Pere. ...: 23 4 19 307) 1231 a7.
1,974 449 2,043 3,900 13,262-3 7,383

DISTRICT OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF THE CHARCAS

1886. In the Province and Corregimiento of Paria there are 3
repartimientos and in them ro curacies: 6 of clerics and 4 of Augus-
tinian friars, with the salaries indicated on the lists. The Indians
pay as in the other provinces. Here are the mines of Oruro and
the town of Philip of Austria (San Felipe de Austria.)

=i Seed

718 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women tribute tribute
Paniache pence 3,801 882 4,200 8,451 14,470 9,378
Aullagas and Uru-
quillasy perc rcjacr 1,371. 157 ,123. 2,202 (6,102 3,864
Quillacas and Asana-
GileSran bene ec 2,545 381 2,805 5,795 13,441 9,389
7,717 1,420 8,126 16,448 34,373 22,631

1887. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Garangas, there
are 4 repartimientos and in them 10 curacies of clerics with the
salaries on the lists. The Indians pay as in the other provinces.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
dliGtonasMes ctor 1,338 443 3,586 1,669 7,325-6 5,260
Colquemarca and An-
Gamancay necro 2,267 372 4,891 1,484 12,068 8,723
Chuquicota and Za-
Valllad is aj0 ciel anercconte 2,385 480 5,092 4,029 11,610-7 7747-7
Wnnocaree! sete oss 264 203 465 223 = 1,316-6 054
PROtAIY bo aap 6,254 1,498 14,033 7,405 32,321-3 22,684-7

1888. In the Province and Valley of Cochabamba the Corregi-
miento has 4 repartimientos, and in them 10 curacies: 8 of clerics
and 2 of Augustinian friars with the salary (sinodo) indicated on
the lists. The tributaries pay as in the other provinces.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
SIPESIPE s. c/eejsjerstsrers 304. 96 288 712 = 1,933-2t-4 724-3-1
Shanacanle wets tsietee 1,173 240 555 3,046 7,437 5,514
Titipayay qos sess ere 504 183 507. 1,289 3,189-4 2,280-4
Santiago del Paso... 364 224 222 661 2,313-6-1 1,267—4-6
Sum total... ..<- 2,345 743 1,662 5,708 14,873-4-5 9,786-3-7

1889. In the Province and Corregimiento of Chayanta there are
5 repartimientos and in them 7 curacies of clerics. The tributaries
pay as in the other provinces.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Mioromoro” & sceicee ls 279. 80. 345). 7OA. 1,720 1,190
Caracara Soa.ckh enc 17010 1Y'SO 184 390 990 449
IMachaie”.kaascreerter 2,088 378 2,632 5,363 12,985 9,056
Chavanta ic tees ce 2,167 27 3,354 6,356 13,458 9,975
SaGacau we vacers celine 1,049 272 1,196 2,544 6,523 4,516

5.759 813 7,632 15,417 45,685 25,186

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 719

1890. In the Province and Corregimiento of the town and mines
of Porco there are 5 (47) repartimientos and 12 curacies: 9 of
clerics, 2 of Mercedarian friars, and 1 Augustinian, with the salaries
as on the list. Each tributary pays at the rate of 6 assay pesos 4
tomines and 6 granos, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Visisa and Caiza.... 562 520 223 1,390 3,044—I-9 1,720-1-9
@haquite casi s seks 512. 990 3377'S: 837-3, 271-3-1 2,324-7-1
Cacumapicachuri ... 2902 99 189 459 = 1,906-7 924-7-2
Ainley. oats 1,164 314 1,482 3,008 7,165 4,915
Potobamba and Ta-
Gobambayesus. cs - 350 142 412 £4Q16 2,206-7 1,333-7

2,880 1,174 2,683 6,613 18,283-2-10 11,218-7

1891. In the Province and Corregimiento of Los Amparaes and
Yanaconas of the city of La Plata, there are 11 repartimientos and
in them 17 curacies: 13 of clerics, 2 of Dominican friars, and 2 of
Mercedarians, with the salaries indicated in the lists. Each tributary
pays at the rate of 7 assay pesos, and 1 tomin for their hospital.

Tribute Old Gross Net

payers people Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Pachamenceient races. 95 48 340 476 665 31
Condes de Arabates. 326 45 3090 554 1,123 1,386
Ingas Gualparocas .. 135 49 135 335 872 579
ENMPATAES eeuyecs.e se 506 I19 646 1,400 3,680 2,602
Churumatas and

IMoyOSi see at os Ss 152 17 90 252 1,057 733
Moyos de Barba.... 113 5 57 155 784 543
Moyos de Luna..... 131 15 QI 202 9gI0 633
Moyos de Pasifia.... 48 6 38 75 320 225
Moyos of His Maj-

ESUYAy ste racreworeiel svategsve 32 I 17 40 317 153
Moyos de Marmolejo 47 3 30 62 322 228
Moyos de Gallardo... 28 I 12 34 189 133

1,673 309 1,766 3,575 11,248 7,246

1892. In the Corregimiento and frontier post of Tomina there
are I repartimiento and 6 curacies; 4 of them are in the valleys
and farm lands of the Spaniards, and 2 in Indian villages; in them
there are 2 clerics and 4 Dominican friars. The Indians pay as in
the other provinces.

Tribute Old Gross Net
payers people Boys Women tribute tribute

Garabucomerecce one: 476 141 500 1,148 3,257-5 2,300-5

720 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

The Yanaconas in this province are not tabulated for their exact
number is not known.

1898. In the Province and Valley of Misque in the district of the
Diocese of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, there are 5 repartimientos and
in them 6 curacies: 2 of clerics and 4 of Franciscan friars with the
salaries indicated on the lists. The Indians pay tribute as in the other

provinces.
Tribute Old Gross Net

payers peonle Boys Women _ tribute tribute
Masque asisv.c sro sions 201 8&4 82 13I 1,380 722-1-6
IPOCOMAL Nar tecssis.s as 575. 246 -" 440" 574 33813 2,226-6
Avyqiilewiistec. ctrsists) cise AG. Tt 35 61 266 164
Totora de Dofia Bea-
GEIZe yeceettte isi cisszrers 30. 10 22 71 75-6? 225?
Totora de Dofia Ma-
VOU calspeodecveveles 27 5 31 65 405 187-4
880 356 662 902 5,940 3,525-3-6

1894. General summary of the Indians formerly and at present
paying tribute in the districts of the cities of Cuzco, La Paz, Chuqut-
saca, Arequipa, Guamanga, and the Provinces of Chucuito, Atacama,
and Lipes; the number remaining at the reinspections; and what
they pay, with indication of the shrinkage.

Former What Number Loss Loss

tribu- they at rein- Present in in

taries paid spection tribute numbers tribute
Tia, Paz... ekcisrers 28,612 164,800 28,302 163,906-3t 320 1,707
Chuquisaca. ..... 32,492 177,207-5 29,908 159,031-5t 2,584 18,175-6-7
Cuzco’ tis 2 face ees 67,550 324,992-5-1 65,660 323,507-6t-5 1,890 1,185——4
Arequipa ....... 23,943 118,314-2 16,972 83,566-6t-5 6,971 25,749-4-2
Guamanga’s....- 22,162 84,254-6 16,542 50,576-6 5,620 10,036-4
CHuCUit. arraietais« 17,779 81,958-7 13,364 66,623-2-6 4,415 15,324-5-6
Atacama and

Thipes: fetus cst. e eer on Wh esate 902; they were not listed.

There were 192,538 Indians; they paid 951,527-5-7. At present
there are 171,650; they pay in tribute 856,o11-3-7. The falling off
in numbers is 21,790, and in tribute, 82,168-4-7 (pesos, tomines,
and granos.)

(List oF CiTIiEs AND Towns)

As regards the district of the Secretariat of Peru and the Spanish
Main, they will be listed by Circuit Courts (Audiencias) and
Dioceses.

WHOLE VOL.

THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

N
tN
4

1895. District of the Circuit Court of Panama.

Panama.

Puerto Bello.

Chiriqui, or Santiago de Al-
janje.

Los Remedios.

Concepcion de La Vega.

City of

cc “cc

“c ae

-
-
~
a

”
a
-~

‘

Town of Pueblo Nuevo.
So sIeOSs Satitos:

Nata.

Montijo.

Chepo.

Santa Fé.

“ “
“ “cc

“ “cc

City of

1896. District of the Circuit Court of Santa Fé de Bogota, located

in the New Kingdom of Granada.

City o

oc “cc

Santa Fé de Bogota.

Tunja.

Vélez.

Pamplona.

Mérida.

Barinas.

Pedraza.

San Matias.

“and Mines of Muso and Trinidad.

y mot LanPalma:.

and Mines of Mariquita or Lajas.

of Ivagué.

and Mines of Antioquia.

“ “ “ “ Zaragoza.

Los Remedios.

Caceres.

San Jeronimo del
Monte.

San Sebastian de
Ia Plata.

1897. Diocese of Cartagena.

City of Cartagena.
Town of Mompos.
tae! <P olits

1898. Diocese of Santa Marta.

City of Santa Marta.
** Sevallat
=: sCordoba:

“« “© Tamalameque.

City o

“ “

Salazar de Las Palmas.
San Juan de Los Llanos.
Guadalajara de Buga.
Madrigal, or Chapanchica.
Toro.
Santa Ana de Anzerma.
Santiago de Arma.
Caramanta.
San Vicente de Los Paeses.
Mocoa.
Caloto.
San Juan de Trujillo.
Los Sucumbios.
Tocayma.
Santiago de la Atalaya.
Town of Leyba.

Se MarGritas

© San Cristobal:

“ “San Juan de Borja.

Town of Vallamo.
City and Mines of Guamaco.

City of Los Reyes del Valle de Upar.
“ “Nombre de Jesus.

Town of Ocafia.
«© Tenerife.

The two following cities, although in the Diocese of Santa Marta,
belong in the district of the Circuit Court of Santo Domingo:

City of La Ramada.
47

City of Rio de la Hacha.

722 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1899. Diocese and State of Popayan: part of it is in the District
of the Circuit Court of the New Kingdom of Granada, and part in
that of the Circuit Court of Quito.

City of Popayan. City of Agreda.
“« “" Almaguer. ue pakealls.

eee aman. a) Gartago:
Eo) “focayma']:

1900. District of the Circuit Court of Quito.

City of San Francisco de Quito. City of Cumbinama, or Loyola.
“« * Villaviciosa de Pasto. ets Nieves
8 a eae baeza: * “© Valladolid:
“ “” Archidona. “Santiago de Las Montafias.
oun bila: TownofSan Miguel de Ybarra, or
“San Pedro de Alcala del Rio. Carangue.
¢ “*. Beijas « —“" Latacunga.
“© Sevilla del Oro en Macas. “and Mines of San Antonio de
“ “Santiago de Guayaquil. Zaruma.
*«', "Puerta: Viejo, City of Castro in the Vili Valley.
« “* iGuenca. Town of El Villar de Don Pardo de
AST ova Riobamba.
“ “Zamora.

1901. District of the Circuit Court of Lima de Los Reyes.

City of Los Reyes, or Lima. Town and port of Pisco.
“Leon de Huanuco de los Ca- “of Arnedo in the Chancay Val-
balleros. ley.
Town of Santa, or La Parrilla. cee Elatiras
ee ‘>. (Canete: & > wawNasca:
“and port of Callao. “© Carrion de Velasco.

“ce

of Ica.

1902. Diocese of Trujillo.

City of Trujillo. City of Moyobamba.
“© San Miguel de Piura. Town of Safia, or Miraflores.
“Chachapoyas. Sith) (Gajamanca
“Jaén de Bracamoros. Mines of Siguas.

1903. Diocese of San Juan de La Vitoria de Guamanga.

City of Guamanga. Town of Villa in the Huanta Valley.
“and Mines of Castrovirreyna. and Mines of Huanta.
Town and Mines of Huancavelica, or
Oropesa.

“ce

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 723

1904. Diocese of Cuzco.

City of Cuzco. City and Mines of Vilcabamba.
“© San Juan del Oro. Town and Mines of Carabaya.
“and Mines of San Francisco de Town of Abancay.

La Victoria. “ “© ‘Oropesa.

1905. Diocese of Arequipa.

City of Arequipa. Town of Camana.
“and port of San Marcos de « —“ Santa Catalina in the Mo-
Arica, quegua Valley.

1906. District of the Circuit Court of the Charcas.

City of La Plata, or Chuquisaca. Town and Mines of Tupiza.
Town and Mines of Potosi. 8 i s - urque:
F . : “San Felipe de Fa if i “ San Vicente.
Austria, or “of Oropesa in the Cochabamba
Oruro. Valley.
eS is ss lz OncO: SS El Vallar.
. o 1 “ Berenguela. “San Juan de Rodas.
i 5 os “ Valmisa. Seeeec mi ayce
i s i i) \ialocas “ < Paspayas
is ss 4 “ Colquiri. oe re ominias
x : eS meelzoseleipess See Vatias

1907. Diocese of Tucuman.

City of Santiago del Estero. City of Salta, or Lerma.
ba Cordoba: ea tiitiye
“San Miguel del Tucuman. Se nlcarRiojas
“ “© Talavera de Madrid. 221) eo Londres:

=

Siiadelsteco. Of Ieas juntas: San Juan de La Ribera.

1908. Diocese of Buenos Ayres.

City of La Trinidad. City of San Juan de Vera, or Siete
Se ekoantaute: Corrientes.
“© Rio Bermejo.

1909. District of the Circuit Court of Chile.

City of Santiago de Chile. City of San Luis de Loyola.
“© La Serena, or Coquimbo. * San Juan de Cuyo.
“© “Mendoza.
1910. Diocese of Santa Cruz de La Sierra.
City of Santa Cruz de La Sierra. Town of Las Salinas in the Misque

“San Lorenzo de la Barranca. Valley and Rio de Pisuerga.

724 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1911. Diocese of Paraguay.

City of Asuncion. City of La Guayra.
SS Jerez: Town of Villarica.

1912. Diocese of La Concepcion, i.e., that of La Imperial.

City of La Concepcion. City of Castro en Chiloé.
« —“ La Bartolomé de Chillan.

In this diocese six cities were abandoned because of the Indian
rebellion in Chile.

1913. So that there are in the district of the Spanish Main, Peru,
the Kingdom of Chile, Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres, 173
Spanish settlements; 116 of them are cities, listed by the districts
of their Circuit Courts and Dioceses, and indicated by the letter C;
and 57 towns (villas), (all of them designated by the letter T), and
those with the letter M are mines. But others should be added which
have fewer inhabitants, and many others which are mixed cities of
Spaniards and Indians.

There are one hundred and sixteen cities......... 116
There are fifty-seven towns: 60.4.5. 0500s oostes os 57

Boox VI

Of the District of the Circuit Court of the Kingdom of Chile,
Describing the Nature of That Kingdom and Its Provinces, the
Savagery and the Customs of Its Indians, the Products of the Soil,
the Founding of Its Cities, and the Abandonment of Some of Them,
Together with the Authority Exercised There by His Majesty in
Consultation with the Supreme Council, and That of the President
of That Circuit Court, with Other Features of the Country.

CHAPTER I

Description of the Kingdom of Chile, and the Founding of Its
Cities.

1914, The Kingdom of Chile is bounded by the Province of Ata-
cama and its deserts. It is so called from a valley and river, the
Rio de Quillota, where there were rich gold mines, and still are today,
for all that Kingdom is paved with this metal. The first Spaniard
to explore this Kingdom was Commander Don Diego de Almagro in
the year 1536; he had spent the whole year 1536 in progress from
the Provinces of Los Chichas through that of Jujuy and then the
Province of Los Chicoanas; he was accompanied in all these trials
by good Paullu Inca, son of Huayna Capac, and great-grandfather
of Don Melchior Inca, Knight of the Order of Santiago.

1915. From Chicoana they traveled some days’ journeys through
deserts and over saltpeter beds, suffering much from hunger and
hardships, till they finally descried the Cordillera and the lofty snow-
clad sierras. That was the greatest hardship they suffered. The
Commander went first with a troop of light cavalry, to reconnoiter
the way and look for some source of supply for his army. It took
him 3 days to reach the top of the highest range, the one running
from Junto to Santa Marta; from its peak they made out the Copiapd
Valley 12 leagues away on the seacoast.

1916. Next the army crossed the terrible snow-covered Cordillera ;
the country was so high, the winds so keen, their weakness and
fatigue so great that they were frostbitten and the breath of life
failed them; it was still worse at night with the extreme cold pre-
vailing and the chill of the snow. Thirty horses of the troop died
and many Negroes and Indians were frozen to death; one Negro

725

720 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

leading a horse by the bridle stopped on hearing some noises and
both the horse and he were frozen stiff. Many more would have
perished had they not been succored by the Indians of the Copiapo
Valley ; with food and the cheering view of the valley they recovered.

1917. The same thing happened to the part of the army which
Rodrigo Ordofiez had under his charge; climbing up the terrible
snow-covered Cordillera they met a very cold wind, which grew
so much worse at night that most of the Negroes and Indians were
frozen to death; many had fingers and toes frostbitten and the nails
fell off. Some Spaniards under a canvas were caught in such a
blizzard that they were buried alive there with their Negroes and
Indians; 26 horses were frozen stiff, saddles and all; and almost
all the baggage was abandoned on that mountain ridge, in order to
save their lives. Those dead bodies remain there, suffering no corrup-
tion or putrefaction. There was a boy among those who crossed the
mountains with the Commander ; they stayed in some shanties, going
out only to cut flesh off the dead horses but without enough energy
to make their way out from that spot; the wind finally carried them
all off, and only the boy came out alive.

1918. After all these trials the Commander and his army reached
the Kingdom of Chile late in the year 1536; but having got word
that Juan de Rada had received the commission advancing him to
the command of the New Kingdom of Toledo, in whose district lay
the imperial city of Cuzco, he enjoyed no fruit of his labors; his
only achievement was to restore to a young gentleman of the Copiapo
Valley his estate and seigniory, wrongfully appropriated by a relative
who had administered them as his guardian. He might have explored
and subdued that great Kingdom, and that would have been of
greater avail to him; but he returned with his men to Peru to take
up his governorship, and that was the cause of dissensions, ruin, and
the death of himself, of the Marquis, and of many friends of each

of them.

Cuap. Continuing the Theme Broached in the First Chapter,
and How Pedro de Valdivia Subdued the Kingdom of Chile.

1919. The second Spaniard who entered the Kingdom of Chile
was Gov. Pedro de Valdivia in the year 1540, 4 years later than
Commander Diego de Almagro. The Kingdom of Chile begins on the
N. with the fertile Copiapo Valley, which is at 27° S. This is the
boundary with the Province and deserts of Atacama along the coast,
the last province in Peru, in the district of the Circuit Court and
Archdiocese of the Charcas. Although this is a small valley it is very

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 727

fertile and corn yields very plentifully here. It contains the vineyard
and sugar enterprises of Gen. Francisco de Aguirre, and mines of
turquoises and other precious stones. The Governor of Chile appoints
a Corregidor for the administration of justice in this valley and that
of Titon and Huasco.

1920. Thirty-five leagues S. of this valley lies that of Huasco,
and between the two that of Titon. There are vineyards in both of
them; they make some wine and harvest abundant crops of corn,
wheat, and other cereals and fruit. There are many partridges,
guanacos, fallow deer, and squirrels with wonderful fur for linings,
and other valuable and highly prized animals. This Huasco Valley
is in full 29° S. All the Indians on this coast are fishermen. It does
not rain here, just like all the rest of the Peruvian plains; they have
puquios or jagtieyes, which are wells, from which they get drinking
water, for they lack water in all that region and coast.

1921. From Huasco it is 24 leagues S. to the port of Coquimbo,
which is at 30°30’ ; that is about 2 leagues from the city of La Serena,
which is the first city with Spanish residents, as one comes from
Peru. It was founded by Gov. Pedro de Valdivia on a plain by the
bank of a small stream in the year 1544, after he had explored part
of that Kingdom and first founded the city of Santiago de Chile.
La Serena is a short half league from the sea; it has an admirable
climate with bright skies and healthy breezes. It rains rarely in that
region, for the rainless plains district of Peru comes as far as this.
It has 100 Spanish residents, not counting the service Indians and
Negroes. It contains a parish church, Dominican, Franciscan, and
Mercedarian convents, a hospital for the care of the indigent sick,
and other churches and shrines.

1922. This country is very rich in gold, for it is all paved with it.
Little is extracted, for lack of labor and water, there being no rain.
It has copper mines which are the best in the Indies, because of the
large amount of gold in the ore. The copper taken from these mines
was used for the casting of all the culverins and artillery pieces
of the Callao forts, and also for those on the ships of the navy in
that Kingdom.

1923. The residents have farms of wheat, corn, and other cereals,
and vineyards and olive groves producing quantities of wine and
oil; they have cattle and sheep ranches, and many goats, from which
they make the best cordovan leather in the Indies; there is a large
trade in this and they freight boats with it for Lima. They have all
kinds of Spanish fruit, and strawberries, which they call frutilla
de Chile, and which are very large and delicious. The Governor

728 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

appoints a Corregidor for the good administration of justice in this
city. The city has in its outer district a little over 300 Indians. Near
Coquimbo is the Limari Valley, where there are vineyards and olive
groves and they raise wheat, corn, potatoes, and other cereals and
root crops.

1924, From La Serena S. to the city of Santiago it is 70 leagues,
all covered with farms and cattle and sheep ranches, and with valleys
abounding in vineyards, olive groves, fields of corn and wheat, .and
all kinds of Spanish fruit. In the La Ligua Valley they plant and
harvest quantities of hemp; Guana is in the district of the city of
La Serena, with other villages round about. The Governor appoints
a Corregidor in La Ligua to administer justice.

1925. The Quillota Valley, called also Chile, from which the whole
Kingdom takes its name, had very rich gold mines worked by Gov.
Pedro de Valdivia and from which he gained great wealth. It lies
near the sea close to the port of Valparaiso, which is the chief port
of the city of Santiago. In this valley they raise quantities of hemp
and some flax; the hemp is sold to make rope for the army main-
tained by His Majesty in that Kingdom, and rigging for the ships
on the Pacific; it is transported to Callao near Lima. In the year
1614, when Licentiate Machado, Justice of the Circuit Court of
Chile, inspected that Kingdom, they handled 1,270 quintals; each
quintal was worth 100 reals in the raw (en blanco). At present they
raise more, for it grows well, there is a demand for it, and it pays
well. Flax does well also, but it is not much grown.

CuHapter II

Of the City of Santiago de Chile, Its Founding, and Other Matters
in Its District.

1926. The city of Santiago de Chile was founded and colonized
by Gov. Pedro de Valdivia on January 24, 1541; it was the first
established in the Kingdom, its court city and capital. It lies on a
plain beside the Rio Mapocho, 18 leagues from the port of Val-
paraiso, and 5 from the snow-clad Cordillera to its E.; on that quarter
there is a ridge called Santa Lucia which provides it with some
shelter ; it is at 33° S. The city is liable to be inundated when the
river comes down in flood, but they have given it some protection
with palisades and embankments. It covers the area of a very large
city, for all the houses occupy large plots with gardens and orchards
on them. In the year 1614 it was 14 blocks long E. and W. along
the river bank, and 6 across from N. to S.; they have kept building

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 729

all the time. In that year 1614 it had 346 houses, 285 of them very
well constructed, each with garden and orchard; all kinds of Spanish
fruit are remarkably good here. These houses would average 4,000
pesos in value; the 61 others are worth little; some of them are
thatched with icho or straw. There were 44 shops selling merchandise
and groceries.

In these houses resided 306 married men and 230 bachelors. At
present the city is growing and they are putting up houses. Across
the river is a suburb called La Chimba with many chacras or gardens
containing olive groves, vineyards, large and small peaches, quinces,
pomegranates, pears, apples, pippins, apricots, plums, mazard cherries,
figs, very good melons, and frutilla de Chile, which are large
strawberries.

1927. In the city of Santiago there is a Cathedral with a Bishop
and 9 Prebendaries who reside there and serve it ; there are 35 clerics
and curates who went and said Mass on the chacras and farms.
Besides the Cathedral there are 2 parish churches, those of San
Lazaro and San Saturnino, and 5 convents. The Dominican had 70
friars, with some revenue, a chacra, vineyard, and farm with 6
Negroes to work it; the Franciscan had 4o friars; the Augustinian,
with 30 friars, had a chacra and a vineyard, with 6 Negroes for
service and farm work ; the Mercedarian, 4o friars, with some revenue,
a chacra, vineyard, and cattle ranch; the Jesuits, a few more than
30 friars, with some revenue, a vineyard, a chacra, and a farm with
20 Negroes for service and farm work. This was the state of affairs
in the city of Santiago in the year 1614.

1928. There are 2 convents of nuns, one of Santa Monica and
under the rule, which had 90 nuns, with some income, a chacra, and
a vineyard for the support and comfort of the nuns. The other is
of Santa Clara, under the charge of the Franciscan friars; it was
established by 13 nuns who came from the city of Osorno, which
was abandoned after the rebellion and general uprising of the Chilean
Indians at the end of the year 1598, when they killed Gov. Martin
Garcia de Loyola. His Majesty made them a gift of 6,000 pesos,
with which they bought a plot on which they were building in that
year 1614; at that time they had 30 nuns with some income and a
farm. Today it is an excellent convent and has grown a great deal.

1929. There is a seminary supported by the 3 percent prescribed
by the Council celebrated at Lima in the year 1583 and presided over
by the sainted Archbishop Don Toribio Mogrovejo of glorious
memory, truthful and a good shepherd, full of care and zeal for the
flock of that new church; in this council he assembled all the Bishops

730 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of the Kingdom of Peru, Chile, Tucuman, Rio de la Plata, Panama,
and Nicaragua, who were his suffragans. This college has 8 collegians
with blue sashes ; it has some income, and a chacra for its maintenance.
There is another college under the Jesuit Fathers, where they take
students in as boarding pupils, with a house specially for them; each
pays from 80 to 100 8-real pesos; here they teach them virtue and
letters ; ordinarily there are from 50 to 60 collegians.

1930. The city of Santiago has a hospital for the care of the
indigent sick, with a Superintendent appointed by the Governor to
administer the property of this hospital for the care and comfort
of the poor invalids. It has an income of 700 8-real pesos, and 700
more from the 4 percent assigned it from the ninth of the tithes.
Besides this, it has a gristmill, a chacra, and a cattle ranch. It has
already been taken over by the Brethren of San Juan de Dids for
the service and care of the poor.

The Circuit Court has its seat in this city. It was established for
the second time at His Majesty’s instance by Justice Merlo de la
Fuente of Lima in the year 1609, on Our Lady’s Day in September.
It has 4 Justices and an Attorney. The President, who has the title
of Capa y Espada (Sword and Gown), usually resides in La Con-
cepcidn, which is the fortified post of that Kingdom. The Court’s
jurisdiction extends: on the N., from the Copiapo Valley, which is
at 27° S., and the boundary against the Province and deserts of
Atacama in the district of the Charcas; and on the S., as far as the
city of Castro in the Chiloé Islands, at 43° S., but that is all war
territory. Thus N. and S. it will cover more than 300 leagues in
length; in breadth E. and W. from the snow-clad Cordillera to the
sea, at the most 27 leagues and at the least 19; but on the other
side of the Cordillera to the E. is the Province of Cuyo; from
Santiago to its farthest point will be over 120 leagues.

1931. In the district of the Circuit Court there are 2 Dioceses,
Santiago and La Concepcion. In that of Santiago there are 5 cities:
Santiago, capital of that Kingdom; La Serena, 70 leagues to the N.;
and in the Province of Cuyo, over to the E. across the Cordillera
Nevada, there are 3 cities: San Luis de Loyola, known as Punta
de Venados (Deer Point), with some 20 poverty-stricken Spanish
residents ; there will be in the neighborhood more than a thousand
Huarpes Indians; they have not yet been settled in villages or con-
verted, on account of the weakness of the Spaniards. This city is
120 leagues from Santiago.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—v AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 731

CHAPTER III

Continuing the Description of the Diocese of Santiago de Chile.

1932. The city of Mendoza, which is the capital of the Province
of Cuyo, has as many as 40 Spanish residents and over 1,500 Indians
to convert and civilize ; it is 60 leagues from Santiago. The Governor
appoints for it and for the whole province, a Corregidor to administer
it and dispense justice. The city of Mendoza has Franciscan, Merce-
darian, and Jesuit convents. The country is very fertile and prolific ;
everything planted there does very well. There are very good vine-
yards from which they make quantities of wine which they export
in carts via Cordoba to Buenos Ayres. Wheat yields well; from
one fanega they usually harvest 150; corn does still better. They
have quantities of Spanish fruit, of excellent quality and early
bearing. The land is very fertile in itself, but the people are very
poor, with few possibilities and no help from headquarters, being
so distant and remote.

1933. The city of San Juan is also 60 leagues from Santiago, but
near the city of Mendoza and with the same hot climate. It has 24
Spanish residents, poverty-stricken for the reasons given above,
although the land itself ranks with the best and most fertile in the
world; it has vineyards, sugar plantations, all kinds of Spanish fruit.
There are in the neighborhood a little over 800 Indians of the Huarpes
tribe, like those in the other cities and settlements. Although these
natives are humble and gentle folk, very few have been converted,
because the Spanish residents living there are so powerless. A few
Indians of this Huarpes tribe have been taken to Santiago by the
encomenderos for their service.

In the district of the city of Santiago there are 48 small Indian
villages, assigned to 30 encomenderos. In the 48 villages in the year
1614 when they were inspected by Licentiate Machado, Justice of
that Circuit Court, there were 2,345 Indians, 331 old people, ete.
Tribute payers in the villages were 696; the others were away, some
out on their work, others in the service of their encomenderos. In
these villages of the district of this city and Diocese, and on the
farms, there are 23 curacies, 21 administered by clerics and 2 by friars,

1934. At the above date there were 72 Indian men and 85 Indian
women (?) slaves captured in the war after the slavery proclamation.
There were likewise 501 Huarpes Indians from the Province of
Cuyo residing in the country, of those who had come in for their
mita, and 225 from Peru and Tucuman. There were likewise 481
of the Beliches tribe from these villages, who were artisans: Car-

732 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

penters, 124; tanners, 100; tailors, 33 ; shoemakers, 81 ; silk weavers,
3; ropemakers for rigging, 2; masons, 30; blacksmiths, 7; water-jar
makers, 19; stonecutters, 6; house painters, 4; they all lived and
resided in the outer wards of the city of Santiago; the artisans alone
numbered 409.

Round about the city there were 102 chacras, of wheat, corn,
chickpeas, lentils, kidney beans, and other cereals and vegetables ;
there were some carts (carretas) which brought wood into the city
and transported merchandise from the port and did all else necessary
in the city service. In the city and on the chacras and ranches there
are 41 tanneries in which every year they tan over 30,000 pieces of
cordovan leather, and some hides for soles. On the river bank and
on the chacras and ranches of the district there are 39 gristmills for
wheat, and 3 woolen mills in which they work up and turn out every
year over 14,000 varas of coarse cloth and grograms and more than
500 blankets.

CHAPTER IV

Continuing the Description of the Preceding Subject.

1935. Besides the above there were 354 farms—cattle ranches,
corn, wheat, and other cereals; on them there were some Beliches
Indians and 2,162 Yanaconas—part of them from the upcountry
cities abandoned because of the rebellion of the Indians in that
Kingdom, and others from elsewhere. These Indians are civilized
(Ladinos) ; because their villages and natural surroundings are un-
congenial, or because they are escaping from troubles they might
have at home, or because they are wanderers, they bring themselves
to enter the Spaniards’ service. They are assigned (repartidos) to
these farms, with their wives and children, 4, 6, or more to each,
just as they would naturally settle; normally they live there and
cultivate their own gardens and fields for their necessities, in addition
to what the masters they serve give them in clothing, cash, or food.

On the majority of the farms there are superintendents (mayor-
domos), Spanish soldiers or mestizos, the sons of Spaniards and
Indian women, or mulattoes or free Negroes. These keep track of
the figures for the sowing and the harvest, and see that the people
work and do all else necessary. On all the farms and ranches in the
Indies, of any importance, they are to be found and have excellent
salaries, according to the size of the establishment. In this Kingdom
most are paid one-fourth of the products of the soil and of the stock
bred ; some are paid less, for there is every sort of system.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 738

1936. In this Kingdom there are very large rivers, swollen in
winter with water from the rains and in summer with the great
freshets from the snow melting under the sun up on the Cordillera
Nevada. These all run from E. to W., to the Pacific; with them
they irrigate their property and fields. They are utilized for a dis-
tance of about 40 leagues, in which irrigation produces large amounts
of wheat, corn, barley, chickpeas, lentils, peas (porotos), and other
cereals and vegetables, which yield abundantly; they raise a few
potatoes. The fanega of wheat is usually worth 8 reals; they nor-
mally ship large amounts to Lima when they need it there, and it
is also taken for His Majesty’s camp and army, for the soldiers’
sustenance.

There are quantities of vineyards around Santiago and on the
farms; every year they get more than 200,000 jugs of wine from
them; that was the figure in the year 1614, when they made the
inspection of that Kingdom. In the 3 preceding years they had
planted 498,500 vines, and many more have been set out since then;
the land is very fertile and the vine grows thick, strong, and sturdy ;
they treat it with gypsum and ferment (cocido) as is done in many
places. It is all consumed within the country; some is taken for
His Majesty’s army to the city of La Concepcion.

1937. The residents of Santiago possessed in the district of the
city 39,250 cattle, the yearly increase of which was 13,500; quantities
are slaughtered every year for tallow; they raise oxen for plowing
and for their carts. Every young steer is worth 4 8-real pesos;
an ox broken to work, 8; when a herd is sold, it is at the rate of
12 reals a head. There were on the ranches in the district 4,278
mares, and their annual increase, 1,200; each is worth 4 reals. Riding
horses are worth from 16 to 20 8-real pesos ; sumpter horses, 8 to 10;
choice fine steeds, from 100 to 200 pesos.

They had in the district 323,956 goats, whose annual increase was
94,764; they slaughter quantities of gelded males and of females,
and get over 2,500 quintals of tallow from them annually, worth
13 8-real pesos a quintal, and 25,100 pieces of cordovan leather,
which they ship to Callao for Lima, since it is the best in the King-
dom. Before tanning, each sells for 16 reals; tanning each piece
comes to 34 reals. There were 623,825 sheep, whose annual increase
was 223,944; they slaughter great numbers of them and get on the
average 7,650 quintals of tallow from them every year. The usual
price of a sheep is 2 reals, and a dressed mutton (carnero) the same,
and in the city, 4. They are large, fat, and very good.

734 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

CHAPTER V

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of
Santiago de Chile.

1938. The district and jurisdiction of this diocese cover more than
120 leagues E. and W., as has been remarked, from the city of San
Luis de Loyola, which is the last in the Province of Cuyo, to Santiago,
which is the westernmost. N. and S. it runs from the Copiap6 Valley
to Captain Salvador’s ranch, 16 leagues before the city of La Con-
cepcion. Close to that ranch is the Rio and Province of Maule, which
is the limit of the Diocese of Santiago; the Governor appoints a
Corregidor. Here it borders on the district of the Diocese of La
Concepcion. From the Copiapd Valley to this Rio de Maule and
Captain Salvador’s ranch, it is 183 leagues.

1939. The Governor of Chile appoints in the district of the Diocese
of Santiago to nine Corregimientos, for their good administration
and the dispensing of justice. These are: Santiago; Quillota; Meli-
pilla near the city; Aconcagua, near the Cordillera on the road to
the Province of Cuyo; Colchagua; Maule, which is the boundary
with the territory of the city and Diocese of La Concepcion ; Mendoza,
of Spaniards and Indians, in the Province of Cuyo; La Serena, of
Spaniards; and the Copiapo Valley, of Indians; this is the last
toward Peru.

1940. The salary which these Corregidores receive is 25 percent
of the 25 percent which the Inspectors (Administradores) take in,
except for those of [Acolcagua] Aconcagua and Maule, who have
collection agencies in connection with their offices, and the Corregidor
of Quillota, who has both a small collection agency (administracion)
and 10 percent of the harvest of a grainfield belonging to His Majesty
and under his charge. The Corregidor of Melipilla has the collection
agencies of Melipilla, Pico, and Pomayre, with 200 8-real pesos,
since he has the woolen mill (obrage) under his charge.

1941. The other Corregidores are on the same basis. Furthermore
there are 16 other collection agencies (adminstraciones) ; to make
this intelligible, I would explain that in every Indian village, after
they have exacted the mine levy (tercio de minas) and personal
service and the other contributions, there usually remain in each
village 5 or 6 tribute-paying Indians, more or less, and about as
many old people. The Governors appoint Administradores (Inspec-
tors) in these villages ; these are soldiers who live in the villages and
make these Indians work—planting corn, wheat, and barley ; looking
after the stock owned by the community; if the community owns

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 735

vineyards, tending them and carrying out the vintage. All that is
harvested pays the tithe and then the Administrador takes a quarter
for himself and another quarter for the curate. The rest, 1.e., the
other quarters, belongs to the communal organization of the Indians,
for their necessities and their infirmities; but the Administradores
are lords of all and do what they please, for no accounting is asked
of them, and so they postpone it till when they will have to render
it to God. May His Divine Majesty give due recompense, for the
benefit of the poor Indians! This is a universal evil in all the Indies.

1942. Besides these burdens just mentioned, the poor Indians have
other burdens in addition, in the Protectors whom the Viceroys,
Presidents, or Governors appoint to defend the interests of the In-
dians ; they check on the Administradores and collect the taxes (censos )
and the community income, and in this way they have exhausted
and are exhausting the community property, both because they give
no proper security and because they have more consideration for
their private profit and interests than for those of the poor Indians.

With their office they receive authority and power over all the
property, to make and unmake ; they can sell the livestock and what-
ever else belongs to the community, arbitrarily and with slight
reckoning to make. In Honduras they give them Farm Inspectors
(Juezes de Milpas) to make them plant their crops; in New Spain,
Repartidores (Assessors) ; in Peru, Mill Inspectors and Inspectors
of Community Property (Administradores de Obrages y de Bienes
de Comunidades). All this I saw and considered when I was in those
Kingdoms ; but because I have made a long digression and much
more ought to be said about it, I shall leave it and take up the
Diocese of La Concepcion.

CHAPTER VI

Of the City of La Concepcion, and Other Matters in Its District.

1943. The city of La Concepcion is 70 leagues S. of Santiago,
at 37° S. It was founded by Gov. Pedro de Valdivia in the year
1545, at the water’s edge; its port is Talcahuano. It was abandoned
later, at the time of the revolt of the Araucanian Indians and the
death of Gov. Pedro de Valdivia, in the year 1553, and suffered a
thousand misfortunes; it was burned and sacked and most of its
residents killed by arrogant Captain Lautaro and his savages; but
they went back and rebuilt it, and at present it is His Majesty’s
army post and the usual residence of the Governors of that Kingdom,
since Indian warfare is the most important part of their duties and
this is convenient for that.

730 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

1944, This city has the Cathedral which used to belong to La
Imperial, which was abandoned in the month of April 1600 after
the second Indian revolt, when they killed Gov. Martin Garcia de
Loyola at the end of the year 1598. Don Francisco de Quifiones
who was then Governor of that Kingdom, dismantled the city at the
instance of its residents, as a sequel to many requisitions ; they would
certainly have perished if he had not rescued them from that great
tribulation, as I shall relate, God willing, in the book I am writing
on wars and events in that Kingdom.

1945. The Bishop also resides in the city of La Concepcion, which
has the Cathedral that used to be in La Imperial; he resides at the
Cathedral and serves it with his Prebendaries. There are five con-
vents in this city, Dominican, Franciscan, Augustinian, Mercedarian,
and Jesuit; a hospital for the care of the indigent sick, and a shrine
devoted to Our Lady of the Snows. The city will have 200 Spanish
residents, and in the neighborhood a few Indian villages, which are
small, for they have died off in the war. The Governor appoints
in the district of this Diocese to five Corregimientos: three of
Spaniards—La Concepcion, San Bartolomé de Chillan, and the city
of Castro; and two of Indians, which are Itata and Talcahuano, as
will be related in due course.

1946. In the neighborhood there are many establishments with —

cattle and sheep ranches; on them they raise quantities of wheat,
corn, chickpeas, lentils, kidney beans, porotos, and other cereals;
there are a few vineyards producing wine. Before the Indian revolt
the district of this Diocese was large ; at present it is small, on account
of the war. The Corregidor appointed by the Governor at La Con-
cepcién is an Army Captain with a Spanish garrison; another is
appointed for the city of Chillan, which is 12(?) leagues from
La Concepcion, near the Cordillera. This was built by Marshal Ruiz
de Gamboa on the bank of a river; it is surrounded by a wall, on
account of the Indian war; there is a fort there with eight pieces
of artillery ; the Corregidor has a garrison of a company of infantry.
There are in the city a parish church and Dominican, Franciscan,
and Mercedarian convents.

1947. Another is appointed for the city of Castro, which was
founded in 1567, the year when the mercury mines of Huancavelica
in Peru were discovered, the Governor of Peru being Licentiate
Lope Garcia de Castro, who was succeeded in the governorship by
Don Francisco de Toledo. This city is the last in the Kingdom
of Chile before the Straits. It is built on the largest island in the Chiloé
Archipelago, at 43° S. It will have as many as 4o Spanish residents,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 737

who are poor people; the land bears abundantly wheat, corn, lentils,
and other cereals; there is much gold here, with which they inlay
coats of mail (?mallan volador). The island on which the city is
built will be 50 leagues long, and in width, 10 leagues in places and
more or less in others; it will have 3,000 Indians in apportionment.
It is all covered with woods and forests of fine tough timber; there
are shipyards. It is 18 leagues from the mainland. There is a Fran-
ciscan convent in the city with two friars.

1948. The residents of this city have built wooden enclosures on
the beach with trap doors which they keep raised; when the tide
comes in, they fill up with fish; and when the tide starts ebbing and
going out, they drop the gates and the enclosures are full of fish
on dry ground. All through the woods and forests there are in the
trees great numbers of hives of excellent honey, made by the many
varieties of bees to be found on those islands. There are many of
these islands; some are 30 leagues long, others 20, more or less;
they are covered with forests, and countless goats breed among them.
Our Dutch or English enemies, after coming out from the Straits,
are in the habit of caulking and careening their ships on these islands ;
and since there is nobody to hinder or resist them, they sow and
reap while waiting for a chance to sail, or till they are ready; in fact,
they have twice captured this city. That and many other evils would
be remedied if His Majesty would order a city and fort built at
Valdivia, with 200 married colonists, a fort with 50 bronze pieces,
and a Spanish garrison, as I pointed out in a booklet I wrote in the
year 1625. That would not only be a curb on enemies at sea, for
that fort in such a good harbor and so prolific a country we may
consider as the key to all that Kingdom; it would likewise be a curb
on enemies on land.

CHAPTER VII

Continuing the Description of the District of the Diocese of La
Concepcion.

1949. The Corregidor of the city of Castro has the title of Militia
Captain, with the money grant for a regiment of cavalry. He has
two forts on the mainland, Calbuco and Carelmapu, with two com-
panies, one of cavalry and the other of infantry, all at the charge
of this Corregidor and Militia Captain, for him to make war with
on the rebellious Indians in that region, and keep the peaceable ones
round about and on the Chiloé Islands, from making trouble.

1950. The Corregimiento of Itata lies between La Concepcién
and Chillan, and that of Talcahuano near La Concepcion. The island

48

738 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of Santa Maria lies opposite the Province of Arauco, near where
the great Rio de Biobio empties into the sea; and in front of the
mouth of the Rio de Cautin, which is the river of La Imperial, is
the island of Mocha, with a few peaceable Indians.

1951. Two leagues from the city of La Concepcion is the Rio de
Biobio, which is the war boundary ; on the bank of this river is built
the fort of San Pedro, with a few Spaniards in it, to ensure safe
passage over this river with a flatboat of the sort that in Flanders
they call pontoon, to Arauco, which is 9 leagues from this fort, for
Arauco is the seat of the Militia Captain General of the Kingdom,
with 500 Spanish cavalry and infantry, besides the infantry in the
castle and fort of Arauco, some 100 Spaniards with their warden.
This fort of Arauco is + league from the sea. These Spaniards
campaign along the whole coast, trying to keep the converted Indians
peaceable. Seven leagues beyond Arauco is the fort of Lebu, 4
leagues inland from the coast; this serves the Spaniards as a base
for raids into the enemy’s country.

1952. Six leagues E. of La Concepcion toward the Cordillera and
on the bank of the Rio de Biobio is the fort of Talcamavida, and
6 leagues farther on, the fort of San Rosendo; 4 leagues up the
river, El Nacimiento, which is another fort; and 9 leagues from the
city is the fort of Buena Esperanza (Good Hope), also called Estancia
del Rey (the King’s Ranch), because of the great wheat harvest
which His Majesty gets there every year to help maintain the army.
Two leagues from this position is the fort of San Cristobal, where
a number of Indians have again been settled. Near this post is the
headquarters of the other part of the army, which the Sergeant
Major of the Kingdom has under his charge; this usually comprises
500 Spaniards, cavalry and infantry. These campaign along the
sierra. This is the state of affairs in that Kingdom at present, and
the peaceful situation described in the Diocese of La Concepcion.

Cuapter VIII

Describing the Kingdom of Chile, the Provinces Which Were
Subdued and the Cities That Were Established in Them.

1958. Before the war and general uprising of the Indians of Chile,
this Diocese was very rich and had very extensive jurisdiction. The
site of the Cathedral was the city La Imperial. It possessed many
other provinces and cities belonging to it. I shall therefore write
a description of them and of their status at that time, with the greatest
conciseness and clarity, noting their most important features. It is

— ee.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 739

true that there are different ways of reaching them, both by the coast
and by the King’s Highway; I shall state accurately both what I
have learned from officers and soldiers of experience in that King-
dom, who have marched through it and have examined it many times,
and what light I myself have gained on it all, for I have spent the
best part of my life down there.

1954, From the city of La Concepcion to Biobio, where the fort
of San Pedro is situated, it is 2 leagues. From there it is 15 to
Lavapié. In between there is an inlet, at the Province of Arauco on
the coast 9 leagues from the fort of San Pedro; that was the limit
of the territory of the city of La Concepcion. Arauco is at 37°30’;
there used to be a fort there, which was the base for the pacification
of that country. From Arauco it is 5 leagues to the Millarapué
Valley, occupied by Indians on the warpath even in peaceful times.
The territory of Lavapié is in this neighborhood, on the same lati-
tude. The sea runs up the river on the rising tide, so that boats can
enter; they get quantities of fish and also of salt, which they make
by damming the sea water coming in with the tide, and caking it
under the hot sun.

1955. From Lavapié Point to the Rio de Lebu, which is at 38° S.,
it is 6 leagues. Here Don Garcia de Mendoza established the city
of Cafete, which was later abandoned on account of the war. From
the Rio de Lebu it is 6 leagues to the island of Mocha, which is
5 leagues out to sea. This island has a population of peaceful Indians.
Now returning to Millarapué, it is 3 leagues from there to Quiapo;
from there, 2 to the fort of Lebu; then 2 to the tanning vat (lavadero)
of Paylataro; I more to the Old House (Casa Vieja) of Lincoya;
then 2 to the Pilmaiquen Valley, and 2 more to Tucapel, where the
old fort stood which was burned by the Araucanians in the year 1553,
and within sight of which they attacked Governor Valdivia and
defeated and killed him; the Spaniards fought with them on that
plain and the 14 who remained alive reached the ferry across the
Rio de Lebu, where they perished, as will be described when I treat
of the wars.

1956. From Tucapel one comes at once on the Purén swamp,
where there was another fort with 30 soldiers, married men and
bachelors; at that time when they saw the country in rebellion, they
retired to La Imperial with 7 more soldiers of renown (?) (de la
fama), the survivors of the 14 who had gone from the Purén fort
to the relief and aid of the Governor, and arrived after the Indians
had won and had killed the Governor. They fought with the savages
and escaped by good luck and courage from that critical situation.

740 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

From Purén fort to the city La Imperial it was 8 leagues; to the
right were the villages of Claroa and Tirta, and others along the
coast among high mountains; it is very rough country, exceedingly
rich in high-grade gold ore; Tirta is paved with this metal. It is
near the Rio Cautin, which passed La Imperial, 9 leagues away;
Tirta forms a triangle with La Imperial and Purén.

1957. Traveling from Arauco to the city of La Imperial, E. toward
the Cordillera, one follows the King’s Highway to the city of Angol.
This is 28 leagues from La Concepcion; it is 12 to San Bartolomé
de Chillan, and 16 from Chillan to Angol. It was founded by Don
Garcia de Mendoza in the year 1559 on the so-called Angol plains
by the bank of a river whose sweet and crystal-clear waters, after
dashing furiously down from the great Cordillera Nevada in which
it rises and originates, irrigate and fertilize its fields and meadows,
which were the most fertile and prolific to be found in the entire
Kingdom. On them they raised quantities of corn, wheat, barley,
chickpeas, lentils, porotos, and other cereals; their cattle increased
rapidly for the land was highly suitable; their vineyards produced
so plentifully and abundantly that this city provided all the upland
cities in the Kingdom with wine; their raisins and figs were famous,
and all other kinds of Spanish fruit.

1958. This river ran through the southern part of the city, and
a smaller one through the northern part, with many gristmills on it.
The city was at 38°30’, between the two Cordilleras, 8 leagues from
the Cordillera Nevada to its E., and 2 from the coast range to the W.
When Don Garcia founded it he named it Villanueva de Los Infantes ;
later, Gov. Villagra called it de Los Confines. Its territory extended
E. and W. from the Cordillera Nevada to the sea, 10 leagues, and
18 N. and S., 8 of them to the Rio de la Laja (Crag), from a very
high crag in it, 25 stades high, past which it dashes with furious
current. To cross the river above these rapids to the E. one has
usually to swim one’s horse, it is so large. The other 10 leagues
run S. along the La Imperial highway; on this stretch to one side
along the sea are the villages of the Purén swamp, as one comes on
the straight road from Arauco. All through this region there are
very tall cypresses, very fragrant ; they make fine sealing wax (lacre)
from them. There are numerous pine groves with tall pines producing
very large pine nuts (pifiones) ; they have them as far as the Rio
de la Plata in the Province of Paraguay, and other parts, of the
same size as these of Purén; each is as large as a good acorn. The
Purén Indians and those of the region make them their food and

t

ee

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 741

drink. It is 8 leagues from Purén to where the city of La Imperial
used to be.

1959. The whole King’s Highway from where the city of Angol
stood to La Imperial, was practically uninhabited. Toward the Cor-
dillera there were and are numerous villages, such as Vilque, La
Cabrera, Rangali, Rangalican, Voroa, Claroa, Mulchén, and many
others, and Los Puelches, the last in the Cordillera, on the edge
of the Tucuman plains and the Diaguitas Indians; in the other
direction, westward toward the sea, the Indians of the Purén swamp.
The King’s Highway from Angol to La Imperial is to the WSW.

CHAPTER IX

Continuing the Description of the Kingdom of Chile: the Manner
in Which the City of La Imperial Was Founded, and Other Matters.

1960. After Gov. Pedro de Valdivia had explored and subdued
those provinces, he founded the city of La Imperial in the year 1551
on the tip of a bluff formed by the Rio de Cautin and a small stream
emptying into it W. of the city; he built it on this site because it
seemed to him a strong position. It is 3 leagues inland from the
sea, at 38°40’ S., 4o leagues S. of La Concepcion, 22 from Villarica
and 36 from Valdivia. Its fields and meadows were productive,
growing quantities of wheat, corn, barley, lentils, porotos, and other
cereals and Spanish and native fruit; there were large ranches of
cattle, sheep, hogs, and llamas, and today there is plenty of stock
there for it has multiplied greatly, the land being fertile and with
wide pastures; so that the country was not only well populated but
very prolific and fruitful.

1961. Although grapes bore well, they did not ripen enough for
making good wine. The city of La Imperial was capital of the second
and richer Diocese. When it was abandoned and the country lost
through the Indian uprising of the year 1598, when they killed Gov.
Martin Garcia de Loyola, its place was taken by the city of La
Concepcion, where His Majesty directed that a Bishop should reside,
from the year 1617 (ex 1618) on. The territory and district of
La Imperial was thickly settled and abounded in everything necessary
for human life.

1962. The whole neighborhood had a dense Indian population,
for in the district there were over 200,000 Indians liable to pay
tribute; and among the large settlements and villages of converted
Indians in the district within 6 leagues of the city, there were 3
villages of 600 Indians each, settled under their forts. One was

742 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

called Rangali; between this and the city was the lovely Rangalican
Valley, in which were all the farms, cattle ranches, and fields of
corn, wheat, and other cereals and vegetables belonging to the Span-
iards. The second village was a settlement beside the fort of Voroa,
and the third, beside that of Maquegua. Each of these forts was
6 leagues from La Imperial, forming a triangle, and they were a
league and a half apart; they arranged them this way in a triangle
so as to be able to defend them from the enemy if he came in numbers
against one of them. In each of these forts there were eight Spanish
harquebussiers, which was a sufficient defense and safeguard, for
the peaceable and friendly Indians who were favored and protected
by the Spaniards valiantly defended their party. ‘

1968. On receiving word through the spies whom our men main-
tained among the savages that there was a force gathering to attack
one of the forts but it was not definitely known which one they would
attack, at this news 35 harquebussiers and cavalrymen used to leave
La Imperial and take up a position in between these forts, so as to
relieve whichever was attacked, as quickly as possible. Near each
fort there was a large shelter (galp6n) 30 or 4o paces long, thatched
with straw and quite like a long dwelling; this was set on fire by
our men when the enemy attacked, so that the Spaniards might know
where the enemy force was, and those who were stationed on guard
would rush up immediately for their prompt relief.

1964. It happened in the year 1593, when Don Garcia de Mendoza,
Marqués de Canete, was Viceroy of Peru, and Don Alfonso de
Sotomayor was Governor of Chile, the predecessor of Martin Garcia
de Loyola, that word was brought by the Indians to Col. Francisco
del Campo; Indian spies, although belonging to the enemy, on learn-
ing of any gathering to attack a fort, used to come secretly to warn
the Corregidor or head man, because they were well paid for it, being
given a horse or a suit of clothes; so they informed the Spaniards of
whatever the enemy was planning, which was of great importance
to them. Accordingly, one of these Indian spies came to the Cor-
regidor or head man of the city and said to him: “Sir, I bring you
news of importance; for it you must give me a reward or two.”
These were given without hesitation or delay, with great exactitude,
for with their avarice and the certainty of a reward, they were
prompt to bring word of everything, even if it meant selling their
parents’ lives.

1965. Finally Col. Pisucisee del Campo got word that a united
force was on its way against one of these forts—which one, was
not known with certainty. At the news this Colonel set out with

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 743

35 harquebussiers, putting them at the center of the triangle formed
by these forts, hidden in a small grove of some 30 filbert trees. He
stayed there with his force all that day and the following night,
waiting to see where the fire signal would break out. At dawn they
set fire to the Voroa galpon, and Col. Francisco del Campo reached
there at sunrise with his soldiers ; he found there over 1,000 Indians,
some mounted and some on foot. At the arrival of the Colonel and
his force, 500 Indians and 8 Spanish harquebussiers rushed out of
the fort and attacked the savages, and followed them in their flight
more than a league over flat country till they reached some bluffs
over a dry watercourse, where they threw themselves over the cliff,
not being able to resist; in this manner over 700 died, without our
losing more than 1 Spanish soldier.

CHAPTER X

Describing the Country and Jurisdiction of Villarica.

1966. Villarica was 22 leagues from the city of La Imperial,
SE.4E.; it was 25 leagues from the sea and 3 from the Cordillera
Nevada, in 39° S., near a lake which is 4 leagues long E. and W.,
and 24 wide, named Mallalauqueén; the city was built W. of it; near
the outlet of this lake is the source of the Rio Toltén. That city
was founded and colonized by Gov. Pedro de Valdivia in the year
1551, a few days after La Imperial. The lake was and is a great
resort ; the residents of the city used to go there and enjoy themselves
boating ; it served as a fort and wall for the city on one side; on
the other, it was surrounded by very high ridges and by forests of
lofty cypresses, and by cliffs with huge pine trees with pine nuts.

1967. Among these pine groves they raised quantities of hogs,
which they fattened with the pine nuts; their ham and bacon was
the best in all the Kingdom, in fact, in the world. High above it
on the summit of the Cordillera, the city had a volcano which was
generally spouting fire; on its slopes near the lake two springs gush
forth, the size of oxen, and flow into it. The location of the city
was excellent and agreeable, and the region is fertile, although it
is all very rough country. There were Franciscan and Mercedarian
convents in Villarica.

1968. Two leagues from the city, as one came from La Imperial,
stood the fort of valiant Capt. Juan Beltran, a mulatto, son of a
Negro and an Indian woman, who is worthy of eternal memory for
his great deeds among those savages. He was very deferential toward
the Spaniards, and very obedient and loyal to them; with the Indians

744 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

he was fearless; they stood in awe of him and respected him, to
such a degree that the mere mention of his name was often enough
to intimidate the Indians and put their squadrons to flight; the
Spaniards on several occasions, seeing themselves hard put to it,
gave out that Capt. Juan Beltran was coming with them, and thus
gained the victory; such authority did he have with them, and such
respect and fear did they show him.

1969. Accordingly for his sterling character and his bravery, Gov.
Martin Garcia de Loyola, in His Majesty’s name, presented him with
500 Indians and gave him the title of Infantry Captain. He was
a valiant governor and captain for them; with his 500 Indians he
built his fort 2 leagues from Villarica; they were very obedient to
him. He made himself respected and feared in all the neighboring
provinces ; he made long malocas or raids into them, bringing back
great prizes. So long as he lived, Villarica was well defended and
could rely on his aid and protection, until they finally killed him.
His loss was the end of the Spaniards, and they perished at the hands
of the Indians. Merely to write his victories and heroic deeds against
the savages in His Majesty’s service and in defense of the Spaniards,
would require an entire volume.

CHAPTER XI

Continuing the Description of the Country, and of the City of
Valdivia.

1970. From Villarica to the city of Valdivia was 16 leagues. This
was founded and colonized by Gov. Pedro de Valdivia at the end of
the year 1551; he finished colonizing it in 1562. It had a marvelous
site on a flat-topped hill between two rivers, one a large one known
as the Rio de Valdivia; it was at 40° S., and 2 leagues inland from
the sea. This large river has a medium-sized island at its mouth,
forming two channels emptying into the sea; the northern one is the
deeper, and ships sailed up it as far as the city, for it was deep,
clear, safe, and free from currents; they even anchored by the
shore, between the Franciscan and Dominican convents, with bow
or side next the bank; they put out short planks and the men and
women of the city would visit the ships, which they much enjoyed
doing.

1971. The whole Cantaranas ward lay on the bank of this great
river. On the other side of the city ran a small stream called the
Rio Carmenga, which was a favorite resort for pleasant excursions
for the citizens; they had gristmills there and gardens and orchards

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 745

of fruit trees; all Spanish varieties yielded abundantly and very
early ; wheat, corn, and other cereals gave excellent returns; every
fanega of wheat produced 30, 40, or more, according to the cultivation.

This city was the best, the richest, and the busiest trading center
in the whole Kingdom of Chile, for besides the abundance of all
sorts of products of the soil, it was very rich in high-grade gold ore;
wherever it occurred, and merely from the known mines, the Indians
used to extract 25 or 30 pesos’ worth of gold every day. This and
its excellent harbor normally brought in many ships with merchandise,
and there was never any shortage. The location of the city, though
level, stodd over 3 stades high above the river’s backwater, so that
it was safe from any flood. It was well provided with delicious fish,
for the Indians came in every day with boats full of them, especially
on Fridays and in Lent, when 40 or 50 boats would come in. Round
about the harbor, near where the city was built, there are large woods
and forests of valuable tough timber for ship building, which might
have been carried out at low cost, the timber being at the water’s edge.

1972. The city and its environment seemed a bit of Paradise,
having bright skies, good soil, and healthful breezes. The tide runs
up the river as far as a plain surrounded by mountain ridges and
known as Guadalauquén. The Sierra Nevada is 17 leagues distant
from the site where the city was built. Its longest day, which was
Christmas Eve and the day preceding, was of 14 hours 26 minutes;
and the shortest, which was St. John’s Eve, 10 hours. Fifteen leagues
from where the city of Valdivia was built, there were some hot baths,
with springs gushing out, some 2 leagues from the Cordillera Nevada.
These were and are very health-giving, curing the bathers of all
sorts of illnesses; people suffering from contractions of a tendon,
foot, arm, or leg or other part of the body, had only to bathe in
them and the member straightened out and healed. In the district
of the city there were very good cattle, sheep, and hog ranches, for
the country was suitable and had excellent pasturage.

CHAPTER XII

Describing the District of the City of Osorno.

1973. From the city of Valdivia to that of Osorno was a very
rough journey of 16 leagues with many ridges and steep slopes, as
far as the Tenguelén Valley, which was covered with Indian settle-
ments and Spanish ranches, with large herds of cattle and fields of
wheat, corn, and other cereals. From this valley to the city of Osorno

740 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

it is a level road but wooded and forest country, and with one large
river to cross.

1974. Osorno was founded by Don Garcia de Mendoza in the year
1559 after he had pacified the whole country and put down all the
rebels. It is in the same latitude as the town of Madrid, 40°26’,
but S., while Madrid is N., of the Equator. He colonized it with
many nobles and distinguished gentlemen, who had helped him subdue
the country. In its territory very large amounts of high-grade gold
were extracted, for it is all paved with gold ore; it had a large native
population, which, with its fertility and the rapid increase of its
cattle, made it very wealthy. It had a parish church, Dominican and
Franciscan convents, and one of Santa Clara nuns. It was at a
distance from the sea, near the Cordillera.

1975. Its neighborhood consisted of fine fertile land, which pro-
duced abundance of everything—all kinds of Spanish fruit and many
native varieties, filbert trees, very large pine groves (pinales), with
huge cones and nuts (pifiones) common in those parts and like big
acorns, and other trees with valuable and highly prized timber. It
was the last city on the mainland in the Kingdom of Chile this side
of the Straits of Magellan. From Osorno to the city of Castro,
which is built on the islands of the Chiloé Archipelago to the WSW.,
it is 48 leagues, 30 by land and 18 by water. That was the district
held by the Diocese of La Imperial before the death of Gov. Martin
Garcia de Loyola, which was the origin and cause of the Indian
uprising in that Kingdom and the complete ruin and destruction of
the cities of that Kingdom.

The wealthy city of Osorno kept growing in numbers and importance
on account of the richness and fertility of its territory. There were
woolen cloth mills in the city and other fine products were turned
out. Two leagues out of the city there was a beautiful lake, called
Laguna de Gaeta, full of delicious fish with which the city was
admirably supplied; on it was a great variety of waterfowl—ducks,
geese, herons, egrets, widgeons, and many others. The port utilized
by the city was that of Las Canoas, called also that of Osorno. There
was abundance of wild hogs, fallow deer, deer, guanacos, vicufias,
tarugas, ostriches, and many others of various sorts.

CHAPTER XIII

Of the District of the Kingdom of Chile, Its Harbors, and the
Distances in Leagues along the Coast.

1976. The Kingdom of Chile stretches along the Pacific Coast,
starting at the end of the Kingdom of Peru with the Copiapo Valley,

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 747

at 27° S.; its fertility has been described in due course. From
Copiapo to the Straits of Magellan, at 52°30’ S., it is 480 leagues,
more than 300 of them occupied by tribes who are white, warlike,
courageous, and persistent, as our Spaniards have learned by ex-
perience during this period of 88 years since Gov. Pedro de Valdivia
began the exploration by penetrating into the country in the year
1540, up to the present year of 1628; in various battles, skirmishes,
and defeats more than 15,000 Spaniards and over 60,000 friendly
Indians have lost their lives, as I shall tell fully in greater and more
explicit detail in the book I am writing on the Chilean wars, if God
grant that I finish it.

1977. It was subdued and colonized from the Copiapé Valley just
mentioned, up to the city of Osorno at 40°26’ S., and the Chiloé
Archipelago with the city of Castro at 43° S., and the rest down to
the Straits, which is the Costa de los Césares ; there are a few savage
tribes there with barbarous customs; the country inland is occupied
by the tribe of the Patagones, giants who dress in deerskins, and
by other tribes. These have not yet been subdued at all, both because
of the wildness of the sierras and Cordillera Nevada and of the little
profit to be gained, and also because throughout that country there
are many deserts, it is so high and cold.

1978. The center of this warlike country is coming to be the
Province of Guadalauqueén, where the city of Valdivia was established
and colonized, on the banks of its famous river, 2 leagues inland
from the sea, at 40°, which is the same as that of the imperial city
of Toledo, which is however to the N. of the Equator, and Valdivia
to the S. From this city of Valdivia we can calculate the progress of
the sun and its delay in arriving from the meridian of Seville to that
of Valdivia, 5 hours and 20 minutes; accordingly when it is 12 noon
in Seville, at the meridian of Valdivia it will be 6:30 a.m. Valdivia
is distant from Seville to the SW. in a direct air line 1,970 leagues.

1979. The seasons in that Kingdom are the reverse of those in
Spain, for when it is summer in Spain it is winter in Chile, and
vice versa. The reason is that that Kingdom lies outside the other
Tropic, that of Capricorn, toward the South Pole, while Spain lies
outside the Tropic of Cancer toward the North Pole, and the sun
moves from the Torrid Zone or the Equator to the Tropics without
going beyond them, on its ordinary course. That Kingdom is very
wet and humid, especially from the district of La Concepcion at 37°
to all the country and provinces which are at war; their crops all
grow in the rainy season ; most of the district of the city and Diocese
of Santiago is under irrigation from the rivers flowing down from

748 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

the Cordillera Nevada from E. to W. to the sea; with their water
they irrigate their crops, which yield with prolific abundance.

CHAPTER XIV

Continuing the Description of the Chilean Coast and Its Harbors.

1980. From Copiapé to Huasco the coast runs S.4SE.; Huasco
is at 29° S. Then the coast runs S. as far as Coquimbo, which is
in full 30° S. From Coquimbo to Valparaiso, the port of Santiago,
which is at 33° S., it is 70 leagues in the same southerly direction ;
in that same region and parallel, 75 leagues W. out at sea are the
Juan Fernandez Islands, which are well supplied with goats, wood,
and water, excellent harbors, land fertile for crops, with fine tough
timber for ship building. In the days of the Marqués de Cafiete they
built some ships on these islands, and some of the stock brought
over as food for the workmen was left there, in particular some
goats, and they have so multiplied that the islands are full of these
animals. They serve to provision our Dutch enemies after they pass
the Straits; they stop at these islands to careen and repair their
ships after the long voyage they have made; they sow and harvest
crops and make great slaughter of the goats to jerk their meat, and
take in wood and water; and since they are so far out to sea, they
are neither seen nor perceived. Then they start out as well equipped
as if they had not traveled at all, and on their way they usually
harry and raid the Peruvian coast ; I have described this and the way
to remedy it in a booklet I presented in the year 1625 at the meetings
held by His Majesty’s command at my instance before the Grand
Prior of St. John and Conde de la Puebla, to the effect that it was
not desirable that the naval force should leave which was being sent
through the Straits, and showing how to remedy and prevent the
evils which were apprehended.

1981. Beyond the port of Valparaiso, 70 leagues to the S., is the
port of Talcahuano for La Concepcion, at 37° S.; there are some of
less importance in between. Beyond Talcahuano is the island of
Santa Maria, which is occupied by peaceable Indians and lies in front
of the bay of the Provinces and State of Arauco, at 37°30’ S. Then
comes Lavapié Point, from which to the Rio de Lebu, running S.
along the coast, it is 6 leagues. At 38° and in the same region and
parallel, 5 leagues out to sea, is the island of Mocha, occupied by
peaceable Indians. From Lebu the coast runs SW. 8 leagues to
another point which is at 38°30’; this is the region where the city
of Angol was built, known also as Los Confines. Four leagues from

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vV AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 749

this point or cape is the Rio de Cautin at 38°40’, following the coast
to the S.; and in the same direction at 39° is the Rio de Toltén,
which rises in the lake by which Villarica was built; it has a good
harbor for ships.

1982. Eight leagues farther along the coast in the same southerly
direction, at 39°30’, is the Rio de Queule and the port. From there
the coast runs S. to the Rio Grande de Valdivia, 9 leagues, all of it
ridges and Cordillera right down to the sea. The mouth of the Rio
de Valdivia is at scant 40°, with a grand harbor. The river empties
into the sea heading somewhat N. and with two arms or mouths
formed by a medium-sized island across the entrance. It is highly
essential and important that His Majesty order a city to be established
there, and a fort with a Spanish garrison; that would not only
ensure the Kingdom of Chile against enemies on sea and land, forming
a bulwark against both, but also for the whole Kingdom and coast
of Peru, for it is to windward of them all, and the first point where
our enemies, exhausted by the voyage, can stop and rest, with an
excellent harbor and timber, as I have demonstrated not only in
writing but also with maps.

1983. From Valdivia the coast runs S. 7 leagues to the Punta de
la Galera, and from there in the same direction to the Rio Bueno,
where 5 other rivers debouch, it is again 7 leagues. From Rio Bueno
it is 10 leagues along the same course to the Punta de Billiva;
Billiva is at 41°. To San Marcelo it is 7 leagues; all this coast is
high mountain ranges. In this neighborhood the Chiloé Archipelago
begins. The coast runs SE. from San Marcelo; at 8 leagues is the
port of Chanqui, at 43°, opposite these Chiloé Islands; nearby are
the forts of Calbuco and Carelmapu, with two companies of Span-
iards, one of cavalry and the other of infantry, to keep the Indians
of the island and the neighborhood peaceful, and to restrain the fury
of the warlike savages.

1984, This Cape and port of Chanqui is one of those at the mouth
of the Gulf of Los Coronados. Four leagues to the S. is Cape
Ballena, so that these two capes form that gulf. Beside it is the
Province of Ancud or Chiloé. Next comes Cape San Felix, 9 leagues
S. of Cape Ballena. At this Cape San Felix there is great wealth of
gold, for the whole country is paved with this metal, of high grade,
over 23 carats. Here the Costa de Los Césares starts and runs down
to the Straits. From Cape San Felix to that of San Cebrian it is
14 leagues S.; from there to that of Santa Clara, 4, and 10 to Cape
Isla, running S. along a coast which is all Cordillera Nevada close

750 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

to the sea. From Cape Isla to the island of Nuestra Sefiora, which
is near the mainland, the coast runs SSW.

1985. From the island of Nuestra Senhora to Cape Gallego, which
is at 46°, it is 25 leagues, and 12 more along a coast running S., to
San Estéban. From there it is 6 to San Andrés, and 8 more to
Ochavario, which is at 47°, along the same course. From there it is
10 leagues to the Nuestra Senora Valley, and then 18 to the harbors
and coves of Hernando Gallego, which is at 49°. From there it is
15 to the Bay of San Guillén; then 6 to Punta Delgada, which is at
50°. Then follow immediately the ports of Los Reyes and Los
Inocentes ; farther on, the Cape of San Augustin, and ‘close beyond,
that of Santa Catalina, at 51°40’. Nearby is the port of San Amaro,
and farther on, the Bay of San Vitoriano, at 52°30’. This lies among
lofty islands, some of them snow-capped; at the southern point of
the bay there are three small islands forming a triangle, which are
a certain indication of the mouth of the Straits; the day is 17 hours
long there. At the mouth of the Straits there are four islands to
the N., which they call the Evangelistas. After passing the mouth
of the Straits there are 12 small islands hugging the shore, between
53° and 54°, which they call the 12 Apostoles. If one enters the
Straits of Magellan, there is more than 70 leagues of the strait; the
point farthest S. is at 54°; up to that point it is narrowest, coming
from the Pacific ; it will be 1 or 2 leagues wide; then it widens.

CHAPTER XV

How Gov. Pedro de Valdivia Explored and Subdued the Provinces
of Chile, and How It Was Governed.

1986. Now that I have described the Kingdom of Chile and the
other subjects of the preceding chapters, it will be well for greater
clarity and precision, to tell how it was subdued. I would therefore
say that Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro conferred the governorship
and the exploration of the Kingdom of Chile upon Pedro de Valdivia,
in return for his valuable aid in his campaigns and because he was
one of the best and most experienced soldiers who had come over
to those realms.

1987. In the year 1540 he got together 150 Spanish soldiers in
the Province of the Charcas, where he was a resident encomendero ;
and leaving his home and the Indians he possessed in the Charcas,
he left there and crossed the Provinces of Los Lipes and Atacama,
which is the last in Peru. After he had passed its deserts he reached
the Copiapo Valley; in the native Indian language that means tur-

‘

ca OSs ea age an eS gene ES ie

ile cca il! at, Pl ee

WHOLE VOL] THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 751

quoise mine, from their abundance there. The valley was fertile
and prolific in everything necessary for human life; but without
doing a thing there or colonizing it, although it is a bit of Paradise
and at that time contained many Indians, he went ahead to the valleys
of Titon, and Huasco, which is 35 leagues S. and has similar fertility
and climate, with plenty of partridges and other game birds and
animals. He deliberately left it behind for his project of conquest
and colonization, great soldier and captain that he was, and well
aware of the incredible hardships to be undergone in the subjugation
of new territories, apt to intimidate some men and make them turn
back from their enterprise.

Gov. Pedro de Valdivia, wishing to keep his men from cherishing
any hope of opportunity of return, was unwilling to leave open that
gate and passageway by which they might go back, but resolved that
they should all act like good and courageous soldiers, realizing that
they were surrounded by enemies on every side.

1988. After crossing these valleys, he found territories thickly
settled by those heathen, and kept on subduing them until he reached
the Rio de Mapochd. There in a level and attractive valley along
the banks of that river, he came upon a region which was well popu-
lated and suitable through its fertile meadows, and founded the city
of Santiago on January 24, 1541; today that is the court city of that
Kingdom and the seat of the Circuit Court. At the same time with
his founding of the city he built a fort for the safeguard and pro-
tection of his men, for he knew the warlike spirit and the courage
of the savages.

He kept subduing them with energy and courage; and when he
had them subjected, they plotted to murder him and all his men.
When the Governor came to know the design of the savages, he took
the caciques and put them in the fort, leaving them under guard of
his lieutenant, Capt. Alonso de Monroy, while he himself set out
with his few Spaniards in a cross-country campaign for their pro-
tection. While they were fighting, Doma Inés Suarez, afraid that
these caciques imprisoned for their plot, might rebel, killed them
with an ax for splitting wood. The Spaniards rushed out on the
plain and fought valiantly till they won, having killed many of the
savages.

1989. In view of the great trials and deprivations they were endur-
ing while Gov. Pedro de Valdivia was in Peru and his Militia Captain
Francisco de Villagra acting as his lieutenant, some of the Spaniards
discussed returning to Peru, and for this purpose they tried to kill
Francisco de Villagra, under the pretext that Pedro de Valdivia had

752 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

made himself Governor on his own motion without authority.
Villagra, on learning of their plot and purposes, seized Pedro Sanchez
de la Hoz, who was the leader and had come down almost as a
colleague of Pedro de Valdivia; for when Marqués Don Francisco
Pizarro committed to Valdivia the exploration of Chile, Pedro
Sanchez de la Hoz had objected, because he held a royal warrant
as Governor of all the territory that should be colonized after leaving
the jurisdiction of the Marqués; but the Marqués had given that
commission to Valdivia, who had given him an encomienda in the
city of Santiago. Indulging this presumption in Valdivia’s absence,
he planned to kill Villagra and take on the governorship. So when
the matter was discovered, he was beheaded by order of the Militia
Captain, and Romero, a soldier who was seconding this plot, was
hanged, and others were punished in accordance with their guilt.
When Gov. Pedro de Valdivia returned, he concurred in all this and
approved it.

CHAPTER XVI

Continuing the Preceding Theme, and How Pedro de Valdivia
Comported Himself in the Exploration and Pacification of the
Country.

1990. After Gov. Pedro de Valdivia had established the city of
Santiago and by his energy and valor had brought the Indians of
that region to respect and obey him, having had some encounters
with them and vanquished them, he was impressed with the pros-
perity and wealth of the country and its large Indian communities,
and realized that it would be well to make another settlement at
the entrance to the Kingdom, to provide safe passage for travelers
to and from the Kingdoms of Peru. With this in mind he founded
a city in the Coquimbo Valley in the year 1544 and gave it the name
of La Serena, for that was the name of his native town in
Estremadura.

1991. He apportioned the Indians of the neighborhood among the
colonists, and at that time he was greatly feared and respected by
the Indians and enjoyed great authority among them. Hereupon
Capt. Alonso de Monroy arrived with a reinforcement of 60-odd
soldiers, who had been given him by Gov. Vaca de Castro in Peru.
This was a great help to Pedro de Valdivia; they gave him encourage-
ment and he subdued the Provinces of the Rio de Maule, the Kingdom
of Gueler, Itata, Quilacura, and others, to the limit of the conquests
of Inca Yupangui, tenth king of Cuzco.

-

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—Vv AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 753

1992. From the Rio de Maule it is 23 leagues to the Rio de Itata,
at 36°; the coast runs SSW. To the port of La Herradura it is
3 leagues in the same direction. From La Herradura to the Bay of
Penco it is 4. There by the water’s edge in the little Penco Valley
he founded the city of La Concepcion in the year 1545. It is suitable
country, prolific in crops, rich in gold and densely populated, although
most of the natives have disappeared in consequence of the continual
warfare. For the security of the residents of the new settlement
he provided it with a fort, since the natives were very warlike. This
was the way in which good Gov. Pedro de Valdivia sustained these
provinces which he had conquered and of which he had apportioned
out the natives to the residents of these three cities, from the year
1541, when he made his entry into the Kingdom, up to 1550; he
made some raids or malocas inland, and in this period he subdued
the intractable tribes of Arauco, Tucapel, Millarapué, Lebu, Payla-
taro, Pilmaiquén, Lincoya, Quiapo, and many other valiant and war-
like provinces ; subjected by the courage of the Spaniards, they were
already obedient to them and becoming more civilized.

CHAPTER XVII

How Gov. Pedro de Valdivia Explored and Subdued Many Other
Provinces and Established Some Cities in Them.

1993. It was now I0 years since Gov. Pedro de Valdivia had
entered that warlike Kingdom, during all which time they had under-
gone and met with courage great trials and deprivations, in rags and
famished, but with weapons in their hands, subduing those indom-
itable tribes and having constant skirmishes with them until they
brought them under control. It now appeared to him that their
failure to subdue all the country in spite of his courage and the
efforts of his men, was damaging their reputation; so early in the
year 1551 he set out with the men he had available, leaving the
cities fortified, and started exploring over the Angol plains, having
some brushes with the Indians, who had never been subjected and
so ill brooked the sight of strangers in their country, who would
like to reduce them to slavery. He defeated them in all the skirmishes,
and arrived at the Rio de Cautin, on whose banks and round about
there were large settlements; he subdued those tribes and reduced
them to submission; and since the country seemed suitable to him,
he founded and colonized La Imperial in the year 1551 and appor-
tioned among the settlers the land and over 200,000 Indians, so that
they might defend it with greater affection; and he built them the

49

794 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

three forts of Angalican, Voroa, and Maquegua, as has been told
in its proper place.

1994, At this time Captain Villagra arrived from Peru with rein-
forcements of 180 soldiers ; he found the Governor in the Mariquina
Valley. From there he went on exploring and subduing the provinces
in his path up to that of Guadalauquén; and on the banks of that
famous river he founded in that same year 1551 the city of Valdivia,
giving it his own name. Its territory was fertile, with broad meadows,
well settled by numerous Indian tribes, and rich in high-grade gold.
He apportioned the land and the Indians among the colonists, and
since Mars ruled there, he built them a fort as a place of refuge.
This city grew mightily, but through the negligence of the Militia
Captain Gomez Romero, the Corregidor, it was burned and _ its
residents killed on Wednesday, November 24, 1599, in the Indian
uprising whose leaders were Anganamon and Pelentaro.

1995. From the city of Valdivia Capt. Jeronimo de Alderete set
out exploring eastward along the Sierra Nevada near the Lake of
Toltén ; and since it was rich and suitable country, he founded Villa-
rica; he apportioned the land and the Indians among the residents,
and for their defense he erected a fort and blockhouse. Having
finished this, he went back and inspected the new city of Valdivia,
and went from there to La Imperial; after his inspection there, he
crossed Purén and the Provinces of Tucapel; and since he realized
the haughty spirit of the Indians and how ill they brooked slavery,
he ordered three forts erected within a district of 8 leagues, so that
each could aid the other in case of need, and with these fortresses
the indomitable savages might be better controlled.

But if he, experienced officer that he was, realizing the haughty
spirit of the Indians and their hostility to slavery, had not divided
his forces by establishing so many cities at such great distances, and
had not become negligent and blinded by his ambition for gold and
riches, he would not have met the fate to be told in the following
chapters, nor would the rebels have inflicted it on him.

CHAPTER XVIII

How Gov. Pedro de Valdivia Sent Alderete to Spain and Ulloa
out to Sea Exploring, and Occupied Himself with the Mines; the
Start of the Rebellion, and His Ruin.

1996. Early in the year 1552 Gov. Pedro de Valdivia sent Capt.
Jeronimo de Alderete to Spain to render account to His Majesty of
the large and wealthy provinces which he had explored and subdued,

aas~

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 755

and that he had established in them the 6 cities mentioned, and
requesting that for these great services and those he hoped to render
later, His Majesty should confirm him in his post as Governor, and
should confer other signal favors upon him.

1997. He sent Capt. Francisco de Ulloa with two ships to explore
the ports and provinces to be found down to the Straits, thinking
with lofty ambition that he might gain another empire greater than
that of Peru, since he had already explored and subdued much of it,
and colonized six cities in its provinces. With this in mind he set
out at La Concepcion to indulge his insatiable greed—the origin of
his downfall—by having search made for gold mines; those of Angol
were discovered, whose richness was such that in the year 1552 he
founded there the city called Los Confines; to ensure its safety and
that of the mines he built a fort and garrisoned it with Spaniards—
more interested in discovering and exploiting gold mines than in
rendering secure the wide rich provinces which he had subdued,
although he knew the haughty spirit of the Indians and how ill they
brooked the yoke of slavery to the Spaniards.

1998. He discovered other very rich mines 4 leagues from La
Concepcién at Quilacoya, and put 20,000 Indians to work taking
out ore under Spanish miners and superintendents, for whose security
he had a fort built with moat and palisade. From this and the other
mines they extracted large amounts of gold for him. Under this
excessive labor in the mines, the Indians, noting the Spaniards’
careless way of living and their self-confidence though their forces
were divided, resolved on a universal uprising to massacre all the
Spaniards; and so they started the war with guile, some continuing
to work and divert the Spaniards, while others made war openly.

1999. At this time they invested the fort of Tucapel, which was
under the charge of Capt. Martin de Erizar. He defended himself
bravely against the savages with the few men he had, and put the
bulk of the Araucanians to flight, though they kept molesting and
harassing him; he begged for reinforcements several times, seeing
himself hard pressed by the haughty and overbearing Araucanians.
Seeing that no help came, he wisely saved himself by withdrawing
with his men to the Purén fort and thus achieved safety. Meanwhile
Capt. Diego de Maldonado with six soldiers brought him aid, although
too late; they reached Tucapel but found it burnt down; the savages
attacked him with new energy; he made a hot fight, but they killed
three of his men; with the others, all of them badly wounded, he
succeeded, by good luck and ability, in getting back to Arauco, from
which point he sent the Governor word of the Tucapel incident

750 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

and the Indian uprising, and that he should take steps to defend the
country, for it was all up in arms and the Indians haughty and insolent.

CHAPTER XIX

How After the Burning of the Tucapel Fort, Caupolican Held a
Council of His Followers To Discuss What They Should Do; and
Other Episodes in the Life of Gov. Pedro de Valdivia.

2000. Caupolican was a shrewd and courageous captain among
the Indians; for his valor in war they all recognized him as their
commander. He had started their rebellion with the burning of the
Tucapel fort and the massacre of the Spaniards there and other
insolent deeds. He summoned a council, with the approval of their
most valiant captains—Tucapel, Rengo, Talgueno, Leucoton, Engol,
Lepomande, Gracolano, [Cocololo] Colocolo, Guaticol, and other
captains and old and experienced warriors; he discussed with them
what should be done to shake off their burdensome and oppressive
servitude to the foreigners, and to kill them all. Then they assembled
from the States of Arauco, Tucapel, Paylataro, Lincoya, Pilmayquén,
Quiapo, Lebu, Millarapué, and other provinces over 13,000 picked
Indian warriors, besides many others whom they sent out in every
direction to rouse and distract the Christians with their insolent deeds
and follow them up to catch them isolated and thus more safely
defeat and kill them. Meanwhile Caupolican with the bulk of the
army took position in ambush near Tucapel, where the trouble had
begun, for he felt certain the Governor would repair there with the
few men he had; he could then defeat him and terminate the war,
and they could rest peacefully in their own land.

2001. At this ttme Gov. Pedro de Valdivia was at La Concepcion.
When he got news of what had happened at Tucapel, he set out with
little foresight and greater haste than was wise, to remedy the wrong
and chastise the Indians. Some say that he had 53 cavalry soldiers
and a few servants, plus 14 more whom he ordered to join him from
the Purén fort ; others say he had 150 soldiers. On the way he visited
his mines at Quilacoya, crossed the large Rio de Biobio at Talca-
mavida, stopped at the Arauco fort and picked up some Spaniards
there, the total number coming to 150. But although Capt. Diego
Maldonado, who was badly wounded, repeatedly warned and begged
him, on the basis of what he had seen, not to press onward with such
a small troop and his forces divided, until he had got them all together
for a final victorious battle, for on that victory depended the King-
dom’s peace and tranquillity, the Governor would not listen to the

a

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 757

helpful advice of Captain Maldonado, for he had slight opinion of
the Indians—an additional cause of his downfall. Thinking that he
was losing time and reputation, and that his courage and the force
he was leading would suffice, he marched on heedlessly, leaving written
orders and word in every direction that they should follow him.
On reaching Coton, he sent Capt. Diego Doro ahead with ro soldiers
to hurry and reconnoiter the enemy’s location and camp. They were
killed by the savages, and cut in pieces which they hung up on trees ;
but the Governor went on, though he witnessed this sad spectacle
of his scouts’ fate; rashly he proceeded, Death calling him on, and
reached a plain within sight of the Tucapel blockhouse, whence the
enemy came forth to meet him.

CHAPTER XX

How the Araucanian Army Joined Battle on the Tucapel Plain
with Gov. Valdivia and His Men at Many Points, and Defeated and
Killed Them.

2002. When Governor Valdivia and his 150 Spaniards had reached
the plain within sight of the Tucapel blockhouse which the savages
had burned down—it was there that the rebellion had started, at the
end of October 1553—the 13,000 Indians rushed out upon him from
ambush ; this was the force that had been determined upon and raised
at the meeting earlier described. The able strategy of Caupolican
and an elderly captain who had remarked the Spaniards’ method of
fighting, divided them up into 13 squadrons of 1,000 Indians each,
under their brave and energetic chiefs or governors—Tucapel, Rengo,
Lepomande, Gracolano, Guaticol, Leucoton, Engol, and other brave
captains with their officers and subordinates to aid them in directing
them. The general in command of the whole army was valiant
Caupolican, who had with him other elderly captains belonging to
his council as aides to assist him.

2003. This was the way, and such the arrangement in which they
issued forth from the ambuscade: from different directions they fell
upon Gov. Pedro de Valdivia and his men, under orders to keep
fighting in relays and put their utmost efforts into it, with the idea
of exhausting the Christians. They all made a sudden attack upon
them, divided as has been described; one squadron of 1,000 Indians
would fight until it was cut up and dispersed by the courage of the
Spaniards; then these would retire to get a rest and immediately
another squadron would come in in its place; and as the Spaniards
with their courage and the plunging of their horses would break

758 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

them up, others would come on in their stead. Accordingly although
the Governor and his men had fought and kept fighting valiantly,
killing many Indians and putting them to rout, all the squadrons
which had attacked them still remained whole, for those who kept
dropping out of the battle went off and reinforced and renewed other
squadrons. Thus they fought from dawn to eve with slight loss or
fatigue on the part of the Indians, thanks to the new system and
method of fighting they had adopted, under which they kept renewing
their forces while the Spaniards lost theirs.

2004. But the Christians, who had been fighting all day, were
now exhausted, as well as their horses. And when Gov. Pedro de
Valdivia realized the Indians’ trick and their new system of fighting,
and that their squadrons remained entire because they kept renewing
them, he saw that he was lost; late as it was and tired and exhausted
as they were, after the loss of many of their force, he went and
retreated as far as Coton. On the retreat he notified them to pass
the word along that they should keep together and retreat to the
Lebu Pass; there they could make a stand, for two men alone could
defend it against the savages while the others rested. But this word
was not so secret but that Lautaro, a civilized (Ladino) Indian who
had been with the Governor since he was little, heard it; he shouted
out the Christians’ intention to the savages, and with a war whoop
he seized a lance and started fighting as sturdily as a mastiff against
the Spaniards. Caupolican and his old counselor, on learning of
the plan adopted by the Governor and his force, dispatched two
Indian squadrons at full speed to go and take the Lebu Pass, so
that the Christians should not get away from them, so eager were
they to finish by massacring them.

The Spaniards, who had fought all day without ceasing, arrived at
sundown, the 14 of them who had remained alive, badly wounded
and worn out, at the pass where they hoped to escape with their
lives. Thereupon the squadrons which had been sent ahead to guard
the pass, rushed out on them, and they were caught between them
and the main bulk of the savages’ army following them. The Chris-
tians, who now saw Death eye to eye, without spirit or strength to
fight, like good Christians recommended their souls to God and were
killed and hacked to pieces with great fury and barbarous cruelty
by the savages ; the only ones taken alive were Gov. Pedro de Valdivia
and a chaplain of his, whom they tied to two stakes while they made
ready for their fate and the celebration of their victory.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 759

CHAPTER X XI

Of the Death of Gov. Pedro de Valdivia and of What aes
to the 14 Spaniards Who Left Purén in His Suite.

2005. After the cruel and bloody battle fought on the plain in
sight of Tucapel, which had lasted from dawn till the darkening
of the night which ended at Lebu Pass, and in which all the Span-
iards died fighting, four friendly Indians alone escaped, three of
them Yanaconas and one a boy named Andrés, native of the Chile
Valley, who had been companion of the treacherous Felipe, whose
other name was Lautaro. While the exultant Araucanians gathered
and busied themselves in celebrating their victory, the four Christian
Indians, who had been in hiding for fear of the savages’ vengeance,
made all speed, sometimes on the roads and sometimes through the
woods, for they knew the country, and arrived at Fort Arauco, where
Capt. Diego Maldonado had remained nursing his wounds with 15
other Spaniards who had been hurt in the retreat from Tucapel ;
they informed him of the bloody battle and disaster in which the
Governor and his men had been killed.

2006. Capt. Diego Maldonado, on learning of the unfortunate
disaster caused by the Governor’s refusal to accept his helpful advice
and wait for reinforcements, took courage and rose from his bed
and immediately abandoned Fort Arauco with all his men, not having
forces able to defend it and withstand an enemy puffed up and
overbearing after his victory; he retreated to La Concepcion, com-
missioning the leading Indians of Arauco, who were at peace, to
bring all the stuff and the baggage which they had there and which
had been left by some of the soldiers who fell with Gov. Pedro de
Valdivia.

2007. While this was going on, the Araucanians celebrated their
victory with great festivities and drinking bouts. Again they gathered
and held a council to determine how to finish with the Spaniards
and kill them all, so as to remain quiet and peaceful in their own
country, without any interference, since they had come out victorious
and better off with the weapons and horses of the fallen Spaniards.
They debated all this in the presence of wretched Gov. Pedro de
Valdivia and his chaplain, tied to two posts. He humbly begged and
urged them to spare his life; he promised that without any new
impositions or warfare he would immediately leave the Kingdom
and take away the Spaniards living there and leave them free and

760 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

unmolested on their own land. He had got Lautaro and other im-
portant Indians who were somewhat favorable to his prayers, to
intercede for him, since they pitied his wretched state, when that
cruel old counselor of Caupolican’s who had arranged the squadrons
and given them that new method of fighting, suddenly got up, and
with a bludgeon or war club (macana) dashed the poor Governor’s
head to pieces, smashing and putting a stop to the agreements and
terms he was offering; he did the same to the cleric, upbraiding his
fellows for pitying or yielding to the prayers of a cruel enemy of
their nation and country, who had oppressed and subjugated them ;
and what could he accomplish if he saw himself free?

2008. These sudden cruel murders distressed many of the Arau-
canians and in particular General Caupolican, [Cococolo] Colocolo,
and others, who were sorry for the poor Governor and set upon
freeing him. This is the most trustworthy account of the end of
poor Goy. Pedro de Valdivia, a valiant gentleman and great soldier,
and very fortunate up to the thirteenth year after his entry into
that Kingdom which he had subdued and subjugated with such
courage and success ; but he was so negligent as to divide his forces
and underestimate his enemies.

2009. He entered that Kingdom in the year 1540, explored and
subdued large and wealthy provinces, and with his men underwent
unbearable hardships for a period of 13 years. He founded seven
cities—Santiago, La Serena, La Concepcion, La Imperial, Valdivia,
Villarica, and in the year 1552, Angol—and many forts for their
protection. He discovered and exploited very rich gold mines, and
derived huge wealth from them. He was successful in everything
till he divided his forces, and although he knew the great courage
of the Indians and their warlike spirit, he undervalued them, which
was his complete perdition, destruction, and ruin. So at the end of
the year 1553, the thirteenth of his governorship, he met this melan-
choly fate, having been a fortunate and successful soldier and captain
in the course of his life. He was a native of La Serena in Estre-
madura and the son of aristocratic parents; he was of great aid to
Marqués Don Francisco Pizarro in the conquest of Peru and for
his good service Pizarro conferred that expedition upon him.

2010. After the savages had spent all that night in festivities and
drunkeri orgies, having murdered the Governor and his chaplain in
the manner described, while they were discussing in their council
meeting how to end the war and do away with the Spaniards who

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 761

were still in the Kingdom, at dawn Capt. Juan Gomez de Almagro
came in sight of Tucapel Fort; he had left Purén Fort a day later
than the Governor had ordered him to come to his aid, with 14
valiant soldiers; they had not been able to make preparations and
get ready sooner, and so arrived to join him a day after the battle.
When the savages saw them, they fell upon them with great shouts
and war whoops. The good Captain and his men fought with them
valiantly ; when they saw themselves hard put to it in their defense,
they said: Since we are 14, 2 of us will be missing; they will call
us The Twelve of Fame. When 7 of them had fallen, the other 7
remaining, who were badly wounded, retreated with him to the Purén
blockhouse ; though they had escaped from the fury of the savages,
seeing that the country was lost and in rebellion, and that they were
not safe there, with great hardships and courage they made their
way to the city of La Imperial, sending word to the other cities
and especially to Capt. Francisco de Villagra, the Governor’s Lieu-
tenant General, who was residing in Valdivia, of the destruction and
death of the Governor and his men and of the general uprising
of the Indians. With which I conclude this book and first volume,
to treat in the second which I am at present writing, of the wars
of this Kingdom and of the valiant deeds of General Villagra and the
other governors, his successors, and of the famous deeds of the
Indians, if God grant that I may bring it to light, that all may be
for His glory and that of His Most Holy Mother. Amen.

2011. Statement of the salaries earned, with payment from His
Majesty, by the Governor and Captain General of this Kingdom
and the Provinces of Chile, and by the higher officers and ministers,
captains, officers, and soldiers and other persons and the naval force
who serve him in the army, each year in the statement of his royal
budget (situado), and what was paid wholly or on account (socorri6)
this past year of 1612, Alonso de Ribera being Governor and Captain
General, together with what was spent in purchases of supplies and
stores, and what was paid to friendly Indians and day laborers, back
debts, capital expenditures (gastos de capital), and for frigates,
boats and flatboats, agricultural land (sementeras), mill and royal
apartments, and other expenditures which were necessary for the
maintenance and service of the aforesaid army, in conformity with
His Majesty’s orders; and also what was received in the statement
for this year and budget, and what was left on hand (habia en ser).

762 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102
This follows in full:

ANNUAL SALARIES

2012. Higher-paid army officers and the salaries they receive.

Posts.

1 The Governor and Captain General gets as salary......... 66,176 Reals
Te AGCMalitias Captain: Generaliyoa. caer eee ae ee 13;2000 as
TA Supervisor (Veedor) Generalsacea. caste ee ee 16,500 “
1 A Treasurer of the Royal Exchequer (Caja) has on the

Bidet ih eG ok eres aik Ge baron alone crak tn oA Ate ne oe 7.280)
TuAnv Auditor General, sor seeiiotaaesna toe ick a toes ce eters 4,400 “
r-A- Sergeant, Major ob the Kined omy. c.ss eects ertere ries eleione 6,600 “
1 A Chief (Cabo) and Governor of the Arauco regiment

(LELCIO); \egaaesi ts aig cane eee ren ere 7700.
1 A Parveyor General for the forts ).c<clec cic stece se 6,600 “
t A Campaign Captain (Capitan'de Campana) :....5..°.:.... 23000" 1s
1 A \Chaplam Major: sche ivar. das tee catia ee atte telesales 4,400 “
4-4 Sergeant Major -Adjuitants, £8 wile savcic.t ers oyae thsketels stoic. ts 10,560 “
1. A: Field)Sureeon Major (de campo). «2.049 aeeiaccee 2750) bas
t A’ Surgeon Major's Adjutant, 222 0x cisco slsers sie eineeye 3 aa siete 2,000) 5s
t A Provost’ Getieral® ac.2:.0o cones ace ee athe Reece aeite 1,280, =
1A Wield’ Factor: (Buying NGent) eon. eee aa coe ets cee 3,000!)
1 A Higher Officer of the Supervision General............ 4,000 “
19 159,846 “

2013. Interpreters, couriers, superintendents, and other persons
receiving considerable salaries in the budget.

2 2: Interpreters. (Generalities cides cciscrecis cis acpecissicwise sagen 6,000 Reals
2:2 Field and Acmy (Couriers: '.5. ccie/co5 gets afeaiccsiern daursiarararee 3:200. =
1 A* Superiitendent of the hospital’: 2'2%.2./5.10 see sieeree ties 3 'A00n
t A’ Surgeon*for this hospital cso0.6 3. ood anlocrersects ee SrA OOF Mas
1, An Apothecary for this: hospitall(5 2% .<.2!s .ecsrdsisce fe table cee retary,
t A ‘Superintendent. for. the cattle ranch... <5 ssejot- si orn pau s 3 C02 Hines
1 Another Superintendent, for the mare ranch.............. g60°

7 7 Chaplains for the forts, with the one for the Province
of Chiloé, 19,250, at the rate of 750 ducats a year, in-
cluding the wine, wheat, and wax stipend.............. 19,250

35 £OS,558.. 5

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

2014. Captains, officers, and soldiers.

6 6 cavalry Captains, including the Chief (Cabo) and Gov-

ernor of Chiloé, at the rate of 700 ducats a year........ 46,200

6xGeiettenants at the rate of 240 ducats: «20. 9.... css 15,840

Zig2tsiniantnry, Captains at O00 ducatS. icc. -ssesic oo eee tee. 138,600
22 22 Ensigns, including the Chief at the Fort of Buena Es-

peranza, at the rate of 2\640 realse. 2.5 ecco cee cole 58,080

21 21 Sergeants for the 21 companies, at 144 ducats.......... 33,264
6 6 Buglers for the cavalry companies, at the rate of 105

S=neal a patacOneSs\ sine. suis cetera toe ee tienes Steen 5,040

1 A Bugler Major for the Captain General................. 2,376
21 21 Drummers for the 21 infantry companies, at the rate of

HOSE PAtACONESH a tepateitee soe Are ela oot tale ee eke he eee tate 17,040

21 21 Color Sergeants (Abanderados) at the same rate...... 17,640

51 5I noncommissioned officers (Capitanes Reformados) in
attendance on the Captain General, at the rate of 215
WALACONESTALVEAT oma hala ctee cette to sreieth Voters aire Cee 87,720

56 56 noncommissioned Ensigns and Lieutenants serving in the
army, at the rate of 160 8-real patacones a year, in-
cluding the extra pay (ventaja) of 40 ducats which His
Majesty gives them, 71,680 reals. o.,.isca si). 2 oscars src eh 71,680

23 23 noncommissioned Sergeants who likewise serve in this
army, at the rate of 1,115 reals, including the extra pay
om 25iducats.. which HM: gives them. afc. 2 Gy2 a0 Sitesi 25,645

189 189 cavalry soldiers serving in their (de hellos) companies,
at the rate of 1,060 reals, including the extra pay of 20
ducats whichis MeV cives*theimn «22 jernack eee eee 200,340

44 44 Squadron Chiefs (Cabos de Escuadra) in the infantry
companies, at the rate of 1,104 reals, including the extra
pay Of 24 ducats which H: M. gives’ them)... 2 .365%5.10:1) 48,576

132 132 musketeers in these companies at the same rate........ 145,728

998 998 simple enrollments as harquebussiers with (?) pikes
in the infantry companies, detached and in garrison, at the
rate of 105 8-real patacones a year, 838,320 reals...... 838,320

2015. Naval forces.

1 A Captain and Master of a frigate, who is Licensed Pilot. 6,600
1 Another of another, not licensed, half pay................ 3,300
1,655 1,963,147
8 A Master (Arrdez) for the boat for La Isla and Arauco.. 1,920

6 Spanish sailors serving on these 2 frigates, at the rate of
BAG PAtACONES s.2.ei6:0.6 wie e's\e\e/e, shel e's =) 0/0, 5101016) 0,9) 61/0) 0 vio eefailer ete! = 11,520

A Calker (Calafate) working on the hulls of these 2 fri-
Pateswthesboat and the: flathoatS race cdsess oe ee tat se e's 2,400

1,663 Enrollments The salaries total.... 1,978,987

Reals

“ce

Reals

“ce

704 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

2016. So that these one thousand six hundred and sixty-three posts
which were thus compensated in whole or in part (socorrieron) in
this year of 1612, came in annual salaries to the total of a million
nine hundred and sixty-eight thousand, nine hundred and eighty-seven
reals, which makes 247,378 8-real patacones and 3 reals. And the
lump (por mayor) sums that were drawn and paid, and the expendi-
ture in purchases and other things detailed at the start of this account
are as follows, noting that in the given number of cavalry and infantry
soldiers are included 30 who are occupied with various materials and
items in His Majesty’s service; 3 are ropemakers, for rope and
rigging; 1 blacksmith and armorer; 6 handle the horses for the
Purveyor General ; 7 are on the flatboats and 6 on the boats (barcos) ;
4 tend the horses and stallions on the ranches providing the Field
Buying Agent (Factor) with horses to carry and draw supplies;
5 at the fords of the Rio de Biobio and the passes to enemy territory
(? Pasos de Los Enemigos?) ; and 4 in the Budget Offices, who are
quite indispensable.

PAID FOR EXPENDITURES

2017. There were expended for these 1,663 posts both on account
(a buena cuenta) and with some advances (? arrears? alcances),
a sum of 1,591,495 reals.

What was paid out in purchases of supplies and stores amounted
to 191,044 reals, as follows:

Eighty-four thousand and thirty-eight reals for 5,2524 fanegas

of wheat, at 16 reals the fanega, which were bought for this

army, and which is discounted and charged (carga) when ac-

counts are closed’ with these people: {....002..).50. 222.2 ene ese 84,038
71,948 reals for 23,983 head of sheep bought for this army and

to manure His Majesty’s fields, at the price of 3 reals a head on

the average, for some cost more-and others less; this also is

discounted to the army, as meat received for rations, when ac-

counts ‘are’ closed as. .fais ie sia ore slots esta sitiatosiee erates aera cae 71,048
20,038 reals for quantities of rope, hemp, and other materials

and stores bought in Santiago and this city for the army service

and supplies for: the soldiensin.g.¢ a2. seein cate oie aeaciae ate ace 20,038
13,220 reals for 371 varas of Quito cloth at 325 reals the vara

(2), and for 100 varas (?) of grogram at 7} reals the vara (?),

and for 60 varas (?) of baize (bayeta) at 7 reals, bought for

the soldiers’ clothing, there being lack of other kinds.......... 13,220
1,800 reals for 100 planks from Chiloé bought for stores,

repairs, and other purposes necessary for His Majesty’s works,

At TS. TOA Sis csc ve once bre, we's ios oiawle salova ovetereyorore ole alerets Wictersisislelaversualels 1,800

Expenditures in purchase of supplies..............4.. 191,044 reals

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA

765

2018. The amount spent for expenses incurred on the agricultural
land, cattle ranches, teamsters’ hire (arria), woolen mill (obraje),
gristmills, army chaplaincies, fortification, royal apartments, and
other extraordinary expenses to the account of the royal budget,

amounting to 76,895 reals:

7,293 reals spent in outfitting the teamsters escorting the
wheat shipments to the forts, garrisons, etc.............2...00.
16,000 reals spent in wages in the woolen mill and in purchase
of supplies for the Indians working there, and other things.....
17,600 reals counted as extraordinary expenses, for thefts from
the royal stores, a wall having been broken through.............
12,800 reals paid to the Franciscan Convent for the chaplaincy
in the army, levied on the budget of La Concepcion (ynpuesta en
el de Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcién) ; this amount is imposed
on the increased production of cloth (? esta cantidad se echa en el
crezimiento de la rropa) ; the chief contributors are the Governor,
Supervisor General, and Treasurer, and those who receive the
Enipine tesa antes evsats 5 sie sic o'a:s,cote's ao. s-eWaud oie ak ecaie' tie aooliene arses sete eee
2,640 reals paid in wages on the cattle ranch and for matters
GOMMECLEH) WALIIES SCLVICE ore 4c 6rvin.c 18's sretele, crevete’e © ois, v8 oe a ciwiarereiatae
2,081 reals paid and spent in plowshares, axes, hoes, steel, iron,
and other materials necessary for His Majesty’s agricultural land
AtPE UCN AMEOS DE Tall Za er cte cree svat ciaiel ot etetenoithcl icine coriolis
3,154 reals paid and spent in repairs and remodeling His Maj-
esty’s gristmill which has been rebuilt in this city.............
4,823 reals paid and spent in repairing the royal apartments and
stores and in the fortification of the fort and artillery...........
10,504 reals spent for freight coming from Santiago, for rope,
budget expenses (descarga), field tent, wax for the chaplains,
paper, ink, pens, and parchment for the paymasters’ offices, the
factors at the forts, and other petty expenses and repairs on har-
quebus stands, and other things necessary for the army..........

75293
16,000

17,600

12,800

2,640

2,081
3,154

4,823

10,504

76,895 reals

760 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS

2019.

22,320 reals spent on the hulls, repairs, and outfitting of the 2
frigates, one barge (barco) and 7 flatboats (chatas) operating on
this coast and on the Rio de Biobio and at the fort ferries, for
sails, rigging, nails, tow, pitch, tallow, masts, anchors, yarn, and
other things necessary for their outfitting....................0-

14,419 reals paid and spent in the Royal Hospital of this city,
which is the army’s hospital, in medicines, cloth, and other things
utilized for the soldiers’ comfort, and in repairs on the building
and the church, and this amount and much more is levied as a
contribution (se desquenta) on the salaries of the captains,
officers, and soldiers when their accounts are settled. The amount
spent’ on’ the’ Army. Tospitalcicd caso siew cis sah ote Sout eertre

15,530 reals paid and spent in pay and subsidy to Indians,
the 2,351 caciques and friendly Indians serving in the war against
the rebels, in which, are; included:-400 reals~ .<4.4...-0-1he me oie

(Folio 174 verso) 400 reals which by His Majesty’s order are
given every year to Don Juan de Molina, Cacique and Toque
(Bell Ringer?) of La Imperial, who has been succeeded by a
son, and the 13,179 reals remaining were paid to various Indians
who worked on the fields, at the plowing and the harvest on His
Majesty’s ranch at the island of Santa Maria, and on the frigates,
the transport of the wheat and other items in his royal service.
The amount spent on friendly Indians and day laborers........

22,458 reals paid by order of the Viceroy of Peru and Governor
of this Kingdom and Father Luis de Valdivia to the officials
named for the inspection of the natives in the Diocese of La
Imperial, carried out by order of the previous Viceroy; in this
are included 8,000 reals which this Padre drew and took for his
own expenses. The amount expended by Padre Luis de Valdivia
in this) inspections a iactsms cutest eee oes ee nee

145,889 reals paid to various persons on back debts, contracted
during the first term of this Gov. Alonso de Ribera; thus 80,278
reals go to this Governor from his back salary, which remained
due him from the time when he served in that capacity in his
first term as governor; the 65,611 reals remaining were paid to
residents of this city and Santiago for supplies, native cloth,
cattle, and other things taken for the maintenance of the army,
and salaries due some of them. The amount paid for back
debts, ot the syearsy 25,9, anid! (Attest onis cc toeereterleven ie atotaiotacneminre

VOL, 102:

22,320

14,419 reals

1,896,173 reals

15,530

22,458

145,889

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES

VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 707
2020.

4,160 reals paid for a quantity of cloth which Gov. Alonso

Garcia Ramon took in the year 1606 under the head of redemp-

tion of captives and distributed it among the soldiers.......... 4,160
22,800 reals spent in powder, rope, and lead, standardized ac-

cording to the prices which prevail and which it costs His

Majesty to be expended for his royal account in war material

AMGEAGERENSE eo siesta ena sys Ae ee oe Rhea Aw Me eee Ie ee ae ene 22,800
4,155 reals paid to different persons for the making of 831

shirts made for the soldiers at the rate of 5 reals a shirt. Paid

fOrmmthesmalkanevomeshintsa se sects seth tine cess eae eye iste 4,155
102,080 reals paid to different persons for debts contracted

in the year 1611: Juan Xaraquemada for purchases of supplies,

salaries, and other things, including 70,329 reals paid to Diego de

Hinojosa and Fray Jer6nimo de Hinojosa by virtue of their

drafts and letters of attorney and the Viceroy’s provisions. Paid

Onebackudebtsi tor ‘the yeat LOMTs cs «hvac cet a tiee ot crecreiresh one ne 102,080

2,213,245 reals
8,000 reals paid to Capt. Juan Pérez de Uracandi as owner
and master of the ships San Francisco and San Agustin which
serve in His Majesty’s pay on this coast by virtue of the Viceroy’s
decree as coast aid and to transport the budget money and for
other purposes. Paid for coast aid by the Viceroy’s order...... 8,000 reals

2021. So that 2,221,245 reals were paid and spent in this year 1612
on salaries of the persons mentioned, purchases, back debts, and other
matters detailed above, on account of this royal budget; deducting
from the 2,406,277 reals the 2,062,786 reals which was the value of
the silver, cloth, and various articles which were brought duly regis-
tered from the city of Lima on account of the 212,000 ducats which
His Majesty ordered provided for the pay and expenses of the
army personnel, in which are included 44,000 reals which are levied
on increase of pay (?crecimiento) for the army chaplaincy and
transport expenses, coarse woolen cloth, sacking (arpilleras) and
other things which His Majesty purchases for the benefit of the
cloth (para beneficio de la rropa) ; and the 343,491 remaining, which
was what the silver, cloth, and other commodities on hand in the
royal stores, amounted to, was increased by (prozedieron) 3,970
income from the gristmill and the 45,942 for the cloth which is
manufactured in the Melipilla woolen mill and comes into the hands
of the Royal Officials, and the rest in silver and other commodities
likewise received by these Royal Officials on this account and for
this outlay and expenses; and there appears to have been a surplus

768 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

of 185,032 reals, which remained on hand in these royal stores in
powder, rope, harquebusses, swords, nails, iron, salt, soap, scrap
iron (herraxe), shoes, and many other things and trifles; and it is
noted that in this budget there were discounted by the city of Lima
303,820 reals in the following items:
160,000 reals which the Viceroy sent to the Royal Officials
of the city of Santiago for them to pay therewith the supplies,
stores, etc., which had been requisitioned (tomado) in past
years for budget account and to supply the army for other
purposes, as was stated in that register book..........-s..s00 160,000
109,283 reals which the same Viceroy ordered given at Lima
to President Luis de Valdivia for the maintenance of himself
and his ‘companions, and other, expenses. .cs0.+2.ceeorenss eso 100,283
7,337 reals which were paid by order of the same Viceroy
to the Royal Officials of Quito and Guayaquil for the unpaid
balance for the cost of the 200 pieces of cloth and 6,000 pairs
of shoes which were bought in the year 1611 on budget account.. 7,337

276,620 reals
24,000 reals which the same Viceroy ordered taken from the
register book (registro) and given to the Navy Paymaster
at the port of Callao to pay the soldiers who came to serve in

this. King doin. acct. vines caistecsistorejata sine escvtee e yctsrsts are letefateraatovaretrs 24,000 reals
3,200 reals which he ordered given as subvention to Capt.
Juan Peraza de Polanco who came to serve in this Kingdom
in company with Padre Luis de Valdivia and which had been
charged to the above-mentioned on his salary account, but the
Viceroy by personal provision ordered it should not be so

charged but should be given as a subvention on budget account. 3,200 reals

303,820 reals

And in conformity with the above, be these expenditures made
and these persons paid; thus this budget is acquitted, with the
surplus above explained; in attestation thereof, as His Majesty
commanded, this statement is sent, made out in the city of La Con-
cepcidn on December thirtieth, one thousand six hundred and thirteen.

Don FRANCISCO DE LILLAS y OVINA (?)
FERDINANDO DE LA GUERRA (?)

2022. TABULATION of the Audiencias (Circuit Courts), States
(Gobiernos), Corregimientos (Municipal Districts), and other civil
(de pluma) posts and of the Archdioceses and Dioceses to which
His Majesty appoints in consultation with the Supreme Council of
the Indies, in the District of the Spanish Main and Peru, and those
to which the Viceroy, Presidents, and Governors appoint, with
statement of the salaries and income which they receive.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 709

The Circuit Court of Panama was the first established on the
Spanish Main. The President receives 4,500 ducats annual salary.
It has 4 Associate Justices (Oidores), who are Alcaldes de Corte,
and an Attorney (Fiscal), each with 2,000 assay pesos; it has the
necessary additional functionaries.

2023. The Circuit Court of Santa Fé de Bogota in the New
Kingdom of Granada has a President with 6,000 ducats salary, 6
Associate Justices who are likewise Alcaldes de Corte, and an At-
torney, each receiving 800,000 (?) maravedis, and the other necessary
functionaries.

2024, The Circuit Court of San Francisco de Quito has a President
with 4,000 assay pesos, 4 Associate Justices, who are likewise Alcaldes
de Corte, and an Attorney, each with 2,000 assay pesos; it has the
other necessary functionaries and officers.

2025. The Circuit Court of Lima has a Viceroy with a salary
of 30,000 ducats; 8 Associate Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte and 2
Attorneys, each with 3,000 assay pesos; it has Relators and the other
necessary functionaries and officers.

2026. The Circuit Court of the Provinces of the Charcas, which
has its seat in the city of La Plata, has a President with a salary of
5,000 assay pesos, 4 Associate Justices who are Alcaldes de Corte,
and an Attorney, each with a salary of 4,000 assay pesos; it has the
other necessary functionaries and officers.

2027. The Circuit Court of Santiago de Chile has a President who
is Governor and Captain General of that Kingdom; he has a salary
of 5,000 mine-gold pesos (de oro de minas). It has 4 Associate
Justices who are Alcaldes de Corte and an Attorney, each with 2,000
assay pesos. There are in this court the other necessary functionaries
and officers, not counting many representatives appointed in its
districts.

So that His Majesty appoints, in the district of Peru and the
Spanish Main, to 47 posts: one Viceroy, 5 Presidents, 30 Associate
Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte and 7 Attorneys, not counting the other
necessary functionaries and officers, like Secretaries and Relators.

2028. The Circuit Court of Panama has in its district the State
of Veragua, and in church matters, the Diocese of Panama.

2029. The Circuit Court of Santa Fé de Bogota has in its district
5 States, to which His Majesty appoints in consultation with the
Supreme Council: Cartagena, Santa Marta, Antioquia, Los Musos,
and Mérida; and 3 Corregimientos: Tunja, Mariquita, and Tocaima;
and part of the State of Popayan. In church matters, it has the

50

770 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 102

Archdiocese of Santa Fé, the Diocese of Cartagena, that of Santa
Marta, and part of that of Popayan.

2030. The Circuit Court of Quito has in its district 3 States to
which His Majesty appoints: Popayan, Los Quixos, Zaguarzongo ;
and 4 Corregimientos: Quito, Cuenca, Loja, and Guayaquil. In
church matters, it has the Diocese of Quito, and part of that of
Popayan.

2031. The Circuit Court of Lima has in its district 11 Corregi-
mientos in the appointment of His Majesty in consultation with the
Supreme Council; these are Paita, Safia, Trujillo, Cajamarca, Ica,
Castrovirreina, Guamanga, Cuzco, Los Andes de Paucartambo, Are-
quipa, and Los Collaguas, and part of the State of Jaén de Braca-
moros. In church matters it has the Archdiocese of Lima, and the
Dioceses of Trujillo, Guamanga, Cuzco, and Arequipa.

2032. The Circuit Court of the Charcas has in its district 5 States,
to which His Majesty appoints in consultation with the Supreme
Council of the Indies: Chucuito, Santa Cruz, Tucuman, Paraguay,
and Buenos Ayres; and 4 Corregimientos: Potosi, Oruro, La Paz,
Arica; and one Alcalde Mayor de Minas, at Potosi. In church
matters, it has the Archdiocese of the Charcas and the Diocese of
La Paz, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos
Ayres.

2033. The Circuit Court of the Kingdom of Chile has in its district
for church administration 2 Dioceses: Santiago and La Concepcion.

2034. LIST of the governorships and other civil posts filled by
appointment of His Majesty in the Panama Circuit Court District.

Governor and Captain General of the Province of Veragua,

VGOO/ ASSAY? PESOSivr.tosisharodotel aidiete wel reeels elaeve Nemes a tocteehe ee 1,000 assay pesos
Paymaster (Contador), Treasurer, and Factor of Panama

and Puerto Bello; each has a salary of 400,000 maravedis... 400,000 maravedis

2035. The Governorships, Corregimientos, and Civil Offices (de
pluma) in the district of the Circuit Court of Santa Fé de Bogota,
and their salaries.

Governor and Captain General of Cartagena, 2,000 assay

PESOS) 6/55 Siig a cca eieteaw Sic aerev ee Mener atcue ehecerce eee eee erence sence 2,000 assay pesos
Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of Santa

Miartal:'2,000 ducati nn Grae qchetaue tact olen base aie ele enae 2,000 ducats
Governor, of Antioquia,/ 2/000. ducats, t...0.\0-10% ae etl 2,000 ducats

Governor and Captain General of Los Musos, 600,000
IMATAV ERIS. vrais cierneis See oer ATC E ECC ETC he 600,000 maravedis

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA yh

N
|

Governor and Captain General of Mérida and La Grita,

APOE MAL AVCUIS) faa 4 ceiere visa ceisie a atid aie Grete har oe Blematare ceive 450,000 maravedis
Corregidor of Tunja, 1,000 assay PeSOS...440..0006606600 5 1,000 assay pesos
Corregidor of Mariquita and its mines, 800 assay pesos... 800 assay pesos
Corregidor of Tocaima and Ibagué and the Tierra Caliente

@loty County): 1/000 assay. pesos Mis teascacn ents eens ce 1,000 assay pesos

2036. Royal Officials appointed by His Majesty in consultation
with the Supreme Council of the Indies in the district of the Circuit
Court of Santa Fé de Bogota, and the salaries they receive.

In Santa Fé de Bogota there is a Tribunal de Cuentas
(Exchequer Court) with 2 Paymasters (Contadores), each

WiaAthipdasalciveOlel SOO nCdUCALSa Nera acrncaclacion eerste oiieietee ere 1,500 ducats
There are also 2 Auditors of Accounts; each has 800

UGCA SmPN rr eRe: ince eR ye He, trotters Ae ee OE Finn eee 800 ducats
Paymaster and Treasurer of Bogota, with salary of 400,000

AURA CCHS mere ons state Et sreeeeee Mcphee estols & Mier RG Reo ee 400,000 maravedis
Paymaster and Treasurer of Antioquia, at 700 mine-gold

PESOsHCGetoLor ce smUinaS ic c.Nas sie acide sare done nae Paieare eabe.s 700 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer of Cartagena, at 300,000 mara-

CUES MCPS Mer eo Yatc aio cess S, bes che har Prorat ERIE Eco note 300,000 maravedis
Paymaster and Treasurer of Santa Marta, at 200,000

TTI UVC CIS BM TR renee eer a seater ee a eye ee oo 200,000 maravedis

2037. LIST of the Governorships and Corregimientos and Civil
Offices to which His Majesty appoints in consultation with the
Supreme Council of the Indies in the Quito Circuit Court District,
and the salaries they receive.

Governor and Captain General of Popayan has a salary of

PIOOOMAICATS Wee so 51 usc 5676) 6:5. 2155 a: Vicia: # aVede ck duatapalera env bales Ate sf oh pat rsie as Se 2,000 ducats
Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of Los Quixos,

TROOORGUCALS Mery iereieciels niches tfais/s Syeus eielahy eEsveIe oi Rie ee 1,000 ducats
Cornesidomor Ouito, 2.000 ducatsas.....cccgeceeee ae ok eee 2,000 ducats
Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of Zaguarzongo

Andmacuaderbhacamonos, 1, SO0O/CUCAtSseues oa5 - ena ae ce eieea 1,500 ducats
Correcidonotp Cuencas 800" pesos. a.k.0 cen an croce ee eee fee 800 pesos
Corregidor of Guayaquil and its provinces, 1,000 assay pesos... 1,000 pesos
Corregidor of Loja.and Zaruma,, 1,500) ducats<2.4..4.020..hos 1,500 ducats
Paymaster and Treasurer of the city of Quito; each has a

Salas Ol GOO MMESOS «4 cierate' so sinie.0'apa'e Died ame a RI ise re eevee las 500 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer of Popayan, at 400 pesos............ 400 “
Paymaster and Treasurer of Loja, at 600 pesos................ 600 +“
Paymaster and Treasurer of the city and port of Guayaquil;

SACK Pas Ka eSd Als Ol, FOO) PCSOS< a2 aos aie cree weenstsnee iouslon apes z caie somites 300“

2038. LIST of the Corregimientos and Civil Offices to which His
Majesty appoints, in consultation with the Supreme Council of the

7/2 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Indies, in the district of the Circuit Court of Lima, and the salaries

they receive.

Corregidor of Piura and Paita, 1,200 assay pesoS.............. 1,200 pesos
oe “Satias 1,000 assay: PesOSseaeen mane sclariec eae 1000) fe
we ~wbrujillo: 2:000,assay, pesOSmacereniie eae aaa 2,000“
<* Cajamarca, 11,000 assays peSOSseeiat eae ee neee 1000 a
tt “re liGal ESOONASSAY, DESOSMeeten tem ert a eee ee 800 2
* “ Castrovirreina and its mines, 1,000 assay pesos... 1,000 “
s < Guamanga, .2,000 saSsay. pesos ja nanesicne: Hee ae 25000 Uits
* *C11zZCO:) 31000! ASSAY speSOSue eae ae eee eer ee 30001
Pe “ LostAnd es) \2:000iaSSayi PESOS aieciecteciee cee aieke eaneete 25000) *;
ye Arequipa; 2000 aSSay. PESOS ae aie seit tice cher eee 2,000 “
The Tribunal de Cuentas of Lima has 3 paymasters, each with a
salary Of 2,700 \dUCatS es io ter MS tircrcisicie scr si Re IGle ete et acetone 2,700 ducats
2 Auditors (Ordenadores) of the Tribunal, at 1,200 ducats..... T2001) tee
Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor at Lima, at 1,200 ducats...... 1200) aoe
Paymaster and Treasurer of Paita and Piura, at 300 assay pesos. 300 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer of Trujillo, at 1,000 ducats........... 1,000 ducats
Factor at Chincha, charged with the receipt of the mercury, at
800: ASSAY PESOS... «. caresihac Sartre evel ee she re a Se eta rele arene eee 800 pesos
Paymaster and Treasurer of Castrovirreina, at 800 pesos....... S00n
e cs o “ Guamanga, at 1,000 assay pesos.... 1,000 “
= ‘ y = (Guzco, at Soo ducatsee. a. .mis-1t-- 800 ducats
- z ‘Arequipa, at, G00) GUCATS enters are stes te{ooy

2039. LIST of the Governorships, Corregimientos, and Civil Of-
fices to which His Majesty appoints in the Charcas Circuit Court

District, and the salaries they receive.

Governor of the Chucuito Provinces, 3,000 assay pesos... 3,000 pesos
“and Captain General of Santa Cruz de la Sierra,

3.000" ‘ASSAY “PESOS! fasciitis gn cra sisters ta tesd coer ithe: Mater eteiecarer ets 3,000 “
Governor and Captain General of Tucuman, 4,000 assay
PCSOS EL iless codec igre ead Spe ea Osta le dene oe at ope 3+ 4,000. ay

Governor and Captain General of Paraguay, 2,000 ducats. 2,000 ducats

“ “cc “e “

of Buenos Ayres, 3,000

CUCAES NS Satta vas O bnSer ea ee OE ere soe 3,000 +“
Corregidor of Potosi, 3}000 assay ‘pesos. ..2..¢.....-<.0- 3,000 pesos
Alcalde Mayor of the Potosi mines and range, 1,500 assay

PESOS cscversisucl gue: sislibus atevaterotar ator euerertere oe oaesie OT oe oe eet 15007
Corregidor of Oruro, 2,000assay peSOSs......+<.csceee 21000" *

< a Pazis2'00onassay speSOS sna. ainsaelaniete > 1 20005

* “* Arica, 5,000. aSSay: PESOSsa;.ie0s10 sine eee aE 1,000 =“
Paymaster, Treasurer, and Factor of Potosi, at 2,000 assay

PESOS) sia as gr ceralere eles rere Oe ein ele Om ee ene tt, (2000), foe.

Contador de granos (Paymaster of the Granos Fund) at
Potosi 800 assays pesosa shiei. ee te eee iene tention: 800! =

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 773

Paymaster and Treasurer of Oruro, at 800 pesos......... 800 pesos
oe os ~ ‘Arica, at 1,000 PESOS)... TO00F aa:
oe a eankaz at cOOIduCats acme ccs 800 ducats
7s i y “ Tucuman, at 500 pesos...... 500 pesos
‘ i . “Buenos Ayres and Rio de la
Plataneates SO OOOLMATAV.ECIS).c)./er.tarcin. evsleteuereleloreretetetaeiere iors 350,000 maravedis

2040. In the Circuit Court District of the Kingdom of Chile.

Paymaster and Treasurer of Santiago de Chile, at salaries.

Ol SOO OOOMMATAVERTS a.2)c io sieraiets srstele se craven To cvsre chemise eersrenon 500,000 maravedis
Paymaster and Treasurer of La Concepcion, at 500,000
ATI UIeAUVECHI SHIR Petets, Shas asec crests sis aise Siete 6aWe Creer ac nie a Le era EE 500,000 “

So that His Majesty appoints, in consultation with the Supreme
Council of the Indies, in the District of Peru and the Spanish Main,
to 37 judicial posts: 14 Governorships, 22 Corregimientos, and the
Alcaldia Mayor de minas at Potosi; and 62 civil posts, with the 2
Tribunales de Cuentas at Lima and Santa Fé de Bogota.

2041. Corregimientos filled by appointment of the Viceroy of Peru,
the Presidents of the Circuit Courts of Santa Fé de Bogota in the
New Kingdom of Granada, and of the Kingdom of Chile, and the
Governor of Popayan, with the salaries they receive, and the Circuit
Court Districts and Dioceses in which they fall.

In the District of the Circuit Court and Archdiocese of Lona the
Viceroy appoints to 15 Corregimientos :

HIB Cen cad one «tasers tate ets aie oo odin ead teaiee 4 he EE TU 500 pesos
MhextowlmotaCaneterand (Chincha... s« se seri eaten nora: $00) 9s
erate) Atnedo. in the Chancay. Valley..c.. 42 ese ee 800“
hare IAA NN. : poaieew o hes eager ds OF aoa ohet thease 800“
ihewirovinceou vel uarochiris ccs sce aece ascent ae ae 800 “
sihepbrovince or Cantar: sa se ceche Baan eee tooo re ie ee aoe Son 5
ithevProvincerand Walleysor Jauja:.sscc4:.sseese st ceo ee oes 1.400 <
MhesProvince tor os! YauyOss-.0.5 cares scan cameo eae S00 ye
MM SPTOW IEG EeOatibase cate cvete. tase ale nc ererdniatslers wistereve Hel avsheremeh eee atone SO0n mea:

In the same District of the Circuit Court and Archdiocese, in the
jurisdiction of the city of Leén de Huanuco:

City on Leonide Huanuco ide los ‘Caballeros. ..\.:. ./. <htes 0. 2s se 36 800 pesos
PO VINcem Ole CONCHUCOSS:; es os 5 aisles aa aeeteerer ole sieiee clauses Oe rite T0008 Gee
and? Valleysot JHiuailas cic a5 uceies ln ete emcees see. E0007) 1
Me OLulwos Mluamaliesis.c. oa cc assesses tee eee ee [000 =
34 oe CAJATAIN DOM Wo, s.5.cieid oh Mole She SE Feels alee Celera ae ae 1,000“

mlarinarangd @hinchaycochaesd-¢ se cen e scisecaee es 1,000

7/4 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

In the same Lima Circuit Court District, in the Diocese of Trujillo,
he appoints to 5 Corregimientos:

Chicamap Valley” j.a2 22. ec di eetees RE GAT e noer eee eee 800 pesos
Chiclayo” Walley: . 2iias..48 4h aces somes eine ene eee oe 800) =
City -Gfyi Chachapoyas, ‘s xs «ss «scissile siiecilee ae on a oe sco.
Province. of (Cajamarquilla del: Collayy.)3.. 43.002 s. ssn eee TO00M 5
Luya and) Chillaos: os ges obec sate cate te en se Cea are Abeer 7OOFP tn

2042. In the same Lima Circuit Court District, in the Diocese of
Guamanga, he appoints to a Governorship and 4 Corregimientos:

Governor of the Huancavelica mercury mines............ 2,000 assay pesos
Province Of Chocorvosadesc asec c een ee . 1,000 pesos
“"Azangaro and Eluantas tc teeta a eae 1/000) (ae
> NSLCHS is the civil ctoratars Guid oe aia recone Veal OOO S
Hs SILOS HAMCANASE ce A oh ee eee ee ener: T; GOO) ii

In the District of the Diocese of the imperial city of Cuzco, which
is in the Lima Circuit Court jurisdiction, he appoints to 17 Corregi-
mientos :

Province of |Andahuailas.< ait aura bauiose ave tone ee ae 1,000 pesos
Aibancay ie tc. sucdie cee eee aicalev inset sis4oheus) onset er eyeie elses aac cee 1,000),
Province of Gotabamibas: <a out cscs die ae ee ee 1,000, *
re and mines*or. Valeabamibals 2 sjcawaserdca sete sete ee ene 1,000)
eS of Los Parinacochas:) ate. .tees eeode eae see atfoyayoy
He Los’ Ayimaraes in... sass sesalecuenaiend cee eee 1,000; 1
3 ? \OMASAY OS?) (sisi o4 coe erat se a aera es GRRE ee 1,000) =
x * ‘Ghumibivilcasi dice cttetecis ae aetna dace ae eee T0007) |
= te -Welille: =5..:s hers ssshnierenn eee ees Ca Eee 1000
: ““\Oisispicanche: .\o.cscae ote es Cae eee 1 OOO Ean
Yueay. Valley: 522.4306 scatead baak oc wateusle te eee eae O00) a
Province or *Ganasiand) «Ganchise. «use. sa ane ee oe ee ee 1,000) ie
e *i@abanaand iGahbanillasss sao doit eee 1. O0ON mins
a S MEARACO!, 5.'s,by ad eke eaiaue Soe Oe ere ORO aT eee ee 1;000/0mn |
a » INsillov andwAzangarossees ace aioe eee 1/000 es
iCaravayae vars stasis tacit masse erate ae eee 800) =
: “Ghisques: and! “Masques. Vis. 4c:sda¢ fee see ta te ote 1,000“

2043. In the Diocese of Arequipa, in the same Lima Circuit Court
District, he appoints to 5 Corregimientos:

Provitice: of. ‘Condesttyosio..)susenca cttee poae See eee 1,000 pesos
Valley-and) Town of Camanas aoa 8s. sae ee eee Ear)
Province of Tos. Ubinasy 222355 on tee ee eee eee Qo0) 7
Vitor and ‘Stguas:“Valleysivs, onvoas canoes + tae eee Eee 600 1“

Moquegua. Valley: . . 2225228. ech aaeee ae eee 1,000

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 775

In the District of the Circuit Court and the Archdiocese of the
Charcas, he appoints to 11 Corregimientos:

IBEOVINCEROL ISOS, “AMMPATAES vase. wieicie lore avelsleva lel sietoreteharctsiaiels eheveds eho 1,000 pesos
S Sm Ehrayatitae | toh slseveteccte sieve oecevake eel niet ete ct ahetatotenrens ce ateks E000" © =
MOwsileana Mines OL LOLCOne,« cielere cleioisis ciel nue ists ee ete ekecnsersioks L000,
PROMI ap PETOLtLEL | ors: h ayersie aa soisva cuels ele 4 Oreievero eto creases oietareisle Terete (6 800 “
Pilayasandeaspayal Valleys snieiciresicictertsts cers erticreieiete tieretotoneeoteaere 1000) =
Towniot Marija and: Province of, Ghichas.....scsec sees. e «5 800 “
IBywenabareacwrore dbvopsell Brose ek seein Ch iat eta niarie ecko a Bene IG GORE 800 “
PEOVANCEROLEA taGaMlariaycrrcboralecteie a ccoteiorleterne Mrs eNeielere coh nels cmnerere 1000)
i Paria A cate Skee ciane ecole ain aha leieke nt otendeye Soaesvone 1,000“
SS dsOSt Caran Case saratocen clei ahevcrelatetel cue sictoheteyeysr ceo ea her T0000
a andy Walley Ob Cochabamba. stars, csilssa ele ateie mosis e(erata iatere = T-000! as.

2044. In the Diocese of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, in the same
Circuit Court District, he appoints to one Corregimiento :

Town of Rio de Pisuerga in the Misque Valley...............- 1,000 pesos

In the Diocese of La Paz, in the Circuit Court District of the
Charcas, he appoints to 5 Corregimientos :

Province: ots eaucancollard } cients bic entiation ainie eis nisereisle invetete ce 1,000 pesos
- PPV AATE Cal anys ecctdec ciesineie wlstinte sis ccpasie tes aia ie certo 1000!) |
s sa (CAracOllo LANG: SICASICAN a a euclaveiaielo siete Care anteaters 1,000“
os PPL OITIASTIV OS: ve ciara) aus sie iets em ROR bees RY ataeeta acters 1,000“
4 SEMEQSY PACA CS. vs sista sean siglo stems aromsts en cieiols ler onaaye nsereenes 1000)

The President of Panama appoints a Corregidor in the town of
Santos and its district.

2045. In the District of the Circuit Court and Diocese of Quito,
the Viceroy appoints to the 5 following Corregimientos :

Province Of OtavalOs.. cccst.ccics na so clisiawi santos eioeaniacielrebrs 500 pesos
eS COMES PAVAUIN DOS\s siesatets co icles ole TS nie a alee oe erro one SOO) me
so ANd MtowiOr leatacumeian «cise saejarcels cvsiersiersaiciersaieiete SOOr ns

MO wneromeRiOMatr Darter ste stewie eterersls:<soe is ejeleya/elelsueyerctelreveletieieleveieve levers SOO) Ne

Provincemot GHiMbO. uci. 1s eleceave areraieceteye eyausiaueistejatcltareyeres rants SOO) fee

In the Quito Circuit Court District and Diocese of Popayan, the
Governor of Popayan appoints to 4 Corregimientos:

PO PAV AU te ete tcl ow: Siotavs ore oh aicials ehatele suave! o\oVer ania ot asalt faye ete leyera\winks xe 400 pesos
DAS tO Mer erate inie cclovclavoieteve cas ansleletetelare, \euevaloie ueteteloteks ce eretalcracsroxerets 500)
PASTA OME Ts reye siavsra-0 cue oie ee) sinleye sielobaistatalaie operate sistteeeataerapareetetetats 300“
WR GNeACL AMIEL LGN i oye cosas echo Ahapertves Siero 1s loyoraka convoterayataratanete Ate ctier a apelebetaisveuchs 100,

2046. In the District of the Circuit Court and Archdiocese of Santa
Fé de Bogota, the President of the New Kingdom of Granada

776 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS — VOL. 102

appoints to 20 Corregimientos and names I Juez de Canoas (Boat
Inspector), each of whom has a salary of 200, 250, or 300 gold
pesos (pesos de oro); he appoints also other officers and makes
temporary appointments when posts filled by His Majesty fall vacant.

Ubateé Ubaque

Guatavita Bosa

Suesca Sabana de Bogota
Chia Panches and Sutagaos

In the Tunja District of the same Archdiocese:

Chita Sogamoso

Gameza Soata

Tensa Sachica

Toca Pamplona

Ceniza Alcalde Mayor de Minas de Pam-
Moabita plona
Turmequeé

He appoints also an Administrator for the Mitayos.

2047. The Governor and President of the Chile Circuit Court fills
13 Corregimientos by appointment; they have no fixed salary, but
receive what is due them, according to the statement filed in each
case. In the Diocese of Santiago de Chile, he appoints to the 8
following :

Santiago Melipilla

La Serena Colchagua
Mendoza in Cuyo Province Maule
Quillota Copiapo Valley

In the District of the Diocese of La Concepcién, he appoints to
the 5 following Corregimientos :

La Concepcion Itata
San Bartolomé de Chillan Talcahuano
City of Castro on Chiloé

The Viceroy of Peru appoints also 4 Supervisors (Veedores) for
the Potosi mining range; they are under the orders of the Potosi
Alcalde Mayor de Minas, and receive salaries of 500 assay pesos.

2048. Besides the above judicial posts, the Viceroy of Peru also
makes the following appointments :

In the city of Lima he appoints a Receiver of Accounts (Con-
tador de Cuentas) for the audits (residencias) imposed on the
Corregidores ; he is appointed by the same Viceroy to see that they
give good account of the tribute they collect from the Indians,
which is called the tax rate (tasa). This Contador has a salary
Olin 300" ASSAY. PESOS: ..< ace saceete Mie ee eee Ce aoa oer me 300 pesos

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA Th

He appoints another Contador in this city of Lima, who is
called the Contador de Retasas (Reappraisement), which are the
statements of the amount of the tribute collected from the Indians.
Hephaswacsalaryxor SOOlaSSaV PESOS. 5. sci ae cecislceis era eerie eit: 500 pesos
He appoints in this same city an Administrador de los Censos of
the Indians (Indians’ tax list); this is a highly profitable and
authoritative (de confianza) post.
He appoints a Paymaster (Contador) and Inspector (Veedor)

of Fleet and Rations; his salary is 1,200 assay peSOS............-. T:200)-
He appoints an Assayor and Weighmaster (Balanzario), who

astatsal any Of A001 ASSAY: PESOS fs seers e-orels aysne se foustelsioha’s blowuelelmins ctehane AOO he
He appoints a Contador de Granos (Paymaster of the Granos

Bund) with asalatry of S00 aSSay “PESOS: s.jiccawiet wesiecioweies «eels 800 “
Another Weighmaster and Alguacil (Constable) of the Treasury,

Withwancalary Ol 400) ASSAY PESOSG 4 ntis-tcicieioatofeeis oe exisroausiate ste «pete AOOm mie
In Caravaya he appoints a Paymaster and a Treasurer, each with

a salary of 500: gold pesos (pesos de Oro) \.:. <:2:2 <ins'is.<e.s% ete afeleicis Govoy
In the city of Leén de Huanuco, a Paymaster and a Treasurer,

EAChiwats ZOO ASSAY, PESOS isc acis ciety.» © cxctelelc leu) actor o¥e tate s oie ome te efal= eral ine 3001

At Potosi, an Administrador (Collector) de los Censos (Taxes)
of the Indians; he gets 10 percent of what he collects (administra).
He is also judge.

Protector of the Indians, at Potosi, with a salary of 1,200 assay

TSSSOS MMPS Me atolls avn, Nace ohooh acer of ofssiaiadalolon crate leo xt 1< oioenehane th aalions 1200s
Contador de Granos (Paymaster of the Granos Fund), at Potosi,

Elm OOD EAS SAME DCSOS tisenaic 22 ch wai siti aieraltyehs Goce ts ert ee ikeneleterelareiens 800 “
Paymaster and Treasurer of Chachapoyas, at a salary of 150

ASSAM ESOS retain reels Reveencecesclersicyensteus, srcneis esses svene%sieys lofeveusys encpoycuciees chats {oy
Inspector for the collection of the tribute of Chucuito; he has

AnSalatayeOte Dl; 2O0VASSAY: PESOS wes ersfersisjate clelsie) wietave (ote lereie clereis eleteters sieiats 1,200) =

He appoints 25 Supervisors (Administraciones) of the Indians’
community income and the woolen mills, with salaries of 500, 800,
and 1,000 pesos.

He appoints in that vast Kingdom many Protectors of the In-
dians, who all receive salaries of 500 or 800 pesos, and many other
officials whom it is impossible to enumerate.

Mreastrer Ol Marija, 500 aSSAy; PESOS. cf. «7..a/s's reac, yetnclete sueyersis sie 500

Alcalde Mayor de Minas for Caravaya, 250 pesos de minas.... 250

“

“cc

2049. There are 2 Tribunals of the Holy Inquisition: that of Lima
has always had 2 Inquisitors and an Attorney, each with a salary
of 3,000 assay pesos. It has Secretaries and other functionaries,
appointed by the Inquisitor General, but everything is approved and
passed upon by the Royal Council for the Indies.

The Tribunal of the Holy Inquisition in Cartagena is more recent.
It has 2 Inquisitors, an Attorney and the other officials and
functionaries.

There are Higher Tribunals of the Holy Crusade in all the cities
with Circuit Courts; the Commissaries are appointed by the Com-
missary General and approved by the Royal Council.

778 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

2050. General statement of the amount and the distribution of the
Indian taxes (tasas), made by order of Viceroy Don Francisco de
Toledo in the year 1575, from the Provinces of the Charcas to those
of Guayaquil in the Diocese of Quito, containing 614 repartimientos
or encomiendas (Indian apportionments). The amount came to
1,384,228 assay pesos and 26 granos; but this has all fallen off
because the Indians are decreasing in numbers and there is nothing

defiite ain this? 5.3.0 30 a ae te ee eee 1,384,228 pesos 26 granos
In the Charcas Provinces, 188,693 assay pesos 3 tomines.......... 188,693-2

““ “"“Chuquiabo Provinces, 178,053 assay pesos 4 tomines........ 178,053-4

“ “Cuzco and Chucuito Provinces, 493,495 assay pesos 2 tomines 493,495-2

“ “"“Guamanga Provinces, 107,530 assay pesos 2 tomines....... 107,530-2

“ “Arequipa Provinces, 112,440 assay pesos 5 tomines......... 112,440-5

“ “ Lima Provinces, 141,886 assay pesos 3 tomines............. 141 ,886-3

“ “Leon de Huanuco Provinces, 66,654 assay pesos 6 tomines.. 66,654-6

fe “TLrujillos Provinces, '60;48Ay assaympesOse. een cc seelmneterriant: 60,484

San Miguel de Piura Provinces, 12,861 assay pesos 2 tomines 12,861-2
Guayaquil and Puerto Viejo Provinces, 13,126 assay pesos
A LOMINES hans RAs ees oe bras cee REO isto cee ie terekel 13,126-4

Distribution of the Indian taxes (tasa).

Tio -theicuracies, 280,840) pesos/26 Sranos. .c....22+ cece eres cedars 280,849—26
For churchibuilding.e5/540 pesOSs..cien ccs ie a elemento 5,541

Hor hospitals, 35075 spesosuiaieniecoe seo ene eee ore 3,075
Justices’ salaries, 182305 jpesos mt tominis (eels ce nee ee tee iene 181,305-I
Caciques’ salaries, 153/020 pesos, 6 tomineS....sc0 ce sang. accion - 153,920-0
To established encomenderos, 859,228 pesos 26 granos............. 859,228——26

From these 859,228 pesos 26 granos of the encomenderos, should
be deducted the diminution which has taken place since the assess-
ment, because it has all fallen off. The residues applied to good
purposes amount each to 72,101 pesos from the year 1581 on, as is
stated by Dr. Diego Méndez in his chart; as regards the rest, it has
not been possible to verify the facts.

2051. In the District of the Kingdom of Peru and the Spanish
Main, His Majesty, in consultation with the Supreme Council of the
Indies, appoints to 3 Archdioceses and 16 Dioceses. The Dioceses
will all be listed with their metropolitans and dignitaries, Canons,
Prebendaries, half-time Prebendaries, with the income they receive,
although there is no exactitude (punto fijo).

Archdiocese of Santa Fé with its suffragans:

Archdiocese: of ;SantaPe. de sBogotacs.0 seek eee ae 14,000 pesos
Diocese of ‘Cartagenasciaco cee hc. cone oe eee a eee 3,000 ducats
ME Santa Wi Martank aes sec Se ee eee 500,000 maravedis

“é “ce

e POpayannt iiclaves Migs eine ee Eee aie cere 500,000

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 779

Archdiocese of Lima with its suffragans:

PAT CHO IOCESC OL LAIN Aly. erettray acinevarseialed overs: aay Sore aetaehe a Chena 50,000 pesos
DiOCeSem Oller jill Ox coerce <ccecte rarer coaiosetteve: Sole oes oheosinls helo TA‘OO0! § +s
s smn a OOUICOL: 1s cc's. hsyo Gis Slo ob Cisia es MIC PN eA On 14,000 “
aa SATIAITIA © © afs)srava resol sietorees nieve, arotalareialow aisle fe sistemas 6,000“
eee (GUATIAN GA) s2 5 6 oe aie crags ohaare ee were wiecie sapere he S'G00sn a)
cs eM (OTTZ COM Briecovsyc or Sevoretalckecc tere ny ror ola oreaetokt is PEON 20,000 “
a LANT COUP Ay. bcfiatectcescicisleete mee sraetan ee yeas 14,000 “
Sete Satitiago: de: Chiles. eccacniis aes ioe elie eet. OOO. eee
meee dc) CONCEPCION «sot sre aieroisie cc sie eiare, ates olere ste neera tens 500,000 maravedis

Archdiocese of the Charcas, and its suffragans:

Nv chdtocesemot thes Charcas: «cies. sis ive aioe ce eleeiceeieeies 60,000 pesos

ID 1GEesemOim Bay PAZ ).cao ccayoiscsustiyesscieia sm aesiesosneist sce OO 14,000, =
we Wb Seiiel Gebaceiky Sram cpouaqacaues adesouccuece 9,000 =“
mma LS TI CUTAN mies vac era ots ceveseonucisvasee Creation eet ctnte 7AOCOMM
AMRIT ALAC TIAV' Nosy cna e caved otters ie ook ee eee Oe 500,000 maravedis
pee tied UCN OS cAV TES 2 oo,< oe cree eclawe ce meres Aoi eer reas 500,000 “

2052. Archdiocese of Lima: 50,000 pesos; Archbishop, Dr. Her-
nando Arias Ugarte; has 5 dignitaries:

1B) CasTWARS COMDESOSiai «crane iavere eveic sateclinievel ots Gusfelevais ctobs nie eae aie er ners 4,250 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster (Maestre Escuela), and Trea-

SURG haa tare SPR ereicyaors ete talee ian eite ean OCG o one 33008 a a
teh asy oe Sanonsratitacrs | arse severe saerehatrstemvcicietae suoteys revelers seetele 2,816 “
OwErebendariess CRacioneros)) at... cscs scice erie elec eecrecicte O70) aes
6 Half-time Prebendaries (Medias Raciones) at............... 985 “*
6.Ghom, Chaplains (Capellanos de,Coro) at..c.co4.05,. cece eons 503)
Superintendent: (Mayordomo))) cieeiecctaiercreietoieis ler) sae) al ciecliey-tniene ss 1,407.)
GhieteSacristan! (Sacristam: May Or)itc ca ayes heise ce als cielareieie lelere le 600 =“
OrcanistsNotany, and Vereen ate sje cteciere «lo arassietel stars leieioielseiete ADO
Beadlem(Ganicttlatio)jm cretes acts © cco tuted ose oieuelas Sleiaverevensyscihe' felts Rete)

Diocese of Trujillo, 14,000 pesos.
Bishop, Dr. Carlos Marcelo. This church has 3 dignitaries:

ME) CAT oper reyes eS oe side cadres Coa oor nel elaratoge stehetionsy Sus lol sh sietraiateterere esis 2060), 5
IArchdeanivand erecentor ate svc sarieciecetio cee esins sees L7o5e
Am @aniorisnateiie ss isis elo biome stata aiid Ania sttewialt es abtacuelthemcletes EGSSieten
DMEreMenMablesnatincs ctectcrs| deine shinee sve. ae ala mate eeicieton Tore pt cisions O70) 4 ie

Diocese of Guamanga, 8,000 pesos.
Bishop, Dr. Don Francisco Verdugo. This church has 3 dignitaries:

IB) Sea ees rss a cull ova ds so alare Sine iste oeie ore Stand ore ust oaet ee eu greietavar eset siee 1,830 pesos
Arehdeantand ibrecentor atinacicstei ce lesistels. siete creicrelelsiels everererellnenels TSGOs es
DM GATIONS Kaltes ei ciols oiacc os ose ela avo 8 6 eaiere ete e etaeeuere clare a Shea Rersaetetens 1,220

“

780 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

2053. Diocese of Cuzco, 20,000 pesos.
Bishop, Fray Fernando de Vera, Augustinian. It has 5 dignitaries :

TV CAI Jie erate ter share’ onetonaze here ekersterehohekoretts fatetohel chakra taMCRAN ee NSESN GR NAR et 2,955 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... ZIC SON is
OX Canons at sea a he crave) slalererratauone heute rr erete ale oe rar tek AY as aE OS4ue =.
3) Prebendaries: at: is. sioccctercioveiat ter vo ra oo rae eter ea eee te LOG ae

Diocese of Arequipa, 14,000 pesos.
Bishop, Fray Pedro de Perea, Augustinian. It has 5 dignitaries:

TQ Cates eve ayers etch tat ene Rare Eee ea re er 2,070 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer............. T;S00%0 tr
5 CANONS Atras’owaiacaltyeraisinetonrcileieeee eee OER eee T3800) ss
2 Prebendanies ated aasdcrcelonaee aro tea a Oe COA Mims:
2 Halt-timey Prebendariesaatea.,ciccreii cee eee ae SOO ys

Diocese of Quito, 14,000 pesos.
Bishop, Fray Bernardo de Ubiedo, of the Order of St. Bernard.
This church has 5 dignitaries:

DCA nl iy sisiojo cua pada, ee Came REC Re OG ee erie 1,858 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... T6010) seas
It has: 5 Ganonsiat. 2.45 oe eee BOG ee creer 1,240 “
4 APrebendaries cates tess See ee eee goo “

Diocese of Panama, 6,000 pesos.
Bishop, Fray Cristobal Martin, Premonstratensian. This church

has 5 dignitaries:

DDO AM! Foie seve evessus-syevss oud ouster encore io at's arars, 5y/e eee sTonete Sloysted ousvorere vere oiciekersterye 1,500 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... 1200)
B° (Canons Wabead Megs cierael cre citar ctevotcaavers weseete tie erscernelc Or tenenerre 1,000) > =

2054. Diocese of Santiago de Chile, 5,000 pesos.
Bishop, Don Francisco de Salcedo. This church has 5 dignitaries:

TGA soc aisldtts eve lcve bare O obties h ove Rae ene Aer ne 1,000 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... 800° ©
A’ Canons atic. sancimct des een at nice aac Oe ene 600 “

Diocese of La Concepcion, 500,000 maravedis.
Bishop, Fray Luis Jeronimo de Oreb, Franciscan. It has 2 digni-
taries :

DQ att 6 sc. sie acacadnacare tare, o areions svete ional tate tele te Oe om en rere Mare 700 pesos
Awchidean: 2, sal PRES euih 6s cae ceeseeet enon ee eee ake S5Om ee
2. Canons) ats, wantin ot otis aes cee eee eee eee A00}ne a

Archdiocese of Santa Fé de Bogota of the New Kingdom of
Granada, 14,000 pesos.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 781

Archbishop, Don Julian de Cortazar. This church has 5 dignitaries :

TO) Gr eardiaaaes ege reser ss cs Povcan nish ov ci cea Sas TeNe bi ab shee ou one OSE OG Ie See tales esate Tahoe aisha cane 1,500 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... 1,300" 5
Am GAN ONS eat ercrsts: coi c.5 aici acess apsteie ever Seema relarae Gus wlotnaeeel ncnate aac sl oleterey i TAOOO" se
RPE TCOEMGUATICS at Sincere ach tat eetoua le ete oslo erat hae RE Le erele ie Goo “

Diocese of Cartagena, 3,000 ducats.
Bishop, Don Diego Ramirez de Cepeda, Friar of the Order of
Santiago. There are 5 dignitaries:

IB) aries vee ine a chi ous Seats tes Pinte shes Seale orotenoe ote abner isla shauetons love sirens 1,400 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at........... 1;200) |
Zee CAMONSH Al Ris stesso eee eos Fe Arne SISNET DIS) coeE LS ie Ie Osiete a.a ee ene, 1.0000 =

Diocese of Santa Marta, 500,000 maravedis. .
Bishop, Dr. Don Lucas Garcia. This church has 4 dignitaries:

DD) Sealy heen ah ones lone fs, Sins sve eva abs tere aroha. oer eseleyahateie ele tevarwreteuelcee <eqeeare @ 600 pesos
ArchdeanPrecentor, and reasurer ats cc.c conics sarsiele- © acete el ole 400° =
Me ATI OTARR ape rarer elses esd alas fone Tove Soa totel ies Sires tolaus cieietere tier levoleieiennes 200.8 We

2055. Diocese of Popayan, 500,000 maravedis.
Bishop, Fray Ambrosio Vallejo, Carmelite. It has 5 dignitaries:

Ib) eaters Tees cops cucccr estar eet en sweher eae iarereitnensioe wvefcusvavoueseueboteye cdorors 700 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer............. 550 “
There are no canons in this church.

Archdiocese of the Charcas, 60,000 pesos.
Archbishop, Fray Francisco de Sotomayor, Franciscan. This
church has 5 dignitaries:

Saran eae tee kee oo el Aare whol ed nersioe save a) adi pioctava morta arate erat 5,000 pesos
Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer at.......... A;500\ 6
MN AMONG Mra E i-t etic: sys «/sim)eicte-e el aiele it html dst ede ao elsjelnyw) aierevshasshatreusie} sats 4,000 “
GM rehendaniesw atians sirveye cbeieiorrsie ie cisia setstevsr stone ehsbaneySccitea choy oys fevers Zoya)

Diocese of La Paz, 14,000 pesos.
Bishop, Don Pedro de Valencia. This church has 3 dignitaries :

TD Satie ee cerca ovo eatielole cilan cy aretuaierelovetseansratere iene sioyeieuere;sreversncts 1,400 pesos
INE CHCeAiia dle erecent Ota cite le. wicicve ere sstelete, ere lederore ei eceveystere siete lol siete 1200) 2
Ria ase sp CATIONS Malty-s0.5).j00 10,0) 1s Sielate yeravsrsl st aidta.se is ero! ow lo'esnitus 6) ascs) =n TAOOO! We
RTE Dendaniesmat as cqete aeirtes mvareroieiselelacchokeicl eases era ol-aehetsersuetsforcre 700 =“

2056. Diocese of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, 9,000 pesos.
Bishop, Fray Fernando de Ocampo, Franciscan. 2 dignitaries :

ID CAT IT rere wicks Cole o oreaishol cae tar esohel otc concn ekeroferekevatsfoxsveve iss) oycls 1,800 pesos

ING CHIC ALINE Te eT crete letenlee steosi ohare ei chercuchole iorersterep=n= 1,600 “
De CATION Swat ares oo cicheveretoxc tere eve ciietaneheioieleis/ here shel ocoNels creseltoversieleierons 1,300

“

782 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Diocese of Tucuman, 7,000 pesos.

Bishop, Fray Tomas de Torres, Dominican. This church has 5
dignitaries :

DP Canty tise ete Biz cians Stegane y's. a teesetos eh oala ou ore aR REE Ee eee 1,600 pesos

Archdean, Precentor, Choirmaster, and Treasurer.............. 1,400 “
There are no canons.

Diocese of Paraguay, 500,000 maravedis.
Bishop, Fray Cristobal de Aresti, Benedictine. This church has
3 dignitaries :

DD) Camara S25, csc ayer atan ocalos ease Meesavertr shen aro ote eet TRS rete E a eT Nee 500 pesos
Archdean: and Precentorvatencnctnecteen deceit ite eect 500 +“
2 \Canonssats ve srs tenia srenterees a tematee ey me titers eo ia Rea eie AON iis

Diocese of Buenos Ayres, 500,000 maravedis.
Bishop, Fray Pedro Carranza, Carmelite. 2 dignitaries:

PCa oe ordi Gieng sieralesh hve Sekt g sie reais: Sheiar erie aectrek ateca tamer enemies 550 pesos
ATChAGAN . o:63:sidsdiw a stuesciosagheioeisrsslatatee see ee ene ee SOOM ms
2 ‘Canons? ate sacokews + archaeon be tee Bo ee ee CG ere A00! Mies

2057. Summary of all the appointments made by His Majesty in
the District of Peru and the Spanish Main, in consultation with the
Supreme Council of the Indies: in 6 Circuit Court Districts, 47
Ministers: at Lima, a Viceroy, 8 Justices, 4 Alcaldes de Corte, and
2 Attorneys; at Santa Fé de Bogota, a President, 6 Justices, and I
Attorney ; for the Charcas, a President, 4 Justices, and an Attorney ;
at Quito, a President, 4 Justices, and an Attorney; at Panama, a
President, 4 Justices, and an Attorney; for Chile, a President, 4
Justices, and an Attorney; not reckoning other functionaries and
officials, such as Secretaries, Relators, and other posts.......... 47

His Majesty appoints also, in consultation with the Supreme
Council, to 37 judicial posts: 14 are Governorships, 22 Corregimientos,
and t-Alealdia-ideiMinassat\Potostal weeks tates sl ee 37

He appoints to 62 offices or posts of Paymasters (Contadores),
Treasurers, and Factors, as is stated in the proper place........ 62

In church affairs, he appoints heads of 19 churches; 3 are Archi-
episcopal Metropolitans, and 16 Episcopal Bishops............. 19

In these 19 churches, he appoints to 174 benefices: 77 Dignitaries,
72 Canons, 27 Prebendaries, 8 Half-time Prebendaries, not counting
6 Choir Chaplains of the Lima Metropolitan, and other less im-
portant appointees: «2.47 4aiters shes eae ee CO ee 174

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 783

2058. The Viceroy of Peru, the Presidents of the New Kingdom of
Granada and of Chile, and the Governor of Popayan, appoint to 107
judicial posts ; in this, the Viceroy appoints to 68 Corregimientos, and
the Governorship of Huancavelica; the President of the New King-
dom of Granada, 20 Corregimientos, and a Juez de Canoas (Boat
Inspector) ; the President of Chile, 13 Corregimientos; and the
Governor of Popayan, 4 Corregimientos, as is stated in proper
POLAC CMP R tye) isha Soi ios 02, oper scarey tata ore ARMs, ae Fan oh ensec mate atehses tes 107

The Viceroy of Peru appoints also to 19 posts of Paymasters and
Treasurers, 12; 2 Collectors (Administradores) of the Indian taxes
(censos de los Indios) at Lima and Potosi; 2 Assayors and Weigh-
masters ; Protector of the Indians at Potosi; Juez de Cobranzas (In-
spector of Collections) for Chucuito; and Alcalde Mayor de Minas
Gra AVAY A sas) cic ue, cae, sete lake cGy octhaveii byte oh eveat aah eater ae ee 19

He appoints also to 25 posts as Administrators of Indian com-
munity property and woolen mills, and over 30 Protectors of the
Indians, all of whom have large salaries and emoluments........ 55

The President of the New Kingdom of Granada appoints an
Administrador (Collector) for Los Mitayos.

They make also ad interim appointments to temporarily vacant
posts filled by His Majesty’s nomination.

2059. The Viceroys of Peru appoint to 29 posts of Protectors and
Advocates of the Indians, not counting other protectorates of less
importance; the Circuit Court Districts in which they fall, are
indicated :

Circuit Court District of Lima:

Protector and Advocate of the Indians at Lima.
S of the Indians of Jauja Province.
oF Eo ae os “Ica Valley, and Juez de Agua (Water Inspector.)
Guamanga.
Huancavelica.
Chocloccocha and Castrovirreina.
Trujillo Valley.
Huanuco.
Cajamarca.
Chachapoyas.
Jaén de Bracamoros.
Cuzco.
- os “ Vilcabamba.
Arequipa.
Arica.
Piura.

784

SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Circuit Court District of the Charcas:

Protector of the Indians of Potosi.

“

“cc cay

Los Charcas.

“s “ Cochabamba.

— “ Misque.

Oruro.

Caravaya.

- “ Tarija and Chichas.
“ Chucuito.

“ “cc

“ce “ce

Circuit Court District of Quito:

Protector of the Indians of Riobamba.

“

“cc

“ Guayaquil.
*Toyas
* Puerto Viejo.

“ce

“ce

Circuit Court District of Lima:

Administrator

of Canas and Canchis.

the Pallasca woolen mill.
“ Tarma woolen mill.
Huari woolen mill.
Huaras woolen mill in Huailas.
Huamachuco.
Trujillo.
Chincha.
Canta Province.
Taraco and Saman.

“

“oe

Circuit Court District of the Charcas:

Collector of the Indians’ taxes at Potosi (Administrador de Censos).
Administrator of the Province of Los Chichas.

Sipesipe.

Chucuito.

Chuquiabo.

the Province of Los Carangas.
“ Misque Valley.

Santiago del Pago.

Circuit Court District of Quito:

Administrator of the woolen mills of Riobamba and Puruaes.

Sigchos, Pillaro and Patate.

Alausi.

the Chambo woolen mills.

Otavalo.

the Latacunga woolen mills.
Chimbo.

the Guayaquil cordage mill (jarcia.)

All those in the Quito Circuit Court District are woolen mill
administrators, and most of those in the Lima District, and those

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 785

in the Charcas District, administrators of the Indians’ community
property and income.

Table of the Six Books and Chapters of the Six Circuit Courts
in the Second Part. Pertaining to the District of the Secretariat of
Peru and the Spanish Main.

Book I, of the Panama Circuit Court district, contains 4 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the city of Panama and the Circuit Court located there.

Chapter 2. Continuing the description of the Panama Circuit Court District,
and in particular, of the city of Puerto Bello.

Chapter 3. Continuing the description of the Panama Circuit Court District,
and of some Spanish settlements established in its provinces.

Chapter 4. A description of the Provinces of Veragua and the cities estab-
lished there.

Book II, of the Circuit Court District of Santa Fé de Bogota in
the New Kingdom; it contains 30 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the city of Cartagena and its important features, and when that
country was discovered.

Chapter 2. Continuing the description of Cartagena.

Chapter 3. Of the rest of the State in the jurisdiction of the city of Carta-
gena, and the district of its Diocese.

Chapter 4. Of the city of Santa Marta and the district of its Diocese and
State.

Chapter 5. Continuing the description of the district under the jurisdiction
of Santa Marta, and the other cities established in its provinces.

Chapter 6. Of the city of Santa Fé de Bogota, its founding and its magnificence,
and of other features of these provinces.

Chapter 7. Continuing the distinctive features of Santa Fé and its district.

Chapter 8. Of other matters, pertaining to the district of the city of Tunja
and the city of Pamplona.

Chapter 9. Of other matters relating to the district of the city of Pamplona.

Chapter 10. Of the State of the city of Mérida and its district.

Chapter 11. Of the Provinces of Los Musos and Colimas, and of the emerald
mines there, and other remarkable things.

Chapter 12. Of the city of Trinidad de Los Musos, and the rich emerald
mines in its district, and the way they work them.

Chapter 13. Of the city of La Palma, and of other special features of the
district of its provinces and those of Trinidad, and of the variety of trees and
fruit to be found there.

Chapter 14. Of the variety of birds and animals found in these provinces and
regions of Los Colimas.

Chapter 15. Of the State of Antioquia and the cities contained in its district,
and other remarkable things.

Chapter 16. Continuing the description of the State of Antioquia, and the
customs of the savages.

Chapter 17. Of the abundance of livestock, fruit, and agricultural produce
in the district of this State.

Chapter 18. Of the city of Caceres and the rich gold mines in its district.

Si

786 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Chapter 19. Continuing the description of the Caceres district and the variety
of fruit, animals, and birds to be found there.

Chapter 20. Continuing the description of the previous theme.

Chapter 21. Of the city of Zaragoza, of its rich gold mines, and other features
of its district.

Chapter 22. Of the mines at the new settlement of Guamaco.

Chapter 23. Continuing the description of the new mines at Guamacd, and
other matters.

Chapter 24. Of the town of San JerOnimo del Monte and its rich gold mines.

Chapter 25. Of the city of Mariquita, otherwise called San Sebastian de la
Plata, on account of its rich silver mines.

Chapter 26. Of the city of Los Remedios, its rich mines and other features
of its district.

Chapter 27. Of other cities established and colonized in the district of the
Corregimiento of Mariquita, and of the measures taken there against Lope de
Aguirre.

Chapter 28. Of the cruelties perpetrated by the rebel Lope de Aguirre, and
the events leading up to his disastrous end and evil death.

Chapter 29. How the rebel’s army was broken up, thanks to the energy and
foresight of valiant Diego Garcia de Paredes.

Chapter 30. Of the city of Timana and its district.

Book III, of the Circuit Court district of San Francisco de Quito;
it contains 18 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the city of Popayan, capital of its State and Diocese.

Chapter 2. Of the city of Cartago and other provinces in the Popayan district.

Chapter 3. Of the city of Almaguer and other cities in the Popayan district.

Chapter 4. Continuing the description of the- Popayan district, and in par-
ticular, of Pasto and the sources of the great River Orinoco.

Chapter 5. Continuing the description of this country and the River Orinoco.

Chapter 6. Of the city of San Francisco del Quito and the special features
of its district.

Chapter 7. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Quito.

Chapter 8. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Quito and the prov-
inces of Los Quixos.

Chapter 9. Continuing the description of the previous theme.

Chapter 10. Of the city of Sevilla del Oro in Macas Province.

Chapter 11. Continuing the Quito Diocese district.

Chapter 12. Of the city of Santiago de Guayaquil and its district.

Chapter 13. Of the city of Puerto Viejo and its district.

Chapter 14. Continuing the preceding subject.

Chapter 15. Of the city of Cuenca and its provinces, and the rivers in its
district.

Chapter 16. Of the city of Loja and its provinces.

Chapter 17. Of the town and mines of San Antonio de Zaruma.

Chapter 18. Continuing the description of the Quito Circuit Court district,
and of the city of Zamora and the Zaguarzongo Provinces.

Book IV, of the Lima Circuit Court district ; it contains 95 chapters.

Chapter 1. Describing the offices and their compensation, in the district gov-
erned by the Viceroy of Peru.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—VAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 787

Chapter 2. Describing the King’s Highways of the Incas in the Kingdom
of Peru.

Chapter 3. Of the city of Trujillo and its provinces, and special features
of its Diocese.

Chapter 4. Of the Trujillo District and its provinces.

Chapter 5. Of the city of Pitra and its provinces.

Chapter 6. Of the town of Cajamarca and its district.

Chapter 7. Continuing the description of Cajamarca.

Chapter 8. Of the city of Chachapoyas, and features of its district.

Chapter 9. Describing the city of Chachapoyas.

Chapter 10. Of the city of Jaén de Bracamoros and its district.

Chapter 11. Of the expedition conduced by Gov. Pedro de Ursua down the
Rio de los Motilones, by order of Viceroy Marqués de Cafete.

Chapter 12. Continuing the description, and the exploration of the Rio
Maranon.

Chapter 13. Continuing the exploration of the Rio Maranon.

Chapter 14. Continuing the description of the Marafion, and the arbitrary
acts of Lope de Aguirre.

Chapter 15. Continuing the preceding theme, and the death of Don Fernando
de Guzman.

Chapter 16. Continuing the preceding theme, and other cruel acts.

Chapter 17. Of what the traitor did at La Margarita.

Chapter 18. Of the cruel acts perpetrated by the traitor at la Margarita.

Chapter 19. Of the valleys between the city of Santa to the city of Lima,
belonging in the district of the Archdiocese.

Chapter 20. Of the great city of Los Reyes, called Lima, and the district
of its Archdiocese.

Chapter 21. Continuing the description of the magnificence of this splendid
city.

Chapter 22. Continuing the description of the city of Lima and of the holy
Metropolitan Church.

Chapter 23. Continuing the description of Lima and of the splendid convents
it contains.

Chapter 24. Continuing the description of the splendid convents of this
mighty city.

Chapter 25. Continuing the description of the convents of nuns in the city
of Lima.

Chapter 26. Continuing the description of Lima, and of other remarkable
monuments enriching it.

Chapter 27. Continuing the description of the splendid hospitals of this
city, and of the famous university.

Chapter 28. Of the famous colleges in the city of Lima.

Chapter 29. Of the Holy Tribunal of the Inquisition.

Chapter 30. Of the manner in which the Holy Tribunal of the Inquisition in
Lima, Peru, held an auto-da-fé.

Chapter 31. Continuing the description of the auto-da-fé.

Chapter 32. Concluding the description of the auto-da-fé.

Chapter 33. Of the Port of Callao, suburb of the city of Lima.

Chapter 34. Continuing the description of the Port of Callao.

Chapter 35. Of the forts and castles at the Port of Callao, for its defense.

Chapter 36. Describing the district of the Archdiocese of Lima.

788 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Chapter 37. Of the famous valley and Province of Jauja.

Chapter 38. Of other provinces and valleys in the district of the Archdiocese
of Lima.

Chapter 39. Describing the productivity of the Pisco Valleys.

Chapter 4o. Of the Villacuri sinks, and others in the district.

Chapter 41. Of the town of Ica and its valleys rich in vineyards.

Chapter 42. Continuing the theme of the previous chapter.

Chapter 43. Of the city of Leén de Huanuco el Viejo.

Chapter 44. Of the founding of the city of Leén de Huanuco.

Chapter 45. Continuing with the features of Huanuco.

Chapter 46. Of the Province of Los Huamalies, and other provinces.

Chapter 47. Of the Province and valley of Huailas, and what it contains.

Chapter 48. Of the Diocese of Arequipa and other valleys and lomas along
the coast of its district.

Chapter 49. Of the town and valley of Camana, and valley of Los Majes.

Chapter 50. Describing the city of Arequipa and part of its district.

Chapter 51. Continuing the description of the district of this city.

Chapter 52. Another account of the great earthquake from the volcano of
Los Ubinas of Arequipa, and of the duration of the tempest.

Chapter 53. Continuing the account of what happened at the eruption of
the Los Ubinas volcano.

Chapter 54. Discussing the cause of earthquakes and their origin.

Chapter 55. Of the wide jurisdiction of the Diocese, and the need of another
bishop.

Chapter 56. Of the valleys of Sama, Tacna, Lluta, and other valleys.

Chapter 57. Of the city of San Marcos de Arica, its location, and other
special features of the country.

Chapter 58. Of the excellent mines in this district.

Chapter 59. Of the district of the Diocese of the city of Guamanga and the
provinces it comprises.

Chapter 60. Of the city of San Juan de la Vitoria de Guamanga, of its dis-
trict and marvelous climate, and the valleys lying round about it.

Chapter 61. Continuing the description of the Diocese.

Chapter 62. Of the city and mines of Castrovirreina, and other matters.

Chapter 63. Of the mercury mines of Huancavelica.

Chapter 64. Of the founding of Huancavelica.

Chapter 65. Treating the preceding theme, of the qualities of mercury.

Chapter 66. Continuing the preceding theme, of the qualities of mercury.

Chapter 67. Of the way in which the metal mercury is obtained and handled.

Chapter 68. Closing the brief description of the Diocese of Guamanga.

Chapter 69. Of the Andahuailas district, and other provinces in the Cuzco
Diocese.

Chapter 70. Continuing the description of the Cuzco Diocese.

Chapter 71. Of the imperial city of Cuzco, court city and capital of the King-
doms of Peru, and of its great monuments and its founding.

Chapter 72. Continuing the description of the imperial city of Cuzco.

Chapter 73. Continuing the preceding subject.

Chapter 74. Of the Sun Temple, its description and magnificence.

Chapter 75. Of the Cloister of the Moon and other planets, and the Garden
of the Sun.

Chapter 76. Of the Convent of the Virgins consecrated to the Sun.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—vAZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 789

Chapter 77. Of the Cuzco fortress, and its incredibly huge stone blocks.

Chapter 78. Of the three walls and three towers of Sacsahuaman.

Chapter 79. Of the monarchy of the Incas, their conquests and the dates
of their reigns.

Chapter 80. Of the conquests of Capac Yupangui, Inca Roca, and Yaguar
Huacac, and their administrations.

Chapter 81. Of Inca Viracocha, eighth king of Cuzco, his achievements and
of other kings succeeding him.

Chapter 82. Of Inca Yupangui, tenth king of Cuzco, and his successors.

Chapter 83. Of other conquests made by Tupac Inca.

Chapter 84. Of King Huayna Capac, his conquests and achievements.

Chapter 85. Of the conquests and the King’s Highways, achievements of
Huayna Capac.

Chapter 86. Of Huascar Inca, thirteenth king of Cuzco, and his death.

Chapter 87. Of the battle offered King Huascar by the troops of the rebel
Atahualpa, his imprisonment and death, with those of the royal blood.

Chapter 88. Recounting the imprisonment of Atahualpa, and other matters.

Chapter 89. Of some of the blood royal who escaped the cruel tyranny of
Atahualpa and his ministers.

Chapter 90. Continuing the story of those of the blood royal who escaped,
and in particular of Kings Huascar Inca and Mango Capac his brother, from
whom the Marquesa de Oropesa is descended.

Chapter 91. Of the imperial city of Cuzco and its magnificance and distinction
since it was taken over by the Spaniards.

Chapter 92. Continuing the description of the imperial city of Cuzco.

Chapter 93. Continuing the description of other provinces in this distrct.

Chapter 94. Of the Corregimiento of Cabana and Cabanilla, and other special
features.

Chapter 95. Continuing the description of the Provinces of El Collao belong-
ing to the district of Cuzco, and of the rich gold mines of Caravaya.

Book V, of the Charcas Circuit Court district; it contains 37
chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the Provinces of Chucuito and Paucarcolla, in the La Paz
Diocese District.

Chapter 2. Of Omasuyo Province and the holy relics preserved there.

Chapter 3. Of the city of Nuestra Sefora de La Paz, and other provinces in
its district.

Chapter 4. Of the Province of Paria in the Charcas Archdiocese district.

Chapter 5. Of the town of San Felipe de Austria, silver mines.

Chapter 6. Of the famous Cochabamba Valley and its district.

Chapter 7. Of the Province of Los Carangas, town of Porco and Pilaya and
Pispaya Valleys.

Chapter 8. Of the rich and famous Potosi mining range, and when it was
discovered.

Chapter 9. Continuing the story of the magnificent Potosi range, and of
the Indians working under forced labor for its exploitation.

Chapter 10. How they grind and treat the silver ore.

Chapter 11. Of other processes used to extract the silver from the ore dust,
and of the quantity of mercury used annually.

790 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 102

Chapter 12. Of the Inspectors and the administration of the range for the
exploitation of the mines, and the salaries received.

Chapter 13. Of the imperial town of Potosi and its splendor.

Chapter 14. Of the churches, convents, curacies, and hospitals in the imperial
town of Potosi.

Chapter 15. Of the destruction caused by a flood in the Potosi ore-reducing
mills in the year 1626.

Chapter 16. How part of the damage may be made good, not only in the
imperial town of Potosi but in all the monarchy.

Chapter 17. Of Chayanta Province, and other valleys, and the Provinces of
Amparaes.

Chapter 18. Of the Diocese of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, called La Barranca,
and its district.

Chapter 19. Continuing the description of Santa Cruz and of the famous valleys
within its district.

Chapter 20. Continuing the description of Santa Cruz: de la Sierra.

Chapter 21. Of the city of La Plata, and what it contains.

Chapter 22. Of Atacama Province and the remarkable things it contains.

Chapter 23. Of the Provinces of Los Lipes and Chichas.

Chapter 24. Of the district of the Diocese and State of the Provinces of
Tucuman.

Chapter 25. Of the city of San Miguel del Tucuman.

Chapter 26. Of the city of Santiago del Estero, and other matters in its
district.

Chapter 27. Of the cities of Rioja and Londres.

Chapter 28. Of the city of Cordoba in New Andalusia, Tucuman Province,
and what is contained in its district.

Chapter 29. Mileage by leagues of the Diocese and State of Tucuman.

Chapter 30. Of the district of the Diocese and State of Paraguay.

Chapter 31. Of the city of Asuncion, capital of the Diocese and State of
Paraguay.

Chapter 32. Continuing the account of the customs of the Guaycurt tribe,
and other features of the city’s district.

Chapter 33. Of other provinces and tribes, and of the maracayu, from which
they get the herb hierba santa, known as the Paraguay herb.

Chapter 34. Of the district of the Diocese and State of Buenos Ayres.

Chapter 35. Continuing the account of the district of the Diocese and State,
up to Santa Fé.

Chapter 36. Of the city of Santa Fé and its district.

Chapter 37. Of the city of Trinidad and port of Buenos Ayres.

Book VI, of the Chile Circuit Court district ; it contains 21 chapters.

Chapter 1. Of the description of the Kingdom of Chile, and the founding
of its cities.

Chapter 2. Of the city of Santiago de Chile, its founding, and other matters
in its district.

Chapter 3. Continuing the description of the Diocese of Santiago de Chile.

Chapter 4. Continuing the description of the preceding theme.

Chapter 5. Continuing the description of the district of the Diocese of Santiago
de Chile.

WHOLE VOL. THE WEST INDIES—V AZQUEZ DE ESPINOSA 791

Chapter 6. Of the city of La Concepcion, and other features of its district.

Chapter 7. Continuing the description of the Concepcién Diocese district.

Chapter 8. Describing the Kingdom of Chile, the provinces which were sub-
dued, and the cities established in them.

Chapter 9. Continuing the description of the Kingdom of Chile, and the
way in which the city La Imperial was founded, and other matters.

Chapter 10. Describing the territory of Villarica and its jurisdiction.

Chapter 11. Continuing the description of the territory and the city of
Valdivia.

Chapter 12. Describing the district in the jurisdiction of the city of Osorno.

Chapter 13. Of the district of the Kingdom of Chile, its harbors, and the
mileage in leagues along the coast.

Chapter 14. Continuing the description of the coast of the Kingdom of Chile,
and the harbors along it.

Chapter 15. Of the way in which Goy. Pedro de Valdivia explored and sub-
dued the Provinces of Chile, and how it was governed.

Chapter 16. Continuing the theme of the preceding chapter, and how Pedro
de Valdivia comported himself in exploring and pacifying the country.

Chapter 17. How Gov. Pedro de Valdivia explored and subdued many other
provinces, in which he established some cities.

Chapter 18. How Gov. Pedro de Valdivia sent Alderete to Spain and Ulloa
on a sea-exploring expedition, while he busied himself with mines; the begin-
ning of the rebellion, and his ruin.

Chapter 19. How, after burning down the Tucapel fort, Caupolican held a
council of his followers to decide what to do; and other episodes in the life
of Goy. Pedro de Valdivia.

Chapter 20. How the army of the Araucanians attacked Gov. Valdivia and
his men from many quarters on the Tucapel plain, and defeated and killed them.

Chapter 21. Of the death of Gov. Pedro de Valdivia, and what happened to
the 14 Spaniards who left Purén to join him.

FRANCISCO DE IRRUETA (IRRIETA?)

There follows on folio exciii of the MS a description of the
artillery in Morro Castle at Havana, but it merely repeats the infor-
mation already given in paragraph 2096.

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INDEX

In the absence of an explanatory commentary—a huge task, which I hope
may be undertaken in an edition of the Spanish text by someone younger and
wiser than I—the index assumes an unusual importance. Where a note seemed
necessary, it has been added; and much effort has been expended to aid scholars
investigating special subjects; cf., e.g., Franciscans, Indian community organi-
zations, prices, treatment of Indians and Negroes. Research for the modern
forms of proper names consumed many months—first in the Vatican Library
in the great Espasa cyclopedia, atlases, and other works, and later in New
York over the admirable millionth maps of Latin America generously con-
tributed by the American Geographical Society. Some 10 or 12 percent resisted
identification; a list of these was sent out to several specialists, among whom
Senorita Eulalia Guzman of the Mexican National Museum was especially
helpful.

In general, one who consults the index should search for a place under
its modern name, not that used, e.g., by Prescott. If the word is spelled dif-
ferently by the author, his form follows in parenthesis. “(Oaxaca (Guaxaca V)”
means that in the Vatican MS the city is invariably called “Guaxaca.’ In
case he varies, each form is given, so that the index constitutes a critical edi-
tion of the Spanish text for proper names. Moyobamba, e.g., is thus written
in paragraphs 1161, etc.; Moyabamba in 1091; Muyubamba in 1563; these
variants are valuable as indicating sources. With Mulalé, which is the modern
form, we have in the MS only Mulahalo and Mulajalo. Under “Aché” the
“also Achi’ means that the language is also called Achi today, as well as
Aché; “Deseada 1; Désirade” means that today the island is usually called
Désirade. Remember always that B and V, C soft, S and Z, G soft, H, J, and
X, QU and C, U and O, I and Y, are frequently interchanged; a Velasco may
lurk under Belasco, and vice versa. Uniformity is practically impossible to
attain; cross-references have frequently been added as a help. Where V (the
MS) uses circumflex and grave accents, I have kept them for picturesqueness ;
in modern Spanish only the acute has survived. The use of accents is so incon-
sequent anyway in Spain and the Spanish-American countries that my prac-
tice will doubtless offend some eyes, to say nothing of inevitable errors. Cor-
rections and suggestions will be gratefully received.

A Abisca (Havisca V), 1550, 1606

Abalicos (-ios V), 1086 ee ¥, Toes
Abancay, 1482, 1872, 1904, 2042; Ban- Ae Pob Nd10s, 2059

cay, 1310; v. Amancay e Pobres, 1697

, Rio de, 1549 Aburra, 1007, 1026, 1048

Abanderados, 2014 Aca Huanapuncu, 1531
Abasca, ropa de, 1455, 1459; de a Acaca Huaguana, Inca, 1534; Acagu-

Vasca? ana, 1531
Abba, 70 Acaceri, 1012
Abbacies, 830, 864 Acalaco (-cot V), 1311
Abibe, Sierras de, 1002 Acamapixtli, 300f.
Abipi, 979 Acambaro, Rio de, 491

793

794 INDEX

Acanejos (-ecos V), 167, 1090
Acapia, 1869; also Accapia
Acapixtla, 475
Acapulco, 375, 390, 464, 476, 532, 727,
767, 810, 845, 862
Hacart. .1331,) 1333) »1370lhs
1410, 1439, 1545, 1862; Acavi,
1315; £320, 1331
Acataduras, 1753
Acatepec (-peque V), 468, 480
Acatepeque (Guatemala), 599
Acatitlan, 525
Acatlan, 391, 397, 848
Acaxeses, 542
Acaxutla, 644, 841
Accha, 1875; Acha, 1869
Accountant, 1450, 1703
Acefias, 1654
Achamarca, 1304, 1861
Achambi, 1876
Achanquillo, 1861
Achaya, 1865
Aché (language), 91;
Achiomico, 683
Achiote, 162, 683
Achira (Canna edulis), 1782
Achitometl (-mel V), 398f.
Achocha, 1726
Achoroma, 1414
Acla, 898, 994; Aclla, 1543
Aclla Huaci, 1520
Acobamba, 1327
Acoma, 564
Aconcagua, 1940; Acolc-, 1930f.
Acopampa, 1368
Acora, 1312, 1619
Acoria, 1466
Acorns, 647, 1405
Acos, 1309, 1463, 1553, 1869
Acosta, Padre Joseph de (1539-1600),
57, 422, 1467, 1510, 1518
Acoste (on Mississippi River), 316
Acuapar (-pa V; tree), 986
Acuera (Fla.), 313
Acuerdo, Sala de, 1229
Acuespalatl (Aqu- V), 632
Acuiia, 1775, 1779
, Diego Palomeque de, 275
Pedro de, 790
Acus, 552
Adaptation, 37ff.; v. Climate
Adelantado, y. Commander
Adentro, Tierra, 106, 108, 830, 835
Adjutants, 1299
, Sergeant Major’s,
Surgeon Major’s,
Administracion, 1940
Administradores, 455, 1700, 1040ff.,
2046, 2058; cf. next items
de los Censos, 2048, 2059
de Mitayos, 946
de Obrajes, 1370

Acari:

also Achi

to

to
o

Administration, 240f., 252f., 301f., 462,
464f., 482, 521f., 538f. 548,
579, 639, 716f., 823ff., 862,
884, 910ff., 923, 931, 946, 949,
1062, -TI12, 1143) arT47; 1140;
1183, 1215, 1230, 1319, 1334,
1392, 1416, 1441, 1633, 1652,
1662, 1693, 1696f., 1702f., 1706,
1747, 1828, 1040ff., 2022ff.,
2048, 20 orf,
Nearer 368, 1364f., 1390, 1413,
1416, 1422, 1420, 1666, 1746,
1810, 1832ff., 1946, 20221f.,
2057ff.; v. Ecclesiastical
Judicial, 1703; v. Judges, Juez
Administrator General, 1305
, Indian, 1633, 2058
Adobe, 1159, 1440
Adoratorio, 1477
Afocoso, 1154
Africa, 17, 30, 58
Afterbirth, 1724
Agalgado, 990, 1339; from galgo? ap-
parently “greyhoundlike, slen-
der, tall.”
Agalteca (-ega V), 713
Age, Indians’, 339
Agitipoche, 180
Agoreros, v. Soothsayers, Sorcerers,
Wizards
Agotepeque, 474
Agreda, 1078, 1053, 18909
Agriculture, 1446, 1536f., 1727
Aguacate (Persea persea), 100, 228,
I0I5, 1566, 1726; Alligator
pear, Palta (q.v.)
Aguado, Andrés, 1670
Aguarico, Rio, 1085
Aguas Santas, Nuestra Sefora de, 100
Aguilar, Luis Garabito de, 113
Aguilillas de oro (eagle-shaped gold
ornaments): (Costa Rica),
756; (Marafion), 1202
Aguirre, Francisco de, 1919
, lope de, 126th, 26rr,5
970, 1o51ff., 1198ff.
Gen. Ordonio de, 1415
Ahuachapan (Aguachapa V), 645
Ahuatlan (Agu- V), 392, 840
Aigrettes, 161, 1791, 1819
Ais, 310
Ajaguas, 168, 175; Ajagnas?
Aji (pepper), 1273, 1355, 1409, 1412,
1682, 1726
Alabaster, 1474
Alangasi (-azi V), 1571
Alanje, v. Aljanje
Alausi, 1127, 2059
Albérchigo (duracine peach), 1782
Albitez (-tes V), Diego de (b. 1511),
8o1
Albiz, Diego de, 1671

268, 277,

INDEX

Alburquerque, Capt. Maj. Jerénimo
(Ger- V) de, 218, 223
Alcabala (sales or other excise tax),
1440
Alcaide (Warden, Sheriff), Holy Of-
fice, 1289
, Prison, 1697
Alcala, San Pedro de (Ecuador),
1107, 1900
de Henares (Spain), 527, 1593
Alcalde (chief judicial and adminis-
trative officer in _ villages,
towns, and municipal dis-
tricts), 156, 630, 1184, 1214,
1220, 1232, 1662, I701
de Aguas (Water Commis-
sioner ), 1232, 1703
de la Ciudad (City Magistrate),
1702f., 1706
de Corte (Judge of the High
Municipal Court), 433, 608,
825ff., 888, 1696, 1703, 2022ff.
del Crimen (Criminal Magis-
trate), 1229, 1288
de (la Santa) Hermandad (Di-
rector in a Confraternity),
1232, 1441, 1662, 1703
, Indian (Indian responsible for
order in Indian villages), 726,
957, 1184, 1457
Mayor (City Mayor and Chief
Justice; the office was called
Alcaldia Mayor. In general
the Corregidor (q.v.) exer-
cised these functions in the
more important cities and dis-
tricts; Mexico City, e.g., was
governed by a Corregidor,
and Tlaxcala by an Alcalde
Mayor; Lima, however, by
the Alcaldes appointed by the
City Council (1233)), 108,
223, 367, 464, 823ff., 1449,
1613, 1650, 1746
Mayor de Minas (chief judicial
and administrative officer in
mining camps and ranges),
1613, 1659, 1746, 2032, 2030f.,
2046ff., 2057f.
Ordinario (local judicial and ad-
ministrative officer), 630,
1232, 1662, 1703
del Santo Officio (Inquisition
official), 1288
Alcaldia Perpetua (life wardenship),
324
Alcamari (Aymara word), 1738
Alcances (balance still due, deficit),
2017
Alcantara, Francisco Martin de, 1262
Alcaparrosa (-oza V), 629; v. Cop-
peras

795

Alcocalla (and Allo-, V), 1313; Chall-
colla?

Alcohol (Alcojol V) (galena), 1448

Aldana, Lorenzo de, 1073, 1080

Alderete, Jeronimo (Ger- V) de,
1995f.

Aneecar Geodon 432, 462, 920,
1232, 1662, 1702f., 1706, 1865

Alders, 1458, 1714

Alecio, Mateo Pérez de, 1244

Alfalfa, 1294, 1351, 1387
Alfaro, Don Francisco de, 1680, 1693,
1804
, San Francisco de, 1690, 1693
Sebastian Diaz de, 273
Alférez (Ensign, standard-bearer in
ee and cavalry), 1299,

Mees (Chief Ensign of local mi-

litia; the grade was called
Alferazgo Mayor), 432,

1702f., 1706
Real (bearer of the royal ensign,
with power to lead in absence
of the commander), 1441; the
grade, Alferazgo Real, 1232
Mogrovejo, Archbishop To-
ribio (St. Toribio), 1236,
1265, 1280, 1929
Algarrobal, 1758
Algarrobo (tree, Prosopis juliflora;
the bean is algarroba), 1171,
1351, 1359, 171 4ff., 1720, 1749,
1774, 1783, 1819
Algiers, 168
Alguacil (Constable, judicial officer
enforcing decisions ; often -sil,
Va) en 720% "862, 1184, 1441, 1588,
1703, 2048
de Corte, 1697
Mayor (honorific title, like Lord
High Constable), 920, 923,
1214, 1284, 1286ff., 1441, 1662,
1706
Mayor de Corte (do., at the capi-
tal), 403, 1607, 1702f.
Mayor del Santo Officio (do., for
the Inquisition), 1286
Aljanje (-nge V), Santiago de, 904,

1695
Alkali, 1351; v. Saltpeter
Allanca (Hayanca V), 1574; cf. Al-
lauca
Allauca-Guari, 1839; Allanca?
Allauca-Pincos, 1839
Allca, 1486
Alligator pear, v. Aguacate, Palta
Alligators, 472, 629, 744, 890, 993, 1021,

Alfonso

1033, DIEZ, 23,0 01S5 pF 170;
1416

Allotment of Indians, v. Encomienda,
Repartimiento

Alloy, 1656

796

Almagro, Commander Diego de, I110,
II2I, 1154, 1363, 1374, 1475,
1483, 1480, 1537, 1592, 1014,
1918
, Juan Gomez de, 2010
Almaguer, 1076, 1100, 1899, 2045
Almaraz y Sosa, Mencia de, 1260
Almeida, Gil Lopez de, 111
, Pedro Enriquez de, III

Almendariz, Miguel Diaz de, 973;
-arez, 937, 958
Almendras Holguin, Martin de, 1678

Almeria, Nueva. (Mexico), 366

, Rio, 371
Almonds, 983, 1043, 1193
Almontes, Los (Arequipa), 1304
Alms, 1453; v. Ecclesiastical income
Almud, 1418; =Celemin, q.v.
Aloag (Aloa V), 1571, 1876
Aloasi, 1108, 1571
Alonso, Pedro, 1052; v. Galeas

, Rodrigo, 996
Alonso de la Bandera, Juan, 1200, 1202,
1206ff.

Alonso de Lara, Juan, 358
Alota, 1745, 1759
Alpargatas (sandals), 393, 1206, 1772
Alpasondor, 1872
Altamira, Condes de, 1850

Altamirano, Capt., 1191, I197ff.
Altars, 976

Altos, Los, 1800

Alum, 467f., 620, 1411f., 1414

Alvarado, Alonso de, 1190, 1483
, Estéban de, 669
Gomez de, 1361
Gonzalo de, 606
Luis de Moscoso, 306
Commander Pedro de, 430, 570,
581, 602, 604, 654, ‘692, IIIO,
1544, 1610
Rio de, 366, 371, 390, 514
Alvarez, Juan, 456.
de Gamboa, Juan, 356
Holguin, Pedro, 1475, 1689, 1748
Ama la nariz, 1494
Amacuro, 188, 190, 204
Amaibas (Orinoco Indians), 174
Amalfi (Malfa V), 32
Amancay, 1482ff., 1548, 1605, 1904;
native name of Abancay, q.v.
Rio de, 1482, 1485, 1544
Amapala, 665, 705
Amaru Cancha, 1506, 1509, 1600
Amatico (-tique V), 660, 698
Amatitlan (-itan V), San Juan de,
628, 759
Amautas, 1504, 1551
Amaxaquec, 525
Amaybamba, 1871
Amazon, River, 165, 212, 214, 222f.;
v. Maranon

Ambana, 1629, 1885

INDEX

Ambar, 1327, 1843

Ambassador, 1169, 1183

Ambato; Ha-, 1110; -atu, 1571

Ambayba (Ambaiba peltata), 1799

Amber, Ambergris, 322, 594, 778, 782

Ambir (tobacco essence), 246

Ambo, 1366

Amecameca (Meca- V), 466

Amejes (N. Mex.), 563

America (name), 24

Amilpas, Las, 475, 482, 831, 837, 862

Amole (Sapindus saponaria), 684

Amoquinto, 1409

Amor del agua, al, 1351

Amosqueadores, 1200

Amotape (Mo-V), 1851

Ampa, 1865; Hampay ?

Amparaes 1554, 1677, 1744, 1746;
(Charcas), 2043; (La Plata),
1891; (Paucartambo), 1870

Ampuero, Martin de, 1595

Ampues, Juan de, 270

Amula, 855

Anacos, 952

Anaga (Naga V), Point, 1

Anan-, v. Hanan-

Ananas (pineapple), 1799

Anansaya, Caquiaviri, 1881

Anaquito (Afa- V), 10094

Anascolque, Dona Juana, 1580, 1591

Anasquiguas, 1861

Anatuia (skunk), 1740

Afiaya, Juan Manuel de, 1308

Ancara, 1556; Angaraes?

Anchors, 2019

Anchovetas (sardines), 1204, 1332,
1420

Ancoallo, 1480f.; -ayllo, 1866

Ancocagua, 1609

Ancon, El, 1323

Ancona, Augustin de, 263

Ancoraymes, Los, 1884; -aynes, 1621

Ancoyo, 1876

Ancud, 1984

Andaguas, 1861

Andahuailas (Andaguaylas V), 1305,

1310, 1478ff., 1481ff., 1540,
1604f., 1878, 2042; -abaylas,
1479, 1878
Andalucia, Nueva, 131, 288, 806, 835
Andaluz, Pedro Ramirez, 1250
Andamarca, 1887; -cas 1304, 1436,

1454, 1643, 1853
Andamayo, 1325
Andaray, 1861
Andasbamba, 1162
Andax, 1308, 1843; Andajes?
Andén, 1402f.
Andes, 1152f., 1338, 1425, 1433, 1478,
1604f., 1638, 1640, 1870, 2031;
Antis, 1596
Highway, 1499
, Los (province), 1605f., 2038

INDEX

Andesuio, 1491; cf. Antisuyo
Andrada, Luis de, 741
, Pedro de, 1671
Tomas de, 1031
Andrés (Chilean Indian), 2005
Anduras 214; Brazilian tribe; cf. An-
dorinhas
(rural communities incorpo-
rated with a village or town),
525, 620, 1863, 1872
Aneyungas (also Haney- V), 1838
Angalican, 1993
Anganamon, 1994
Angara, 1866
Angaraes, Los, 1854, 1856
Angasmayu, Rio, 1082
Angelina, Dona (daughter of Ata-
hualpa), 1595
Angol, 1957, 1981, 1093, 1997, 2009
Angola, 916, 1828
Angostura v. Santo Tomé
Angoyaco, 1463
Angulo, Bartolomé Fernandez de, 1670
Anian, 27, 34, 39, 55
Anibales, 167
Anilco, 307, 320f.
Animals, 36ff., 584ff., 500, 648, 661,
‘ gooff., 1018, 1771
Animas, Las (Mexico), 404
Anime (canime oil, Garcinia acumi-
nata), 286, 505, 652, 956, 1038
Anna, 70
Huacha Cuyac, 70
a a BAT S505 5Ols: O71,

Anejos

3

Anona (custard-apple, Anona reticu-
lata), 231

Anserma (Anze- V), Santa Ana de,
1073, 1086

Anta, v. Danta

Antamachay, Arapa, 1879

Ant bears, 648, 990, 1741, 1774, 1793

Antelope, 314, 551, 554, 560f., 564, 566

Antequera (Oaxaca), 504, 508, 813

Antidotes, 246, 254, 1791

Antigua, Nuestra Senora del, 808f.,
994

del Guamaco, 1031

Antimony, 1448

Antioquia (Colombia), 60, 84f., 946,
940f., 904ff., 998, 1003, 1048,
1896, 2029, 2035f.

Antiquities, v. Inca, Maya

Antis, Los (Andes), 1506

Antisana, 1086

Antisuyo (-uio V), 1499; Andesuio,

1491
Ants, 187
Ao, v. Cao

Aoyama (gourd), 1014

Apa y Carapa, San Juan de, 271
Apalache, 313f.

Apalaques, 1086

797

Apalear, 1816

Apamatas, 1787

Apaneca, 645

Aparcelada (Amazon island), 218
Aparicio, Brother, 372
Apartamiento, v. Royal Apartments
Apaseo, 491

Apasson, 626

Apastepeque, 659

Apata, 1325, 1338

Apichiqui, 1577

Apolito (= Manitou; N. Mex.), 560
Apostles, 361, 1195, 1600, 1622
Apostoles, Los (Chile), 1985
Apothecary, 1270, 2013

Apple, 286, 635

Appraiser, 1697

Apricots, 1155
Aprovechamiento, 1320

Apu Mayta, 1552

, Guacapille, 1589
Apurimac, Rio de, 1484f.,

_ 1543f., 1549, 1583, 1605
Apurisarare, Rio, I
Aqueducts, 463
Arabates, 1891; Arabete?
Arabaya, 1872
Aracanasa, IQI
Aracoraima, 178ff.

Aragua, 245

Aramaya, I8I

Arancay, 1326, 1838
Aranjuez, Esparza y, 754

(Spain), 1526, 1607
Arapa Antamachay, 1879
Arapito, 1875
Araraup, Rio, 223
Araucanians, I955, 1999, 2005 ff.
Arauco, 1940f., 1954, 1981,

1990ff., 2005., 2012
Aravico, v. Harauec
Araya, Point, 134, 137ff., 245

, Santiago de, 130f.

Arce, Fray Pedro, 883

Archbishop’s salary, 1709; v. Eccle-
siastical income

Archdean, 868ff., 2052ff.

Archdioceses, 864ff.

Archidona (Ecuador), 1107, 1900

Architecture, v. Inca, Indian, Maya

, Spanish, 1220ff.

Arecibo (Aresiuo V), 118, 804

Arejmendi, Pedro de, 493; Arejo-
mendi?

Arena azul, 319

Arequipa, 760, II154, 1301, 1304, 1315,
IZI8h.) 133%, 137oft., 1387i.,
1404, 1406, I1410ff., 1416, 1422,
1428, 1454, 1543, 1552, 1600,
1604, 1682, 1859, 1894, 1905,
2031, 2043, 2050, 2053, 2059;
Arri-, 1315

, Chimba de, 1864

1488f.,

1992,

798

Aresti, Cristobal de, 2056 °
Arévalo (-ebalo V), 772, 821, 861
Arias, Maria, 1593
, Pedro, 1054
Arias de Avila, Gaspar, 654
, Pedro, 712, 733ff., 886, 891, 808,

995

Arias Ugarte, Fernando, 1237, 2052

Arica, San Marcos de, 760, 1147, 1320,
1332, 1343, 1300, 1396, 1404,
1406, I410, 1413ff., 1473, 1632,
1638, 1665, 1747, 1756, 1863,
1905, 2032, 2039, 2059

Aricana, 1087

Arimocoa, 1204

Arimota, 525

Aristotle, 1013

Ark, 14ff.

Arma, 994, 1008

, La Concepcion de, 1459
Santiago de, 1074, 1806

Armadillo, 529, 585, 991, 1694, 1771

Armado (fish; gar?), 1729, 1752

Armorer, 2016

Armory, 915

Army chaplaincies, 1191, 2018

Army salaries, 2012ff.

Arnedo (Chancay), 1323, 1834, I90I,
2041

Arnotto (tree producing annatto, Bixa
orellana), 683

Arones Andaray, 1861

Arpilleras (burlap), 2021

Arque, 1642

Arracacha (parsniplike root, Arra-
cacta esculenta): Ara-, 1014;
Ra-, 485

Arraez (Master of a boat), 2015

Arraudi, Martin Pérez de, 1208

Arrecifes, Los, 1831

Arrendamiento (lease, farming out),

1319

Arria (cost of mules and drivers),
2018

Arrianocosies, 1812

Arrieros (muleteers),
1705, 1767

Arrinchel, 341

Arroba=25 lbs.; about 4 gallons;
625; cf. 588

Arrows, 1689, 1692, 1803, 1820f.

Arsareth, 52, 55

Arsidia, Estéban de, 1671

Art, v. Inca, Indian, Maya

Artemisia, 1725

Artificios (contraptions), 1614

Artillery, 420f., 1206ff., 1415,
v. Fortifications

Artisans, 1185, 1226, 1339, 1603, 1663,
1706, 1934

Ariacas; 05,170. 177i 20ll.,, 204,
206, 200, 213f., 242

Arutos (Indians), 175

1173, 1653,

1o22°

INDEX

Asanaques, 1886

Ascension (Ase- V), La (Caja-
marca), 1161; (Jauja), 1325

Ash Wednesday, 1437

Ashes, 1404

Asia, Tambo de, 1315

Asillo, 1530, 1605, 1613ff., 1865, 2042

Assayer, 1448, 1452, 1657, 1663, 2048,
2058

Assessor, 1697

Associate Justice, 1703

Astete de Ulloa, Bartolomé de, 1668,

1674
Astillero (Venezuela), 967
Astronomy, v. Indian
Asuncion, 1693, 1747, 1786,
1806, IQII
Ata, 1546
Atabales (kettledrums), 1284
Atabalipa (-liba V), 1092, 1182f., 1186
Atabillos, 1324, 1835
Atacama, 760, 1410, 1416, 1552, 1665,
1743f., 1746ff., 1759f., 1894,
1914, I919, 1930, 1987, 2043;
Atama, 1894

1701 ff.,

Ataco, 645
Atahualpa, 1570ff., 1583ff., 1586ff.,
1595; -gualpa, 1092, 1480,

_ 1506, 1535, 1537, 1585f.
Atajonas (gristmills), 1783
Atalaya, Santiago de la, 1896
Atalpaha (Fla.), 314
Atancama, 1874
Atatilulco, 862; v. Tlaltelolco
Atempa, 849
Atengo, 525
Atengonisquiaguala, 465; -go Mis-,
846; today Atengo Mizquia-
huala
Atico, 1315, 1545; Atico, 1383
Atienza (-ensa V), Inés de,
1208, 1213
Atiquipa, 1381, 1486, 1862; Ate- 1315
Atiquizaya (-isaya V), 658
Atitalaquia, 465, 846
Atitlan (-tan V), 633, 8590
, Santiago de 637
Atlatlahuca (-auca V) de Oaxaca,
511, 518; (Atat- V), 851
Atlatlahuca (-auca V) del Valle, 465;
-atauca, 846
Atlixco (-isco V), 387, 482, 862; v.
Carrion
Atoc (fox?), 1741
Atocha, 1397
Atonipa, 1162
Atotobilco, 480
Attorney (Circuit Court), 106, 884,
1696f., 1703, 2022ff.; (City),
1441, 1703
for the Poor, 1697
Atuatas, 167; -aras, 1090
Atun-, v. Hatun-

1001,

INDEX

Atuncana, 1593; Ha-, 1609; Hatun-
Cafiar?

Atuncolla (Hat- V), 1540, 1610, 1866

Atunjauja: Hatunxauxa, 1338; Atun-
jauxa, 1306

Atunsulla, 1549; cf. Utun-

Atzcapotzalco: Ascapuzalco, 399; Es-
capuzalco, 395, 480

Aucaes, Los, 1189

Aucallama (Aucayama V), 1323, 1834

Aucana; gloria aucana, i.e., libre, 1584

Aucara (Abcara V), 1436, 1548

Auche (De Soto Exp.), 321

Audiencia (Circuit Court, chief judi-
cial and administrative au-
thority), TOSi., 432i. S23it.,
1094, 1895, 2022ff.

Auditor, 1308, 2036

-General, 2012
Auguries, 1023

Augustinians, 295, 364, 373, 380, 387,
443, 468, 481, 480, 403, 408f.
504, 522, 527, 535, 537, 009,

613, 774, 877, 880, 883, 880,

917, 947, 953f., 959, 970,

1066,

1068, 1082, 1094, 1103, 1108,
TLLO; 119, TT27, 1130, 1154,
1160, 1166, 1170, 1180, 1250,
1291, 1300, 1333, 1353, 1364,
1390, 1402, 1420f., 1600, 1625,
1627, 1635, 1642, 1666, 1680,
1698, 1705, 1846, 1850, 1873,
1884, 1886, 1888, 1890, 1927,
1945, 2053

Auitlan, 855; also Autlan

Aullagas, 1633f., 1886

Auquire (Paria), 194
Aura (vulture), 1125, 1738
Auri (Peru), 1593
Austria, Juan de,
Auto-da-fé, 1283 ff.
Auzolt (Aztec prince), 402,
Avalos, 855
eGil Ramirez de, 1127
Avendatia, Martin de, 1154
Gamboa, Juan de, 1154, 1179
Aventureros (free lances), 1451
Avila (Ecuador), 1107, 1900
, Francisco de, 355
” Gaspar Arias de, 654
Gil Gonzalez de, 699, 712
Pedro Arias de, 712, 733ff., 886,
891, 808, 995
Avilés, Pedro Meléndez de, 308
Avis, Gabriel de, 263
Axayacatl (-aca V), 402, 407
Axayacatlzin (-cacin V), 403f.
Axes, I, 171, 178, 2018
Ayabaca, 1099, 1132, 1162,
-vaca, 1181, 1851
Ayacucho, v. Guamanga
Ayahuacac, 1564; -ca, 1566

1154
404

11771. 3

199

Ayala, 1445

, Juan Guerra de, 741
Ayamonte (Spain), 456
Ayapata, 1867
Ayapin, 550

Ayata, 1885

Ayaviri, 1540, 1866; -vire, 1311, 1610,
1612f., 1747; -rire, 1616

Ayayanta, 1714; Yayanta?

Ayire, 148

Aymara, 80, 1710, 1774

Aymaraes, 1325, 1382, 1386, 1454,
1485ff.. 1544, 1604f. 1874,
1880, 1884, 2042

Ayoayo, 1313; Hayohayo, 1631, 1882

Ayolas, Juan de, 305, 1704

Ayquile, 1679, 1683; -la, 1803

Ayquimo, 803

Ayutla, Rio de, 581

Azangaro (Asa- V), 1539, 1605, 1615,
1865, 2042

Azapa (Asa- V), 1416f.

Azcapotzalco (Ascapuzalco V), 390

Aziguane, I3II

Azogueros, 1673

Azta, 803; (liquor), 1219

Azuela (Asu- V), Rio, 1085

Azul (cobalt?), 102, 334; lapis lazuli?

Azumbre (half gallon), 180, 1446

B

Babel, Tower of, 18, 45, 801

Bacalar (Yucatan), 341, 357
Bacallaos, Punta de, 311

Back debts, 2019

Bacon, 478, 635, 1339, 1635, 1967
Bacucu (=jicama, Paraguay), 1799
Badajoz, Fernando de, 504

Baeza (Colombia), 1086 ; (Ecuador),

1106, 1900
Bagasa (Va- V) (tree, Bagassa sp.),
171

Bagrecillos (fish, Cauca), 1024

Bagres (fish), 491, 1460, 1720,
1785

Bagua, 1849; Bagua Grande?

Baguales, 1821, 1825

Bahama Channel, 5f., 203, 312

Baize, 2017

Bajareque, 663, 918, 1175, 1385 ; -raque,
1380

Balanzario (Weighmaster), 2048

Balboa, Vasco Nufiez de, 808, 9o4f.

Ballast, 1290

Ballena, Cape, 1984

Ballenatos (young whales), 1420

Ballesteros, Pedro, 1671f.

Balm-gentle, 1725

Balsa, Juan, 1590

Balsam, 104, 5890, 652f.; 924

Balsas, Camino de Las, 1190

) AS; LLSO

1752,

Rio de Los, 1189; (Valsos V),

1187; Las, 1188, 1525

Bamboo (cafia), 183, 728, 768, 1008,
1125, 1385f., 1435

Banana, 225, 1799

Bandan, 798

Bandera, Juan Alonso de la,
1202, 1206ff.

Bafios, Los (Peru), 1326

Banquilin (fruit, Phyllanthus acidissi-
mus), 785

Baptism, 406, 1588, 1592, 1594, 1597,
1804

Baptismum flaminis, 406

Baracaldo (Va- V; Spain), 266

Baracoa, 290, 292, 808

Barba, Moyos de, 1891

Barbacoa, 248, 281, 1008; Las Bar-
bacoas, 280f., 1121

Barbarossa, Frederick, 29

Barbasco (Jacquinia armillaris), 284

Barber, 1700

Barbo y Enivera, Domingo de, 142ff.

Barbudo, 135

Barbudos (kingfish?), 1024

Barco, 2015f., 2019

Barinas (Va- V), 278, 972, 1896

Barley, 1936

Barquisimeto, 276f., 970, 1055ff.; Vari-
qui-, 8090

Barragan, Jeronimo (Ge- V) Ferron,

1200,

809

Barranca (bluff), alta, 1757

, a CRerti); 925--122n1r, 1202)
1307, 1316, 1323, 1550f., 1834
San Lorenzo de la, I910

Barretero (crowbar-man), 1636

Barrio (Peru), 1327

Barrios, Juan de, 1307, 1459

Barros, Dona Maria de, 917

Barroso, Pedro, 1362

Barter, I, 757, 768

Bart, 928

Basil, sweet, 1725

Baskets, 175, 1606

Basques, 1208, 1210

Bastard (hawk), 1020; (duck), 1020

Bastida (Jamaica), 334

Bastidas, Rodrigo de, 908, 931

Batangas, 772, 861

Batatan (Guiana), 220

Bateas, 715, 1720

Bathing, 621, 650

Baths, 463, 624, 660; 1063; 17723) ‘Vv:
Hot springs

Bayamo, 290, 292; Va-, 808; cf. Va-

amo

Bayeta (light thin cloth), 2017

Baypi (tapioca bread porridge), 1815

Beadle, 1277, 2052

Beads (chaquira), 1829

Beans, 1007

Bears, 1741

INDEX

Beatriz, Dona, Totora de, 1893
Beauty, natural, 1486
, personal, 1521
Becerril de Campos, 938
Bedouin (Alarbes), 1064
Bedspreads (sobrecamas), 1769, 1772,
1778, 1819
Beef, 625, 726
Bees, 203, 210, 285, 1690, 1734ff., 1774,
1948
Bejarano, Luis Sanchez, 1672
Bejucos (rattans), 729, 1478
Bejuquillo (snakeweed) (Ve-V), 254
Belalcazar, Commander Sebastian de,
(1495-1551) 1041, 1043, 1065,
1068ff., 1075, 1092, I110, 1118;
Benal- 1071
Belasco, v. Velasco
Belén, 217ff., 221
Beliches (Indians), 1934f.
Bells, 1234
Beltran, Fray Bernardino, 559
, Juan, 1968f.
San Luis, 929
Benedictines, 450, 535, 882, 1243, 1287,
2056
Beneficio de la rropa (benefit of the
cloth?), 2021
Benitez, Alonso, 1670f.
Benzoin, 246, 286, 652
Bequests, 1708
Berastegui (Verasatigui V), Pedro
de, 1670
Berbice (Berbis V), Rio, 204
Berenguela, 1343, 1415, 1637,
1745f., 1906
Bergantin (Ve- V) (Venezuela), 245
Bermejo, Juan, 735
, Rio, 1689, 1601, 1786,
178of.
Bermuda, 6, 312
Bernardo de Quirés, Gutierre, 368,
873
Berrio, Antonio de, 135, 141f., 154
, Fernando de, 165, 168
Berros, Los (Peru), 1414
Beryls, 979
Besugos (red porgy?), 1204
Beverages, Indian, 99, 171, 180, 184f.,
203, 230, 393, 486, 7771f.,
1218ff.,. 1665, 1715, 1778,
1802f., 1819, 1958
Bezoar, 50, 125, 469, 472, 507, 645, 662,
IIG7, 1458, 1721, 1785
Bilimbin (fruit, Averrhoa bilimbt),

1642,

17730

795

Billiva, Punta de, 1983

Biobio, Rio, 1950ff., 1954, 2001, 2016,
2019

Birds, 151, 161, 244, 422, 587, 987ff.,
1020f., 1023, 1117, 1791

Biscuit, 1165, 1160

INDEX

Bishop’s income, v. Ecclesiastical in-
come

Blacksmiths, 1934, 2016

Blanco, Cape (Brazil), 28, 58

, Rio, 592

Blancos Indios (white Indians), 1190

Blankets, 1778f., 1783f., 1934

Blizzard, 19017

Blondus (Flavio Biondo, Italian anti-
quarian, 1388-1463), 32

Bloodstones, 1755

Blowpipes, 1339

Boano, 803

Boats, 768, 779, 1117, 1199

Bobadilla, Francisco de, 105

Bobo (mullet, Joturus pilchardi?),

483
Boca del Rio, v. Xicalango
Bocachico (fish, Cauca), 1024
Bocanegra, Bernardino Pacheco de
Cordoba y, 440
, Fernando Pérez de Cordoba y,
446, 557
Francisca de, 1797
Francisca de la Cueva y, 414f.
Rio de (Peru), 1208
Bocavaya Quispillan, 1864
Bogota (Indian chief), 942
, Santa Fé de, 888, 923, 925, 942ff.,
1896, 2023, 2029, 2035f., 2046,
2054, 2057
Bohio (cabin), 1207
Bohorquez, Fray Juan de, 878
Bolas, 1803, 1830
Bole, Armenian, 640
Bomb6én, 1324, 1363, 1555; Bombon,
1338
Bone implements, 1184
Books, 487, 1452
Boots, 1087
Borage, 1725
Borburata (La Burb- V), 126, 276,
970, 1051, 1053, 1216; Barba-,

284
Boriquén (Borri- V) (Puerto Rico),

114
Borja (Vo- V), San Juan de (Co-
lombia), 1896
Borobia (-ovia V), 442
Borracha, La, 134, 245
Borracheras (drinking bouts),
1210f., 1802f., 2007, 2010
Bosa, 948, 2046
, Rio de, 945
Botiquines (boats), 1117
Bovedo, Miguel, 1200f.
Bows, v. Arrows
Bowstring, 1802
Boys: mozos, muchachos; for tribute
purposes, exempt up to I7
years old
Bracamoros (Indians), 1850
, Jaén de, v. Jaén

52

185,

Sol

Bravo de Molina, Pedro, 1055, 1057,
1061
depth measure=2 _ varas,

13 meters, 65.7 in.

Brazil, 28, 57f., 220, 1283, 1339, 1693,
1810f., 1828; v. Belén, Mara-
hon

, His Majesty of, 218

Brazilwood, 166

Bread, 99, 119, 183, 236, 378, 777, 1422,

Braza:

1690, 1778
Brevas (early figs), 162
Brick, 1655

Bridge, covered, 1192
, rope, I110, 1187, 1478
Bridges, 943, 1218, 1374, 1390, 1463,

1483, 1543f., 1547f. 1549,
1608, 1620, 1733
Brigantine (2-masted sailing ship),

307, 428{., 1207f., 1212
Buaques (Indians), 1086
Bucarica, 964
Buckthorn, 1493
Budales (ovens), 184
Budget, Chilean, 2o11ff.
Buena Esperanza (Chile), 1952, 2014,
2018
, San Francisco de (Peru), 1174
Buena Ventura, 803, 888, 1068, 1008f.
Buenavista, Santiago de, 1613
Buendia, Jerénimo Maldonado de,

1709
Bueno, Carumas de, 1860
, Rio, 1983
Buenos Ayres (so V), 1147, 1283,
1301, 1665, 1746f., 1765, 1780,
1818, 1821, 1823, 1828, 1908,
1932, 2032, 2039, 2056
Buffalo, 39, 546, 556, 562, 568
Buga, Guadalajara de, 106of.
Buglers, 2014
Major, 2014
Bulacan (-cau V), 772, 861
Buldibuchioprax, 1848
Buldibuyo (-hio V), 1162
Bulls, 1809
Bulrushes, 1755
Bufuelos (fritters), 1016
Burgos, Juan de, 1780
Burial rites, v. Indians
Buried treasure, 1528
Buritica, 1004f.
Bustamante, Jeronimo de, 1780
Bustinza, Martin de, 1589
Buzzards, 987, 1125, 1395
, white, 1125

¢€

Cabala, Juan de, 403
Caballero, Diego, 451
Caballos (Cavalla V) (Peru), 1333,
1360
, Puerto, 608

802

Cabana y Cabanilla, 1605, 1610, 1747,
1859, 1866, 2042
Cabafias, Juan de, 1212
Cabbages, 260, 591, 1725
Cabeceras de partidos (county seats),
501; Cabezas de p., 481
Cabeza de Vaca, Alvaro Nijfiez, 305,
320, 546, 552, 560
, Francisco, 1671
Cabezas (in ore mills), 1654, 1672f.
, Alonso, 1670
Cabinas, 1869
Cabiregua, 525
Cabo (regimental chief), 2012
de escuadra (squadron
2014
Cabra, Cerro de, 669
Cabrera, La, 1959
, Alonso de, 1804f.
Amador de, 1466
Francisco de, 1156
Pedro de, 1784
Pedro Nunez de, 1670
Cabuyas (ropes), 962
Cacahuasi (-guaci V), 1307, 1832
Cacalghén (-chem V), 352
Cacao, 148, 256, 272, 581, 64Iff., 668,
748, I117
beans (currency), 461, 726
Cacara, San Pedro de, 1459
Cacas, San Pedro de, 1366
Caceres (Colombia), 84, 1003, 1000ff.,
1021, 1028, 1896; (Spain),
IOII
, Nuevo, 780, 821, 834, 867, 883
Capt. Alonso de, 345, 692
Juan Cano de, 409
Miguel Serrano de, 1210
Cacha, I31I, 1553, 1609, 1868
Cachepais (fruit), 986
Cachica, 1303
Cachicamo (Tamanaca word for ar-
madillo), 160
Cachimayo (-yu V),-Rio de, 1729,
E731; 1733
Cachiquel, 92
Cachona, 1879
Cachuelo (fish), 1729
Cachupines (greenhorns), 374, 456

chief),

Caciques (chiefs; Carib word),
1450ff., 1450f., 1498, 1546,
1837ff., 1848

, salaries of, 1833ff., 2050
Cacoculco, 410
Cacumapicachuri, 1890
Cadiz, 1, 58
Caeque (tree, Colombia), 984
Cafana, 319
Cagayan, 772, 780, 861
Caguy (nut; cf. Tagalog cahuy), 1015
Cahuaya (Cagu- V), Rio, 325
Caimito (Caym- V) (Pouteria cai-

mito), 986, 1017

INDEX

Caina (Cayna V), 1327, 1840

Cairan, 1366

Caite (Brazil), 219

Caiza (Caysa V), 1890

Caja Real, v. Royal Treasury

Sieh ea Vi), 1161s 180!
I

5
Cajacay (Caha- V), 1327
Cajamarca (Caxa- V), too2, 116;
1160, 1178, w182ft:, 13278,
1506, 1556, 1563, 1585f., 1850,
1902, 2031, 2038, 2059; Caxa-
malca, 1333
Cajamarquilla (Caxa- V), 1162, 1160,
1189, 1304, 1563, 1848, 2041
Cajapucara (Caxa- V), 1875
Cajas (Caxas V): Province, 1564;
cliffs, 1650
de Espinosa,
Vi), Lore
Cajatambo (Caxa- V), 1218; 1222;
1321, 1327, 1334, 1365, 1369,
1376, 1556, 1843, 2041
Cajes (Caxes V), 911
Cala, 1323 Malar
Calabazas (-asas V) (gourds), 1363
, Rio de las, 529
Calacoto, 1078, 1632
Calafate (calker), 2015
Calamarea, 1302) +1313;
Calla-, 1854
Calamianes, 772, 861
Calango, 1308, 1323
Calatrava, Order of, 1595, 1611
Calbuco, 1949, 1983
Calca, 1871
Calchaqui, 1787
, Rio de la Quebrada de, 1769
Calchaquies, 1825
Calchines, 1822
Caldera, La, 753,-9075::
Castelblanco, Francisco, 217
, Pedro, 493
Calderén, Antonio, 1680
Calero, Pedro, 1708
Cali, 1068, 1809
Calicuchima, 1489; cf. Challcuchima
Caliente, Rio, 650
Calificadores (censors), 1288
California, 531ff.
Calker, 2015
Calkini (Calquini V), 351
Calla Cunchuy, 1534
Callanas, 378
Callanca, 1160, 1846;

Francisco (Caxas

1631, 1882;

-anga, 1593,
1870

Callao, 722, 1200ff., 1322, 1331, 1338,
IQOI, 1922, 1925, 2021

Callapa, 1632, 1881

Callaraca, 1872

Caloto, 1896

Caltaqui, 1780

Caluco, 641, 645, 654

INDEX

Calva, Rio de, 1099, 1131, 1329
Calvas, Los, 1099, I102, I131,
1564; Calva, 1566
Calves, 1126
Calvo, Andrés Diaz, 1030
Calzada (Calgada V) (paved high-
way), 1489
Camachicos (Indian officials), 1459
Camacho, 1851
Camagtiey, v. Puerto Principe
Camajuyas, 2, 147, 179, 108
Camana, 1315, 1384f., 1300, 1396, 1545,
1862, 1879, 1905, 2043
Camara, Alonso de la, 1780
, Maestro de la, de S.M., 531
de la Nueva Espafia y Pirtt, 462
Camarines, 772, 780, 861, 883
Camarones, v. Crayfish, Shrimps
, Rio de, 1422
Camata, 1630, 1639, 1885
Camayos, 1870
Camels, 40
Caminaca, 1865
Camis, 1822
Camomile, 1725
Camotes (sweet potatoes), 485, 082,
1782
Campeche, 337, 341, 344, 350, 356
Campo, Francisco del, 1964ff.
, Salvador de, 16609
Campuzano (Venezuela), 278
Cana, 1028
Canada (flume), 463
Canadulce (Indian chief), 247
Canhahua (-agua V) (kind of grain),
1759
Canapote, 909
Cafiares, Los, 1127, 1135; -ris, 1567
Canaria, 1436

1177,

Canaries, I
Canas, 1530f., 1609, 2042, 2059; Canas,
1822
y Canchis (-ches V), 1605, 1868,
2059

Cafiaverales, Los, 964

Cancer, Fray Luis, 308

Cancha, 1875

Canchas (taverns), 1665

Canchis (-ches V), 1539, 1609, 2042,
2059; v. Canas

Canco, 1872

Candelaria (ship), 111ff.

Candles, 1241, 1256, 1289, 1653

Candlesticks, 1625

Cane, 1386; v. Bamboo

Canete, 1202; 1315; 1320f., 1323, 1332,
1334, 1341f., 1557, 1836, 1901,
2041; Cafiitto, 1320; (Chile),
1955

, Marqués de, r191, 1198, 1228,

1272, 1279, 1332, 1336, 1341,
1440, 1450, 1453, 1594, 1596,
1695, I70I, 1964, 1980

803

Cangalla, 1311, 1539

Cangalle (-llo V), 1435

Cangrejos (crayfish), 636

Caniculario (beadle), 2052

Canime (oil), v. Anime

Canizares, Fray Luis, 881

Cannibals, 199f., 213f., 250, 405, 942,
973f., 1030, 1064, 1073, 1075,
1086, I1T2, 1128; 1202;/\ 1564,
1571, 1577, 1830

Cannon, 291, 206ff., 362, 805f., 913,
932, 935, 1290ff.; v. Fortifica-
tion

Cano, Jeronimo, 1671

Cano de Caceres, Juan, 409

Canoa, Punta de la (Colombia), 3,

909
Canoas, Las (Chile), 1975
, Juez de (Boat Inspector), 946,
2058
Canoero (canoeman), 127, 120f.
Canoes (Canoas), 127ff., 665
Canons, 868ff., 1238, 2052ff.
Canopies, 1769, 1772, 1819
Canta, 1222, 1306, 1308, 1321, 1324,
1334, 1337, 1556, 1835, 2041,
2059
Cantaranas, 1971
Cantin, Cape, I
Cantutpata, 1493; Pantitate?
Canvas, 715, 746f.
Cao (Ao V), La Magdalena (Mada-
V) de, 1160; cf. Santiago de
Cao (Chicama)
Capa y Espada, 1930
Capac Yupanqui (-ngui
1543ff., 1587, 1620
Capachica, 1616, 1883
Capacmarca, 1876
Capacopa, 1867
Capafi, 313
Capayjoros, 1693
Capellan Mayor, v. Chaplain Major
Capellanos de Coro, 2052
Capellanos de los Pobres, 455
Caperuza, Rio, 166
Capi, 1875
, Rio, 216
Capinota, 1642; Caponota, 1633
Capitan (fish), 945
de Campana, 2012
a Guerra, 835
Mayor, 217{., 221
Reformado, 2014
Capitana (ship), 111f.
Captain and Master, 2015
Captain General, 118, 2011f., 2027
, Militia, 2012
Captains, Cavalry, 2014
, Infantry, 1299, 2014
Capuchins, 217f.
Capuli (Rhamnus
484, 490

V), 1503,

humboldtianus),

804

Capure, Rio, 192
Capybaras, 1826
Caquetios (Caquétios V), 1
Caquiaviri, 1303; v. Caya-

(-re V) Anansaya, 1881

(-re V) Deunsaya, 1881
Caquiaxaxaguana, 1871
Caquingora, 1541, 1632, 1881
Caquixana, 1865
Caraballeda (-ava- V), 26rff.
Carabamba, 1161
Carabaya, v. Caravaya
Carabayllo: -avayllo, 1322; -availlo,

1316; Carvayllo, 1307, 1316

Carabuco, 1195, 1622, 1630, 1865, 1884,

1802
Carabullo, Rio de, 1208
Caraca (language), 94

Caracara (Bolivia), 1314, 1546, 1551,
1676, 1720, 1740, 1889
Caracas, 106, 13I, 154, 168, 247, 240,
251f., 255f., 261ff., 268, 270ff.,
276, 809, 830, 836, 970, 1051,
1735

Caracollo, 1302, 1313, 1542, 1626, 1631,
1882, 2044

y Sicasica, 1628, 1631

Caracoto, 1866; -cato, 1542, 1864

Caraga, 772, 861

Carahuco, 1865

Caramanta, 1075, 1896

Carampoma, 1326, 1337

Caranaca, 168, 287

Carangas, Los, r4t4> s52t.;) 1502,
1632, 1638, 1643ff., 1666,
1743ff., 1887, 2043, 2059

Carangue, I104, 1571, 1577, 1900
Carare, 946, 949
Cararo (Maranon), 1202
Caras; 162) 1377: (ct. Caruas
, Minas de, 1328
San Ildefonso (Ile- V) de, 1328
Caratupa (-topa V), 1876
Caravaya, 1539, 1613; -baya, 1867,
1904, 2042, 2048, 2059
Caraveliatico, 1862; Caraveli?
Caraviuchaque (opossum), 1740
Carcamo, Jeronimo de, 1156
Carcarafias, 1822
Cardona, Nicolas de 532, 534
, Tomas de, 531, 1675
Cardones (spiny bushes, Peru),
Carecaja, 1303
Carelmapu (-apo V), 1949, 1983
Carga (cartload, 3 or 4 fanegas), 314;

1304

(charge, commercial term),
2017

Carhuamayo: Carua-, 1327; Carua-
maju (-ayu?), 1366

Cari (Indian chief), 1546

Cariaco, Gulf of, 132; 1033. v. San

Felipe
Caribe (=cannibal), 1112

INDEX

Caribes, Rio de, 196

Cariblancos (wild hogs), 1018

Caribona, Rio de, 1030

Caribs, 2, 96, 147, 149, 170, 173, 178ff.,
L87ff., 108, 202; 2041., 245,
248, 250, 542, 938, 1211ff.

Caricari (Potosi), 1668, 1673ff.

Caries, 1720

Cariuri (tree, Colombia), 985

Carmelites, (132, 210713;°3738.5 3875403:
444ff., 479, 480, 490, 868, 917,

1268, 1271, 1295, 1396, 1781,
20558.
Carmenga, 1435, 1497, 1540
, Rio de, 1971

Carmine (carmin), 745
Carmona (Spain), 463
Carneceria, 1707
Carnero (mutton), 1937
Caro (tree), 237
de Torres, Francisco, 889
Caroa (Trinidad), 179, 276
Carob, v. Algarrobo
Carora, 277f., 809
Carpenters, 1706, 1934
Carranza, Pedro, 2056
Carrasco, Juan Garcia, 240f.
, Pedro Alonso, 1630
Carreno, Bartolomé, 30
Carreras (=crencha, parting), 1802
Carretas (carts), 1827, 1934
Carrillo, Hernando, 1670
Carrion de Atlixco (-isco V), 3091,
811, 848
Carrion de Velasco, 1323, 1901
Carros (carts), 1827
Carrots, 1725
Cartagena, 3f.,
9o8ff., 946, 948,
2029, 2035f.,
(Spain), 911
Cartago (Colombia), 1049, 1071, 1899;
(G@osta: Rica) 713s 710) 7555
817; (Ecuador), 1899
Carthaginians, 59, 1479
Garuas) 13772; ct. (Caras
, San Pedro de, 1328
Carumas, 1860
Cartquia, I0I2
Carvajal, ‘Capt. (278, 11096
, Fray Augustin de, 14209
Don Diego de, 1318f.,
Caray-, 1632
Francisco de, 1682
Carvallo, Francisco de, 219
Casa Vieja, 1955
Casabastran, 660, 859; Casava-, 633
Casabindo, 1787
Casana (also Cassa- V) (Inca palace),
1505ff., 1509
Casanare, Rio de, 152, 175, 190, 956
Casane, Rio, 166
Casas Blancas, 1480

10, 140, 256, 280, 714,
1282, 1897,
2049, 2054;

1319;

INDEX

Casas, Francisco de las, 700
Cascas, 1161, 1179
Cascayunca, 1563
Gasma, 1227, 91316, 1324; 1376,
Alta, Baja, 1847
Casmal (Cha- V), 1849
Casquin, 318f.
Cassava, 99, I19, 180, 183f.; v. Man-
dioc
Cassia, IOI, 104, 507, 1120
Casta, San Pedro de, 1326
Castelblanco, Francisco Caldera, 217
Castellano (coin), 1468; 1/50 of a
gold mark, 46 decigrams of
gold (1 oz. Troy = 31.1035
grams); 8 tomines; (War-
den), 295, 303, 362, 464, 476,
8ost.
Castile, New (Nueva Castilla), 1696;
del Oro del Reyno de Tierra
Firme, 733, 886, 888
Castilla, Alonso Criado de,
660, 672, 687, 608
, Andrés Criado de, 687
Don Luis de, 1378
Castilleja de la Cuesta (Spain), 437
Castillo (Piura), 1851
Alvaro Enrriquez del, 1191
Castro (Chile), 10, 1147, 1912, 1930,
1945, 1947ff., 1975, 1977, 2047 ;
(Ecuador), 1900
ges Lope Garcia de, 1411, 1465,

1560

338, 574,

947
Bate de, 1675
Teresa de, 1479
Vaca de, 1363, 1475, 1593, 1991
Castrovirreina (- eyna V), 1300, 1320,
1348, 1354, 1431, 1435, 1430ff.,
1460, 1479, 1556, 1855, 1903,
2031, 2038, 2059
Catacaos, 1162, 1175, 1574
Catalnicas (a kind of parrot), 161
1020
Catamayo, Rio del, 1131
Catarbe, 1749
Caterpillars, 600
Catfish (bagres), 401
Cathay, 55
Catia (language, Colombia), 85
Cativa Head, 4
Catoche (Co- V), Cape, 337, 340
Cats, wild, 1018, 1740
Cattails, 1417, 1620, 1635
Cattle, 1064, 1446, 1458,
1824, 1937
ranches, 2018
, wild, 1693, 1826, 1831
Cauca, Rio de, 1002, 1007ff., 1010,
1012ff., 1024, 1026, 1067, 1073,
1075
Caucana (weeding stick), 1727
Caulnagal, 305
Caupolican, 2000, 2002, 2004ff.

1665, 1800,

Caura, Rio (alta y baja), 1
Cauraulpo, 1875

Cautin (-ten V), Rio de, 1950, 1956,
1960, 1081, 1993

Cauxo, 1324

Cavalrymen, 430, 915, 1287, 1299,
1474

Caverns, Caves, 514ff., 503f. 1387f.,
1463, 1474

Cavies, 160

Cavina, 1537, 1608; -as, 1856

Cavite, 773

Cayambe, 1560

Cayao Aymara, 1874

Cayaotambo, 1875

Cayaptambo re Cajapucara erased,
V), 1875

Cayara, 1436, 1878

Cayaucachi, 1495

Cayavire, 1632; -ri, 1541;
viri; Callavira ?

Cayca, Espiritu Santo de, 1763

Caycay Yovay, 1870

Cayo, El, 290, 292, 808

Cayra, 1879

Cazagualpa, 592

Cazalla (Cas- V), 1348

Cebu, v. Zebu

Cedar, 1714, 1716

Cedros, Los, 530

Ceiba (silk cotton tree), 335, 728, 986,
1714

Celaya (Salaya V), Concepcion de,
499, 503, 814, 853

cf. Caquia-

Celemin (measure: peck; 4 gallon),
1418
Celendin (Ze- V), 1161

Celery, 1725
Celis de Padilla, Rafaela, 1262
Cement, 1290
Cemiti, Rio de, 1033
Cenefa (Sanefa V) (border, frieze),
I51I, 1514
Ceniza, 948, 953, 2046
Censo, dar a, poner a (invest), 1708
impuesto sobre las hoyas, 1456
impuestos a, sobre las haciendas
de los vecinos, 1708, 1710
Censos (leases), 1707

de los Indios (taxes), 1229, 1308,
1942, 2048, 2058
Census, 1850, 1852, 1858, 1880, 1804,
1926ff., 1933, 2019
Centeno (mine), 1649

, Gen. Diego de, (1505-49) 1082;
Sen-, 1593, 1632
Cepeda, Diego Ramirez de, 2054

Cercado, El (Lima), 1243, 1281,
1321f., 1334, 1832, 2041

Cereals (semillas; includes pulse,
etc.), 575, 645, 1096, I104.

806 INDEX

1291, 1682, 1782, 1946, 1957,
1960
Cereceda (Se- V), Paymaster, 345
Cerezas (fruit), 162, 1016
Cerquillo (circular hair-cut), 1116
Cervantes (Ser- V), Bishop Leon de,

70
Césares (Ceza- V), Los, 1122, 1977,
1984
Céspedes, Francisco de, 1826
Cestos (baskets), 1885
Cesuya, 1849
Ceterach (scaly fern), 326, 1725
Ceylon, 797
Ceymebamba, 1304
Cezar, Rio de, 938
Chabacanos (-bu- ? a kind of apricot),
1155
Chable, 341
Chacachacare, 194; -ra, 179
Chacalluta, 1414
Chacapa (Che- V), 1885
Chacaro, 1873
Chacas, 1328
Chachaca, 1869; Chacachaca?
Chachainga, 1196
Chachalaca (Ortalis sp.), 161
Chachapoyas, 1154, 1161, 1169, 1188ff.,
I1giff., 1301, 1304, 1338, 1563,
1576, 1849, 1852, 1902, 2041,
2048, 2050
; Rio’de los, 1113
Mitimas, 1850
Chachas, 1861
Chachaslebamo, 1849
Chaclla, r84rf.
, Mitimas de, 1844
Chaco, 1768
Chacras (Aymara; farms, gardens),
III7, 1354, 1390, 1434, 1458,
1704, 1733, 1926, 1934
Chagre, Rio de, 895
Chaguanes, 97, 172
Chaimas, Los, 193
Chairmakers, 1706
Chala, ;13%5,,, 1381s, “1480s 1545.
Challa, 1326
Chalaco, Frias, 1851
Chalaqui (De Soto Exp.), 314f.
Chalcedony, 977
Chalchiutona (Aztec king), 399
Chalco, 305, 390, 430f., 464, 466, 482,
822, 845, 862
Chalcumarca, 1481
Challacollo, 1633, 1635, 1638
Challapampa, 1550, 1606
Challcuchima, 1581; cf. Calicuchima
Challhuanca (-llua- V), 1874
Chamibo, 1110, 1145, 157%, 2050);/-ef.
himbo
, Rio de, 1111
Chamico (Datura sp.), 1722
Chamorro, Pedro, 1671

Champoton, 338, 341; Chan-, 350
Chamuru, 1547
Chanas, Los, 1827
Chancas, 1470, 1531, 1540, 1552f.
Chancay, 1223, 1316, 1321, 1335, 1834,
TOOL, 2041;= Arnedo
Huaman, 1559
Chancelor, 1697, 1702
Chancery, 412, 1220f., 1288, 1696
Chanchan, 1569
Chaneés, 1693
Chanqui (Changui V), 1983f.
Chantre (Precentor), 86off.
Chantzonot (Chancinote V), 355
Chapala, Lake, 523
Chapanchica, 1896
Chapanecas, 570, 576
Chaparra, 1382, 1486, 1862
Chaparral, El (Colombia), 946, 949
Chapetones (newcomers), 144, 456,
726, 1757
Chapiquifa, 1416
Chapis, 1882
Chaplain, 1238, 1697, 1709, 2013
Major, 1191, 1230, 2012
Chapultepec, 398, 862
Chaqui, 1547, 1645, 1890
Chaquilchaca, 1496
Characanecalixana, 1885
Charapoto (-ton V), ri21, 1577
Charcas;) Los; 1147, 1237, 1266; 1302,
1409, 1415, 1428, 1547, 1551,
1554, 1592, 1604, 1627, 1647,
1660, 1677, 1679, 1681, 1690,
1693, 1696, 1747, 1758, 1786,
1804, 1828, 1882, 1906, 10987,
2026, 2032, 2039, 2043f., 2050,
2055, 2057, 2059
Charcoal, 1291f., 1716, 1720
Charity, 1601f.; v. Hospitals
Charles V, 282, 411, 437, 524f., 888,
IO51, 1275, 1701, 1706
Charo (tree), 238
Charracache, 1868
Charrtas, 1829
Chasca (Venus), I515
Chasmal, v. Casmal
Chasque (courier, dispatch service),
1149, 1578, 1580, 1674; -qui
(Quichua form), 1320;
charque, 1317
Chastity, 128, 307
Chatas (flatboats), I199, 1207, 1208,
2015f., 2019
Chaucayan, 1328
Chaupi, 1327
Chaupiyunga, 1225, 1349, 13890
Chauquiguara, 1840
Chaves, Crist6bal de, 1200, 1202
, Elvira de, 1689
Nuflo (Nufio V) de, 1689, 1603
Ossorio, Roque de, 223

INDEX

Chavin (Chabin V), 1328, 1372
, Santiago de, 1459
Chayanta, 1547, 1676, 1746, 1889, 2043;
-ntta, 1314
Checcacupe (or -pi) (Checacopia V),
1867f.
Checosupa, 1868
Checras, 1308, 1834
Cheese, 1118, 1127, 1344, 1634, 1765
Chelequin, 1162
Cheles, 340
Chepén, 1160, 1846
Chepo, 890f., 1805
Cheque Mitimas, 1860
Cherinos, 1162
Cherrepe, 1160, 1170, 1846
Chestnuts, 984, 1405
Chetemal, 330, 341
Chia, 948, 1867, 2046
Chiacocolla, 318
Chiametlan (-tla V), 526, 543
Chiapa, 480, 571ff., 502ff., 818, 840
de los Indios, 578, 727
, Rio de, 589
Chiapas, 560ff., 654, 832, 866, 879
Chiautla de la Sal, 301, 467, 848
Chicama, Santiago de, 1160, 1169, 1202,
T57An O40. 20AT se == 5.) de
Cao?
Chicama mill, 1160
Chicha (drink), 1218ff., 1638, 1665,
I7II
Chichas, Los, 1415, 1552f., 1554, 1646,
1692, 1743f., 1746, 1750ff.,
1765, 1786, 1789, 1914, 2043,
2059
Chichen Itza (-niza V), 340, 342
Chichicapa, Santa Catalina de, 482,
515, 813, 850, 82
Chichigalpa, 721, 728
Chichimecas, 490f., 490, 502, 525, 520,
862
Chichimila, 352
Chichuaguasacache, 1864
Chickpeas, 625, 1291f., 1380, 1385, 1936
Chiclayo, 1171, 1846, 2041; -aio, 1160,

1574
Chicoana (Chaquanas V), ror4f.
Chicomuztotlh, 397; Chicomoztoc?
Chiconautla, 465, 846
Chicozapote (Chiquisa- V), 233
Chietla, 392, 8490
Chiguaco (bird), 1738
Chihuata (Chiguata V), 1864
Chilapa, 392, 849
Chilca, 1315, 1323, 1332, 1458, 1557
Chilcas, 1310; v. Vilcas
Chilcaymara, 1836
Chilchos, 1848; Chilcos?
Chilchota, 503, 854
Chilcos, Mitimas, 1850
Chile, 10, 76, 81, 902, 1147, I219, 1301,
1415, 1562, 1592, 1758, 1783,

807

1786, 1788, 1828, 1900, 1914ff.,
1925, 1976ff., 1989, 2005, 2033,
2040, 2047, 2057; (Fla.), 313
Chilén, 340
Chillan, San Bartolomé de,
1045f., 1057, 2047
Chillaos, 1162, 1169, 1195, 1563, 1849,
2041
Chillogallo, 1144, 1571
Chilmero, 1436
Chiloé, 10, 1147, 1930, 1947ff., 1975,
1977, 1983f., 2013f., 2017, 2047
Chil6n, 1684
Chilques, Los, 1875
Chimalmatlh, 397
Chimalpopoca, 400, 410
Chimba, 1415f., 1543
de Arequipa, 1864
de Cornejo, 1864
Tiyavayo, 1864
Chimbo, 1100, 1114ff., 1117, 1143, 1146,
1569, 2045, 2059; Chincho,
III7
Chimbopata, 1871
Chimborazo, 760, 1097, 1116
Chimeres, 174
Chimila (-ica V), 934
Chimocapac, 69, 1154
Chimocapoc, King, 1159
Chimohuanchaco (-oguan- V), 1846
Chimores, 165
Chimpu Ocllo, 1562
Chimu, 1560, 1574
China, Chinese, 7; 12). 20; 32, 55,50;
773, 775, 778, 781, 788, 1292,
i

1912,

5
Chinampas (gardens), 436
Chinandega, 518, 721, 724
Chinantla, 511; -nta, 851
Chinaware, 778
Chincha 1305; 1315; 1320, 1323; 14321,
1342ff., 1460, 1473, 1480, 1557,
1836, 1872, 2038, 2041, 2059
Chinchaisuyu (-suio V), 1497, 1490,

1557
Chincharasontor, 1851

Chinchaycocha (-chaco- V), 1321,
1334, 1365ff.. 1480, 1554,
1840, 2041

Chindehé, 542

Chinquana, 1609

Chintuy, 1575

Chiochio, San Pedro de, 1748f.; S.
Pedro de Atacama?

Chioza (Alabama?), 318

Chipalcas, 1861

Chipana, 1546

Chiqueaca (-quia- V), 1692

Chiquiguanita, 1390

Chiquillo, Francisco Ortiz, 1029

Chiquimula de la Sierra, 633, 642,
658, 668, 8590

Chiquitos, 1693

808 INDEX

Chira, La’ (Gsland), 753." (Piura),
1851

Chiramca, 1868

Chirana, 1354

, Canal de, 1355

Chircamara, 1436

Chirigones, 1812

Chiriguanaes, 1561, 1679, 1688, 1691ff.,
1712) 1731f:, 1763

Chirimias (flageolets), 638, 1185, 1230,
1277, 1281

Chiriqui, 904f., 1895

Chirirqui, 1487

Chirrillos (El Chorrillo V), 1309, 1326

Chisca, 318

Chisgo Baja, 1849

Chisques y Masques, 2042

Chita, 152, 948, 953, 956, 1552f., 2046

Chitareros, 963

Chivechive (fruit), 162

Chixinos, 1162

Chocloccocha: Chocolococha, 1435,
1439, 1479; Chocolocha, 2059
Chocé, 1879
, Rio, 1000 f.

Chocoes, 907ff.

Chocolate, 505, 581, 58o0f., 682f.

Chocope, 1160

Chocorbos, 1308; -rvos, 1353f., 1431,
1439, 1443, 1454ff., 1458, 1555,
1855, 2042

Chocoylacoca, 1849

Choir, 1709

Choir Chaplain, 2052

Choirmaster, 689, 868, 872ff., 878ff.,
205 oft.

Cholula, om 384, 392, 397, 430, 822,

Cloke: (Chulu- V)i5--632, 1607-703;
815; v. Jerez

Chongos, Los, 1325, 1338, 1556, 1563

Chontaduro (tree), 1015

Chontales, 508, 714, 717, 749, 860

Chopsticks, 776

Choro, 1872

Choroma, 1638

Chota, 1161

Chuaca, 341

Chuagon (?Chusgon?), 1161; Chul-
gon?

Chuare, Yanacacha, 1882

Chuchas (opossums), 1018

Chuco, Santiago de, 1180

Chucochuco (plant), 1724

Chucuito (also -yto and -ytto, V),
IZ1I, 1318f., 1409, 1540;
1616ff., 1628, 1894, 2032, 2039,
2048, 2050, 2058f.

, Lake, 1541, 1617, 1634;y) Diti-

caca

Chule, 1864

Chuma, 1629, 1722

Chumbé (-bi V) (sash), 1711, 1772

Chumbivilcas, Los, 1488, 1543, 1605,
1649, 1876, 2042

Chuna, 1541

Chunana, 1575

Chunchanga, 1322, 1349

Chunchos, 1561, 1629

Chungara, I3II, 1539

Chunguri, 1551

Chufio, 1628

Chupa, 1865; -pas, 1363, 1475

Chupaca, 1325

Chupacos, 1327; -achos, 1840

Chupe, 1882

Chuquiabo, 1542, 1630, 1676, 1746,
2050), 20503" "-ago, 1312)
LO25i. 3 —-apo!) 1626) a Paz

Chuquibamba, 1481

Chuquibanbaluque, 1861

Chuquicanglia (plant), 1722

Chuquicota, 1887

Chuquimango, 1557

Chuquinga, 1544, 1610

Chuquisaca, 1647, 1677, 1695, 1804,
1906; v. Plata, Wa

Chuquitanta, 1307, 1832

Chuqumayu, 1196

Church administration, 368, 1364ff.,
1390, 1413, 1416, 1422, 1420,
1666, 1746, 1810, 1832ff., 1941,
2022ff., 2057ff.

Church and State controversies, 735ff.,
74iff.

Church building expenses, 1460, 1838f.,
1848, 2050

Church income, v. Ecclesiastical in-
come

Churumatas, 1891

Churuquella: -quillo, 1704; -quilla,
1728

Chusg6n (?), 1161; v. Chuagon

Chuyani, 1872

Cia (N. Mex.), 563

Cibao, 102

Cibitaya, 1416

Cibola, 544, 546, sport 562, 565, 567

Cibucanes (Si- V), 1 183f.

Ciénegas, Las, 559, 909, 939

Ciervo (stag; Cervus campestris),
1607

Cifontes, Hernando de, 103, 1611

, Pedro de, 103, 1611

Cimarr6én (run wild), 1438, 1644, 1687,
1771, 1774, 1822, 1831

Cimarrons (Negroes), 115

Cinacatlan, 592; Cinacantan?

Cinchona (quinaquina), 1714ff.

Cingondoy, 1571; cf. Sinbundoy

Cinnamon, 150, 797, 1107

Cinto, 1846

Cipacta (Si- V), 930

Circuit Court, v. Audiencia

Circumcision, 63f., 1802

INDEX

Cisneros, Curahuasi de, 1872
, Francisco Ximénez de, 105
Cisterns, 1774

Cities, city administration, 1441,
1695ff., 1702ff., 1707, 1913

Citrons, 370, 982

Ciuatlan, 508

Ciudad, 1695

Bolivar, v. Santo Tomé

Ciutetl, 396, 390

Ciuti (fruit), 1726; si-, 162, 646

Clans (parcialidades), 1456f., 1459

Claroa, 1956, 1959

Cliff dwellers, 516

Climate, 1045, 1389; effects of, 30,
1809

Cliza (Clisa V), 1641, 168rf.

Cloister (Cuzco), 1514

Cloquillas (i.e., cuclillas,

1116

TUSAy 17) 91707;

1784, 2017, 2020

Clothing, v. Indian

Clover, 1725

Cloves, 760, 789, 794, 796

Clubs, v. Macanas

Coalcoman, v. Guacoman-

Coamo (Puerto Rico), 118, 804

Coast guard, 2020

Coat of arms, 1701

Coata, 1616, 1883

Coatepeque, 465, 846; today Coatepec

Coatlan, Sierras de, 506, 517

Coatzocoalcos, v. Guasacualco

Coayllo, 1323; Coaillo, 1308

Coayllocalango, 1836

Cobalt, 102, 334

Cobija, 1748

Cobos, derechos de (14 percent tax),

crouching),

Cloth, 1772, 1777;

1452
Coca, 1044, 1152, 1330, 1523, 1547,
1550, 1603, 1606, 1630, 1638,
1665, 1682, 1688, 1808, 1885
, Rio de la, 1086
Cocami, 1200f.; Cocamshi?
, Rio de, 1200
Cocas, San Francisco de, 1459
Cochabamba, 1189, 1320, 1525, 1632,

1635, 1630ff., 1733, 1744, 1746,
1888, 1906, 2043, 2059
Cochacassa, 1482, 1548
Cochamarca, 1327
Cochangara, 1325
Cochas (reservoirs), 1614
Cochassa, 1549; Cochas?
Coche, 894; Cochea?
Cochinca, 1787
Cochineal, 375, 381f., 384ff., 466, 1711,
1778
Inspector, 392
Laboratories, 482
Cochuaque, 341

809

Cochuna, 1860
Cocido (ferment), 1936
Coclé, 901
Coco-plum (icaco), 100, 240
Cocola, Sierra de, 505; Cocula?
Cocomes, 340
Coconut, 701, 779, 1715
Cocorote, 283
Codego, gI11
Codpa, 1416, 1422
Cofachi, 314
Cofachiqui, 314
Cofanes, 1085, 1571
Cofaqui, 314
Cofradia, 217, 1453,

Confraternity
Cogollo (bamboo leaves), 284
Cogollos, Pablo Duran de, 1033
Coin, Roman, 62
Coins, 461, 1663
Cojiniclules (Cogi- V; fruit), 646;

cf. Coxi-
Colan, 1162, 1164, 1168, 1574, 1851

, Rio de, 1176, 1416

Golani, 1864
Colca, "1436
Colcamarallaucono, 1849
Colcanpata, 1875; cf. Sa
Colchagua, 1939, 204
Colima (Coley, (Filan);

1673, "17101; vs

073.5

319; (Mexico), 500, 502f.,
509, 814, 853

Collado, Pablo, 1055

Collagua, Lari, 1859

Collaguas, 1386f., 1390, 1392, 1410,
1486ff., 1859, 1864, 2031

Collana, 1327, 1877

Aymara, 1874

Collanapincos, 1328

Collanatambo, 1875

Collao, El, 1195, 1490, 1495, 1540ff.,
1546, 1592, 1600, 1631; today,

_ Department of Puno
Highway, 1499, 1537, 1553
Collapata, 1869
Collas, 1871
Collasuyo (-suio V),
1865
Collay, 1162, 1169, 1180, 1848, 2041
Collcampata, 1492, 1509; cf. Colcan-
pata
College income, 460,

1495, 1490, 1540,

1710, 1742

Colleges, 107, 358, 373, 384, 430ff.,
459f., 468, 504, 541, 610, 612,
614f., 617, 947, 1094, 1246,
L240f) 1252h,. (1206) 12715
1278ff., 1600, 1602, 1705, 1710,
1741f., 1781, 17975) 1020); v.
Educational

Collique, 1846
Collonche, 1575
Colocolo, 2008; Cococolo, 2000

SIO

Col6én, v. Columbus
, Diego, 105
de la Cueva, Isabel, 442
Colonia, 800
Color sergeants, 2014
Colpaschunga Macas, 1844
Colquemachiguay, 1496
Colquemarca, 1887
Colquiri, 1637, 1745, 1906
Columbus, Bartholomew, 103
, Christopher, 24f., 20, 98, 105,
114, 800, 801
Domingo, 103
Comacocha, 1849
Comal (saucepan), 378
Comas, 1307, 1325
Comascarvaillo, 1832
Comayagua, 692, 700, 741, 816
Convenes (Conb- V), 1868; Camb-,
1868

Comedias, Casas de las, v. Theatre

Comet, 422

Cometures (fruit), 162, 240

Comitlan, 504

Commander = Comendador (103, 105)
and Adelantado; Nicolas de
Ovando is called both (115) ;
Hernando de Soto is both
Adelantado (306f.) and Go-
bernador (308, 313). Others
designated as Adelantado are:
Diego de Almagro, 1914;
Pedro de Alvarado, 570, 581,
602, 604, 692; Pedro Melén-
dez de Avilés, 308; Vasco
Nunez de Balboa, 808, 904f.;
Rodrigo de Bastidas, 931;
Sebastian de Belalcazar, 1041,
1043, 1065, 1068ff.; Juan
Vazquez de Coronado, 754
(Adelantado Perpetuo) ; his
successors the Marqueses de
Villamayor were Adelantados
Mayores, 524; Francisco Pa-
checo de Cordoba y Boca-
negra (A. Perpetuo), 446,
557; Francisco de Garay,
324; Pedro de Heredia, 908;
Juan Ponce de Le6n, 141, 305;
Francisco de Montejo, 342;
Gonzalo Ximénez de Quesada,
938, 942, 953, 955; Diego de
Velazquez, 203

Commencement exercises, Lima, 1277

Commerce, 683, 757, 778, 1200ff., 1358,
1409, 1480, 1616, 1638f., 1752,
1777, 1783t. Lolosave, Batter,
Trade

Commissaries, 2049

Communities, v. Indian

Compass, 32

Compostela (Mexico), 523,
(Santo Domingo), 803

S19;

INDEX

Compuestos (naturalized), 1442
Concepcion (Chile), 1330, 1912, 1930f.,
1943ff., 1961, 1979, 1981, 1992,
1997, 2001, 2006, 2000, 2018,
2021, 2033, 2040, 2047, 2054;
(Jauja), 1325, 1338
de la Vega (Panama), 1895;
(Santo Domingo), 108, 803
Concha, Hernando de la, 1672
Conchas, Rio de las, 568
Conchos, 542, 558f.
Conchucos, . 1154, 1178, 1218; 1321;
1328, 1334, 1365, 1370, 1372,
1376, 1556, 1633, 1830, 2041
Concubines, 1538ff.
Condebamba, 1161
Condestable, 140
Condesuyos, Los, 1387, 1454, 2043;
-uyo, 1304; -uio, 1386, 1300ff.,
1410, 1486ff., 1490, 1543, 1553,
1582, 1861
(-uyo V) del Cuzco, 1454
Highway, 1537, 1583; -uio, 1406
Condor Valley, 1349; Huandor? cf.
Jondor, 1128
Coéndores, San Juan de los, 1366; Son-,
1327
Condorillo, 1692
Condormarca, 1162; cf. Cunturmarca
Condors, 987, 1126, 1395, 1421, 1739
Confession, 1416
Confianza, de (authoritative), 2048

Confines, Los (Angol), 1958, 10981,
1997

Confraternity, 1230ff., 1246, 1268ff.,
1272f., 1453, 1662, 1666f.,
1673, 1703, 1710; v. Cofradia,
Hermandad

Congalla, 1868

Conger eels, 1752

Conguia, 1849; Concha?

Conilap (-nel- V), 1849

Conjunciones de lunas, 1802

Conkal, 350

Conno, 1872

Conocoto, 1144

Conotambo (Cuno- V), 1869

Conéto (sp. of mockingbird), 244;
-ote, II1I7

Consolation, Our Lady of, 1402

Constables, 862

Consulado, Sala del, 1229

Consulate, 1229

Consultores (Inquisition), 1288

Consumptives, 1724

Contador (Paymaster), 103, 345, 462,
836, 838, 946, 1580, 1611, 1613,
1662, 1703, 2036ff., 2057

de Cuentas, 2048
de Granos (special fund), 20309,

2048

INDEX

Mayor (Chief Paymaster), 946,
1229, 1235

de Retasas, 2048
Contaduria Mayor (office), 1229
Contaduria Real (Royal), 1308
Containers, 1753
Contecomapa, 467
Conterino, Francisco, 1445

Contrahierba (Dorstenia sp.), 658,
662, 678, 1722
Contreras, Hernando de, 734ff.
, Juan Ruiz de, 275
Pedro de, 734
Rodrigo de, 734ff.
Contumaza (Contamasa Ve) vaeoan
Francisco de, 1161; Contu-
masa, 1179
Convents, v. Nunneries, Augustinian
and other orders
Converti=reducir:, e:¢., 1787: ‘con-
quistarlas y reducirlas...

con que se reducirian aquellas
naciones a la Fé; cf. 1795

Copacabana, 1400, 1623, 1884

Copacaque, 1868; Coporaque?

Copal resin, 467, 505, 635

Copallin (-en V), 1162

Copan (Coban V), 671, 607

Copanabastla, 583; -avastla, 584

Copani, 1629

Copataya, 1414, 1416

Copelangos, 509

Copey (tree, Clusia sp.), 730

Copiapo, 1562, 1743, 1747f., 1756,
1758, 1915f., 1918, 1930, 1939,
1976, 1980, 1987, 2047

Copiz (-is V), 1845

Copoata, 1676, 1864; Pocoata?

Coporuna, 1486

Copper, 102, 289, 201, 314, 334, 594,
938, 976, 1206, 1472, 1655ff.,
IOQI, 1753, 1922

implements, 1753
sulfate, 1759
Copperas (ale earroza). 514, 504, 629

Coquimbo, 1120, 1152, 1296, 1562, 1900,
1921, 1923, 1980, 1990

Coracora, 1504

Coral, 531, 927

Corazones, 544, 553

Corcamarasaca, 1875

Cord, 1534; Cordage, 732, 745f., 1118,
1212

Cordillera Nevada, 760, 938, 976, 1148,
1366, 1371, 1406, 1425, 1607,
1647f., I015ff., 1926, 1930f.,
1936, 1939, 1057f., 1977, 1984;

v. Sierra Nevada

Cordoba (Colombia), 939, 1808; (Tu-
cuman), 1776, 1770ff., 1786,
1824, 1828, 1831, 1907, 1932;
(Spain), 577, 1590, 1620

SII

, San Juan de (Chocorvos), 1455,
1458
y Bocanegra, Bernardino
checo de, 440
y Bocanegra, Fernando de, 446,
557
, Francisco Hernandez de, 342,
712, 733
Juan Fernandez de, 1455
Mexia, Pedro de, 1440
Cordovan leather, 1166, 1170,
1923, 1034, 1937
Corella, Juan de, 1056
Corentines (Corentijn,
de, 204f.
Coriana, 270
Coriander, 1725
Coricancha, 1503
Corino, Rio de, IIIT,
Cork, 1720
Corn, Indian, 99,
1332, D41ct.,
1690, 19032
Cornejo, Chimba de, 1864
Coro, 250, 270, 277ff., 281, 809
Corobamba, 1162
Coroico (-yco V), 1629
Coronado (Spain), 502, 524
Valley, 544
, Francisco Vazquez de, 305, 440,
502, 524f., 543ff., 553ff., 557,
565, 567
Juan Vazquez de, 654, 754
Marina Vazquez de, 548, 557
Coronados, Golfo de los, 1984; Corco-
vado?
Corongo, 1328, 1370, 1556
Cororo, 1875; Coror?
Corporations, 1603
Corquemarca, 1638, 1643; Corque?
Correa, Antonio, 1254
Correction, House of, 1004
Correduria (brokerage), 1441, 1707
Corregidor, 462, 1076, 1232, 1652, 1660,
2048; v. Alcalde Mayor
Corregidor’s salaries, 1452, 1457, 1460,
1832ff., 1940
Corregimiento (district governed by
a Corregidor), 465, 823,
2022ff.
Corrientes, v. Siete
Corruption, 377, 1133, 1392,
Corsairs, 743) Sor, 1208s v.
Corsicans, 1442, 1706
Cortazar (-asar V), Julian de, 2054
Cortés, Fernando, 86, 105, 381, 405ff.,
416, 421ff., 424ff., 437, 455,
466, 488, 500, 504, 500, 524,
560f., 700, 733

Pa-

1292,

Dutch), Rio

II13

726, 7OI, 12TOL.
1418, 1455, 1459,

1471, 1652
Pirates

(author; Juan C. de Tolosa?),
763

de Monroy, Juan, 902

de Monroy, Pedro, 902

812

Corvincho (plant), 1723

Cosa, Juan de la, 908

Cosapa: Coz-, 760; Acogapa, 1414

Coscoxa, 1869

Cosio, 1851

Cosmogony, 8

Costales (sacks), 1616

Costa Rica, 754ff., 757, 832, 840

Costasacate, 1784

Costilla, 627

Costumes, v. Indian

Cosus, Majes, 1862

Cotabambas, 1483, 1544, 1605, 1873,
2042

Cotagaita, Santiago de, 1762; -yta,
1763

Cotahuasi: -guasi, 1486, 1543; -guaci,
1876

Cotaneras, 1483, 1544, 1873

Cotaparaco, 1328

Cotiguina, 720

Coton, 2001, 2004

Cotopriz (-pris V) (Talisia olivae-
formis), 162

Cotton, 753, 945, 954f., 98o0f., 1063,
LIO5I., L171, 1670, 0777; 1794;

180of., 1818
cloth, 1455, 1809
Cotuy, 803

Council, Church, 1280
, City, 17013'Cuzco; 1865 :) Lima,
1230, 1232ff., 1288, 1929
of the Indies, 159, 253, 275, 290,
304, 365, 377, 412, 458, 476,
470f., 528, 557, 573, 581, 641,
644, 657, 671, 693, 703, 716,
734, 752, 755, 830, 833f., 836,
838, 842f., 884, 899, 902, 922,
935, 946, 953, 980, I100, 1106,
[i27, 1120, PIAS 3 LIA7.er eer
1334, 1343, 1357, 1390, 1416,
1422, 1431, 1473, 1605, 1619,
1628, 1637, 1659, 1690, 1772,
1795, 1828, 2022ff., 2049, 2057
Councilman (Capitular del Cabildo),
1702
Couriers, 1149, 1300ff.,
1578, 1580, 2012
Courts, 921ff., 949, 1270; v. Audiencia,
Tribunal (s)
Covohes, 341
Cowboys, 321, 1124
Coxiniquil (tree), 984; v. Cojin-
Coya, 1522f.
, Beatriz, 1589
Coyango, 1875; Collanco?
Coyatitlanapa, 392, 849
Coyayagua, 16o9rf.
Coycapalca, 1440
eee 565; Cuy-, 430, 444, 465,
47
Coyoatecas, 517
Coyol (Acrocomia vinifera), 505, 577

1317, 1471,

INDEX

Coyotes, 648

Coza, 316

Cozcotlan, v. Cuzc-

Cozocolco, 849

Cozumel, 340, 345, 357

Cranes, 1527

Crayfish (camarones), 640, 667, I155,
1350, 1353, 1384f., 1387, 1400,
1416, 1422, 1458, 1460, 1792;
(cangrejos), 636; v. Shrimps

Creole (criollo), 915

Cress, common, 1725; water, 1725

Crezimiento, 2021; de la rropa, 2018

Criadillas (truffles), 1007

Criado de Castilla, Alonso, 338, 574,
669, 672, 687, 608

, Andrés, 687

Crier, 1284, 1289

Crossbowmen (ballesteros), 42o0ff.

Crosses, 108, 318, 320, 511, 545, 554f.,
560, 1195, 1622, 1693

Crown, gold, 1260

Cruces (Cruzes V), Casa de, 895

Crusade, Holy, 462, 885, 923, 949,
1703, 2049

Cruz de PantaleOn (Paraguay), 1798

Cuartillo: 14 quart, 1446; 4 real, 83
maravedis, 1454 (abbrev. q.)

Cuarto, Rio, 1784

Cuatro Villas, Las, 852

Cuauhnauac: Caulh-, 400; Quaul-,
309

Cuauhtitlan : Quaut-, 464, 845;
Guaut-, 4709f.; Couat-, 300;

Couatlichan, 400
Cuba, 280ff., 312, 808, 830, 865, 870
Cubagua, 122
Cuca, 1523; v. Coca
Cuchillo, 550
Cuchoa, 1869

Cuchumbi (Cercoleptes caudivolvu-
lus), 1018

Cucumbers, 1095, 1163, 1167

Cucuta, 965

Cuellar, Alonso Rangel de, 966
Cuenca (Ecuador), 1100, 1127ff., 1143,
1145, 1900, 2030, 2037
, Rio de, 1113
Ximon de, 500
Cuencamé, 538, 540, 820
Cuentas, v. Tribunal
Cuerda (gun match), 275
Cuernavaca, 305, 465, 475, 847
Cuertlavaca, 516
Cues (coletas), 686, 776
Cuesta Blanca, 1414
Cuetlaxcoapa, 372
Cuetlaxcoapan, 307
Cueva, Beatriz de la, 605
y Bocanegra, Francisca, 414f.
, Isabel Colon de la, 442
Juan de la, 1368, 1671
Cuexco, 476

INDEX

Cuicas, 279, 1051

Cuicatlan, 511, 851

Cuihuitlan, 514

Cuitlahua (Cuetlauac V), 407, 409
Culchuacan, 86; Culhu-, 300f.
Culcura Emarasaya, 1879

Culhua, 400

Culiacan, 543, 550; v. San Miguel
Culquimang, 1849

Culverins, 1296ff., 1922

Cumana, 106, 121, 131ff., 140, 193, 249,
252, 260, 275, 288, 806, 830,
835f.

Cumanagoto, 134, 251f., 806

, Rio de, 245

Cumanagotos, 97, 134, 103, 195, 245,

25 Tte253) 200), 271

Cumanes, 563

Cumbaya, 1144; -aya, 1571

Cumbi, 1184, 1523; -be, 1184; some
kind of embroidery

Cumbinama, 1139, 1900

Cummin, 636

Cunanceihuma, 223

Cunchuy, Calla, 1534

Cuntisuio, 1499; v. Condesuyos

Cunturmarca, 1563; native form of
Condormarca, q.v.

Cufiuriyuruma, 1714

Cupi, 1834, 1866

Cupilin, 1834

Cupirpongo, 1871

Cuquivaya, 1864

Curacas (lesser chiefs), 1450, 1450f.,
1498

Curacies, 350, 116off., 132Iff., 2050;
v. Dotrinas

Curaguara, 1643; Cara-, 1632

Curahuasi (-guaci, guaxi V), 1310,
1548, 1872

Curahuco, 1865

Curapampa, 1482, 1549

Curassows, I61

Curates, 1144, 1450

Curiaguanos, 1693

Curimarca, 1875

Curubi (fish), 1792

Curupap, 212; -urru-,
pixd, ‘212

Cusipata (Cussi- V), 1510

Cusma (shirt), 1523

Custard-apple, 231

Customs, v. Indian

Customs Officer, 862

Cutipe, Rio, 192

Cuxcux, 399

Cuxinicuil, 235; v. Cox-

Cuy (animal), 1741

Cuychu, 1517

Cuyes, Los, 1128

Cuymal, 1849

Cuyo, 1930ff., 1939; Cuio, 1783, 1828

, San Juan de, 1909

223; Curupa-

813

Cuyseo, 503, 854; today Cuitzeo
Cuysmancu, 1559

Cuzcatlan, 397; Cus-, 392, 655, 766,
840; Cuscatan, 759; Cozcat-
lan

Cuzco, 69, 76, 1113, 1301, 1318f., 1330,
1333, 1363, 1374, 1382f., 1387,
1390, 1392, 1424, 1428ff., 1462,
1479, 1480ff., 1508ff., 1605,
1627, 1865, 1870f., 1894, 1904,
1918, 2031, 2038, 2042, 2050,
2053, 2059; (near Cafiete),
1557

, Hanan, r4ooff.
Hurin, 1490ff.

Cuzmango (Cus- V), 1161, 1179, 1556
Cypresses, 1958, 1966
Cyztasaqualla, 410

D

Dabaybe (god), 996; also Dabeiba
Daga, Lucia de la, 1267
Daniel (pirate), 139
Danta: V. uses anta and danta indis-
criminately; in Spain anta
meant elk; in America, it was
applied to the tapir; but when
he speaks of dantas in Flor-
ida, it must mean elk. Danta,
160, 313, 586, 648, 666, 990,
1018, 1071, 1087, 1687, 1680,
1800; anta, 1086, 1200, 1630
Dardos (throwing darts), 534, 1064,
1086ff., 1089
Darién, 888, 808
, Rio del, 898, 924, 1001
Dates, 162
Daule, 1117, 1123
, Rio de. 1117
Davalos ae V) de Ribera, Juan,
130
Davide de Avila, q.v.
Day laborers, 2011
Deacon, 1230
Dean, 868ff., 2052ff.
, University, 1288
Debts, back, 2011
Decapitation, 1597
Decoration, 690

Deer, 125, 313, 991, 1204, 1458, 1607,
1687, 1740, 1771, 1785, 1822,
1828, 1831, 1920, 1975

Deerskins, 727, 1821, 1829, 1977

Delatorre Camana, 1862

Delgada, Punta, 1985

Delgadillo, Licentiate, 505

Delgado, Cape, 337

Demasias (excess tribute), 1302

Denton (fish), 1204

Dentudo (fish), 1785

Depopulation, 98, 102, 115f., 271, 270,
334, 339, 695, 699, 934, 945,

814

1075, 1079, I08I, I102,
TISON | 12T7i Ons32)
1342f., 1384, 1480, 1643, 1652,
1685, 1852, 1858, 1864, 1804,
1945, 1902, 2050
Depositario, 920
-General, 1673, 1702, 1706
Depressions (sinks), 1351
Desaguadero, 1547, I16I0f.,
1638; v. Outlet
Descarga (budget approval), 2018
Descuenta (-squ- V) (discount, levy),
2017, 2019, 2021
Descubridora, La (mine), 1466
Deseada, 1; Désirade
Desembarcadero del Rio, 1114,
today Embarcadero?
Deserts, 1351, 1350f., 1387f., 1304, 1430
Desierto (Dis- V), El, 445
Desmontes (ore discard), 1651
Desocados, 315; desocar, originally
meaning to block, hinder, is
still used by ranchers around
Vera Cruz in the sense of
hobbling a horse, and we
know that various Indian
tribes hamstrung their slaves
to keep them from running
off. The word is obsolete in

1025,
1147,

1634f.,

1117:

written Spanish, and _ its
meaning here remains un-
certain

Devaluation of silver, 1675
Devil, 21, 50, 61, 63, 68, 74f., 84f., 93,

168, 252f., 306, 417f., 424f.,
A431, (78i, 1120, ‘TroOr,' “1206,
1372, 1403f., 1509, 1559, 1587,
1802, 1804

Diaguitas (Calchaquies), 1768, 1778,
1788, 19590

Diamonds, 311, 778, 782

Diaz, Matéo, 273

» Ruy, 1679
Sebastian, 263
Diaz de Alfaro, Sebastian, 273
Diaz de Almendariz, Miguel, 973;

-reZ, 937, 958
Diaz Calvo, Andrés, 1030
Diego, Cacique Don, 479
Difuntos, Sala de (Death Record
Chamber), 1229
Dinero (24 grains, 19.16 grams), 1656
Dioceses, 864ff.
Discounts, 2017; v. Descuenta
Disease, hot country, 4305 1484
Disorders (Lima), 1287
Docios (Indian tribe), 167

Doctor (degree), 12766.
Doctor’s salary, 1270, 1450, 1635,
1700f.

Dogs, 265, 975, 1754
Dollar, v. Peso

INDEX

Dominica, 3

Dominicans, 107, 117, 123, 126, 132,
259, 278f., 200, 295, 308, 325,
364, 372, 380, 387, 414, 430f.,
481, 504, 510, 513, 522, 527,
573, 579, 583, 610, 620, 627f.,
644, 656f., 671, 736, 774, 878,
880, 917, 931, 935, 937, 947,
953, 959, 970, 1040, 1051, 1066,
1069, 1082, 1094, 1103, 1108,
LIIO, LITO, TL27, 1130.) TAst.
LISA; LEGO, T166,.1170;. T2ns.
1244ff., 1267, 1286, 1291, 1300,
132211... §1325,.1 Ige7k erage
1335, 1338, 1343, 1364, 1368,
1372; .\¥377;, 1300), )1400ts
1420f., 1470, 1513, 1520, 1600,
1619, 1627, 1637, 1639, 1666,
1680, 1698, 1705, 1708, I710,
1772, 1777, 1781, 1797, 1823,
1828, 1836, 1830ff. 1844,
1846f., 1853, 1862, 1864,
r876f., I8olf.,. 102T; @irg27,
1045f., 1970, 1974, 2056

Donis, Juan Gonzalez, 629

Donzellas (damosels), 1024

Doradilla (ceterach), 326

Dorado, San Pedro de Alcala del
Rio, 1085

Dorados (fish), 1024, 1752, 1792, 1818

Doro, Diego, 2001

Dotrinas (religious instruction dis-
tricts, curacies), 350, I160,
1251, 1636, 1666, 1710

Dotrineros (curates among the In-
dians), 1275f., 1413, 1666,
1710

Doubloon, 1602

Doves, 333

Dragon tree, 590

Dragon’s blood, 286

Dragon’s Mouth, 1709, 194

Dreams, 1552f.

Drum, 1089

Drummers, 2014

Drunkenness, 303, 1219, I802f.; v.
Borracheras

Ducat =11 reals, 2014

Ducks, 1975

Duenas, 1869

Dugouts (piraguas), 29, 171, 179, 181,
199, 335, 986, 1000, 1087

Dung, 1367

Duran de Cogollos, Pablo, 1033

Durango, 535ff., 820

Duraznos (-asnos V) (large peaches),
645

Dutch, 111i, 125;- 130, 156), 204. 200;
All, 2211, S11; 7S0r., 7ZOsth:,
1296, 1751, 1948, 1980

Dyes, 237, 246, 251, 683, 985, 1711, 1778

Dyewood, 658

INDEX

E

Eagles, 418, 422, 661, 987
, fishing, 1420

Earthquakes, 602, 655, 971, 1157, 1290,
1385, 1306, 1308, 1405ff., 1415,
1600

Eber, 801

Ecclesiastical income, 373, 381, 443,
451, 477, 479, 493, 495, 615,
656, 864ff., 1238f., 1245, 1247,
250 tess ei2sot.0 2506s
1273, 1300f., 1338, 1345, 1360,
1365, 1413, 1450, 1453, 1458,
1460f., 1470, 1600, 1642, 1646,

1666, 1680, 1700f., 1832ff.,
1927, 2013, 2018, 2051ff.; v.
Tithes
Ecija (Ecuador), 1900; (Spain),
1478, 1526
, Nuestra Sefiora del Valle de,
1084f.

Ecuyelpan, 410 ;
Education, v. Colleges, Inca, Univer-

sity
Educational expenses, 448f., 610,
1276f., 1929; v. Colleges
Educational income, 358, 448, 610,

W270.) 1710, 17A42: 1020s Vv.
College income

Educational salaries, 358, 1275, 1741f.

Eggplant, 1355

Eggs, 1095, 1339, 1770

Egrets, 161, 987, 1607, 1775, 1975

Egypt, Egyptians (Gitanos), 52, 71f.

El Dorado, 142, 165, 287, 973, 1063,
1198, 1207

Elephant, 40, 487

Elita, 1800; Ita?

Elk, 313, 1809; v. Dantas

Emarasaya, Culcura, 1879

Embalming, 1512

Embocadero, 772, 861

Embroidery, 1184,
Cumbi

Emeralds, 942, 945, 951, 977ff., 1121,
1568, 1755

Emetic, 1808

1192,

Encomienda: the landed proprietors
(encomenderos) were as-
signed Indians (encomenda-

dos or repartidos) for work
on their estates or business
enterprises; the Indians as-
signed constituted an encomi-
enda; the system already pre-
vailed among the Indians,
and was similar to the landed
serf system in Spain; 115, 175,
182, 197, 375, 548, 575, 734,
902, 920, I0I2, 1033, 1036,
1039, 1041, 1047f., 1083ff.,
1097, 1147, 1154, 1179, 1184,

1202; Vv.

815

1292, 1364, 1366, 1368, 1378,
1391, 1428, 1455, 1457, 1450f.,

1466, 1590, 1630, 1678, 1765,
1772, 1705, 1821, 1832, 1850,
1933, 1987, 1989, 2050; v.
Repartimientos

Enemigos, Paso de los, 2016

Enepena, v. Nepena

Enfermeria (hospital ward), 1708

English, 221). grt "1751 1048s vy:
Raleigh

Engol (Araucanian chief), 2000, 2002

Enivera, Domingo de Barbo y, raft.

Enriquez, Martin, 4099, 1279, 1680;
also Enrr-

Enriquez de Almeida, Pedro, 111

Enriquez del Castillo, Alvaro, 1191

Ensign, v. Alférez

Entail (Mayorazgo), 411ff., 414, 416,
1595

Entre Los Dos Rios, 994, 1003

Epatlan, 397

Epiphany, 1232

Episcopal visits, 1410

Erano, Juan de, 1038

Ereguaiquin (-guay- V), 663

Erizar, Capt. Martin de, 1099

Escalante, Pedro de, 1685f.

Escanela, 464, 845

Escapapules (cloaks), 637, 686

Escaupiles (padded jerkins), 276, 514

Escoto, 1624ff.

Escribania (secretarial post), 1702,
1706
de Camara (of the Chamber),

., 1697
Escribano (public scribe), 609, 1706
de Cabildo (Council Secretary),

1706
de Gobernacion (State Secretary),
1695
de Juzgado (Court Secretary),
1706
de Provincia (Provincial Secre-
tary), 1706
de Registros (Recorder), 1441
Escudo de oro (gold crown = ducat,
II reals), 1260
Esequibo (Esq- V), 170, 189, 202, 242
Esmeraldas, Las, 1121
Espafia Mayor, 524
Espafiola, v. Hispaniola
Esparto grass, I5II
Esparza, 716, 817
y Aranjuez, 754
Espejo, Antonio de, 559, 562ff., 567f.
Espinosa, Cardinal Diego de, 458, 1226
, Diego Sanchez de, 324
Francisco Cajas de, 1611
Gaspar de, 1374
Juan de Salazar, 1794
Pedruja, Juan de, 703

816

Espiritu Santo (Oaxaca), 508, 813;
(Tepic), 523, 819
, Bay of (Fla.), 306, 313, 315
de Cafyca, 1763
, Rio del, 1009
Esquilache, Prince, 1296, 1636
San Francisco de, 1409, 1411
Esquintepeque (-quuin- V), 633, 639,
859; Esquuintepequec, 627;
Escuintla? cf. Isq-
Esquivel (-bel V), Juan de, 324
, Maria de, 1593
Estacandose (staking a claim), 1649
Estaile (-ayl V), 1773
Estancia del Rey (Chile), 1952
Estafio (mine), 1649
Estapalapa, 465, 846
Estebanico, 546, 550, 552
Esteco, 1766ff., 1760, 1771, 1786, 1907
Estero, Gunttiee del, 1771ff., 1786,
1907
Estolica (weapon), 1087, 1204
Estrada, Alonso de, 500, 572
, Beatriz de, 440, 548
Estrella, Rio de la, 906
Estremadura, I051, 1990, 2009
Estremo, 1019
Etén, 1160
Ethiopia, 1464
Etloca, 410
Eudoxus, 30
Euphrates, 52f.
Evangelistas (Chile), 1985
Exicoalt, 410
Expiration, Christ of the, 1401
Ezatlan, 604
Ezion-Geber, 31

F

Fabrica de las Iglesias = Church
building expenses, q.v.

Factor, 462, 1332, 1343, 1473, 1662,
2012, 2016, 2057; v. Royal
Officials

Fagot, 1830

Fajardo, Luis, 139
Fajas (sashes), I71I
Falces (Falses V), Marqués de, 411
Falcons, 987, 1738; v. Birds
Falguero, Alonso, 1669
Fallow deer, 313, 1920, 1975
Fama, de la, 1956, 2010
Famines, 56f., 144
Fanega = about 1.6 bushel, 625
Farms, 1935; v. Chacras
Fasting, 307
Feather headdresses, 180, 187, 514
Feathers, 313, 1200, 1562, 1802
Featherwork, 426, 490
Fees, brokerage, 1707

, gauging, 1707
Fennel, 1725

INDEX

Ferdinand the Catholic, 572

Fern, maidenhair, 1725

Fernandez, Jeronimo, 414

Fernandez de Angulo, Bartolomé, 1670
Fernandez de Cordoba, Juan, 1455
Fernandez de Leon, Juan, 278
Fernandez de Velasco, Pedro, 1467
Ferrefiafe: -rrifi-, 1845; -rrin-, 1161
Ferrets, 1741

Ferrén Barragan, Jeronimo, 899
Fertilizer, 1332, 1351, 1385, 1418, 2017
Feudatorios, 1865

Feudo y vasallaje, 420

Fianzas (sums guaranteed), 1318
Fief, 420
Fiel de Pesos y Medidas, 1707;

Ejecutor, 486, 1232, 1703; for
both vy. Inspector, Weights
f and Measures
Figs, 983, 1137, 1349, 1383, 1957
, Zamora, 1203
Figueroa (soldier), 1053, 1061
, Luis de, 105
Filberts, 1965, 1975
Filipinos, 793
Filipote (ship), 142
Finances, 1147, 1274
Fines, 1457, 1460
Finmark, 27
Fire, sacred, 65
Fire arrows, 1509
Firefly, 348
Fisc, 1467
Fiscal (State or Prosecuting Attor-
ney), 824; v. Attorney
Fish, 248, 284, 636, 630, 1024, I175,
1294, 1332, 1382f., 1394, 1404,
1420, 1559, 1752, 1792, 1817,
1948, 1971, 1075
Flageolets, v. Chirimias
Flamenco, Capt., 136
Flamencos, Los, 1763
Flamingos, 1486
Flanders, 1611
Flatboats, v. Chatas
Flatheads, 1566
Flavio, 32
Flax, 566, 958, 1925
Flaying, 1215
Fleets, 1, 293, 304, 363, 374, 456, 8905,
916, 1293, 1415, 2048
Flemings, 1706
Flint, 1466
Flood, The, 14ff., 56f., 801, 1668
Floods, 1794, 1801, 1818, 1926
Florida, 106, 305ff., 546, 552, 560, 830,
8358.
Flour, 1127, 1380
Flowers, 591, 1390
, artificial, 952, 1519
Flume, 463
Flyflaps, 1200
Fonseca, Bay of, 665

INDEX

Foot = 4 vara, .93 Eng. foot; 236

Footprints, Saints’, 1195

Forcalla, 1160

Foreigners, 1442, 1706

Fortifications, 107, 118, 130f., 218, 221,
295, 303, 308, 324, 320, 362,
805f., o13ff., 932, 935, 1206ff.,
1415, 1525, 1527ff., 1922, 1946,
1940ff., 1952ff., 1903ff., 2009,
2018; v. Artillery, Cannon

Foundlings, 454

Fowl, 347, 1339

Foxes, 15590, 1740f.

Fragua, Loma de la, 1004

Franceses, Rio de los, 196

Franciscans, 107, 123, 131, 145, 259.
270, 277ff., 281, 290, 295, 308,
325, 343, 349, 355ff., 360, 364,
360, 372, 380, 383f., 387f.,
441f., 452, 468f., 472, 478f,,
481, 480, 491, 493, 496, 408f.,
504, 522, 526f., 520, 537, 540ff.,
540f., 558f., 500ff., 573, 6oz2f.,
615, 644, 656, 663, 692, 700,
702, 710, 713, 718, 724f., 741,

753, 755, 774, 790, 889, 917,
931, 935, 947, 953, 970, 1040,
1053, I061, 1066, I07I, 1076,

1082, 1094, 1103, I108f., III0,
PhO w M27. TB Oh NL 3250 1137,
LU4Si 1ES4) TL60r., 1166;
T7Ots, LUO, 1163) Toa) L207.
1247ff., 1262, 1266, 1291, 1300,
1322f., 1325, 1327, 1338, 1342,

1345, 1353, 1364, 1390, 1402,
1430, 1494, 1505, I510, 1600,
1627, 1637, 1639, 1666, 1678,
1680, 1698, 1705, I710, 1765,
17076) 1772, 1777s 1781, 1783,
1797, 1800, 1815, 1818, 1823,
1828, 1832f., 1841, 1846,
1840f., 1859, 1864, 1871, 1893,
TO2T, 10271., 1032) To45ih.,

1967, 1970, 1974, 2018, 2054f.

Francolins, 1738

Freight, 772, 2018

French, 218, 223, 1213

Fresnillo, 536, 538, 819

Frialdad, 1458, 1717f.; here apparently
means chills, but dictionaries
give “impotence” as usual
meaning

Frias, 1162; Frios, 1177

Chalaco, 1851
Frigates, 127, 281, 1418, 2015, 2019

Frogs, 38
Frost, frozen, 1182, 1438, 1916ff.
Fruit, 1193, 1604, 1726; v. various

fruit names

Frutilla de Chile (Fragaria chiloen-
sis), 1110, 1446, 1726, 1782,
1923, 1926

Fuego, Tierra del, 36, 38

53

817

Fuenleal, Sebastian Ramirez de, 105,

372
Fuenmayor, Gabriel Ortiz de, 403
Fuente, Merlo de la, 1930
Fuerza Vieja (Havana), 303
Funeral customs, v. Indians
Funeral 25 percent fees, 1709
Furs, 314, 585, 1920

G

Gabaea, 45
Gacas, 1838
Gachacoya, 320f.
Gaeta, Laguna de, 1975
Galarza, Andrés Lopez de, 1o4of.
Galeas, Pedro Alonso, 263, 268, 1052,
1055, 1059 :
Galena, 1448
Galera, Cabo de (Galley Chief), 922
, Punta de la (Chile), 1983;
(Trinidad), 148
Galga (boulder), 963
Galicia, New, 305, 510ff., 524ff., 557,
a 827, 833, 830, 855, 857,
2

Galindo (soldier), 1060
Gallardo, Moyos de, 1891
Gallega Channel, 362
Gallego, Cape, 1085
, Hernando (Chile), 1985
Motezuma, Juan, 409
, Pedro, 409
Galleons, 1297, 1407, 1791
Galley prisoners, 862, 922, 1280
Galliots, 1298
Galpon (shelter), 1361, 1492, 1503,
1505, 1508f., 1963
Gambler, 1513 |
Gamboa, Juan Alvarez de, 356
, Juan de Avendafio, 1154, 1179
Marshal Ruiz de, 1946
Game birds, 101; v. Partridge, Quail,
etc.
Gameza (-esa V), 948, 953, 2046
Gamos, v. Fallow deer
Gangara (Senegal), 58
Garavito (-abi- V), Isidro, 1672
, Juan Pérez, 1020, 1031
Garavito de Aguilar, Luis, 113
Garay, Francisco de, 324
Garcés, Enrrique, 1465
Garcia, Fray Gregorio, 42
, Lucas, 2054
Fray Miguel, 883
Garcia Carrasco, Juan, 240f., 273
Garcia de Castro, Lope, 1465; cf. 1411,

1947

Garcia Holguin, Capt., 431

Garcia de Loyola, Martin, 1594, 1597,
1928, 1944, 1961, 1964, 1969,

| 1975 ;
Garcia Pardo, Andrés, 144

818 INDEX
Garcia de Paredes, Diego, 126, 262, 1004, 1012f., 1026ff., 1030f.,

279, 1051, 1055ff. 1035, 1037, 1040, 1043, 1047ff.,
Garcia Ramon, Alonso, 2020 1063, 1067, 1070f., 1073,
Garcia Rueda, Pedro, 1670 1074ff., 1078f., 1081, 1085,
Garcia Vazquez, Antonio, 1660 LOOK, 1007, ‘1112, 1178, 1127;
Garcilaso de la Vega, Inca, 57, 1120) 1129, 1132ff., 1141, 1155, 1159,

1363, I5I10, 1518, 1563, 1500, 1183, 1186, 1180f., 1197, 1202,

1594, 160rf.; -azo 1490 1204f., 1207, 1213, 1218, 1296,
Garden, Temple (Cuzco), 1519 1373, 1377, 1391, 1468, 1476f.,
Garganto Valley, 1354 1483, 1486, 1503, I51Iff., 1532,
Garina (Indian tribe), 96, 181, 187f. 1544, 1559, 1561ff., 1568, 1586,
Garlic, 1725 1613f., 1626, 1658, 1679, 1682,
Garnets, 1447 1685, 1688f., 1691, 1761, 1768,
Garrison, 1291; v. Fortifications 1788, 1914, 1922, 1925, 1947,
Garruchamba, 1131, 1566 1956, 1071, 1974, 1984, 1904,
Gartia (mist), 138of. _1997f., 2009
Gasca, Pedro de la, 737, 1481, 1480, chain, 1573

1593, 1626 coin, 1602
Gastos de capital (capital expendi- flowers, etc., 1519

tures), 2011 , lace, 1001

leaf, I5II

Gatekeepers, 1523.

Gatu (fair), 1623

Geese, 1644, 1975

Gegemani, 912f., 917

Gelboé (Gilboa), 1756

Genebrard, 42, 55f.

General of the Pacific, 1154

Genil (Spain), 1478, 1526

Genipapo, Rio de, 211

Genoese, 1442

Geodes, 1811

German Ocean, 29

Germans, Germany, 28

Getudos, v. Jetudos

Giants, 372, 395, 1122

Gibraltar, 30

Gilding, 1469

Gillyflowers, 1725

Ginger, 104, 120

Giraffe, v. Habada

Girardo, Maffeo, 32

Giron (Ecuador) (Ji- V), 1127, 1566;
y. Jiron

Glassworks, 1357

Goa, 12

Goats, 125, 332, 1096, 1171, 1446,
1923, 1937, 1948, 1980

Gobierno = State, Gobernacion;
106, 2022ff.

Gogorroén, Pedro de Arejmendi
493

Goitre (goza), 1722

Gold, 102, 115f., 142, 350,’ 162, 165,
168, gl74,. 240) 223,256, 201,
266, 269, 271, 276, 270, 283,
289, oy eh fe 443, 467,
476, 494, 500, 507, 500, 514,
550, 504, 604, 605f,, 509, 701,
709, 755! 770, 782, 886, 903,
906, 932, 939, 941f., 945, 951,
954f., 960f., 964, 966, 970,
976, 978, 995f., 998, 1000f.,

2, 1647

1783,
es;
Cr);

Goldmining methods, 1135

Goldsmiths, 165; v. Silversmiths

Golfo Dulce, 660, 671

Gomara (Gomora V; the historian),
98, 102f., 397f., 404, 400, 737;
Gomera, 605

Gomera, La (Colombia), 1009

, Conde de la, 742

Gomez de Almagro, Juan, 2010

Gomez de Alvarado, 1361

Gomez Pacheco, Juan, 355

Gomez Romero, 1994

Gomez de Silva, Domingo, 1271, 1205

Gones, Curahuasi de Juan, 1872

Gonzalez, Garci, 263, 265

, Pedro, 124

Gonzalez de Avila, Gil, 699, 712

Gonzalez Donis, Juan, 629

Gorgona, 1080

Gorgor, 1327

Gorocheu, Mitimas de, 1841

Gourds, 1218, 1363

Governor: in general, Gobernador,
but cf. Adelantado

Goza (goitre), 1722; this word, ap-
parently vulgar Andalusian,
cognate of Italian gozza and

Roumamian — gusha, is still
used in Mexico. (Eulalia
Guzman)

Grace, Our Lady of, 1402
, Our Lady of High, 109
Gracia de (appointment), 863
Gracias a Dios, 696, 816, 1475
Gracolano, 2000, 2002
Grado, Alonso de, 409
Gradtian, 610; graduar means to take
an academic degree, but here
apparently the wearing of
academic robes is meant
Grama grass, 1756
Gramajo, Capt., 917

INDEX

Granada (Nicaragua), 712ff., 716, 731,
817; (Spain), 505, 955, 1235;
(West Indies), 2, 178, 108f.

, New Kingdom of (Colombia),

68, 83ff., 152, 288, 2046

Granadas, Las, 1164, 1167

Granadilla (passionflower), 985, 1106,
1720

Grande, Rio, v. Rio

Granjeria (-nge- V) (trade), 1830

Grano = j real, 1451, 1459, 1656

Granos, Caja de, 1451, 1454

Grapefruit, 370, 1799

Grapes, 90, 162, 258, 280, 662, 7o1,
T350f., 1355f., 1363, 1387,
1434, 1782, 1961

Gravel, 1290

Greenland, 27

Grenada, v. Granada

Griego, San Juan del, 1440, 1447

Grijalba, Juan de, 342, 362, 600

Gristmills, 1192, 1293, 1430, 1642, 1654,
1680, 1716, 1733, 1783, 1799,
1930, 1934, 1958, 1971, 2018

Grita, Espiritu Santo de la, 760, 948f.,
971, 1896, 2035

Grogram (a coarse fabric of wool,
mohair, and silk), 1110, IIIS,
1772, 1779, 2017

Gua-, etc., v. Hua-, etc.

Guabo (guamo tree), 235, 984

Guaca (tomb), 65, 60, 1155, 1158f.,
T2108; 1343) 1362, 1372. also
Huaca; v. Tombs

Guacagua (Valdivia bird,
thera?), 1023

Guacamayas (macaws), 161

Guacané, 320

Guacapille Apt, 15890

Guacara, San Pedro de, 1459, 1461

Guachaca, 1308

Guachacoya, 307

Guachinango, 465, 473, 525, 846, 848;
today Huauhchinango

Guachipa, 1305f.

Guaco, Mama Ocllo, 1538

Sauro-

Guacomanmotines, 503, 853; today
Coalcoman

Guacozin, 431

Guadalajara (-axa- V) (Mexico),

433, 510ff., 819, 827, 833, 830,
855, 806, 876; (Spain), 519
de Buga, 1896
, Antonio, 565
Guadalauquén, 1972, 1978, 1004
Guadalcazar (Mexico), 503, 814, 853
, Marqués de, 1235, 1287, 1208
Guadalquivir (Spain), 1620
Guadalupe (Peru), 1160, 1170
Guadatinaja (the paca), 160, 991, 1019
Guadelupe, -loupe (West Indies), 1,
II4

819

Guadiana (Mexico), 535ff., 820, 8309,
866, 877
, Rio (Spain), 1192
Guadianilla (Puerto Rico), 118, 804
Guadix (Spain), 414
Guaduas (bamboos), 1008
Guagraes (partridges), 1021
Guaguacos (birds), 1020
Guaiacum (palo santo), 104, 116, 335,
590, 661, 932, 936, 085; v.
Guayacan
Guaibas, 176
Guaicos, Guaycos (cafions), 1416,
1663; (partridges), 1738
Guaicurus, 64; Guay-, 18orff.
Guaimi (-my V), 906
Guainacotas (-ayn- V), 1877
Guaini, Rio, 181, roof.; Guani, 182
Guaipiles (Guay- V) (clothing), 349,
LST 7. 562
Guaira (and Guayra V) (furnace),
1651, 1701
, La (Paraguay), 39, 1807, 1911;
Guayra, 180o0f.; (Venezuela),
256, 261, 264
Guairona (Guay- V) (inn), 1184
Guajijos (Guag- V) (Indians), 940
Guajobamba, 15093
Guajosingo, 392, 430
Gualé, 311
Guali, Rio, 1039
Guallipe, 1162
Gualparocas, Ingas, 1891
Gualtepeque, 467; Ahualtepec? Huas-
paltepec ?
Gualua, 1593
Guamaches, 162
Guamaco (-mocoO V), 925, 939, 1003,
1028ff., 1897; also Guamoc6d
Guamampalla, 1483, 1544
Guamanga (Ayacucho), 1301, 1300f.,
1318f., 1330, 1333, 1338, 1354
1428, 1431, 1443, 1458, 1460,
1463, 1474f., 1478, 1553, 1604,
1853, 1858, 1894, 1903, 2031,
2038, 2042, 2050, 2052, 2059
Guamangua, San Juan de la Vitoria

de, 1424ff.
Guambacho, 1221, 1324, 1847; -chu,
1560; Guanbacho, Bonbacho,

1316

Guambé (fruit), 1799

Guamoco, vy. Guamacdé

Guamonteyes, 287

Guamuchi (guamo tree), 235

Guana, 1924; Guanta?

Guanabana (Anona muricata), 1015

Guanaco, 36f., 1330, 1438, 1458, 1483,
1485, 1487, 1607, 1632, 1635,
1644, 1647, 1740, 1831, 1920,
1975

Guanaguanare, v. Guanare

Guanajas, 701

820

Guanajuato, 482, 498, 503, 853, 862

Guananpechao, 1847

Guafiape, 1160, 1164; -ope, 1316; Hu-,
1560

Guanare (Guanaguanare V), 278, 809

Guanasibi, 820; today Guanacebi

Guancavilcas, v. Huan-

Guanchoguailas, 1308; -ayl-, 1832

Guanear (fertilize with guano), 1351,
14i1f.

Guanequé, 1325

Guani, v. Guaini

Guano, 1385) TALI1., PATAY L4t7t:,

Guapart (fruit), 1694

Guapo (groundnut), 236

Guaquirca, 1486

Guara, 1334

Guaraguao (eagle),

Guarambaré, 1812

Guarambe, 1800; Guarambare?

Guaranga (-gua V) (carob bean),
1171 SUE 7

Guarangas (Cajamarca), 1850; Gar-,
1887

» Chaupi, 1327

1422

1420

Guarango (Acacia tortuosa), 1351,
1354, 1359, 1578

Guarani, 82, 1809, 1811, 1814, 1821,
1827, 18209

Guarapiche, 188, 193

Guaratopa, 1162

Guarco, 1332, 1341, 1557, 1836

Guardia, Santa Maria de la, 1685

Guardiania (Franciscan prelacy or
district), 1338

Guarema (dye plant), 251

Guarete, 525

Guarico, Rio, 173

Guasacatlan, 525; Ahuacatlan? Hua-

jacatlan?
Guasacualco (also -coal-, -qual V),

507, 511, 514, 813, 850, 864;
Coatzocoalcos
, Rio de, 508

Guasaticras, 1328

Guasavara (raid), 1689

Guasuseés, 904f., 1009

Guatacapt, Rio, 219

Guatarral, v. Raleigh

Guatauma, 1871

Guatavita, 948, 2046

Guateaymarca, 1832

Guatemala, 70, 9off., 404, 560f., 6orff.,
759, 815, 826, 832, 84of., 859,
866, 879, 1406f.

Guaticol, 2000, 2002

Guatusco, v. San Antonio

Guava (fruit), 100, 162, 232, 1726

Guavo (tree), 235

Guaxale, 316

Guaxarapos, 1812

Guaxaras (Indians), 216

Guaxuato, 814; Guanajuato?

INDEX

Guay (herb), 1722
Guayacan (palo santo), 335; v. Guaia-
cum
Guayameo (Guaymeo V), 503, 854
Guayamoco, 652
Guayanes (Indians), 97, 154, 172, 194,
207
Guayangareo, 488
Guayape, Rio de, 6905
Guayapoco, Rio de, 206, 209; Guay-
apu?
Guayaquil, Rio de, 1117
, Santiago de, 1100, III4, 1117ff,
1120, Ii43, TAs, 1g01, 1317;
1570, 1852, 1900, 2021, 2030,
2037, 2050, 2050
Guayba, 1864
Guaycurts, vy. Guai-
Guaymil, 341; Uaimil
Guayochapa, 1704
Guayparuminas, 1864
Guayquiries (-que- V), 97, 124f., 173
Guayra, v. Guaira
Guazacapan (Guas- V), 92, 633, 640,
642, 859
Guazamota, 525
Guechollan, 508
Gueler, 1991
Guere, 245
Guero (Aruaca wine), 184
Guerra, (?)Ferdinando de la, 2021
, Luis, 908
Guerra de Ayala, Juan, 741
Guerra y Céspedes, Francisco de la,
1308
Guerrero (soldier), 1060
, Bartolomé Lobo, 1235f.
Gonzalo, 339
Maestro, 883
Guevara, Juan de, I210
, Juan Pérez de, 1190
Manuel de, 1870

Gueytulpa, 474; Hueytulpa = Hua-
tulco

Guiana (Guayana V), 95, 97, 106, 121,
143, I51ff., 163ff., 188ff., 260,
274, 807, 830, 835, 865, 871,
956, 1735

Guillén, Francisco, 1669, 1671
, Francisco Pérez, 1669
Juan, 1669
Guinea, 225
hens, 989, 1828
Guirapariya (Paraguay), 1806
Gulls, 1021, 1420
Gunboats, 12098
Gunpowder, 1299, 1716
Gutiérrez, Fray Diego, de la Merced,
1402
Guylapa, 518; Huiloapan?
Guzman, Diego de, 320
, Hernando de, 1206ff.

INDEX

Nufio de, 519, 523, 543, 557
Rodrigo de, 1784
Gypsies (Gitanos, -nas), 176, 554; v.
Egypt
Gypsum, 1936

H

Habada, 40, 487; rhinoceros? giraffe?
Habana, v. Havana
Hacha, Rio de la, 106, 269, 836, 923,

935, 1808

Hachacache (-el V), 1884; also Acha-
cachi

Hair, 686, 776, 1087f., 1116

Haiti, o8ff.; v. Hispaniola

Halberdiers, 1230

Ham (son of Noah), 17f.

Ham (jamon), 478, 635, 1095, 1127,
1339, 1635, 1638, 1967

Hammers, 1603

Hammocks, 180, 182, 185, 187, 1810

Hampay, v. Ampa

Hanan (Ica), 1353; Hananica, 1322,
1833

Hananguanca, 1841; -cas, 1305f.

Hananpuchas, 1835

Hancay, 1334

Hancoallu, 1549; Ancocala? cf. Hun-
coallo

Haneyungas, 1838

Hannibal, 1479

Hanno, 30

Haquira (Aq- V), 1873

Harac (Quivira), 556

Harauec, 1504; more commonly Ara-
vico

Hares, 510

Harquebus stands, 2018

Harquebusses, 156, 275, 2021

Harquebussiers, 420ff., 1056, 1202,
1204, 1214, 1287, 1302, 1962,
19005, 2014

Harvest, 1390

Hat makers, 1233

Hats, 1171, 1772, 1779, 1784, 1810

Hatun, v. Atun

Hatun Cancha, 1503

Hatuncaymana, 1869

Hatunchillo, 1571

Hatunhuailas (-guay- V), 1376f.

Hatunjauja, v. Atunjauja

Hatunllulla, 1757f.

Hatunlucana, 14390

Hatunsura, 1436

Hatun Yauyus, 1325

Haumai, v. Umay

Haura, 1316

Havana, 4, 106, 280, 203ff., 323, 808,
830, 835f., 865

Hawks, 587; v. Birds

Haya, Matéo de, 273

Health, 892, 911

Hebrew, Ioff., 7off., 1372
characteristics, 71
Hechicero, 422; vy. Wizards
Hecilchakan (Jequelchacan V), 351
Hell, 763ff., 1343, 1477
Hellos, 2014
Hemp, 1924f., 2017
cloth, 1292
seed, 1759
Henao, Alonso de, 1210
Henares (Spain), 527
Henares Lezama, Diego de, 162, 263,
266f., 2736.
Henequén (agave), 690, 732, 755, 932,
045, 954f., 980f., 1045, 1063,
TITS; Li2i, T1192
Heredia, Nicolas de, 1682
, Pedro de, 908

Heresies, Heretics, 7, 204, 221, 275,
312

Hermandad, 920, 1232, 1667; v. Con-
fraternity

Hermit, 1398
Hermosillo, Gonzalo, 535, 877
Hernandez, Bartolomé, 1708

de Cordoba, Francisco, 342, 712,

733
Jiron (Gi- V), Francisco, 103,
1260, 1352, 1544, 1610ff.
Herons, 1791, 1819, 1975
Herradura, La, 1992
Herraje (-axe V), 2021; literally
ironwork, but used in Chile
for silver harness ornament
Herrera, Antonio de, 431, 605, 737
, Batazar de, 356
Pedro de, 1672
y Tordesillas, Antonio de, 404
Hides, 104, 120, 164, 257, 273, 330, 306,
701, 936, 967, 1816, 1824
Hierba, v. Yerba
Hieronymites, 105
Hierro, agua de, 1658
Highlanders, 305
Highways, v. King’s
Higueras, Las, 604
Higttey: Yguey, 803; Iguei, 109
Hilabaya, 1863, 1885; also Hlabaya
Hilay, 1387f., 1392f.; Islay?
Hilo, 1400f., 1863
Hinojosa, Diego de, 2020
, Jeronimo de, 2020
Hirrihiagua, 306
Hispaniola (Santo Domingo and
Elaiti), 2% 50; O8ft., 103) 280;
291, 803, 824, 830, 836
Hocaba, 355
Hoes, 2018
Hogazuela, 1367
Hogs, wild, 792, 1081, 1455
Holguin, Capt. Garcia, 431
, Martin de Almendras, 1678
Pedro Alvarez, 1475, 1689, 1748

822

Homun, 351; Hu-, 339
Honda (Onda V), 1039, 1047
Hondable (deep), 103, 604

Hondaycoca, 1162
Honduras, 87, 345, 560, 692ff., 816,

826, 832, 84of., 866, 881, 1406,
1942

Honey, 1043, 1690, 1694, 1734ff., 1774,
1803, 1810, 1812, 1819, 1948

Honorato, Fray, 550

Honorius, Emperor, 67

Horcas de Chaves, 168o0f.

Horses, 577, 1128, 1194, 1774, 1800,
1822, 1831, 1916, 1937
Hospital administration, 1272ff., 1453,

1708ff
Hospital income, 453ff., 1273f., 1364,
1450, 1453, 1460f., 1601, 1667,
1708, 1710, 1832ff., 1930, 2019
Hospital Superintendents, 862, 1272,

1453, 1667, 1709, 1930, 2013

Hospitals, 107, 117, 123, 132, 218, 259,
290, 308, 364, 360, 374f., 387,
453ff., 480, 493, 498, 501, 504,
522, 537, 540, 542, 573, 617,
644, 692, 700, 702, 713, 718,
774 862, 889, O17, 935; 947,
953, 959, 970, 1028, 1006, 1082,
1094, II1I0, 1127, I192, 1236,
1248, 1255, 1268, 1272ff, 1201,
1346, 1353, 1364, 1390, 1430,
1450, 1453, 1461, 1470, 1601f.,
1627, 1635, 1637, 1639, 1667,
1680, 1705, 1708, 1772, 1781,
1797, 1828, 1832ff., 1921, 1930,
1945, 2010, 2050

Hot springs, etc., 651, 660f., 963, 1082,
1109, 1129, 1182f., 1472, 1640,
1972

House painters, 1934

Houses, 1194, 1367, 1380, 1635, 1699

Hoz, Pedro Sanchez de la, 1989

Hu., v. Gu-

Huaca, v. Guaca

Huacachaca, 1544

Huacapuncu, 1498, 1504; Gua-, 1498

Huacho (Gu- V), 1323, 1443, 1450ff.,

1621, 1630

Huachos (Gu- V) Chocorvos, 1855

Huacra (Gu- V), 1366

Huacrachuco (Gu- V), 1326; Hua-
crachucu, 1563; cf. Guaora-
chuco, 1838

Huaicapata, 1505

Huaicho (Guaycho V), 1884; Huay-
chu, 1542

Huailas (Guaylas V), 1218, 1365,

1371, 1376ff., 1556, 1580, 1837,
2059

Huailillas (Guaylillas V), 1327

Huaillabamba (Guayabamba
1144; Guayobanba, 1871

Huaillamarca (Guay- V), 1643

V),

INDEX

Huaillamisa (Guay- V), 1873
Huaillay (Guay- V), 1854
Huaitara (Guay- V), 1458, 1553, 1855
, San Juan de, 1455
Huajolotitlan (Guax- V),
Guaxilo-, 851
Huajotitlan (Guax- Vi); 505. 518.
Huajuapan (Guaxuapa V), 511, 851
Hualla (Gu- V), 1434, 1436, 1871
Huallaripa (Gu- V), 1483
Hualpa (Gu- V), 1649
Rimachi, Inca, 1534
Tupac, 1590
Huamachuco (Gu- V), 1154, I161,
1178, 1180, 1556, 1850, 2059
Huamalies (Gu- V), 1321, 1326, 1334,
1362, 1365, 1360, 1375, 1556,
1838, 1840, 2041
de Mocon, 1838
Huamanga, v. Guamanga
Huamanguaca (Gu- V), 1458
Huamanguilla (Guamangilla V),
Huamanpalpas (Gu- V), 1874
Huamantanga, 1324; Gu-, 1305, 1308,

1835
Huambos (Gu- V), 116rf.,
1850; Huambas?
Huamocho, 1849
Huanca (Gu- V), El, 1838
Hanan, 1841
Lurin, 1841
Ollo, 1872
Huancabamba (Gu- V), 1162, 1327,
1563, 1851; Guanaca-, 1177
Huancallo: Guancaio, 1309, 1325; -yo,

SII;

1430

1177, 1170,

1832; -yu, 1338; also Huan-
cayo

Huancané: Gu-, 1530, 1614, 1616;
-ni, 1883

Huancarlara (Gu- V), 1879

Huancarma: Guancaramas, -camaras,
1310; -rama, 1878; -ruma,
1435

Huancas (Gu- V), Los, 1190, 1463,
1466, 1555, 1849

Huancasco (Gu- V), 1884

Huancavelica (Gu- V), 1304, 1300,
1320, 1332, /1343,,1354) 1405,
1431, 1443, 1452, 146aff.,
1470ff., 1473, 1549, 1575, 1650,

1657, 1854, 1903, 1947, 2042,
2059; v. Oropesa
Huancavilcas, 1572; Gu-, 1570
Huancayo, v. Huancallo
Huanchaco (Gu- V), 1160
Huanchay (Guanchay? -uy? V), San
Matéo de, 1326

Huancollo (Gu- V), 1873; Huan-
callo?
Huancoyro (Gu- V), 1737

Huando (Gu- V), 1463

Huandoval (Gu- V), 1328

Huangasca (Gu- V), San Juan de,
1459

INDEX 823
Huanta (Gu- V), 1338, 1414, 1431, Huaxpaltepec (Guaspaltepeque V),
1433f., 1856, 1903, 2042; v. 511, 851
Sangaro Huaxteca (Guasteca V), 80, 468f.;
Huantar (Gu-), 1328, 1372 -COS, 509
Huanuco (Gu- V), 1301, 1321, 1325, Huaxtepec es V), 475

1334, 1361ff., 1368, 1379, 1525,
1504f., 1852, I90I, 2041, 2048,
2050, 2059

El Viejo, 1361, 1369, 1375

, Icho, 1838

Ovas, 1838

Huanuquito (Gu- V), 1875

Huaqui (Gu- V), 1312, 1625

Huar (Gu- V), Santo Domingo de,
1328

Huarac, 1537

Huaras (Gu- V), 1328, 1837, 2059; cf.
Guara

Huarca (Gu- V), 1305

Huari (Guat Vi) 502365, 13721t.,.1376,

155
Huari (Guari V), San Luis de, 1328
, Santo Domingo de, 1328
Huari Allauca, 1839
Huari Icho, 1839
Huari Obraje (mill), 2059
Huariaca (Gu- V), San Juan de,
1327; (Huanuco), 1366
Huariambare (Gu- V), 1812
Huarigancha (Gu- V), Mancha, 1326;
Guariguancha, 1838
Huarina our VP, 1541 a1S03) 1632;
I
Huaripampa (Gu- V), 1338
Huarmey (Gu- V), 1221, 1202,
1324, 1560; -mei, 1847
Huaro (Gu- V), 1869
Huarochiri (Guarocheri V), 1321,
1326; Guadachiri, 1309, 1334,
1337, 1842, 2041
(Guarochiri V), Mitimas de, 1844
Huarpes (Gu- V), 1931, 1933f.
Huarrachape (Gu- V), 1869
Huascar (Gu- V), 1869

1316,

Inca, 1092, 1535, I570ff., 1583ff.,
1587, 1594
Huascarquiguar (Gu- V) del Rey,
1869
Huasco (Gu- V), 1562, 1g1of., 1980,
1987

Huatas (Guatos V), 1855

Huatlatlauca (Gu- V), 849; -aucca,
392

Huatulco (Gu- V), 403, 511, 813, 850;
-cf. Gueytulpa

Huatusco, v. San Antonio

Huauhchinango, vy. Guachinango

Huaura (Gu- V), 1222, 1335, 1834,
185I, 1901, 2041; Gaura, 1316

Huautla (Gu- V), 810, 862; Quau-,
475, 831, 837

Huaxolotitlan: Guaxo-, 511; Guaxi-,
851; Guaxotitlan, 505, 518

Brethren of, 374, 4

Huayacocotla (Gu- Va)y, ie 846; -lan,
468, 480

Huayllas Nusta, Inés, 1595

Huayna Capac, 1514; Gu-, 1082, 1092,
1424, 1492, 1506, 1512, 1535,
1561, 1571 ff., 1580, 1587, 1580,
1501; 1505, 1914; Guaynacapa,
1092

Huayuri (ee V ) 513155, 408i, (1333;
1359; -Ori, 1360

Hubates (N. Mex.), 567

Hueco (wide), 1608

Huehuetlan (Gueguetlan V), 581,

818

Huehuetocal (Gueguetoca V), 487

Huejotzingo: Huechocinco, 3990;
Huexocinzo, 385, 397; Guejo-
zingo, 822, 840; Guajosingo,
385, 392, 430

Huevas (fruit), 1016

Huex, Rio (N. Mex.), 555

Hueypoxtla (Gueypustla V), 464, 845

Hueytlalpan (Gueytlalpa V), 3901, 848

Huistla (Gu- V), 632

Hulls, 2019

Humahuaca, v. Omaguaca

Human sacrifices, 63f., 340, 418

Humay, v. Umay

Hummingbirds, 490

Humors, 1219, 1721, 1723

, choleric, 1723

Humun, 339; v. Ho-

Huncoallo, 1554; cf. Hancoallu

Hunucma (Hunacama V), 351

Huringuanacas, 1305f.

Huronpichas, 1835

Hurtado de Mendoza, Garcia,
1279, 1440, 1470, 1695,
1955, 1957, 1064, 1974

Hyrcanus, 66

1272;
1701,

I

Tauregui, Lope de Salcedo, 1043, 1048,

1051

Vagué, 946, 2035; Ybague,

1049; Yvague, 1896

Ibarra, v. Ybarra

Ica (also Yca, V), 1290, 1202,
E3TG; pl 320it ae Tassie
1353ff., 1357, 1387, 1432,
1557, 1833, 1901, 2031,
2059

la Vieja, 1354, 1357
Rio de, 1352, 1360, 1611

Icaco (Chrysobalanus icaco), 240

Iceland, 27

Ichiaha, 316

Ichmul (Ychimul V), 356

Ibagué:

1306,
1345,
1440,
2038,

824

Icho (Ichu V), 1616; -Pincos, 1839;
Hicho-, 1328; (Stipa icho),
1444, I511, 1638, 1926; ichu,
1473, 1620

Huanuco (Gu- V), 1838

Idols, Idolatry, 58, 396, 417, 422, 1086,
1365, 1416, 1438, 1464, 1559,
1609, 1621

, talking, 1559

Idumaea, 31

Iguala, v. Yguala

Iguanas, IQI, 1022

TIguari, 1323

Ilaba, v. Ulaba

Ilave: Ilabe, 1619;
Aylavi, 1312

Illancucitl, 399

Illegitimacy, 1521

Illimo, 1845; YIl-, 1161

Ilo (Hilo V), 1400f., 1863

Ilocos, 772, 861

Image, holy, 372, 385, 605, 699, 954,
TRIOM 1243)" “1250, =r300f.

Hilave, 1540;

1623ff.
Imperial, La (Chile), 1330, 1912, 1944,
1950, 1953, 1956f., 1960ff.,
1975, 1993, 1995, 2000f., 2019
Inaja (Englerophoenix regia), 985
Inambari (Ana- V), Rio de, 1614
Inca (Inga V), Don Carlos, 1593
, Melchior Carlos, 1593
Roca, 1591.
Inca administration, I500ff., 1535, 1559
Inca education, 1498, 1504f., 1551, 15590
Inca religion, 1511ff.
Incas, and their architectural remains,
70, 70, 78, VIO, LTLOLs, L127,
1147ff., 1187, 1189, 1339, 1343,

1361f., 1372, °\ 1375, 1384,
1463f.,, 1474ff., 1477, 1479,
1480, 1502ff., 1505, 1524f.,
1526ff., 1520, 1533ff., 1537,

1565, 1568, 1584ff., 1593, I610,
1621, 1631, 1710
Income from Indians, 920f., 1305, 2048
Income taxes (censo sobre la_ haci-
enda), 1708, 1710
Increased population, 1102
Indé, v. Yndehé
India, Indians of India, 11f., 29, 781
Indian annals, 1536
architecture and art, 165, 342,
423, 490, 515, 560, 1087, 1148,
1184, 1189, 1361, 1367, 1373,
1380, 1420, 1463, 1475ff., 1532,
1623, 1630, 1635
astronomy, 182, 1497, 1540, 1802
burial and funeral rites, 66ff.,
183ff., 314, 316, 1090, 1563,
1570f., 1609, 1803, 1830
characteristics, 71, 185, 688ff.,
1173, 1183ff., 1188, 1190, 1202,

1964

INDEX

clothing, costumes, 71, 165, 181,
276, 349, 303, 514, 551f., 554f.,
560, 562ff., 566, 577, 582f.,
635, 637, 686, 727, 750, 940f.,
952, 1086f., I09I, I116, 1176,
TLOSH 1200) 41202) T1501, 1523)
1609, 1615, 1711, 1802

community income, 2048

community organization, 489, 501,
579, 726, 1097, 1108, 1184,
1230, 1368, 1633, 1635, 2048,
2058

community property, 1456ff.,
1460f., 1o4rf.

community record book, 579

community treasuries, 1457, 146of.

customs, 18off., 183ff., 187ff., 975,
To87i., 1008t., “F219, 1464:
1802ff.

featherwork, 426, 490; v. Feather

food and drink, 1750ff.; v. Bever-
ages

languages, 60, 7off., 149, 186, 223,
356f., 448, 490, 514, 518, 576,
800, 900f., 1275, 1440

manufactures, II71

marriage customs, 1I85f.,
1538ff., 1555, 1820f.

officials, 862; v. Administration,
Administrator

ornaments, 514, 756, 941,
II2I, 1202, 1802

religion, religious rites, 63ff., 75.
516, 518, 560, 503, 996, 1023,
1086, 1403f., 1486, 1523, 1559,

1416,

1087,

T5O2)"" 917225 va Idolatry;
Soothsayers, Sorcerers, Wiz-
ards; Sacrifices, Human
Sacrifices

service system, 995, 1042, 1066,
1083; v. Encomienda, Re-
partimiento

shelters, v. Galpén

statistics, 1832

tactics, 2003

tribute, 51, 175, 197, 357, 396, 400,
404, 481, 513, 838, 1097, 1108,
1302, 1305ff., 1428, 1455ff.,
1450f., 1477, 1568, 1832ff.,
1852, 1858, 1880, 1894, 2048

wars (Chile), 107

weapons, 1064, I1086ff., 1204; v.
Arrows, Dardos, Estolica,
Lances, Macanas

writing, 1475

Indians, friendly, 2011, 2019

, treatment of (and Negroes), 48,
ST, OG, 102 TiS wei2olnae tad
175, 182, 200, 271, 270, 334,
376f., 695, 609, 756f., 902, 905,

934, 995, 1025, 1189, 1211,
1257f,,. 1273) 4281; 5365;
1390ff., 1440f., 1446, 1450,

INDEX 825
1453, 1455, 1471, 1541, 1601f., Isla (clump of trees, hammock), 1689
1643, 1651ff., 1663, 1935, , Cabo de, 1984
1941f., 2018, 2050 Fuerte, 928
Indigo, 636, 656f., 650, 673ff., 1778 de Lobos, 473

Indios vacos (Indians disposable in an
encomienda), 411, 1660, 1772,
1795
Inengaibas (Caribs), 214
Infante, Francisco, 263, 265
Infantry, 1299
Infirmary, 1248, 1272ff.; v. Hospitals
Inga, v. Inca
Ingas Gualparocas, 1891
Ingenio (mill) (Ica), 1322, 1324, 1360,
1380, 1432; v. Ventilla
de Valdés (Santa), 1324
, Valle del, 1292, 1333
Ink, 1452, 2018
Inocentes, Los (Chile), 1985
Inquisition, 268, 458, 885, 923,
1282ff., 1429, 2049
Insane Asylum, 456, 1272
Inspectors, Boat, 946, 2046
, Carmelite (Visitador), 444
Cochineal, 392, 482, 863, 885
Collections, 2058
Community property, 1942
Factory, 862
Featherwork, 490
Gristmill, 1192
Highway, 482, 862, 885
Hog slaughterhouse, 862
Leather, 862
Mine, 525
Mita, 1652
Ore, 1435
Plantation, 860, 863, 885
Pulque, 486
Slaughterhouse, 862
Sugar mill, 482, 862, 885
Water, 2059
Weights and measures, 460, 486,
1232, 1703, 1707
Woolen mill, 377, 392, 482, 885,
1147, 1230, 1370, 1633, 1942
Insubordination, 735
Interpreters, 1200, 1207
-General, 2012
Intipampa, 1503, 1521
Tohuallatonac, 399
Ipecacuanha, 254
Iraurigui (Spain), 266
Iron, 594, 768, 97 76, 1129, 1526,
1798, 1811, 2018
Irrigation, 475, 1204, 1333, 134If.,
1349f., 1355, 1363, 1417, 1547,
1553, 1574, 1607, 1639, 1733,
1749, 1760, 1772, 1777, 1782,
1936, 1957, 1979
Irruibalcaya, Nuestra Sefiora de (in
town of Re ), 1154
Isac (Colombia), 60

12206,

1655,

Margarita (Santo Domingo),
de Negros, 772, 861
Isquiliza, 1416
Isquifia, 1416
Isquuintepeque, 92;
Esq-
de los Deteles 851; Yscui-, 511
Israel, Ten Tribes ‘of, 46, siff., 6off.
Issachar, 46f., 51
Istepeque, 650; cf. Yxtepexi
Istlavaca, 831, 837; Yxt-, 479; Ixtla-
huacan, Ixtlahuaca
Itacoatiara (-cua- V), 223
Italians, 1706; v. Genoese
Itapaya, v. Titipaya
Itata (Chile), 1945, 1950, 2047; Yt-,

Itzcuintepec; cf.

19901; (Peru), 1630
Rio de, 1992
Itatines, 1603; cf. Lita-
Itoto, 977

Iuanas (Nuanas also, V), 213

Iudit (Colombia), 60

Ixcateopa, 846; Yx-, 465; -pan?

Ixmiquilpan (Ismiquilpa V), 464, 845 °

Ixtapalapa (Ista- V), 430

Izalcos (Is- V), 641, 645, 654

Izamal (Ytzmal V), 350

Izatlan, 525; Ys-, 855; Izatla?
Ixtlan?

Izcoatl, 401

Izcuzan, 307

Iztacmixcoatlh, 307

Izucar, v. Ys-

J
J-, v. X-
Jabalies, 1688
Jacarés (Xa- V),
Jaconas ve Xa
Jaén de Bracamoros, 1139, 1162, 1160,
I196f., 1902, 2031, 2037, 2059
Jagua (inaja tree), 985
Jaguars, v. Tiger
Jagueyes (also Xa- V) (wells), 247,
1173, 1332, 1359, 1755, 1920
Jalacingo: Xalaz-, 392, 849; Jalos-,

525
Jalapa eee V), 366, 368ff., 301, 811,
848,
del Marqués, 511, 852
Jalca, 1849; La Xa-, 1162, 1190, 1338
Jalisco (Xa- V), 523, 557, 604
Jalofas (stinging ants), 187
Jamaica, 106, 324ff., 808, 830, 835, 865,

871
Jancobaba, 1868
Japan, 778, 781
Japhet, 17, 44
Jaqui (Xaque V), 1315

214; cf. Xa-

826 INDEX

Jarama (Spain), 1526
Jar-bursters (quebrantatinajas, a kind
of red grapes), 662
Jarcia (Xa- V) (cordage mill), 2059
Jaso, v. Xaso
Jasper, 467
Jauja (Xauxa V), 1305f., 1300, 1321,
1334, 1338f., 1349, 1366, 1368,
1423, 1462, 1555, 1593, 1649,
1841, 2041, 2059
, Rio de, 1433
Tambo, 1309
Jayanca, 1172, 1306, 1845; Xa-, 1162;
Ha- 1574
Jejenes (gnats), 1117, 1386
Jeme (Xeme V), 643, 1117; distance
from end of thumb to end of
forefinger extended; .139 m.,
53 in.
Jequelchacan, 351
Jequetepeque: Xe-, 1846; Xetepeque,
1166
Jerez (Xerez V) (Argentina), 1812;
(Guatemala), 667, 815;
Xeres, 632{.; today Cholu-
teca; (Mexico), 819; (Para-
guay), IQII
Jergueta (stuff), 1779, 1784
Jerome, 66
Jerénimo; always Ge- in V
Jerusalem cross, 1701
. Jesuits, 218, 364, 373, 387, 448, 493,
504, 522, 527, 537, 540, 609,
615, 713, 718, 774, 880, 917,
047, 953, 959, 1004, 1252ff.,
1270, 128%, -§201,;1300,.4322,
1345, 1390, 1390, 1401f., 1430,
1506, 1600, 1619, 1625, 1627,
1637, 1646, 1666, 1690, 1705,
1710, 1767, 1772, 1777, 1781,
1797, 1790ff., 1804, 1828, 1927,
1929, 1932, 1945
Jestis (Cajamarca), 1161, 1179; (olive
grove), 1409
Maria (Huamalies), 1326
Jetudos (Ge- V) (fish), 1024
Jews, 6off., 85; v. Hebrews, Israel
Jibana (leaf), 326
Jibaros, 1112, 1128
Jicama (yam bean, Cacara erosa),
475, 982, 1799
Jicante (Gi- V) (plant), 727
Jicara (Xi- V) (the calabash tree),

604
Jilotepec (Xilotepeque V), 307, 464,
480, 845
Jiménez, v. Ximénez
Jipijapa (Xipixapa V), 1121, 1570
Jiquilite : a V) (indigo plant),

73it.
Jiquilpan (Xiquilpa V), 503, 854
Jiquipilco (Xi- V), 480
Jiquirna (Xi- V) (root), 1726

Jirajaras (Girrarras V), 276
Jiron, Francisco Hernandez, 1260,
1610; Gi-, 103, 1352, 1544,
1611f.
Joan, Queen, 548
Jobos (plums), 162, 227, 285, 983
Jocotenango, 227; Xo-, 618, 620
Jocotes = jobos (Spondias purpurea),
227, 285, 620, 983, 1015
Jojutla (Guaxutla V), 465, 832, 846
Jolotitlan (Xo- V), 480
Jonutla, v. Xonotla
Jora (Guadalajara), 523, 819; Jora
Viejo?; (Jura V) (beverage,
——azla)). Teo
Jornada (daily expeditionary pay),
1207
Josephus, 66
Juan, Juana; almost always Joan,
Joana, in V
Juan Fernandez Islands, 1980
Juchipila (Su- V), 525, 557
Judges, 1215, 1270; v. Inspectors, Juez,
Justices
Juez de Agua, 2059
Juez de Canoas, 2046, 2058
Juez de Cobranzas, 2058
Juez Conservador, 1270
Juez de Ingenios, 862
Juez de Milpas, 860, 1942
Juez Repartidor, 482, 862
Jugs, 1358
Jujuy (Xuxuy V) (Paraguay), 1806
, San Salvador de, 1743, 1764ff.,
1786, 1817, 1907, 1914
Julcamarca, 1434
Juli (also Julli, V), 1312; Jule, 1540,
1619
Juliaca: Jullaca, 1610, 1866; Julliaca,
Juliaco, 1311
Julian, Don, 1054
, Pedro, 1672
Julioma, 1632
Jumanos (N. Mex.), 560
Junta de Guerra, 275, 919, 922
Juntas, Las, 1767, 1907
Junto, 1915
Jureles (fish), 1752
Juries (Indians), 1778
Juros (annuities) de los Indios, 1302
(chapter heading), 1305
Jurunas (Xurutinas V), 214
Justices, 1837ff., 1848, 2022ff.; v.
Courts
, salaries of, 1837ff., 2050
Juzgado Mayor de Bienes de Difuntos
(Probate Court), 1702, 1706

K

Kettledrums, 1284

Keys, 1457, 1461

King’s Highway (Camino Real;
Camino del Inca), 366, 370,

INDEX

372, 492, 499, 504, 510, 579,
583, 600, 732, 752, 1062, 1064,
1080, 1082, 1093, 1102, 1108,
IIIO, 1114, 1127, 1130, 1148ff.,
1184, 1205, 1317, 1339, 1361,
1423f., 1430f., 1434, 1474,
1479, 1482f., 1540, 1578, 1603,
1608ff., 1626, 1636, 1638, 1643,
1733, 1957

Kings-at-Arms, 1288

Knives, I, 1692, 1770

iL

Labor, forced, v. Mita

Labrador, 27, 34, 50

Labradores (farmers), 1342

Labyrinth, 1534

Lacandon (fruit), 680

Lacandones (Indians), 90, 338, 574,
582, 672

Lace, 1192

Lacre (sealing wax), 1958

Ladinos (of Indians who have adopted

Spanish ways), 727, 1192,
1935, 2004

Ladrones Islands, 768

Lagnama (? ‘Tagnama?), 1416;

Nama?
Laguna, La, de Bay 772, 861
, La, Grande (Nicaragua), 714,
745, 749
La, de Leon, 744; Menor, 733
La, Rio de, 1085
Lagunillas (La Lagunilla V), 1313,

1730
Laibato (Lay- V), 1683
Laja (Laxa V), 1626, 1884; Allaxa,
1312
Channel, 362
, Rio de la, 1958
Lajas (Laxas. V), Las (Colombia),
1028, 1806
de Plata, 1041
Lakes, 1445
Lamay, 1871
Lambayeque, I161, I17I, 1316, 1574,
1845; also -beye- in 1316
Lampa, 1866; -as, 1843; Lanpas, 1305.
1307
Lamparones (scrofula), 1722
Lampas, Collana de, 1327
Lampian, 1324
Lamps, 1623ff., 1666
Lanas (fruit), 162
Lafiasca, 1305; Nasca?
Lancers, 1302
Lances, 975, 998, 1064, 1086ff.
Lanchas (gunboats), 1208
Lanchero, Luis, 975
Languisupa, 1868; Languis?
Lapa (animal; paca?), 160, 730
Laquall, 1575

827

Lara, Juan Alonso de, 358

Laramarca, La Concepcion de, 1455

Laraos, 1305f., 1325, 1841, 1844

Larecaja (Arecaxa V), 1542, 1628f.,
1885, 2044

Lari Collagua, 1859

Lascanga, Pachas, 1838

Laso (Lasso V) de la Vega, Gabriel,

437
Latacunga (La Ta- V), 1100, 1108,
1143, 1146, 1525, 1571, 1900,
2045, 2059
Late, 1322; Lati, 1832
Latin, 358, 1710
Latiri, 30; i.e., Ptolemy Lathyrus
Lautaro, Felipe, 1943, 2004f., 2007
Lavadero (Lab- V) (washing mill),
1448; (Chile), 1955
(Labapi V), 1954,
Lavarié?
Law of Nature, 1536, 1579
Lawyers, 921, 1270, 1276, 1697, 2059;
vy. Letrado ‘
Laxatives, 220, 514, 646, 658, 727,
FBS 78S), OL. TLoth.., 1722,
1808
Layosupa, 1868; Layo?
Lazadas (bowknots), 1711
Lead, 494, 514, 530, 594, 1209, 1447,
1486, 1651, 1655, 1657, 2020
League = 3.455 miles; 174 leagues
make a degree; 9. Another
league in common use was
sy of a degree
Leases, 1449, 1452
Leather, 332, 1096; v. Cordovan
Lebranche (Mugil brasiliensis), 248,
928; also -cho
Lebron, Cristobal, 105
Lebu (Lebo V), 1951,
2004f.
, Rio de, 1955, 1081
Lector, 1742
Ledesma, N. de, 1060
Legazpi (-aspi V), Miguel Lopez de,

Lavapié 1081 ;

1992, 2000,

771
Leguizamon (-isamo V), Mancia
Sierra de, 1513; (Legizamo

V), Juan Sierra de, 1580
Leimebamba, 1189; Ley-, 1162, 1848,

1850

Leiva (Leyva V), 954, 1806

Lemos (-mus V), Conde de, 1378,
1837, 1850

Lempa, Rio de, 650, 662f.

Lengua General (Quichua), 1455,
1459, 1501

Lentils, 1727, 1936
Léon (Mexico), 503, 814, 853; (Nica-
ragua), 7106, 732ff., 738ff., 758,
817, 1407; (Spain), 1363
, New Kingdom of, 712
Rio de (Tucuman), 1764

CO
bo
#”

Rio del (Darién), 996
Antonio de, 1363
Juan Fernandez de, 278
Juan Ponce de, 115f., 141, 305
Pablo Mexia de, 1672
Leonor, Dona, 158of.
Lepomande, 2000, 2002
Lerma (Tucuman), 1766, 1787, 1907
Letrado (with law degree), 921
Lettuce, 1725
Leucoton, 2000, 2002
Levantine, 1442
Levanto, 1190, 1563
Levi oath, 1289
Leytezamaribabao, 772, 861
Lezama, Antonio de, 162
. Diego de Henares,
273K:
Juan de, 156f,,
Libamo, 318
Licapa mill, 1160
Lice, 1567
Licentiate (degree), 1276
Lichiguanas (bees), 1694, 1736
Lienzo (cloth), 1784
Lieutenants, 2014
Lightning, 1516
Lignum vitae, v. Guaiacum
Ligua, La, 1924
Lilies, 1725
Lilisti (animal), 1741
Lillas y Ovina (?), Francisco de, 2021

162, 266f.,
162, 266, 273f.

Lima, 458, 1157, 1224ff., 1301, 1300,
1316, 1318f., 1327; 1331, 1336,
1349, 1364f. 1405, 1400f,,
1415, 1423f., 1428ff., 1559,
1595, 1604, 1852, I901, 2021,
2025, 2031, 2038, 204I1ff.,
2048ff., 2052, 2057, 2059

Rio de, 1298

Limari, 1923

Limatambo (Limitanbo and -mbo V),
1310, 1489

Lime, 1655

Linchupa (bee), 1734

Lincoya, 1955, 1992, 2000; Lincura?

Linen, 1690

Lions (pumas), 990, 1125, 1480, 1493,
1495, 1630, 1741

Lipas, 1415
Lipez (Lipes V) (village), 1759
, Los, 1343, 1552f., 1645, 1744f.,
17471, 1750f., 1765, 1804,

1906, 1987, 2043
San Vicente en Los, 1746
Lipis ie V) (copper sulfate),
1759

eiquidambar: 588, 705
Liquiman, 1784
Liranzo (-n¢go V), 182 ;
Lisa (a kind of mullet), 928,

1298, 1382, 1387, 1752
Litatines, Los, 1812; cf. Ita-

1175,

INDEX

Livitaca, 1876

Lizard, 1793

Llalli, 1866

Llama (Cajamarca), I161

Llamas, 36f., 1096, 1180, 1184,
1194, 1333, 1339, 1354,
1367, 1375, 1379, 1391f.,
1412f., 1415, 1417f., 1432,
1438, 1447, 1459, 1471,
1480, 1483, 1485, 1487,
1606, 1609, 1615, 1625,
1636, 1643, 1653, 1665,

I

1189,
1359,
1409,
1436,
1473,
1603,
1632,
1741,

1752,
Llamellin, 1328
Llamoso, Antonio,
Llancueitl, 3907
Llanos, San Juan de los (Colombia),

1061. 1208

949, 1806; (Ecuador), 1088;
(Mexico), 392, 849

Llapo, 1328

Llares, 1871

Lliclla, 1362

Llimpi (vermilion), 1464, 1466

Lloc: Lloco, San Pedro de _ 1160,
1170; Alloque, San Pedro de,

1316
Lloque Yupangui, 1507, 1530f.,
Llusco Aymara, 1876
Lluta, 1414, 1416, 1863
Lluyna, 1608; Lluin?
Loayza (-ysa V), Jeronimo de, 1236,

1587

1273
Lobo, Guerrero, Bartolomé, 1235f.
Lobos marinos (seals, sea _ lions),
T3983, I405, “Wa20h, I75tits
1826

Locos, Los (Indians), 962, 965

Locumba, I4II, 1416, 1419, 1632,

Lodestone, 31t. 8 1750

Logrono de los Caballeros (Ecuador),
III2, 1128

1638

Loja (koxa Vi) Cécuador,) 5) sar00;
1102, 1127, 1130ff., 1143, 1145,
1266, 130I, 1900, I961, 1964,
1969, 2030, 2037, 2059
Loma (Peru), 1162
de la Fragua, 1004
Lomas, 1380f., 1384, 1387, 1393f., 1409,

I4II
Lombardy guns, 1216
Londres (Tucuman), 1778, 1788, 1907
Lonja (Exchange), 1707
Looms, 1783
Lépez, Gregorio, 446
, Jeronimo de, 1670
Martin, 428, 430
Lépez de Almeida, Gil, 111
Lopez de Galarza, Andrés, 1o4of.
Lopez de Legazpi (-spi V), Miguel,
771, 773
Lopez de la Pefia, Gutierre, 268, 1055,

1057
Lépez de Saavedra, Jerénimo, 1673

INDEX

Lopez de Salcedo, Diego, 712
Lopez de Sarria, 412

Lopez Serrato, Juan, 1212
Lopez de Zuniga, Diego, 604
Lorococha (-ric- V), 1434
Losada, Diego de, 263f.
Loyola (Ecuador), 1900

, Martin Garcia de, 1594, 1597,

1928, 1944, 1961, 1964, 1969,
1975

Loza, Francisco de, 446

Lubeck, 29

Lucanas, Los, 1304, 1333, 1380, 1423,
1431, 1436, 1439, 1486, 1548,
1853, 2042

Lugma (fruit), 1203; lugmo (tree),

é 1458; lucma? Lucuma sp.?
Lujan, Isabel de, 440, 548
, Rio de, 1831

Lumber, 1118, 1285, 1291f., 1716, 2017;
v. Sawmills, Timber

Luna, Moyos de, 1801

Lunahuana (-agu- V), 1305, 1308,

1323, 1332, 1557, 1836
Lupica, 1416

Luquin (Spain), 1038

Lurigancho (-ringa- V), 1305, 1307,
1322, 1832

Lurin, 1353

Lurinica, 1322, 1833

Lurucachi (-che V), 1311

Luya, 1162, 1194, 1563, 1849, 2041

Luzon, 770ff.
Lye, 37, 1339

M
M, 1065
Macanao, 123, 125, 120
Macanas (war clubs), 170f., 187, 243,
063, 975, 1803, 2007 _
Macangua (ex -guay, V) (bird), 1791
Macanguaca (plant), 17901
Macao, 12f.
Macareo, 192
Macari, 1866
Macas (root crop), 1367, 1446

(province), 1107, II10, 1128;
(town), 1844, v. Sevilla del
Oro
Macate, 1328
Macaws, 1701
Macha, 1314, 1546, 1676, 1889
Machaca, 1327, I551, 1881

Cachica? La Chica?, 1303
Machado, 1925, 1033
Machangara, I144, 1571
Machangarilla, 1144
Machanguay (-aguay V),
Machay, 1305
Machetes, 584
Machifaro, 1205
Machuca, Bernardo de Vargas,

1064
, Juan de Vargas, 140

1861

124,

829

Macier Pariente, Benito, 217, 220f.
Macinga, 1871
Macma, Mitimas de, 1844
Macollas (clusters), 1417
Macuilxochil (-Itxuchili V), 511, 851
Madriaga, Sancho de, 1669
Madrid, 446, 458, 462, 908, 1974

, Pedro de, 263
Madrigal, 1896
Maestre Escuela, v. Choirmaster
Maestro de la Camara de S.M., 531,

1675

Maestro de Capilla, 680
Magallanes, Capt., 252

, Fernando, 771
Magdalena (usually Mada- V),

(Peru), 1190; Mada-, 1164,

1167, 1295, 1305, 1307, 1322,
1832

, La, de Pisco, 13451.;) Mada-,
1322

Rio Grande de la, 3, 925, 930f.,

973, 993, 1002, 1024, 1030,

1033, 1039, 1047, 1051, 1064,
1007

Magellan, Straits of, 36, 1075ff.,
Magpies, 1208
Maguey, 303
Mahogany, 335
Maicaguuin, Rio de, 203
Maisi, Point, 289
Maize, 99; v. Corn
Majes (Mages V), Los, 1386
Cosus, 1862
Uraca, 1862
Makian (Maquien V), 794
Mal Abrigo, 1165, 1169
Mala, 1315, 1332, 1557
Malaca (Piura), 1851
Malambo, 930, 1243, 1250
Malapascua, 106
Malayo, 790, 795
Maldivia (Maldives), 779
Maldonado, Diego (The Rich), 1602
, Capt. Diego de, 1990, 2001,
2005f.
Jeronimo, de Buendia, 1709
, Juan Pacheco, 968, 972
Mariana, 1669
Malinalco, 464, 845
Malingas, 1851
Mallalauquén (-abau- V), 1966
Mallama, 1541, 1632
Malmaynas, Yanaguaras, 1873
Malocas (raids), 1969, 1992

1985

Malton, 1523; ‘“cabron pequefio”
(small he-goat), acc. to
Espasa

Malvenda, Maestro (author of “An-
tiquities”), 42, 62
Mama, 1308, 1326, 1842
Cariyllpay, 1548
Cava, 1540

830

Cora, 1539
Cuca, 1543
Huarque, 1560
Micay; I551
, Mitimas de, 1841
Ocllo, 1514, 1538, 1554, 1572
Mamaconas (nuns), 1476; -cunas,
1522, 1524
Mamaquilla, 1514
Mamé (language), 90
Mammee (fruit), 100, 226
Mamon (fruit), 162
Managua, 717, 745
Manaho (Yucatan), 341
Manaries, 1593; Manaré?
Manaso, 1610; Manasaya?
Mancha (Huamalies), 1838; (Spain)
1708
Huarigancha, 1326
Manchay, 1832
Manché, 338, 574, 672, 687; —Menche,
Yaxchilan
Manco, v, Mango
Mancora, 1851
Mancos, 1306: Mangos, 1325
(Mangos V), Mitimas, 1841, 1844
Mandinga, 58
Mandioc, 1799, 1815; v. Yucca
Mandones (foremen), 1456
Mangas (eccl. dress), 1710; (In-
dians), 1305, 1327; cf. Mancos
Mango Capac, (Ist Inca King), 75f.,
1484, 1490, 1492, 1500, 1502,
£500, I50E,. iS24. 1520,
1535ff. 1549, 1562ff., 1580,
1582, 1585, 1587f., 1608, 1618;

also Manco Capac; (son of
Huayna Capac), 1424ff.,
14771. 1482, 1589, 1591f., 1504,
1596

Mangos, v. Mancos

Mangroves, 729

Mani (Manj V), 350

Manila, sits 033771, 773th. 7s. Cel
828, 834, 842, 861, 867, 883
Manjon, Lucas, 530

Manoa, 165ff.

Manogasta, 1775

Manosso, 1866

Mansiche, 1160, 1163, 1167

Manso, Andrés, 1679

Manta, 1121, 1317, 1577

Mantas (blankets), 303

Manto, mujeres de, 1795

Manure, v. Fertilizer

Manzanedo, Bernardino, 105
Mapay, 1876

Mapimi, 542, 820

Mapires (baskets), 175

Mapocho, Rio, 1926, 1988
Mapuazes (Caribs), 214

Mapueyes (Indians; “Yams”), 173
Maquegua (fort), 1962, 1993

INDEX

Mar, de la (Margarita), 125
, Bermejo, 532
Mara (tree), 1714
Maracaibo, 278ff., 282, 800, 967, 972
Maracapana, 126, 1215
Maracas, 148
Maracayu, 180o6ff.
Maract, Rio, 223
Maranga, 1305, 1308
Marangani (Mayan- V), 1868
Marafion (village; San Luis de M.),

218
, Rio, 28, 58, 123, 126, 165, 200ff.,
223,)1051, ‘TOOL, TIT, Tor

1198ff., 1338, 1363, 1433, 1435,
1732; v. Amazon
Maras, 1871
Marata (N. Mex.), 551
Marataca, Rio de, 204
Maravatio (-raba- V), 503, 854
Maravedi: coin, 34 to a real
Marca, 1328, 1837
Marcapata, 1870
Marcasite (Margajita), 976
Marcavélica: Maraca-, 1851; Marca-
vilca, 1555
Marcelo, Carlos, 1156, 2052
Marcilla (Marsi- V), 664
Mares, 10937
Margarita, 106, 121ff., 131, 178, 196f.,
199, 245, 247, 805, 830, 835f.
IO5If., 1213ff.
, Valle de la, 805
Maria (tree, Calophyllum
985
Maria, Dona, 1123
Maricanchi, Inca, 1534
Marieco (Tidore), 795
Marigalante, 1; also Maria Galante
Mariguines (Indians), 210
Marin Negron, Diego, 1804
Marina, 424
Marinduque, 772, 861
Marineo, De (Lucio Marineo Siculo,
1460-1533), 62
Mariquina, 1904
Mariquita, 946, 948ff.,
1896, 2029, 2035
Mariveles, 861; Marvieles, 772
Marjoram, 1725
Mark, silver; v. Silver
Markets, 436, 1045
Marmalade, 1799
Marmolejo, Moyos de, 1891
Marquez, Jeronimo, 534
Marriage customs, v. Indian
Martens, 314
Martin, Cristobal, 2053
, Lope, 1352, I611
Pedro, 995
Martin de Alcantara, Francisco, 1262
Martinetes (egrets), 1775
Martinez de Rengifo, Juan, 1253

calaba),

1002, 1030,

INDEX

Marvieles, v. Mariveles
Masaya, 717, 747{., 758, 860
Masca de Otalo, 1871
Mascanul, 351; Maxcanu,
Mexcanul

Mascas, 1146, 1875
Masons, 1934
Masques, 2042; Masqui?
Mass, Iof., 62, 1437

, fees for, 1666
Master of the Horse, 1288
Mastic, 589
Masts, 2019
Mataca, 545; ex -ata, 1645
Matacumbe (Fla.), 310
Matahuasi: -guasi, 1338; -guaci, 1325
Matalista (-te V), 635, 646
Matalzingo, 478, 503, 854; Matlatzingo
Matamano, 289; also Batabano
Matanza, La, 963
Matanzas, 304

formerly

Mataraes (fruit, Baccharis ferru-
ginea), 162

Matarino, 3

Mataroni, 188

Mate (pumpkin), 1344; (tea), v.

Yerba santa
Mateare (-tia- V) de las Mojarras,

744

Matehey (bee), 1735
Matehuala (-gua- V), Sierra de, 530
Maternity Hospital, 917
Matienzo, Juan Ortiz de, 105
Matier, 797
Mato (fruit), 232, 7190
Matorral (-oral V), 1422
Mats, 1171, 1801, 1814
Matucana, San Juan de, 1326
Maule, 1938f., 2047

, Rio, 76, 1476, 1562, 1938, Igorf.
Mauleon, Matéo de Navarra y, 442
Mauras, 973
Mavila, 317, 319; Mobile?
Maxcalcinco, 397; Mexicatzinco
Maya antiquities, 342, 607
Mayangani, 1868; Marangani?
Mayapan, 340
Mayas (fruit), 162
Maynas, III3
Maynimbi (bird), 1791
Mayor, por (in general), 10

y minor, por (in fine detail?),

II

, Donia Totora de, 1893
Mayorazgo, v. Entail
Mayordomo, vy. Steward, Superinten-

dent
Mayta Capac, 1507, 1540ff., 1587;
Mai-, 1552

Mazacin, 399

Mazamorra (porridge), 108, 1628
Mazapil (Masa- V), 820
Mazariegos, Diego de, 560f.
Mazateca (Masa-), 518

Mazato (beverage), 180, 187

Mecache, 1851

Mecasuchil (plant), 682

Mecate (cord), 303

Mechatomecomo, 1851

Mechoacan (Ipomoea sp.), 507, 514,
635, 645, 1722; (locality), v.
Michoacan

Mecoretas, 1822

Medellin (Spain), 508

, Rio de, 371, 509

Medicine, medicinal plants, 253f., 326,
366, 370, 393, 507, 500, 600,
646, 640, 652, 662, 681ff., 685,
779, 788, 983, 1117, 1163, 1167,

EZ0l; | 1458.0" 1468; U7 17th.
1720ff., 1737, 1750, 1772, 1806,
1972, 2019

Medina del Campo, 1595

Mejillones (Mex- V), 105

Mejorada, La (Peru), 1338; (Spain),
105

Melancholia, 1724

Meléndez de Avilés, Pedro, 308

Meléndez de Valdés, Juan, 1013, 1028,
1042

Melgarejo, Ferdinando, 320

Melinge (coarse linen), 675, 1356

Melipilla, 2047; Mili-, 1930f., 2021
Melons, 1171, 1818
Menché, v. Manché
Méndez, Diego 111, 2050
Méndez de Ocampo, Ensign, 462

y Sotomayor, Fernando, 542
Mendieta (mine), 1649
Mendocino, Cape, 27, 34, 534
Mendoza (Chile), 1909, 1032, 1939,

2047
, Alonso de, 1626
Antonio de, 305, 345, 364, 525,
544, 550, 553
Diego de, 268
Francisco de, 268
Gabriel de, 268
Garcia Hurtado de, 1272, 1270,
1440, 1479, 1695, 1701, 1955,
1957, 1964, 1974
Inés de, 268
Lope de, 1682
Maria de, 1689
Meneses, Diego de, 1308
, Pablo de, 1352, 1610, 1612, 1780f.
Menon, 1851
Mepenes, 1822; also Mepeos
Mequetepec, 831, 837; -pe, 479; Mix-
tepec? Istlavaca?
Mercachifles (peddlers), 745
Mercadillo, Antonio de, 1130, 1136
Mercado, Juan Nufez de, 504
Merced, Fray Diego Gutiérrez de la,
1402
Mercedarians, 107, 364, 387, 447, 477,
504, 522, 573, 609, 614, 644,

656, 663, 692, 713, 718, 728,
740, 876, 880, 892, 917, 1068,
1082, 1094, I103, II10, I120f.,
1127, Li44t.,” 1154, TLo6Oofks
1175, 1170; I192, TIO, T2510,
1291, 1300, 1322, 1324, 1326ff.,

1353, 1362, 1364, 1374f., 1385,
1390, 1402, 1415, 1430, 1510,
1600, 1627, 1637, 1630, 1666,
1690, 1698, 1705, 1765, 1767,
1772, 1781, 1797, 1828, 1832,
1835, 1838f. 1840, 1846f.,
184off., 1864, 1874ff., 1884,
1890f., 1921, 1927, 1932, 1945f.,
1967

Mercures (fruit), 162
Mercury, v. Quicksilver
Mérida (Colombia), 261, 269, 270f.,
288, 946, 948ff., 968ff., 1061,
1896, 2029, 2035; (Spain),
342, 687; (Yucatan), 342ff.,
350, 355, 357f., 607, 812, 1475
Merlo, Alonso, 1669
de la Fuente, 1930
Mestizos, 692, 1093, 1364, 1599, 1699,
1706, 1772, 1935
Meta, Rio, 152, 175, 190, 956
Metates, 378
Metellus, 28
Metropolitan (church), 634
Metztitlan (Mesti- V), 80, 464, 468f.,
480, 845
Mexcaltepec (Mexaltepeque V), 510
Mexi, 417, 419
Mexia, Juan Sanchez, 1672
de Leon, Pablo, 1672
, Pedro de Cordoba, 1440
Mexicans (Aztecs), 86ff., 396ff., 308ff.,
417, 490, 576, 603, 709
Mexico, v. Spain, New
City, 86ff., 305, 304, 396, 390f.
AI7fi., 433ff., 569, 810, 825,
831, 8371., 862, 866, 872, 1407,
1465
, Gaspar de, 565
Mezquitlan (Mes- V), 525
Miaguasuchil, Catalina, 414
, Maria, 410, 412ff.
Miahuatlan (-agu- V), 511, 851
Miarri, Rio de, 218, 223
Micheachucho, 1875
Miches (huts), 1438, 1457, 1485
Michivilca, 1327
Michoacan (Mech- V), 418, 420, 433,
488, 500, 814, 831, 853, 862,
866, 875
Mictla, v. Mitla
Micuaras, 1086
Mielgas (fruit), 162
Miges, 500, 517; also Mijes and Mixes
, Sierras de los, 508
Mijagua (tree), 285
Military costs, 545, 1302

INDEX

Military salaries, 1299, 2012

Militia Captain General, 1951

Milkstones, 1755

Milk tree, 283

Millar, 1305

Millarapué, 1054f., 1992, 2000

Million, 1865

Milpas (farms), 581, 601, 606

, Jueces de, 860

Mine values, 1467, 1470, 1658, 1675

Mingados (hired Indians), 1451, 1636,
1653

Mining camp judges, 482

Mining camps, 857, 1867, 1913

Mining law, 1649f., 1659

Mining processes, 1435, 1447ff., 1464ff.,
1470ff., 1650ff.

Ministriles, 1239, 1709

Minium, 1464

Mint (for coinage), 461, 1663;
(plant), 1725
Mira, 1092

Mirabel, Juan de Tejeda, 178o0f., 1784

Miracles, 372, 1623ff.

Miraflores (Colombia) 958; (Peru),
1166, II70, 1902

Mirare, Rio de, 202

Misantla (Micantle V), 371

Misque, 1551, 1641, 1680ff., 1600, 1713,
1747, 1893, I910, 2044, 2050;
Salinas; also Mixque and
Mizque

, San Sebastian de, 1680

Mita (forced labor), 1135, 1273, 1301f.,
1451, 1458, 1471, 1473, 1476,
1609, 1636, 1643, 1652f., 1660,
1663, 1934, 1908

Mitayos (Mita Indians), 946, 2046,

2058
Mitimas, 1327f., 1484, 1837, 1840f.,
1844, 1862; also Mitimaes

and Mitimayos
Mitla, 515, 851; Mictla, 511
Mito, 1338, 1362
, Rio de, 1363
Mixes, v. Miges
Mixteca (also Mis-, Miz-, V), 397,
407, 505, 509, 512, 514, S5I6ff.
Mixtecatlh, 307
Moabita (Tunja), 948, 953, 2046
Mocha, 1950, 1955, 1981
Moche, 1847; -chi, 1160
Mochumi (-homi V), 1161
Mocoa, 1077, 1146, 1806
Mococha, 352
Mocomoco (Peru), 1630, 1885
Mocon, Huamalies de, 1838; Monzon?
Mocupe, 1160; cf. Motupe
Mogollones, 896
Mogroyejo, St. Toribio Alfonso, 1236,

1280; -bejo, 1929
Mohammed, -edans, 64, 60, 781
Mohina, 1593, 1869

INDEX

Moho, 1616
Mohoyconima, 1883
Mojarras (fish, of family Gerridae),
629, 660, 744, 928, 1294, 1420,
1785, 1818
Mojoneria (boundary fee), 1441, 1707
Mojos, Los, 1561, 1688
Mojotoro, 1677; -torio, 1741
, Rio de, 1731ff.
Molina, Juan(?) de la, 2019
, Pedro Bravo de, 1055,
1061
Mollar (a large fragrant grape), 1387
Molle Cg molle), 1210f., 171 4ff.,
171
Molleguaca, 1862
Mollepata, 1872
Mollomarca (Moyocmarca V), 1532
Moloa, 310
Moluccas, 11, 760, 781, 78off.
Mombacho, 748; Monb-, 758
Mompds (-pox V), 924f., 1002, 1021,
1024, 1033, 1807
Money, v. Mint, Peso
Mongora, 960
Mongitia, Diego de, 126, 1053, 1215
Mongul, 54
Monimb6, 717, 748, 860
Monje (Monge V), Juan Ruiz, 156
Monkeys, 584, 730, 962, 1694
Monroy, Alonso de (also -rroy, V)
1988, 1991
, Juan Cortés de, 902
, Pedro Cortés de, 902
Monsalve, Luis de, 159
Mons6én, 796; also Monzon
Monstrance, 1666
Montafia = woods; cf. 352; v. Mon-
tuosa
Montafias, Santiago de las, 1139, 1900;
Montas, 1102
Montafieses (Nicaragua), 687;
(Peru), 1599
Montano, Arias, 56, 61
Monte Christi (Cristo V), 803; also
Montecristi
Montejo, Francisco de, 342, 345, 708
Montenegro, Lucia de, 1308
Monterrey, Count of, 453
Montes, Elvira de, 115
, Juan de, 115
Juan de Torres, 115
Montesclaros, Marqués de, 1156, II91,
1228, 1235, 1296, 1390, 1420,
1627, 1685, 1697, 1865
Montesdoca, Alonso de, 1132
, Juan de, 1132
Montesinos, Francisco de, 126, 1053,
I215f.
Monteverde (soldier), 1212
Montezuma, v. Mote-
Montijo, 904, 1805
Montoya, Diego de, 1200

54

1057;

833

Montuosa, 960; i.e., wooded; cf. 300,

1766, tierra Ilana montuosa

Moon, 182, 186, 1508, 1514, 1802

Moors, 64, 69, 781, 789

Moquegua, 1320, 1390, 1400ff., 1416,

1541, 1619, 1747, 1905, 2043;

also Moquehua

Moqui, 534

Mora, Alexandro de, 218

, Diego de, 1154

Moreta, 1787

Mori, 1839

Morillos, 770, 781

Moro, 1324, 1846; Morro?

Moromoro (llama), 36; (Peru),
1314, 1546, 1551, 1676, 1889

Morro eae 291, 295ff.; (Peru),

174
de los Diablos, 338
Hermoso, 3
Quemado (?), 1353
Morroco, 1316
Morrocoes (tortoises), 160
Mortara, Marqués de, 1266
Moruga, Rio de, 201
Mosca, 1327
Moscalaqui, 1851
Moscoso Alvarado, Luis de, 306, 321
Mosquitoes, 280, 1033, 1117, 1200, 1386,
1388, 1607
Mota, Alonso de la, 373
Motezuma (so always in V), 4o2ff.,
414, 416, 42tff., 709; also
Montezuma and Moctezuma;
(cousin), 4o04ff.
, Cristobal, 415
Diego Luis, 414f.
Felipe Marcelino, 415
Francisco Antonio, 415
Gallego, Juan, 409
Isabel, 400
Leonor, 409
Maria, 415
Pedro, 408ff., 412ff.
Pedro Tesifon, 414, 416
Motiel, 794; today, Moti
Motilones, Los, 968, 1183, 1191, 1199
, Rio de Los, 1113
Motines, 500
Motul, 350
Motupe, 1162, 1172, 1574, 1845; cf.
Mocupe
Moxcas, 942, 951, 973f.; v. Muxca;
also Muisca
Moyo, 1847; Moyoc?

Moyobamba, I16I, I190, 1197, 1852,
1902; Moya-, 1091; Muyu-,
1563

Moyos, 1801

Mozoa (near Pasto), 1083
Mozos = muchachos, for tax purposes
Mucha, IIIOo, 1571

834

Muchachos (boys up to 17), 1450,
1832
Mucozo (Fla. Indian chief), 306
Mudca, 1874
Muisca, v. Moxcas
Mulal6é: Mulahalo, 1108, 1146; Mula-
jalo, 1571
Mulatos, Los, 1121
Mulattoes, 1968
Mulberry, 512
Mulchén (Mol- V), 1959
Mules, 257, 277, 336, 435, 469, 472,
581, 757, 887, 895, 965, 967,
1047, III4, I190, 1288, 1400,
I4II, 1413, 1415, 1446, 1458,
1473, 1590, 1603, 1700, 1741,
1765, 1769, 1784
Muleteers, 1114, 1173, 1175,
1765; v. Teamsters
Mummies, 60, 1512, 1609, 1756
Munaycenga, 1404
Munaypata, 1869
Muneli, 1851
Munin, Rio de, 223
Munitions, 1200
Munoz, Alonso, 1672
, Baltasar, 263, 267
Gaspar, 1669, 1671
Miguel, 1068
de Ribera, Inés, 1262
Murcia (Spain), 1210
Musanca, 1485
Music, musical instruments, 688, 1185,
1261, 1263ff., 1700
Musketeers, 2014
Muso, 1121, 1806; also Muzo
Mutilation, 1158, 1829
Mutton, 1177, 1937
Muxca (language), 83
Muyna, 1537, 1552f.
Muytu (bird), 1791
Muzos, Los, 946; Musos, 948f., 968,
973ff., II2I, 2029, 2035

1474,

N

Na, Juan, 339
Naba, 913
Nabatlan, 394; Naua-, 86
Nabories, v. Navorios
Nachacan, 339
Nacimiento, El (Chile), 1952
agarote, 744
aguatex (DeSoto Exp.), 320
ails, 2019

, finger, 776
Naming ceremony, 1804
amoré, (tree), 985
Nana (Peru), 1305
Nanca (fruit), 784
Nance (tree), 682
Napo, Rio, 1086
Naranjo, Matéo de Torres, 1671

Z2ZZ

2,

INDEX

Naray Yanaguaras, 1873

Naré, Rio, 1047

Naringala (-iguala V), 1851
Narvaez, Panfilo de, 105, 305, 406, 427,

569
Nasca, I290, 1292, 1315, 1320, 1322,
133%, °1333,.) 13575. § 13508.

1370f., 1387, 1423, 1432, 1439,
1484, 1548, 1833, I901
, Mitimas de la, 1862
Rio de la, 1360
Nata, 901, 1895
Nature, Law of, 1490
Nauatlan, v. Nabatlan
Nauhiocin, 398, 400; also Nauhyotzin
Nauincopa, 1466
Naulingo, 641, 645, 654
Navajas, Rio de las, 5209
Navajeda (-geda V), Francisco de,
1672
Naval forces, 2015
Naval salaries, 2015
Navan (Naban V), 1327
Navarra y Mauleon, Matéo de, 442
Navidad, La (Mexico), 502, 523, 855
Navigation, Iff., 194, 362, 743, 758f.,
7607f€.
Navorios, 356, 644; also Nabories
Navy, 1297, 1922, 2015
Paymaster, 2021
Negrillo (stephanite), 1655
Negrillos (Indians), 520f.
Negritos, 770, 781
Negro, Rio, 1026
Negroes, 198, 476, 891, 896, 936, 964,
1030ff., 1349, 1828; v. Indians,
treatment of
Negron, Diego Marin, 1804
Neguas (Indians), 167, I090
Neiva (Neyba V), 1064, 1067, 1076
Nepena (Enep- V), 1847
Nepuya, 95; Nepuyos, 97, 194
Nests, 244
Nettles, 1725
Nevado, Rio, 27, 34
Volcano, 386
New Mexico, 10, 34, 545ff., 549, 565ff.,
856, 862
Newt, 1813
Nicacio, 1311, 1866; also Nicasio
Nicaragua, 87, 404, 420, 712ff., 817,
826, 832, 840f., 866, 882, 1330,
1404, 1406f.
de los Indios, 748f., 752
Nichi, Rio de, 1014, 1024ff., 1047
Nicoya, 752{., 832, 840
Nicuesa, Diego de, 8901
Niebla (Spain), 1215
Niepos, nO Nepos, 1179; Nepos,

155
Nieto, Arias, 156
Nieva, 558, 1102, 1335, 1465, 1900
Niger, River, 35, 58

INDEX

N ae
Nindiri,
none: 748

“ 327, 1366

Nirtia, 276; Nirva, 265; cf. Nirvas
Indians
Nixapa (Oaxaca), 5tof., 813, 850;

Nexapa, Nejapan
Niza, Marcos de, 550, 553
Noah, 14ff., 801, 1306
Nobility, Inca, 1364, 1537
Nobines (Indians), 167
Nochixtlan (-ist- V), 511, 851
Nogal (Juglans sp.), 1714
Nombre de Dids (Mexico), 810, 856;
(Panama), II5, 801, 1213
Nombre de Jests (Colombia), 1808;
(Philippine Islands), 821, 938
Nopal (prickly pear), 382
Notary, Church, 2052
Noualcati, 308
Nougat, 1043
Novena, 1402f.
Nuaba, Loma de, toro
Nuanas (also Iuanas,
21
Nucayca, San Cristobal de, 145o0f.
Nuestra Sefora, Cabo de, 1984
Valley, 1085
de Alta Gracia, 803
Nueva Almeria (Mexico), 366, 390
Nueva Valencia, v. Valencia
Nugget gold, 102, 1037, 1136, 1141
Nunez de Balboa, Vasco, 898, 904f.
Nunez Cabeza de Vaca, Alvaro, 305,
320, 546, 552, 560
Numez de Cabrera, Pedro, 1670
Nunez de Mercado, Juan, 504
Nunez Sedeno, Juan, 504
Nunez Vela, Blasco, 1082, 1004

V) (Indians),

Nunneries, 374, 387, 451f. 479, 489,
504, 522, 616, 774, 889, 947,
953, 959, 1066, 1082, 10094,
DIOZ. TELO;, 1127, L130; 1154)
1260ff., 1346, 1364, 1390, 1430,
1630, 1705, 1781, 10928, 1974
Nunoa, 1866

Nuns, Inca, 1120

Nupara (Colombia), 1013
Nuri (Colombia), 1012
Nurse, man, 1700

Nusta (Princess), 1589
Nutabé (language), 84
Nutmeg, 708

O

Oaxaca (Guaxaca V), 366, 368, 371,
300, 433, 504ff., 508, 51If.,
813, 831, 850, 862, 866, 878
Obos (fruit), 1604
Obraje (-age V), EI,
(Canta), 1324
Ocal (la>)i313

1180, 10940;

835

Ocampo, Fernando de, 2056

, Gonzalo de, 131, 1236

Méndez de, 462
y Sotomayor, Fernando Méndez
de, 542

Ocafia, 925, 939, 18908
Ocas (Oxalis tuberosa), 1446, 1644
Ochavario, 1985
Ochéa, Juan, 247
Océ, I0I2
Ocobamba, 1878

, San Francisco de,
Ocona, 1545

de Pacheco, 1862

del Rey, 1862

, Rio de, 1384
Ocongate, 1869
Ocotlan, 467
Ocros, 1305, 1307, 1327, 1843
Octopi, 1752
Officials, Royal, v. Royal
Oguaieup, Rio de, 223

1455

Oidores (Associate Justices), 824,
1696, 1703, 2022ff.; v. Audi-
encia

Oil, 779, 787, 1301, 1923

, value of, 1409
wells, 1122

Ojeda (Ox- V), Alonso de, 908

Ojomas, Los, 1819

Ojotas (sandals), 71, 686, 1390, I711

Olancho, San Jorge de, 605, 609, 816
Olid, Cristobal de, 430, 488
Olivares, Count of, 437

Olivera, Gov., 756

Olives, 483, 1155, I171, 1221f., 1204f.,
1331, 1381f, 13093f., 1409,
LATY,, TAIZ, 1422 vo Oil

Ollachea, 1867

Ollagua, v. Ullaca

Olleros, 1162

Ollo Guanca, 1872

Ollucos (-ocos V) (Ullucus tubero-
sus), 1446

Olmos, 1162, 1173, 1175, 1574, 1845
, Martin de, 1593
Omacha, 1875
Omagua, 142, 1198, 1204, 1207; -guas,
1086

Omaguaca, 1743, 1760, 1764, 1786; also
Humaguaca, Humahuaca

Omanata, 1885; Amarete?

Omas, 1325

Omasayos, Los, 1544, 1605, 1873, 2042;
Umasayus, 1486ff

Omasuyo, 1542, 1613, 1884;
2044; -uio, 1621, 1628;
1621ff.; Umasuyo, 1539

Omate, 1402, 1860

Omaytaxay (-ay? -dy? V),
Humay

Omens, 421f., 1552;

Omereque, 1683

-uyos,
-u10S,

ney Al (Chie

vy. Portents

836

Onda, v. Honda

Ongoy, 1878; also Ongoi

Onions, 1725

Ontiveros, Juan de, 5590

Opano, 1112; v. Upano, Pano

Ophir, 31, 56, 61

Opon, Sierras de, 942, 955

Opossum (chucha), 1018;
chaque), 1740;
585

Oracles, 1372

Oranges, 788, 1776, 1709

Orcosayo, 1747; Urcosayo?

Orcotuna (Ur- V), 1325;

1338

Ordenadores, 838, 946, 2058
de Cuentas, 462

Ordes, Council of, 1595

Ordoéfiez, Rodrigo, 1917

Oreb, Luis Jeronimo de, 2054

Orejeras (earhoops), 342, 941

Orejones, 1537, 1508
Quiguares, 1855

Orellana, Rio de, 1086, 1111,
, Francisco de, 1086, 1118
, Hernando de, 1595

Organist, 2052

Organbird, 1193

Organs, 688

Oribe, 913; Uribe?

Orincota (Oron- V), 1645f.

Orino, 940

(caraviu-
(tacuazin),

Horco-,

1113

Orinoco, 95f., 123, I51ff., 163, 165,
16off., 187ff., 208, 250, 274,
1084, 1086

Oripa, 1878

Oristan, 324

Oritos (parrots), 1738

Orizaba (Oris- V), 392, 849; Urisaba,
Sir

Ormaechi, Martin de, 1671

Ornaments, v. Indian

Oro de encaje, 1004

Oro, Rio del, 1085f.

, San Juan del, 1613
Oromiras, 9906

Oropesa (Huancavelica) (-eza V),
1466, - T470fF..) 1630, 1 27121.;
1746, 1903f.

(-eza V), Marquesa de, 1594, 1596
Oropones, 1864; Urupones?
Orotomos, 966; Urutomos?

Orozco, Beatriz de, 1266
, Licentiate, 1266
Maria de, 1266
Rodrigo de, 1266
Orphans, 452, 1242, 1246, 1248, 1797
Ortega, San Juan de (Spain), 105

, Father, 357
Ortés de Velasco, Pedro, 430, 654
Ortiz, Cristdbal, 1672
Ortiz Chiquillo, Francisco, 1029, 1031
Ortiz de Fuenmayor, Gabriel, 493

INDEX

Ortiz de Matienzo, Juan, 105

Ortiz de Sotomayor, Gabriel, 1662

Orttin Belasco, Capt., 960, 964, 1061

Orurillo, 1610

Oruro (usually Ho-, V), 1318f., 1343,
1412f., 1415, 1542, 1600, 1615,
1635ff., 1630, 1713, 1745f.,
1866, 1886, 1906, 2032, 20309,
2059; (Asillo; Ho- V), 1615

Osachile, 313

Oscollo (animal), 1740

Osores (Osso- V), Antonio, 1669

de Ulloa, Pedro, 1666, 1672
Osorio, Antonio, I09
, Roque de Chaves, 223

Osorno, 1928, 1973ff.

Osos, Rio de (Colombia), 1or2

Ostriches, 1485, 1632, 1635, 1644, 1647,
1687, 1680, 1764, 1770f., 1785,
1798, 1822, 1826, 1828, 1831,

1975
Otalo, Masca de, 1871
Otavalo, 1143, 1146; -balo, 70, 1100,
1104, 1571, 2045, 2059
Otomi, 89, 431, 490, 525
Otomitlh, 397
Otompan, 397; Otumba?
Oton (Arévalo), 772, 821, 861
Otorongos (Jaguars), 1741
Otters, 1019
Otucpa, 464, 845; Utucpa? Atocpan?
Otuculula, 467; Utu-? Tlacolula?
Otumba, 465, 468, 846; v. Otompan
Otuzco (-usco V), 1154, 1161, 1164,
1181
Ounce (animal), 160, 1741, 1703
Outlet, The, 1547, 1610f., 1634f., 1638
Ovalle, Juan de, 535
Ovando, Nicolas de, 103, 105, 115
Ovas (Obas V), Huanuco (Gu- V),
1838
Overseer, v. Veedor
Oviedo (Ubiedo V),
2053
, Francisco de, 1672
Ovifia, Francisco de Lillas y (?), 2021
Owls, 987, 1738
Oxen, 1639, 1765, 1827, 1037
Oxkutzcab (Otzcuzcabo V), 351
Oysters, 1750
Oyune, 1627: Ullune?
, Chapis de, 1882
Quichuas de, 1882
Ozama, Rio, 103
Ozumba, 388, 397

Bernardo de,

iP

Pabellones (bed canopies), 1106, 1769
Pacae (Inga feuillei), 1458, 1726
Pacajes (-ges V), 1303, 1413, 1540f.,

1626, 1628, 1632, 1881, 2044
Pacaran (-ara V), 1323

INDEX

Pacaraos (-rao V), 1324
Pacaritambo, 1875
Pacaxar, 220

Pacaxares, 214

Pacaxas Islands, 223
Pacaxas Indians, 223

Pacha, 1891

Pachacamac, 1558f.; Pachacama, 1332,
1832; Pacachacama, 1315,
1322

Pachacutec Yupangui Inca, 1505, 1555,
1559; -cutet, 1555 (chapter
heading), 1587; -cuti, 70;
-cute, 1557{.; Pachecute, 1535,
1554

Pachas Lascanga, 1838

Pachasllacta, 1326

Pacheco, Francisco (painter), 1244

, Capt. Francisco, 1121
Juan Gomez, 355

Pacheco de Cordoba y Bocanegra,

Bernardino, 440
, Francisco, 557

Pacheco Maldonado, Juan, 968, 972

Pachica (Arica), 1416

Pacho (Ganete), 1323

Pachuca, 464, 482, 810, 845, 862

Paclas (Pacllas V), 1162

Pacobas (bananas), 1790

Pacora, 1162, 1845

Pactt (fish), 1792

Pacuare, v. Suerre

Padilla, Diego de, 1668, 1671

, Hernando de Santa Cruz y, 1235
Rafaela Celis de, 1262
Padraqui (also -que, V), 1315
Padrones (census lists), 353

Paeses (Paeces V), 1076, 1078;
(Paezes V), San Vicente de
los, 1896

Pago, Santiago del, 1640; Paso, 2059

Paico (Payco V) (Chenopodium am-
brosioides), 1722

Paijan: Paigan, 1316; Payjan, 1846;
Paixan, 1160

Paint, 563, 1802

Painted cloaks, 165

Paintings, 423, 490, 515, 1087; v. In-
dian

Paira, 1169

Paita, 1100, 1169, 1316f., 1416; Paitta
T3160? Payta, 1135, 1162, 1175;
2031, 2038

Paitalasilla, 1851

Pajonal, 1755f.

Palaces, Inca, 1502ff.; v. Inca

Palco (bird), 1738

Palenques (Indians), 247f., 250, 253

Palla (Inca woman of blood royal),
1502

Pallares (legumes), 1007, 1155, 1217,
1223, I29If., 1331, 1380, 1409

Pallasca, v. Payasca

837

Pallascas (Indians), 1556

Pallatanga, 1116

Palma, La (Colombia), 950, 98off.,
1896

Palmar Real de Minas, 492, 814

Palmarejo, El, 819

Palmas, Salazar de las, 966, 1806

Palmicha (palm leaf thatch), 1000

Palms, 171, 700, 975, 1064, 1086, 1714f.

Palo de Uchire, 253

Palo santo, v. Guaiacum

Palomeque, Diego de Acuiia, 156, 275

Palometa (fish), 1692, 1792, 1818

Palomino, Diego, 1196

Palominos, Cayo de, 333

Palpa, 1322

Palpacalla, 1871

Palres, 1857

Palta (aguacate), 228, 986, 1458, 1566,
1726

Paltas, Los, 1099, I102, 1131, 1201,
1566

Pampachulla, 1869

Pampacolca (Panp- V), 1861

Pampaconga, 1872

Pampahuasi (Pampa Huaci V), 1577

Pampallasta, 1871

Pampanga, 772, 861

Pampanico, 1862

Pampas (prairies), 1328, 1609, 1648,
1689, 1771, 1785, 1821, 1826

Indians, 1830
, Santa Ana de, 1368

Pampatare (Mam- V), 125

Pamplona (Colombia), 280f., 948, 950,
953, 958ff., 973, 1040, 1061,
1896, 2046

Panacaes, 207

Panama, I15, 140, 737, 886ff., 1147,
1330, 1374, 1680, 1895, 2022,
2028, 2034, 2044, 2053, 2057

Panapios, 201

Panataguas, 1364

Panay, 772, 821, 861

Panches, 942, 948, 951, 2046

Pafiecillos (bricks), 1711

Panga, Rio, 1668

Pangasinan (-nay V), 772, 861

Paniagua (soldier), 1061

Panniers, 1417

Pano, Rio, 1113 —=Opano :

Pansaleo, 1108, 1146, 1571

Panta (headdress), 1615

Pantipata, 1872

Panuco, gor 321, 390, 433, 464, 470f.,
45

Paomarca, 1857

Paos (fruit), 786

Papago, Rio (Ariz.), 166

Papal indulgences, 1270

Papallacta: Papallata, 1083; La Pa-
llata, 1067

838

Papaloticpaque, 511; -otipa-, 851; Pa-
paloticpac

Papamarca, 1563

Papantla (Papautla V), 473

Papas, 1563; v. Potatos

Papaw, 241, 983, 1188

Paper, 1452, 2018

Papres, 1869

Para (Peru), 1613

Para Channel, Great, 213ff., 217, 223

Parabenes (Indians), 174

Paraca, 1347

Paraguachi, 124, 805

Paraguay, 64, 1665, 16093f., 1746f.,
1765, 1786, 1788ff., 2032, 2039,
2056

, Rio del, 1791, 1794
Paramo, 1084, IIII, 1338; v. Papal-

Parana, Rio de, 1829
Paranas, 1820
Pararin, 1328
Parchment, 2018
Parcialidad (clan), 1456f., 1450, 1753
Parco (-cos V), 1300, 1474f., 1553
Pardo, El (Spain), 1440
Andrés Garcia, 144
Villar de Don, 1110, 1145
Paredes, Diego Garcia de, 126, 262,
279, I05I, 1o55ff.
, Juan de, 1671
Pargo (fish), 1095
Paria (Bolivia), 1542, 1546, 1632ff.,
1743f., 1746, 1886, 2043;
(Venezuela), 103f.
, Lake of, 1618, 1634, 1636
Pariamarca, 1324
Pariarca (-arga V), 1326, 1838
Parias (Indians), 195, 197, 245
Pariente, Benito Macier, 217, 22of.
Parija, 1856
Parime, Lake, 166; also Parima
Parimes (Indians), 167
Parina (-ifia V), 1851
Parinacocha, 1380, 1877
Parinacochas, Los, 1154, 1380, 1382,
1439, 1454, 1543, 1604f., 1877,
2042; Pariguanacochas, 1486
Parish (Charcas)= reducién; 1773
Parita, 901
Parlor, 1522
Parnahyba (Parnaiba V), 221; also
Paranahyba
Paro (Panama), 753
Parosa, Rio, 1111
Parrilla, 1901
Parrots, 504, 1791
Parsley, 983, 1725
Partridges, 161, 1021, 1644, 1687, 1680,
1738, 1764, 1771, 1785, 1828,
1831, 1920
Pasado (-sao V), I12I, 1577

INDEX

Pasaje, Rio del, 1766

Pascamayu, 1574

Pasco y Pisco, 1366

Pasig (Passi V), Rio, 773, 775

Pasina, Moyos de, 1891

Paso, Santiago del, 2059; cf. Pago

Pasos de los Enemigos, 2016

Paspaya, 1646, 1713, 1744, 1746, 1761,
1906, 2043

Passionflower, 1726; v. Granadilla

Pasto, San Juan de, 76, ro8off., 1100,
1102f., 1143, 1146, 1900, 2045

Pastos, Los, 1571

Pasuguates, 559; Paguate?

Patache (boat), 142, 1299

Patacones = 8-real pesos, dollars ; 1300

Patagones, 1122, 1977

Patangora (Indians), 1046

Patarabuies, 560

Patas (sweets), 723

Pataste (tree), 679

Patate, TLIO) 20505, Pet., Tia aise
today is name of lower course
of Rio Cutuchi

Paternina, Juan de, ITI

Patis (fish), 1792

Pativilca, 1324

Patos, Isla de los, 193

Patrimony, Royal, 522, 528, 530, 1675,
1828, 1801, 1952; v. Royal
Officials

Patzcuaro, 814; Pascuaro, 488f.

Paucarapa, 1870

Paucarbamba, 1325

Paucarcolla, 1304, I31I, 1604, 1612,
1628, 1747, 1883, 2044; Umayo

, San Francisco de, 1616, 1883

Paucarmarca, 1533

Paucarpata, 1864

Paucartambo, 1327, 1366, 1480, 1550,
1554, 1605f., 1870, 2031, 2038

, Rio de, 1537

Pauji (also paugi, pauxi, V) (Pauxi
sp., curassows), I61, 193, 706,
1020, 1687, 1689; also pauxi
(tree), 162, 240

Paullu Tupac Inca, 1492, 1580, 150rIff.,

1601, IQ14
Paute, 1127
Pava (guan, Penelope sp.), 1604.
Paya, 975

Payagua, 1806

Payasca. (Pallasea, V)),. Waranr78 1328;
1370, 2059

Payjan, 1846; -xan, 1160

Paylataro, 1955, 1992, 2000

Paymasters, 2036ff.; v. Contador

Payraca, 1874

Payzunoes, 1812

Paz, Tal 130rk., .131St.. 24s) 428:
1604, 1626ff., 1746f., 188rf.,

INDEX

1894, 2032, 2039, 2044, 2055;
v. Chuquiabo

Peaches, 1598, 1782

Peanuts, 1088, 1093, 1096, I155, 1203,
1221, 1223) T20Lh, (13931, 71300

Pearlssei22t 125, 127s, 040, 303i.
316, 322, 531ff., 778, 782, 897,
932, 936, 997, I12I, 1750

Peas, 1936

Pebete (incense-rod), 422

Peccaries, ip, 586, 792, 1081, 1455,
I is

Pedernales, Rio, 192

Pedraza, 972, 1806

Pedregoso, 530, 541

Pedruja, Juan de Espinosa, 703f.

Pejerrey (fish), 480, 636, 1294, 1382,
1420, 1458, 1460

Pelechuco, 1630

Pelentaro (Indian chief), 1994

Pelicans, 988, 1420

Pelileo, 1110, 1145

Pellansimiqui, 1577

Pena, Gutierre Lopez de la, 268, 1055,

1057
Penachi, 1162, 1845
Penalosa, Maria de, 734
Penas de Camara, 862
Penasy Was (Peru), 1313
Penco, 1992
Penitents, 1285 ff.
Pennyroyal, 1725
Penol Blanco, 855
Penonomé (Pero- V), go1
Pens, 2018
Peos (Indians), 173
ay E10; 173
Pepper, 331, 577, 589, 799, 1638, 1665,
1726; v. Aji, Uchu
Peralta, Pedro de, 1409
, Simon de, 1671
Peranzules, Capt., 1605
Peraza de Polanco, Juan, 2021
Pere, Yungas de, 1885
Perea, Fray Pedro de, 1390, 2053
, Licentiate, 1400
Pérez, Domingo, 1400
Pérez de Alecio, Matéo, 1244
Pérez de Arraudi, Martin, 1208
Pérez de Bocanegra y Cordoba, Fer-
nan, 446, 557
Pérez Garabino, Juan, 1029, 1031
Pérez de Guevara, Juan, 1190
Pérez Guillén, Francisco, 1669
Pérez de Sorita, Juan, 1778, 1780
Pérez de Uracandi, Juan, 2020
Perfume, 797, 1776
Perico (island), 897
, Rio de, 1766
ligero (sloth), 1019
ce 392, 462, 482, 721, 747,

5
Persians, 7, 781, 789

839

Peru, 61, 69, 75f., 257, 345, 436, 511,
6f., 889, 1094, I100, I12I,

1174f., 1374, 1787£., 1982, 2022,
2051

Pescado, Rio del, 1679

Peso: weight, and then weight of one
oz. Troy; hence, the silver
coin weighing one oz., and
worth 8 reales fuertes (our
“bits”) or 20 reales de vel-
lon; these are the “pieces of
eight” or silver dollars, 461;
also called pesos corrientes,
1708, (but in 1307, 9 reals),
and in Peru, patacones
(q. v.). But there were other
pesos; in 1456 we have both
8-real and g-real pesos. The
gold peso (peso de oro) is ap-
parently the assay peso (peso
ensayado) of 124 reals (cf.
1302, 1459) and equal also
to the peso de minas, peso
de oro de minas, 411, 1613,
2036, 2046—the mine peso; in
842, a salary is given at the
same figure in assay and mine
pesos; in 411 the gold peso de
minas equals 450 maravedis;
at 34 maravedis to the real,
that would come to 13} reals,
and would explain the profit
made by the traders, 1133. In
1260 the assay peso is defined
as a few maravedis more than
a Castilian gold crown, of
which there were 68 to a half
lb. (230 grams) of gold—the
gold mark. But the real
values can by estimated only
in terms of Prices, q.v.

Pesquerias, Las (Cauca), 1013

Pestilence, 144

Petapa, 627; v. Le Sage’s “Bachelier
de Salamanque”

Petatlan, 550

» Rio de, 553

Petén, 341

Peteylili, 1068

Peto (Petu V), 356

Pheasants, 1687, 1680, 1828

Philip II, 142, 167, 411, 458, 754, 1154,
1275, 1440

Philip III, 557

Philip IV, 416

Philippines, 11, 436, 476, 727, 760, 821,
828, 834, 842, 861f., 867, 885,
1658

Philosophy, 1540, 1551

Pias (Peru), 1563

Pica, 1410, 1416, 1422, 1634, 1748, 1760,
1863

840 INDEX

Picado, Antonio, 1695
, Collaguas de, 1859, 1864
Picaza (-asa V) (bird), 1738
Picchu (Pichu V), 1496
Pichihua (-igua V), 1868
Pichincha (-che V), 760; Pechinche,
1092, 1097, 1406
Pichunsi, 1577
Pickles, 786, 1694
Pico, 1940
Picoasay CPeicuasa, V)), wi2n,on570
Picor, 1309; Pichos?
Picos largos (birds), 1021
Picoy, 1474, 1553, 1872
Picuda (fish), 1024
Pié de altar (offertory), 1458, 1461
Pié de Gallo, 1636
Piedra Cansada, 1528, 1534
Piedras moradas, 1755
Pigeon, passenger, 333
Pijaos (Pix- V), 1064, 1076
Pilaya, 1646, 1700, 1744, 1746, 1761,
1906, 2043; also Camblaya
Pilcomayo, Rio de: -mayu, 1730f.,
1733, 1818; -Maqui, 1561
Pile dwellings, 170
Piles, remedy for, 1719
Piles (fruit), 787
Pilileo, 1571
Pillaro, 2059
Pillcupata, 1606; -cap-, 1550
Pillpinto (Pilp- V), 1875
Pilmaiquén (-may- V), 1955, 19092,
2000
Pilot, Licensed, 2015
Pimocha, I117, 1570
Pimpinel, 1725
Pifia = Pineapple, q.v.; cone of sil-
ver, 1656, 1675
Pinales, 1975, Pinares, 626; pine woods
Pinaré (-arré V), Rio, 223
Pincos, 1365, 1374f., 1556
, Allauca, 1839
Ichu, 1839
Pineapples, 100, 230, 1726, 1799
Pinedo, Juan de, 1194
Pines, 1958, 1966, 1975; v. Pinales
, Isle of, 4
Pingopingo (Pincopinco V) (Ephedra
andina), 1723
Pinks, 1493, 1725, 1782
Pinones (pine nuts), 646, 1958, 10966,
1975
Pinos, Sierra de, 526, 814
Pinotubas (Indians), 215
Pifuelas (fruit), 162
Pinzon, Rio Vicente, 208f.
Pipil, 92
Piquiras (shrimps), 1792
Pira, 1328
Piragua (dugout), 20, 171, 199
Pirapés (Indians), 214

Pirates, 100ff.) 115,121, T25i., 1358.
130f., 141f., 156, 312, 323, 320,
669, 609; v. Corsairs
Piray, Rio, 1691
Pirca, 1875
Pirura, 1036
Pisco, 1290, 1292, 1308, 1315, 1322,
1333, 1345ff., 1351, 1357, 1387,
1443f., 1446, 1557, 1901
y Condor, 1833
, Rio de, 1352
Piscobamba, 1328, 1365, 1371, 1376,
1556, 1839
Piso, Quembo y, 1144
Pispaya, 1709
Pisuerga, Rio de, 1680, I910, 2044
Pita, 162, 609; v. Henequen
Pitahaya (Cereus sp.), 162, 234; V
writes pitajaya, also current
today
Pitantora, 1676
Piteh,, 511; (6655. 7053470741722 u0lae2"
1292, 1358, 1387, 2019
Piti, 1485; Pitic? Puti?
Yanaguaras, 1873
Pitumarca (Pito- V), 1870
Piura, San Miguel de, 61, 1100, 1151,
TI62) 410174.) (1301.4) T3T6ls
1851f., 1902, 2038, 2050, 2059
Pizarro, Fernando 889, 1537; Her-
nando, 1595
, Francisco, 889, 1092, 1154, 1174,
1182, 1190, 1224, 1262, 1338,
1361f., 1374, 1380, 1424ff.,
1483, 1489, 1506, 1535, 1585ff.,
1592, 1598, 1649, 1695f., 1986,
1989, 2009
Gonzalo, 735, 1082, 1086, 10094,
1130, 1196, 1425, 1481, 1480,
1593, 1626, 1682
Juan, 1595
Sancho, 1205
Pizma (animal), 992
Plantains, 100, 225
Plata, La (Chuquisaca, Sucre), 1314,
1318f., 1647, 1662, 1677, 1695,
1746, 1891, 1906, 2026
, Rio de La (River Plate), 57,
223, 305, 1147, 1647, 1680,
1682, T7317, 21775, 1778, “1786;
1791, 1800, 1818, 1820ff.,
1828f., 1958, 2039
San Sebastian de La, 1039, 1896
Platanos, 225, 1799; v. Bananas, Plan-
tains
Plateros, Los, 536, 820
Plato, 30
Plays, sacred, 1240
Pleiades, 1515
Pliny, 20, 1464, 14608.
Ploughs, 1446
Ploughshares, 2018
Pluma, Officios de, 823ff., 2022, 2035

INDEX

Plumes (egret), 1819; (ostrich), 1822

Pocoata (Poco Atta V), 1314; cf.
Copoata

Pocona, 1551, 1641, 1681f., 1893

Pocorucha, 1832; Pucu-, 1307; Paro-
cocha?

Pocossi, 1860

Pocra (Guamanga), 1553

Poison, 123, 212, 246, 254, 276, 284,

505ff., 678, 684, 975, 1088,
B20) T468i), (1473. ‘TSA,
1720ff., 1791

Pojo (Poxo V), 1686

Polanco, Juan Peraza de, 2021

Poles, 9

Poma="Puma; vy. Lions 1741

Poma-, v. Puma-

Pomacanchi (-che V), 1860

Pomacocha, 1162

Pomacorco, 1871

Pomaire (-ayre V), 1940

Pomata, 1312, 1540, 1619

Pomegranates, 1332

Pompones (Indians), 167

Ponce de Leon, Juan, 115f., 141, 305

Poncies (bitter oranges), 1726

Pontoon, 1951; cf. 1208

Poor, Attorneys for the, 1697

Popayan, 946, 950, 1008, 1062, 1065ff.,
1100, 1899, 2020f., 2037, 2045,
2055

Poppies, 1725

Porcel, Juan, 1196

Porci (Colombia) 1012

(Porce V), Rio, 1025f.

Porco, 1343, 1415, 1546, 1645f., 1660,
1701, 1745f., 1890, 1906, 2043

Porcupines, 992

Porgies, 337

Pork, 911

Porotos (legume), 1201, 1936, 1046,
1957, 1960

Porras Sugredo, Diego de, 1253

Porsi (Venezuela), 806

Port of Spain, 143, 148

Portcullis, 1531

Portents, 738, 1490; v. Omens

Portero de Cadena, 862; =Guardamea,
officer on guard against com-
mission of nuisance (Espasa)

Porteros, 1697

Portobelo, v. Puerto Bello

Portocarrero, Pedro, 570

Portuguese, 108, 328, 1442, 1465, I8II

India, Religious Company of, 790

Posiguay, 934

Posoltega, 721, 728, 731

Potatoes, 944, III0, I115, 1379, 1446,
1455, 1459, 1563, 1600, 1615,
1628

, sweet, 982
Potobamba, 1890

841

Potopoturo (island near Granada),

19
Potosi (Bolivia), 130rf., 1318f., 1343,
1412, 1415, 1417, 1467, 1473,
1609, 1613, 1636, 1639, 1647ff.,
LOOTiis, IO96t. I7OT, ° 17 LT,
1713, 1745f., 1906, 2032, 2039,
2048, 2059; Pottossi 1313
, Guayna, 1648, 1652f., 1661
San Luis de (Mexico), v. San
Luis
Potters, 1706
Pottery, 645, 649, 1087, 1358, 1387f.
Poultry, 625, 927, 1459
Poveda, Juan de, 975
Powder, 2020; v. Gunpowder
Pox, French, 116, 326; v. Syphilis
Pracamurus, 1563
Prayer for rain, 318, 1333, 1654, 1693
Prebendaries, 868ff., 1238, 1288, 2052
Precentor, 860, 2052ff.
Pregoneria, 1707
Pregonero, 1284, 1289
Pre-Inca remains, 1475, 1621
Prelate (Bishop or Abbot), 323, 1236,
1280, 1288, 1364f.
Premonstratensian, 2053
Presentado = Candidate for Master’s
Degree, 42
Preserves, 304, 490, 520, 777, 783, 785,
944, 955, 967, 1043, 1116, 1128,
1165, I160f., 1363, 1603, 1627,
1629, 1684, 1690, 1716, 1776
Presto, 1678
Prices, 625, 636, 641f., 722f., 726, 8o4f.,
LOO5f;,/ F128, PT71, LI7SN TG 7
IIQI, 1204, 1330, 1340, 1351,
1358, 1379, 1387, 13090, 1409,
I41I, 1418, 1446, 1451f., 1455,
1450, 1638, 1640, 1653, 1665,
1824, 1925f., 1936f., 2017ff.
, gold, 1133
Prime, 1253, 1275
Principe, Villa and Puerto del, 200,
292, 808
Printing, 462, 487
Prisons, 1255, 1260f., 1289
, Confraternity of the, 126of.
Procedieron, 2021
Processions, 1240, 1288f.
Procurador, 920, 1270, 1706
de la Ciudad, 1441
General, 157, 1232
de Pobres, 1697
Property valuation, 1865, 1926
Protectors of the Indians, 1147, 1440f.,
1942, 2048, 2058f.
Protestantism, 204, 275; v. Heretics
Province: cf. 187, 1425
Provisor, 923
Provost General, 2012
Ptolemy Philadelphus, 20
Pucamarca, 1503

842

Pucara, I3II, 1474, 1525, 1530, 1610ff.,
1866

Pucarani, 1884

Pucurucha, 1307; cf. Poco-

Puebla, 372ff., 391, 760, 811, 822, 848,
862, 1122

, Conde de la, 1980

Pueblo Nuevo (=La Paz), 1626;
(Ranama))," ‘1805 /i@Perw);
1316; P.N. de Ildefonso

Puelches, Los, 1959

Puelles, Pedro de, 1363

Puerto Bello (-bello, -belo and -velo,
V), 3f., 669, 700, 714, 887f.,
8orff., 1805; also Portobelo

Puerto Caballos, 669; Puerto Cortés

Puerto Principe, 290, 292, 808;
Camagtiey

Puerto Rico, 2, 106, 114ff., 155, 197,
an 275, 288, 830, 835, 865,

9

Puerto Santo (Paria), 106

Puerto Viejo (Ecuador), 1102, 1121,
1145, 1570, 1572, I900, 2050,
2059; Portoviejo; (Venez-
uela), 195

Pulleys, 1527

Pulperias (grocery stores), 609, 1609

Pulque, 393, 486

Puma-, v. Poma-

Pumachapi (Pomachape V), 1869

Pumachupa: -pam, 1495; -pan, 1408,
1501, 1503

Pumacurcu, 1493; cf. Pomacorco

Pumahuanca (Poma Guanca V), 1872

Pumallacta, 1569

Pumamarca (Po- V), 1879

Pumatambo, 1486; Pomatambos, 1454,
1543, 1877

Pumice, 1109, 1395, 1403, 1407, 1756

Pumpkins, 1344, 1355

Puna (high upland), 1180, 1300, 1338,
1348, 1437f., 1444, 1471, 1483,
1485, 1487, I5II

Puna (island), 1118f., 1145, 1575

Puna (Porco), 1645, 1800; also Pu-
nata and Talavera

Puncu, Rio, 1113

Puno, 1311, 1616, 1883

Pufio en Rostro, Conde de, 1595; also

Punonrostro
Punta, La (Havana), 303; (Piura),
1851
ee (Philippine Islands),
21

de Venados (Chile), 1931

Puqui (Colombia), 1012

Puquin, 1860

Puquina (language), 1710; -nas (In-
dians), 1539

Puquio — jagtiey, well; 1350f., 1304,
I41I, 1920; (Nasca), 1430,
1872

INDEX

Puquises (Yucay). 1871; cf. Poquis
(Cajamarca)

Puquiura (-ivra V), 1872

Purba (fruit of purbo tree), 239

Purێn, 1956, 1058, 1995, 1999, 2001,
2010

Purgatives, 1722, 1808; v. Laxatives

Puri, 1012

Purificacion, La, 523

Puruaes, 70, III0, III6, 1145, 1560,
1571, 2059; also Puruayes

Purumayu, Rio de, ro84f., 1088; ex
Putu-, 1087; cf. Poromayo
(Caravaya)

Purveyor General, 2012, 2016

Pusi (Peru), 1615

Putica, 1435

Putina, 1413

Putre (Arequipa), 1416

Puzi (Ecuador), 1085

Pyramids, 1474, 1514

Pyre, 1289

Pyrites, 976

, blue, 334
white, 976

Q

q., as in 1454 =—cuartillo

Quadroons, 1706

Quail, 1687, 1694, 1785, 1828, 1831

Quarries, 1526

Quau-, v. Cau-, Cuau-

Quauhquechulan, 397; Quauhquecho-
llan (Prescott)

Quauhtexpetatli, 308

Quauhtlix, 399

Quauhtonal, 308

Quautimoc, 407, 400, 427, 431; Guati-
mozin

Quebrada, La (Bolivia), 1313

Quebrada Rica (Chiapas), 5094

Quebrantahuesos (nuisances), 726, 745

Quebrantatinaja (grape), 662

Quechua, v. Quichua

Quehuar (Quéguar V), 1537

Quelenes, 576, 583, 593f., 599; Zotziles,
Zincantecas

Quemalolto (Chachapoyas),
Quemal Alto?

Quembo y Piso, 1144; Puembo?

Quenequenes (Colombia), 996

Quepaypa (Cuzco), 1583

Querco, 1190

, San Francisco de, 1455

Querétaro (-tano V), 464, 479, 483,

492, 810, 845

(Ecuador), 1145,

(wooden cup), I7II

Queros, Los, 1327, I571

Querquia (Colombia), 1011

Quesada, Gonzalo Ximénez de, 938,
942, 953, 955

1840;

Quero 1571;

INDEX

Quesma, 1560

Quetacoto (Cajamarca), 1161

Quetzalcoatl, -cohuatl (Quezalcoatlh
ee 397, 424; also Quezal-
co

Quetzaltepec (Quesa- V), 508

Queule, Rio de, 1982

Quevedo, Fray Juan de, 62

Quev6 (Queud V), 1692

Queza, 399

Buceslauidue (Gasal= VaRn7175. 732;
0

Quezaltenango (Casal- V), 633, 859

Quiaca, La, 1760, 1764

Quiaguares, v. Quisguares

Qialla (sic, V; Vilcas), 1436

Quiapo, 1955, 1992, 2000

Quibi, San Juan de, 1324

Quichemucelo (Chiapas), 493; Chico-
muselo?

Quichua, 76ff., 1455, 1459, 1479, 1483,
I50I, 1516, 1522f., 1710; also
Quechua, as in 1544 once in V

Quichuas (Aymaraes), 1874; (Vil-
cas), 1857

de Oyune (?), 1882
Quicksilver (mercury), 159, 494, 838,

1097, 1127, 1120, 1135, 1332,
1343, 1415, 1447ff., 1452, 1464,
1468ff., 1636, 1639, 1050, 2038

Quictepeque (Oaxaca), 511, 851;
Quiotepec ?

Quigate (DeSoto Exp.), 319

Quigualtagui (DeSoto Exp.), 306;
-taugui, 320

Quiguares, 1869; cf. Quisguares

, Orejones, 1855

Quijos, v. Quixos

Quilacoya, 2001

Quilacura, 1901 ;

Quilambe, 1784

Quilca, 1862; Que-, 1315

Quilagua ?

Quilibinas (Indians), 1086

Quillacas, 1886

Quillacu (Indians), 1567

Quillapata, 1496

Quillota, 1925, 19391., 2047
Rio de, 1914

Quimistaca, 1390; Quini-, 1860

Quimixtlan, 392; -mis-, 840

Quinaquina (cinchona), 1714ff.

Quinaquitara (Omasuyo), 1884

Quinces, 1332, 1363

Quinche (-chi V), 1144

Quinga, v. Quinua

Quinine (earliest known reference to
Indian use), 1717

Quinistacas: -ca, 1860;

1390
Quinmibil, 1788
Quinoa, v. Quinua

Quifiones, Francisco de, 1944
Quinti (bird), 1738

Quimistaca,

843

Quintillacta, 1869

Quinto (20 percent tax for the
Crown), 69, 1675

Quinua (Chenopodium quinoa), 1115,

1379, 1488, 1644, 1727; also

Quinoa; (tree), 1444

(Chinchaycocha), 1366;

(Guamanga), 1430, 1856

Quinualla, 1482, 1549

Quipos (records), 1536, 1622

Quiquijana (-ixa- V), 1311,
1612

Quiquis, 1324; cf. eae

ore (-agu- Ve)ne

1455

Quires (N. Mex.), 562, 567

Quirimbaraes (Indians), 1001

Quiriquires, 261, 273

Quiroga, Vasco de, 488

Quirondas (Indians), 1822

Quirés, Gutierre Bernardo de, 368, 873

Quirpinchaca (-ncacha V), 1728

Quirquincho (armadillo) ; -chu, 1771,
1785; quiriquincho, 1694

Quisguares (Quiag- V), 1869; v. Qui-
guares

Quispicanche, I31I, 1605, 1608, 1860,
2042; also -chi

Quispillan, Bocavaya, 1864

Quisqueya (Indian name of Hispani-
ola), 98

Quisquis, 1581; cf. Quiquis

Quistancho, 1162

Quistanchochoscono, 1849

Quito, San Francisco de, 70, 1092,
II00, I1I0, 1114, 1143f., 1301,
1316f., 1330, 1370, 1406f.,
1428, 1525, 1570ff., 1900, 2021,
2024, 2030, 2037, 2045, 2053,
2057, 2059

Quito (Quitu V), King,

Quivalsas, 1822

Quivechicosies, 1693

Quivira, 27, 34, 39, 56, 546, "556

Quixos, Los, 1o85f., 1095, 1100, 1106,
1143, 1145, 1571, 2030, 2037;
also Quijos

Quiyzinquéc, 525

Qzapararap, Point, 213, 22

, La

1608,

Santiago de,

1571, 1579

R

Rabbits, 125, 1828

Rabihorcados (Rabrah- V) (frigate
birds), 1020

Racacha, v. Arracacha

Racioneros (Prebendaries),
1238, 2052ff.

Raciones Medias (do.,
2052¢f.

Rada, Juan de, 1918; also de la Rada,
Herrada

Radishes, 1725

868ff.,

half time),

844 INDEX
Rafts, 1000, 1008, 1188, 1218, 1384, Registrar, 1702
1420, 1435, 1541, I56I, 1752, of Wills, 1702
1775, 1791 Registro (registry book), 1697, 2021

Rain, 318, 1093, 1120, 1137, 1153, 1444,
‘1756; v. Prayer
Rainbow, 1517
Rainy season, 1728, 1732
Raisins, 37, 1386, 1957
Raleigh, Walter: Guatarral 6 Guan-
tero Real, 135; Guatarral,
136f., 141, 156f., 274
Ramada, La, 935, 1808
Ramirez, Alexandrino, 1034
Andaluz, Pedro, 1250
de Avalos, Gil, 1127
de Cepeda, Diego, 2054
de Fuenleal, Sebastian, 105, 372
Ramon, Alonso Garcia, 2020
Ramos, Los, 526f. 814; also Santa
Maria de los
Ramrods, 1128
Rancherias, 127ff.
Rangali (Chile), 1959, 1962
Rangalican, 1959, 10962
Rangel, Juan, 268
Rangel de Cuellar, Alonso, 966
Rascadera (vegetable), 1014
Rats, 1021
Raya, Antonio de, 1602
Raymi Pampa, 1563
Real, silver coin, our “bit”, 8 to a
peso (q. v.); cf. 1305; called
real de a ocho, 1666; divided
into 4 cuartillos, 1315; 65 to
a silver mark, 1675; tomin
apparently = 4 of assay peso;
ci. 1863, 1864
Realejo, 665, 705, 715, 716ff., 817, 860,
1358
Reappraisement, 2048
Rebellions, 1215, 1928, 1935
Rebels, 1701
Recalde, Father, 358
Receiver (Receptor),
1702
General of Fines (Receptor Gen-
eral de Condenaciones), 1697,
1702
Recollect Friars, 442, 774, 880, 917,
947, 954, 1094, 1246, 1250f.,
1600, 1678, 1705
Recorder (Escribano de Registros),

1255f., 1697,

1441
Recuay (Requay V), 1218, 1328, 1376,
1379, 1837
Red Sea, 30
Redemption of captives, 109, 494, 2020
Reduciones (parishes), 1765, 1769,
| 1773) 17775:
Reducir, v. Convert
Reformados (in reserve), 2014
Regidores, v. Aldermen

Regimiento: post of Alderman; 1706

Registry, 1607

Relators, 825, 1697, 2025, 2027

Relics, 457, 511, 655, 1401, 1622ff.

Religions, v. Indian

Religious Orders’
clesiastical

Remedios, Los (Colombia), 1002, 1028,
1046ff., 1896; (Panama), 904,
1805

Remon, Capt. Juan, 1302f.; V writes
also Ramon and Rremon

Rengifo (-nji- V), Juan Martinez,
1253

Rengo, 2000, 2002

Repartimientos: under the encomienda
system (q.v.) the Indians
were allotted (repartidos) to
the encomenderos, and such
an allotment constituted a
repartimiento; the official in
charge of assignments was
the Repartidor. Cf. 265, 411,
482, 525, 535, 560f., 654, 862,
885, 1135, 1147, 1302ff., 1305,
1390, 1302, 1425, 1440, 1451,
1454, 1459, 1476, 1652f., 1677,
1697, 1832ff., 1935, 1942, 1947,
1QoIff., 2050; v. Encomienda

Reque, 1160, 1172, 1574, 1846

Requisitions, 1944, 2019

Rescate (ransom, sales tax), 100, 494,
2020

Reservoirs, 1654, 1774

Residencia (investigation of an of-
ficial’s acts and accounts at
the end of his term, especially
under charges), 2048

Residues, 2050

Retamoso (and -osso, V), Collaguas

Revenues, v. Ec-

de, 1864
Retasas (reassessment; surtax), 2048
Revenues, 1300f.; v. Ecclesiastical,
Educational, Income

Los (Chile), 1985; (Colom-
bia), 937, 1808; (Huanuco),
1366; -(Peru)jave Lima
. Rio de, 1764
Reyes de Armas (Kings-at-Arms),
1288
Rhinoceros, v. Habada
Rhodes, Colossus of, 516
Ribera, Alonso de, 1767, 2011,
, Antonio de, 1262
Fray Francisco, 876
Fray Gabriel de, 443, 613
Inés Mufioz de, 1262
Juan de, 975
Juan Dabalos de, 1306
Leonor de, 1266
Salvador de, 1245

Reyes,

2010

INDEX

Rice, 330, 645, 777ff., 893, 982, 1007,

1014, 1690
Rigging, 1925, 1934, 2019
Rimac, 1559

Rimacpampa, 1495, 1502, 1507
Rio Bermejo, San Jeronimo de, 1817ff.
Rio Grande (Bolivia), 1692, 1732;
(Guadalajara), 519; (Ica),
1360; (Tucuman) 1775, 1779
de la Madalena, v. Magdalena
Rio Nevado, 27, 34
Riobamba, 70, I100, I11off., 1143, 1145,
1317, 2045, 2059
, Don Pardo de, 1900
Rioja, La (Tucuman), 1776ff., 1786,
1907
River, underground, 1192, 1775
Roa, Domingo de, 1670
, Miguel de, 1672
Roads, 1114; v. King’s Highway
Roatan, v. Ruatan
Robalo (Centropomus sp.), 928
Robledo, Jorge de, 1004, 1071, 1073ff.
Robles, Juan de, 1267
Robles’ purge, 1722
Roca Inca, 1504f., 1545, 1548ff., 1587
Rock crystal, 311
Rodadores (mosquitoes), 1117, 1386,

13
Rodas, San Juan de, 1009, 1679, 1712,
1746, 1906
, Gaspar de, IOII, 1028
Rodela, Rio, 1085
Rodeos, 578
Rodriguez, Cristobal, 1390
=. Erancisco, [1
Gregorio, 357
Suarez, Juan, 261ff., 96o0f.
de Varas, Pedro, 1672
de Villafuerte, Juan, 1500
Rojas, Ana de 1053
, Gabriel de, 606
Roles, Sir Duarte, 167
Rollos (yoke pads), 1711
Romans, 1464
Rome, 1251, 1270, 1479, 1490, 1536
Romero (soldier), 1989
, Capt. Gomez, 1994
Ronchas (disease; hives?), 326
Rondanillo, 1072, 1090f.; Rold-, rroo,

2045
Rondon, Gonzalo Suarez, 953, 955
Ropemakers, 10934, 2016
Ropes, 962, 1925, 2017f., 2020
Rosaries, 505, 577
Rosario (Moluccas), 790, 821
Rosary, Our Lady of the, 1401
Rosel, Juan, 1672
Rosemary, 1725
Roses, 475, 564, 952, 1725, 1782
Rosill6, Licentiate, 1345
Rota (tintilla, grape), 662
Royal Apartments, 1311, 2018

845

Royal Officials, Patrimony, Treasury,
106, 123, 133, 304f., 308, 365,
462, 522, 528, 539, 644, 693,
723, 767, 777, 838, 841, 907,
916, 921, 932, 935, 949, 1003,
1028, 1066, 1004, IIOI, III0,
1130, 1169, 1175, 1220f., 1235,
1301ff., 1303ff., 1332, 1343,
1416, 1435, 1441, 1448, 1451f.,
1613, 1627, 1637, 1662, 1606f.,
1741, 1828, 1801, 2012, 2036ff.,
2048, 2057
Ruatan, 701; also Roatan
Rubies, 778, 782
Rue, 1725
Rueda, Antonio de, 1670
, Pedro Garcia, 1670
Rufo, Don Juan, 62
Ruins, 1342f.; v. Inca, Maya
Ruiz, Augustin 558
de Contreras, Juan, 175
, Diego, 1057
Father, 358
de Gamboa, Marshal, 1946
, Juan, 156

5

Sa=vaZa=

Saavedra, Jeronimo Lopez de, 1673

Saba, 58; Assab?

Sabaleta (fish), 1024

Sabalo (fish), 928, 1729, 1772, 1785,
1792, 1818

Sabana (Carib word), 1007, 1027

de Bogota, 948, 2046

Saboya (Indian chief), 974

Sacaba, 1641

Sacaca, 1551, 1889

Sacama, 1406

Sacar: sacan bueyes para arar, 1037

Sacasaca, 1547

Sacatelan, 525

Sachica, 948, 953, 2046

Sacks (costales), 1616

Sacrifices, 63, 518, 1372, 1380, 1403

Sacristan, 2052

Mayor, 2052

Sacsahuaman (-agu- V), I49I, I5o!,
1525, 1562, 1572

Sacsahuana (-agu- V), 1537, 1593,
1626; Xacxag-, 1872; Xaqui-
xag-, 1480, 1626; Xaquixagu-
anga, 1537

Sacsama, 1416

Sacsamarca, 1533

Sacualpa (Saqu- V), 464, 477,
810, 845, 862

Saffron plasters, 1721

Sago (sagumaruco), 790

Saguan, 554; Xaguan?

Saguaypata, 1688

Sahumerio (steaming), 1717

482,

846

Sailors, 1274, 2015

Sails, 1212, 1286, 2019
Saino, 1018; v. Peccaries
Saint, v. with San

Sal de ventana, 1494
Salado, Rio El, 1773, 1775

Salah, 801

Salamanca (Spain), 342, 450, 502, 524,
654, 708, 1275, 1277, 1280,
1602; (Yucatan), 337, 339,
341, 345, 812

, University of, 450, 1275, 1277,

1280

Salaries, 30, 493, 495, 528, 5490, 567,
823ff., 844ff., 862ff., 865ff.,
II00, I147, 1290, 1302, 1345,
1441, 1450, 1452, 1457f., 1460f.,
1613, 1633, 1635, 1650ff.,
T6O6f.,. 41702) 17001, 1741,

1935, 1940, 201Iff., 2022, 2058
, Ecclesiastical, 357f.; v. Eccle-
siastical Income
Military, 1200, 1302ff.
Teachers’, 358
Salas (Piura), 1162
Salazar, Pedro de, 1689
Salazar Espinosa, Juan de, 1794
Salazar de las Palmas, 966, 1896
Salcedo, Diego Lopez de, 712
(-lse- V), Francisco de, 2054
Iauregui, Lope de, 1048; -Ize-
1043, IO5I
Saldafia, Francisco de, 1265
Salduendo, Lorenzo de, 1200, 1206ff.

Salinas, Leas, 1680; 1713) “Tore -v.
Misque
, Juan de, 1128, 1138, 1196, 1200,
1850

Marqués de, 1272f., 1680

Salineros (Indians), 471

Salitre (alkali), 1351

Sallauparcos, 1872

Salloe (Sallo V), 1869

Salmedina, I

Salmer6n, Judge 372

Salt, 137ff., 165ff., 248, 319, 467, 530,
533, 560, I005f.; 1137, 1201.
1419, 1434, 1437, 1447, 1451f.,
1537, 1545, 1655, 1756, 1809,
1954, 2021

Salta, 1766, 1787, 1907

Saltillo, 538, 541, 820

Salto (Uruguay), 1809

Saltpeter, 1200, 1447, I915

Saltwort, 1722

Salvador, v. San Salvador

, Capt., 1938

Salvages (wild men), 278

Salvaledn de Yguey, 803; Higiiey

Sama, 1412, 1416, 1419, 1632, 1638

Saman, 1615, 1865, 2059

Samaniego, Lope de, 544

Samudio, v. Za-

INDEX

San Amaro (Chile), 1985
San Andrés (Chile), 1985; (Colom-
bia), Zor; (Ecuador) Marzo;
1145; (Mexico), 820
, Rio de, 1011
San Anton, Cape, 24, 289
San Antonio, Sierras de, 516
San Antonio de Guatusco, 392, 849;
Huatusco
San saa de Monte de Plata, 109,
03
San Antonio de los Suchitepeques, 638
St. Augustine, 1152; (Florida), 308ff.,
313, 808
» Cape: (Brazil), ) 28) 35; 45,0585
(Chile), 1985
River, 943
St. Bartholomew, 1609
San Bartolomé (Mexico), 558f., 568,

593
St. Bernard, Order of, 1264, 2053
San Bernardo (island), 4
San Buenaventura (Peru), £324
San Cebrian, Cape (Chile), 1984
San Cristobal (Chile), 1952; (Colom-
bia), 950, 971, 1896; (Guate-

mala), ‘62357 (Peru) ) 1087.
1327

San Damian (Peru), 1326

San Diego de Huejotzingo, 385

San Estéban (Chile), 1985

del Puerto (Mexico), 470

San Felipe (Maranon), 218; Sao
Felippe; de Austria (Cu-
mana), 134, 806; Cariaco;
(Oruro), 1635, 1746, 1886,
1906

de Campos (Venezuela), 193
y San Miguel (Michoacan), 503,

814, 853

San Félix, Cape (Chile), 1984

St. Francis, 1402

San Francisco, Rio de (Bogota), 943;
(Pasto), 1084

San Francisco de Campeche, 812; v.
Campeche

San Francisco de Cocas, 1459

San Francisco de Esquilache (Moque-
gua), 1400, I411; each time
deleted in Vj; an _ ancient
name for Santa Catalina
(Moquegua) ?

San Francisco de la Vitoria (Cuzco),

1904
San Guillén (Chile), 1085
St. Hippolytus, 432
San Ildefonso (Mexico), 509;
(Peru), 1162; v. Villalta
de Caras, 1328

San Jacinto (saint), 1401; (Guate-
mala), 657
San Jerdnimo (Cuzco), 1879;

(Jauja), 1325, 1338

INDEX

de los Corazones (Mexico), 544,

553
del Monte (Colombia), 1003, 1036,
1896
San Jorge, Rio de (Colombia),
6

1024,
103
San Josef (Trinidad), 135, 141ff., 145,
148, 204, 807
San Juan (Cuyo), r4oI, 1933; (Hu-
ANMCO) 51 13025 J (lica)ian1322.
1354, 1611; (Margarita), 124;
(Nicaragua), 716; (Puerto
Rico), 115, 117f., 804, 836;

(Yucatan), 357

de Amatitlan, 628, 750

de la Laguna (Cumana), 248f.,
806

de los Llanos, v. Llanos

del Oro (Cuzco), 1904

de la Ribera (Tucuman), 1907

de Rodas (Charcas), v. Rodas

de Sinaloa, 543, 802

de Titoguacan, v. Titoguacan

de Ulloa (Ulta V), 362, S00, 514,
862

, Order of, 1210

San Juan de Dids, 295, 375, 454, 493,

527, 1206, 1346, 1470, 1637,
1639, 1680, 1708, 1930
San Lorenzo (Bolivia), 1690, 1693;

(Colombia), 946, 949; (Hua-
rochiri), 1326
San Lucas (Guadalajara), 819

, Cape, 534
San Luis (Marafion), 218f., 221, 223;

Sao Luiz

de Huari (Peru), 1328

de Loyola (Argentina), 1900,
1931, 1938

de La Paz (Mexico), 492; Sier-
ragorda

de Potosi (Mexico), 4o1ff., 503,
814, 831, 837f., 853
San Marcelo (Chile), 1983
San Marcos (Cajamarca), 1161, 1187;
(Pincos), 1375
San Martin (Ica), 1354
de Avind (Guadalajara), 529, 8190
San Matéo (Florida), 308; v. Huan-
cha

San Matias (Colombia), 950, 1806;
San Matéo?; (Venezuela),
972; San Matéo?

San Miguel (Azores), 6; (Caja-
marca), 1161; (Huanuco),
1366; (Salvador), 662, 663ff.,
759, 815

de Culiacan, 305, 503, 550, 819
, Rio, 1085, 1088
y San Felipe (Michoacan), 503,
814, 853
del Tucuman, 1769, 1907
San Nicolas, Cape, 289

847
San Pablo (Cajamarca), 1161, 1179;
(Puebla), 482; (Tepeaca),
389
San Pedro (Honduras), 608, 816;
(Venezuela), 972
, Cerro de (Colombia), 1013;
(Mexico), 404
, Rio de (Pasto), 1084
y San Pablo (Moluccas), 790,

821
y San Pablo, Rio de (Mexico),

371, 474
San Rafael (Tarma), 1327, 1366
San Rosendo, 1962
San See 632, 655, 750, 815, 832,

40
San Sebastian (Fla.), 310; (Guadala-
jara), 819; (Venezuela), 154,
162, 249, 273f., 800
de la Plata, 1039, 1896
San Vicente (Charcas), 1906;
pez), 1759
de los Paeses (Colombia), 1896
St. Vincent, Cape, 6
San Vitoriano, Bay of, 1985
Sania, 1161, 1165, ) TI6oOf.. 11236,6 1316;
1574, 1845, 1902, 2031, 2038
Mitimas de, 1850
Sanchez, Alonso (of Huelva), 29
: Andrés, III
Bejerano, Luis, 1672
de Espinosa, Diego, 324
de la Hoz, Pedro, 1989
Mexia, Juan, 1672
Tinoco, Hernando, 355
Sancti Spiritus, 290, 808
Sanctuaries, 1332
Sand, 1387, 1308
Sandals, 1206; v. Ojotas
Sandia (Caravaya), 1613

Gee

eanloray Gonzalo de, 430, 500, 508,

99

Sangarara (San Ga- V), 1869

Sangaro, 1309, TA31, 1434, 1553; Hu-
anta?

Sangavan (Peru, province), 1542,
1630

Sangayayco, 1455

Sangleyes (Philippine Islands), 775f.

Sangolqui (Quito), 1144

Sanlticar de Barrameda, I, 6, 143

Santa, 1168; 1217; 1202) 1316; %132t,
1324, 1331, 1334, 1336, 1376,
1379, 1560, 1847, 1901, 2041

, Rio de, 1164, 1218

Santa Ana (Guatemala), 658; (Peru),

1236; 1328; 1390; (Yuca-

tan), 357
Barbara, 1012; (Ecuador),
(Mexico), 542, 558,

1120;
820

1409; (Chile),
(Peru), 1400f., 1905

Santa

Santa Catalina, 1985 ;

848 INDEX
Santa Clara (Chile), 10984 868, 923, 935, 1216, 1374;
Santa Cruz (Paria), 195 (island), v. Hispaniola

de la Sierra, 1685, 1746f., 1910, de Huailas, 1328

1983, 2032, 2039, 2044, 2056
la Vieja, 1690f., 16093
y Padilla, Hernando de, 1235, 1250
Santa Elena (Fla.), 311
, Punta de (Ecuador), 1122
Santa Fé (Argentina), 1783, 1820,
1823ff., 1908; (Colombia),
E62 157) Q505. WW. bogota;
(Mexico), 446, 463, 478, 810;
(N. Mex.), 549, 565, - 567;
(Panama), 904, 1895

de la Sierra (Bolivia), 1679,
1681ff.
Santa Inés (Lima), 1309
Santa Tucia” (Chile); 109263, (lca)
1554; (Yucatan), 357
, Cerro de (Honduras), 704
New Kingdom of, 541
Santa Maria (Chile), 1950, 1981,
2019; (Colombia), I011;
(island), 6; (saltworks,

Guadalajara), 855
de los Lagos (Guadalajara), 523,

819
de la Vitoria (Tabasco), 337

Santa Marta, 1398, 1402f.; (Colom-
bia), 3, 103, 106, 269, 288, 923,
o3iff., 946, 948, 950, 1611,

1898, I915, 2029, 2035f., 2054
Santa Teresa de Jestis (nun), 1396
Santana, Capt., 937
Santiago (Chocorbos), 1443,
1458; (Lucanas), 1430
de Aljange (Panama), 904, 1895
de Arma (Colombia), 1074, 18096
de Atitlan, 637
de los Caballeros, 108, 803
del Cercado (Lima), 1252
de Chile, 1330, 1900, 1921, 1926ff.,

1455,

1939, 1980, 1988, 2000, 2017,
2021, 2027, 2033, 2040, 2047,
2054

de Cuba, 106, 290, 293, 808, 830,
835, 865, 870

de las Montafias (Ecuador), 1139,
1900; Montas, I102

del Paso (Bolivia), 1888
del Principe (Guatemala), 660

de los Valles (Mexico), 464,
10, 845

de Yucatan, 357

, Rio de (Colombia), 1084;
(Ecuador), 1113

Rio Grande de, 1779
Order of, 414f., 446, 557, 687,
1224, 1262, 1440, 1593, 1695,
1914, 2054
Santillan, Seichan 1236
Santo Domingo (city), 103ff., 256, 280,
288, “803, 824, 830, 836, 865,

, Alonso de, 105
St. Thomas, 1195
Santo Thomas (Cajamarquilla), 1162;

(Chachapoyas), 1190; (Gua-
temala), 669, 608, 815; also
Tomas

Santo Tomé (Guiana), 121, 151, 168f.,
190, 204, 269, 273, 275, 807,
956; Angostura, Ciudad Boli-
var

Santor (Sandoricum indicum), 783

Santos, Los (Panama), 901, 1805, 2044

Sanzoles (Sanso- V), Lucrecia de,
1264

Sao Paulo, 1810

Saona (Santo Domingo), r1of.

Sapallanga (La Xapa- V), 1325, 1338,

1555

Sapallo, v. Zapallo

Sapayos (Indians), 201

Sapodilla, 283

Sapote, 220, 231;

, black, 484

Saqueta, Rio de,
queta?

Saragossa, v. Zaragoza

Saraguro, 1566

Saramisu, 1577

Sardines, 1007, 1204, 1420

Sarmiento, Francisco, 1660

Saroma, Chiay (Chia y?),
Zaruma

Sarria, Lopez de, 412

Sarsaparilla, 326, 366, 701, 755, I1109,
1723

Sauces, Los (Arequipa),

Satico (elder), 1815

Sava, 1577

Savagery, 1577

Savoyard, 1442

Sawmills, 626, 900, 903; v. Lumber

Sayales (flannels), 1770, 1784

Saycusca, 1528

Saylla (Cuzco), 1879

Sayre (also Saire, V) Tupac Inca,
1594, 1596

Sayrecacha, 1871

Sayula (Mexico), 855

Scandinavia, 59

Schools, 1268, 1271;

Scipio, 1479

Sciullay (Peru), 1307

Screens, 1386

Scribes, v. Secretaries

Scrofula, 1722

Sea birds, 1415, 1418f.

Seal, Royal, 1700

Sealing wax, 1958

Sea lions, Seals, 1383f.,
1751ff., 1826

also -ta, Zapote

1083f., 1088; Ca-

1867; v.

1409

v. Colleges

1415, 1420f.,

INDEX

Seasons, 601, 975, I012, 1225, 1363,
1979

Sebaco (Nicaragua), 717; Sev-, 749

Sebastian, Padre Juan, 1272f.

Sechura, 1162, 1851; Agec-, Ansec-,

131
Secretariat (Secretaria), 85, 286, 802,
8221.
Secretaries, Council, 1441, 1702, 1706;
v. Escribano
, Court, 1697, 2027, 2048f.
Indian, 1185
Public, 1441, 1702, 1706
State (de Gobierno), 462
Sedan chair, 426
Sedefio, Juan Nujfiez, 504
Segovia (Spain), 734
, Nueva (Nicaragua), 705, 716,
817; (Philippine Islands),
780, 821, 834, 867, 883
Nueva, de Barquisimeto, 277
Segura (Puebla), 822
Seibo Uae V) (Santo Domingo),
O

3
Seises (dancers), 1709
Selve (Guiana), 166
Sementeras (agricultural land), 2011
Seminary, 1705, I710f. 1741, 1797,
1929; v. Colleges
Sencillos (coins), 1663
Seneca, 30
Sennacherib, 58
Sefiora, 553; Sonora?Senorita?
Sefios (Indians), 167, 1090
Septuagint, 20
Sepulturas, Las (Bolivia), 1313
Serena, La (Chile), 1296, 1909, 1921,
1931, 1939, 1990, 2009, 2047;
(Spain), 2009
Sergeants, 1299, 2014
-at-Arms, 1697
Major, 1208, 1210, 1299, 1952, 2012
Seron, Antonio, 1669
Serrana (shoal), 4
Serranilla, 4
Serrano de Caceres, Miguel, 1210
Serrato, Juan Lopez, 1212
Sertao, 1811
Service, Indian, 995, 1042, 1066, 1083;
vy. Encomienda
Seven Wonders, 1527
Sevilla (Colombia), 939, 1808; (Ja-
maica), 324° (Spain); 103,
II5, 324, 437, 463, 1031, 1235,
1244, 1251, 1606, 1611, 1661,
1978
del Oro, 1107, 1111f., 1900; Macas
del Oro, Rio de, 1113
Shad, v. Sabalo
Sheep, 1110, 1177, 1446, 1455f., 1487,
1615, 1638, 1665, 1783, 1937,
2017
Sheepskins, 1469, 1473
55

849

Shellfish, 1750

Shem, 17, 57, 801

Shepherds, 1552

Shingles, palm, 1796

Ship building, Shipyards, 716, 720, 752,
890, 903, 1980

Shipworms, 722, 1293

Shirts, 2020

Shoemakers, 1603, 1706, 1034

Shoes, 2021

, cordovan, 1096

Shrimps (camarones), 367, 470; v.
Crayfish

Shrine = ermita, e.g., 117

Sianca (Ciancas V), Rio de, 1766

Sicasica, 1631, 1882, 2044; Cicacica,

1313

Sicaya (Jauja), 1338; Cicaya, 1325

Sichul (Michoacan), 482, 503, 853;
Sichu, 814; Suchil today

Sicicaya (Zizi- V), 1309

Sickness, valley, 1365, 1484

Sicuani (-ana V), 1868

Sicuique, Rio, 556

Sierra, JerOnimo de 1669

de Leguizamon (Legizamo V);

Juan, 1589; (-isamo V),
Mancio, 1513
Sierra Nevada (Chile), 1972, 1978,

1995; (Colombia), 3, 934,
069; (Peru), 1225, 1607; v.
Cordillera

Siete Corrientes, 1790ff., 1813ff., 1908

Sieves, 1716

Sigchos (Sichos V),
1571, 2059

Siguas, 1218, 1371, 1387f., 1902, 2043;
Ci-, 1328, 1839

Sigtienza (Spain), 548, 1226

Silacayoapan (-cuyapa V), 848

Silk, 502, 512f., 637, 773, 778, 1202,
1426, 1664

Silkweavers, silkworkers, 1233, 1706,
1934

Silkworms, 505

Silva, Baltasar de Gonzalez, 265

, Diego de, 265
Domingo Gomez de, 1271, 1295
Gaspar de, 265

Silver, 102, I15, 142, 165, 210, 279, 280,
334, 417, 473, 476ff., 481, 404,
498, 500, 503, 507, 514f., 523,
525ff., 520f., 533, 536, 542,
566f., 504, 664, 696, 702, 704ff.,
820, 886, 801, 932, 938, 942,
945, 951, 954, 960, 970, 976,

1108f., 1146,

IO4I, I09I, 1097, I120, 1127,
T1209, 1132), TIssy Im5o, TwL64>
1168, 1181, 1183, 1187, 1204,

1213, 1302f., 1337, 1365, 1369,
1371, 1373) L3/7its 1392, 1405,
1434, 1440ff., 1445, 1447ff.,
1460, 1467, 1460f., 1472, 1482f.,

850 INDEX

1486, 1514f., 1532, 1616, 1636,
1643, 1645, 1640ff., 1658, 1675,
1679, 1682, 1688, 1691, 1745,
1759, 1761f., 1768, 1785, 1788
mark = It oz. silver, 65 reals, 526,
1379, 1449, 1625, 1675
standard, 1656ff.
Silversmiths, 165, 756, I0Q1, 1113,
1339, 1405, 1601, 1603, 1706
Simancas (Colombia), 1064
Simapan, 464, 810, 845, 862
Simball (Zimbal V), 1160, 1179, 1556
Sin, unpardonable, 1545, 1556
Sina (lomas), 1384
Sinagua, 503, 814, 853
Sinaloa, 543, 553
Sinbundoy (Ecuador), 1084; cf. Cin-
gondoy
Sinchi Roca, 1507, 1538f., 1587
Sincicap (Cincicapa V), 1161
Sincos (Ci- V), 1325
Sindareo (Michoacan), 503, 854
Singing, 689
Sinodo = ecclesiastical salary: pesos
de sinodo, 1450, 1458, 1461,
1680, 1888, 1891, 1893
Sinsonte (mockingbird), 1117
Sinte (Bolivia), 1761
Sipesipe, 1888; Sipisipi, 1547, 1640;
Cepicepi, 2059
Siqui (ferret), 1741
Sira (?Sina?) (Spain), 442
Situado (budget, pay roll), 140, 2011ff.
Siuti (fruit), v. Ciuti
Skunks, 586, 1740
Slavery, Slaves, 104, 107, 127ff., 198,
328, 330, 340, 358, 377, 430,
520, 630, 664, 660, 704, 718,
767, 916, 936, 944f., 951, 964,
1027f., 1035, 1076, 1240, 1250,
1258, 1272) 1280, 1201, 1333)
1345, 1349, 1353, 1599, 1706,
1828, 1927, 1935, 1995, 2000
Slings, 1563
Sloths, 991, 1019
Smallpox, 407
Smelting, 1467, 1651; v. Mining
Smokers, 1808; v. Tobacco
Smuggling, 1658
Snake-grass, 254
Snake-plant (vibora), 1722
Snakes, 254, 505ff., 792, 1019, 1720,
1722, 1760ff., I791
Snow, 1380, 1438, 1758, 1016ff., 1936
pyramid, 1486
Soap, 478, 514, 684, 1767, 2021
plant, 684
Soata, 948, 2046
Sobras (excess tribute), 1460
Sobrino, Domingo, 1671
Socabaya, v. Sucahuaya
Sococha, 1787
Soconusco, 580f., 642, 818, 832, 840

Socorines, 1812
Socoroma, 1416
Socorri6, 2011; -ieron, 2016
Socota (Zo- V), 1161
Sodomites, v. Sin
Sogamoso, 948, 953, 2046
Solana (Piura), 1851
Solares (houses), 1707
“Soldados honrados” (soldiers of for-
tune), I661
Soldiers, cavalry, 2014
, infantry, 2014
Solicitador (solicitor), 1697
Solomon, 31
Solorzano, Frutos de, 569
ee de, 24, 98, 280, 324, 424,

Melchoir de, 569
Pedro de, 560ff., 654
Sombrerete, 536, 538, 819
Somoto, 7II
Sondor, 1871
Sondores, San Juan de los, 1327; cf.
Condores
Songochechallana
Challana ?
Sonora, v. Senora
Sonsonate, 632, 641f., 644ff., 759, 815,
832, 84of.
Soothsayers, v. Wizards
Soporific, 1722
Soras, Los, 1436, 1478, 1486, 1548,
1853; Su- 1454
Sorasora, 1636
Sorata, 1303
Sorcerers, v. Wizards
Soroche (mining term), 1651
Sosa, Mencia de Almaraz y, 1260
Soto, Bartolomé de, 975
, Hernando de, 306, 313, 320, 699
Soto (tree), 1714, 1716
Sotomayor, Alonso de, 891, 1964
, Fernando Tello de, 1366
Francisco de, 2055
Gabriel Ortiz de, 1662
Sotuta: Zututa, 340; Zatuta, 356
Spain, 73, 1408, 1464, 1663
, New, 68, 288, 294, 362, 3094,
82off., 862
Spaniards, 282, 424ff., 790, 793, 795
Spanish (language), 72f.
captives, 1820f.
individualism, 1578
Main (Tierrafirme), 45, 59, 62,
I2I, 131, 269, 288, 293, 806,
822, 888, 2022, 2051
Spears, 1830; v. Lances
Spider bites, 1720
Spies, Indian, 266,° 1963ff.
Springs, 592, 650f., 759, 766, 1109,
1640; v. Hot springs
Spur (espuela), 265
Squirrels, 585, 1920

(Bolivia), 1885;

INDEX

Stade = 1.85 yard
Staking claims, 1649
Stars, I515
Statues, 1621; v. Pucara
Steel, 1526, 2018
Stephanite, 1655
Sterling silver standard, 1656
Steward (Mayordomo), 579; v. Su-
perintendent
Stockings, 981, 1087, 1390, 1819
Stone, 434
axes, 1088
crystals, 1811
cutters, 1934
in bladder, 1723, 1750
, medicinal, 1721
Straw, 1385, 1390, 1509, IS5II, 1547,
1620, 1699, 1963
Strawberries, 1726, 1923; v. Frutilla
Suarez, Inés, 1988
, Juan Rodriguez, 261ff., 96o0f.
Rondon, Gonzalo, 953, 955
Subdelegate General, 1703
Subsidy to Indians, 2019
Subterranean water, 1351
Sucahuaya (-agu- V),
Socabaya
Sucara (vulture), 1738
Sucha (-as V), 1328
Suchil, v. Sichul; (tree), 591
Suchimilco, v. Xochi-
Suchipila, 525, 557; cf. Xochipala
Suchitepéquez (-ue and -ues V), 70,
632, 642, 832, 840
Sucre (Bolivia), v. Plata, La
Sucumbios, 1078, 1084, 1896
Suerre, 894; today Pacuare
Suesca, 2046; Suesia, 948
Suevi, 28
Sugar, 104, 475, 625, 779, 954f., 966,
IOI5, I155, 1166, 1170, 1480,
1598, 1603, 1607, 1627, 1620,
1645, 1684, 1799, 1812, 1933
mills, 482, 490, 510, 1205, 1331,
1333, 1366, 1385, 1690
Sugredo, Diego de Porras, 1253
Suicide, 1025
Sulco, de (village), 1295; Surco?
Sulfur, 629, 759, 762, 1129, 1209, 1405,
I4II, 1414, 1448
Sulla (Huancavelica), 1549; Sullana?
Sullana, 1575
Sultepec (-tepeque V), 464, 477, 482,
810, 845, 862
Sumac, 1720
Sun, Revolution of, roff., 1978f.
Temple (Cuzco), 1476f. 1408,
1503, 1509, I5IIff., 1540, 1559,
1618, 1626; (Huanuco),
TSO: (LavPaz)., 26263, @Liti=
caca), 1618; (Tomebamba),
1568; (Tumbes), 1575

1543; also

851

worship, 60, 76, 1120, 1158, 1490,
I51I, 1521f., 1536, 1538, 1557,
1572, 1579, 1622
Sula, Tin: Zunac?

Sunsapote (tree), 681
Superintendent (Mayordomo),
Church, 2052

1 City, 12325 1708
Confraternity, 1270
Estate, 1035
Hospital, 862, 1272, 1453,

1709, 1930, 2013

Mine, 1471
Ranch, 2013
Supervisor, v. Veedor
Suramarca, 1481; Curahuasi?
Surco, 1322, 1832; cf. Sulco
, San Jeronimo de, 1326

Surgeons, 1270, 1635, 1709, 2013
Suri (Bolivia), 1882
Surquillo, 1322
Surruqué (Fla.), 310
Surucache (Peru), 1868
Suta (Peru), 1563
Sutagaos, Los, 948, 2046
Sutarpo (tree), 1714, 1720
Sutiaba, 717, 731f., 738, 860
Suticuchucho, 1875
Suxco (?)) 1322
Sweden, 27, 59
Swine, 332, 501, 1665
Swordfish, 667, 1175, 1420
Swords, 2021
Syphilis, 116, 326, 457,

ALO 1721
Syrup, 1385, 1723, 1734

1667,

III7, 1708,

py

Taami (Colombia), 1005

Tabaco, Isla del, 149f.; Tobago

Tabaconas, 1162

Tabalosos, 1183, 1188, I19I, I199

Tabardillo fever, 1721, 1724

Tabasco, 339, 341, 345, 357, 368, 397,
579, 812, 831, 837

Taberneras de Madrid, 653

Tabucurt, Rio de, 223

Tacama, 1863

Tacamajaca (tacamahac gum), 580,
635

Tacana (ore), 1650

Tacarigua, 124, 805

Tacasaluma (-sol- V), 1027

Tacataca (woodpecker), 1738; also

Tacacata

Taclla (plow), 1446, 1727

Tacmar (-mara V), 1482, 1549

Tacna (Tacana V), San Pedro de,
1413f., 1632, 1638

Taco (charcoal), 1720

Tacobamba, 1890

Tacome (Ternate), 795

852

Tacuacin (-zin V) (Didelphys can-
crivora), 585

Tacuba, 223, 305, 430, 480, 482, 822,
831, 837, 862

Tacubaya, 482, 862; Tla- (q.v.), 4771.

Tadpoles, 363

Tafixa (Chiapas), 5092;
Tzalilja?

Tagnama, v. Lagnama

Tahuman, 351; today Uman

Tailors, 1603, 1706, 1934

Tajadas (slices), 643

Tajimarca (Taxi- V), 503, 854

Talamanca, 756

Talavera de = Madrid
1907; Esteco

Talcahuano (-agu- V), 1943, 10945,
1950, 1981, 2067

Talcamavida, 1952, 2001

Talgueno (Chilean chief), 2000

Talina, 1762:

Talise (De Soto Exp.), 316

Tallow, 1292, 1653, 1937, 2019

Tama, Sierra de (Fla.), 311

Tamalameque, 939, 1808

Tamara (Guiana), 152

Tamarinds, 580, 727, 788

Tamas (Indians), 167, 1090; Tamas?

Tambillo (Tanb- V), 1310

Tambo (tavern), II10, I149, 1205,
1357, 1361f., 1366, 1375, 14746,

Tzapilja?

(Tucuman),

1578; (Tarma), 1840; (Yu-
cay), 1537, 1554, 1871; cf.
Tampu

de Asia, 1315
del Hierro, 1811
Quemado, 1439
Rio de, 1395, 1397, 1404, 1409
Tamiahua (-agua V), 367, 3901, 472,
48
Rio de, 371
Tamires (sluice gates), 977
Tamocosiés (Indians), 1693
Tamos (N. Mex.), 567f.; Taos?
Tamos (Tampico), 471
Tampico, 390, 470ff.
Tampu (Peru), 1525
Tancayan (Santa), 1847
Tancitaro, 503; -nsi-, 854; Tancitaro
today
Tangarara, 1175, 1851; cf. Sang-
Tanipa (Bolivia), 1692
Tanneries, etc., 1720, 1857, 1934, 1937
Tanquigues (Vilcas), 1857
Tantar, 1875
Tantara, Asuncion de, 1450f.
Tantarcalla (-colla V), 1875
Tao (badge), 1708
Tapacari, 1888; Tapacri, 1546
Tapaén (Yucatan), 340
Tapaguastts (Indians,
1812
Tapalapa, 594

Argentina),

INDEX

Tapanecas (Indians, Mexico), 305f.,
400

Taparaco (Huamalies), 1375

Tapia, 1578

Tapioca, 1815; v. Mandioc

Tapirs, 1630, 1687, 1689; v. Dantas

Tapomichivilca, 1327; cf. Michivilca

Tapucurt, Rio de, 218; Tapurt?

Tapuyusstis (Maranon), 212

Lar, 705%) vs Pitch

Tarabuco, 1678

Taracchi (bird), 1738

Taraco, 1605, 1615, 1865, 2042, 2059

Taraguira (-ro V) (newt), 1813

Taramba, 2041

Tarapaca, 1410, 1416, 1418, 1422, 1634,
1665, 1748, 1760, 1863

Tarapaya, 1473, 1654, 1673

Tarasca (language), 490

Tarascos (Indians), 490

Tarasquillo, 465, 846

Tarata, 1413

Tarco (tree), 1714, 1716, 1719

Tarija, 1646, 1651, 1692, 1713, 1744,
1746, 1761f., 1789, 1906, 2043,
2048, 2050

Tarma (Tarama V), 1306, 1321, 1334,
1339, 1365, 1368, 1480, 1555,

1840, 2059

Tarshish, 31

Tartary, 7, 27, 34, 53ff., 590

Taruga (deer), 36f., 1458, 1975; also
Taruca

Tarumaes (fruit) (Vitex cymosa),

1604

Tasa, 1846, 1882, 2048, 2050; cf. 2048,
los tributos, que cobran de los
Indios, que llaman de tassas;
thus, tribute

Tasador (Appraiser), 1697

Tascaluza, 316f.; cf. Tuscaloosa

Tasco, 464, 477, 482, 810, 845, 862; also

axco

(Inca’s), 1523,

1573, 1580, 1592, 1594

Tatabara (peccary), 1018

Tatacana Cae 1416

Tattooing, 551, 560

Tatu (Tatuu V) (armadillo), 1771

Taubina (Colombia), 1012

Tauca, 1328

Taulia, 1162

Taurisma, 1486, 1543

Tavaconufio (Potosi), 1654

Taverns, 1184, 1665; v. Tambo

Tassel 1540, 1552f.,

‘Taxco, v. Tasco

Taxes, 69, 381, 525, 704, 1448, 1451f.,
1461, 1649, 1710, 1885; v. In-
dian tribute, Quinto, Tasa

Tayabamba, 1162

Tayacaja (-caxa V), 1856

Taypeayllo (Aymaraes), 1874

Tayroma (-ruma V), 1872

INDEX

Tayrona (Colombia), 934

Tayzar, Rio de (Yucatan),
Tayza, 339

Teabo (Teab V), 351

Tealpongo (Tula), 410

Teamsters, 1767; cf. Muleteers

Teapa, 410

Teata (Luya), 1162

Teato (Tula), 410

Tecasuchiles, 525

Techuchulco, 410

Tecocuilco, 511; -cuuilco, 851;
Teococuilco

Tecoh (Ti- V), 352

Tecolquines, 525; Tecosquines?

Tecoluca, 659

Tecomavaca, 518

Tecontepongo (Tula), 410;
pec?

Teeth, iii,

Tegitas (i. e., tejitas, little tiles), 515

Tegucigalpa (Teguse- and Tegusig-,
V), 406, 667, 695, 702ff., 754,
756, 816, 832, 840, 906

Tehuacan (Tegu- V), 301, 848

338;

also

Tezonte-

Tehuantepec (Teguantepec, -peque,
V), 403, 433, 507, 510f., 517,
813, 850
Tejeda, Tristan de, 1781
Mirabal, Juan de, 1780f., 1784

Tekanto (Teca- V), 350

Telares (looms), 1783

Telchac (-chaque V), 352

Telica (town and volcano), 732, 758

Tello de Sotomayor, Fernando, 1366

Temascaltepec (-peque V), 464, 482,
810, 845, 862; Temaxcaltepe,
477; -xcaltepeque, 478

Temavaca (Oaxaca), 511, 851; Teco-
mavaca?
Temax (Ti- V), 352
Temerendo (Michoacan), 854; cf.
Teremundo

Temples, 314, 340, 1120, 1332; v. Sun

Tenayuca, 480

Tendi (Bolivia), 1691

Tenerife (Colombia), 925, 939, 1067,
1898

Teneriffe, 1

Tenguelén (Chile), 1973

Tenoxtitlan, 417; Tenucht-, 397; also
Tenextillan and Tenochtitlan

Tensa, 948, 953f., 2046

' Tent, 2018

Tenuch (Aztec prince), 397

Teocalli, 1477; also Teocali, Teucali

Teopantlan (Teupatlan V), 397

Teotitlan (Teu- V), 397, SH, 518

del Camino, 851

Teozacoalco (-osa- V), SII; Teosa-
qualco, 851

Teozopotlan, 517; Teozapotlan=
Zahachila

853

Tepantitlan (-panat- V), 633, 636, 8590
Tepeaca, 388f., 391, 420, 420, 822, 848
Tepeapulco, 465, 473, 846
Tepeaquilla, 480; Tepeyac?
Tepe ye) (language), 89; also Tepe-
qua
Tepehuanes (-egu- V; Indians), 542
Tepeji (-exi V), 480; Tepex, 479
de la Seda, 392, 849
Tepemechines (fish), 627, 639
Tepexco, 467
Tepezala, 819
Tepic (-pique V), 523
Teposcolula, 511, 850
Tepoztlan: -pozot-,
-posot-, 862
Teptlan (Tula), 410; Tepetlan?
eect (Indians, Guatemala), 669,
7
Teques, 261
Tequizistepeca, 516; Tequixtepec?
Terceras, 5f.
Tercero, Rio, 1784
Tercio (regiment), 2012
de minas (mine levy), 1941
Terecafé (Paraguay), 1806

464, 482, 845;

Teremundo (Michoacan), 503; cf.
Temerendo
Terepaima, 261; -paimas, 262; -payna,

970

Tereus, 1021

Ternate (also Teren-, V), 760, 78off.,
834, 842

Tesca (Cartagena), 928

Tesorero, v. Treasurer

Tetela, 464, 845

del Volcan, 465, 846

Teul, 525; San Andrés del Teul

Teusuacan, 525; Tetzoyucan? Texua-
can?

Teutenango, 465, 846—Tenango del
Valle

Teutila, 511, 850

Teutlalco, 811, 848

Texcoco: Tezcuco, 395, 422, 428, 431,
464, 466, 474, 822; Tescuco,
845, 862

Texcocanos (Tezcuc- V), 429

Texopa (-upa V), 511, 851

Teziutlan (Teci- V), 849; Tesiuctlan,

302

Theatres: Casas de las Comedias,
1667; Corrales de las C., 453,
455

Thefts, 2018

Theouacan, 397; Tehuacan

Thread, 303

Threshing floor, 1390

Thunder, 1398, 1516

Thunderbolt, 1516

Tiahuanaco (-agua- V), 131
1541, 1621, 1881

Tiangues (markets), 579

2, 1525,

854

Tiapolloachuca, 1840

Tiara (Peru), 1436

Tibitibes, 97, 170f.

Tiburon, Cape, 201

Ticah (CYucatan), 3513 Tekaxr De-
kak?

Tichel, 355

Ticllos, 1327

Ticul, 351

Tidal wave, 1385, 1396, 1404

Tide, 1212

Tidore, 780, 7093ff.; also Todore

Tierra Adentro, 830, 835

Tierra Caliente (Colombia), 2035

Tierrafirme, v. Spanish Main

Tigers, (i.e, jaguars), 1046, 1071,
1125, 1630, 1741, 1766, 1793

Tigues (N. Mex.), 545, 558

Tilantongo, 851; Tilalt-, 511

Tilcoya (Tula), 410

Tiles, 515, 1192, 1363, 1390, 1655, 1706

Tillaca, San Francisco de (Bolivia),
1616; Tiquilaca?

Tilmas (capes), 582, 686

Timal (Chachapoyas), 1849

Timana, 1043, 1062ff., Iogof.,

Timar (Arica), 1416

Timber, 242f., 335, 344, 348, 490, 17609,

1899

1798, 1947, 1971, 1975, 1980;
yv. Lumber

Timor, 790

Timurbamba (-mor- V), 1849; To-

mor-, 1162

Tin, 504, 1472, 1651, 1655, 1657

Tinguindin (Tingun- V), 503, 854

Tinoco, Hernando Sanchez, 355

Tinquipaya, 1676

Tinta, 1609, 1868

Tintin, 1726

, Rio. 1680

Tintin (Tinum V), 352

Tipa (tree), 1714, 1716, 1719

Tiquipaya (-quirp- V), 1640;
Taquipaya

Tiquisambe, 1569

Tiquitiqui (bird), 1738; Espasa lists
this as a Venezuelan plant
name

Tirhakah (King of Ethiopia), 58

Tirroh (Yucatan), 340; Tmod?

Mirua.( Diroa Vi); 1056

Tisaleo (Peru), 1571

Tiscocob (Yucatan), 355; Tzucacab?

Tithes, 381, 404, 513, 676, 1360, 1365,

also

1410, 1658, 1700f., 1744, 1930,
IQ4I

Titicaca, 1490, 1536, 1613, 1617ff.; v.
Chucuito

Titipaya (Cochabamba), 1888; Ita-
paya?

Titiri (Bolivia), 1643; Atitiri, 1414

Titoguacan, San Juan de, 465; Totig-,
846; Totimehuacan ?

INDEX

Titon, r9rof., 1987

Titu Inca, 1580, 1591

Tiucassa (Peru), 1569

Tiupuncu (Cuzco), 1531

Tixtla, 392, 849

Tiyavayo, Chimba de, 1864

Tizimin (Tecemin V), 352

Tizocic (Aztec prince), 4o2ff.

Tizon, Rio (Calif.), 534

Tlacalléelt (Aztec general), 4orf.

Tlacolula, 511, 851; cf. Tuculula

Tlacubaya = Tacubaya, q. v.; Aztec
form Atlacuahuayan (Eulalia
Guzman)

Tlalmanalco, 464, 845

Tlalpujahua (-uxagua V), 814, 853;
Talpuxagua, 503, 862; Talpu-
jagua, 498; Talpuzagua, 482

Tlalteloleo (Tlatellilco V), 403, 420,
436, 442; Atatilulco, 862; also
Tlatelolco

Tlaltenango (Telal- V), 525

Tlalzingo (Tlaxcala), 391, 848; -lIci-,
SII
Tlanenepantla, 223, 480, 831, 837;
Tlanepantla ?

Tlapa, 392, 476, 849; Tlalpam?

Tlaxcala ((Qlasc= V ); 366) 368) .3700-,
381ff., 391, 395, 397, 428, 433,
466, 811, 822, 831, 837, 848,
862, 864, 866, 873, 1407

, Sierra de, 386, 760
Tlaxcala range, 380
Tlaxcalilla (Tlasc- V), 406

Tlaxcaltecas (Tlasc-V), 395, 420,
426f., 420ff.
Tlazazalca: Tlacasalca, 503; Tlasas-,

854
Tleutalco (Tlaxcala), 391; Teotlalco?
Tleutitlan del Camino (Oaxaca), 511;
Teutlan? Teotitlan?
THlanama, 5253 Tlanamacona? Toli-

man?

Toads, 362, 892

Tobacco, 132, 146, 154, 278, 330, 714,
749, 972, 1044, II4I, I190,
1197, 1339, 1808

Tobago, 140f.

Tobar, Rio de (Argentina), 1764

Tobas (Indians), 1692

Tobati, 1800; also Tobaty

Tobosos (Indians), 559

Toca, 948, 953, 2046

Tocaima (-ayma V), 946, 1049, 1051,
10064, 1896, 1809, 2029, 2035

Tocantines, 215

Tocaurama (Carib chief), 182

Tocoache (Chilques), 1875

Tococachi (Cuzco), 1494
Tocompsi, 17553 -onsi, 1749; -onsé,
1748

Toconado (-nao V), 1740
Tocopalca, Rio de (Bolivia), 1763

INDEX

Tocopilla, 1748

Tocrama (Arica),
Tocto (bee), 1735
Tocuyo (Tuc- V), 277ff., 809, 1051,

1416

1060

Todos Santos, 221, 223; Todos os
Santos

Toledo (Peru), 1633, 1635, 1638;

(Spain), 381, 437, 1251, 1978
, Francisco de, 1147, 1455, 1459,
1466f., 1470, 1537, 1593, 1596,
1639, 1650, 1687, 1693, 1708,
1858, 1880, 1947, 2050
Tollo (fish), 1175, 1752
Toltén, Lake, 1995
, Rio, 1966, 1981
Toltengo, 410; Tultenango? cf. Tul-
Tolt, Santiago de, 924, 927, 994, 1807
Toluca, 465, 478f., 810, 847
Tomagatos (Ecuador), 1132
Tomahabe (wind), 1664
Tomatas (Indians), 1762
Tomatlan, 436
Tomatos, 1726

Tombs, 69, 995, 1600, 1631f., 1635f.,
1644; v. Guacas
Tomebamba, 1568; Tume-, 1525

Tomin, v. Real
Tomina, 1645, 1651, 1678, 1692, 1712f.,
1744, 1746, 1892, 1906, 2043
Tomollo (fish), 1420
Tomorbamba, v. Timur-
Tonala, 391, 652, 848
Tonatico, 392, 849
Tondo (Tundo V; Philippine Is-
lands), 775
Tononocarbamba
1870
Tononocolquepata, 1870
Tonteac (N. Mex.), 551
Tontitlaca (N. Mex), 545
Tonusco, Rio de, 1oo4f.
Tools, 1339
Topa Inca, 1092, I51I
Topeuch (Aztec prince), 308
Topia, 542, 820
Topil (Aztec prince), 308
Topilzin, 424; also Topiltzin
Topinambas, 217ff., 223; V_ writes
Topinambtts and Tapinambts
Toque (bugler), 20190
Torata, 1860
Tormento de toca, 1658
Toro (Colombia), 998, 1070, 1896
Torralba, Juana de, 1059
Torreblanca (Argentina),
Torrejon, Alonso de, 1708
Torres, Francisco Caro de, 889
, Juan de, 115
Montes, Juan de, 115
Naranjo, Matéo de,
, Tomas, 2056

(Paucartambo),

1779

1671

855

Tortillas, 378, 726

Tortoises, 1764, 1771;

Tortugas, 4

Tostado, EI (Bishop Alonso), 72

Toston =4 reals (one half dollar),
625

Totolapa, 465, 846

Totomachapa (-chiapa V), 514

Totomiuacan, 397; Totomixlahuaca?

Totonacos (-naques V), 371

Totonicapan (-capa V), 633, 635, 859

Totopon (Santa), 1324

Totora- (cattail)er6205" 11635, 1775;
(Bolivia) 1547, 1643, 1887; de
Dofia Beatriz, de Dona
Mayor, 1893

Totoral (cattail slough),

, El (Tucuman) 1779
Totos, 1857

v. Turtles

1417

Tow, 2019
Town (villa), 1695, 1913
Trade; Traders, 577; 582)°607, Ort,

659, 672, 726, 745, 767, 905,
927, 1202, 1205, 1415, 1442,
1606, 1614, 1971; v. Commerce
Traditions, Indian, 394ff.
Trapalanda (Santiago del
1786
Treasurer, v. Royal Officials
, Church, 868, 872ff., 2051ff.
Treatment of Indians and Negroes,
48, 51, 98, 102, 115, 128ff.,
134 175) 162) 9167; 200;2271,
279, 334, 376f., 605, 600, 756f.,
902, 905, 934, 995, 1025, 1189,

Estero),

LANA M217. 1273 al2ol ml sO5;
1390ff., 1440f., 1446, 1450,
1453, 1455, 1471, 1541, 16o1f.,
E630, 10435) 1- TO5Tits,0| 91663)
1935, I94If., 2018, 2050; v.
Corruption

Trees, 466, 588ff., 171 4ff.

Tres Puntas, Cape (Venezuela), 196

Triana (Peru), 1242, 12409f.; (Se-
ville), 1242

Tribunal de Cuentas (Exchequer
Court), 462, 838, 946, 9409,

2036, 2038
Tribunals, 1441; v. Courts,
Inquisition
Tribute, 51, 175, 197, 357, 396, 400,
404, 481, 513, 838, 1097, 1108,
1302, 1305ff., 1428, 1455ff.,
1450f., 1477, 1565, 1568, 1706,
1832ff., 1852, 1858, 1880, 1894,
2048; v. Tasa

Trinidad, 95, 121,, 131, 135) 140fi.;)5r,
179, 192, 194, 198f., 236, 244f.,

Crusade,

830, 835; (Argentina), 1147,
1908; (Cajamarca), 1161;
(Chocorbos), 1440, 1445,

1447; (Cuba), 290, 292, 808
, Gulf of, 245

856

de los Musos (Colombia), 975ff.,
1896
, Villa de la, v. Sonsonate
Tropic birds, 1420
Tropics, 9, 1979
Troubles, 1661
Trujillo (often Trux-, V) (Hon-
duras), 602f., 608ff., 816, 841;
(Peru), 60, 17054i.;, 1160,
1169; 1301, Al 3L0, 1321,.1330t.,
1405, 1428, 1560, 1852, 1902,
2031, 2038, 2041, 2050, 2052,

2059; (Spain), 324, 1051,
1503; (Venezuela) 279, 809,
960, I05I

, San Juan de (Colombia), 1896

Trumpet, 1400

Tuatecas (Oaxaca), 518

Tubara, 920

Tucapel (Indian chief), 2000, 2002;
(village), 1955f., 1992, 1995,
1990ff., 200Iff., 2005, 2010

Tucayan (N. Mex.), 554

Tucui (Santo Domingo), 108

Tucujus (Amazonas Indians), 211,
221

Tuculula, 467; cf. Tlacolula

Tucuman, 76, 1554, 1665, 1682, 1712,
1743, 1740f., 1764ff., 1769,
1786ff., 1831, 1959, 2032, 2039,
2055; v. San Miguel

Tucume, 1161, 1845

Tucuyo, v. To-

Tudela (Colombia), 973

Tuisumo (tree), 1714, 1720

Tula, 319, 410, 412, 464, 480,
Tulan, 307f., 408, 410,
Tullan, 410

Tulancingo (-nzi- V), 465, 468, 480,

846

(Carangas),

Turco? Tuyco?

Tulloca (Jaén), 1162

Tultengo de Motezuma,
416; cf. Toltengo

Tumbaco, 1144

Tumbes, 1120,
1851

Tuna (prickly pear), 382, 418

Tunapo (Trinidad), 148

Tunapuna (Guiana), 175

Tunguragua, 760, 1097,
also Tungurahua

Tunja, 152, 942, 946, 948ff., 953ff., 806,
2029, 2035, 2046

Tunnels, 1648

Tunny, 1752

Tuno (Paucartambo), 1550, 1606

Tupac Amaru Inca, 1596

Tupac Inca Yupangui, 1503, 1500,
1535, 1576, 1587.5 Lo-, isi;
DOu-,. 1477 ;,-Sue, 1477

845;
414;

Tulco

1643, 1745;

Conde de,
TTSUL,

TIO2) eS7At..

1109, 1406;

INDEX

Tupes (Caribs), 938

Tupiza, 1906; -isa, 1745, 1759

Turco, v. Tulco, Turque

Turiguaras (Amazonas Indians), 215

Turkeys, 161, 347, 1828

Turks, 7; 101

Turmequé, 948, 953, 957, 2046

Turnips, 1725

Turpentine, 985; v. Pitch

Turque (Bolivia), 1745, 1750, 1906;
Turco?

Turquoise, 551, 1568, 1755, 1919, 1987

Turron (nougat), 1043

Turtles, 172, 174, 206, 1021, 1201, 1204;
v. Tortoises

Tusa (animal), 792

Tuspa y Cazones, Rio de (Mexico),
371; ct. Duxpan

Tututepec, 397, 517

Tutuxius (Yucatan), 340— Tutul
Xius, tribe which founded
Uxmal

Tuxpan (-pa V), 473, 503, 854; cf.
Tuspa

, Rios de, 474

Tuxtépec (-peque V), 392, 840
Tuxtla, 852

Tuyabacoba (Paraguay), 1800
Twelve of Fame, 2010
Tzendales, v. Zen-

Tzitzantin (Cicontun V), 350

U

Ubaque, 948, 2046
Ubate, 948, 2046
Ubeda (Colombia), Io1r
Ubiedo, v. Oviedo
Ubinas, Los, 760, 1387, 1390, 1394,
1396f., 1402, 1410, 1860, 2043;
also Uvinas
Uchire (Venezuela), 248ff., 806
» palorde (tree) 9253
Uchos, 1870
Uchu (pepper, Capsicum frutescens),
1638; ucho, 1665, 1726
Ucochacora, Ucucha (plant), 1724
Ugarte, Fernando Arias, 1237, 2052
, Gonzalo de, 1210
Ulaba (Bolivia), 1645; Ilaba?
Ullaca, 1553; Ollagua?
Ullacache (Cuzco), 1866; cf.
cache
Ullcumayo (Ullocmayu V), 1327
Ulloa, Bartolomé de Astete, 1668, 1674
, Francisco, 1997
, Pedro de, 1666, 1672
Ulmecatlh (Aztec prince), 397
Uluia (Honduras), 707, 816
Umachiri (Oma- V), 1866
Umagata, San Francisco de, 1416f.;
Umagala?
, Santiago de, 1416f.

Oya-

INDEX

Uman, v. Tahuman

Umasayus, Umasuyo, v. Om-

Umay, 1322, 1340, 1446, 1833; also
Umai, Humay and Haumai

Umayo, v. Paucarcolla

Unare, Rio de, 134, 195, 245, 251

Unchurco (Chilques), 1875

Uncono (Peru), 1315; cf. Ocona

Uncu (shirt), 1523

Underground forts, 1534

Ungolpe (Aungolpe V), 1315

Unicorn, 487, 552

University 610; v. Colleges; (Inca),

1504f., 1549, 1550, 1591;
(lima), 1275ff., 1288; (a
Plata), © 1710); (Mexico),

1459
Unnoca (Carangas), 1887
Ununuyz (native name of Yucatan),

341
Upano, Rio (Op- V), 1112; also
Macas; v. Pano
Upar, 934, 937f.; today Valledupar
Los Reyes del Valle de, 1898
Uraba, 808, 927
Urabaes (Indians), 994
Uraca, Majes, 1862
Uracandi, Juan Pérez de, 2020
Uramarca, 1310, 1478, 1549,
Uramarpa ?
Urare (Colombia), 1037
Urcollaso (Ecuador), 1569
Urcon, 1872
Urcos, I31I, 1537, 1608
Urcosuio, 1612; -suyo 1616, 1866; cf.
r-
Urcotuna, v. Or-
Urcourco (Quispicanche), 1869
Urena (Argentina), 1766
, Bernardo de, 1670
Uriare, Cristobal (Indian chief), 247
Uribe, v. Or-
Urinary troubles, 1750
Uro (Cuzco), 1879
Uros (Indians), 1616, 1620, 1635, 1880,
1884
Urri (bird), 1020
Urribarracu (Fla. Indian chief), 306,

1604 ;

313

Ursua, Pedro de, 126, 958, 973, 1052,
LOOM, “MOOT, TOL, L107 fIL.,
1206ff., 1213; Urstia?

Urucara (mountains), 223

Uruche (tree), 1714, 1720

Urucuries (Indians, Bolivia), 1680

Uruguay, 1826

Urundey (wood), 1796

Urupaina (Tobago), 140

Uruquillas (Bolivia), 1886

Usadea (Arecaja), 1885

Usica, Toto, 1591

, Toto Catalina, 1601
Usila, 518; Uci-, 851

857

Usloca (Bolivia), 1745, 1906
Usmaca (animal), 991

Usquil (-uel V), 1161

Utrera, Ensign, 1040

Utunsulla, 1481, 1549; cf. Atunsulla
Uyumbicho (-chu V), 1571

V

Vaca, Capt., 534

de Castro, 1363, 1475, 1503, 19901
Vacan, 1772, 1795; v. Indios vacos
Vacapa (N. Mex.), 551; Huacapo?
Vacas, Rio de las (N. Mex.), 568
Vagabundos, Alguaciles de, 862
Vagazan (Paclas), 1162
Vagué, v. Ibagué
Valdemoro (Spain), 1254
Valderrama, Leonardo, 1708
Valdés, Fray Andrés de, 1053

, Juan Meléndez de, 1013, 1028,

1042
Valdivia (Chile), 1948, 1960, 1970,
1978, 1982, 1904f., 2009; (Co-
lombia), 1004, 1010
, Rio de (Chile), 1407, 1970, 1982;
(Colombia), 1012
Andrés, 1003, IOII, 1023, 1038
Jeronima, 1038
Luis de, 2019
Pedro de, 1919, 1921, 1925f.,
1943, 1955, 1960, 1970, 1976,
1986ff., 1980ff., 2003ff.
birds, 1023
Valdivieso, Antonio de, 735
Valencia, Nueva (Venezuela), 126,
261, 276, 800, 970, 1054; today
Valencia
, Gonzalo de, 1418
Pedro de, 2055
Valladolid (Ecuador), 1102, 1139,
1900; (Honduras), 692, 816;
(Mexico), 488, 503, 814, 853;
(Yucatan), 345, 350, 357t.,
812
Vallamo (Cartagena), 1897; Bayamo?
Vallano, 669, 809
Valle, El (Guatemala), 630, 859
Grande (Argentina), 1687
de San Pablo (Mexico), 862
, Marqués del, 475, 478, 503, 511,
S44, 690f., 844, 847, 852, 854,
af.

Valledtipar, v. Upar

Vallejo, Fray Ambrosio, 868, 2055

Valles, Los (Mexico), 469

Valley sickness, 1365

Valmisa (Bolivia), 1745, 1906

Valparaiso, 1980; -ayso, 1925f.

Valrica (? Verenica?) (Ica), 1354

Valtodano, Fray Benito, 882

Valuation, property (Cuzco), 1865;
(Santiago), 1926

858

Valverde, Francisco de, 890, 1353
Vanilla, 581, 682
Vaqueros (cowboys), 321, 1125
Vaquira (peccary), 160
Matal—=278 ftcrch 2017
Vara, Rio de (Guiana), 205, 208
Varas, Pedro Rodriguez de, 1672
Varcay, Coya Cuxi, 1594
, Mama, 1504
Vargas, Alonso de, 324
, Juan de, 1200, 1206ff.
Machuca, Bernardo de, 124, 1064
Machuca, Juan de, 140

Varima (Orinoco mouth), 189;
Parima?

Varrelo, 1651; barrelo?

Varuma, Rio de, 201

Vassalage, 420, 1580

Vausende (Galicia), 524

Vazquez, Antonio Garcia, 1669; V

often writes Vas-
de Coronado, Francisco, 305, 440,
502, 524f., 543ff., 553ff., 557,
565, 507
de Coronado, Juan, 708, 754
de Coronado, Marina, 548, 557
, Domingo, 267
de Espinosa, books by, 393, 1220,
1675, 1944, 1948, 1976, 1980,
1982, 2010
, Francisco, 111f.
Juan 111ff., 267
Lazaro, 263, 267
Lucas, 105
Martin, 324
Vecin (Aztec prince), 398
Veedor (Supervisor), 462, 842, 862,
922, 1440f., 1650, 2047f.
General, 2012
Vega, La (Jamaica), 324ff., 808
, Concepcion de la, v. Concepcion
Augustin de la, 1245
Francisco de la, 1245
Gabriel Laso de la 437
Garcilaso de la, 16orf.
Vegueta (Chancay), 1305, 1308, 1834
Vehementi oath, 1289
Veila (Oaxaca), 511; Ucila?
Veinticuatros (Aldermen), 1662
Vejamen (invective), 1277
Vela, Cape de la 3, 936
, Blasco Nunez de la, 1082, 1094
Velasco, cf. Belasco
, Carrion de, 1323, I9OI
Luis dej@771, 1154, 1272f., 1453,
1680
Capt. Orttin, 960, 964, 1061
Pedro Fernandez de, 1467
Pedro Ortés de, 430, 654
Velazquez, Diego, 105, 290, 292f.; -sq-
356, 424, 404
Vélez (Colombia), 950, 955; Veles,
1896

INDEX

Velille, 2042; Be- 1543; Billille, 1488
(Marg.: Bellille), 1605, 1876
Vellon (copper coinage), 461
Vélsares 282; the Welzers, Augsburg
merchants, were granted by
Charles V the exclusive settle-
ment of Venezuela, and in
1528 sent out an expedition
under Alfinger
Vemac (Aztec prince), 308
Vendesu, Angaraes, 1854
Venezuela, 106, 131, 255, 261, 260,
28off., 809, 830, 835, 865, 871
Venta del Medio, La, 1313
Ventaja (extra pay), 2014
Ventilla, La (Bolivia), 1313ff.
del Ingenio, 1315
Venus, 1515
Vera, San Juan de (Argentina), 1790,
1813ff., 1908; today Corrien-
tes
, Bartolomé Ximénez, 1669
Fernando de, 2053
Lorenzo de, 1670
Vera Cruz, 2, 4, 344, 363ff., 366, 374f.,
301f., 472, 500, 811, 838, 848Ff.,
862, 864
Vera Paz (Guatemala), 90, 634, 670ff.,
832, 840; today Verapaz
Veragua, 9orff., 2028, 2035
, Duke of, 106, 325
Verde, Cape, 28, 35, 45, 58, 328, 916
, Rio (Mexico), 5290
Verdugo, Dr. Don Francisco,
2052
Vergara, Guillermo de, 969, 1040
Verger (Pertiguero), 1230, 2052
Vermilion, 1464ff.
Vervain, 1725
Vespers, 1253, 1275
Vespuccius, Americus (Americo Ves-
pucio V), 24, 908
Vetas de Oro (Colombia), 960; today,
Vetas
Vetona (Colombia), 934
Viacha (Bolivia), 1626, 1631, 1881
Viaza (Uruguay?), 1826
Vibora (plant), 1722
Vice (tree), I7I
Vicente, Antonio, 222
Viceroy of New Spain, 825, 885
Viceroy of Peru, 1229, 2022, 2025,
2041
Vicilipan (Tlaxcala), 397
Viciliuitl (Aztec prince), 400, 402
Vicisilin (hummingbird), 490
Vicos (Peru), 1869
Vicoypasco, 1320; Vico y Pasco?
Victor, Victoria, v. Vit-
Victorians, 881
Vicufia, 36, 1184, 1339, 1438, 1483,
1485, 1487, 1523, 1632, 1635,

1420,

INDEX

1644, 1647, 1721, 1740, 1760,
1764, 1975
Vides, Diego de, 142f.
Viduefio (grape), 1356, 1387, 1782;
also Viduno
Viejo, El (Nicaragua), 665, 717, 721,
724ff., 758,
Viera, Angaraes de la, 1854
Vijia (vigia V) (lookout), 332
Vilca (tree), 1714, 1720
Vilcabamba, 1424, 1482, 1549, 1604f.,
1904, 2042, 2059
Vilcaconga, 1489; Vilca?
Vilcaparo, 1638, 1642
Vilcas, 1423, 1431, 1435f., 1476, 1549,
1857, 2042; Bil- 1310; Chil-
cas?
, Hanan, Hurin, 1857
Rio de, 1478; also Rio de Pam-
pas
Vili Valley, 1900
Villa (Ayacucho), 1903, 1913
Rica (Chile), 760, 1960, 10966ff.,
1981, 1995, 2009; v. Villarica
Villa = town; but in 479 Querétaro is
called both villa and pueblo
(village) ; cf. 822, 1695, 1913
Villa Diego, Capt., 1424
Villacastin, 1590
Villacuri (also -cori, V), 1315, 1352,
1456, 1610
Villafuerte, Juan Rodriguez de, 500
Village = pueblo
Villagra, Francisco de, 1980,
2010
Villahuma (High Priest), 1592; Villa-
cumu, Villaoma, 1518
Villalobos, Marcelo de, 105, 123
Villalta de San Ildefonso (Oaxaca),
511, 813, 850
Villamayor, Marqués de,
499, 502, 524, 557
Villamor, Condes de, 1483
Villandrando, Juan de, 126, 1214
Villanueva de los Infantes (Angol),
1958
Villapalma, Juan de, 1672
Villar, El (Charcas), 1746, 1906
, El, de Don Pardo, 1900
San Juan al, 1679
Conde del, 1305, 1455
Villareal, Joannes de, 1611

1904,

440, 401,

WVallarica’ ) (Chile), v. Villa. Rica;
(Paraguay), 39, 1807, 181of.,
IQII

Villaroel, 1649
Villasinda, Capt., 276
Villegas, Juan de, 277
Villena, Ensign, 1053
Villusa, 1870

Viloca, 1762

859
Vilque (Angol), 1959; (Cabana y
Cabanilla), 1610; ,(Paucar-

colla), 1616, 1883
Vinac (Indian word), 70
Vinaca, 1430; Vinaque, 1475
Vineyards, 1171, 1348, 1387, 1607, 1700,
LOLOL, 1923; 19327., 1036% “va
Wine
income, I4II
Vintage, 1355f., 1417
Vipers, 254, 1791; v. Snakes
Viraco, 1861
Viracocha (divinity), 1553, 1600
, Inca, 1479, 1503, 1505, 1508, 1531,
1552ff., 1587, 1609
Viracochapuncu, 1531
Virginia, 311
Virgins, House of the (Cuzco), 1408,
1509, 1520ff.; (Huanuco),
1565; (Tomebamba), 1568;
(Tumbes), 1575
Viroteros (Indians), 175
Viscas (-ca V), San Juan de, 1325
Visisa, 1890
Visitador (Inspector), 444
Visitas (pastoral districts), 350
Vispatlan, 525
Vitacucho (Fla.), 313
Vitangue, 319
Viticos, 1424, 1426, 1478
Vitoncra (Bi- V), 1851
Vitoparischusa, 1870
Vitor, 1315; Victor, 1390, 1864, 2043
, Rio de (Victor V), 1387, 1389
Valley (Victor V), 1388
Vitoria (Colombia), 1050
, San Francisco de la (Vilca-
bamba) (Vict- V), 1482
Vitzilipuztli, 396, 417f.; Vizi-, 86
Vivehama, Rio de, 1680
Vivero, Rodrigo de, 542
Vizcachas (visc- V) (animals), 1485,
1632, 1644, 1647, 1741
4) bashers; VASc=) 60730
Vizcaya (Visc- V), Nueva, 521, 535ff.,
559, 820, 833, 830, 856f.
Voeda, Francisco de, 1670
Vola, 1127
, Rio de, 1117
Volador, mallan, 1047
Volcanoes, 602, 605, 628, 647, 650ff.,
666, 738, 747f., 758ff., 789,
971, 1082, 1097, I100, 1183,
1387ff., 1304f., 1402ff., 1405ff.,
1764, 1786, 1967
Voroa, 1959, 1962, 1965f., 1903
Vultures, 1415; v. Buzzards, Condors

W

Wages, 1450, 1454f., 1636, 1653: v.
Prices, Salaries
Walnut, 484, 1714f.

860 INDEX

War clubs, v. Macanas

Warden, v. Castellano

War paint, 1464

Warrant = cédula, e.g., 1695

Warrior, 1802

Water supply, 1175, 1704

Water-jar makers, 1934

Watermelons, 1818

Waters, Our Lady of Holy, 109

Wax, 1241, 1690, 1734ff., 1810, 1812,
1819, 2013, 2018

Weapons, v. Indian

Weighmaster, 2048, 2058

Weights and measures, 1703, 1706

Wells, 1408, 1415, 1831; v. Jaguey,
Puquio

Welzers, v. Vélsares

Whales, 1420, 1753ff.

Wheat, 387, 625, 778, 1390, 1411, 1417f.,
1932, 1936, 1971, 20177.

White Indians, 1190, 1976

White Lily Valley, 1483

Wicks, 1171, 1767

Widgeons, 1975

Willows, 1458, 1478, 1714, 1716

Wine, -183f.,..644)' 707, 1107h, 1200;
1292, 1301, 1333, 1348ff., 1356,
1360, 1385f., 1388, 1409, I4II,
1414f., 1417, 1432, 1430, 1446,
1638, 1642, 1645f., 1665, 1681,
1683f., 1715, 17771., 1798, 1803,
1819, 1823, 1828, 1923, 1932,
1936, 1957 '

, wheat and wax stipend, 2013

Wineries, 1387

Witchcraft, 1722

Wizards, 422, 425, 1400, 1404, 1518

Woodpeckers, 587, 1021

Woods, I5II, 1796

Wool, woolens, 474, 981, 1184, 1370,
1523, 1609, 1616, 1634, I7II

Woolen mills, 376, 381, 384f., 482, 490,
10907, 1108, III0, 1164, 1168,
1194; (0338; 1365t.,) 11368t.
1374, 1378, 1934, 1940, 1975,
2018, 2048, 2058.

X

X-, v. J-

Xacal (Virginia), 311
Xacarés (Indians), 214
Xacatlan (Ja- V), 525
Xacona, 503, 814, 853;
Xalataco, 477
Xaltepeque, 509
Xamanzal, 342
Xaqueses, 1812
Xaqueximatlan, 525
Xaraquemada, Juan, 2020
Xaso, 503, 854; today Jaso
Xelhua, 307

Xerxes, 1543

today, Jacona

Xicalancatlh, 397

Xicalango, 339, 341;
Boca del Rio

Xicaque Indians, 687

Xicayan, 511, 850; also Jicayan

Xicomallan, 410

Xicoque, 687

Ximénez, Diego, 1668

Ximénez de Cisneros, Francisco, 105

Ximénez de Quesada, Gonzalo, 938,
942, 953, 955

Ximénez Vera, Bartolomé, 1669

Xiues, 341

Xivillemoc, 399

Xochimilco (Suchi- V), 305, 465f.,
822, 846

Xochimilcos (Suchi-V), 305, 431

Xochipala, v. Such ipala

Xolotitlan, 480; Jocotitlan?

Xonotla, 392, 849; today Jonutla

Xuala, 315

Xuchiquautla, 465, 846; today Xochi-
cuauhtla

Xurutinas (Indians), 214

-nco, 397; today,

Xustlaguaca, 511, 851; Justlahuaca
Xuxtla, 511; Tuxtla?
Ne

Yacarete, 1703

Yacha Huaci, 1504

Yachas, 1840

Yacolla (Inca cape), 1523

Yagualulcos, 511, 850; today Yahua-
lulco or Ahualulco

Yaguana, 803

Yaguaron, 1800

Yagulgulpa, 410; Tlauelilpa?

orgy oe V), 390, 465, 460,
4

Yahuar Cocha, 1577

Yahuar (Yag- V) Huacac Jnca, 1508,
1550ff.; Yaguarguacac, 1470,
1587

Yahuarpampa (Yug- V), 1553

Yamamates, 1840

Yamicies (Indians), 1025

Yamon, 1849

Yams, I014

Yanacacha Chuare, 1882

Yanaconas (service Indians), 1066,
TLOT, 1302,'1353, LALAt., 1420;
1639, 1649, 1683, 1706, 1700,
es 1935, 2005; (La Plata),
1801 ; (Tomina), 1892

Yanacota, 1879

Yanaguara, 1485, 1487, 1544

Yanaguaras, 1873; Quisares?

Yanamanche, 1869

Yanaoca, 1868

Yanas, 1838

Yanguitlan, 511, 851; Yanhuitlan

INDEX

Yanqui, 1392
Collaguas, 1859
Yanta, 1849
Yao (bee), 1735
Yaocata, 1869
Yapar6, 1691
Yaque, Rio (Santo Domingo), 108
Yaquia, 1372
Yarabaya, 1864; Yarabamba?
Yarn, 2019
Yaros, 1327, 1840; Yares?
Yaruqui (-roq- V), 1144
Yastato, 1819
Yataca, 1870
Yauri, 1612; -re, 1868
Yauyos, 1305, 1307; -yus, 1321, 1334,
1338, 1340, 1556, 1844, 2041
Mitimas (-yus V), 1844
Yaxcaba (Yscaba V), 356
Yaxchilan, v. Manché
Yayanta (Ayayanta?), 1714
Yaye, 1884
Ybarra, San Miguel de, 1104, 1900;
also Ibarra
, Diego de, 543
Licentiate, 1669
Ycaguates (Indians), 1086
Ychma, 1464, 1466
Yepes, Rio, 390
Yerba de Santa Maria, 1725
Yerba santa (maté), 1807f.
Yetelzeh, 341
Yeteque, 410; Yautepec? Yetec?
Yextaxemitexe, 410
Yguala, 465, 846; Iguala
Yeualapa, 511, 850
Yinga Yupangui, 1557
Yilapa, 1516
Yilucan, 416
Yndehé, 820; Indé
Yovay, Caycay, 1870
Yparo, 1867
Yputt, 1812
Ysacalco, 525
Ysatlan, 855; Isatlan
Yscaba, 356
Ysucar, 391, 848, 862; Iztcar
Ytecaquipan, 410; Tezoquipa?
Ytolpan, 410; Tulpan?

Ytunos, 996

Wueatan,) 3370. 433, St2, 831, 837f.,
866, 874

Yucay, 1426, 1430, 1554, 1605, 1607,
1871, 2042

, Rio de, 1526, 1537, 1607
Yucca, 99, 119, 1799; v. Mandioc
Yumbos, Los, 1100, I105, 1144, 1571,
2045
Yuminas, 1864
Yungas, 1629, 1682
de Pere, 1885
Yungay, 1328, 1377

861

Yupangui, Inca, 1558, 156o0ff., 1587,
IQQI1; -gue, 1484; Xupangue,
1476; v. Lloque, Mango Ca-
pac, Paullu, Tupac

Yupangui the Elder, 1591

Yuquiliguala, 1773

Yuracarées (Indians), 1688

Yuralmaycha, 1724

Yuro (bird), 1738

Yuscaran (Guasucaran V), 705, 816

Yutalco, 410

Yuti, 1800; Yervales Yuti?

Yutos (partridges), 1738

Yxcateopa, 465, 846; Ixcateopan

Yxtepexi, 511, 851; Yztepexic, 518;

Ixtepeji

Yxtlavaca, 479; Ixtlahuaca

Yzaes, 340

Yzcla, 410

Z

Zaa sugar mill, 1161

Zabila (Sa- V) (aloes), 393

Zacamile (Sa- V) (indigo), 674

Zacatayamon, 1162

Zacate (Sa- V) (fodder), 435, 676

Zacatecas (Sa- V), 527, 810, 833, 839

Zacatecoluca (Sa- V), 642, 659, 661,
759

Zacatepeque, 474; San Pedro Sacate-
pequez?

Zacatlan (Sa- V), 391, 848; Sacatelan,

525
Zacatula, 500, 502f., 509; Sa-, 814, 853
Zacualpa (Saqu- V), 464, 477, 482,

810, 845, 862
Zafara, 58
Zaguarzongo: Yaguasongo, _‘I100,

1127f., 1138, 1196, 2030, 2037;
Yaguarsongo, 1143, 1145;
Yaguasonco, 1569

Zaguato, 566

ZLalcan arene

Zambaigos, 1706’

Zambeza (-bisa V), 1571; Sambisa,

1144
Zamora (Ecuador); (1136; 1000;
(Mexico), 814; (Venezuela),
281; Sa-, 809
LO te V), Fray Francisco,
3

Zancudos (mosquitos), 1117, 1386

Zangaro, 1856, 2042

Zangoyqui, 1571

Zapallo (Sa- V) (pumpkin), 1344,
1355, 1384, 1726

Zaparas (Sa- V) (Indians), 968

Zapata, Fray Juan, 443, 670, 880

Zapoapa (Sa- V), 716

Zapote, v. Sa-

Zapotecas, 500, 517

, Sierra de los, 514
Zapotitlan, 70; Sa-, 632, 832

862

Zapotlan, 503; Sa-, 854
Zaragoza (Colombia), 925, 939, o4Bt

1003, Io14ff., 1o025ff., 1047,
1806

Zarate of Palencia, 737

Zarbi, Rio, 973

Zaruma, San Antonio. de, 1127, 1175,
1900; Sa-, 1132, 1143, 2037;
cf. Saroma

Zarzuelas (teal), 1020

Zavalla (Sabaya V), 1887

Zebu, 821, 834, 867, 883; Zebut, 771,
780; Zibut, 772; Sibu, 861
Zeinda, 799
Zempoala, 465; Cem-, 846
, Rio de, 371
Zendales (Chiapas), 582; Sen-, 576;
also Tzendales
Zenu, Rio, 994
Zepita: Ce-, 1312; Se-, 1540, 1619
Zilacauyapa, 391; Silacayoapan

INDEX

Zimatlan: Ci-, 511, 851;
Zimba, Rio, 1085
Zimbues, 1688
Zinzontla, 488
Zion, Mount, 466
Zitlaltepec (Sitlaltepeque V), 465, 846
Zones, 9
Zopilote, 1020, 1125; v. Buzzard, Vul-
ture
Zoques, 574, 576, 582
Zorita (So- V), Juan Pérez de, 1778,
1780
Zoritor, 1162; Zorritos?
Zosimus, 67
Zozocolco, 392
Zulia (Su- V), Rio de, 281, 966, 972
Sierra de, 958
Zumpango, 302, 465, 476, 846, 849
Zuni, 565
Zithiga, Diego Lopez de, 604
,; Domingo de, III

Si-, 506

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